I spent much time to research, ask sony support, google... but i dont have answer yet...
I have got: (Everything is 5.0VDC)
Xperia Tablet Z (It comes with 1500mA charger)
MDR1-RBT BT Headphones (It comes with no charger, charge only via USB PC port - 500mA?)
MW600 BT Headset (It comes with 350mA cherger)
Can i charge all with 1500mA charger without ANY issues?
Please help me i can't get answer for long...
Please help.
BUMP
It'll eventually damage it
Sent from my Karbonn A15 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Will damage the headphones
Sent from my GT-I9100G using xda app-developers app
arvin07143 said:
Will damage the headphones
Sent from my GT-I9100G using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i can charge it only via USB to PC?
Sony supporter said i can charge it with adaptor with specs 1500mA...
I don't understand it at all...
BUMP!
This one is not quite so straightforward without knowing about the internal circuitry of those devices you have in regards to how they charge.
Now, in general, it is safe to say that you must always match the voltage and polarity of the device you are charging, often you can use a higher rated current charger or power supply.
Why?
A device typically only draws how many amps it needs in order to function.
Take your TV for example, it probably only needs 2-3 amps to run yet it is plugged straight into the mains which has the capability of supplying many hundred of amps yet your TV doesn't "fry", it simply draws what it needs.
When it comes to charging its a bit more complicated and depends on the device (does it have internal charging circuitry or is the the item you plug into the wall and actual charger and not simply an AC/DC converter).
Most small electronics which contain a battery and are simply supplied with an AC/DC converter, say, Input 120V 1A output 5V 100ma have their own current regulating charging circuitry inside. This means that the thing you plug into the wall isn't actually a charger, its an AC/DC converter.
In that case the converter can have a higher rated amp output than your device states it needs because your device will only draw what it wants.
If what you are plugging into the wall is an actual charger which has the job of regulating the current flow to the device that needs charging then you will want to get one as close to spec as the original so as not to damage your device.
All the devices you list seem to charge via 5V, most likely a USB type interface.
This means that they are not supplied with actual chargers, simply power supplies, the charging and current limiting mechanism is inside each device.
In theory therefore you should be able to 'charge' all your devices via the 1500mA AC/DC converter, the products you have will only draw what they need in order to charge, the 1500mA will not be pushed or forced upon each device.
Also, think of this, you have been smart and come to ask for advice, how many people simply use the USB 'charger' of their husband/wife/sister/brother to charge their phone or product when they can't find their own and those devices aren't damaged.
The only thing is if the current is too low then it will either not charge or take much longer.
I hope that helps.
zasy99 said:
This one is not quite so straightforward without knowing about the internal circuitry of those devices you have in regards to how they charge.
Now, in general, it is safe to say that you must always match the voltage and polarity of the device you are charging, often you can use a higher rated current charger or power supply.
Why?
A device typically only draws how many amps it needs in order to function.
Take your TV for example, it probably only needs 2-3 amps to run yet it is plugged straight into the mains which has the capability of supplying many hundred of amps yet your TV doesn't "fry", it simply draws what it needs.
When it comes to charging its a bit more complicated and depends on the device (does it have internal charging circuitry or is the the item you plug into the wall and actual charger and not simply an AC/DC converter).
Most small electronics which contain a battery and are simply supplied with an AC/DC converter, say, Input 120V 1A output 5V 100ma have their own current regulating charging circuitry inside. This means that the thing you plug into the wall isn't actually a charger, its an AC/DC converter.
In that case the converter can have a higher rated amp output than your device states it needs because your device will only draw what it wants.
If what you are plugging into the wall is an actual charger which has the job of regulating the current flow to the device that needs charging then you will want to get one as close to spec as the original so as not to damage your device.
All the devices you list seem to charge via 5V, most likely a USB type interface.
This means that they are not supplied with actual chargers, simply power supplies, the charging and current limiting mechanism is inside each device.
In theory therefore you should be able to 'charge' all your devices via the 1500mA AC/DC converter, the products you have will only draw what they need in order to charge, the 1500mA will not be pushed or forced upon each device.
Also, think of this, you have been smart and come to ask for advice, how many people simply use the USB 'charger' of their husband/wife/sister/brother to charge their phone or product when they can't find their own and those devices aren't damaged.
The only thing is if the current is too low then it will either not charge or take much longer.
I hope that helps.
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Click to collapse
I know that Xperia tablets and phones won't take more mA than it needs but does MDR1-RBT has the same thing? I did a lot of research but i still can't find the 100% answer. I don't want to try unless 100% sure. (Its expensive headphones)
EDIT:
Few sony supporters said: You can charge it only via USB cabble to Personal computer
Few sony supporters said: You can charge it only via USB cabble to PC or Adaptor (Linked me to USB/AC Adaptor with THE SAME specs like XTZ charger - 1500 mA)
Is Adaptor same as XTZ?
