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Hi guys,
since the charger of the iPhone has an USB connector, my question is if I can use that charger for the Nexus One too??
Since it supplies actually the same energy level (both can get energy from a PC USB instead), does this mean that also the charger delivers current with good specifications for the N1?
thanx in advance
exelero
How are you going to plug the iPhone 30 pin in to a micro USB? Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly.
to plug the microUSB-to-USB cable of the Nexus One into the USB socket of the iPhone charger.
moto1907 said:
How are you going to plug the iPhone 30 pin in to a micro USB? Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think (s)he means the mains adapter part with the USB socket in it - in which case yes it will work, you just need the right cable - which came with your N1
Looking forward to when all manufacturers standardised on micro usb, for a while I thought that mini usb was micro, so I was surprised to see that the n1 was different then I found out....
ok, now i see. Not enough coffee yet,lol
scote said:
in which case yes it will work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, from the connection part, I know it will work. my question was more related if the iPhone charger delivers the appropriate current (tension/amperage) conditions for the N1 and, let's say, it won't burn the N1 due to a too high voltage, or mess up the battery due to an incorrect tension input.
I was just having a conversation on chargers with a friend of mine the other day and googled around on the subject on amperage/current/Ma of chargers..
I stumbled upon these posts (either here on XDA, Androidforums or other forums):
1. "The current rating on a voltage source is the maximum amount that the power
source can deliver without exceeding its saftey rating.
What this means is that if you are using some device that has a power supply
with a current rating of 500mA then its best not to use a different power
supply(at the same votlage rating) with a lower max current rating. i.e.,
anything < 500mA. Now ofcourse you might be able to get away with it but if
it burns down your house then its your fault.
A device will only pull the amount of current that it uses(assuming it is a
voltage controlled device) and this is true regardless of the current
rating(hence the saftey issues I discussed above). If a device
says(sometimes they don't) it uses 500mA then it uses 500mA. Maybe it
doesn't use 500mA all the time but the engineers have put that rating there
for a reason. Using any power supply with the right voltage and a current
rating of anything more than what the device uses is ok because the device
will only pull the current it uses.
Now, about the voltage rating: The voltage rating does not have to be exact
and different devices can tolerate different voltage ratings. The problem
usually is one of current. By increasing the voltage, say, you increase the
current the device uses and then you have changed the parameters that the
device was created with."
2. "And as far plugging your phone into a charger that outputs well over 850mA, don't worry about that either. Unlike voltage, the more amperage the merrier because the device will only take what it needs of the available resources."
3. "Moral of the story. Match the Voltage (5.1Volts) Meet or Exceed the 850mA rating. (which is .850 Amps) and you'll be fine."
4. "amps are not pushed but drawn
amps is the max the charger can provide
before it get pressured and lover the volts
you could use a 5volt 10000MegaAmp charger
and the device would only draw the amps the device
was made to draw all the rest of the amps would stay
at your electricity company
ohms law state Amps == volts / residence"
5. "amps are not pushed but drawn
ohms law state Amps == volts / residence
In other English:
P = VI, where
P = Power of device (watts) and is fixed
V = Voltage used by device (volts) and is fixed
I = Current (amps) and is decided by P/V (a fixed ratio)
So the device cannot draw more current than the fixed ratio. It may draw less current if the charger cannot supply the highest amount, but then as in one of the above posts, it simply takes longer to recharge.
With these devices, milliWatts/miliAmps are the scale, 5V is generally the fixed Potential Difference.
Used in a vehicle, the device is generally both drawing and expending energy (ie. charging and running say, GPS) simultaneously. This in/out situation when prolonged is the cause of the observed overheating with the original X1 battery."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bottom line... Make sure the voltage is 5V, the amperage doesn't really matter.
thanx for your feedback.
both chargers have the same output (5V, 1A) - so I am already successfully using it.
blackberry storm also has micro-usb
hello two chargers and an extra usb-cable
To answer the OP's question...
yes it works fine. I have one in my car and charge my ipod and nexus at the same time without issue. The advanced zune car adapter also works (in case one of the 5 who own a zune are reading this ).
