Hello all!
Not sure if this has been posted but I figured I would put up a new post. I am showing that I am connected to my home WiFi but I am not able to actually use it. For instance, I cannot open links or watch YouTube videos. I believe it is the router because I just had a Droid RAZR and my connections to the Internet were not dependable. Currently, I am using AT&T's 2Wire 2701HG-B Gateway router.
Are there any settings that should be adjusted within the router? Encryption type is WPA-PSK. Wireless mode is 802.11g/b.
I just got my S3 yesterday and so far WiFi works in other places. Also, I tried the #*0011# thing and that did not work for me. I've rebooted and factory reset my device. Nothing helps. Anything I can change?
Thanks in advance!
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
ooofest said:
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that I'm looking, no it doesn't have it listed there. My phone says its connoted though. I forgot the connection, rebooted the phone and did the #*0011# and reconnected the network. Still the same result. Any ideas?
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes, my iPad and two laptops.
2. There is a link speed and an IP address but the third number of the IP address on my phone is different than the third number of the IP addresses of the devices listed that connect to the router. I hope I made some type of sense saying that lol! There are about 6 devices listed that connect to the router and the first, second and third numbers are the same. My phone only have the first & second numbers in common.
3. didn't try that because I'm assuming something isn't right from the previous answer.
4. I typed in the pass phrase from my phone. I do not know of any other way to connect the device. I am not familiar with doing it from the admin panel especially since I'm not even seeing the device there.
Thanks again!
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
ooofest said:
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
iLogikk said:
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for all of your help!
Rams99 said:
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
iLogikk said:
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest. It's not your phone. I think you said you already did a factory reset on the modem/router correct? If not, do it and revert back to factory settings. If that doesn't work I would call att and tell them to send you another att modem/router. Tell them your wifi is down. Hopefully you'll get everything back to where it was. Good luck.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Fix
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr! http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
I tried this part but all of my settings were already set to match this....including it because it was part of the process.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by shakefry
My little sister received a cool Toshiba Thrive for Christmas but the thing will not connect to the proprietary router we have. The router isn't the problem because I've been able to connect a Macbook, 2 PCs, a 3DS and a smartphone to it and they all work as needed. When we put in the password for the connection it saying it is 'scanning' and 'connecting' then disconnects and starts going into a scanning loop saying is scanning then stopping then starting again.
I found a similar topic about this but the thread did not answer my question. I followed all of the steps of given solutions to no avail. And the constant suggestion to set the beacon or preamble differently is highly frustrating because the model router I have does not have such settings (I have gone through all the menus about ten times, literally).
I have also heard that the connection security could be a factor but I am not willing to downgrade my WPA 2 (TKIP & AES) to a WPA 1 or WEP, unless its absolutely necessary. I've been googling for hours so I need a solution or unfortunately we will have to return it for a more compatible device, which would suck because we got this for a good price (new).
Our router is a 2WIRE 3800 hgv-b (we have AT&T Uverse, idk if I should specify anything else)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi shakefry - Nice to meet you. You are 100 percent right you should not lower your security - WPA2 is the strongest and it does work fine with Thrive. That is what I use.
For some reason the ATT 2-wire routers are the most frustrating, but that is not a problem. We just might have to try a few different things, instead of getting it to connect the first time, so stay with me, OK? big brothers always have to help their little sisters...
----
1. You do not have MAC Filtering enabled,do you? If you do add the Thrive's MAC to the Router's list of permitted devices. Then try connecting.....
2. Not using MAC Filtering, or you added the thrive and still can not connect ......
OK, First ... Lets get the info your Windows Laptop has about your router when it connects
successfully to the 3800HG-B Router via wifi:
On your (Win7?) PC that is successfully connected by wifi to the same network, lets get some wifi settings. Vista - pretty much the same screens, XP a little different looking.
Click on the wifi signal lower right taskbar, open network and sharing center.
click on right side in blue, your network name
Pop up window - click on Details
the detail window opens ...
IPv4 Subnet Mask should be 255.255.255.0, if not we need to change it in the router settings.
This would prevent you from getting to the internet, but with all devices not just thrive.
Copy down IPv4 Default Gateway, and both IPv4 Servers
(Most routers will not need the actual IPv4 addresses in the devices DNS1 and DNS2, but yours might)
Now (no picture) close the DETAILS window and click on WIRELESS PROPERTIES. click on SECURITY tab, then click on SHOW PASSWORD. DO NOT CHANGE THIS FIELD, YOUR PC WILL DISCONNECT. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS FIELD IS THE CORRECT PASSWORD TO YOUR NETWORK.