I found this on OFFICIAL Sony eSupport
http://docs.esupport.sony.com/portable/MDR1RBT_guide/en/contents/01/03/01/01.html?search=charg
OFFICIAL TIPS:
Tips
If the micro-USB cable is connected to a computer while the headset is turned on, the headset will be turned off automatically.
To charge the headset from an AC outlet, use USB Charging AC Power Adaptor* (sold separately). For details, refer to the manuals supplied with the USB Charging AC Power Adaptor.
The headset cannot be turned on while charging the battery.
* Refer to the Reference Guide on the recommended adapter.
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Click to collapse
BUMP
Zas99 answer is spot on.once the voltage matches to your device your ok.most phone chargers you can pull out the usb charging cable. u could use that or buy a another usb charger at 1500ma to 2000ma.
Sent from my HTC Desire S using xda premium
E7ite: You should be fine, the fact that it charges via USB means that it must have its own internal charging circuitry.
I bet your Xperia tablet also charges via a USB type cable right, on a USB port?
All my USB 'chargers' have different mA rating yet they charge my products just fine as long as the mA rating is at LEAST what the device needs, not less, and hey, if its a little less it also works, just takes longer.
Look at it this way, the USB specs are always changing as is their current handling capability, now we are at USB 3.1, just recently we were at USB 3.0 which bumped up maximum device current usage during data transmission to 900mA or for dedicated charging 1.5A.
For USB 1.x - 2.0 it was 100mA before negotiation, up to 500mA thereafter, also with a dedicated charging capacity of 1.5A if the D- & D+ pins are shorted.
I bet Sony doesn't tell you that you can only charge via a USB 1.x - 2.0 port do they? Nope, that means if your computer has a USB 3 port that its has the potential to deliver more, remember, that's the key, it CAN deliver more if needed but it won't, it will only give the device what it draws.
The cable they supply with your headphone is most likely not a data cable but rather a so called charging cable so therefore is rated up to 1.5A or 1500mA but your headphones will only draw what they need to charge.
Everyone uses the term charger which is so wrong, when you put your AA or AAA batteries into the little black box and plug it into a wall, that is a charger, when you connect your car battery via the +/- terminals and clamps to the charger, that is also a real charger, they are directly responsible for charging the batteries.
All these other things we use to 'charge' our little electronic devices do nothing other than take the 120V A/C and convert it into for example 5V DC. The current rating they indicate next to the 5V is simply the max current handling capability, nothing more, it not what is pushed to the device, its what the device can request up to to be delivered. The actual charging goes on inside the device.
By the way, as the batteries charge the device reduces the current and sometimes also the voltage, batteries typically charge faster when they are low and able to absorb more current then as they fill up and can absorb less the charger adjusts to a more or less trickle such as 100mA or less in order to maintain but not overcharge the battery.
By the way, this is what I found on Amazon in about 2 minutes, a review from someone else who bought the headphones.
"For the price, sony should have included a wall charger. Instead they included a USB cable. The headphones will charge on any computer, but using a generic USB wall charger will show a blinking amber error light--but the headphones still charge."
Also, the link you indicated to the sony manual about charging gives absolutely no information at all.
You are over thinking it, just try it
If you are really worried why not get a regular cell phone USB charger and use that, one that states like 500mA on it and has a female USB plug on it. That way you can use your headphone USB cable and plug it into the 5V 500mA phone 'charger'.
One last thing, just don't use Apple product 'chargers' to charge non Apple products, why you ask, because Apple does strange things with the pins on their 'chargers' in order to indicate the supply current. This can sometimes lead to adverse effects for non Apple devices.
Good luck.
zasy99 said:
E7ite: You should be fine, the fact that it charges via USB means that it must have its own internal charging circuitry.
I bet your Xperia tablet also charges via a USB type cable right, on a USB port?
All my USB 'chargers' have different mA rating yet they charge my products just fine as long as the mA rating is at LEAST what the device needs, not less, and hey, if its a little less it also works, just takes longer.
Look at it this way, the USB specs are always changing as is their current handling capability, now we are at USB 3.1, just recently we were at USB 3.0 which bumped up maximum device current usage during data transmission to 900mA or for dedicated charging 1.5A.
For USB 1.x - 2.0 it was 100mA before negotiation, up to 500mA thereafter, also with a dedicated charging capacity of 1.5A if the D- & D+ pins are shorted.
I bet Sony doesn't tell you that you can only charge via a USB 1.x - 2.0 port do they? Nope, that means if your computer has a USB 3 port that its has the potential to deliver more, remember, that's the key, it CAN deliver more if needed but it won't, it will only give the device what it draws.
The cable they supply with your headphone is most likely not a data cable but rather a so called charging cable so therefore is rated up to 1.5A or 1500mA but your headphones will only draw what they need to charge.
Everyone uses the term charger which is so wrong, when you put your AA or AAA batteries into the little black box and plug it into a wall, that is a charger, when you connect your car battery via the +/- terminals and clamps to the charger, that is also a real charger, they are directly responsible for charging the batteries.
