Waterproofing verification - Xperia Z3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Opening this thread I would like to focus your attention about the waterproofing of our devices. Now seems to be a common problem, have gaps on the glass of the phone. Some see thin glimmers of light coming from the gaps, more or less accentuated. Logically, we must remember that the front panel is glued, and as we all know the glue that is used is transparent, so if the front glass is not perfectly centered, it is "normal" to see the thin light. I hope I do not say bull****.
The waterproof? I invite you all to take a test looking at CPU-Z reading the pressure / barometer.
With all the flaps closed, placing weight on the screen, I noticed an increase in value. Moments later, with the weight still on the phone, the value tends to return to the original, before the weight. Try it yourself and let me know.
bye bye

On people posting they saw light at edges of screen I checked mine and on left side I have a tiny amount of light coming through.
My phone was previously submerged in water with no ill effects.
Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

who ever started this whole "pressure test" using the sensor is pretty clueless and i find the it nothing more than a bunch of bull for testing for waterproofing. all it really takes is an extremely small entry to get water inside.. even if you try to do this "pressure test" it will obviously increase as the sensor is extremely sensitive to pressure changes, this in fact still doesn't verify the unit is air tight because air pressure is constantly changing.
it's kind of like air pressure inside a car tire... the pressure changes depending on many factors. air temperature, road temperature, tire temperature, etc. the same with the internal phone barometer sensor.. i will have a hard time believing there is anyone out there that has done this "pressure test" and monitored it over several hours to see if it remained the same.. simply impossible, even if the device is technically waterproof..

it seems you do not understand the physics involved.
If there is only the slightest point of entry the pressure will note rise as there is no closed system.

tft said:
who ever started this whole "pressure test" using the sensor is pretty clueless and i find the it nothing more than a bunch of bull for testing for waterproofing. all it really takes is an extremely small entry to get water inside.. even if you try to do this "pressure test" it will obviously increase as the sensor is extremely sensitive to pressure changes, this in fact still doesn't verify the unit is air tight because air pressure is constantly changing.
it's kind of like air pressure inside a car tire... the pressure changes depending on many factors. air temperature, road temperature, tire temperature, etc. the same with the internal phone barometer sensor.. i will have a hard time believing there is anyone out there that has done this "pressure test" and monitored it over several hours to see if it remained the same.. simply impossible, even if the device is technically waterproof..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not a matter of being confused. clarify once and for all the question of pressure, using the ideal gas law (who has studied physics will agree with me).
The ideal gas law says that: P * V = n * R * T
P = pressure
V = Volume of air inside the phone, in this case
n = number of moles of air
R = constant
T = temperature
If explicit pressure (the one that interests us), we obtain:
P = (n * R * T) / V
At this point, we expand P. As we know, the pressure is the force exerted on the area. then:
F / A = P = (n * R * T) / V (1)
In our case we have:
A is a constant
R is a constant
n is a constant
T is the only value that can vary, but for our thinking, we can consider it constant.
Let us now consider V.
V is a constant if the air is the same and does not change the volume inside the phone, if the phone is airtight. In fact, considering the equation (1), increasing F ('m pressing on the display), the equation to remain true, P must increase. If the force remains constant at a given value, P must remain constant to the new value. That's why in the thread I asked you if you happen exactly during the test.
Otherwise, if V has the ability to change (the air inside the device is no longer constant because it has the ability to get in and out), then increasing F, P remains constant because V decreases (air comes out from the device). It happens when we keep the flaps open.
The question for us is: If you press on the display, and maintaining a constant force (let us help with a small weight of an object, instead of pressing with your fingers), the pressure stabilizes at a higher value? or, after rising, returns to its original value? In the first case, airtight. In the second case, well, the assumptions are two: the phone is not airtight ... or maybe it is, and somehow Sony has found a way to make a device that is waterproof but still manages to keep "ventilated "CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. ... components that produce heat.
Insisting that are only hypotheses, more people carry out this test, we will have a more clear idea of the whole.
So, dear friend, I am not confused. Bye

