[Q] How does the Sensor-Zoom work? - Xperia Z3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Hi Guys,
I asked myself how the zoom on my Z3 should work.
As far as I know, the Z3 can Zoom into the sensor while taking 8mpix pictures.
While I tried it, it seemed to me that the quality gets really bad.
I was guessing that the indicator on the left is the indicator which separates digital zoom from the sensor-zoom.
As far as I thought the light grey indicator-bar shows the part which is the sensor zoom and the dark part is the digital zoom.
Considering the quality it seems to me that both modes are digital zoom. The picture looks really annoying while i use it.
I just thought maybe I'm doing something wrong - has anyone an idea how I can improve this or use it right or or or...
Regards,
Matthias

I didn't know about the 8mp restriction, i also tested it out in the shop, but in 20mp mode. The sections looked identical. However, as the sensor is not at it's limits at 8mp, i guess it could take a higher resolution and crop it to 8mp size at the zoomed in section.

Auto mode enables you to use the camera's Clear Zoom feature, which produces good-looking, lossless-like digital zoom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the image is stretched by the software, which then attempts to fill in the blanks as best as it can. Well, thanks to the giant sensors on the Nokia Lumia 1020 and Sony Xperia Z1/Z1 Compact, zoom is no longer a problem. But instead of opting for bulky zoom lens (Galaxy S4 Zoom), they both rely on their massive resolution in order to get what we call 'lossless' zoom.
So what's lossless zoom, then? In simple terms, it means that zooming into a scene will only result in a negligible loss in quality. Think of it this way: there are so many pixels available with a camera like the one on the 1020 that you can 'crop' any part of the photo and still have more than enough pixels for a full-sized photo that will appear zoomed in. No upscaling, and no loss of quality. But how does it work in practice?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More info about everything
http://www.phonearena.com/news/What...-work-in-the-Lumia-1020-and-Xperia-Z1_id52198
So conclusion is, it is all digital zoom

electrash said:
More info about everything
http://www.phonearena.com/news/What...-work-in-the-Lumia-1020-and-Xperia-Z1_id52198
So conclusion is, it is all digital zoom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, it is something like digital zoom. But I think, the quality while zooming into an 8mpix picture should not be worse in quality (depending on the zoom factor) than the 20mpix picture.
When I take a 8 mpix picture, I assume that the image processor will take it in 20mpix and shrink it down to 8.
And what I would like to see is that
I could zoom in and it will just move into the sensor to a 1:1 size.
Another thing : while using the video mode, the stabilizer does an amazing job.
What about the photo-mode? I can't see any stabilisation there.
Since I only take 8mpi pictures, I guess the picture-frame could also be panned around the 20m of the sensor...
Regards,
Matthias

Maeffjus said:
Okay, it is something like digital zoom. But I think, the quality while zooming into an 8mpix picture should not be worse in quality (depending on the zoom factor) than the 20mpix picture.
When I take a 8 mpix picture, I assume that the image processor will take it in 20mpix and shrink it down to 8.
And what I would like to see is that
I could zoom in and it will just move into the sensor to a 1:1 size.
Another thing : while using the video mode, the stabilizer does an amazing job.
What about the photo-mode? I can't see any stabilisation there.
Since I only take 8mpi pictures, I guess the picture-frame could also be panned around the 20m of the sensor...
Regards,
Matthias
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In SA mode, phone take oversampled photo (which means he take 21mp, but he make HD pixel (one pixel combine colors from neibghours)... so when you take 8mpx it takes 20mp ovesampled.
When you zoom in, it will take more and more neibhours pixel to combine in one, so that means loseless.

Related

Panoramic function in camera app very limited

I noticed that the angle for panoramic pictures is VERY limited. For example I could take a 360° surround shot with my Samsung, whereas my Mate 9 doesn't even allow 90°.
Is there a way to extend the angle in my camera app?
SilvaSurf said:
I noticed that the angle for panoramic pictures is VERY limited. For example I could take a 360° surround shot with my Samsung, whereas my Mate 9 doesn't even allow 90°.
Is there a way to extend the angle in my camera app?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting 180°
alright, I mispoke. It's more than 90°, because of the wide angle of the lense. Sorry about that. But it's not 180°, maybe 150° ......
But the degrees are not important, I want to improve that ... is there a way?