(I just want to be 100 percent sure - this is the password you need to log the thrive on. You are pretty sharp with all this stuff, so you know it is case sensitive, don't mistake a "zero" for the cap letter O, etc.
We will try using these when we set Thrive's wifi settings for your network.
(Go to link to find the screenshot)
Now please check the following router summary page by logging on to your router.
Make sure, on the right side it, shows enough DHCP Available, and on that the router
address is still 192.168.1.254
And on the left, the page is exactly the same as below, none of the blank fields are filled in, right?
And the top button is still selected ..... 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 (default)
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THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL FIX CAME IN
Originally Posted by shakefry
"Would it possibly help if i DID enable filtering? then I could just put in all the device's MAC addresses and maybe it'll be more focused or something?"
No filtering wont "pull in" the devices, through the front door of the router. Filtering will just turn them around and kick them out again if they are not on the "invited to the party" List.
"edit: I just found a similar page, the design is slightly different. The router/gateway address is one number above my DHCP range and it says I have 178 available and there are 12 allocated (weird because we only have 10 devices connected to this thing that I know of)
OK so you have plenty of available IP addresses (DHCP). It is normal to see a couple more than the number of devices you have."
So now you have the info you need to connect the thrive (maybe):
1-Hold the Thrive in portrait mode so the keyboard does not hide the settings
...
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
enter 192.168.1.173. (a nice odd numbered unused ip, away from the auto assigned ones).
(You are making it an odd number (173) because if you buy, in the future, something like a network drive, or AppleTV, it will probably come with a nice "multiple of five" static number like 150 or 155 or 35
the "CONNECT" is greyed out .... right?
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
ARE YOU CONNECTED???
If NO
1- update the router's firmware - try connecting again
2- We will give up on the 3800 and add your second router, with different sets of DHCP ranges, and broadcasting on a non-conflicting channels to the 3800's channel ( channels 1, 6, and 11 do not conflict with each other - assign one router to channel one and the other to channel 11, and keep them a couple of feet away from each other.
shakefry, Please Let us know how it goes, which solution worked ... so other forum readers can help their little sisters too ....
we are standing by (actually in my comfy recliner waiting ..)
Thanks, bobj
aka Bojo, or Obi-Wan, or RouterRooter
I was able to connect to wifi consistently and access the Internet and YouTube app successfully. Hope this helps someone else!!!
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Glad to hear you got it going. I actually fixed mine about 3 days ago. I read somewhere changing your ssid inside the router helps. Well, I did and it actually worked. I haven't had a problem with my wifi signal yet. On mine what was happening also was whenever my phone would go into sleep for say 5min and I went to use the Internet immediately. It would take the wifi about 20-30secs for the wifi to wake up. So far, since changing my ssid I haven't had that problem at all.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
iLogikk said:
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr!
. . .
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
. . .
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
. . .
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting a followup.
Did you delete and re-add the WiFi network on your phone, configuring it for a static route and IP address that was in the range on the router, essentially?
- ooofest
Related
Hey world,
I'm having trouble with my Roger's branded Samsung Captivate SGH i-896's wifi. The phone is completely stock. When I connect to my wireless AP at home it doesn't seem to always work on the captivate... I had a htc magic before running all sorts of different roms and never had a problem like this before.
What happens is that I would connect to wifi at home and it would work, but if I leave wifi on the phone for an extended period of time and go back to the phone, wifi stops working.
It would show that i've successfully connected to my AP but no data would pass through my phone.
Disconnecting and reconnecting to the AP doesn't seem to work, the only way to fix it is to restart the phone. I'm not experiencing this problem with any of my laptops, netbooks or cellphones at home.
Security type is WPA2.
Is anyone else experiencing this problem? Anyone have an idea what could be causing this problem?
I have had this problem intermittently, So has my wife on her Captivate. No idea what causes it though. It's a pain because if WiFi is on, but not working, 3G doesn't kick in so apps just don't work.
my wife's captivate has this issue as well (but I don't on my captivate). It will work for a short period and then stop. We have a fios wifi router, not sure if that matters at all.
restarting the router and/or phone usually fixes the problem
mine is a linksys... hrnnn
I'm having the same problem on my new Captivate. Tried it on several different networks with the same results (shows connected but no data will transmit) before I took it back to ATT. They scratched their collective heads and rebooted (powered down and removed battery), which is a temporary fix, but its been working for two days now and I turn off WiFi unless I know I'm in range of a working hot spot.
