Hi Everyone,
This is my first time posting as I am normally pretty good at googling solutions. But this time I am pretty stumped!
I brought an Nexus S i9023 and the speaker on it was faulty. It worked but it hissed and popped and was extremely quiet. Sounded like a dodgy connection more than anything. If you put pressure in the right place it would work for a few seconds.
Hence I decided to go and buy a replacement. I brought the replacement speaker with a new lead on it too from Aliexpress.
It arrived promptly and well packaged. It was obviously brand new too as the flex had not been bent.
I fitted this today but it doesn't work. nothing not a sound.
I put the old one back in and low and behold its hissing and making noises as per usual.
Can anyone tell me if I am missing anything here? Its definitely the right part, It fitted perfectly too.
Massively stumped and if anyone could suggest anything it would be greatly appreciated.
Fastraxs
Cannot think of anything else than to refit the new one and double check the connections...
if you've got a multimeter, measure the resistance (Ohms) across the terminals and compare to the old one, it should give you
a reading of a few Ohms - measure the readings with the speakers not connected to the board - that way you can deduce
if the "new" speaker is in fact good or not
gunner49 said:
Cannot think of anything else than to refit the new one and double check the connections...
if you've got a multimeter, measure the resistance (Ohms) across the terminals and compare to the old one, it should give you
a reading of a few Ohms - measure the readings with the speakers not connected to the board - that way you can deduce
if the "new" speaker is in fact good or not
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the advice, my situation has gone from bad to considerably worse! So, I had the original which was quiet making funny noises and then the new replacement which wasn't doing anything. So I decided that perhaps it was just the speaker and decided to solder the new speaker to the old flex and see if I was in business.... exactly the same issue sound was working but very quiet and fading in and out and hissing etc. Hence I thought right then, got this one sorted its the flex. Back to the iron, I soldered the original speaker which I knew was working to the new flex, but still no sound tried a few times as I was worried that the connection from the new flex to the speaker wasn't quite solid enough.
This is where things got....well....rather gutting! The phone isn't turning on anymore. I get the screen light up for a split second, then go dark again. Tried to do all the usual things such as removing battery, tried to get it into boot mode (holding sound up and power), I get nothing when plugged into pc, nothing when plugged into the charger. I am worried that when soldering the speaker I could have bridged the positive and negative terminals and hence made it short. Would this blow my motherboard up? Is that even possible?
I am now at a complete loss what to do now, and before I do any more damage, I thought I would consult the experts. I should also say that it is completely stock and hasn't been rooted or anything along those lines.
Any help, advice, suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Again thank you gunner for your advice it is greatly appreciated, but my situation is rather worse now and I think I have a rather expensive paperweight on my hands.
I'm sorry things have gone to worse mate I assume you've been doing the soldering with no power to the phone!?
If you're suspecting you may have shorted the speaker, I think its a good idea to check that! I suggest to desolder, clean and resolder.
Put some soldering flux if you have any as those little flex things are sometimes a pain to get them attached.
I'm not familiar with the NS circuitry but I reckon a shorted speaker would not result in blowing the whole board! Before assembling
everything back again, check whether there are any tiny bits of solder that may have stayed on the board or to the components.
Clean around the soldered area carefully.
Also, you might want to check if the phone powers up with no speaker attached at all. You might be having another issue as to why its
not turning on.
Good luck and hope you can have it back up and running again mate!
Well I have been a owner of a LG Nexus 5 for the past (almost) 2 years now, in fact I am coming to the end of my contract very soon and will be able to either goto another company or get a new phone.
Anyways, sometime ago I experienced a problem with my microphone and external speakers not working, or at at least some of the time... After a bit of research online I found out my problem was related to a connection inside the phone that connected the bottom assembly to the main board at the top of the phone. It required me to remove the back panel and a few screws to remove the plastic cover, but the poster suggested putting some tape on top of that connection to hold it down more firmly to the socket it connected too. So I did this. I put some black tap (electrical tape cut to fit.) on top and then assembled the phone again. Viola, It worked!
Well, a short time after I decided that I wanted to update my phone from stock kitkat (4.4.4). Always been curious about custom ROMs and gave Cyanogenmod a try. Not only that I got bold and tried the nightly releases of the new marshmellow update. After some time I started experiencing things not working, like the camera, and a lot of freezing, hang ups and random reboots (not so much the reboots as the constant freezing). Often I couldn't get anything on the screen or the phone to respond from a locked state and when I did, often the phone would lag so much, that doing anything would take a long time and proved to be impossible.
