Database Info

Do you use ambient mode on your GS2 watch?

Do you use ambient mode on your GS2 watch?
AFAIK always on mode can cause unrecoverable damage to AMOLED pixels

kornelius1982 said:
AFAIK always on mode can cause unrecoverable damage to AMOLED pixels
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a source for this? I don't think that is true.

GeorgeP said:
Do you have a source for this? I don't think that is true.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source is my personal experience. I saw note 4 in Samsung showroom with actual burned-in pixels on screen.
You can google and see many similar issues.

kornelius1982 said:
Source is my personal experience. I saw note 4 in Samsung showroom with actual burned-in pixels on screen.
You can google and see many similar issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why you don't use yourself as a source lol. Unlike the Note 4 and other Amoled devices, the Gear S2 is designed to slightly shift/redraw the pixels every minute when using ambient mode. This prevents the burn-in you mention.

kornelius1982 said:
Do you use ambient mode on your GS2 watch?
AFAIK always on mode can cause unrecoverable damage to AMOLED pixels
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This isn't an issue with the S2.
If you notice while your watch is in ambient mode, the watch face isn't always centered. It moves around slightly every minute or so. You'll really notice this on watchfaces that have intricate ambient modes. Samsung does this to make sure it doesn't "burn in". I see it on the CWF Aquarius, and Pavilion by Liongate.
Rob

As others have said, burn in isn't an issue. I only use it when the watch face has a very minimal ambient mode. If it has too much going on, I turn it off since it is too hard on the battery.

Burn in still happen even with pixel shift, which is very common on plasma TV and oled, just it need a very long time before it become quite obvious, quite sure most of us will get a new watch before that.

sefrcoko said:
That's why you don't use yourself as a source lol. Unlike the Note 4 and other Amoled devices, the Gear S2 is designed to slightly shift/redraw the pixels every minute when using ambient mode. This prevents the burn-in you mention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you`ve heard there are such things like third party watchfaces with their own, more complex ambient mode theme, not just stock stupid two hands.
I know, Samsung made simple, slightly shifting two hands, but even stock WF-s have ambient mode with constantly active pixels in the center.
See pics.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

kornelius1982 said:
I hope you`ve heard there are such things like third party watchfaces with their own, more complex ambient mode theme, not just stock stupid two hands.
I know, Samsung made simple, slightly shifting two hands, but even stock WF-s have ambient mode with constantly active pixels in the center.
See pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pictures are static and wouldn't show pixel shifts so that doesn't mean much... More complex ambient mode face designs doesn't necessarily mean they wouldn't shift either if that function is applied system-wide at the tizen OS level. You also mistakenly assumed that only the hands shift...in reality the entire watch face shifts. One way or another, a documented source is more reliable than speculation or comparing to totally different devices like the Note 4.

kornelius1982 said:
I hope you`ve heard there are such things like third party watchfaces with their own, more complex ambient mode theme, not just stock stupid two hands.
I know, Samsung made simple, slightly shifting two hands, but even stock WF-s have ambient mode with constantly active pixels in the center.
See pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is why it is recommended to "dither" all block areas of an ambient watch face. It creates a grid of alternating on/off pixels, so if the image moves one pixel in any direction, ALL pixels that were on will turn off.
Otherwise it CAN reduce the lifetime of the individual subpixel color elements of the display (if you use only blue, only those will have shortened lifespan).

Weird "glow" on upper left side on photos

Hey,
I noticed that when a light shining directly into the lens and the brightness is set to low in camera i got a weird glow, like if there was patches / scratches on the lens. But there isn't. Everything is fine on the surface.
now does anyone else face something like that? What could it be? Should I get a replacement?
Look at the examples below. I'd appreciate any suggestions, help or confirmation if someone is having the same issue.
I know it looks like lens flare. But 1cm to the right or left and its gone.
Heres the glowy pictures:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
And heres how it seems to be normal, with "normal" blur / flare
Please tell me what you think