nick-1988 said:
It is not a matter of being confused. clarify once and for all the question of pressure, using the ideal gas law (who has studied physics will agree with me).
The ideal gas law says that: P * V = n * R * T
P = pressure
V = Volume of air inside the phone, in this case
n = number of moles of air
R = constant
T = temperature
If explicit pressure (the one that interests us), we obtain:
P = (n * R * T) / V
At this point, we expand P. As we know, the pressure is the force exerted on the area. then:
F / A = P = (n * R * T) / V (1)
In our case we have:
A is a constant
R is a constant
n is a constant
T is the only value that can vary, but for our thinking, we can consider it constant.
Let us now consider V.
V is a constant if the air is the same and does not change the volume inside the phone, if the phone is airtight. In fact, considering the equation (1), increasing F ('m pressing on the display), the equation to remain true, P must increase. If the force remains constant at a given value, P must remain constant to the new value. That's why in the thread I asked you if you happen exactly during the test.
Otherwise, if V has the ability to change (the air inside the device is no longer constant because it has the ability to get in and out), then increasing F, P remains constant because V decreases (air comes out from the device). It happens when we keep the flaps open.
The question for us is: If you press on the display, and maintaining a constant force (let us help with a small weight of an object, instead of pressing with your fingers), the pressure stabilizes at a higher value? or, after rising, returns to its original value? In the first case, airtight. In the second case, well, the assumptions are two: the phone is not airtight ... or maybe it is, and somehow Sony has found a way to make a device that is waterproof but still manages to keep "ventilated "CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. ... components that produce heat.
Insisting that are only hypotheses, more people carry out this test, we will have a more clear idea of the whole.
So, dear friend, I am not confused. Bye
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool explanation. Are you studying engineering?

Hustlervanz said:
Cool explanation. Are you studying engineering?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I hope that who have a z3 takes 5 minutes of his life to do this test, and maybe write here the result. If we don't help us togheter,who help? Santa Claus?

in fact I started a thread a while ago in general forums
http://forum.xda-developers.com/z3/general/guide-test-waterproofing-water-t2897886
and yes, it does stabilze and it stabilizes higher than without added pressure. When you let go pressure drops.

12630
Bäcker said:
in fact I started a thread a while ago in general forums
http://forum.xda-developers.com/z3/general/guide-test-waterproofing-water-t2897886
and yes, it does stabilze and it stabilizes higher than without added pressure. When you let go pressure drops.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So are you telling me that, the pressure , after I put a weight on the screen, goes to an highter value and stay on it until a remove the weight? Does your z3 do that? My z3, after I put a weight on it, pressure goes to an highter value but some instants later go back to the original value (without weight). And when I remove the weight, pressure decrease from the original value, and then, returns to the value before all of this.
In other words, maths words:
Pressure without nothing on the z3: X
Pressure with a weight on it: X+2
1 second later pressure go to the value : X
If I remove the weight, pressure: X-2
1 second later....: x

I just rechecked, it's as you observed. After reliefing manual force pressure goes below starting pressure and then quickly returns to "X"
I guess it is because of the sensor Logics/design because such sudden pressure changes are not normally occurring and thus confuse the readings

Bäcker said:
I just rechecked, it's as you observed. After reliefing manual force pressure goes below starting pressure and then quickly returns to "X"
I guess it is because of the sensor Logics/design because such sudden pressure changes are not normally occurring and thus confuse the readings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok but, when you initially give a force on the screen, the pressure go to an higher value, ok... and then quickly go to "X", isn't it? And then happens what you write above.
I honestly do not know if I give you right or wrong about the algorithm used for the pressure sensor. Mathematically speaking, looking at the equation I wrote above, the pressure should remain constant and higher if we are going to put a force on the glass. But it does not happen and both me and you get the same behavior. We just have to wait and collect more test by users ... and if someone will tell us that the pressure is kept constant at an higher value, the answer is already given us

nick-1988 said:
So are you telling me that, the pressure , after I put a weight on the screen, goes to an highter value and stay on it until a remove the weight? Does your z3 do that? My z3, after I put a weight on it, pressure goes to an highter value but some instants later go back to the original value (without weight). And when I remove the weight, pressure decrease from the original value, and then, returns to the value before all of this.
In other words, maths words:
Pressure without nothing on the z3: X
Pressure with a weight on it: X+2
1 second later pressure go to the value : X
If I remove the weight, pressure: X-2
1 second later....: x
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a z2 with a cracked screen and a vulnerable flap as I've already had water inside. I just received my new z3. Pressure tests on each device result in the same exact results. They are exactly as you describe. In my opinion the pressure test proves nothing.

nick-1988 said:
Yes I hope that who have a z3 takes 5 minutes of his life to do this test, and maybe write here the result. If we don't help us togheter,who help? Santa Claus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then why DON'T you do the test and post the accurate results don't have somebody that dies not have a clue ruined his phone if he does are you going to replaced it of course not

Same here, ~820hPa without pressure then goes up to ~823hPa and comes back to ~820... After removing the weight it goes to 817 and then back to 820. Something is wrong with this method I think. Oh by the way, my screen is completely centered but I do see light leaking on the left/bottom side while on full brightness and in a completely dark room. I'm really worried that my phone won't be waterproof because of that leakage and I'd love to know whether it is or it is not...

