Hi all,
I was looking for a replacement Spen for my Note 8 but couldn't find any good (mostly the offset was unacceptable). Then I found a video where some guy (I can't find the video right now. If you know it please post a link and I will add it here) had a great idea of putting Note's 3 Spen inside old ordinary Uniball pen. With that in mind I bought Note's 3 Spen and found few old pens laying around in my office.
Three hours of work and this is what I got:
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What I used:
1 x Old BIC pen
1 x PCB push button
1 x Note 3 Spen
some isolation tape
some paper
some plastic part that I used as a distance inside the pen (Spen was shorter than BIC pen)
Things to keep in mind:
Be careful for your stylus! Mine got stuck twice and getting it out was pretty tricky.
Use your tools wisely. You don't want to brake the Spen or cut/puncture your own hand!
I was successful doing this homemade "spen holder" but I am not responsible for any damage or problems that may arise when you try to do something similar. Always use your brain and be sure you have enough knowledge before you start to work.
I thought one might use this idea if you need accurate and nice stylus in "full" size.
PS
One can of course close the pen and then it looks just like ordinary one. The blue tape is just for my information that this one is actually Spen as I am using identical pen for normal paper writing and drawing
Impressive work, love DIY projects
Nice project and very good idea, i will defiantly try something similar because i got used to write a lot on my note 8.0 and spen is not that comfortable for longer usage.
why cant i think of this... good idea my friend... going to get one... hahaha... kind of tired writing with the current spen... going to use the old note 1 spen to try modding the pen...
what's the PCB button for? to activate the s-pen button?
Related
I am working on a wallmount for my TF700 atm, so once entering the door to my apartment i can grab and operate my house automation software with it.
Basically the 3D modell is done in Google Sketchup.
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Sliced the modell into a back-, mid- and frontplate, and exported it into a dwg-file which you can find in the zip attachment.
View attachment 1652239
I will use my local carpenter to provide me with the plates and work my way forward from this point. Please be advised i have not had time to cut the plates yet since i am quite busy irl atm.
Some work i still need to finish:
- thin rubberband between the tablet and wood, for easy safe sliding into the wallmount
- charging hole @ the bottom
- the mount system itself, hopefully removeable mayby integrate a kickstand so i can even place it on a table
Questions:
Is there a pin layout for the bottom charging plug, i heared it should also support audio out for external speakers there or can this only be achived by the headphone interface at the side of the tablet?
well done. looks nice
I would also recommend to cut-out a small piece in the top-middle of the back-plate. This will probably allow you to more easily grasp at the device.
Rubber does not make a good slide. I would suggest putting a layer of smooth fabric over the rubber to smoothen it.
Silk or Lycra (Lycra is cheaper) should work. Lycra has a better heat regulation than regular cotton, but normal cotton could work too if you're low on budget.
How will you be attaching it to the wall?
I like this idea!
What sort of home automation do you use? Something similar to Brighthouse Networks?
I find that a heavy duty felt works very well as a smooth barrier between two objects. Mostly, I've used it to keep my wood furniture from scratching the new floors, but the same principle applies obviously with glass & wood. It provides a good deal of padding beyond just the low friction surface, and it's also super cheap to boot.
Will I need different shaped screwdrivers or will a regular (small sized) Phillips & or flat head screwdrivers be all I need?
While I was looking for screens on eBay and Amazon I saw some that came with tools. One of the screwdrivers that came with one of the screens looks like a star so now I'm wondering if there are any star shaped screws holding the screen down that'll need a star shaped screwdriver to open it with.
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I hope replacing this screen doesn't end up becoming a huge pain. Will I be okay buying just a screen for $5 or should I pay almost 3 times as much to get the tools?
This is the screen I was originally looking at for $5.55 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=110787423167
Thanks for your suggestions!
When I got a new flex cable it came with the tools needed. BUT I found that a screwdriver I bought from radio Shack had better fitting tips. I'll try to find a link later today if I can.
Edit: I think what I'm referring to is called; RadioShack® 21-Piece Precision Electronic Driver SetCatalog #: 64-185 *|* Model: 6400185 for $17.49
This should be in Q/A. But that being said. I would spring for the kit that comes with the Tools. Especially if you do not have the correct tools. Yes you are going to need the Star shaped Screwdriver. Not for the Screen itself, but to be able to get to it. Also a few other suggestions. One make sure you watch the Video linked in THIS thread on how to disassemble the Shift. That thread also has pics you should study a bit. Another thing that I cannot stress enough. HAVE A CLEAN WORK AREA TO DO THE REPAIR. It will save you a bunch of headaches. Take your time. Do not try to rush the procedure. Lastly, make sure that the work surface, and you are properly grounded. This will avoid any issues from static discharge. Read, and take your time. It will save you grief later on .
Did a quick search and didn't find what I was looking for.
I'm in the Navy and I keep PDFs of all important instructions on my Note 8. I use it all the time at work. I go to a lot of meetings and take notes on a regular 5.5 x 8 inch notepad, I have sticky notes, highliters, and an assortment of pens with me. Im looking for a case that will hold my Note 8 on one side, my notepad on the other side, ans still have slots for pens.
When I first got this I ordered what I thought was exactly what I described above on Amazon. When I got it, turns out the dimensions weren't exactly accurate . It's simply too big to walk around with all day. It's more of what I'd picture an art student would carry around.
