i'm dealing with this weird issue,
i have set up a wifi network in my home consisting of a router and a repeater,and they have now eliminated the dead spots in my home.
I tested whether mobile devices can switch to the nearest access point when they are moved,while they are connected to the wifi network
laptops switched to the nearest access points as they were moved
unfortunately my arc was not able to...it depended on the same access point as it moved away, even if i keep it next to the repeater it would not pick it's signal.
this would happen the other way around as well if i connect via repeater and bring the phone near the router it would not pick router's signal
any work-a-rounds
HELP!!
Also running doom kernel i had to flash the wifi modules could this have affected in anyway
Sent from my LT15i using XDA
I know this post is a bit old...but a good solution for this issue is Best Wifi:
Description
Do you have a WiFi extender in your home or office, or even a second WiFi Access Point Name (APN)? You do? Then ‘Best WiFi’ is for you!
‘Best WiFi’ is a lightweight application that automatically switches between saved APNs based on their signal strengths. So if while you are pacing in the office or walking around at home, and the signal strength drops below the pre-set level, ‘Best WiFi’ will go through your saved APNs and automatically connect to the one with the best signal at the time.
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Click to collapse
This app works well to switch between different saved SSIDs that are listed in Android and has eliminated the issue of losing connectivity on my home network due to my phone staying connected to a weak signal and losing its ip address/not surfing.
Thank you
Same problem here, but this app does not do make any difference
Useful app, you deserve a "thank you"
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
SixSixSevenSeven said:
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
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It is AT&T's router. I have Uverse and this is the one they gave us.Motorola should be who i call if anyone but the problem is Microsoft's ..All others have no problem connecting
shEEEsh said:
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
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Never had an issue with any form of encryption with the Surface RT - it's got the standard windows 8 wifi stack and connects to anything I throw at it, including WPA2/AES.
Not sure why you're having an issue, but you haven't given us much to go on for troubleshooting.
And getting a real router isn't possible?
Talon Pro said:
And getting a real router isn't possible?
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Apparently this (MOTOROLA NVG510) router is the only one I can use in my area with U-Verse.
Thats bull. Is it a combo router/modem? If so you should still be able to hook up a wireless router off of that if it has at least one ethernet port.
see thats what BT claimed when they installed BT infinity at my grandparents but we dont have the stock router running off of it
Thanks for the suggestions. I returned the Surface. I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else. On the other hand. Annoys me that every gadget I own (and there are many) connects with no problem EXCEPT the surface.
diane
Your router is old. Something is probably interfering with the Surface Pro's connectivity. Your SP's wifi card isn't busted if it can connect without encryption. It shouldn't have a problem. I'd suggest ditching the modem's wifi and buying a router and using that instead for wifi and leave the modem alone.
99% sure it's a setting in your router that's causing you to not be able to connect a new device through wifi.
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
Trig0r said:
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
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the problem was for sure the modem. There are no settings to tweak... It's gotta be the worst modem on the planet-but then U.verse doesn't feel any faster than my old ATT DSL connection. I asked to have my DSL back and ATT said that was not an option. ATT told me this modern is the only one for my area. Maybe it is time I looked into Brighthouse. I am sure there is a way around that modem but in my frustration I returned the Surface. Very sure I will buy another Surface . . I still have my Samsung Slate 7 with Windows 8... Another plus is it has a 3G connection. the more I use Windows 8 the more I like it, wish the Slate was a bit smaller.
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
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We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
>We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
OP's name is Diane.
Secondly, as posted in the OP, the device is a Motorola NVG 510. A 10-second lookup would show that it's a combined ADSL2+router, and it's not a simple matter of swapping out a router. Combined-function devices are SOP for leased models, since it saves the company money over having two boxes.
http://google.com/search?q=Motorola+NVG+510
It's a Surface problem. The user shouldn't be expected to mess with things like router settings and learn to be a geek. The device in question is obviously in popular use, and it's up to MS to get it right. The OP did the correct thing in returning the Surface.