I was having this same problem until I set my wifi policy to never sleep, dont know if it is a fix for everyone but it definitely fixed my problem.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Glad to hear I'm not alone!
I've been fighting with this issue for over a week now, it suddenly started occurring. I wonder if it was an app we all loaded that suddenly made this condition occur? If you look the phone is requesting an IP and if the IP given back by the router is the same one it already has the phone doesn't acknowledge that command. If the router is rebooted then a new IP is given, or what is considers new. This is a HUGE problem and I've put in some time looking at it, but one of the problems is that is comes and goes. What your router log and you'll the phone request an IP over and over again, all the while the router saying "here, take the same one you already have back".
If you use the app "Network Info II" you'll see the problem when it displays a "Device IP" at the top of 192.168.1.254 and WiFi IP address will be the correct one, in my case 192.168.1.108. When we have these two IP numbers showing differently the device is hosed. Rebooting will put them back in sync, but that is not the proper solution, we need to get to the bottom of this! I understand the WiFi IP address showing at the bottom but the "Device IP" I do not, why the difference? How can we affect the "Device IP", where does the device get that IP address?
Try the app called WiFi Fixer. That did the trick for me. There seems to be a bug of some sort that causes the phone to not release the IP address. Or you could use static IP but that worked only for a while.
Cheers.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
the app doesn't seem to work for me.... =(
DKirk said:
How can we affect the "Device IP", where does the device get that IP address?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone gets the device IP from either the service provider (when using edge/3g), or from the router (when using wifi). If an IP address is not provided, it uses a default IP address, which is always outside of the standard private IP block.
There are two ways to assign an IP address: dynamically and via static IP address. Dynamic = assigned by the router, static = pre-programmed by you. I don't know if you can set a static IP address on a phone, as I've never tried it.
I had a zyxel wireless n router in my house and could never get the wifi to work on my captivate. If it did work it lasted 5 seconds... I was really pissed.
I was thrilled to see that buffalo is now back in the market and with dd-wrt firmwares... So I picked up the most expensive one they had for $89.99.
it has a dlna client built in as well as bit torrent, also lets you use a spare usb hard drive as a nas... things i don't know....
However loaded up the wireless settings in 2 minutes and voila... perfectly working on my captivate... I have also found that this router works flawlessly with G+N devices and it is gigabit. I was able to stream 1080p video from my synology 411+ to my ps3, download on the captivate and be on two other laptops at the same time without any issues... I am very very impressed with the buffalo.
Here is the product info.
buffalo nfiniti wireless n high power router and access point. WZR-HP-G300NH
ohh and my laptops are connected fully at 300 mbps with this router wirelessly...
very very happy with it.... Oh and forgot to mention... once this started working with the buffalo i noticed my batter was much better running on wifi all the time. Also wifi file explorer pro works flawlessly.. I was able to upload a 700 meg movie to my captivate wirelessly in about 2 minutes.
WiFi fixer did not fix my problem as well. After turning WiFi on the device IP remains 192.168.1.254 while the WiFi IP is correctly set at 192.168.1.108. When these two IPs are different WiFi does not work and WiFi Fixer doesn't appear to see any problems here.
The router here is an Asus RT-N16 running Tomato and I'm fairly confident that isn't the problem. This is more like an internal routing issue inside the phone.
I don't think it's brand of router that matters... maybe a setting on our routers can fix this...?
I've searched the internet to find a sol'n but it looks like this wifi problem is a widespread problem for almost all galaxy S devices... ppl have made temporary workarounds (ie. setting a static ip) but ultimately, there is no fix for this problem.... gg...
bigbrotherbear said:
I've searched the internet to find a sol'n but it looks like this wifi problem is a widespread problem for almost all galaxy S devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It appears to go beyond Samsung Galaxy, I've seen the same issue with Nexus and Motorola Droids. VERY frustrating!
tylerdurdin said:
I was having this same problem until I set my wifi policy to never sleep, dont know if it is a fix for everyone but it definitely fixed my problem.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont know why nobody even notice that answer !!!!
had same problem on my milestone .. it is not a bug , wifi goes to sleep , its the way your phone is set up ... as its quoted here set it to never sleep and make sure your not using soem kind of app that will overwrite that setting ( like battery manager that for example could turn off wifi to save battery)
very easy to double check once your wifi is not working , go in wifi settings scan and check the wifi access points you normally use you ll see its set to disabled ..
the bug is it doesnt resume like it should. or gets re-enabled however you wanna call it . just re-enable it voila ! no reboot needed .