Tested on my device and I got the results I wanted, short increase and then back to the correct pressure when placing a weight on the screen.
Isn’t it quite obvious that the pressure first increase a bit and go back to the correct reading?
If it didn’t the construction would be incorrect, having a barometric pressure sensor that didn’t react on the outside air pressure, what would be the use of that?
The barometric sensor is in the phones to give us better height reading, as the accuracy of GPS height wise is rather bad, so it MUST react on the outside air pressure.
There is a big difference between airtight and watertight, and there are many materials constructed that keep the water out but let the air in, you can’t test them with a barometer either.
The topic of this thread is incorrect and makes no sense at all.

Try comparing the results when the flaps are fully closed, and the flaps are opened.

Hustlervanz said:
Try comparing the results when the flaps are fully closed, and the flaps are opened.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did - 890 without pressure, flaps closed and 893 with pressure but when I openedbthe flap it stayed at 890 no matter how hard I pressed so I'm guessing it is air/water tight.

No words to say... I am very disappointed with Sony... another issue and I sincerely hope it's an issue linked only for these two unit in the video... Let's see guys
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VpuMfpxCrQ

nick-1988 said:
No words to say... I am very disappointed with Sony... another issue and I sincerely hope it's an issue linked only for these two unit in the video... Let's see guys
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VpuMfpxCrQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... Just tested mine and it's the same as in the video... I really cannot believe that they ruined their phone's strongest point, that is advertised the most, because of that crappy strap hole that NO ONE USES BUT THEY'RE TOO STUBBORN TO REMOVE... I really do regret the fact that I paid so much for this.

Light at edges of screen
Hello ,today i discover ,that my brand new xperia Z3 have lights on the left bottom edge of smartphone. Now im not sure it is 100% waterproff ,i heard that some people have same problem but what about u? Check that in ur xperia and write a post (tip: u can see it only at 100% lights setting with right angle) http ://prntscr.com/53c7tm

Related

The G1 and "touch" Surface Area

can the G1 calculate surface area of a point touching it? or would it be possible to do that? it seems like it could work, but i'm not sure lol or else i wouldn't be asking this.
the reason i'm asking this is, we can make apps that emulate "pressure" so if someone barely taps the phone, it will have less surface area, and if someone presses the phone hard, it will have more surface area, there could be A LOT of things done with it
Don't see why not being it has been shown to be able to handle multi-touch. I agree though... would have many possible applications
yeah it could be used for games and such where u could see how fast you can match the weight on a weighing scale of some sort. i'm just saying it should be easy since we've seen multitouch on the phone. this would have an extra benefit over the iphone.
People are always asking for scales on touch screen devices and never get them.
Or finger painting with pressure driven line width or opacity!
Lieu10ant said:
yeah it could be used for games and such where u could see how fast you can match the weight on a weighing scale of some sort. i'm just saying it should be easy since we've seen multitouch on the phone. this would have an extra benefit over the iphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The scale idea wouldn't work on a capacitive screen. The sensor detects the area being touched and then approximates the center. The idea of a "pressure sensor" would have to adjust based on variances from the initial contact. My thumb would make a much bigger initial contact than my pinkey, that doesn't mean I'd be pushing any harder.
but it is basically inferred that everyone will be using their thumbs for these types of apps so it wouldn't matter. but HEY guess what? its basically proven that the G1 CAN infact determine "pressure"!! i've had this app for a while now, but i just recently opened it up again to mess with it, and to my surprise, i noticed that the app could tell how much "pressure" i was puttin on the screen. now i dont know if its actual pressure its calculating, or if its the surface area it is calculating, but it sure as hell knows the difference between a light, medium, and hard press.
the app is called BouncingBall in the games section (it would definately be the last place i would see a pressure sensitive app lol) it may seem like such a dull app (no offence) but it really is a great concept. try it out. you just click the screen, and a ball appears where you tapped the screen, and depending on how hard you tap the screen, the size of the balls differentiate. and i know it isn't a "how long you held the screen" type of thing, because i pressed the screen pretty hard a couple times very quickly. like a quick hard jab with my thumb lol. and the ball that was created was large. but anyways, test it out.
I'm not sure if pressure data is made available/enabled in Android, but the synaptics touchscreen and driver definitely do support pressure detection. Check out the driver in git:
http://android.git.kernel.org/?p=ke...drivers/input/touchscreen/synaptics_i2c_rmi.c
and search for ABS_PRESSURE. Technically it's a misnomer as capacitive sensors don't deform or directly measure pressure in any way. "Pressure" is actually the change in capacitance as a finger (or any other object) approaches the touchscreen. It is used by the driver to determine thresholds for which the touchscreen should signal the system finger_down and finger_up events. Since no contact is needed to measure a capacitance change, the sensor may actually report a change in "pressure" even before the finger has touched the screen.
Still, I don't think this would be a very good idea for use as a user input. One reason is that everyone's physiology is different. My thumb lightly touching the screen may give a value of 10, whereas your thumb lightly touching the screen could give a value of 20. Another reason is that I don't think it would be very wise to encourage users to be liberally applying pressure to the screen.