I started thinking it was the nightly releases as the source of my problem and just kind of shrugged it off and figured "they will eventually fix the problem". I kept this thinking for quite some time. But it occurred too me one day that something else was causing the issue I was facing for the simple fact that the lag started showing up in the recovery mode (also custom) and a lot of times would continue to show up after I rebooted my phone. Hence, would rule out any 'software' issues I was facing.
I began to think that my problem was hardware. Maybe it was just time for a new phone. But still months away from the end of my contract, this meant I would have to pay off the 'problematic' phone first before getting a new one. I really didn't like that idea. So while looking into this problem, in a last ditch effort, I opened my phone again. Dunno why but I also decided to get rid of the tap on the connection I tried to fix before... I popped off the connection there and had a look at it. It didn't seem damaged in any way nor did the socket. Strange as it was I put that connect back in the socket and put the cover plate back on making sure not to torque the screws and assembled everything back up....
Now the mic and ext speakers work just fine and the phone is working like I just opened the box and took it out for the first time. And I have not once seen any problems... I understand what's happening here... still just wanted to share that for it was definitely weird or what?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0pUNVcVRCJ7MThMc0NHLUNkSEU
Sorry about the link, only way I can upload an image.
Just so there is no confusion... an image of the effected area, inside the phone. The arrow points to the connector and more importantly the area of the connector that seems damaged. If I press lightly where the arrow is pointing on this image, the assemable at the bottom (speaker/mic) will work, indicating a loose connection. Although after visual inspection, I cannot see any damage to connector or the socket. I suppose the only way to really "fix" the issue is to order a new part. As stated previously, already tried tape on the socket to help hold it down, but that seem to cause just as many issues with the phone performance. Any other suggestions?
When ordering a replacement part, you need to be careful because there was another XDA member replaced the same part with a cheap 3rd party solution and the phone would not charge until he replaced it with an oem part.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/to-buy-usb-charging-port-flex-cable-t3314357
Does anyone else have issues with there ext. speaker and mic not working?
An update on the phone;
back to square one. My ext speaker and mic will not work. And that socket has something to do with the LCD connection on the screen as it will black out if just the right area on the back of the phone is pressed. Only way to revive the phone is to long-press the power button for a reboot. Then will come up fine but speaker and mic still do not work.
audit13 said:
When ordering a replacement part, you need to be careful because there was another XDA member replaced the same part with a cheap 3rd party solution and the phone would not charge until he replaced it with an oem part.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/to-buy-usb-charging-port-flex-cable-t3314357
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that sounds pretty low level tactics of LG... just shameful really, but not hard to believe these days...
Quite honestly, I am just going to replace the phone. Think I got a pretty good run out of it and think its pretty well time for an upgrade. Anyway, for the reason I got the phone, it wont matter the speaker and mic don't work. Just going to use it for development and it will be a good test device.
Oh an this post is related to this thread so I thought I would link it for it may help someone else facing similar problems....
https://forum.cyanogenmod.org/topic/125227-nightly-cm13-releases-make-my-nexus-5-very-slow/
I'm not sure that LG had anything to do with the low-quality replacement parts.
If I were you, look for a n5 with a smashed screen that is suitable for parts.
audit13 said:
I'm not sure that LG had anything to do with the low-quality replacement parts.
If I were you, look for a n5 with a smashed screen that is suitable for parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, except the iphone is the most popular phone around here ... find it pretty hard to find one, been looking. But thanks.
I have seen quite a few busted n5 phones in Toronto. I have managed to get working phones with a smashed screen for as little as $30 which is rare for Toronto. Average I pay is $40 to $50. For this price, I either use the phone for parts in several phones or I get third part screen from Aliexpress for around $40 CAD.
I just want to update this as well...
I am fairly certain (now thinking about causes) its not really a design flaw, but more so because I frequently sat on my phone when it was in my back pocket...
audit13 said:
When ordering a replacement part, you need to be careful because there was another XDA member replaced the same part with a cheap 3rd party solution and the phone would not charge until he replaced it with an oem part.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/to-buy-usb-charging-port-flex-cable-t3314357
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was not me but I had that same experience. Replaced with a cheap oem and it didn't charge after that.