All these other things we use to 'charge' our little electronic devices do nothing other than take the 120V A/C and convert it into for example 5V DC. The current rating they indicate next to the 5V is simply the max current handling capability, nothing more, it not what is pushed to the device, its what the device can request up to to be delivered. The actual charging goes on inside the device.
By the way, as the batteries charge the device reduces the current and sometimes also the voltage, batteries typically charge faster when they are low and able to absorb more current then as they fill up and can absorb less the charger adjusts to a more or less trickle such as 100mA or less in order to maintain but not overcharge the battery.
By the way, this is what I found on Amazon in about 2 minutes, a review from someone else who bought the headphones.
"For the price, sony should have included a wall charger. Instead they included a USB cable. The headphones will charge on any computer, but using a generic USB wall charger will show a blinking amber error light--but the headphones still charge."
Also, the link you indicated to the sony manual about charging gives absolutely no information at all.
You are over thinking it, just try it
If you are really worried why not get a regular cell phone USB charger and use that, one that states like 500mA on it and has a female USB plug on it. That way you can use your headphone USB cable and plug it into the 5V 500mA phone 'charger'.
One last thing, just don't use Apple product 'chargers' to charge non Apple products, why you ask, because Apple does strange things with the pins on their 'chargers' in order to indicate the supply current. This can sometimes lead to adverse effects for non Apple devices.
Good luck.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for reply.
Related
I have older chargers for that output 5.0v / 550mA and have noticed that the Captivate outputs 5.0v / 700mA.
1. Can I safely use the older, 550mA chargers with the Captivate and what will the effect be?
2. Can I safely use the Captivate's 700mA charger with the older phones and what will the effect be?
Thanks.
1. Yes, you can use it. But it will charge slower.
2. Yes, you can use it. I believe that just because the charger output is higher amperage doesn't mean that it will affect the phone adversely. Think of it this way: A lamp is plugged into the wall outlet at your house. That outlet is rated at 120v 15A. The bulb isn't using all 15 amps, so no problem. But if you were to turn the voltage up or down, the lamp will get brighter or dimmer respectively.
The Captivate can take up to a 1A (1000 mA) charger.
Truceda said:
1. Yes, you can use it. But it will charge slower.
2. Yes, you can use it. I believe that just because the charger output is higher amperage doesn't mean that it will affect the phone adversely. Think of it this way: A lamp is plugged into the wall outlet at your house. That outlet is rated at 120v 15A. The bulb isn't using all 15 amps, so no problem. But if you were to turn the voltage up or down, the lamp will get brighter or dimmer respectively.
The Captivate can take up to a 1A (1000 mA) charger.
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Click to collapse
Another question. You sound smart on this so how about using the nexus one car charger on this? Fits perfect and I don't see why not, but still Leary. .. what do you think?
As long as it puts out 5v, (which is USB standard), you are fine. The amperage is only relevant if the device REQUIRES it. For instance if the device draws 1A and your charger could only handle 550mA your device will charge very slowly.
On the other hand if your charger can handle 1.2A and your device only draws 700mA, then your charger will only output 700mA.
The important thing is the voltage, it needs to be 5v +/- 3% ...
I actually use a generic car charger I bought at walmart with 2 USB ports on it, and it works well for every USB powered device I own ... ZUNE, iPOD, phones etc.
OK. Thanks for the reply. I had read that a phone requiring 700mA that uses a 550mA charger could damage the charger and possibly the phone. That's what made me wonder. And that's what led to the question.
Let's make this a bit more interesting. There's a local, highly-reputable cell phone repair store that has stopped selling car chargers because, they say, the rapid charge is not good for the phone's battery. Their recommendation is to use an inverter (no, they don't sell them) so that you can then plug a standard wall charger into it or a USB cable if the inverter is so equipped. The AC current that results from utilizing the inverter is more consistent than the current flowing from a car charger. So...I purchased an inverter for less than $20 and use it to charge the Captivate in my car.
OK ... not sure we need to get this far down in the weeds on this but here goes ....
The USB2 standard for power distribution is 5v and the thresholds are 4.4-5.25V.
Power is supplied in units of 5v power ... 1 unit is 5v at 100mA, no device can draw more than 5 units from any one port. If you have ever seen a portable hard drive with 2 USB connectors it is because it requires more than 500mA to operate and by using 2 ports the device can draw up to 1A. For dedicated chargers the 4.4-5.25v still applies but shorting the D+/- and disabling the data connection allows the device to detect that it is connected to a dedicated charging port and draw a maximum of 1.8A.
In keeping with the above guidelines, when connected to your computer the Captivate can draw no more than 1 unit of power which is [email protected], when connected to a dedicated charger the phone can draw [email protected] and stay within the standard. (yes, it caps itself at 1A, I know).
OK ... the next bit is going to be hard to digest because there are plenty of examples to the contrary ... there is a standard for mobile USB chargers, and it requires wiring them as dedicated charging ports. What this means to us is that, in theory anyway, a mobile USB charger should allow a device to draw up to 1.8A from it (highly unlikely ... but that's the standard as written).