I have been using my old Iphone white plug -> USB adapter for almost a month now and I haven't had any issues.
I tried using the iPhone charger but it charges slow...it does not quick charge. Am I doing something wrong?
uhohhotdog said:
I tried using the iPhone charger but it charges slow...it does not quick charge. Am I doing something wrong?
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Click to collapse
no. If i'm up to date, and i think i am, you'll only get the 'fast charge' if you use the charger that came with your phone. the usb to usb micro chargers all charge slow
Can i use X10 mini charger (5v DC 850mA output) on nexus one by the things i read i understand that i can't but my english is not very good. Thanks
if youre talking about using the iphone usb cable on your n1, HAHAAHHAAHAHAHAH
if you mean using the usb-to-AC adaptor then yea you can use any usb cable to charge anything pretty much..
I have older chargers for that output 5.0v / 550mA and have noticed that the Captivate outputs 5.0v / 700mA.
1. Can I safely use the older, 550mA chargers with the Captivate and what will the effect be?
2. Can I safely use the Captivate's 700mA charger with the older phones and what will the effect be?
Thanks.
1. Yes, you can use it. But it will charge slower.
2. Yes, you can use it. I believe that just because the charger output is higher amperage doesn't mean that it will affect the phone adversely. Think of it this way: A lamp is plugged into the wall outlet at your house. That outlet is rated at 120v 15A. The bulb isn't using all 15 amps, so no problem. But if you were to turn the voltage up or down, the lamp will get brighter or dimmer respectively.
The Captivate can take up to a 1A (1000 mA) charger.
Truceda said:
1. Yes, you can use it. But it will charge slower.
2. Yes, you can use it. I believe that just because the charger output is higher amperage doesn't mean that it will affect the phone adversely. Think of it this way: A lamp is plugged into the wall outlet at your house. That outlet is rated at 120v 15A. The bulb isn't using all 15 amps, so no problem. But if you were to turn the voltage up or down, the lamp will get brighter or dimmer respectively.
The Captivate can take up to a 1A (1000 mA) charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another question. You sound smart on this so how about using the nexus one car charger on this? Fits perfect and I don't see why not, but still Leary. .. what do you think?
As long as it puts out 5v, (which is USB standard), you are fine. The amperage is only relevant if the device REQUIRES it. For instance if the device draws 1A and your charger could only handle 550mA your device will charge very slowly.
On the other hand if your charger can handle 1.2A and your device only draws 700mA, then your charger will only output 700mA.
The important thing is the voltage, it needs to be 5v +/- 3% ...
I actually use a generic car charger I bought at walmart with 2 USB ports on it, and it works well for every USB powered device I own ... ZUNE, iPOD, phones etc.
OK. Thanks for the reply. I had read that a phone requiring 700mA that uses a 550mA charger could damage the charger and possibly the phone. That's what made me wonder. And that's what led to the question.
Let's make this a bit more interesting. There's a local, highly-reputable cell phone repair store that has stopped selling car chargers because, they say, the rapid charge is not good for the phone's battery. Their recommendation is to use an inverter (no, they don't sell them) so that you can then plug a standard wall charger into it or a USB cable if the inverter is so equipped. The AC current that results from utilizing the inverter is more consistent than the current flowing from a car charger. So...I purchased an inverter for less than $20 and use it to charge the Captivate in my car.
OK ... not sure we need to get this far down in the weeds on this but here goes ....
The USB2 standard for power distribution is 5v and the thresholds are 4.4-5.25V.
Power is supplied in units of 5v power ... 1 unit is 5v at 100mA, no device can draw more than 5 units from any one port. If you have ever seen a portable hard drive with 2 USB connectors it is because it requires more than 500mA to operate and by using 2 ports the device can draw up to 1A. For dedicated chargers the 4.4-5.25v still applies but shorting the D+/- and disabling the data connection allows the device to detect that it is connected to a dedicated charging port and draw a maximum of 1.8A.