I found out why. The charger usb socket was not connected to anything ! Unbelievable! It lacked the black plastic backing for that part of the cable to connect to.
Hi,
I replaced the screen of my brother's Nexus 5 and even so the display works perfectly we seem to have destroyed a component.
I managed to connect the device to lte/3g/2g networks (see photo in the attachment) and sometimes a few packets are even successfully transmitted but that's an exception. Usually it is not even possible to load a website within a reasonable amount of time..
Wifi works.
Stock and cm13-caf firmware show the same behavior.
Like shown in the photo the phone is successfully connected to a 4g/lte network.
Phone calls on a 2g-network work.
Any ideas to which component we have to replace? Or any hints on what could give more information about the actual issue?
Thanks in advance!
Best Regards
Michael
Does the original screen still work? If it does, you could try moving everything back to see if that makes a difference.
When you replaced the screen, did you use a where the LCD/frame/glass were pre-assembled?
Thanks for your response.
I had two replacement displays and noticed the same issues with both of them.
(I bought a cheap one first from ebay which had multiple touch screen issues and only after that bought a way more expensive original replacement unit.)
Hmm, hopefully, it is not a motherboard issue. I would suggest trying the old screen is possible.
Another part that may affect signal would be the USB flex port cable. The other pieces that attach to the motherboard are the camera, headphone jack, USB charging/data cable, and battery.
We completely destroyed the old display unit after removing all other components except for the battery. This made it easier to bend it and remove the battery without damaging its enclosing.
I'm afraid it might be the mainboard but was hoping for a cheaper solution . The usb board is still a possibility since it routes a quite a few signals between components.... Are there some schematics of the device available online?
Haven't seen any schematics.
I guess you didn't use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before using a spudger to remove the battery.
Examine the USB flex cable to see if there are any breaks.
If you get a phone with a smashed screen and working internals, you should be able to get the phone working.
I wasn't sure if heating up the battery is a good idea and since the old screen has already been damaged I really didn't care if it's even more so...
Heating the battery is fine as long as you keep moving the hair dryer around. The battery just needs to get warm, not hot. Also, you would heat it from the front of the phone, not the back.
I bought a Nexus 5 with a damaged display unit online and used its mainboard and antenna cables to fix my unit. Everything works again. Seems to have been something on the mainboard but I have no idea which component exactly.
Thanks for updating the thread with your solution.
[Q&A] WiFi stuck on turning on; MAC 02:00:00:00:00:00; G2 G3 G4 G5 Nexus5 Nexus 7 etc
Hi!
If you are reading this now, you are probably one of the unlucky fellows who's WiFi (and Bluetooth) stopped functioning, and if so, you are probably deperately searching for a solution/fix. I might have something for you, but first:
*** DISCLAIMER/WARNING ***
You yourself are exclusively responsible for whatever may (or may not) happen to your mobile device, to yourself or others. I am only giving hints/advices here that *MAY* help, but I will not take any responsability, nor will I provide any support, in absolutely *ANY CASE*, including, but not limited to: your problem not being solved or/and your mobile device becoming partially or completely broken. Let me be very clear: If you do anything to your device rendering it useless, destroying it, seriously or fataly injuring you or others, and then come blaming me or/and cry for help, I will point my index finger at you and laugh at you. Period.
If you are a impatient person and want to get straight to the point, jump right to section 6.
Table of Contents
0. Foreword
1. Description of the problem
2. Urgent advice
3. Things that didn't work
4. There is little hope
5. My most obvious advice
6. LET'S GET SERIOUS!
6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape
6.b Refrigerator / Freezer
6.c Oven
0. Foreword
Two or three months ago, one fine morning, the WiFi/BT of my LG G2 suddenly stopped working. Initially I thought this would be only one stupid annoying minor thingy, that I’d be able to solve it fast. I was wrong.
