So I bought a replacement screen, it became unresponding to touch within a few days. After sending it for a replacement the new one had the same issue right away. This time I desided to give it a go fixing it myself. I'd like to share with you how to fix this problem.
First of all the problem, the touch screen is not responding; its feeling very warm when you turn on your phone on the left down corner. The left down corner is where the screens hardware chip is located.
There are enough video's on youtube how to dissable your phone; so I will skip that part. Remove the screen and continue reading.
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Remove the copper carefully, try to keep it in one pieces. Its probably a ground field to keep interferences away.
If you dont want to remove the white plastic frame of your screen, you can cut it carefully for a little. Make sure you cut as less as needed and never cut it completely. Don't cut it near connections.
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After remove the copper you see an L shape of components, protected for short circuits by an L shape on the copper plate. These are circled with red.
Then also note there is an arrow on the picture, showing there are more conductors, but these are unprotected! Pressing on the screen cause short-wiring here. Fix it by placing some kind of protector on it ( insulation tape or something like that). Place the copper back and assemble your phone!
Thanks. You have resolved a long standing problem with my 1020, two displays later.
For others:
To insulate those exposed components use the proper stuff. Kapton tape. Google it. Sold by electronics suppliers and on ebay.
Also, look carefully at the circuit board for uninsulated vias. Vias are the small holes that join tracks between layers in the circuit. They look like a small gold circle with a tiny hole in the middle. Cover these too.
Thank you so much ! :good::good:
You are a genius
Related
I want to change my OEM digitizer with a new one. I've bought it but it comes with no installation guide.
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Anyone have a guide ?
Look at this: http://rapidshare.com/files/133052958/Diamond.pdf
wow it's too hard ..
i would only replace digitizer but this guide shown that i've to disassemble a thousand of components if i would access the digitizer
Did you change the digitizer???Because i have the same problem
All your devices are still under HTC warranty! Why do you want to do it yourself?
salada2k said:
All your devices are still under HTC warranty! Why do you want to do it yourself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because warranty service in Bulgaria until now no change is digitizer.They just do not know how to change this part.What do you advise me to do?
...In Bulgaria there is no representation of HTC.
I would call HTC and ask them what to do. I'm sure you could send it to them!
Can't you just take off the front isn't only just stuck there with double sided tape ?
I replaced the touchscreen in my Touch Dual and the hardest part was to find the right part after a hopeless and unhelpful ebay seller sent me the wrong part (still waiting for my refund) Once I got the correct part it was about 30mins work to swap it. I used double sided tape as the replacement parts don;t come with a gasket. I just cut my own and it stuck fine. Make sure you place parts together in stages of dis assembly as there's a few and some of the screws look the same but have different threads. I would have thought the diamond would be easier as it has no moving parts. Good luck.
link is broken
I have just stripped my Ignito (touch diamond) and it was no big deal but easily the most complicated phone I've dismantled. You dismantle the phone then peel the front clear skin off the digitiser, then gently lever-out the screen & digitizer together then split them. The LCD is VERY fragile, so use a real thin tool (like a feeler gauge) and go slowly to allow the glue time to come apart.
The digitizer and LCD ribbons are soldered together BTW so you'll need to use a soldering iron with a very fine tip to re-attach. I wrap some copper wire round a regular soldering iron tip for stuff like this to keep the heat input down.
Hi folks my other half who has a C600 has complained about joystick issues for a while now so I finally did something about it (sick of her complaining about her 'crap phone' - ungrateful #!&@! ), not sure if this is THE issue with the c600 joystick so would be interested in any feedback good or bad.
Basically the joystick became less and less responsive over time so harder presses were necessary to perform actions. Didn't fancy spraying WD40 in my phone (what does this actually do?) and after testing switch operation with my meter all seemed ok.
What I noticed was that the piece of metal holding the joystick is stamped to a lower level than the rest of the metal chassis holding the keyboard. This section is only supported at one end and therefore, every time the joystick is moved a bending action is exerted on this 'sub chassis'. Hopefully this picture might help people understand what I am on about...
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Now I found that by simply bending this piece of metal back up a little bit I restored the joystick to it's former self! No cleaning, NO WD40!
Now just to note I didn't mess around but I suspect the problem might return in time so maybe these phones are missing a bit of support between the joystick chassis and main board? Maybe someone messing about might want to investigate sorting this.
Hope this is useful to someone although I realise it is coming a little late in the C600 lifetime!
I just thought on if I get enough requests I could do a decent photo guide for stripping the C600 and maybe the VOX too.
What I do is clean all the dust out of the rubber piece that's over the joystick in my T-mobile SDA, and then spray the joystick with quick dry electrical cleaner (usually available at your local car parts store).
Hi thecraze, yes being an electronics engineer I am aware of switch cleaner. I realise in my case however this was not the issue, as all switch contacts showed a good low resistance with little effort on the joystick. There was also negligible dust too.