This is not just a light. This is like laser light which every optical mouse equipped with and it has light reflector in there too so it is normal to have this effect in low light condition. Try to take pic of it in normal day light condition.

pk-air said:
This is not just a light. This is like laser light which every optical mouse equipped with and it has light reflector in there too so it is normal to have this effect in low light condition. Try to take pic of it in normal day light condition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I know I just had nothing else to demonstrate.
And as you can see even with the laser the effect is only in the upper left corner of the picture. It's like a patch
When not forcing the artifact with putting the light 8ns the top left corner its barely visible in any situation. But I know it's there and it's bugging me a lot.
Here's an example with a light (led) in my room.
First is upper left second is upper middle

Nilleiz said:
Yes I know I just had nothing else to demonstrate.
And as you can see even with the laser the effect is only in the upper left corner of the picture. It's like a patch
Here's an example with a light (led) in my room.
First is upper left second is upper middle
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird. Did you zoom in? what are your camera settings? is it auto mode or manual mode? Any adjustments? is it 8mpx pic (stock settings) or 23 or?
Here are my examples. Photo taken with 23pmx resolution at different angels. As you can see one photo is fine and second one has similar to what you are having. If you are taking photo of the light bulb that close you still get the effect of super nova lightning lol Also make sure your camera glass isn't full of your finger prints or dirty. Because if your camera lens receiving dirty lightning it might reflect that too

pk-air said:
Weird. Did you zoom in? what are your camera settings? is it auto mode or manual mode? Any adjustments? is it 8mpx pic (stock settings) or 23 or?
Here are my examples. Photo taken with 23pmx resolution at different angels. As you can see one photo is fine and second one has similar to what you are having. If you are taking photo of the light bulb that close you still get the effect of super nova lightning lol Also make sure your camera glass isn't full of your finger prints or dirty. Because if your camera lens receiving dirty lightning it might reflect that too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These were cropped pictures of a full image.
The first one Is taken like in the first exams here with the light source in the marked area, you see this rays.
The second one is taken like in the second example here with the light source in the middle. (any other position apart from top left looks fine.
Settings are 23mp superior mode brightness to low (so it's visible better ) it's actually always visible apart from 16:9 aspect ratio because it cuts some centimetres from the top and the bottom of the 4:3 image.
It's forced like that

Nilleiz said:
These were cropped pictures of a full image.
The first one Is taken like in the first exams here with the light source in the marked area, you see this rays.
The second one is taken like in the second example here with the light source in the middle. (any other position apart from top left looks fine.
Settings are 23mp superior mode brightness to low (so it's visible better ) it's actually always visible apart from 16:9 aspect ratio because it cuts some centimetres from the top and the bottom of the 4:3 image.
It's forced like that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So looks like you have unlocked/rooted device and you have manual control in superior mode. Are you using chinmoy32 modified camera app? I am on stock Nougat (no root, not unlocked)

pk-air said:
So looks like you have unlocked/rooted device and you have manual control in superior mode. Are you using chinmoy32 modified camera app? I am on stock Nougat (no root, not unlocked)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These are just the sliders for brightness and colour as your can toggle over settings in stock camera.
Unlocked and rooted. Drm fix applied. So that's not the problem.
As I marked in the first picture the rays only appear in that area. It's not software related.
Would you try to place a light near that area I marked and see if you get something similar?

Nilleiz said:
These are just the sliders for brightness and colour as your can toggle over settings in stock camera.
Unlocked and rooted. Drm fix applied. So that's not the problem.
As I marked in the first picture the rays only appear in that area. It's not software related.
Would you try to place a light near that area I marked and see if you get something similar?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont have those settings. I've read somewhere that xz camera makes the corners of the pics blur.

pk-air said:
I dont have those settings. I've read somewhere that xz camera makes the corners of the pics blur.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well that's not at all in that area. but thank you for your help