1. Description of the problem
When turning on the WiFi, it would just stay in "Turning on..." forever. Similar thing for Bluetooth: It would stay on for a few seconds and then turn itself off again after. (But then, who needs Bluetooth anyway, WiFi ist probably 100 times more important...). I have thoroughly searched the internet, and I found quite some videos with exactly the same problem (remove the two blanks from the links to watch):
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=fRGnQz1zUmw
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=4W8YJMDFM88
h ttp://w ww.dailymotion.com/video/x2cuyjt_nexus-5-turning-wifi-on-frozen-problem_tech
2. Urgent advice
I want to prevent you from wasting countless hours searching for a solution - I wasted so much of my time already, no need for you to repeat that. Therefore: *Please* be aware that there is a VERY HIGH PROBABILITY that this issue is being caused by a hardware defect. I can not speak for all devices of course, but keep in mind that the main reason I wasted so much time, was me beliving it was some software issue! See the next section for a glimpse of stuff I have tried without any success:
3. Things that *DIDN'T* work
01. Restarting WiFi/Bluetooth several times
02. Rebooting the phone
03. Turning airplane mode on/off several times
04. Slapping/hitting the phone (this was indeed suggested in a forum)
05. Using WiFi-Fixer apps
06. Resetting to factory settings
07. Upgrading to newest Android version
08. Fully drained the battery and left it uncharged for several hours
(Rooted the phone)
09. Deleting the /data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
10. Deleting the whole /data/misc/wifi folder
11. Creating a file named ".bdaddr" in /persist/bluetooth containing a MAC-Address in hexadecimal format
12. Creating a file named ".macaddr" in /persist/wifi containing a MAC-Address in hexadecimal format
13. Flashing several custom ROMs to it (CyanogenMod, ParanoidAndroid, ...)
14. Going back to stock ROM
15. etc. etc. etc.
16. Several combinations and permutations of the above
4. There is little hope
Again, as the cause of the problem is most likely a hardware issue, I don't recommend going through all the steps as described in the previous section; however, though none of the steps worked for me, this doesn't mean that none won't work for you neither; you might be luckier than I was. In that case, enjoy your restored WiFi and be happy.
5. My most obvious advice
You need to replace the motherboard (main board) of your device.
Honestly, if you can afford it and it doesn't cause too many inconveniences to you, you'll be better off by simply buying a new device. If you don't want to buy a new device, send it in for repairs. If you don't want to do that as well, you'll have to fallback to a DIY solution:
I. Buy a new main board for your device. Be careful to get exactly the right component for your specific model. If you dont find any shop selling those, there are plenty of individuals out there that own devices with broken displays. You dont need the displays, you need the motherboard. Buy one such broken device, and you'll have your main board replacement.
II. Replace your main board or let someone else do it for you
Continues below.
continuation
6. LET'S GET SERIOUS!
If you are reading this, you either didn't read or you decided not to follow my most obvious advice in section 5. So be it. If you want to carry on from here, be sure to re-read my disclaimer at the top of my post.
There are 3 DIY possible fixes for the WiFi problem - none is guaranteed. I will describe them from the most harmless to the most kamikaze/deadliest. All of them will require you to open your device; if you are not careful and damage any of the components inside, you will end up with a worse device than before - but hey, don't say I didn't warn you.
At this point we assume that the cause of the problem is a faulty solder joint of your WiFi IC. The goal is to try to restore that solder joint. To do that, you will have to:
I. Open your device
II. Find your main board and separate it from all connected plugs
III. Find / identify the WiFi IC chip on the main board. I recommend searching for a service manual for your device, or/and searching for a disassembly video for your device; you need to know which one of the chips on the main board is the WiFi one.
Once you have identified your WiFi chip, you have 3 options, which you may combine with each other, but I recommend to try them out one-by-one as follows:
6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape
You need to make sure that your WiFi chip is pressed against the main board (ideally, this ensures the broken contacts touch each other, solving the problem). The best way to achieve this, is to attach a series of tape strips on the top of the WiFi chip, causing it to be pressed against the main board by the surrounding cover/hull once you reassemble/close the device. The tape strips are just a suggestion, do whatever you find convenient as long as you ensure that the chip is pushed against the board at all times.
This method may solve the WiFi problem already. When you turn your device back on, give it some time (5-10 minutes) and reboot it a few times if the problem still persists. My own WiFi didn't function right away, but after a while it finally recovered - hurray!
6.b Refrigerator / Freezer
Instead of using the tape as described in 6.a, you may first try to put your motherboard in a fridge for a few hours/days. But make sure to put it there in a plastic bag, and avoid moisture as much as you can, specially when taking it out of the fridge. Make sure its completely dry before reassembling your device!
