Hi all,
I'm looking to find or write a solution that will display the signal strength of each gsm network (carrier) in a given area.
From the research I've done, I believe it is possible to determine this information by interpreting the BCCH (Broadcast Control Channel) info from each of the surrounding cells, which contains such things as as the signal level, cell id and mobile network code.
Does anyone here know if it is possible to do this via RIL on winmo / ce devices or if there is an existing application that does this. I've looked at the RILCELLTOWERINFO structure on MSDN but this seems to only supply info for the currently connected cell.
I have looked at a HTC application called fieldtest.exe which seems to display signal levels of up to 6 cells, but seem to identify the network code.
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
WiFi is split into 13 channels - they are used to reduce interference with other routers and devices using the same spectrum. Channel can be set manually in a router but is often chosen automatically by the router. The channels themselves overlap; e.g. channel 7 will still intefere with channels +/- 5 channels. Note that not all channels are licensed in all regions of the world so you may only see (say) 11 channels on your router.
What it sounds like you are looking for is the signal to noise or even more general "quality" on any given channel - i.e. finding out which channel would be best for a specific installation. Although the various metrics that would allow you to compute this value are available at the hardware interface, the iPhone networking API does not expose them. You could investigate using a jailbroken iPhone and corresponding devkit or switching your app to the destop.
Steve
Sorry, I probably didn't make it clear, but I'm actually referring to GSM as used by cellphones rather than WiFi.
Any ideas?
Hello all!
Not sure if this has been posted but I figured I would put up a new post. I am showing that I am connected to my home WiFi but I am not able to actually use it. For instance, I cannot open links or watch YouTube videos. I believe it is the router because I just had a Droid RAZR and my connections to the Internet were not dependable. Currently, I am using AT&T's 2Wire 2701HG-B Gateway router.
Are there any settings that should be adjusted within the router? Encryption type is WPA-PSK. Wireless mode is 802.11g/b.
I just got my S3 yesterday and so far WiFi works in other places. Also, I tried the #*0011# thing and that did not work for me. I've rebooted and factory reset my device. Nothing helps. Anything I can change?
Thanks in advance!
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
ooofest said:
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that I'm looking, no it doesn't have it listed there. My phone says its connoted though. I forgot the connection, rebooted the phone and did the #*0011# and reconnected the network. Still the same result. Any ideas?
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes, my iPad and two laptops.
2. There is a link speed and an IP address but the third number of the IP address on my phone is different than the third number of the IP addresses of the devices listed that connect to the router. I hope I made some type of sense saying that lol! There are about 6 devices listed that connect to the router and the first, second and third numbers are the same. My phone only have the first & second numbers in common.
3. didn't try that because I'm assuming something isn't right from the previous answer.
4. I typed in the pass phrase from my phone. I do not know of any other way to connect the device. I am not familiar with doing it from the admin panel especially since I'm not even seeing the device there.
Thanks again!
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
ooofest said:
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
iLogikk said:
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for all of your help!
Rams99 said:
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
iLogikk said:
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest. It's not your phone. I think you said you already did a factory reset on the modem/router correct? If not, do it and revert back to factory settings. If that doesn't work I would call att and tell them to send you another att modem/router. Tell them your wifi is down. Hopefully you'll get everything back to where it was. Good luck.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Fix
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr! http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
I tried this part but all of my settings were already set to match this....including it because it was part of the process.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by shakefry
My little sister received a cool Toshiba Thrive for Christmas but the thing will not connect to the proprietary router we have. The router isn't the problem because I've been able to connect a Macbook, 2 PCs, a 3DS and a smartphone to it and they all work as needed. When we put in the password for the connection it saying it is 'scanning' and 'connecting' then disconnects and starts going into a scanning loop saying is scanning then stopping then starting again.
I found a similar topic about this but the thread did not answer my question. I followed all of the steps of given solutions to no avail. And the constant suggestion to set the beacon or preamble differently is highly frustrating because the model router I have does not have such settings (I have gone through all the menus about ten times, literally).
I have also heard that the connection security could be a factor but I am not willing to downgrade my WPA 2 (TKIP & AES) to a WPA 1 or WEP, unless its absolutely necessary. I've been googling for hours so I need a solution or unfortunately we will have to return it for a more compatible device, which would suck because we got this for a good price (new).
