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So can anybody help with this disaster?
Severely cropped to not nuke the servers.
The more distant classic sunset was fine, but then we got an amazing and huge red sun just before it set. The whole ball was the colour of the edge or the stripe in this shambles of a shot.
Other than turn off AI what else should I do?
I have to say my old Mate 40 RS Porsche Edition would have got the shot no problem. Very disappointed in my new S22 Ultra.
This is one of those possibly never see again chances, gutted.
This is due to Infra Red blooming. The sensors are very sensitive to IR, so there is an IR blocking filter in the system. Unfortunately, this does not block 100% of the IR on bright objects like the Sun. You can see this effect by taking a shot of a hot electric stove burner with the camera; you don't even have to take a picture to see the effect just look at the screen. I've attached a shot here, the stove was not a bright pink to the eye, that is due to IR leaking through the filter. Because IR has a longer wavelength than Red, the light is focused by the lens farther away, and it can cause a bloom around the Sun like that. Other cameras have the same problem, and it depends on the strength of the IR filter. There are disadvantages to making the IR filter stronger like color distortion in the other colors so it is always a compromise. There isn't much that can be done about it.
edit - I have to add that taking a picture of the low Sun like that is just about the worst case and you probably won't notice it anywhere else. When the Sun is low and most of the light is being blocked so you can actually stand to look at it (still not good to stare), almost all of the IR light is still getting through, and so the IR component is a lot more than usual. You can even get the same effect on a pro DSLR.
brachiopod said:
This is due to Infra Red blooming. The sensors are very sensitive to IR, so there is an IR blocking filter in the system. Unfortunately, this does not block 100% of the IR on bright objects like the Sun. You can see this effect by taking a shot of a hot electric stove burner with the camera; you don't even have to take a picture to see the effect just look at the screen. I've attached a shot here, the stove was not a bright pink to the eye, that is due to IR leaking through the filter. Because IR has a longer wavelength than Red, the light is focused by the lens farther away, and it can cause a bloom around the Sun like that. Other cameras have the same problem, and it depends on the strength of the IR filter. There are disadvantages to making the IR filter stronger like color distortion in the other colors so it is always a compromise. There isn't much that can be done about it.
edit - I have to add that taking a picture of the low Sun like that is just about the worst case and you probably won't notice it anywhere else. When the Sun is low and most of the light is being blocked so you can actually stand to look at it (still not good to stare), almost all of the IR light is still getting through, and so the IR component is a lot more than usual. You can even get the same effect on a pro DSLR.
View attachment 5573961
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Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
stewarta13wsb said:
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably not, since it is an optical effect. You might be able to 'shop it out. On a pro camera, you can use a very small aperture which brings the IR light more into focus, but that's not an option on the phone which has a fixed aperture. I've got a very similar shot from my old Note 20 U that had the same problem. Below is a cropped in shot from an Olympus mirrorless camera that shows the same Red ring thing, just to a smaller degree. It isn't helping that the "100x" zoom works by cropping the 10X image, it amplifies small defects like that.
stewarta13wsb said:
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only a stronger UV/IR cut filter would help.
I shoot IR/UV and full spectrum with a DSLR and RAW video cameras... Its a balance between visible light and correct look with most sensors.
Unless you use (physical) filters, nothing you can really do. Most cameras are very sensitive to IR light, and blocking IR/near IR completely wipes out a lot of deep reds and throws off colors as well. Sensors do not see at all like our eyes do.
Channel swapped 590nm IR shot attached.
Related
Hey,
I noticed that when a light shining directly into the lens and the brightness is set to low in camera i got a weird glow, like if there was patches / scratches on the lens. But there isn't. Everything is fine on the surface.
now does anyone else face something like that? What could it be? Should I get a replacement?
Look at the examples below. I'd appreciate any suggestions, help or confirmation if someone is having the same issue.
I know it looks like lens flare. But 1cm to the right or left and its gone.
Heres the glowy pictures:
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And heres how it seems to be normal, with "normal" blur / flare
Please tell me what you think
This is not just a light. This is like laser light which every optical mouse equipped with and it has light reflector in there too so it is normal to have this effect in low light condition. Try to take pic of it in normal day light condition.
pk-air said:
This is not just a light. This is like laser light which every optical mouse equipped with and it has light reflector in there too so it is normal to have this effect in low light condition. Try to take pic of it in normal day light condition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I know I just had nothing else to demonstrate.