By the way, try the refrigerator option BEFORE you try the freezer option!
6.c Oven
If everything else fails, the oven might be your last chance. This is not a joke, but as you probably can assume, it is "All-In" i.e. highly risky. The theory behind this is that high temperature will cause defective solder joints to reflow, reconnecting and thus fixing the problem.
You should only try this as a matter of last ressort. Be warned that you may fully destroy your main board, and there is a high chance that you will. Also, you may cause serious injury to yourself or others. Make sure you make backups of your data first. DO NOT BAKE THE WHOLE DEVICE, ONLY THE MAIN BOARD. DO NOT BAKE THE BATTERY!!
If you are still reading:
I. pre-heat your oven to 385° Fahrenheit (196° Celsius)
II. put your main board in the oven, bake it there for 7 minutes
III. remove from the oven, let it cool down until every component of the board has room temperature
Finally, here is a video of a guy doing a similar thing, but with a heat gun:
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=A4n0j3uaS7E
Ok, this is all, I hope I could help you.
Good luck!
Summary
Hello all,
first of all, I want to thank brysclar and xbing6 for their valuable feedback! Thanks a lot guys! :good:
Now, in an effort to update this thread and in an effort of trying to summarize it in fewer words (my disclaimer above applies!):
- The described problem seems to affect mainly (all kinds of) LG devices
- The issue seems to be caused by a defective soldering of the Wi-Fi chip on the main board
- The defect seems to be induced by dropping or/and overheating the device; recharging the battery, big/long app or android updates or the flashing of custom roms could cause excessive heating
- brysclar pointed out that replacing the battery might solve the problem (I haven't tried this out myself, so I can neither deny nor confirm this)
- My recommended solution is 6.a - applying pressure on the Wi-Fi chip, pushing it against the main board, using tape stripes
- There is a video of a brasilean guy doing some similar, but using pieces of an old credit card instead of tape strips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag BUT PLEASE NOTE THAT HE IS APPLYING THE PRESSURE ON A RANDOM SPOT, NOT DIRECTLY TO THE WIFI CHIP! It *may* work for you, but if it doesn't, find/identify your Wi-Fi chip and apply the pressure there
- If everything else fails, and only as a matter of last ressort, you may try what I have written in 6.c
So... this thread has over 500 views, but not one single reply.
Guys... what has your experience been? Have you tried anything out from the posts above, and if so, what was the result? Did it help you? Do you recommend anything? Has something else, not written here, worked for you?
There are a lot of people out there having the same problem. It would be great if you could give any feedback, share anything that helps the community.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I honestly didn't see this post before. You really covered every detail very well. So far, returning my G3 to stock and replacing the battery has fixed it for me. Weird. I know. I did try 90% of the things on your "things that don't work" list and you are correct. They don't work.
wlanmac 02/00/00/00/00, Bluetooth is OK
Hey, i just got an LG LS990 with same Wifi issue and i'm ready to try so WITNESS ME!
Thanks for an amazing and detailed post lml
Simply awesome.
I have similar issue with my Nexus 5x. It is QCA6174 hw 3.2 chip, lspci does not detect this chip any more. I am going to do a little bit investigation from device driver (cnss) perspective. It enables one GPIO to provide power to this WiFi chip, I will try read back this GPIO status to see if it is enabled. I do not have the schematics, I do not know how to check if power is supplied to this wifi chip.
lspci used to show below:
$ ./lspci
00:00.0 PCI bridge: Airgo Networks Inc Device 0300 (rev ff)
01:00.0 Network controller: Atheros Communications Inc. Device 003e (rev ff) (this is qca6174)
If kernel driver investigation does not reveal anything helpful, I will ask other guys to replace the chip.
I thought it is because of vendor partition is accidentally wiped out, maybe it is unlikely.
---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:40 PM ----------
As Bluetooth can not be turned either, I am tending to think this is hardware related as well. As described previously, I will see if I can check that gpio status.
investigating
xbing6 said:
I have similar issue with my Nexus 5x.
(...)