In keeping with the above guidelines, when connected to your computer the Captivate can draw no more than 1 unit of power which is [email protected], when connected to a dedicated charger the phone can draw [email protected] and stay within the standard. (yes, it caps itself at 1A, I know).
OK ... the next bit is going to be hard to digest because there are plenty of examples to the contrary ... there is a standard for mobile USB chargers, and it requires wiring them as dedicated charging ports. What this means to us is that, in theory anyway, a mobile USB charger should allow a device to draw up to 1.8A from it (highly unlikely ... but that's the standard as written).
Here is the problem, if the device is plugged into a dedicated charging port and tries to draw it's maximum rated current, that amount of current may not always be available or it may fluctuate. This fluctuation is what causes problems. Have you ever turned you car stereo up real loud and seen your headlights dim in beat with the music? Same thing, the power system is being drawn down. There are a couple of ways to stabalize your power system ... install a large capacitor (mine is 2 Farad) to provide "conditioning", or go the transformer route.A tansformer provides conditioning, but only on its own outputs... while a large cap will condition the entire power system if installed correctly.
So yes, using a quick charger on your phone can cause issues if your car has a ****ty power system or a large stereo system which is not set up properly (again, ****ty power system). Make sure your charging device is within the standard, and you should be fine wether it is USB via a cigarette lighter port or a 110V transformer.
I appreciate your detailed, helpful reply.
Other than the important 5v parameter, what I've taken away from your information is that a car charger can be used in a vehicle with a power supply that is known to be stable, and that either a whole-car conditioning system or an inverter should be used on one with a, shall we say, "less than stable" power supply (PG version ).
Jack45 said:
I appreciate your detailed, helpful reply.
Other than the important 5v parameter, what I've taken away from your information is that a car charger can be used in a vehicle with a power supply that is known to be stable, and that either a whole-car conditioning system or an inverter should be used on one with a, shall we say, "less than stable" power supply (PG version ).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty much ...
There's more than one way to skin a cat, and that Transformer will cost you a whole lot less than a 2 Farad capacitor. I hate cats, but they serve a purpose.
@Battlehymn - one more question for you
I have converted from iPhone to the captivate (no haters please) - finally found a physical form factor with specs i like and the captivate rocks.
Anyway, I have some extra external batteries I used with my iphone that i want to use with my Captivate. I just bought a Female iPod connector and I am planning to connect it to a micro USB connector - the pinout is straight forward, but here is my question:
Should I connect the D+/- (short them together)? That is my plan. My batteries are 1900 or 1000 mAH - I assume that even if the phone tries to the draw 1.8A, the batteries have a circuit to only discharge so fast.
HI everyone, hope thats the right forum
I have in my possession an iphone 4 charger, and since i dont have a dedicated G2X charger i was wondering if it is possible to charge the LG phone with Iphone charger?
thanks!
Well I thought iPhones use same charger as ipods which has a lot wider plug than an android charger. But if that's changed and it fits than plug it in and find out.
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
I don't see it working unless you have some sort of an adapter. The G2x uses a micro USB port, and the iPhone uses a proprietary port.
please see bellow what charger i have. just need to plud the USB cord in the charger, since it have USB input.
so, technically it should work, but will this affect the battery in the long run? i mean, maybe the voltage\current values are different.
If it is a USB adapter then it should conform to USB standards and would then work. I think most of the previous responses assumed you meant a charger with the iPhone tip.
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk
The idea itself will not work, you can pick one up from Amazon or eBay for pretty cheap.
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
Actually it's likely it won't work. Compare the amps on the G2x charger vs. the iPhone one (and just about any other generic USB charger). All the one's I have are different, lower, and don't work with the G2x. One of them, for some odd reason, makes the touchscreen not work at all when plugged in.
lilaliend said:
Actually it's likely it won't work. Compare the amps on the G2x charger vs. the iPhone one (and just about any other generic USB charger). All the one's I have are different, lower, and don't work with the G2x. One of them, for some odd reason, makes the touchscreen not work at all when plugged in.