I got it working!!
This may be my first post here, so be kind...
Running Cognition v2.3b3 and Linksys WRT54G router. WIFI was working fine until I flashed to Cog 2.2 Then I could only use WIFI tethering, no other WIFI connection would work.
I tried setting up static IP and setting sleep to never. Didn't work. Changed router security from WEP to WPA Personal and got it working.
Phone settings: Go to Wi-Fi Settings, click menu, and goto advanced. I don't know if all the settings here are necessary, but I'll post what I have.
Port = 80
Use statis IP = checked
IP address = 192.168.1.103 (check your router assignments for an open address)
Gateway = 192.168.1.1
Netmask = 255.255.255.0
DNS 1 = (check your router config. For my router it's located under the Status, then router tabs.)
Router settings: (Under the Wireless, Wireless Security tab)
Security Mode = WPA Personal
WPA Algorithms = TKIP
WPA Shared Key = (your access key used when you attempt to athenticate from your phone)
Group Key Renewal = 3600 seconds
Write the access key down so you can use it to reconfigure the other wireless devices on your home network.
Good luck,
Glen
changing my router fixed the issue.
I have wifi running on my captivate for 8 hours at a time at work now and at home. Not one hiccup or disconnect, works 100%.
99% of wireless routers are crap. I work in IT and have dealt with most major brands and had been running linksys wireless routers with dd-wrt on them...
if you got a spare 90 bucks.. go to your microcenter or place where they sell buffalo routers and pick one up. If it doesn't work.. you can return it.
This worked for me
Going to a static IP worked for a few hours and then it stopped working as before. WiFi is set to not sleep.
When I ran the router without security I did not have this problem and since adding WPA2 w/AES+TKIP the problem has developed. The iPod Touch doesn't have a problem with it, nor my laptop or wireless ipTV set-top box, only the Android. I'm leaning towards setting up another router without security, on a different channel, and see if the problem disappears again. Here in 2010 we shouldn't be having this issue, but look on other forums and you'll find similar complaints with other brands of Android phones, it's not a Samsung thing.
Hey guys/gals, I have a problem with setting up the wifi on the tab 7.0 plus.
It sees my SSID - I enter in the password, it says obtaining IP - but is stays there never actually giving me an IP from my router. I get signal strength, etc. but I cant access the net.
So i decided to try to set a static IP, but that did not work either (but not sure I did this entirely correctly, so ...)
Any solutions? Whats the problem? it can be that hard....
Shftup said:
Hey guys/gals, I have a problem with setting up the wifi on the tab 7.0 plus.
It sees my SSID - I enter in the password, it says obtaining IP - but is stays there never actually giving me an IP from my router.
Any solutions? Whats the problem? it can be that hard....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The likely problem is that DHCP isn't running on your network (or isn't working.) DHCP is something that usually will run on your router and assigns IP numbers to devices that connect to it. It's also possible that DHCP is working fine, but you have MAC Address filtering enabled on your router (which basically limits which devices can attach to your network.)
Finally, it might simply be a router incompatibility (though I haven't seen that very often.)
As to how to resolve those things... I can't answer that... I don't have the same router you do (unless you just so happen to have a linksys E4200), so can't walk you through reconfiguring it.
Good luck
Gary
Had the same problem at the beginning when I unboxed my Tab for several times. After few resettings my router an Tab it finally started to work and since that moment couple of days without any issue. So don't know where was the problem..:-(
I also had DHCP issues upon unboxing the tablet. When it first powered up and tried to connect to my D-Link router, my Wi-Fi would go offline. All of my other connected devices would also go offline. After pondering this bizarre behavior for a few moments I decided to turn off the tablets wifi. The router and other devices magically came back online and connected.
After repeating this several times just to make sure I wasn't seeing things I assigned a static IP to the tablet. Everything worked fine after that.
What I think was happening there was that the tablet was trying to grab the router's IP address and that was knocking everything offline. This is just a guess though. Maybe someone with more network saavy than me has some thoughts?
thanks i will try these tonite and reply back.