I have also noted that cleaning does not work for everyone, and this may be one of, if not the contributing factor in such cases.
Thanks anyway.
I am working on a wallmount for my TF700 atm, so once entering the door to my apartment i can grab and operate my house automation software with it.
Basically the 3D modell is done in Google Sketchup.
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Sliced the modell into a back-, mid- and frontplate, and exported it into a dwg-file which you can find in the zip attachment.
View attachment 1652239
I will use my local carpenter to provide me with the plates and work my way forward from this point. Please be advised i have not had time to cut the plates yet since i am quite busy irl atm.
Some work i still need to finish:
- thin rubberband between the tablet and wood, for easy safe sliding into the wallmount
- charging hole @ the bottom
- the mount system itself, hopefully removeable mayby integrate a kickstand so i can even place it on a table
Questions:
Is there a pin layout for the bottom charging plug, i heared it should also support audio out for external speakers there or can this only be achived by the headphone interface at the side of the tablet?
well done. looks nice
I would also recommend to cut-out a small piece in the top-middle of the back-plate. This will probably allow you to more easily grasp at the device.
Rubber does not make a good slide. I would suggest putting a layer of smooth fabric over the rubber to smoothen it.
Silk or Lycra (Lycra is cheaper) should work. Lycra has a better heat regulation than regular cotton, but normal cotton could work too if you're low on budget.
How will you be attaching it to the wall?
I like this idea!
What sort of home automation do you use? Something similar to Brighthouse Networks?
I find that a heavy duty felt works very well as a smooth barrier between two objects. Mostly, I've used it to keep my wood furniture from scratching the new floors, but the same principle applies obviously with glass & wood. It provides a good deal of padding beyond just the low friction surface, and it's also super cheap to boot.
Will I need different shaped screwdrivers or will a regular (small sized) Phillips & or flat head screwdrivers be all I need?
While I was looking for screens on eBay and Amazon I saw some that came with tools. One of the screwdrivers that came with one of the screens looks like a star so now I'm wondering if there are any star shaped screws holding the screen down that'll need a star shaped screwdriver to open it with.
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I hope replacing this screen doesn't end up becoming a huge pain. Will I be okay buying just a screen for $5 or should I pay almost 3 times as much to get the tools?
This is the screen I was originally looking at for $5.55 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=110787423167
Thanks for your suggestions!
When I got a new flex cable it came with the tools needed. BUT I found that a screwdriver I bought from radio Shack had better fitting tips. I'll try to find a link later today if I can.
Edit: I think what I'm referring to is called; RadioShack® 21-Piece Precision Electronic Driver SetCatalog #: 64-185 *|* Model: 6400185 for $17.49
This should be in Q/A. But that being said. I would spring for the kit that comes with the Tools. Especially if you do not have the correct tools. Yes you are going to need the Star shaped Screwdriver. Not for the Screen itself, but to be able to get to it. Also a few other suggestions. One make sure you watch the Video linked in THIS thread on how to disassemble the Shift. That thread also has pics you should study a bit. Another thing that I cannot stress enough. HAVE A CLEAN WORK AREA TO DO THE REPAIR. It will save you a bunch of headaches. Take your time. Do not try to rush the procedure. Lastly, make sure that the work surface, and you are properly grounded. This will avoid any issues from static discharge. Read, and take your time. It will save you grief later on .
[TL;DR - opened my phone using screwdriver down the headphones hole to pop open the back cover, reassembled everything, must've bent one of the connectors inside the headphones hole, bent it back, sound is OKAY, mic+buttons is NOT]
Hi all!
I just opened up and reassembled my OPO to change my microphone and battery (both works perfectly fine, wooo!)
After the reassembly, I stuck my regular earpieces in the headphone slot of the phone, and I noticed a piece of metal was sticking out from the side, inside the slot (it went horizontally across the hole, about 3mm down).
I just pushed my earpices down slowly, and it just.. bent down easily and made room. I got sound in my earpices, and I could skip songs / change volume using them, as I always could.
However, when I was walking home from work, I noticed that the buttons didn't work anymore - I couldn't skip songs, adjust volume, nothing. They still won't work :/
I opened up the phone again to see if something was broken, but it -seems- okay; No dust, no broken pieces, but I dunno.. The headphone slot feels "firmer" than it used to be as well, but it plays audio just fine. It's just the buttons that annoys me.
NOTE: When I removed the back cover, I stuck a tiny screwdriver down the headphones hole and jerked it lightly backwards for the cover to pop open.
Here's a crappy MSpaint image on how it looks:
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There are two small golden "dots" inside on the right (when keeping your screen facing you) and the bottom. On the left side is the golden "rod" that stuck out when I inserted the earpieces. There's a small crack just above where the rod starts, dunno if it's damaged or supposed to be that way.
Pictures:
Thank you!
*Bump*