However, for those with more tech savvy, the above search produces this help page for the modem+router,
http://www.ron-berman.com/2011/11/24/motorola-nvg510-help-page-for-att-u-verse-users/
which has both the manual and more importantly, a FAQ to troubleshoot connection issues, and links to more appropriate forums to ask further questions on this particular topic.
As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection. Yes your ISP's router will still be broadcasting but so will the new 3rd party one, you just connect to that. This is a configuration I have tested with a BT homehub and some ****ty Netgear.
To access the new routers settings, unplug it from the ISPs router first and then access the settings in the normal way. or if you can find the new local IP for the additional router you can use that.
>As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection.
Either the new router has to be reconfig'ed into an AP, or the old router needs to be disabled. Can't have both routers active. Likewise, the old wifi needs to be disabled, or the new one reconfigured that they don't conflict. Regardless, it's not plug and play. Either or both units would need configuration.
The household Internet router is the single most critical piece of equipment there is, because if the user messes up, s/he loses Internet access ENTIRELY and access to any further help. Without local help, that may mean several days' downtime and an expensive bill for onsite repair. I would NEVER, EVER tell a non-tech user to reconfigure his/her router, especially when the person said "I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else."
Everyone here has good intentions and want to help. Then, the first thing to helping is to listen to what is said, and gauge the person's comfort level with tech. No one even bothered to check up on the OP's router model.
The OP has a stable, working setup. Anything that jeopardizes that setup is bad advice, not unless you are willing to foot the onsite service cost for the person. The preferred solution is to remove the known-problem component, which in this case is the Surface.
PS: A long shot is to go into the Surface's Device Manager, select the Properties tab of the wifi card, and muck around with the advanced settings (if there are any).
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
That said, if you wanted port forwarding and such to work smoothly, it *would* be best to turn off DHCP and NAT on the inner router. However, that's not necessary to simply get Internet access via the router.
GoodDayToDie said:
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
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Which is precisely what I originally said.
I have daisy chained a cheap as **** netgear router to my BT homehub without any setting changes at all. I was actually using it as an ethernet extension cable pretty much, I didnt have a single cable long enough so I plugged one between the homehub/main router and the netgear and one between the netgear and a raspberry pi. Would you look at that, my laptop can connect to the netgear and get internet access from it, the pi also connects via its ethernet port perfectly.
My grandparents use a set of homeplugs, how do they connect? daisy chaining.
One of my mates has 3 ethernet devices in one room but only one LAN port drilled into the wall (he had an electrician out once to actually have LAN sockets fitted in a few rooms). Solution: cheap wireless router connected to the LAN port in the wall. Other devices connected to the router. Router had 6 ports so he still has 2 left over. Devices connect to it fine. Originally it was default settings but he has since gone and disabled the routers wifi as he doesnt use it.
That said. I came across a linksys unit once which refused to be used as an access point of any kind. But that was only once.
>You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
Having nested routers (ie segmenting the network) is a prescription for myriad network problems in the hands of a non-tech user. Again, listen to what the OP said, rather than assume everyone is a geek who knows what DHCP and NAT means, let alone how to change them.
Even if the OP can get the new router configured and running properly, the potential for problem remains. When ISP service goes down, the ISP tech will remote troubleshoot the leased equipment (the old router), since that's the ISP's responsibility. With user equipment attached, troubleshooting responsibility passes on to the user, which the OP has stated in no uncertain terms that she's not capable of.
The point isn't to get Internet access. The OP already has Internet access. The point is to get the Surface to connect to the network, but NOT AT THE EXPENSE of adding networking complications that the OP can't handle.
>I have daisy chained...
This suffices for simple Internet access, until you run into programs or devices that break because of the multiple redirections. I doubt UPNP/DLNA works on nested NATs. Ditto discovery. Devices/periphs on one network segment won't be able to connect to those on another segment.
The wifi will work, but given that most 2.4GHz wifi default to channel 1 or 6, it will likely conflict with the old wifi and work POORLY when both are active.
I have two wifi APs with the same SSID and it will stick to one of them with next-to-useless connection while standing near the other one. which would have much better connection.