My Tab is rooted, but I dont believe that matters, correct?
Yes it shouldn't matters...
So i played around, couldnt get DCHP to work for an IP. So i went back to creating a static IP - i missed 1 digit on DNS1 the first time which is why it didnt work last night. Once the static ip was up - boom.....magic. I called samsung support, they indicated that this is a know issue with some home routers (mine is a 2wire) and that a static IP is the solution.
thanks for all the tips above, much appreciated.
I have a Netgear WNDR4000 router. I am using WPA2 security, static internal IP addresses and a MAC table to control access to my home network. I have added multiple devices to my home network since I bought the router without any issues including an Android smartphone running gingerbread.
No matter what I do I cannot get my 300 to connect to the network. It does see the network SSID but it will not connect. I even tried the WPS button on the front of the router using the advanced settings on the 300 but still no luck.
I am beginning to think that the MAC address listed under the “About Device" menu item is not what the 300’s radio is actually broadcasting.
I have double- and triple-checked all the settings but I am getting nowhere.
Any help or suggestions you may have would be appreciated.
Does your smartphone support tethering? Connect the 300 to it to verify MAC address. You could TEMPORARILY reconfig your router to be open (no security) and confirm MAC address. Turn off MAC filtering to see if that is it. Get it to connect to something wide opeb and then begin layering on the security.
You have set up your static settings on the 300, correct? Sounds like you have DHCP disabled on the router...
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA
Thank you for your response.
I did finally decide to take all the security of the router and the 300 connected right away. Then I checked the router's "attached devices" list and it did verify the MAC address that the 300 was displaying. So I was able to clear that as an issue.
I still could not get it to connect with my WPA2 security turned on (my router needs that level of security to put out "N" speeds) on the 2g network.
Right; I have DHCP disabled on the router. All my devices, wired and wireless, get an assigned internal IP address and their MAC addresses are loaded into a table.
Every other device I've added to the router connects without a problem.
I decided to send the 300 back and I'll just wait for the Infinity to hit the market.
Thanks again for your help.
Hope your next one works as it should. Mine connects fine using WPA or WPA2, multiple manufacturers. Still waiting for OTA, rooted running .17 firmware.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA
ptgay49 said:
Thank you for your response.
I did finally decide to take all the security of the router and the 300 connected right away. Then I checked the router's "attached devices" list and it did verify the MAC address that the 300 was displaying. So I was able to clear that as an issue.
I still could not get it to connect with my WPA2 security turned on (my router needs that level of security to put out "N" speeds) on the 2g network.
Right; I have DHCP disabled on the router. All my devices, wired and wireless, get an assigned internal IP address and their MAC addresses are loaded into a table.
Every other device I've added to the router connects without a problem.
I decided to send the 300 back and I'll just wait for the Infinity to hit the market.
Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wtf... Send it back.... Wow!
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I'm having issues with my internet and am unable to do certain things that are sensitive to the NAT type. I have an LG Stylo 2 (Sprint), Windows 7 PC, Linksys router, Xbox One. Here's the order things are connected in
LGLS775>USB Tethered via PDANet>Windows 7 PC>Ethernet wire>Linksys router>Ethernet wire>Xbox One
I'm not sure how to set things up to fix the NAT type. Connection details: 60ms ping. 28 download. 7 upload. 100% packet loss.
I can still play certain games and access certain websites. But not everything. PLEASE DO NO TELL ME TO GO TO A DIFFERENT FORUM! ONLY POST HELPFUL ANSWERS
3 years later.
This is almost the same setup I'm working with but im using the wifi instead of usb on those parts.
For anyone having these issues I've got a couple things to try.
You can connect directly to pdanet via WiFi with pretty much any device (that I've seen so far) if you're able to set the proxy setting to manual using the ip given in pdanet with the port 8000. For me it would be 192.168.49.1:8000.
Or if you have to or just prefer to use a PDANet -> PC -> Router -> Device setup.
I used to have a much worse time with disconnects and error codes playing Destiny 2 on Steam, I still have problems here and there, sometimes often still. Ive got a good feeling though that what i did, actually improved my situation at least a bit.
In pdanet top right little menu with "Help" and "Dev Code", select IPv6 Support, then Prioritize IPv4.
Then in Windows, head to Network and Sharing, Change adapter settings, right click > properties on the adapter doing ICS then (what i did) uncheck "Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6)", "QoS Packet Scheduler", and anything else that isn't default, in my case, Npcap Packet Drivers.