And as you can see even with the laser the effect is only in the upper left corner of the picture. It's like a patch
When not forcing the artifact with putting the light 8ns the top left corner its barely visible in any situation. But I know it's there and it's bugging me a lot.
Here's an example with a light (led) in my room.
First is upper left second is upper middle
Nilleiz said:
Yes I know I just had nothing else to demonstrate.
And as you can see even with the laser the effect is only in the upper left corner of the picture. It's like a patch
Here's an example with a light (led) in my room.
First is upper left second is upper middle
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird. Did you zoom in? what are your camera settings? is it auto mode or manual mode? Any adjustments? is it 8mpx pic (stock settings) or 23 or?
Here are my examples. Photo taken with 23pmx resolution at different angels. As you can see one photo is fine and second one has similar to what you are having. If you are taking photo of the light bulb that close you still get the effect of super nova lightning lol Also make sure your camera glass isn't full of your finger prints or dirty. Because if your camera lens receiving dirty lightning it might reflect that too
pk-air said:
Weird. Did you zoom in? what are your camera settings? is it auto mode or manual mode? Any adjustments? is it 8mpx pic (stock settings) or 23 or?
Here are my examples. Photo taken with 23pmx resolution at different angels. As you can see one photo is fine and second one has similar to what you are having. If you are taking photo of the light bulb that close you still get the effect of super nova lightning lol Also make sure your camera glass isn't full of your finger prints or dirty. Because if your camera lens receiving dirty lightning it might reflect that too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These were cropped pictures of a full image.
The first one Is taken like in the first exams here with the light source in the marked area, you see this rays.
The second one is taken like in the second example here with the light source in the middle. (any other position apart from top left looks fine.
Settings are 23mp superior mode brightness to low (so it's visible better ) it's actually always visible apart from 16:9 aspect ratio because it cuts some centimetres from the top and the bottom of the 4:3 image.
It's forced like that
Nilleiz said:
These were cropped pictures of a full image.
The first one Is taken like in the first exams here with the light source in the marked area, you see this rays.
The second one is taken like in the second example here with the light source in the middle. (any other position apart from top left looks fine.
Settings are 23mp superior mode brightness to low (so it's visible better ) it's actually always visible apart from 16:9 aspect ratio because it cuts some centimetres from the top and the bottom of the 4:3 image.
It's forced like that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So looks like you have unlocked/rooted device and you have manual control in superior mode. Are you using chinmoy32 modified camera app? I am on stock Nougat (no root, not unlocked)
pk-air said:
So looks like you have unlocked/rooted device and you have manual control in superior mode. Are you using chinmoy32 modified camera app? I am on stock Nougat (no root, not unlocked)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These are just the sliders for brightness and colour as your can toggle over settings in stock camera.
Unlocked and rooted. Drm fix applied. So that's not the problem.
As I marked in the first picture the rays only appear in that area. It's not software related.
Would you try to place a light near that area I marked and see if you get something similar?
Nilleiz said:
These are just the sliders for brightness and colour as your can toggle over settings in stock camera.
Unlocked and rooted. Drm fix applied. So that's not the problem.
As I marked in the first picture the rays only appear in that area. It's not software related.
Would you try to place a light near that area I marked and see if you get something similar?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont have those settings. I've read somewhere that xz camera makes the corners of the pics blur.
pk-air said:
I dont have those settings. I've read somewhere that xz camera makes the corners of the pics blur.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well that's not at all in that area. but thank you for your help
Nilleiz said:
Well that's not at all in that area. but thank you for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it is the mouse. I dont have the light bulb like yours at work. When I get home I will see if it is the same. But I'd say it is normal
pk-air said:
Well it is the mouse. I dont have the light bulb like yours at work. When I get home I will see if it is the same. But I'd say it is normal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your support
If you don't mind, try to get it right next to the front / back camera switch in camera app (like in the red square I drew on that one example picture.
Thanks again
Say "cheese", then rate this thread to express how photos taken with the Xiaomi Mi Note 10 Lite come out. A higher rating indicates that photos offer rich color (without over-saturating), sharp detail (with all subjects in-focus), and appropriate exposure (with even lighting).