Our router is a 2WIRE 3800 hgv-b (we have AT&T Uverse, idk if I should specify anything else)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi shakefry - Nice to meet you. You are 100 percent right you should not lower your security - WPA2 is the strongest and it does work fine with Thrive. That is what I use.
For some reason the ATT 2-wire routers are the most frustrating, but that is not a problem. We just might have to try a few different things, instead of getting it to connect the first time, so stay with me, OK? big brothers always have to help their little sisters...
----
1. You do not have MAC Filtering enabled,do you? If you do add the Thrive's MAC to the Router's list of permitted devices. Then try connecting.....
2. Not using MAC Filtering, or you added the thrive and still can not connect ......
OK, First ... Lets get the info your Windows Laptop has about your router when it connects
successfully to the 3800HG-B Router via wifi:
On your (Win7?) PC that is successfully connected by wifi to the same network, lets get some wifi settings. Vista - pretty much the same screens, XP a little different looking.
Click on the wifi signal lower right taskbar, open network and sharing center.
click on right side in blue, your network name
Pop up window - click on Details
the detail window opens ...
IPv4 Subnet Mask should be 255.255.255.0, if not we need to change it in the router settings.
This would prevent you from getting to the internet, but with all devices not just thrive.
Copy down IPv4 Default Gateway, and both IPv4 Servers
(Most routers will not need the actual IPv4 addresses in the devices DNS1 and DNS2, but yours might)
Now (no picture) close the DETAILS window and click on WIRELESS PROPERTIES. click on SECURITY tab, then click on SHOW PASSWORD. DO NOT CHANGE THIS FIELD, YOUR PC WILL DISCONNECT. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS FIELD IS THE CORRECT PASSWORD TO YOUR NETWORK.
(I just want to be 100 percent sure - this is the password you need to log the thrive on. You are pretty sharp with all this stuff, so you know it is case sensitive, don't mistake a "zero" for the cap letter O, etc.
We will try using these when we set Thrive's wifi settings for your network.
(Go to link to find the screenshot)
Now please check the following router summary page by logging on to your router.
Make sure, on the right side it, shows enough DHCP Available, and on that the router
address is still 192.168.1.254
And on the left, the page is exactly the same as below, none of the blank fields are filled in, right?
And the top button is still selected ..... 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 (default)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL FIX CAME IN
Originally Posted by shakefry
"Would it possibly help if i DID enable filtering? then I could just put in all the device's MAC addresses and maybe it'll be more focused or something?"
No filtering wont "pull in" the devices, through the front door of the router. Filtering will just turn them around and kick them out again if they are not on the "invited to the party" List.
"edit: I just found a similar page, the design is slightly different. The router/gateway address is one number above my DHCP range and it says I have 178 available and there are 12 allocated (weird because we only have 10 devices connected to this thing that I know of)
OK so you have plenty of available IP addresses (DHCP). It is normal to see a couple more than the number of devices you have."
So now you have the info you need to connect the thrive (maybe):
1-Hold the Thrive in portrait mode so the keyboard does not hide the settings
...
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
enter 192.168.1.173. (a nice odd numbered unused ip, away from the auto assigned ones).
(You are making it an odd number (173) because if you buy, in the future, something like a network drive, or AppleTV, it will probably come with a nice "multiple of five" static number like 150 or 155 or 35
the "CONNECT" is greyed out .... right?
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
ARE YOU CONNECTED???
If NO
1- update the router's firmware - try connecting again
2- We will give up on the 3800 and add your second router, with different sets of DHCP ranges, and broadcasting on a non-conflicting channels to the 3800's channel ( channels 1, 6, and 11 do not conflict with each other - assign one router to channel one and the other to channel 11, and keep them a couple of feet away from each other.
shakefry, Please Let us know how it goes, which solution worked ... so other forum readers can help their little sisters too ....
we are standing by (actually in my comfy recliner waiting ..)
Thanks, bobj
aka Bojo, or Obi-Wan, or RouterRooter
I was able to connect to wifi consistently and access the Internet and YouTube app successfully. Hope this helps someone else!!!
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Glad to hear you got it going. I actually fixed mine about 3 days ago. I read somewhere changing your ssid inside the router helps. Well, I did and it actually worked. I haven't had a problem with my wifi signal yet. On mine what was happening also was whenever my phone would go into sleep for say 5min and I went to use the Internet immediately. It would take the wifi about 20-30secs for the wifi to wake up. So far, since changing my ssid I haven't had that problem at all.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
iLogikk said:
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr!