Here is the problem, if the device is plugged into a dedicated charging port and tries to draw it's maximum rated current, that amount of current may not always be available or it may fluctuate. This fluctuation is what causes problems. Have you ever turned you car stereo up real loud and seen your headlights dim in beat with the music? Same thing, the power system is being drawn down. There are a couple of ways to stabalize your power system ... install a large capacitor (mine is 2 Farad) to provide "conditioning", or go the transformer route.A tansformer provides conditioning, but only on its own outputs... while a large cap will condition the entire power system if installed correctly.
So yes, using a quick charger on your phone can cause issues if your car has a ****ty power system or a large stereo system which is not set up properly (again, ****ty power system). Make sure your charging device is within the standard, and you should be fine wether it is USB via a cigarette lighter port or a 110V transformer.
I appreciate your detailed, helpful reply.
Other than the important 5v parameter, what I've taken away from your information is that a car charger can be used in a vehicle with a power supply that is known to be stable, and that either a whole-car conditioning system or an inverter should be used on one with a, shall we say, "less than stable" power supply (PG version ).
Jack45 said:
I appreciate your detailed, helpful reply.
Other than the important 5v parameter, what I've taken away from your information is that a car charger can be used in a vehicle with a power supply that is known to be stable, and that either a whole-car conditioning system or an inverter should be used on one with a, shall we say, "less than stable" power supply (PG version ).
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Click to collapse
Pretty much ...
There's more than one way to skin a cat, and that Transformer will cost you a whole lot less than a 2 Farad capacitor. I hate cats, but they serve a purpose.
@Battlehymn - one more question for you
I have converted from iPhone to the captivate (no haters please) - finally found a physical form factor with specs i like and the captivate rocks.
Anyway, I have some extra external batteries I used with my iphone that i want to use with my Captivate. I just bought a Female iPod connector and I am planning to connect it to a micro USB connector - the pinout is straight forward, but here is my question:
Should I connect the D+/- (short them together)? That is my plan. My batteries are 1900 or 1000 mAH - I assume that even if the phone tries to the draw 1.8A, the batteries have a circuit to only discharge so fast.
I have about 5 Micro USB wall charger laying around, so when I got my Captivate I was happy to see that it used a Micro USB.
My question is.... Is all of the Micro USB power supplies the same? the ones i have are from different Motorola phones.
Thanks,
Coldheat1906 said:
I have about 5 Micro USB wall charger laying around, so when I got my Captivate I was happy to see that it used a Micro USB.
My question is.... Is all of the Micro USB power supplies the same? the ones i have are from different Motorola phones.
Thanks,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean the wall charger. The charger and the cable are actually separate. You can plug any USB cable into this that has a female USB end. The other end could be mini, micro, ipod, or something else.
They are not all the same - the Moto charger delivers more Amps then the Captivate. Some charger deliver less. The phone will only draw what it is set to, so you can use just about all of them.
cool thanks
The short answer: It's probably fine
The long answer:
USB is a specification, so anything using usb should be designed to run at (for USB 2.0) 4.4-5.25 V. It *should* be fine for charging any microUSB device (the "U" is for "Universal") but I guess it's possible (though unlikely) that the company that made the charger did something funky/proprietary with the voltage/amperage, which would make it not USB even though it uses a USB port. See if the charger says the operating voltage/current on it. It should say around 5V and somewhere in the range of 150-900 mA. If it does, you're golden, if it doesn't say you're still probably fine.
The phone is actually quite picky about chargers. It can recognize a USB charger in either (1) AC wall charger or (2) USB charger. If your paritular charger can be recognized as AC charger, it can be charged in a faster rate if your wall charger can deliver. The Captivate comes with a 700ma wall charger. Some can deliver 1000ma or even higher but Captivate internally limits to 1000ma max from what I read. The higher the amprage, the faster it can charge the battery.
On the other hand, if your charger is recognized as USB charger, not only you will be prompted to select USB mode (if you configured to do so) as if you connect it to a PC, you will also be limited to maximum of 500ma of charging current per USB standard. It will be slower than the stock charger (which is slow already).
foxbat121 said:
The phone is actually quite picky about chargers. It can recognize a USB charger in either (1) AC wall charger or (2) USB charger. If your paritular charger can be recognized as AC charger, it can be charged in a faster rate if your wall charger can deliver. The Captivate comes with a 700ma wall charger. Some can deliver 1000ma or even higher but Captivate internally limits to 1000ma max from what I read. The higher the amprage, the faster it can charge the battery.
On the other hand, if your charger is recognized as USB charger, not only you will be prompted to select USB mode (if you configured to do so) as if you connect it to a PC, you will also be limited to maximum of 500ma of charging current per USB standard. It will be slower than the stock charger (which is slow already).
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Click to collapse
It is not "picky" it follows the USB specifications. For instance I have a 4 port USB wall charger that is capable of supplying 5 volts at 2000 mA to one port or 5v @ 500 mA to 4 ports. Unfortunately the charger is not complex enough to know how many devices are plugged in at once and therefore always signals to all devices to only use a maximum of 500 mA. So if those devices follow the specs they will only draw 500 mA max since it is seen as a high current device (low current devices only should draw 100 mA max).