Nilleiz said:
Well that's not at all in that area. but thank you for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it is the mouse. I dont have the light bulb like yours at work. When I get home I will see if it is the same. But I'd say it is normal

pk-air said:
Well it is the mouse. I dont have the light bulb like yours at work. When I get home I will see if it is the same. But I'd say it is normal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your support
If you don't mind, try to get it right next to the front / back camera switch in camera app (like in the red square I drew on that one example picture.
Thanks again

[Tips and Tutorial] How to fix screen burn-in s4 i9505 and others

[Tips and Tutorial] [MIUI Resources Team] How to fix screen burn-in on your Android smartphone
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Hello MIUIers,
Ghost image or screen/image burn-in are names given to a permanent discoloration of your smartphone’s screen caused by irregular pixel usage. The prolonged use of static images can create a permanent shadow or ghost of that image on the screen. This problem is more common than you think, and happens most often on AMOLED screens (although LCD displays aren’t completely free of this bug). Fortunately, there is a solution to restore the image quality of your device.
The screen ghost happens when phosphor compounds that emit light to produce images lose their intensity with prolonged use. Moreover, the irregular use can "burn" an image onto the screen which will be visible all the time. Many apps which are available in the Play Store promise to reduce or even stop the problem. One is the Screen Burn-in Tool.
The concept is simple: a sequence of primary colors is displayed on your device, restoring the "burnt" pixels. In fact, this was the original function of computer screen-savers: one dynamic image that appears when the screen is idle to makes the pixels "exercise" and ensure that the same area of display doesn’t remain constantly illuminated.
font: en.miui.com
Do it at your own risk!
Today I will teach you how to remove the famous burn.
White 80%
Blue 80%:
Green 90%:
Red 100%:
I can not guarantee it will work on other models, my cell phone had very strong shadows on the screen, I realize that almost everything has disappeared ... I'm still running the program, I'll keep you informed on this subject!
Yes, it works, although some report that this does not happen, but their effectiveness depends a lot on the severity of the recording.
If you have shadows from a keyboard or square or both you can remove everything or almost everything, I have the program running for a week at night, I restart the cell phone in the morning and normal use.
Download the Liquid Burn-in Wiper application and use one or four weeks at maximum brightness.
Restart the device once a day, you will have with some luck recovered 80% to 99% of the screen with shade or burn.
Mine at the moment recovered 80%.
Soon I will update the topic with new photos, please wait.
Update add apk:
LCD Burn in Wiper v6.1
OLED Tools v1.3

did you mean to post this here ?

3mel said:
did you mean to post this here ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the post is solely to help people who have burns on the screen and do not know what to do.

an admin must've moved your thread.

Is this the same app as LCD Burn-in Wiper 6.1 by AVAWorks on playstore?
◆Support Device
LCD device
※AMOLED and OLED devices are not supported.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not saying it doesn't work, but an app targeted at AMOLED screens should be your first port of call...

Buff99 said:
Is this the same app as LCD Burn-in Wiper 6.1 by AVAWorks on playstore?
Not saying it doesn't work, but an app targeted at AMOLED screens should be your first port of call...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you even repair the ones that say it is for OLED screen they use the basic color system (rgb) ... then any application that changes the default colors should work normal.
Yes, my friend, I do not know why they said no.
do the test yourself, let it run for a week and you will see the difference.
As soon as I finish the tests I will post new photos.

Doesnt it just burn the rest screen out to even it out?

McXred said:
Doesnt it just burn the rest screen out to even it out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The rest screen is toprevent it from appearing.
You can use it, but it will take much longer, since we do not have a refresh of colors quickly and evenly.
If you want to contribute to the community, you can do some tests. :good:

droidfuture said:
The rest screen is toprevent it from appearing.
You can use it, but it will take much longer, since we do not have a refresh of colors quickly and evenly.
If you want to contribute to the community, you can do some tests. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think what he meant was:
Does it work by burning the not-already burnt out parts to make it appear less burnt out?