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Sometimes the Autofocus doesn´t work. The Picture isn´t sharp at all. It´s a bug? Did anyone encounter the same problem?
Tikil said:
Sometimes the Autofocus doesn´t work. The Picture isn´t sharp at all. It´s a bug? Did anyone encounter the same problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have the same problem. It's like there's always a filter on the photos
Mi Note 10 Lite Astrophotography photo+raw samples
Hello guys, as a photography and astronomy enthusiast, i want to share my amasing experiences with my new Mi Note 10 Lite. Here is the link to most of my original samples.
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How i made these photos:
Most photos have been done with the stock camera in a non-light polluted remote place.
I chose the standard quality for the photos, as "high quality" doesn't increase quality that much, but it takes considerably more space on the phone.
I mostly used ISO6400. (ISO6400 is a bit too noisy, because denoising filter is removing detail in the stars. i would suggest a value between 3200 and 5000, making the photos a bit dimmer)
A exposure time of 30s, and focus set to infinity is mandatory for this kind of photos.
Use a very stable support, use a good tripod on a solid base. I used a car as a support (i placed the phone face down on the roof of the car), but a car is not stable enough because we leaned on it, making the car rock back and forth, and that minor rocking made a lot of photos blurry.[You can't do 30s exposure photos hand-held lol. (anything above 1/4s exposure is blurry)]
Use a bluetooth shutter button (or wireless bluetooth mouse/keyboard, or something else),or use wired headphones with button (carefully, so that you don't pull the phone), or use a timer (5 seconds should be sufficient). [pressing the shutter button, or volume button really shakes up the phone, resulting in a blurry image]
Eliminate any stray light sources (car lights, other phone's light, other lights) because any light that can shine directly or indirectly on the lens of the camera, does affect the final image a lot.
Raw or not raw:
I can say that in the stock camera the raw toggle is done poorly, as it does not save a jpg when shooting raw.
It's easier to edit a non raw photo, and with a bit of talent, excellent photos can be done with non raw (with editing, of course).
I use snapseed to edit the non raw photos on my phone, as it's great, and easy to use.
I use photoshop to edit the raw photos, the whole process takes a lot of time, luma and chroma denoising, color grading, saturation, temperature, are all a nightmare and a half.
Yes, you can get better looking photos with better quality if you use raw, but only if you know what are you doing. (usually raw astronomy photos require lots of tweaking that auto modes don't cover)
I would suggest everybody to not use raw, use the 64mp mode, way less hassle, better experience, great detail.
Google camera astrophotography experience:
I've not tried many google camera ports on this phone (PixelCam_Plus_V2.0, and PX Mod v4.0), but i've had problems with both. (when it comes to astrophotography)
PixelCam does save them after a while, but it takes an unknown amount of time, the results are ok, but i'd like to see what i captured as soon as possible, and it doesn't want to turn on astrophotography mode sometimes.
PX Mod doesn't save astrophotography photos unfortunately.
If someone knows a decent astrophotography gcam (with more than 30s of exposure), please write a reply.
Comparison with Oneplus 5
The oneplus 5 had basically the same settings, but it mostly used ISO3200, i don't know which photos are done with what iso, but assume they all were done with 3200.
Even at ISO3200, the oneplus has lots more noise, but it captures the natural yellow light of the milky way.
I think the Mi Note 10 Lite does a better job at everything, except yellow color.
You can compare side by side the shots, as they were done roughly in the same place.
Tell me your experience.
JoraForever said:
Hello guys, as a photography and astronomy enthusiast, i want to share my amasing experiences with my new Mi Note 10 Lite. Here is the link to most of my original samples.
Tell me your experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DUDE!! Your work is super amazing and I'm quite impressed! Love all of them!
I've noticed that my brightness keeps changing for no reason. It would randomly increase for a second and then go back. And it sometimes keeps doing that like it is caught in a loop.
Has anyone else noticed anything similar?
If only happen in certain place, check if there are sources of IR or UV in the environment, like a surveillance | remote control | fish tank..., light sensor also sensitive to invisible light.
Also can do a test, in stable light source cover/release light sensor, use some sensor test app, if the reading jump like hell, maybe something error with hardware or system.