I am going to do a little bit investigation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi xbing, and thank you for your feedback! :good:
I am really curious and looking forward to hear the results of your investigation! I believe that in your case, too, the Wi-Fi/BT chip is not being supplied correctly due to a defective soldering. Note that I don't think that the chip itself is defective, only the contacts between the chip and the main board. So, before replacing the chip, I'd recommend to first try what I've written in 6.a (or check my update/summary above).
Keep us posted about everything you find out!
Sprint declined to fix my LS990 due to "water damage" being the reason for it not working, and wanted to charge me a $150 deductible for a $100 phone. Shimming the WiFi chip against the metal covering with some thermal pad I had lying around and adding a bit of sticky foam on top of the ribbon cable for the camera worked great! Much thanks!
Tomcat5 said:
Sprint declined to fix my LS990 due to "water damage" being the reason for it not working, and wanted to charge me a $150 deductible for a $100 phone. Shimming the WiFi chip against the metal covering with some thermal pad I had lying around and adding a bit of sticky foam on top of the ribbon cable for the camera worked great! Much thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any idea if thermal paste/grease could work?
unlikely
NavHur said:
Any idea if thermal paste/grease could work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi NavHur,
since the problem is mostly caused by a loose Wi-Fi chip, respectively a defective solder joint, using thermal paste or grease is unlikely to help; again, what you need to do is to have your Wi-Fi chip pushed against your main board. You can use your imagination on how to accomplish this; what Tomcat5 described he did ultimately led to exactly having his chip being pressed against the board.
Of course you are free to try whatever you want - if you find new solutions please post some feedback.
Good luck.
NimbleWeasel said:
Hi NavHur,
since the problem is mostly caused by a loose Wi-Fi chip, respectively a defective solder joint, using thermal paste or grease is unlikely to help; again, what you need to do is to have your Wi-Fi chip pushed against your main board. You can use your imagination on how to accomplish this; what Tomcat5 described he did ultimately led to exactly having his chip being pressed against the board.
Of course you are free to try whatever you want - if you find new solutions please post some feedback.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks you so much, I placed a small piece of plastic above the wifi chip and one next to the camera lens. Now the wifi works fine. However my screen was pushed up so it bended a little. The faulty thing was my battery, not the added plastic. I compared mine with the one of a friend, mine was 1 mm bigger. (also with the battery of my friend's g3 the screen was fine)
I'll be changing it soon.
same problem as u but sometimes wifi works(mainly fully charged) and sometimes dont
i have lg g2 D802 model. It had a wifi problem as u shown in your videos,my phone also behaves same like yours but sometimes it works normally like while charging,works like 2 or 3 times a day(for 5-10 min).please tell me whether my phone got ic problem or software issue
Pratap94 said:
i have lg g2 D802 model. It had a wifi problem as u shown in your videos,my phone also behaves same like yours but sometimes it works normally like while charging,works like 2 or 3 times a day(for 5-10 min).please tell me whether my phone got ic problem or software issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Pratap94,
nobody, neither here in this forum nor elsewhere in the internet, will be able to give you a reliable answer without having a *physical* look at your phone. Nobody.
However, I can give you my opinion, based on the stuff you wrote: The fact that it works normally sometimes, specially while charging (probably it heats up in the process?), indeed seems to indicate a hardware issue. I believe you have a loose Wi-Fi chip i.e. a defective solder joint, like I had on my LG G2 D802 as well. I solved my problem by doing the stuff I described in 6.a.
Good luck.
Thank you so much
NimbleWeasel said:
Hello all,
first of all, I want to thank brysclar and xbing6 for their valuable feedback! Thanks a lot guys! :good:
Problem solved good bless you!! the problem is fix in that youtube video XD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly step 6.a did not help me. Well, it worked for first 5-10 minutes and then back again.
Olzhas18 said:
Sadly step 6.a did not help me. Well, it worked for first 5-10 minutes and then back again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Olzhas18,
that might be an indication that your WiFi chip is still a bit loose and is not sitting tight enough on the main board. On LG G2, it is difficult to push the chip against the board because it's covered by a metal cover...
Also, did you check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag ?
Good luck!
NimbleWeasel said:
Hi Olzhas18,
that might be an indication that your WiFi chip is still a bit loose and is not sitting tight enough on the main board. On LG G2, it is difficult to push the chip against the board because it's covered by a metal cover...
Also, did you check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag ?