I have Galaxy S5 that has pretty noticeable burn-in. When I view completely white image I can see bright white bars at the top and bottom of the screen, top bar even has few icons visible such as warning triangle at the left, i (info) and home at the right so apparently previous owner was using a lot of some kind of web browser at high brightness levels. Center of the screen is slightly dimmer and yellowish so I assume pixels have been burnt more there.
Now I have read about this AMOLED problem and as far as I know you indeed need to burn better pixels causing the ghost image to same level with the rest of the pixels to make ghost image disappear. I planned to try treating the lower ghost bar first and I already created black image same shape as the screen (but a little larger) having white bar at the bottom. I can view this image on my phone, zoom in and align the white bar to match the white bar of the ghost image while the rest of the screen is black. Then turn brightness all the way up and hope that pixels at the bottom of the screen wear out enough and ghost bar disappears. But I guess it'll take very long time. I'll try few hours per day for a week and see if it makes any difference compared to top ghost bar.
It's very difficult to align the image so that it's pixel perfect so there might be a chance that line or two of the brighter screen portion is covered by black area of the image. But I suppose having slightly brighter 1-2 pixel wide line across the screen is better than noticeably brighter large section of the screen.

I have been keeping the better pixels on at full brightness for total of 24 hours now and I can't see any difference. To me it seems that fixing amoled burn-in isn't a quick process but needs tens or hundreds of hours of screen burning to wear better pixels down to same level so that ghost image disappears. And that's pretty logical as burn-in itself doesn't occur overnight but during months of phone usage. Maybe I'll leave it as it is, my eyes have gotten somewhat used to it anyway. Not worth the trouble.

Question Camera trouble

{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
So can anybody help with this disaster?
Severely cropped to not nuke the servers.
The more distant classic sunset was fine, but then we got an amazing and huge red sun just before it set. The whole ball was the colour of the edge or the stripe in this shambles of a shot.
Other than turn off AI what else should I do?
I have to say my old Mate 40 RS Porsche Edition would have got the shot no problem. Very disappointed in my new S22 Ultra.
This is one of those possibly never see again chances, gutted.

This is due to Infra Red blooming. The sensors are very sensitive to IR, so there is an IR blocking filter in the system. Unfortunately, this does not block 100% of the IR on bright objects like the Sun. You can see this effect by taking a shot of a hot electric stove burner with the camera; you don't even have to take a picture to see the effect just look at the screen. I've attached a shot here, the stove was not a bright pink to the eye, that is due to IR leaking through the filter. Because IR has a longer wavelength than Red, the light is focused by the lens farther away, and it can cause a bloom around the Sun like that. Other cameras have the same problem, and it depends on the strength of the IR filter. There are disadvantages to making the IR filter stronger like color distortion in the other colors so it is always a compromise. There isn't much that can be done about it.
edit - I have to add that taking a picture of the low Sun like that is just about the worst case and you probably won't notice it anywhere else. When the Sun is low and most of the light is being blocked so you can actually stand to look at it (still not good to stare), almost all of the IR light is still getting through, and so the IR component is a lot more than usual. You can even get the same effect on a pro DSLR.

brachiopod said:
This is due to Infra Red blooming. The sensors are very sensitive to IR, so there is an IR blocking filter in the system. Unfortunately, this does not block 100% of the IR on bright objects like the Sun. You can see this effect by taking a shot of a hot electric stove burner with the camera; you don't even have to take a picture to see the effect just look at the screen. I've attached a shot here, the stove was not a bright pink to the eye, that is due to IR leaking through the filter. Because IR has a longer wavelength than Red, the light is focused by the lens farther away, and it can cause a bloom around the Sun like that. Other cameras have the same problem, and it depends on the strength of the IR filter. There are disadvantages to making the IR filter stronger like color distortion in the other colors so it is always a compromise. There isn't much that can be done about it.
edit - I have to add that taking a picture of the low Sun like that is just about the worst case and you probably won't notice it anywhere else. When the Sun is low and most of the light is being blocked so you can actually stand to look at it (still not good to stare), almost all of the IR light is still getting through, and so the IR component is a lot more than usual. You can even get the same effect on a pro DSLR.
View attachment 5573961
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?