[MOD] A700 Heat & a Viable Solution!!!

UPDATE:
I wish I'd done some temperature benchmarking beforehand, but instead sourced the community to help out. Check out the various results on XDA... there are also results from two TF700 owners (in Europe) who were gracious enough to help me out.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28051518
First, it seems clear that my mod really didn't mitigate the heat issue enough... so don't bother.
Second, comparing the numbers between other A700's and the TF700... well, I'll let you draw your own conclusion on that one. :-(
---
Hi all,
As many of you have experienced, the A700 can get very hot under certain conditions. Mine got extremely hot to the touch after just an hour of gaming (Heavy Gunner, NFL Flick QB, and Cut the Rope), and crashed 2 or 3 times.
Well I decided to do something about it. Reading through the Service Guide (thank you paugustin!!!) & A700 teardown photos from another site, I came to some conclusions. First, from the looks of things, the back panel has some kind of metal plate lining, and 3 "pads" that closed the gap between the metal plate and several surfaces of the mainboard. My hope was that these pads were not simply foam pads but were actual thermal pads. I guessed that a bit of thermal paste might help the efficiency of those thermal pads... and if I got really ambitious, I could replace the thermal pads with larger ones (and paste those too).
Service Guide:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1716922
I followed the instructions in the Service Guide & opened up my A700 earlier tonight. I'm pleased to report that as long as you take your time, it's super easy to open up.
And lo and behold, my conclusions were accurate... the back plate is copper and the pads were thermal pads!
Back Plate:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/um556g6vtl7y99e/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-30.jpg
MainBoard:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jka8gooiyqn9r2d/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-46.jpg
Closer Look @ the Thermal Pads:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j4e7wjfodwryk9/C360_2012-06-26-20-15-06.jpg
I took some CPU thermal paste I had lying around & dabbed some on:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvv99k3ghx73a00/C360_2012-06-26-20-17-24.jpg
Afterwards, I slapped everything back together, fired up NFL Flick QB and played for a half hour. I'm pleased to report that the A700 got warm but nowhere near as hot as it did in my prior gaming session. The "level of warmth" was what I'd consider mildly warm, comparable to my fiancee's iPad3, so definitely within reasonable tolerances.
I still intend to put the A700 through some more intense gaming tomorrow, but I wanted to write this post up and share it with everyone first. Hope folks find this useful and insightful!
Nice discovery, but yikes! Thermal grease is meant to go on in a translucently thin layer or it ends up having the opposite effect! If you put that much between a CPU and it's cooler, you'd kill the CPU! :S
superawesome!
Yet still i'd like to wait for more people to evaluate the hardwaremodding before i go in there myself.
Still, kudos to you. :good:
FloatingFatMan said:
Nice discovery, but yikes! Thermal grease is meant to go on in a translucently thin layer or it ends up having the opposite effect! If you put that much between a CPU and it's cooler, you'd kill the CPU! :S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except in this case, the thermal grease isn't going up directly against the CPU... it's going up against a thermal pad & large metal plate that is covering the entire mainboard.
Additionally, unlike a heatsink & CPU which are fitted together tightly, the back panel of the A700 & thermal pads do not contact anywhere near as tight to the mainboard plate. I fitted the two halves together, then pulled them apart again, to see how much the paste really spread out. This way I could better gauge how tight the contact was & remove any excess that got squished out. However, not much paste really did, telling me that the compression between the two isn't that great. That is why I'm toying with the idea of replacing the thermal pads entirely.
Hey, good stuff. Keep us in the loop on this....
Thicker thermal pads might be in order, or a better paste job under the plate on the CPU/GPU...
Bigger pads to spread the heat out more since the back looks to be one copper heat sink..
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g8/c487/list/p1/Thermal-Thermal_Pads_Tape.html
Beknatok said:
Hi all,
As many of you have experienced, the A700 can get very hot under certain conditions. Mine got extremely hot to the touch after just an hour of gaming (Heavy Gunner, NFL Flick QB, and Cut the Rope), and crashed 2 or 3 times.
Well I decided to do something about it. Reading through the Service Guide (thank you paugustin!!!) & A700 teardown photos from another site, I came to some conclusions. First, from the looks of things, the back panel has some kind of metal plate lining, and 3 "pads" that closed the gap between the metal plate and several surfaces of the mainboard. My hope was that these pads were not simply foam pads but were actual thermal pads. I guessed that a bit of thermal paste might help the efficiency of those thermal pads... and if I got really ambitious, I could replace the thermal pads with larger ones (and paste those too).
Service Guide:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1716922
I followed the instructions in the Service Guide & opened up my A700 earlier tonight. I'm pleased to report that as long as you take your time, it's super easy to open up.
And lo and behold, my conclusions were accurate... the back plate is copper and the pads were thermal pads!
Back Plate:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/um556g6vtl7y99e/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-30.jpg
MainBoard:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jka8gooiyqn9r2d/C360_2012-06-26-20-14-46.jpg
Closer Look @ the Thermal Pads:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j4e7wjfodwryk9/C360_2012-06-26-20-15-06.jpg
I took some CPU thermal paste I had lying around & dabbed some on:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvv99k3ghx73a00/C360_2012-06-26-20-17-24.jpg
Afterwards, I slapped everything back together, fired up NFL Flick QB and played for a half hour. I'm pleased to report that the A700 got warm but nowhere near as hot as it did in my prior gaming session. The "level of warmth" was what I'd consider mildly warm, comparable to my fiancee's iPad3, so definitely within reasonable tolerances.
I still intend to put the A700 through some more intense gaming tomorrow, but I wanted to write this post up and share it with everyone first. Hope folks find this useful and insightful!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fantastic for the XDA community, but the average buyer will be like the cheesey pop group Power Station and will "Feel the heat".