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you this tip and this whole thread. I have seen this video, but still the same effect. 5-10 minutes, I can rean some news and back to flashing. I'm going to buy Huawei Honor 8 soon, it was the last chance to recover my G4. I doubt I will purchase any other phone from LG.
Same boat
But bluetooth working
In cm roms also wifi tethring can be onn
But u cnt turn onn wifi
I had the same issue, can't turn on Wifi after factory reset.
I turn off my device off after one hour and reboot wifi was OK but when I want to upgrade some apps iwifi turn of again and my phone reboot with no SIM card.
I do "6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape" + a creedit card cut with this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_0jzp65eLY#t=73.319872
My LG G2 works fine
I have a backup Verizon LG Velvet. I have the LG V60 as my main phone. With or without a sim the Velvet states "Service Disabled" and the bars have a small x next to them. I and Verizon have tried all the normal troubleshooting tips available.
Factory reset
Airplane mode on/off
Network reset and so on.
The sim works fine in other phones I tested so it's not the sim giving the issue.
Verizon tried on their end to get the phone to work but still kept getting the same service disabled. I'm down to thinking it's more a hardware issue than it is software. But not sure which internal module I should replace. The logic board or the lower PCB.
I even tried to lookup flashing the stock firmware to see if that helps via LGUP and LG Flash Tool. Neither I could get to work to achieve that goal.
Anyway, I was wondering if anyone could share an assist as to what is wrong or how to rectify the issue to the get the service to work on this phone. Anyone have any idea? Thanks.
Maybe the C port pcb. I know on Samsung phones one of the failure modes with the C port pcb is lose of internet and phone. It gets a lot of wear and tear. If it applies to this phone, don't know.
An experienced repair tech is probably your best shot...
blackhawk said:
Maybe the C port pcb. I know on Samsung phones one of the failure modes with the C port pcb is lose of internet and phone. It gets a lot of wear and tear. If it applies to this phone, don't know.
An experienced repair tech is probably your best shot...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's also what I thinking when I mention replacing the lower PCB. I will give that a shot. And then go further if that doesn't help. Thnx
prahsper said:
That's also what I thinking when I mention replacing the lower PCB. I will give that a shot. And then go further if that doesn't help. Thnx
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Click to collapse
They are generally inexpensive. Of course the elephant in the room is it could be the mobo instead... I hope it's the former.
It's also possible that the firmware was corrupted. A freak random hit by a high energy particle can do exactly that. A reflash of the stock rom be the next thing to try after the port pcb or maybe before depending on what you think.
blackhawk said:
They are generally inexpensive. Of course the elephant in the room is it could be the mobo instead... I hope it's the former.
It's also possible that the firmware was corrupted. A freak random hit by a high energy particle can do exactly that. A reflash of the stock rom be the next thing to try after the port pcb or maybe before depending on what you think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. The reflash was my first choice but couldn't find the right program to work with this phone and the right KDZ file I was having trouble finding. I kept getting errors with LGUP and Flash Tool.
prahsper said:
Yes. The reflash was my first choice but couldn't find the right program to work with this phone and the right KDZ file I was having trouble finding. I kept getting errors with LGUP and Flash Tool.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I change my views about flash memory corruption after watching that vid. The volume of bit drops on the Apollo flight is jaw dropping.
blackhawk said:
I change my views about flash memory corruption after watching that vid. The volume of bit drops on the Apollo flight is jaw dropping.
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Click to collapse
I may have found my issue. I put the logic board under my scope and found some damage to the lower PCB like I thought and you mentioned. There is a "+" and "-" connectors above the charging port where the plate of the speaker connects to. The "+" connector is missing.
I ordered another charging port PCB and when that arrives, I will see if that fixes the issue and let you know.
prahsper said:
I may have found my issue. I put the logic board under my scope and found some damage to the lower PCB like I thought and you mentioned. There is a "+" and "-" connectors above the charging port where the plate of the speaker connects to. The "+" connector is missing.
I ordered another charging port PCB and when that arrives, I will see if that fixes the issue and let you know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So as it turns out, it wasn't just the lower pcb. Although it did need replacement as well. But it was the main pcb. So I ordered the main pcb from eBay for 60 dollars and the seller ended up sending me the entire phone in perfect condition and perfect working condition. LOL-go figure.