stewarta13wsb said:
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably not, since it is an optical effect. You might be able to 'shop it out. On a pro camera, you can use a very small aperture which brings the IR light more into focus, but that's not an option on the phone which has a fixed aperture. I've got a very similar shot from my old Note 20 U that had the same problem. Below is a cropped in shot from an Olympus mirrorless camera that shows the same Red ring thing, just to a smaller degree. It isn't helping that the "100x" zoom works by cropping the 10X image, it amplifies small defects like that.

stewarta13wsb said:
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only a stronger UV/IR cut filter would help.
I shoot IR/UV and full spectrum with a DSLR and RAW video cameras... Its a balance between visible light and correct look with most sensors.
Unless you use (physical) filters, nothing you can really do. Most cameras are very sensitive to IR light, and blocking IR/near IR completely wipes out a lot of deep reds and throws off colors as well. Sensors do not see at all like our eyes do.
Channel swapped 590nm IR shot attached.

Is there a way to simulate IOS display color filter on android device?

Hello. I wanna ask if there is a way to simulate IOS display color filter setting by some app or dev setting on android. I want to have this thing on android for one big reason - Blue light. Default Blue light filter Is quite insufficient on both android and apple devices because blue light is still pretty much present with it turned ON. You need to have no Blue light present if you want to have melatonine production in your brain. Apple have an color filter option in accessibility where you can tune your display in a way that It doesn't emitate Blue light. This video shows how it's done:
.I tried various different blue light filter apps like twilight, night filter etc but none of them filter 100% Blue light. Any ideas how to get this Done?

I think this is unrealistic unless you want to use a red or yellow based grey scale. Blue is a component of white so even greyscale has blue in it.
Your brain senses light through the skull as well. Low blue light is more for protecting the retina from the high energy higher blue wavelengths which are damaging. Newer Samsung's from the N10+ up already filter much of these out with the blue pixels themselves which are designed to a emit a lower bandwidth blue without compromising color.

blackhawk said:
I think this is unrealistic unless you want to use a red or yellow based grey scale. Blue is a component of white so even greyscale has blue in it.
Your brain senses light through the skull as well. Low blue light is more for protecting the retina from the high energy higher blue wavelengths which are damaging. Newer Samsung's from the N10+ up already filter much of these out with the blue pixels themselves which are designed to a emit a lower bandwidth blue without compromising color.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I understand it right, Chainfire´s Lumen app have an red based greyscale option. Maybe Lumen can get this thing done at least better than default android blue light filter? By the way here is samsung´s default Blue light filter on S20+ compared with android Twilight app and iP 11 Pro tuned with color filter all meassured with spectro-flicker meter: https://www.instagram.com/p/CJtmA0GH0Sy/ First meassurement is S20+ with default BL filter; second is without it; third is twilight app and fourth is IP 11 Pro with color filter.

LinkinLover2013 said:
If I understand it right, Chainfire´s Lumen app have an red based greyscale option. Maybe Lumen can get this thing done at least better than default android blue light filter? By the way here is samsung´s default Blue light filter on S20+ compared with android Twilight app and iP 11 Pro tuned with color filter all meassured with spectro-flicker meter: https://www.instagram.com/p/CJtmA0GH0Sy/ First meassurement is S20+ with default BL filter; second is without it; third is twilight app and fourth is IP 11 Pro with color filter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The human eye is most sensitive to green, quite a bit more than red. Argument being if you bath everything in red light will need to adjust the lumens higher level to be usable.
Personally I like color accuracy so I don't even use blue filtering on my N10+'s. I find it annoying. Instead use manual brightness control and keep it at a reasonable level for the ambient light conditions. Use dark mode and a layout that conserves your battery, pixels and retinas. With AMOLED displays you have much more capabilities than with LCD's
Read a book rather than look at these bloody ambient light sources late at night. Paper and print are far more relaxing, immersive and easier on the eyes.
My stock N10+/Pie homepage and pull down menu modified with Good Lock Quickstar:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}