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Click to collapse
That is not correct, iphone charger will work technically, however it will reduce your battery life over time due to iphone charger are 1amp while g2x charger is 0.7Amp. Amps must meet to properly charge at the pace selected by manufacturer and battery specs. Lower amp takes time to charge, higher amp will charge fast but will reduce life.
Sent via MIUI-G2X
Mine is rate for 1AMP.
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
nycelitemaster said:
That is not correct, iphone charger will work technically, however it will reduce your battery life over time due to iphone charger are 1amp while g2x charger is 0.7Amp. Amps must meet to properly charge at the pace selected by manufacturer and battery specs. Lower amp takes time to charge, higher amp will charge fast but will reduce life.
Sent via MIUI-G2X
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does it even fit? The ports are totally different. Perhaps an adapter?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
DON'T DO IT!!!! your phone will suddenly become just like everyone else's and you won't be able to do anything about it! your technology will become dumbed down, and you will becomea victim of conformity!
HEED MY WARNING!!!
Don't worry, using that iPhone charger/adapter won't turn your Android phone into an iPhone.
The iPhone charger/adapter is a 5 volt USB adapter, it will work. The battery will charge normally, there's a charge regulation circuit in the phone and protection circuitry in the battery which will ensure that the battery won't be screwed. I use a variety of USB power adapters which range in their current rating which is the maximum current the device is capable of supplying at the rated voltage (although the cheap adapters' output voltage decreases as the current output (load current) increases. The LG power adapter I have is rated at 4.8 Volts and 1 Ampere output. I use that, a USB port on my computer which is rated at 5 Volts and 1/2 Ampere (500 ma), and other 5V power adapters. I also use a variety of micro USB cables some of which are just for supplying power, not data, and they work too.
Core Memory said:
Don't worry, using that iPhone charger/adapter won't turn your Android phone into an iPhone.
The iPhone charger/adapter is a 5 volt USB adapter, it will work. The battery will charge normally, there's a charge regulation circuit in the phone and protection circuitry in the battery which will ensure that the battery won't be screwed. I use a variety of USB power adapters which range in their current rating which is the maximum current the device is capable of supplying at the rated voltage (although the cheap adapters' output voltage decreases as the current output (load current) increases. The LG power adapter I have is rated at 4.8 Volts and 1 Ampere output. I use that, a USB port on my computer which is rated at 5 Volts and 1/2 Ampere (500 ma), and other 5V power adapters. I also use a variety of micro USB cables some of which are just for supplying power, not data, and they work too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good info.
Thanks
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
thanks for the informative reply Core Memory.
didnt think using iphone charger will turn my android into iphone
so, bottom line - it is safe to use that charger.
Thanks!!
un.droid said:
thanks for the informative reply Core Memory.
didnt think using iphone charger will turn my android into iphone
so, bottom line - it is safe to use that charger.
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it's totally safe. I've got a service manual for an LG phone which is substantially the same as the G2X and Optimus 2X which shows the battery charge circuitry. That circuitry regulates battery charging. Here's some more info regarding the battery:
90% = 4.05V +/- 0.05V
60% = 3.83V ditto
30% = 3.72V ditto
10% = 3.64V ditto
OFF = 3.42V
The battery voltage decreases according to the load current (milliamps) over a period of time. The higher the load current during a specific period of time, the quicker the battery voltage decreases; that's why it is important to have everything except the cell radio and the operating system off when the phone is in standby. There will be some background processes, etc., which are necessary too. Bluetooth, GPS, and WiFi quickly drain the battery. Automatic updating should be turned off always. If you're not expecting any calls, turn the phone off. Setup your phone to reroute received phone calls to your home or work phone, if the call is important they will leave a message, then pick up the messages at your convenience. Use a ROM and kernel which are known to have good battery life.
ive been useing the iphone dock to charge my g2x and it works fine lol no issue
I spent much time to research, ask sony support, google... but i dont have answer yet...