rushless said:
Fantastic for the XDA community, but the average buyer will be like the cheesey pop group Power Station and will "Feel the heat".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then be happy that you're amongst the enlightened!
CAUTION!!!!!
OK maybe that's a bit strong, but as an engineer I have to question the logic employed.
First of all, the heat generated by the CPU, battery, etc. must exit the device. ALL OF IT!
Temperature of the back plate is determined by two factors alone: thermal resistance (e.g. insulation, heat pipes, air flow, fins, etc.) and the amount of heat transfer. I'm serious!
It appears that you have done nothing to affect the thermal resistance between the back plate and the air (e.g. adding cooling fins or increasing air flow). Therefore if your back plate temperature has decreased (and the air temp stayed the same), then we would conclude that heat transfer between the back plate and the air has DECREASED.
If hea
If heat transfer from the plate to the air has decreased, then that means the heat transfer from the CPU etc. to the plate must have decreased as well!
My guess is that your thermal paste is producing a higher thermal resistance, as predicted by FFM! And it's deceptive because it's insulating the back plate from the CPU etc.
So where's the heat going? (I hear myself asking... myself.)
My guess is that it's dissipating through the tablet, getting distributed and absorbed and ultimately emitted more uniformly from the device. This would raise the internal temperature of the device, including the CPU! Hence the CAUTION!!!!!
Your idea could have some benefit, though, and here's how i see it playing out:
If you decrease the thermal resistance between the CPU and the back plate, then the CPU would be closer to the temperature of the back plate (i.e. lower). But the back plate temperature won't really change because you still have the same total heat coming through and the same thermal resistance with the air.
As for spreading the temperature across the back plate more, I'm not sure you can do it more effectively than the copper plate that's already there. Not without insulating the most direct heat transfer path!
yeoldeusrename said:
CAUTION!!!!!
OK maybe that's a bit strong, but as an engineer I have to question the logic employed.
First of all, the heat generated by the CPU, battery, etc. must exit the device. ALL OF IT!
Temperature of the back plate is determined by two factors alone: thermal resistance (e.g. insulation, heat pipes, air flow, fins, etc.) and the amount of heat transfer. I'm serious!
It appears that you have done nothing to affect the thermal resistance between the back plate and the air (e.g. adding cooling fins or increasing air flow). Therefore if your back plate temperature has decreased (and the air temp stayed the same), then we would conclude that heat transfer between the back plate and the air has DECREASED.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, I'm aware of this.
The exact problem I was attempting to mitigate, is the transfer of heat between the mainboard cover plate and the back panel copper plate. I was theorizing that the thermal pads being used were not fitted well, thus not functioning optimally as designed to begin with. As a result, not enough heat was being transfered to the back panel copper plate for proper dissipation.
So either heat is being transferred to the back copper plate more efficiently now and dissipating more effectively... or the opposite as you proposed.
However, if heat transfer has decreased, wouldn't heat buildup would still occur within the small area between the back panel & mainboard? While it wouldn't be absorbing the same amount of heat directly from the thermal pad, heat would still build up over time and that should still be noticable no matter what, right?
I'd also note that the BETTER solution would be to NOT combine thermal paste with the thermal pads, since as you point out, that can adversely affect thermal resistance.... but rather to replace the pads with better pads.
But I decided to be a guinea pig and try it out anyway.
Sorry I got distracted before posting my conclusion:
So my conclusion (prior to your latest comments) is that you can effectively lower the temperature of the CPU but not of the back plate. (unless you're insulating it from the CPU, which will spread the heat around and raise the temp of the internals!!!!).
I will consider your latest comments and repost!
The way I see it, the heat was not effectively transferred to the radiator. We have to remember that the case heat-up experienced by touch is not only the radiator, but the case itself heated by both the radiator and the air.
I'd assume that lack of crashes indicates smaller temperature of the CPU\GPU, as the heat is conducted more effectively by the paste to the radiator and dissipates evenly, instead of building up in one place and transferred to the case by air.
It's times like this, that highlights the one minor missing flaw of the A700... there's no bloody temperature sensors that we can poll!!!
*bashes head against desk*
So unfortunately, all findings are really subjective unless yeoldeusrename's conclusions are correct and mine are totally incorrect, and my A700 decides to fry itself.
Beknatok said:
It's times like this, that highlights the one minor missing flaw of the A700... there's no bloody temperature sensors that we can poll!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, i wouldn't be that sure. The A510 has them (at least separately for cpu and battery) and can be read by certain apps from the store. (E.g system tuner and battery monitor widget) so i would guess the A700 has them too.
Perhaps that helps
Sent from my A510 using xda app-developers app
mearoth said:
Well, i wouldn't be that sure. The A510 has them (at least separately for cpu and battery) and can be read by certain apps from the store. (E.g system tuner and battery monitor widget) so i would guess the A700 has them too.
Perhaps that helps
Sent from my A510 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The two apps I tried, didn't show anything for temperature, but I just grabbed system tuner & it does register cpu temp! Yay! Will explore the app further to figure out how to record history for accurate metrics. Thanks for the hint.
Sent from my A700 using Tapatalk 2
Beginning to wonder if the heat and touch issues are why the 700 is priced the exact same as the 510. Nothing else apparently makes sense.
Anyone who is tracking this thread & wouldn't mind helping gather some additional data, please check out this thread:
CPU Temp Benchmarking - Request for Help
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=28009068
Thanks!!!
I think I'm going to look into creating a heat shield to place against the rear cover.
2 to 3 inches across and 4 down on the right side should do it.
This is a great tablet otherwise and don't want to give up on it just yet.
Besides the Asus sound system is inferior.