And don't use case during test, notch-less phone's light sensor on the very edge of the top glass, most third-party case actually blocked a bit.
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ULTRAJC said:
If only happen in certain place, check if there are sources of IR or UV in the environment, like a surveillance | remote control | fish tank..., light sensor also sensitive to invisible light.
Also can do a test, in stable light source cover/release light sensor, use some sensor test app, if the reding jump like hell, maybe something error with hardware or system.
And don't use case during test, notch-less phone's light sensor on the very edge of the top glass, most third-party case actually blocked a bit.
View attachment 5327539
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Thank you for your suggestions. I've already looked into the sensor data, and did not find any significant errors.
What I did find however, is that the sensor seem to be really sensitive. I found a certain position at my room desk, where the illuminance measured by the sensor fluctuates sporadically even if I turn the phone by 1 degree. I don't know how these sensors work, but it seems to be taking data from the point it is directly facing. In my case, this causes the value to jump between 10 and 30 lux, which is apparently enough to change the brightness level. I am using the preinstalled screen protector, so that might cause some random light refraction.
ULTRAJC said:
If only happen in certain place, check if there are sources of IR or UV in the environment, like a surveillance | remote control | fish tank..., light sensor also sensitive to invisible light.
Also can do a test, in stable light source cover/release light sensor, use some sensor test app, if the reding jump like hell, maybe something error with hardware or system.
And don't use case during test, notch-less phone's light sensor on the very edge of the top glass, most third-party case actually blocked a bit.
View attachment 5327539
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Also, the circle at the back above the flash, is that another light sensor?
Miha512 said:
Also, the circle at the back above the flash, is that another light sensor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you reminded me, that's ambient light sensor too, also affects screen brightness. third party software cannot detect that sensor. but still can do "cover" test look at the screen brightness changes
ULTRAJC said:
Yes, you reminded me, that's ambient light sensor too, also affects screen brightness. third party software cannot detect that sensor. but still can do "cover" test look at the screen brightness changes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure that is also a brightness sensor? Nothing happens when I cover mine. Can you please test on yours?
Your browser is not able to display this video.
ULTRAJC said:
View attachment 5332511
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Thank you so much for your time and effort! I feel kinda stupid for not doing a test like this before... Either way, mine reacts to a flashlight as well, and to dimmer light as well if I cover the front sensor. Thanks again and have a nice day!
ULTRAJC said:
View attachment 5332511
View attachment 5332513
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Also, just one more thing. Do you have any explanation for this - https://photos.app.goo.gl/r4WfrqxKYKGq5np6A
The whole thing is really annoying as it keeps randomly increasing/decreasing the brightness while the ambient light remains the same. It does only seem to happen with illuminance levels between 10 and 30 lux, so I'm not sure if it could be hardware related...
That reading seems glitch to me, if lighting is stable.
Maybe is the hardware…
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ULTRAJC said:
That reading seems glitch to me, if lighting is stable.
Maybe is the hardware…
View attachment 5333233
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It is weird, as it only happens in one room. I've also tried with my girlfriend's Nord, and it jumped between 10 and 80 at a similar spot. Whatever, thanks!
Hey gang,
I would love a developer or anyone in the know to investigate this potential bull**** moon filter that kicks in automatically when you zoom in on the moon. This first came to my attention on the Note 9. Basically it looks like the camera app is detecting the moon phase, then after a bright flash it loads the appropriate phase image.
While zooming in, the light and fuzziness just goes away and you have this clear image and no light, no stars or clouds, just this prefect moon shot. Tonight o tested through a dirty window and I got the same clear photo. I took two and noticed they are different hues between the shots. So.... anyone already know what's up or care to investigate? Maybe there's some moon phases photos in a directory somewhere.
If you need anything from me please hit me up.
Thank you
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I remember reading posts from Samsung users claiming the moon pics from Samsung phones are very much real, unlike the ones from Huawei and other Chinese brands.
I'm not an expert on the matter because I never cared much about this stuff, personally I always thought all brands use some sort of AI for the moon shots.