I'm looking for something compact, not much bigger than the Tablet itself but with room on the opposite side for a notepad and slots for pens.
Im kicking around a few ideas on Amazon but im afraid to order without the opinion of someone who owns and uses one with the Note 8, in fear of another poor purchase.
Thanks everyone!!
I've been using one of the green "leader book" holders from Rite in the Rain for a little while now; item number C9200A. It's not perfect, and I haven't figured out a way to keep the Note 8 really secured in the binder itself, but there are several pen slots which are big enough to hold a highligher/sharpie/etc, and a few other slots and pockets for smart cards or anything else. And the dimensions are perfect for holding the tablet.
The ones we get from supply (I'm Army btw), come with a packet of inserts that has graphed notebook paper, and fillable pages for things like a 9-line MEDEVAC request, call for fire request, unexploded ordinance, and others. Some of it might be Army specific, but I'm sure you could find it useful too
Anyway, I've been in the same boat as you for awhile, and besides finding some "tactical" (lol) iPad Mini cases/binders, I haven't been able to find much. Let me know if you find something better!
http://www.amazon.com/rooCASE-Samsu...&sr=8-2&keywords=galaxy+note+8+case+executive
This is one other I was looking at, but it doesn't look like it has any room for a notebook. We don't have a supply! But I'll look into what you posted and keep on looking for something. Right now I got a nylon foldable case from the Chaplains that's working well, but having the same problem as the tablet not being totally secure.
Also, it's big!
Thanks for the input!
I use this one. I don't use the planner, but the notepad on top. I then insert the tablet into the pouch below.
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(not red, but brown)
thanks
ehy thanks !
So, I know many of you out there have been looking for a mount for your car, and many of us know how good the iOttie series of Easy One Touch mounts are. The Easy One Touch 2 does work with the 6P, sometimes, but often will press on the buttons on the side or not hold the phone well because of the side arms.
I just bought and received the new iOttie Easy One Touch 3 and can say it works perfectly with the 6p, in or out of a case. I'll get some pictures up tonight, but here's a link and what's new.
http://www.amazon.com/iOttie-Holder-iPhone-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B0197549HS/
Pros
+Arms are built better and hold phone perfectly
+Spring seems stronger
+2 Base feet now
+Base feet are adjustable up and down so you can change the height so the buttons aren't pressed by the arms
+Easier to use control knobs
+Much bigger activation button
+Looks way nicer
Cons
-This may just be for me, but the arm is now an inch or bit more shorter. This may not affect others, but for me I need that extra inch (ba dum dum) so it is closer to my finger when fully extended (bazinga)
I'll get some pics up tonight, if you have questions, shoot them my way.
Oh, I'll probably swap the base back to the Easy One Touch 2 so it is long enough (phrasing!) as they use the same size pivot balls (tada!).
I'll get some
Here's a few pics installed.
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I'll go take a few with my g3 of the 6P in place.
How is it with the volume buttons where the mount looks to hit?
I have some more pictures on my g3 that all post here in a few but like I was saying the feet are completely adjustable up down left and right. I've been able to adjust it so it completely clears the buttons with some slack in there for even thinner cases.
Now I just need a car....
Since the official Nokia 8 covers still aren't available anywhere..
I made a custom cover, printed it and now optimized it further.
The cover is available in 3D-Printable STL format.
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Please leave a thanks if you like it.
enjoy.
What scanner did you use to capture and what material to make ?
Looks awsome, too bad I dont have that phone
ZooBaAr said:
What scanner did you use to capture and what material to make ?
Looks awsome, too bad I dont have that phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no scanner. just a caliper.
to create the 3d-models of the phone and cover, i used solidworks 2017.
i printed it with a objet 30 pro and the material was verowhite.
will print it in veroclear too and show pictures later.
material thickness i used 1.4mm (i can adjust this if needed for other printers).
if someone else prints it with different printers, please show pictures and report about stability.
I like the cover. How did you make a physical copy of it? xD
Well this means u can even customized other stuff such as maybe adding graphics or writing names?
Pardon me cause i have no idea how u do what u did xD
Thanks for that.. I'm going to print it now on an Anet A8 I'll let you know how it comes out..
Ill probably try PLA and some cheap TPU I have.
Awesome, thanks for the sharing, shall try the print on an M3D micro and see how it goes.
Hey, first of all thanks for a awesome cover model.
Too bad it is reeeeeally painful to print. :crying:
My printer is now starting to print it for the sixth time. So far this one is the best try (now at 7%).
I am printing it on its back to get nice flat surface on the outside without need for any support (so I hope).
I couldn't get the print start nicely for the first five prints and I thought it was because my filament was not suitable for any reason or the setting didn't were off. I am printing with eSun Luminous GreenPLA.
I tinkered with speeds and stuff and managed to get that first layer to stick really nice. But once it started to do second layer prints started to string and did not stick.
That's when I started to take a better look at the model itself after slicing. And I found the problem, after the first layer (note that I am printing at 0.15mm layer height) second layer starts printing its exterior lines on basicly nothing and this goes for first 0.45mm. After that the model is pretty much fine and does print on last layer, but I still see some similar problems, but I think it should still work.
To solve this problem I tried and cut first 0.45mm from the model leaving back thickness still somewhere around 1.5mm or so. It should work.
Now printer is doing its job steadily and so far so good, 10% done.
Ill post again when I know how this works