Camera is buggy - Too much Noise ( High ISO - 2000-3000 )

Hello,
So I received my all new HTC U11 3 days back ( in India) officially. HTC u11 has world's best rated camera but I am not quite satisfied with the results.
1.) Rear camera is really struggling to capture the photos in low light. I can clearly see the noise.
2.) Front facing camera has no OIS so pictures are blurry and most of the times I noisy photos.
Find the attachments below :
1.) Front facing camera
2 ) rear facing camera
See the noise and level of quality.
hm.. photo #1 has the plant completely out of focus. photo #2 has the pot in focus. you may wanna make sure that the subject is in focus before snapping.
did you change the camera settings to "Touch autoexposure"? The default mode of the camera is "Center-weighted"
Conan1986 said:
hm.. photo #1 has the plant completely out of focus. photo #2 has the pot in focus. you may wanna make sure that the subject is in focus before snapping.
did you change the camera settings to "Touch autoexposure"? The default mode of the camera is "Center-weighted"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for replying. Let me make the things clear.
The first photo was taken from the selfie camera where I tried to focus on the plant/pot everywhere but it was not focusing anyhow. No matter what it wasn't focusing.
In low light, I can clearly see the noise in the all corners.
The selfie camera doesn't have auto focus everything is in focus ( as long as it is at least 18 inches away). Play around with the settings for the rear camera. HDR auto, HDR, so far all my photos are excellent focal point and background.
Conan1986 said:
hm.. photo #1 has the plant completely out of focus. photo #2 has the pot in focus. you may wanna make sure that the subject is in focus before snapping.
did you change the camera settings to "Touch autoexposure"? The default mode of the camera is "Center-weighted"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
schmeggy929 said:
The selfie camera doesn't have auto focus everything is in focus ( as long as it is at least 18 inches away). Play around with the settings for the rear camera. HDR auto, HDR, so far all my photos are excellent focal point and background.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I have attached a sample selfie shot. Please check and tell me.
[email protected] said:
Well I have attached a sample selfie shot. Please check and tell me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said you are too close using the selfie cam, it is meant too be an arm's long away to have everything in focus.
schmeggy929 said:
Like I said you are too close using the selfie cam, it is meant too be an arm's long away to have everything in focus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sir I am not complaining about the focus and all... See the noise... Can't you see the noise in the picture?
Even zoom your spiderman... You will notice the same noise.
[email protected] said:
Sir I am not complaining about the focus and all... See the noise... Can't you see the noise in the picture?
Even zoom your spiderman... You will notice the same noise.[/Q
Adjust the iso manually
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conan1986 said:
did you change the camera settings to "Touch autoexposure"? The default mode of the camera is "Center-weighted"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. Can you say more here or is there a link to how we can best make this adjustment? I'm not terribly savvy and appreciate the tips. Thx.
skypilotofhope said:
Hi. Can you say more here or is there a link to how we can best make this adjustment? I'm not terribly savvy and appreciate the tips. Thx.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, in the camera app, pull down the slider with the = icon, swipe to the right to reveal "Settings" which is on the left, tap on that and "Touch autoexposure" should be the first option.
This option is important if you tend to compose your shots with the subject not in the middle (rule of thirds) so tapping on your subject will adjust the exposure and focus according to your subject.
My low light shots are all at over 3000 ISO which leaves quite a bit of visible noise in the picture.
Not liking the camera in poor lighting just yet. Hopefully they will introduce an ISO limiter, or simply fix this in an upcoming update.
I also have a lot of noise in low light photos (rear camera). Automode just isn´t usable if you want to have nice low light photos. The pictures look like that of phones some years ago. Light sources are also always blown out a lot. I also think that the OIS of the U11 isn´t the best out there. So far I don´t really think that this is the best smartphone camera and I was hoping for a better camera performance. HTC told a german magazine in May that they want to deliver an update for the camera. But I don´t know if they really deliver or if this update was the small update of June (?) of the camera app itself. I did this update and nothing changed.
Camera is phenomenal with stunning low light performance.
Check one of mine in auto
IMAG0247 by xristos zerzis, on Flickr
Guys, I've been into photography for over 40yrs. - shooting at ISO 3000 will give you noise onless you're using one of the latest Pro or Prosumer cameras w/advanced sensors- the Nikon D5 / D500 are full frame cropped frame verions ef virtually the same camera in terms of auto focus, pic rendition, & yes, superlative results w/astronomical ISO's - which both support. This is a phone, not a prosumer or petter camera. 3000 ISO is gonna give noise. There are a number of companies that make post processing software specifically to help w/Noise. That nite shot the other fellow took is good work.
The phone is great. The camera is quite good. Deal w/the technical realities & don't expect the cellphone camera to deal w/noise like a Pro DSLR.
foxy4270 said:
Camera is phenomenal with stunning low light performance.
Check one of mine in auto
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Click to collapse
That's great, but the ISO fired at only 1262.
Whenever I take a shot in similar lighting, auto mode uses ISO 3152, which means there will be a lot of noise.
Perhaps there are different software versions going around, because my phone has very poor low light performance in auto mode due to it using a far higher ISO than it should.
oldwolf613 said:
The phone is great. The camera is quite good. Deal w/the technical realities & don't expect the cellphone camera to deal w/noise like a Pro DSLR.
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Click to collapse
I'm not expecting such a small sensor to handle ISO well - I'm expecting that the camera won't default to a ridiculously high ISO like 3152 where my previous Samsung S6 was happily snapping along at ~1000 with stellar results.
Yes, everyone knows that this isn't a DSLR. But when they claim to have the best smartphone camera around I expect better results. I also don't know why they use a smaller sensor than before... This phone goes for 749 Euro and the low light results often look like from an old S5 or iPhone 4. The Automode just isn't usable in this scenarios. If they deliver an update they could solve the issues, I guess.
Turn on pro mode and drop ISO..
rom116 said:
Turn on pro mode and drop ISO..
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Click to collapse
And here in the first sample you can see what I mean with this weak OIS...
Zico, as someone else said go Pro mode & get lower ISO, & even if this phone's camera sensor is smaller than prev ones, - compared to a Pro(sumer) DSLR, this fone's cam compared to prev one vs.
DSLR is like the choosing pinch hitters who bat .249 & .253- the smaller fone sensor is just a bit less than the prev *slightly* bigger one- then there is the density of pixels & dynamic range that make for a good camera - Y am I still talking abt this?
Pro mode and manually selecting ISO is not a solution to a poorly tuned auto mode - it is a workaround that is barely tolerable.