I have got: (Everything is 5.0VDC)
Xperia Tablet Z (It comes with 1500mA charger)
MDR1-RBT BT Headphones (It comes with no charger, charge only via USB PC port - 500mA?)
MW600 BT Headset (It comes with 350mA cherger)
Can i charge all with 1500mA charger without ANY issues?
Please help me i can't get answer for long...
Please help.
BUMP
It'll eventually damage it
Sent from my Karbonn A15 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Will damage the headphones
Sent from my GT-I9100G using xda app-developers app
arvin07143 said:
Will damage the headphones
Sent from my GT-I9100G using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i can charge it only via USB to PC?
Sony supporter said i can charge it with adaptor with specs 1500mA...
I don't understand it at all...
BUMP!
This one is not quite so straightforward without knowing about the internal circuitry of those devices you have in regards to how they charge.
Now, in general, it is safe to say that you must always match the voltage and polarity of the device you are charging, often you can use a higher rated current charger or power supply.
Why?
A device typically only draws how many amps it needs in order to function.
Take your TV for example, it probably only needs 2-3 amps to run yet it is plugged straight into the mains which has the capability of supplying many hundred of amps yet your TV doesn't "fry", it simply draws what it needs.
When it comes to charging its a bit more complicated and depends on the device (does it have internal charging circuitry or is the the item you plug into the wall and actual charger and not simply an AC/DC converter).
Most small electronics which contain a battery and are simply supplied with an AC/DC converter, say, Input 120V 1A output 5V 100ma have their own current regulating charging circuitry inside. This means that the thing you plug into the wall isn't actually a charger, its an AC/DC converter.
In that case the converter can have a higher rated amp output than your device states it needs because your device will only draw what it wants.
If what you are plugging into the wall is an actual charger which has the job of regulating the current flow to the device that needs charging then you will want to get one as close to spec as the original so as not to damage your device.
All the devices you list seem to charge via 5V, most likely a USB type interface.
This means that they are not supplied with actual chargers, simply power supplies, the charging and current limiting mechanism is inside each device.
In theory therefore you should be able to 'charge' all your devices via the 1500mA AC/DC converter, the products you have will only draw what they need in order to charge, the 1500mA will not be pushed or forced upon each device.
Also, think of this, you have been smart and come to ask for advice, how many people simply use the USB 'charger' of their husband/wife/sister/brother to charge their phone or product when they can't find their own and those devices aren't damaged.
The only thing is if the current is too low then it will either not charge or take much longer.
I hope that helps.
zasy99 said:
This one is not quite so straightforward without knowing about the internal circuitry of those devices you have in regards to how they charge.
Now, in general, it is safe to say that you must always match the voltage and polarity of the device you are charging, often you can use a higher rated current charger or power supply.
Why?
A device typically only draws how many amps it needs in order to function.
Take your TV for example, it probably only needs 2-3 amps to run yet it is plugged straight into the mains which has the capability of supplying many hundred of amps yet your TV doesn't "fry", it simply draws what it needs.
When it comes to charging its a bit more complicated and depends on the device (does it have internal charging circuitry or is the the item you plug into the wall and actual charger and not simply an AC/DC converter).
Most small electronics which contain a battery and are simply supplied with an AC/DC converter, say, Input 120V 1A output 5V 100ma have their own current regulating charging circuitry inside. This means that the thing you plug into the wall isn't actually a charger, its an AC/DC converter.
In that case the converter can have a higher rated amp output than your device states it needs because your device will only draw what it wants.
If what you are plugging into the wall is an actual charger which has the job of regulating the current flow to the device that needs charging then you will want to get one as close to spec as the original so as not to damage your device.
All the devices you list seem to charge via 5V, most likely a USB type interface.
This means that they are not supplied with actual chargers, simply power supplies, the charging and current limiting mechanism is inside each device.
In theory therefore you should be able to 'charge' all your devices via the 1500mA AC/DC converter, the products you have will only draw what they need in order to charge, the 1500mA will not be pushed or forced upon each device.