[Q] Tablet heating?

Hi I had purchased a Galaxy Note 10.1 recently and have been playing around with it. A concern I had was that on the upper left backside of the device, below the silver plate on the white surface, the device feels warm compared to other areas of the tablet when using any apps. Is this normal or not?
m.sfm said:
Hi I had purchased a Galaxy Note 10.1 recently and have been playing around with it. A concern I had was that on the upper left backside of the device, below the silver plate on the white surface, the device feels warm compared to other areas of the tablet when using any apps. Is this normal or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is close to the cpu same on mine
Hi erica, how long have you had your tablet? Has it ever really bothered you too?
"Feeling warm" is normal for anything with a modern CPU inside it. If you put your hand directly on the CPU (or the heatsink covering it) in a desktop or laptop computer you may burn your hand since it can reach huge temperatures of 60 degrees plus.
This review shows the Galaxy Note 10.1 to reach 45.9 C on one corner of the back when under maximum load:
The Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 had no issues regarding temperature. Even after long periods of full utilization during our stress test, the Galaxy Note did not become excessively warm. While the upper left corner exhibited slight hot spots on both the front and back side with temperatures of 45.9 degrees Celsius (115.6 degrees Fahrenheit), this temperature is still rather trivial considering the fact that our test was conducted on a hot summer day. During daily use, the surface temperatures of the tablet remained comfortably cool and under 33 degrees Celsius (91 degrees Fahrenheit) at every measurement location. The internal components showed no risk of overheating in any case and even the AC adapter barely warmed up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Samsung-Galaxy-Note-10-1-GT-N8010-Tablet.80901.0.html
Since it's plastic, that'll never feel "hot", just warm.
You should rarely reach maximum load if you use well-behaved apps, though some games will tax it a bit. It's actually pretty amazing what processor power can be achieved in this thing without getting too hot or requiring a fan, thanks to the ARM architecture.
MercuryStar said:
"Feeling warm" is normal for anything with a modern CPU inside it. If you put your hand directly on the CPU (or the heatsink covering it) in a desktop or laptop computer you may burn your hand since it can reach huge temperatures of 60 degrees plus.
This review shows the Galaxy Note 10.1 to reach 45.9 C on one corner of the back when under maximum load:
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Samsung-Galaxy-Note-10-1-GT-N8010-Tablet.80901.0.html
Since it's plastic, that'll never feel "hot", just warm.
You should rarely reach maximum load if you use well-behaved apps, though some games will tax it a bit. It's actually pretty amazing what processor power can be achieved in this thing without getting too hot or requiring a fan, thanks to the ARM architecture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if the tablet reaches 52 C, thats alright? I really don't know specifics like this at all but would a tablet such as the asus tf700 feel the same way? I mean heat wise on a everyday medium load?
They actually get considerably warm being they are made out of aluminum. I had the tf201 and 700. It's not too hot though but you notice it
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda app-developers app
I am using system tuner to see the cpu temperature and I am getting high as 55 C. So I am in the green right? What is the highest the temperature can be and my tablet can still have a good lifespan?
A few things:
1. When I pointed out the review of this device that said it got to 45.9 degrees, that's the surface of the outside of the case. That's different to the CPU temperature, which will invariably be hotter.
2. Tools that report CPU temperature are invariably misleading. There are so many different ways to measure it that mean different things and sensors can be calibrated differently on different devices. I'd say leave it up to the engineers that built the tablet and trust that they built it to tolerate any heat it generates, which they will have had to.
3. Aluminium of the TF201 won't be getting warmer because it's aluminium, it'll just *feel* warmer because it's aluminium - even if it were the same temperature. It conducts heat to your body more efficiently as a metal. As a result, the case itself will actually help cool the tablet better, but don't go assuming this makes aluminium cases better - the engineers would have accounted for this in their thermal design, and we're not talking about all that much heat here anyway.
At any rate, this tablet doesn't get hot enough to worry about - far, far from it. The amount of warmth you feel is normal and in a tablet like this will never get close to approaching the heat required to reduce the CPU's life (unless something goes terribly wrong or you put it in an oven or something). It's not even worth worrying about. I'd worry more than in 3-5 years' time the battery capacity will have deteriorated to the point where it'll give you noticeably less battery life - because that will happen. If you're going to worry about overheating, worry about your laptop instead. If its little fan stops, is blocked or fills with dust, it is actually *quite likely* to overheat the CPU eventually - not that you're likely to notice, as the CPU will just throttle down.
Thanks for the useful info, now do i just delete this thread?
m.sfm said:
Thanks for the useful info, now do i just delete this thread?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why deny other people the chance to read these comments or contribute to the conversation? I myself put a fair bit of effort into my own comment!
m.sfm said:
Thanks for the useful info, now do i just delete this thread?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No but you can put solved in title so it can help future members.
Sent from my GT-N8013 using xda app-developers app