I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE OPEN UP ANY ELECTRICS EVER ESPECIALLY ONES WHEN CONNECTED TO THE AC LINES IN YOUR HOMES. IT IS A FIRE AND ELECTROCUTION RISK AND I NOR ANYONE ELSE TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OWN STUPIDITY.
However I hacked it by adding a resistor of proper value between the data pins so that the phone if it wanted to could use the full 2000 mA. Know whenever plugged into that USB port the phone goes into AC mode and from some rough testing during the bulk charging phase the phone charges at a rate of 40% per hour instead of the USB modes 20% per hour. With this hack it takes roughly 3 hours to fully charge since the final charging stage of lithium batteries requires the current to slowly be dialed back. Thats a lot better than the USB modes 5 hours.
icedfire101 said:
It is not "picky" it follows the USB specifications.
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Click to collapse
I say it is picky because without hacking it will only use USB mode for most wall chargers and car chargers out there. It probably won't be any problem for a slow wall charger. But for car charger, 500ma is simply not enough if you also run GPS navigation. The phone uses more than 500ma of juice in that mode. I've to hack my car charger (a 700ma USB charger designed for iPod etc) couple times to let it reliably recognize as AC charger.
foxbat121 said:
I say it is picky because without hacking it will only use USB mode for most wall chargers and car chargers out there. It probably won't be any problem for a slow wall charger. But for car charger, 500ma is simply not enough if you also run GPS navigation. The phone uses more than 500ma of juice in that mode. I've to hack my car charger (a 700ma USB charger designed for iPod etc) couple times to let it reliably recognize as AC charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again that is not "picky" it is doing what it is suppose to. What we really need are companies that will follow the USB standards and make Dedicated Charging Ports on there chargers. Most companies cheap out and only make 500 mA and 700 mA products (which that is why charging is so slow). Then they sell it to consumers that don't know any better. Especially with the 700 mA chargers since consumers will think that it is better because of the bigger number but devices that properly follow the USB spec will still only draw 500 mA. (I don't know what specifications Apple follows with their device but since a lot of those that I see with 700 mA are geared toward apples device they may be able to make use of them.) I know of no open specification for a USB device to pull 700 mA.
As to why the Samsung stock charger that came with the phone is 700 mA, I m guessing it is because of cost again. I can tell you though that it doesn't short the data lines with the proper X ohm resister for a Dedicated Charging Port. So I m thinking they made their own proprietary standard there just so they could save a few bucks on each charger but still give the consumer something to feel good about for buying there overpriced stuff.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE OPENING UP ANY ELECTRONICS, EVER. ESPECIALLY ONES CONNECTED TO THE AC LINES IN YOUR HOMES. IT IS A FIRE AND ELECTROCUTION RISK AND I NOR ANYONE ELSE TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OWN STUPIDITY.
Dedicated Charging Ports are required to supply 1800 mA. That means if you try and hack a device that is only rated at 700 mA to be a Dedicated Charging Port the device will possibly overheat and die or cause a fire if any device actually tries to pull the 1800 mA.
As far as car chargers: It is very simple to make a Dedicated Charging Port for a car charger provided you have an old USB one you can mod. Just get a DC-to-DC converter that will convert 11-14 volts (your car battery's voltage range) to 5 volts and throw a X ohm resistor on the USB data pins. Put it all in the empty shell of the donor and your done.
I am really frustrated with charging my phone.
From the wall, using the stock 700mA Samsung charger, I get 5% every 10 min.
From a USB cigarette lighter charger modified to source 750mA, I get 3% every 10 min.
From a USB cigarette lighter charger that can source 3A, I get hardly anything.
I assume from these findings that one or more of the following is true:
1. The phone knows when it is plugged into a stock charger.
2. The phone has a current limiter that prevents overcharging.
Does anyone have a charger, other than stock, that they recommend?
I'm half tempted to hook my stock charger up to a cigarette lighter inverter and power it that way.
(I'm also half-tempted to grab a current probe tomorrow and measure what the device is pulling.)
i havent really used my oem samsung wall charger much, but i know when i try to charge from my computers usb it takes 4EVER, thats why i jumped on this ebay deal
IBNobody said:
(I'm also half-tempted to grab a current probe tomorrow and measure what the device is pulling.)
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I'd probe the chargers and see how accurate their ratings are as well....
does anyone know if using a 1mA charger would be okay? i have one left over from my evo.
The phone won't draw more than 500mA from a charger unless the USB data pins are connected.
Be careful, though... 99.9% of the chargers from China that claim to be 700mA (the nominal value of Samsung's) or 1A will overheat and die (or worse) if you try to actually draw that much current for any sustained length of time. I'd almost go so far as to say that it's SO EASY for a manufacturer to support high-power mode, I'd be automatically suspicious of any allegedly high power charger that doesn't ship with the pins shorted together.