Front Camera Image Zoomed in

Hello, I've been an XDA lurker for a while, starting with my Galaxy S4. I just recently got a OnePlus 6, and love it so far, but this one problem is kind of irritating me.
When using the front camera (both in the camera app when not set to 4:3, and third party apps like snapchat), the picture looks very zoomed in). I'm guessing its because any other ratio is just a cropped version of 4:3.
The only way I can think to fix this is to force a different ratio for the camera to use, but I'm not sure if that is even possible.
Anyone else have this type of problem? Help would be much appreciated.
I think its because the lense has a higher focal length... Nothing to do with ratio.
So is there any way to work around this so that the front image isn't so zoomed in?
For video? It's because of their stabilization
NateDev said:
For video? It's because of their stabilization
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean in the pictures. Like if you're taking a selfie, the viewfinder shows the image as very zoomed in (like your face covers the image if you're a normal distance away), and the picture is taken like that.
When you shoot with 4:3 you have all the picture of the sensor. When you shoot with 16:9 or other you don't use all the sensor but it crops the image to be in that ratio. And you see the zoom. Take a picture with 4:3 and zoom with your fingers to see a picture of 16:9 shot. It's the same.
OnePlus 6

Best photo resolution

Hi everyone!
Which resolution do you use, 12 mpx or 20 mpx? 12mpx gives you hybrid zoom x2 but phone only uses rgb lens, while 20mpx supposedly uses both lenses to create a hybrid colour/b&w pic. So which do you use? I have it on 12mpx in order to use zoom but don't really know which is best.
Cheers!
It actually depends on your preference and the situation you want to create in the photo. I use the 20mp when shooting wide angle landscapes, while im using the 12mp when shooting portraits or closeups
earl_110 said:
It actually depends on your preference and the situation you want to create in the photo. I use the 20mp when shooting wide angle landscapes, while im using the 12mp when shooting portraits or closeups
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for replying! I've actually found that shooting a normal close up pic on 12mpx shoots in kind of a wide-angle effect. Last friday celebrating carnival at school, I was able to fit in a whole class of 28 kids from a few feet away. If u look at the pic, it looks like it has been shot on a wide-angle lens!
Any more opinions on camera config are more than welcome!
I don't believe that the 20MPx option uses both cameras. When you partially cover the B&W sensor, there is no noticable effect on the photo. Looks like it is only software based up-scaling and may get you jagged edges sometimes. After some testing with 20MPx and then 20MPx resized to 12MPx just for comparison, I prefer the 12MPx default setting.
_Marian_ said:
I don't believe that the 20MPx option uses both cameras. When you partially cover the B&W sensor, there is no noticable effect on the photo. Looks like it is only software based up-scaling and may get you jagged edges sometimes. After some testing with 20MPx and then 20MPx resized to 12MPx just for comparison, I prefer the 12MPx default setting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Marian, thanks for your reply!
So on a phone with a dual camera, what would be the purpose of the dual lens?? If one is rgb and the other monocrome, don't they both work together to provide depth information and zoom? Or do all colour pics use just the one rgb lens and the other is exclusively for b&w pics?? Seems a little pointless to me...
You are totally right about the sw upscale to 20mp as any other camera app only detects a maximum resolution of 12 mp, but it seems strange to me that even on 12mp colour pictutes, the phone wouldn't use both lens (depth and zoom) because the inferior P20 Lite precisely doess that on all the reviews I read about it (I've always thought that was the point of all dual-lens cameras).
Cheers!
The B&W sensor should provide depth information. You can try different camera modes and cover the B&W sensor. The phone says "Please do not cover the lenses." in some camera modes. But if you don't put finger too close, nothing happens. I can't tell it does anything at all to the image quality which seems strange. Did they made some mistake in latest build? It only does have some effect on aperture mode when you can see heat haze effect on display. It sucks we don't have more options like jpg quality or sliders for post-process filters.