. . .
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
. . .
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
. . .
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting a followup.
Did you delete and re-add the WiFi network on your phone, configuring it for a static route and IP address that was in the range on the router, essentially?
- ooofest
OK, I've searched Google for weeks and searched the Xoom Q&A, but don't find anything that addresses my problem.
I have a network with one router connected directly to the cable modem. It is called Jaytrenthome. Connected to that via cable is another router in AP mode called JText.
My Xoom connects successfully to both, but only shows blue bars when connected to the JText AP. When connected to Jaytrenthome, it shows Wifi connection, but grey icon indicating no internet connection.
As the routers are on different sides of the house, I need to use both depending on the side of the house I am on.
details about the routers.
Jaytrenthome
WD Mynet N900
2.4 Ghz, WPA2 Personal, 802.11 B+G+N, no selection found to pick AES or TKIP
DHCP active on this router
JText
Netgear WNDR3300
2.4 Ghz, WPA2 PSK (AES), 802.11 N, DHCP turned off, IP address provided by Jaytrenthome
Xoom Details
Xoom Stringray (4G)
Running Baked Stingray rom BB-8
Same problems experienced with EOS and one of the CM variants
4G works flawlessly.
Things I have tried so far.
1. Changing Xoom time update setting to not update automatically.
2. Changing WIFI settings on Jaytrenthome to WPA, WPA2, WEP, etc... with no luck.
3. Turning on the 5 Ghz band of WIFI on Jaytrenthome.
4. Assigning a fixed IP in the Xoom WIFI settings
5. Praying....
Can one of you help from a similar experience?
Thank you!
Sad face...
>70 views and no one has an idea to help me with this.
Thank you for looking, though.
coolbeans8 said:
Can one of you help from a similar experience?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using the same SSID and password for both the routers?
My Xoom did not like it when I had a router and AP broadcasting using the same SSID (and same password) in my house, although my issue wasn't exactly the same as what you're experiencing. For me, the Xoom had a really hard time staying connected to either of the units if the signal strengths were very similar. The signals seem to fluctuate quite a bit in my house, with the strongest signal bouncing back and forth between the two routers, so I ended up with a lot of disconnects and sometimes a long time to authenticate. I ended up moving one of the routers to a better place in the house and eliminating the second one. I'm now getting more reliable connections, particularly if I use the 5 GHz signal. Ultimately I still think there is something interfering with my 2.4GHz signal though, but I haven't had a lot of time to troubleshoot further....
Fixed!
slow1234 said:
Are you using the same SSID and password for both the routers?
My Xoom did not like it when I had a router and AP broadcasting using the same SSID (and same password) in my house, although my issue wasn't exactly the same as what you're experiencing. For me, the Xoom had a really hard time staying connected to either of the units if the signal strengths were very similar. The signals seem to fluctuate quite a bit in my house, with the strongest signal bouncing back and forth between the two routers, so I ended up with a lot of disconnects and sometimes a long time to authenticate. I ended up moving one of the routers to a better place in the house and eliminating the second one. I'm now getting more reliable connections, particularly if I use the 5 GHz signal. Ultimately I still think there is something interfering with my 2.4GHz signal though, but I haven't had a lot of time to troubleshoot further....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you!
I had the ssid set differently, but the same password for each. Your post got me to try changing the password so each ssid uses a different one and voilà.
Woo, hoo!
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
Slim K said:
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
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Thanks for that, great idea! What I find though, with Extenders, is that they require you to have your base station WIFI on 24/7 where my set-up the base, which is right next to me, is off and the 2nd router is WIFI on. This keeps me from being 2.4 or 5.0 waves passing through my body.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
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Update: 9-26-21 3:31PM PST I did some reading on different Qos settings and can see a potential problem, so I unchecked Qos completely. All the 2FA codes are coming through now. I have to wait another day before being sure, but I think that may have been the problem. It also had a problem logging on to WIFI which had that too. So, my question now is, What does Qos have to do with 2FA codes coming through. The codes are no normal MMS messages so is it the software in the router being old and not knowing about 2FA protocols with Qos or what?
Also, I had a heck of a time logging in to the site, and after I did, I had to reload the site in order to see my post which took too long to find. Where is the "See your Post Button"?