Manufacturers know that most consumers don't know the difference (hell, most users HERE don't know the difference, and XDA is the upper crust elite of the Android phone universe), so they omit the shorting bridge and ship a charger with quoted power capacity that it MIGHT be able to sustain for a couple of minutes if you operated it in a walk-in freezer, knowing that most phones will never draw more than 500mA and it'll work fine for them. It lets them sell the charger for 99 cents AND pretend to be better than the others on the rack because it has a bigger "max power" value.
It's "RMS-vs-Peak" all over again.
Yeah I'm one of those that don't know much about the charging. I did figure there was a different charge rate when plugged into the wall and when plugged into usb or a usb converter like powerjolt.
I also found that one of the usb to micro's that I bought for using with my car powerjolt coverter won't let me connect via debugging/adb shell. was a little surprised at this... is it just a bad cord?
bitbang3r said:
The phone won't draw more than 500mA from a charger unless the USB data pins are connected.
Be careful, though... 99.9% of the chargers from China that claim to be 700mA (the nominal value of Samsung's) or 1A will overheat and die (or worse) if you try to actually draw that much current for any sustained length of time. I'd almost go so far as to say that it's SO EASY for a manufacturer to support high-power mode, I'd be automatically suspicious of any allegedly high power charger that doesn't ship with the pins shorted together.
Manufacturers know that most consumers don't know the difference (hell, most users HERE don't know the difference, and XDA is the upper crust elite of the Android phone universe), so they omit the shorting bridge and ship a charger with quoted power capacity that it MIGHT be able to sustain for a couple of minutes if you operated it in a walk-in freezer, knowing that most phones will never draw more than 500mA and it'll work fine for them. It lets them sell the charger for 99 cents AND pretend to be better than the others on the rack because it has a bigger "max power" value.
It's "RMS-vs-Peak" all over again.
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Click to collapse
D+ to D- must be shorted to get the high power mode? Maybe that was why my 3A supply was not handling it.
The Epic pulls 380mA when charging from a USB port from a Dell T3400 workstation. The result was steady at 40% and 80%.
I'll try out my other charging methods later and find out everything.
Stay tuned!
EDIT 1:
380mA is the magic number. It draws 380mA from all USB sources, including my two car chargers.
It draws 600mA from the wall adapter.
The wall adapter does indeed have D+ and D- shorted. My other chargers did not.
Here is the pinout for a USB port: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Here is the "beefy" USB charger I've been using:
http://www.wagan.com/index.php?page...ategory_id=22&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=98
This charger is rather nice because the step-down supply (AX3002) has a large heatsink soldered to the ground tab.
It currently pulls up/down the D+/- lines via resistors. Each port is pulled down separately.
What I plan on doing next is to remove the pull resistors from one of the ports and short D+/- together.
Well, this explains a lot. This was really getting frustrating. I bought a "high-curent" charger for my car and the phone blows through the battery when I'm driving around with Maps running.
Im always on the road and for me an inverter in cigarette lighter with stock wall charger works best.the slowest charge is using stock usb cable since theres a slot for it on the inverter.2nd was radio shack car lighter in inverter.the inverter was from radio shack as well
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
IBNobody said:
Here is the pinout for a USB port: http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that is the official spec but there are actually not just four but six connectors on usb micro, which is how samsung can create a whole mess of pinut jumps for various amperage draws as well as data, entrainment dock and car dock.
Are all of Apple's OEM iPhone wall chargers (the white little square looking one's) rated at 1 amp? They're cheap on eBay and I like their small form factor and want to pick one up for my Captivate. Thx
I use one and they work fine.
^If you have your charger on hand, would you mind checking to see if it outputs 1Amp?
On your phone, go to Settings->About Phone->Status->Battery Status. If it says "Charging (AC)", it is charging at the max amperage the charger can offer (up to 1A). If it says "Charging (USB)", it is only charging at 500mA, the max a PC USB can offer. I'm pretty sure for iPhone/iPod chargers, it will show later case on our phone because it is not wired according to Samsung's AC charging requirement. I knew this because I had a 3rd party Car charger that was designed for iPhone/iPod and it won't let my Captivate to charge in AC charger mode. I have to open the charger and make a few mod myself to let Captivate to recognize this is an AC charger, not PC USB.
On the other hand, my 1A charger from Kodak Zi8 flash cam works w/o problem with Captivate.
foxbat121 said:
On your phone, go to Settings->About Phone->Status->Battery Status. If it says "Charging (AC)", it is charging at the max amperage the charger can offer (up to 1A). If it says "Charging (USB)", it is only charging at 500mA, the max a PC USB can offer. I'm pretty sure for iPhone/iPod chargers, it will show later case on our phone because it is not wired according to Samsung's AC charging requirement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ty for the reply. I modded a usb retractable cable by shorting the middle connectors and when I go into settings it shows it's "Charging AC". This is with a generic 700mA usb wall charger I got with a cheap connector kit for my old iPhone.