Waterproff test

If test look like the same for me like at this vid (>10post ;/ just post it on yt Sony Xperia Z3 common waterproofing defect in wrist strap hole) it mean i have untight xperia z3 ? If yes what i can do then? should i send it to service? (i don't put my phone to the water yet) 988->995 and slowly falling to 998 (with same preasure)
Zaiid said:
If test look like the same for me like at this vid (>10post ;/ just post it on yt Sony Xperia Z3 common waterproofing defect in wrist strap hole) it mean i have untight xperia z3 ? If yes what i can do then? should i send it to service? (i don't put my phone to the water yet) 988->995 and slowly falling to 998 (with same preasure)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The fact that some freak thinks he can use a barometer to prove that his phone isn't waterproof doesn't make this a "common defect". I know nothing about physics, still I promise you that this test has zero meaning.
Now you can wait until you get some responses like "I would be worried, better send it in" and then you can wait some month to get the same phone back, or you just relax and use your phone. Good luck.
android404 said:
The fact that some freak thinks he can use a barometer to prove that his phone isn't waterproof doesn't make this a "common defect". I know nothing about physics, still I promise you that this test has zero meaning.
Now you can wait until you get some responses like "I would be worried, better send it in" and then you can wait some month to get the same phone back, or you just relax and use your phone. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It actually has a perfect physics explanation and not just Voodoo science. The barometer is a pressure sensor inside your phone and is very sensitive. If you put external pressure on your phone, either because of weather change, altitude change, or putting it in a pressure chamber, the sensor will read that change. When you press on the screen (gently) with some flaps open you won't see any change in pressure (the air that is "squeezed" by your pressing on the screen has a way out). If you close the flaps and the phone is water / air tight, then even a small pressure on the screen can "squeeze" the air inside, effectively increasing the pressure reading. You can try it with your phone and you'll see the difference.
In terms of using the phone vs returning, that depends if you plan to use it underwater or not. If the phone is not perfectly water tight it would still be usable under wet conditions, but going for a swim with the phone is highly likely to result in a dead phone. Before you say something like "why would you swim with your phone", it's a personal choice. Swimming with the phone is part of Sony's advertising and spec, so the phone should handle it.
tsachi said:
It actually has a perfect physics explanation and not just Voodoo science. The barometer is a pressure sensor inside your phone and is very sensitive. If you put external pressure on your phone, either because of weather change, altitude change, or putting it in a pressure chamber, the sensor will read that change. When you press on the screen (gently) with some flaps open you won't see any change in pressure (the air that is "squeezed" by your pressing on the screen has a way out). If you close the flaps and the phone is water / air tight, then even a small pressure on the screen can "squeeze" the air inside, effectively increasing the pressure reading. You can try it with your phone and you'll see the difference.
In terms of using the phone vs returning, that depends if you plan to use it underwater or not. If the phone is not perfectly water tight it would still be usable under wet conditions, but going for a swim with the phone is highly likely to result in a dead phone. Before you say something like "why would you swim with your phone", it's a personal choice. Swimming with the phone is part of Sony's advertising and spec, so the phone should handle it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meaning: no phone that is not waterproof (airtight) can use a barometer. Bad news for iPhone six and dozens of android devices and their owners. Right?
I'd like to know if this is just a new device panic trend like bend gate
I tried the barometer test and I can cover the lanyard hole and see the same results. Number rises and if the hole isn't covered by my finger the number drops back down.
Pretty bummed if it's really a defect. I don't want to have to pay 175$ to t-mobile because an advertised feature is broken..
Was looking forward to swimming and submerging my xperia for the past 2 months.. Haven't even had the phone for a full week
Sent from my D6616 using XDA Free mobile app