Camera OIS/sharpness?

Hi folks,
I am presently playing around with my P40 Pro, especially the camera as this is of special interest for me.
I am comparing with a Oneplus 8 Pro.
What I noticed is that the P40 Pro camera is giving a lot more blurred images at medium to lower lighting, in fact it's surprisingly diffcult for me to get a sharp indoor shot.
This is on .122 Firmware and I am bit at a loss on how to tackle this, in fact it's a bit disappointing for such a hyped camera.
Isn't the P40 pro camera supposed to have OIS?
And this is with very comparable aperture and shutter speed between OP8P and P40P...
Am I the only one? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Axel
Are you using Google services?
Noexcusses said:
Are you using Google services?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes... Why?... Is there a known influence?
What do you exactly mean by blurred photos. Motion blur or out of focus blur? Motion blur is caused by slower shutter speed. Focus blur by focus failure. There is also blur(bokeh) caused by much bigger camera sensor used in P40 PRO. So depending what your subject is you may experience different results. Longer shutter speed and lower ISO is preferred for best image quality as long as you have static scene. But in scene with moving object, object in motion can be blurred. Personally I am on .121 and I rarely get blured photo due to any phenomena described above.
D1G1TE said:
What do you exactly mean by blurred photos. Motion blur or out of focus blur?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To me it seems like motion blur from camera shake... But images at around 1/30s with OIS should normally be fine - at least they are on the other handsets I tried...
This is why I am asking, maybe OIS is not working... Anybody got an idea to test this with some tool?
Have you contacted Huawei customer support? Could be faulty, it also may be worth checking out the huawei community page to see if that is the case
TomFordGoesForth said:
Have you contacted Huawei customer support? Could be faulty, it also may be worth checking out the huawei community page to see if that is the case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that's my fear.... Well, I am still within the return period, maybe it makes sense to go back to the dealer instead...
EDIT: seems a factory reset fixed it, now I need to discuss with myself whether I try to go without Google for the time being....
s3axel said:
Yes... Why?... Is there a known influence?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes some Google services effecting camera... I have tested many ways..
Noexcusses said:
Yes some Google services effecting camera... I have tested many ways..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very interesting, would you mind sharing your findings/theory ?
Noexcusses said:
Yes some Google services effecting camera... I have tested many ways..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it fits to my experience, as written above. Sadly that nails the coffin then, the P40 Pro is going back Thanks for sharing, though
Yeah, firlando code method creates on my night shots some effect lines and on a1234567 method i have good night shots but blurry fotos on daylight... Today i will try to use my phone without Googleplay services...
This installing method on Google services witch you need to go on apps and delete playstore etc i think is the keys for the problem... We need a clean installation without deletations..
s3axel said:
Well, it fits to my experience, as written above. Sadly that nails the coffin then, the P40 Pro is going back Thanks for sharing, though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong
Observation about the lines in the foto. Lines are reflections from lights. I realised it today. Im testing camera without Google services. Tomorrow i will test on daylight.. I think 121 update is bad update.. is there any way to roal back to 112?
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Noexcusses said:
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for checking this out, then I am a bit reassured
Hopefully this is fixed with a near term update because this really sucks!
Don't know I rolling back is possible,will need to investigate a bit more....
Noexcusses said:
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also disappointed with this update (121) pics quality is average but video quality is lower than on p20 pro.
Zoom doesn't seem to work properly either - it's digital up to 8,5 -10 x then periscope kicks in.
Noexcusses said:
Here its a foto without Google services... Still no sharp almost blur... I think is Just the 121 update is worst than out of the box 112 version
We just w8 the 127 update
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Erm ... I don't see anything wrong with that picture.
You focused on the closed petal at the left side, it's perfectly sharp, rest blurred as it should be. Not the prettiest bokeh, but okay.