Anyway, I recently got my Captivate and I find myself constantly playing with it, but it kills my battery doing so. I just want to charge my phone as quickly as possible so I can continue playing with it some more (in a good way).
I like Apple's wall charger because it's small.
From what I have read they are rated at 650 mv so fox is right that they will show as a usb connection. I have never really paid attention and am making a relatively uneducated, yet randomly tested, through my own purely subjective method of simply plugging my phone into anything that will allow my usb cord access, guess that anything with a female usb connection is fine.
Li-ion batteries are kinda dangerous so I am pretty sure there is some sort of idiot proofing built into the charging circuitry in the phone as well.
I'm pretty sure the Captivate will only draw the amps it needs so there should be no danger whether the wall charger is 1 or 2 Amps or more.
The difference is simply the charge time. The phone needs about 3 to 4 hours to get a full charge on the stock 700mA charger. When using generic USB chargers, it will be limited to 500mA max regardless what the charger is capable of and the full charge time will be proportionally longer. The bigger problem is that when your battery is really really low, 500mA may not be enough to even start the charging. That's why you need always keep the OEM charger handy for emergency.
BTW, for a car charger, 500mA won't keep your bettery from draining if you run navigation app that needs to power GPS chip, keep the screen on and download map from 3G connection at the same time. It requires 700mA or more. That is why it is very critical for a car charger be recognized by the phone as AC charger to draw more juice.
Ok, as I stated in my previous post I modded a USB cable by shorting the two middle data connectors, which tricks the Captivate into thinking it's charging with AC through my generic 700mA wall charger. It also says in settings it's "AC Charging" when I looked.
I just wanted to know if the iPhone's wall charger is rated at 1A or was it 650mA?? as newter55 stated.
thx for everyone's help.
Edit: My mistake, I thought I posted this in the Q&A section.
For some new PC motherboard with USB3.0,
they can output 900mA~1000mA(1A) in one single USB port.
You may check this out http://goo.gl/TUaef
If your PC is already 2 years old or older, the usb will only output 500mA in the max.
And, most Li-ion charger are smart enough.
In fact Li-ion charger circuit need to be well design in current control and over current/charge control.
The circuit will not pump full current to the battery in the beginning,
and it will not draw too much, so no need to worry about burn it up.
However if the current is too high let's say 10A.... it may possibly burn the circuit.
Maybe it is a bit difficult to measure current, you need to cut the wire and plug it to ampmeter....
Here is some reference.
500mA - full charge need over 3hrs
700mA - around 2hrs
1A - ~1.5 hr
johan8 said:
For some new PC motherboard with USB3.0,
they can output 900mA~1000mA(1A) in one single USB port.
You may check this out http://goo.gl/TUaef
If your PC is already 2 years old or older, the usb will only output 500mA in the max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not about USB port side. The phone itself also detects and determines how much current it will draw. If it detects it is a PC USB, it will only draw 500mA max as Captivate is designed following USB 2.0 spec.
Ok, thanks for everyone's help. I was able to find out on my own after scouring the internet and talking to someone who has the Apple wall charger and it is indeed 1Amps. I believe all wall chargers that come with the iPhone 3g and all iPhone models after are 1Amps. Not sure about the original iPhone 2g.
Also, for curiosities sake, the iPad USB wall charger is 2Amps.
foxbat121 said:
It is not about USB port side. The phone itself also detects and determines how much current it will draw. If it detects it is a PC USB, it will only draw 500mA max as Captivate is designed following USB 2.0 spec.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe.
I don't know the control circuit inside GalaxyS.
But USB2.0 doesn't means it is just 500mA.
iphone is just usb2.0, but it is the only thing can draw 1A from USB ?
http://goo.gl/GVqKl
(with designated m/b)
johan8 said:
Maybe.
I don't know the control circuit inside GalaxyS.
But USB2.0 doesn't means it is just 500mA.
iphone is just usb2.0, but it is the only thing can draw 1A from USB ?
http://goo.gl/GVqKl
(with designated m/b)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're missing the point. The charge port on the phone can draw more than 500mA but only if it detects it is connected to a AC charger. Like mentioned above, you have to short the data PINs on the USB port or cable to let the Captivate think it is connected to AC charger. For iPhone, the data pins need to be connected to certain specific voltages in order to let iPhone know it is connected to an Apple AC charger.
When the phone can not detect AC charger characteristics, it falls back to PC USB 2.0 spec which is 500mA max.
I use one to charge my Zune. Haven't had a problem.
foxbat121 said:
You're missing the point. The charge port on the phone can draw more than 500mA but only if it detects it is connected to a AC charger. Like mentioned above, you have to short the data PINs on the USB port or cable to let the Captivate think it is connected to AC charger. For iPhone, the data pins need to be connected to certain specific voltages in order to let iPhone know it is connected to an Apple AC charger.
When the phone can not detect AC charger characteristics, it falls back to PC USB 2.0 spec which is 500mA max.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fully understand what you're saying.
In iphone3, it can only draw 700mA from USB,
IP4 can draw nearly 1A from "computer" USB.