The moon is super bright, when I focus my DSLR with a zoom lens on the moon I can't see any stars as well. To photograph the moon the camera uses daylight shutter settings.
ryant35 said:
The moon is super bright, when I focus my DSLR with a zoom lens on the moon I can't see any stars as well. To photograph the moon the camera uses daylight shutter settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh ****, on a DSLR too huh? Maybe this is just how it works then. Thank you
JAH0707 said:
Oh ****, on a DSLR too huh? Maybe this is just how it works then. Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At night, the moon is the brightest object in the sky. The human eye can compensate for the difference which allows us to see stars and moon at the same time. Most DSLR cameras and all phone cameras are not sophisticated enough to allow both stars and the moon to be visible. Pretty much every moon shot where you see both the moon and the stars are composite shots. Where the photographer exposed for the moon then exposed for the stars. Then take both shots and overlay one on the other.
There was an article written when the s21u was first released and they compared the s21u moon shots to shots taken using a DSLR of the same time. They found that the s21u moon shots were real and there was no overlay used.
JAH0707 said:
Hey gang,
I would love a developer or anyone in the know to investigate this potential bull**** moon filter that kicks in automatically when you zoom in on the moon. This first came to my attention on the Note 9. Basically it looks like the camera app is detecting the moon phase, then after a bright flash it loads the appropriate phase image.
While zooming in, the light and fuzziness just goes away and you have this clear image and no light, no stars or clouds, just this prefect moon shot. Tonight o tested through a dirty window and I got the same clear photo. I took two and noticed they are different hues between the shots. So.... anyone already know what's up or care to investigate? Maybe there's some moon phases photos in a directory somewhere.
If you need anything from me please hit me up.
Thank you
View attachment 5658259 View attachment 5658261 View attachment 5658263 View attachment 5658265
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Photographing stars with good detail takes about 20-30 seconds. A telephoto pic of the moon takes only a fraction of a second since it's so bright so you won't see much of any star detail in the background.
Funny I just took a couple photos the other day and thought the same, then I saw this post
Huawei fakes it for sure and OP's theory is spot on for Huawei.
Samsung - Well, I didnt expect that from Samsung,
JazonX said:
Huawei fakes it for sure and OP's theory is spot on for Huawei.
Samsung - Well, I didnt expect that from Samsung,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung isn't faking it. Here is a shot I took a few weeks ago. I had to do some Lightroom work.
I've taken enough pictures of the moon to know.
If you really need to go down the rabbit hole, here is the article that confirms Samsung is not faking it unlike Huawei. - https://www.gsmarena.com/myth_debunked_samsungs_100x_zoom_doesnt_fake_moon_photos-news-47487.php
A few months late, but there is a video of someone comparing the S22's telephoto capabilities with those of the Nikon P1000 and he did confirm that the S22 applies a filter to the moon with the 30x zoom. It's pretty obvious once you see the difference side by side. If you watch the video you'll see it relatively clearly. (Just look for S22 vs P1000 on YouTube, creator is named Versus, skip to 5 minutes)
The best method to test it out for yourself is to take a photo of the moon through some treebranches. Some people tried this and got the filter to only partially cover the moon this way. 2 of the pictures posted here also have this smooth artificial look, but it seems like the AI got the colors right.
Lunar Ellipse take 1.5 months ago in Tokyo
Took this last night and did a remaster on it.. noticed a square like the moon was pasted on top of the black background... looks faked to me... 
The original picture and then remastered.
Quite possibly the reason it's "debunked" is because people that are trying to debunk it are taking pictures not pointing in the direction of the moon.. the phone does have sensors in it which let it know what direction it's facing, where its looking and so on.. so if you're taking pictures of a ping pong ball in your house... the phone knows you aren't pointing it in the actual direction of the moon..
This is interesting, this would be an awesome conspiracy. It wouldn't be too hard to debunk: find a small circular object that would match the size of the moon and brightness (use an led or a pen light), use full zoom mode, aim the phone exactly where the moon should be.
Shot some days ago with my 22U/Exynos (edited with Lightroom on Android)
Just stepped out of the door, seen the moon, seen where the plane was flying, and took my chance
phatmanxxl, could probably spoof the phones sensors to trick it into thinking it's looking at the moon.. not sure what sensors would need to be spoofed but I'm guessing gps would be one of them.
Have had a couple of bright daylight shots come out like garbage, low detail low quality smudged detail. so just happened to look in settings and no HDR/+. Maybe I'm getting it mixed up with my previous pixels but could have sworn there were HDR settings in Google camera on the 6a?