Also, think of this, you have been smart and come to ask for advice, how many people simply use the USB 'charger' of their husband/wife/sister/brother to charge their phone or product when they can't find their own and those devices aren't damaged.
The only thing is if the current is too low then it will either not charge or take much longer.
I hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know that Xperia tablets and phones won't take more mA than it needs but does MDR1-RBT has the same thing? I did a lot of research but i still can't find the 100% answer. I don't want to try unless 100% sure. (Its expensive headphones)
EDIT:
Few sony supporters said: You can charge it only via USB cabble to Personal computer
Few sony supporters said: You can charge it only via USB cabble to PC or Adaptor (Linked me to USB/AC Adaptor with THE SAME specs like XTZ charger - 1500 mA)
Is Adaptor same as XTZ?
I found this on OFFICIAL Sony eSupport
http://docs.esupport.sony.com/portable/MDR1RBT_guide/en/contents/01/03/01/01.html?search=charg
OFFICIAL TIPS:
Tips
If the micro-USB cable is connected to a computer while the headset is turned on, the headset will be turned off automatically.
To charge the headset from an AC outlet, use USB Charging AC Power Adaptor* (sold separately). For details, refer to the manuals supplied with the USB Charging AC Power Adaptor.
The headset cannot be turned on while charging the battery.
* Refer to the Reference Guide on the recommended adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BUMP
Zas99 answer is spot on.once the voltage matches to your device your ok.most phone chargers you can pull out the usb charging cable. u could use that or buy a another usb charger at 1500ma to 2000ma.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium
E7ite: You should be fine, the fact that it charges via USB means that it must have its own internal charging circuitry.
I bet your Xperia tablet also charges via a USB type cable right, on a USB port?
All my USB 'chargers' have different mA rating yet they charge my products just fine as long as the mA rating is at LEAST what the device needs, not less, and hey, if its a little less it also works, just takes longer.
Look at it this way, the USB specs are always changing as is their current handling capability, now we are at USB 3.1, just recently we were at USB 3.0 which bumped up maximum device current usage during data transmission to 900mA or for dedicated charging 1.5A.
For USB 1.x - 2.0 it was 100mA before negotiation, up to 500mA thereafter, also with a dedicated charging capacity of 1.5A if the D- & D+ pins are shorted.
I bet Sony doesn't tell you that you can only charge via a USB 1.x - 2.0 port do they? Nope, that means if your computer has a USB 3 port that its has the potential to deliver more, remember, that's the key, it CAN deliver more if needed but it won't, it will only give the device what it draws.
The cable they supply with your headphone is most likely not a data cable but rather a so called charging cable so therefore is rated up to 1.5A or 1500mA but your headphones will only draw what they need to charge.
Everyone uses the term charger which is so wrong, when you put your AA or AAA batteries into the little black box and plug it into a wall, that is a charger, when you connect your car battery via the +/- terminals and clamps to the charger, that is also a real charger, they are directly responsible for charging the batteries.
All these other things we use to 'charge' our little electronic devices do nothing other than take the 120V A/C and convert it into for example 5V DC. The current rating they indicate next to the 5V is simply the max current handling capability, nothing more, it not what is pushed to the device, its what the device can request up to to be delivered. The actual charging goes on inside the device.
By the way, as the batteries charge the device reduces the current and sometimes also the voltage, batteries typically charge faster when they are low and able to absorb more current then as they fill up and can absorb less the charger adjusts to a more or less trickle such as 100mA or less in order to maintain but not overcharge the battery.
By the way, this is what I found on Amazon in about 2 minutes, a review from someone else who bought the headphones.
"For the price, sony should have included a wall charger. Instead they included a USB cable. The headphones will charge on any computer, but using a generic USB wall charger will show a blinking amber error light--but the headphones still charge."
Also, the link you indicated to the sony manual about charging gives absolutely no information at all.