I actually can't be sure that any of these really did anything but im much less frustrated than i used to be.
Also in my case im using a Netgear in AP mode, which ends up with a different local ip than ones that pdanet give. For me, after pdanet is adequately connected to the router, it seems that most of my Android devices work without further setup but some devices require setting a static ip, which should be easy to find using "arp -a" or "ipconfig" in cmd.
-In My Case-
The gateway was 192.168.137.1 so i choose any 2 digit number after 137. for the main (connecting device's) ip. Example. 192.168.137.23
So when connecting device to router via WiFi you will choose to set Manual/Static IP then after that the settings should look something like...
IP: 192.168.137.23
Gateway: 192.168.137.1
DNS: 192.168.137.1
Secondary DNS: 8.8.8.8
If v these v are set automatically or not required then you should be able to ignore them
Network prefix length: 24
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
I'm still trying to find other ways to set things that may be better but so far these are working okay for me. Don't hesitate to ask any question if clarification is needed, i understand a lot of things i post can be confusing. I hope at least some of this was helpful in any way!
CornholeOS_x86 said:
3 years later.
This is almost the same setup I'm working with but im using the wifi instead of usb on those parts.
For anyone having these issues I've got a couple things to try.
You can connect directly to pdanet via WiFi with pretty much any device (that I've seen so far) if you're able to set the proxy setting to manual using the ip given in pdanet with the port 8000. For me it would be 192.168.49.1:8000.
Or if you have to or just prefer to use a PDANet -> PC -> Router -> Device setup.
I used to have a much worse time with disconnects and error codes playing Destiny 2 on Steam, I still have problems here and there, sometimes often still. Ive got a good feeling though that what i did, actually improved my situation at least a bit.
In pdanet top right little menu with "Help" and "Dev Code", select IPv6 Support, then Prioritize IPv4.
Then in Windows, head to Network and Sharing, Change adapter settings, right click > properties on the adapter doing ICS then (what i did) uncheck "Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6)", "QoS Packet Scheduler", and anything else that isn't default, in my case, Npcap Packet Drivers.
I actually can't be sure that any of these really did anything but im much less frustrated than i used to be.
Also in my case im using a Netgear in AP mode, which ends up with a different local ip than ones that pdanet give. For me, after pdanet is adequately connected to the router, it seems that most of my Android devices work without further setup but some devices require setting a static ip, which should be easy to find using "arp -a" or "ipconfig" in cmd.
-In My Case-
The gateway was 192.168.137.1 so i choose any 2 digit number after 137. for the main (connecting device's) ip. Example. 192.168.137.23
So when connecting device to router via WiFi you will choose to set Manual/Static IP then after that the settings should look something like...
IP: 192.168.137.23
Gateway: 192.168.137.1
DNS: 192.168.137.1
Secondary DNS: 8.8.8.8
If v these v are set automatically or not required then you should be able to ignore them
Network prefix length: 24
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
I'm still trying to find other ways to set things that may be better but so far these are working okay for me. Don't hesitate to ask any question if clarification is needed, i understand a lot of things i post can be confusing. I hope at least some of this was helpful in any way!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I actually figured it out a while back but now I'm in the same boat since I've moved to a place with no highspeed again. Same basis except I'm now T-Mobile, using a VPN and the Hotspot VPN APK. Same connection route. If I remember correctly there was an IP address error with the 137.anything. I'll post an update soon.
Anything better then pdanet ? That bypass data speed throttle after using so much???
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
Slim K said:
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that, great idea! What I find though, with Extenders, is that they require you to have your base station WIFI on 24/7 where my set-up the base, which is right next to me, is off and the 2nd router is WIFI on. This keeps me from being 2.4 or 5.0 waves passing through my body.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: 9-26-21 3:31PM PST I did some reading on different Qos settings and can see a potential problem, so I unchecked Qos completely. All the 2FA codes are coming through now. I have to wait another day before being sure, but I think that may have been the problem. It also had a problem logging on to WIFI which had that too. So, my question now is, What does Qos have to do with 2FA codes coming through. The codes are no normal MMS messages so is it the software in the router being old and not knowing about 2FA protocols with Qos or what?
Also, I had a heck of a time logging in to the site, and after I did, I had to reload the site in order to see my post which took too long to find. Where is the "See your Post Button"?