Do I overlook something?
---------- Post added at 07:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:24 AM ----------
Noexcusses said:
Yeah, firlando code method creates on my night shots some effect lines and on a1234567 method i have good night shots but blurry fotos on daylight... Today i will try to use my phone without Googleplay services....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, I don't see what's wrong with that picture. Maybe you could point out the problem a bit more in detail?
It would also be quite helpful for sorting out culprits if you (and anyone else) accompany your pictures with some EXIF data, like shooting mode, AI on/off, ISO, exposure, aperture and zoom factor. Unfortunately, XDA seems to remove that data from posted pictures.
---------- Post added at 07:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:21 AM ----------
forever_lol said:
Zoom doesn't seem to work properly either - it's digital up to 8,5 -10 x then periscope kicks in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's indeed the case with firmware .121. And it's far worse in the "Pro" mode, rendering "Pro" mode almost useless.
Let's hope the next updates home in on that fault.
Look the sharpness on 112 version
Noexcusses said:
Look the sharpness on 112 version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EXIF data? Answers to me previous questions?
These are important information, e. g. telling me about the aperture of the lens used, making a difference regarding depth of field, possibly explaining why you *perceive* a picture as not okay.
Besides that:
Similar quality, similar sharpness - if not identical.
This time, there was more distance to the subject, widening the depth of field, the "sharpness range."
Let's assume the picture was taken with the main 50 MP camera, having an aperture of f/1.9 - a big difference to the aperture of the telephoto lens with f/3.4.
The smaller the f-number, the larger the physical lens opening. And the larger the physical lens opening, the shallower, smaller the depth of field.
Meaning: With a shallow depth of field, a few millimeters more or less distance to the subject can make the difference between razorsharp and blurry. Result: Only objects exactly within the depth of field are rendered sharp.
With a wide depth of field and a larger distance, like with the telephoto lens, it's less crucial, every part of the flower will be sharp.
I would show you example pictures if I was allowed to use external links - but my post count is still too low.
Just try taking pictures of the same flower with different lenses, one with the 50 MP main camera, one with the telephoto lens. With the latter, increase the distance till the flower roughly occupies the same space in the viewfinder as with the main camera.
Important: Use a zoom factor of 10, not 5 - this makes sure your really switch to the telephoto lens. At present, there's a software bug causing the camera to often use horrible digital zoom for 5 x instead of the real telephoto lens (seems to be connected with the metered subject's distance). You can check this by covering the rectangular telephoto lens with a finger. If the picture vanishes, the lens is doing it's job.
You'll find out that the photo taken with the main camera has sharp and blurry areas, while the photo taken with the telephoto lens is rendered sharp everywhere.
That's the results of aperture and distance.
And that's why I don't see anything wrong with your first flower picture: Wide open aperture, small distance = tiny depth of field = tiny area of sharpness.
The way it should be because we all like that bokeh effect (blurry background, making the subject stand out) more than typical "flat" smartphone pictures.
But this benefit is paid with a drawback, the small depth of field, rendering everything outside that "sweet spot" blurry.
Perfectly normal, nothing to write home about.
Oh wait, I'll dare to post a link anyway - hope the moderators won't kill me for that impertinence.
Just took two quick photos right outside my house, clearly showing the effects I explained above.
http://waagerecht.com/kram/Flower_comparison.jpg
Picture is quite large, so be warned.
Telephoto: ISO 50, f/3.4, 1/196 s. Main lens: ISO 50, f/1.9, 1/846 s. Both shot in Photo auto mode, no AI.
About that numbers: ISO 50 tells me there should be no grain in the picture; the higher the ISO, the more grain in the picture.
f/3.4 tells me there's a wide depth of field, so there should be no greater blur. Also tells me the telephoto lens was used. f/1.9 tells me to expect blur everywhere outside the "sweet spot", main lens used.
1/196 and 1/846 tell me about very short exposure, so in-motion unsharpness (camera shake, moving subject) is very unlikely.
And because the telephoto lens has a smaller aperture of f/3.4 (and lenses with a higher curvature), less light reaches the sensor, thus exposure time is greatly increased, 1/196 s versus 1/846 s.
See why I asked for that data?