You are over thinking it, just try it
If you are really worried why not get a regular cell phone USB charger and use that, one that states like 500mA on it and has a female USB plug on it. That way you can use your headphone USB cable and plug it into the 5V 500mA phone 'charger'.
One last thing, just don't use Apple product 'chargers' to charge non Apple products, why you ask, because Apple does strange things with the pins on their 'chargers' in order to indicate the supply current. This can sometimes lead to adverse effects for non Apple devices.
Good luck.
zasy99 said:
E7ite: You should be fine, the fact that it charges via USB means that it must have its own internal charging circuitry.
I bet your Xperia tablet also charges via a USB type cable right, on a USB port?
All my USB 'chargers' have different mA rating yet they charge my products just fine as long as the mA rating is at LEAST what the device needs, not less, and hey, if its a little less it also works, just takes longer.
Look at it this way, the USB specs are always changing as is their current handling capability, now we are at USB 3.1, just recently we were at USB 3.0 which bumped up maximum device current usage during data transmission to 900mA or for dedicated charging 1.5A.
For USB 1.x - 2.0 it was 100mA before negotiation, up to 500mA thereafter, also with a dedicated charging capacity of 1.5A if the D- & D+ pins are shorted.
I bet Sony doesn't tell you that you can only charge via a USB 1.x - 2.0 port do they? Nope, that means if your computer has a USB 3 port that its has the potential to deliver more, remember, that's the key, it CAN deliver more if needed but it won't, it will only give the device what it draws.
The cable they supply with your headphone is most likely not a data cable but rather a so called charging cable so therefore is rated up to 1.5A or 1500mA but your headphones will only draw what they need to charge.
Everyone uses the term charger which is so wrong, when you put your AA or AAA batteries into the little black box and plug it into a wall, that is a charger, when you connect your car battery via the +/- terminals and clamps to the charger, that is also a real charger, they are directly responsible for charging the batteries.
All these other things we use to 'charge' our little electronic devices do nothing other than take the 120V A/C and convert it into for example 5V DC. The current rating they indicate next to the 5V is simply the max current handling capability, nothing more, it not what is pushed to the device, its what the device can request up to to be delivered. The actual charging goes on inside the device.
By the way, as the batteries charge the device reduces the current and sometimes also the voltage, batteries typically charge faster when they are low and able to absorb more current then as they fill up and can absorb less the charger adjusts to a more or less trickle such as 100mA or less in order to maintain but not overcharge the battery.
By the way, this is what I found on Amazon in about 2 minutes, a review from someone else who bought the headphones.
"For the price, sony should have included a wall charger. Instead they included a USB cable. The headphones will charge on any computer, but using a generic USB wall charger will show a blinking amber error light--but the headphones still charge."
Also, the link you indicated to the sony manual about charging gives absolutely no information at all.
You are over thinking it, just try it
If you are really worried why not get a regular cell phone USB charger and use that, one that states like 500mA on it and has a female USB plug on it. That way you can use your headphone USB cable and plug it into the 5V 500mA phone 'charger'.
One last thing, just don't use Apple product 'chargers' to charge non Apple products, why you ask, because Apple does strange things with the pins on their 'chargers' in order to indicate the supply current. This can sometimes lead to adverse effects for non Apple devices.
Good luck.
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Thank you for reply.
As far as I know, if you plug in your Nexus5 (or any phone) into a power source with high amperage (>1A), your phone should utilize the amps it actually needs to charge at full speed (AC Charging).*
For example, if i plug my Nexus 5 into a 2.1A charger, it will charge just fine and draw only the required amps needed.*
Ive noticed my phone (rooted with faux) and my wifes (stock) and very finicky when it comes to the amps a charger uses. *It appears that if a charger is not exactly 1.0A or 1.2/1.3A, the phone charges as USB and not AC (no matter which USB cable I use). *Below is what I have found out, *with charge type/amp and how the phone sees it
Stock charger (1.2A) - AC
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (1A Android port) - AC
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (1A iPhone port) - USB (not sure why??)