Strange. Reddit says...
Google is even more cryptic.
Raw mode be your next and better option. Those will require post processing which is done using a photo app that has an adjustable contrast curve option.
Thanks! Raw wouldn't have helped this shot. looks like needed the stacking that HDR provides. making sure I'm not crazy, the option was there before, no? It's definitely still kicking in in some cases but seems somehow auto / Left up to googles algorithms. Unfortunately that leaves us with a lot of garbage shots
Compared to a Canon pro cam all smartphone cams are a pain to use and limited especially for setup options and speed. I lose a lot of shots because that. I never liked HDR's; a properly exposed shot doesn't need it. Raws give you at least 2 full f-stop exposure and WB correction.
No option to shoot multiple burst exposures at different exposure settings either on smartphones.
Even on my Samsung N10+ the HDR setting when toggled on will decide for you if it will be used. That can and does screw up shots when on... sometimes. No real control
Perhaps Google will update that missing feature soon. Rather sloppy of them. Not near as inept as their lame idea implement forced scoped storage though.
That's a bomb I'm still running Pie and 10 to evade that terror.
The issue is these tiny sensors. The photo stacking/ computational photography helps exponentially. When it doesn't kick in, it can be very bad. You're right RAW can definitely help some but there's only so much it can do. Here's two shots, one when the computational kicked in and the other apparently not. These were taken on the fly (my gf and her kid, not random people), so obviously not great composition just an example of what I mean.
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Not available for pixel 4a and above. It is default ON.
damian5000 said:
The issue is these tiny sensors. The photo stacking/ computational photography helps exponentially. When it doesn't kick in, it can be very bad. You're right RAW can definitely help some but there's only so much it can do. Here's two shots, one when the computational kicked in and the other apparently not. These were taken on the fly (my gf and her kid, not random people), so obviously not great composition just an example of what I mean.
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That's not much difference.
On a raw file (or maybe even a jpeg) you could do that and better using an adjustable contrast curve with settable adjustment points. Takes a bit of practice and a color calibrated monitor.
Wow man, the difference is massive. Look again at the detail in all areas. Detail completely smudged out in the faces, the animal, the plants.
damian5000 said:
Wow man, the difference is massive. Look again at the detail in all areas. Detail completely smudged out in the faces, the animal, the plants.
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Yeah just saw that. Not sure what the cause is though. The face is messed up. I suspect it's the jpeg processing algorithm.
It's also the animal, the plant life to the right can be seen easily. This is what I'm talking about in regards to the photo stacking, what enables these tiny sensors to get decent IQ.
But also, looking at the exif, the bad shot is at 1/7200 ISO 700, that's insanely dim for these little sensors, I'm assuming the digitally brightened. I'm GUESSING I may have been moving (or they were moving) and Google algorithm decides to snap a "sport" shot rather than have something completely unusable? In the case, if so, also no time for stacking in a "sport" shot. Just a guess.
The other 1/400 ISO 45, though I'm not sure how they calculate the latter with stacking/HDR. Whether it's an average of all shots or what.
damian5000 said:
It's also the animal, the plant life to the right can be seen easily. This is what I'm talking about in regards to the photo stacking, what enables these tiny sensors to get decent IQ.
But also, looking at the exif, the bad shot is at 1/7200 ISO 700, that's insanely dim for these little sensors, I'm assuming the digitally brightened. I'm GUESSING I may have been moving (or they were moving) and Google algorithm decides to snap a "sport" shot rather than have something completely unusable? In the case, if so, also no time for stacking in a "sport" shot. Just a guess.
The other 1/400 ISO 45, though I'm not sure how they calculate the latter with stacking/HDR. Whether it's an average of all shots or what.
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The cam sensor temperature can also increase the noise floor level. With the lense and sensor size as small as they are it's a wonder they can do this good. The narrow depth of focus doesn't help things either.
Cam shake may also play a role as well; the lighter the cam the less stable the shooting platform. Smartphones have no handholds. Not near as easy to shoot with compared to a pro cam and lense that weighs 5 pounds. The larger lens are easier to shoot because of the added weight.
Smartphone cams are convenient but damn I lose a lot of keepers because of them in shutter lag alone.