You'll see that the telephoto shot is all sharp (until you zoom in; lower sensor resolution plus digital zoom, today's modern pestilence), you can even see the structure of the green leaves, while the main camera shot has everything blurred except the flower's pistils.
That's just the way cameras work.
So enjoy your fine camera, it does a great work and does it right.
Klosterbruder said:
EXIF data? Answers to me previous questions?
These are important information, e. g. telling me about the aperture of the lens used, making a difference regarding depth of field, possibly explaining why you *perceive* a picture as not okay.
Besides that:
Similar quality, similar sharpness - if not identical.
This time, there was more distance to the subject, widening the depth of field, the "sharpness range."
Let's assume the picture was taken with the main 50 MP camera, having an aperture of f/1.9 - a big difference to the aperture of the telephoto lens with f/3.4.
The smaller the f-number, the larger the physical lens opening. And the larger the physical lens opening, the shallower, smaller the depth of field.
Meaning: With a shallow depth of field, a few millimeters more or less distance to the subject can make the difference between razorsharp and blurry. Result: Only objects exactly within the depth of field are rendered sharp.
With a wide depth of field and a larger distance, like with the telephoto lens, it's less crucial, every part of the flower will be sharp.
I would show you example pictures if I was allowed to use external links - but my post count is still too low.
Just try taking pictures of the same flower with different lenses, one with the 50 MP main camera, one with the telephoto lens. With the latter, increase the distance till the flower roughly occupies the same space in the viewfinder as with the main camera.
Important: Use a zoom factor of 10, not 5 - this makes sure your really switch to the telephoto lens. At present, there's a software bug causing the camera to often use horrible digital zoom for 5 x instead of the real telephoto lens (seems to be connected with the metered subject's distance). You can check this by covering the rectangular telephoto lens with a finger. If the picture vanishes, the lens is doing it's job.
You'll find out that the photo taken with the main camera has sharp and blurry areas, while the photo taken with the telephoto lens is rendered sharp everywhere.
That's the results of aperture and distance.
And that's why I don't see anything wrong with your first flower picture: Wide open aperture, small distance = tiny depth of field = tiny area of sharpness.
The way it should be because we all like that bokeh effect (blurry background, making the subject stand out) more than typical "flat" smartphone pictures.
But this benefit is paid with a drawback, the small depth of field, rendering everything outside that "sweet spot" blurry.
Perfectly normal, nothing to write home about.
Oh wait, I'll dare to post a link anyway - hope the moderators won't kill me for that impertinence.
Just took two quick photos right outside my house, clearly showing the effects I explained above.
http://waagerecht.com/kram/Flower_comparison.jpg
Picture is quite large, so be warned.
Telephoto: ISO 50, f/3.4, 1/196 s. Main lens: ISO 50, f/1.9, 1/846 s. Both shot in Photo auto mode, no AI.
About that numbers: ISO 50 tells me there should be no grain in the picture; the higher the ISO, the more grain in the picture.
f/3.4 tells me there's a wide depth of field, so there should be no greater blur. Also tells me the telephoto lens was used. f/1.9 tells me to expect blur everywhere outside the "sweet spot", main lens used.
1/196 and 1/846 tell me about very short exposure, so in-motion unsharpness (camera shake, moving subject) is very unlikely.
And because the telephoto lens has a smaller aperture of f/3.4 (and lenses with a higher curvature), less light reaches the sensor, thus exposure time is greatly increased, 1/196 s versus 1/846 s.
See why I asked for that data?
You'll see that the telephoto shot is all sharp (until you zoom in; lower sensor resolution plus digital zoom, today's modern pestilence), you can even see the structure of the green leaves, while the main camera shot has everything blurred except the flower's pistils.
That's just the way cameras work.
So enjoy your fine camera, it does a great work and does it right.
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Jeasus Christ i never used 50 mp sesnor i use the normal sensor for the red flower and also same sensor with pink flower... im changing so many phones every year and i can clearly understand what a foto needs! P40 pro with 122 version is less detailed on normal shots than with 112 , i need t use night mode on day light fotos to get some sharpness..
Also the foto you have posted there is no detailed at all i can taje same photo with my xiaomi mia 3 Stock camera apk... and i can get also much better shots withy GCAM on mia 3!

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