While iphone are just USB2.0 !
GalaxyS can draw 1A in max.
But does it like iphone4 can draw 1A from PC USB ? I don't know.
Or just like IP3 can draw only 500~700mA ?
I don't have new m/b and ampmeter so can't testing on it.
As far as I know, if you plug in your Nexus5 (or any phone) into a power source with high amperage (>1A), your phone should utilize the amps it actually needs to charge at full speed (AC Charging).*
For example, if i plug my Nexus 5 into a 2.1A charger, it will charge just fine and draw only the required amps needed.*
Ive noticed my phone (rooted with faux) and my wifes (stock) and very finicky when it comes to the amps a charger uses. *It appears that if a charger is not exactly 1.0A or 1.2/1.3A, the phone charges as USB and not AC (no matter which USB cable I use). *Below is what I have found out, *with charge type/amp and how the phone sees it
Stock charger (1.2A) - AC
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (1A Android port) - AC
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (1A iPhone port) - USB (not sure why??)
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (1.3A Galaxy Tab Port) - AC
Anker 25W 5-Port Wall charger (2.1A iPad ports) - USB
Anker E4 13000mah battery (2A) - USB
ANker E4 13000mah battery (1A) - AC
Anyone else experience this?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
What you've observed here actually has nothing to do with the amperage of your ports and everything to do with how their data pins are wired. The N5 (and most other android devices) looks for the data +/- pins in the USB port to be shorted together, this is how it determines it's connected to a charger. Apple devices do this differently, they look for a specific combination of voltages to be present on the data +/- pins. When you connect your N5 to an Apple port, it ignores these voltages and just charges as if it were connected to a PC.
Now the fact that it sees the Galaxy Tab port as a charger is kind of interesting because the Tab uses yet another method for charger detection. It looks for resistors of a specific value connecting the data +/- pins to the power +/- pins. Cool that the N5 recognizes this configuration as well.
Anyway, this is why your Anker charger has ports dedicated to specific devices, each one is configured a little differently.
That would make sense, however, I would expect the same thing on my Nexus 4 but that doesn't happen. It charges as AC for every port
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
It could simply be that the N4 uses a different power control IC from the N5 (they almost certainly do). That and the software controlling the charging determine whether the phone enables AC charging from different ports or not.
I believe (I have not tried this) that some custom kernels have a setting that enables fast charging unconditionally, to draw as much current as the hardware allows.
Yeah I'm waiting for a kernel to support Fast charge, don't believe any do at the moment
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
the phone may revert to lower power usb charging if some condition isn't met... the phone is completely ignorant of the rated power of the wall wart. current is drawn, it depends on ohms.. so it has nothing to do with the "power output." what i mean is there is no situation where too many amps is going to trigger something in the phone, the phone controls the amps and is ignorant of the max the supply can give unless the phone actually exceeds that and detects a voltage drop, the supply can't force more amps without raising voltage to do so but that's just not how these devices work. so it's not because of the amps of the charger, it must be some other aspect.
what the phone can see is voltage. the state of the microusb "Id" pin (which will probably be open if you are using a data cable and not a specific dock to put it in desk mode or car mode, not that i think the n5 has those modes, but the Id pin is what tells the phone these things, as well as set them into download mode to flash them) and the state of the data pins. generally the data pins need to be shorted together to tell the phone to go into ac charging.
it's possible however that if the voltage is lower than 5v, the phone assumes there is voltage drop from too low a power rating on the supply and it's unable to supply the current. in this situation the phone may default to a lower current charging mode. some ac chargers may not go all the way to 5.0v they may put out as low as 4.45v... if the voltage is either low or unstable from the "high output" charger it may cause the phone to think it has exceeded the output rating of the supply when infact it's just getting unclean power. try it with an official tablet charger for a kindle or something and not a store bought anything..... some of the high output chargers just have substandard regulators and/or filtering.
there may also be more to this. usb 3.0 has a higher current rating than usb 2.0 if the phone can detect the type of port it's connected to, that may also determine the charge mode.. (in thoery anyway, no reason it can't work that way, but i can't say i know that it does on any current device)
It's getting pretty aggravating now that my Nexus 5 charges as USB when connected to my anker slim 2 1A external battery as well as my anker astro e4 1A port. No reason why it should do this
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If you use a fast charging USB cable with the proper pins shorted you should get it to charge with in AC mode. I grabbed one from Amazon and it changed from DC to AC on the same charger.
jalanjkcarp said:
If you use a fast charging USB cable with the proper pins shorted you should get it to charge with in AC mode. I grabbed one from Amazon and it changed from DC to AC on the same charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh thanks for that tip. I'll order one on Amazon right now and update this thread
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What happens if you connect an Apple device to one with the shorted pins?
Earth explodes
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jalanjkcarp said:
If you use a fast charging USB cable with the proper pins shorted you should get it to charge with in AC mode. I grabbed one from Amazon and it changed from DC to AC on the same charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tested the new USB cord on all ports, charges as AC. Thanks a lot
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