Fix Your Broken/Stuck Accelorometer

I've had a stuck accelerometer problem with phones, but also with my DJI Phantom drone. This problem manifests itself as:
- can't switch or rotate from portrait mode to landscape correctly
- camera won't rotate to landscape
- terrible VR performance, drifting
- bad gaming performance
- sensor readings way off
You're not going to believe the solution that has worked for me in both cases: you gotta bash it!!
Yep, your silicon-based accelerometers have fingers that can deflect with G forces, but when they get a big impact, they can get stuck at the extreme bent side. You probably dropped your phone recently, right?? Well, you can probably fix it by dropping it again in exactly the right way. It's like Fred Flintstone's amnesia.
You'll need to determine which side to drop it onto, and then drop it onto that side HARD onto a hard surface. You don't need to let it go, you kind of slam it with your hand. Do it at your own risk, of course, because you might break some other component!
Here's which side to whack it. For god sakes, don't just whack it randomly.
First, you'll need an accelerometer app. Install it and run it in metric mode. Set your phone on the table. Have a look at your values for X, Y, and Z. Two should be at near 0 and Z should be around 10 m/ss. The 10 reading is the table holding your phone against the force of gravity at 10 m/ss!
One or more of your numbers will NOT be as I stated, and that's the stuck accelerometer. It will be pretty much stuck and hardly changing at all, and it will be weirdly high, much greater than 10. ex: My X was at 167. (If you do not have one of your axis stuck on a very high number, you have a different problem, don't continue.)
If your X value is stuck sky high, hit the phone with the X+ (right) side onto the table
If your X value is a high number, but negative, hit the phone with the X- (left) side onto the table
If your Y value is stuck sky high, hit the phone with the Y+ (top) side onto the table
If your Y value is a high number, but negative, hit the phone with the Y- (bottom) side onto the table
If your Z value is stuck sky high, hit the phone with the Z+ (screen face) side onto the table (good luck to you)
If your Z value is a high number, but negative, hit the phone with the Z- (back) side onto the table
If you hit it sharply enough, you'll notice that the sensor is no longer stuck on the super high reading, and you're all fixed
Look on the bright side, it's not a drone. Since propellers etc get in the way of a table slam, I had to hit my $1200 drone - HARD - with a rubber mallet when it had the same problem. But it worked!
I have a Redmi Note 8 pro and the accelerometer was not working. The Y and Z axis were stuck at high negitive values. I was very frustrated as the camera app took pictures up side down. After searching the internet for a gud hour , I found this solution. I tried it and it worked like a charm. I had to hit my phone on my hand for both -Y and -Z axis. After both directional hits, the accelerometer sprung into action and everything worked smoothly.
Thank you so much. This solved my problem like a charm. This really worked.
Moved from Android Drones, because as the original poster tells me, this applies generally to devices with Accelorometers.
Mike
I still can't believe that it worked like it did. The Z axis on my Redmi Note 7's accelerometer was stuck, and it insta working again after throwing my phone on the floor. This is probably the least thing I would do (willingly) and worked like a charm. Thank you very much.
This post saved me. Almost wiped my Redmi Note 8 Pro. Worked fine just throwing it on the floor LMAO. Nothing like an armor case to protect hahahaha
MY HERO. the pockets in my sweats aren't deep enough so my phone kept falling out and must have konked itself into a hung accelerometer. A few drops on the bottom fixed a stuck negative Y axis. happy day!

Categories

Resources