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (1.3A Galaxy Tab Port) - AC
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (2.1A iPad ports) - USB
Anker E4 13000mah battery (2A) - USB
ANker E4 13000mah battery (1A) - AC
Anyone else experience this?
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What you've observed here actually has nothing to do with the amperage of your ports and everything to do with how their data pins are wired. The N5 (and most other android devices) looks for the data +/- pins in the USB port to be shorted together, this is how it determines it's connected to a charger. Apple devices do this differently, they look for a specific combination of voltages to be present on the data +/- pins. When you connect your N5 to an Apple port, it ignores these voltages and just charges as if it were connected to a PC.
Now the fact that it sees the Galaxy Tab port as a charger is kind of interesting because the Tab uses yet another method for charger detection. It looks for resistors of a specific value connecting the data +/- pins to the power +/- pins. Cool that the N5 recognizes this configuration as well.
Anyway, this is why your Anker charger has ports dedicated to specific devices, each one is configured a little differently.
That would make sense, however, I would expect the same thing on my Nexus 4 but that doesn't happen. It charges as AC for every port
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It could simply be that the N4 uses a different power control IC from the N5 (they almost certainly do). That and the software controlling the charging determine whether the phone enables AC charging from different ports or not.
I believe (I have not tried this) that some custom kernels have a setting that enables fast charging unconditionally, to draw as much current as the hardware allows.
Yeah I'm waiting for a kernel to support Fast charge, don't believe any do at the moment
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the phone may revert to lower power usb charging if some condition isn't met... the phone is completely ignorant of the rated power of the wall wart. current is drawn, it depends on ohms.. so it has nothing to do with the "power output." what i mean is there is no situation where too many amps is going to trigger something in the phone, the phone controls the amps and is ignorant of the max the supply can give unless the phone actually exceeds that and detects a voltage drop, the supply can't force more amps without raising voltage to do so but that's just not how these devices work. so it's not because of the amps of the charger, it must be some other aspect.
what the phone can see is voltage. the state of the microusb "Id" pin (which will probably be open if you are using a data cable and not a specific dock to put it in desk mode or car mode, not that i think the n5 has those modes, but the Id pin is what tells the phone these things, as well as set them into download mode to flash them) and the state of the data pins. generally the data pins need to be shorted together to tell the phone to go into ac charging.
it's possible however that if the voltage is lower than 5v, the phone assumes there is voltage drop from too low a power rating on the supply and it's unable to supply the current. in this situation the phone may default to a lower current charging mode. some ac chargers may not go all the way to 5.0v they may put out as low as 4.45v... if the voltage is either low or unstable from the "high output" charger it may cause the phone to think it has exceeded the output rating of the supply when infact it's just getting unclean power. try it with an official tablet charger for a kindle or something and not a store bought anything..... some of the high output chargers just have substandard regulators and/or filtering.
there may also be more to this. usb 3.0 has a higher current rating than usb 2.0 if the phone can detect the type of port it's connected to, that may also determine the charge mode.. (in thoery anyway, no reason it can't work that way, but i can't say i know that it does on any current device)
It's getting pretty aggravating now that my Nexus 5 charges as USB when connected to my anker slim 2 1A external battery as well as my anker astro e4 1A port. No reason why it should do this
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If you use a fast charging USB cable with the proper pins shorted you should get it to charge with in AC mode. I grabbed one from Amazon and it changed from DC to AC on the same charger.
jalanjkcarp said:
If you use a fast charging USB cable with the proper pins shorted you should get it to charge with in AC mode. I grabbed one from Amazon and it changed from DC to AC on the same charger.
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Oh thanks for that tip. I'll order one on Amazon right now and update this thread
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What happens if you connect an Apple device to one with the shorted pins?
Earth explodes
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jalanjkcarp said:
If you use a fast charging USB cable with the proper pins shorted you should get it to charge with in AC mode. I grabbed one from Amazon and it changed from DC to AC on the same charger.
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Tested the new USB cord on all ports, charges as AC. Thanks a lot
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