This works fine on my Nexus 9 tablet and even better on my iPad and my wifes iPhone..
I tried some possible workarounds like Always allow wi-fi roam scans but I didn't see any effect.
This fix for SG3 might work but i havn't rooted.
Even more solution suggestions
Doesn't this bother anyone else ?
wifi has a bug in 6.X and its been talked about before.
my problem some times when i want to connect to another wifi it connects for a 1 sec and then drops it
i turn off wifi and back on and it will connect
i'm trying the app "Wifi roaming fix" but i think it causes the wifi to disconnect for a couple of seconds when it switches.
Strange that this seems to be of no interest to anyone. Is there indeed nobody who is using one or more WLAN APs in addition to his/her WLAN router? I can't believe that.
I have two APs (Main router and 2nd router as AP) but not for more coverage, my main router pushes 5GHz wifi, the second AP pushes 2.4GHz for older clients that can't connect to 5GHz
The 5GHz router is placed on a wall in the middle of the house and the entire house has great coverage so no need for more APs
I have more APs in my house with OpenWRT and 802.11r aka Fast Roaming configured and roaming between all my APs is working perfectly with all my devices.
Note 10.1 2014 Wifi, S7 Exynos and all other also.
With APs configured as "normal" ap with the same SSID and key i had the same issue as you mentioned.
I think your phone dont know that it could roam between your two APs.
If you could not run OpenWRT on your APs for 802.11r, you could try to enable WDS on both APs even if your APs connected by wire.
I have four handheld Android devices and, currently, 3 standalone WAPs plus Verizon's FIOS router.
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None of the four devices can maintain a connection to any of the standalone WAPs or the router for more than a half-second or so: they solicit the PW, Authenticate, connect briefly, and then drop the connection.
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I normally have only one WAP, but added the two just to make sure the problem was not in the WAP. Ditto Verizon's router, whose WiFi is normally turned off, but turned on now for troubleshooting.
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For the life of me, I cannot think of any changes I have made in the week leading up to the onset of this problem.
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One of the standalone WAPs is an Orbi Mesh system, but currently with no satellites - the satellites having started to act weird with onset of the problem and therefore having been turned off.
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I also have two instances of AndroidTV running: one on a Sony Bravia TV and the other on an NVIDIA SHIELD box. And, weirdly, both of them are able to hold a WiFi connection - but UNABLE to hold a Ethernet cable connection. Same appearance as the handhelds over WiFi: connection gets dropped, only almost instantly so the screen just kind of vibrates with the connected.
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If I turn off all standalone WAPs, leaving only the WAP in the Verizon router, the problem persists - with the Verizon router's WAP on channel three and, according to the WiFi Manager Android app, no competing signal sources on channel 3.
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The problem persists even with the handhelds within 10 feet of the various WAPs.
This started about a week ago. Before that, no problems. And I don't *think* I have changed anything.
Right now, the only thing between me and hiring somebody to troubleshoot the problem is the weirdness of the problem - and the fear that their billing by the hour could cost me too much.
Can anybody point me in some direction?
We have set up a WiFi router at our summer house and all devices bar my OnePlus 8 connects without problem to the WiFi. My phone connects to the WiFi but not the internet. Have restarted the phone and removed and added the WiFi connection but no luck. Any idea what's going on?
I had this problem with my oneplus 8, European version, where at times internet connection would drop, but wifi was still connected so the phone was in effect blocked since I use VoWiFi both voice calls and data was blocked.
The problem turned out to be between my router and the oneplus 8. I had to go into the settings of the router and disable a feature called "band steering". This setting will make the two different wifi gateways inside the router, the 2.4 ghz and the 5 ghz appear as one and the same with the same SSID name. This is supposed to simplify setting up devices with wifi but is known to cause problems sometimes.
As soon as I had separated the two and given them different names, I no longer have a problem with internet access dropping from the wifi.
I have no idea where the fault happens, I only know that I have had to disable band steering with another router I had before. I think this feature might be a bit unstable.
No idea what's happened but this morning it just worked.