I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
SixSixSevenSeven said:
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
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It is AT&T's router. I have Uverse and this is the one they gave us.Motorola should be who i call if anyone but the problem is Microsoft's ..All others have no problem connecting
shEEEsh said:
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
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Click to collapse
Never had an issue with any form of encryption with the Surface RT - it's got the standard windows 8 wifi stack and connects to anything I throw at it, including WPA2/AES.
Not sure why you're having an issue, but you haven't given us much to go on for troubleshooting.
And getting a real router isn't possible?
Talon Pro said:
And getting a real router isn't possible?
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Apparently this (MOTOROLA NVG510) router is the only one I can use in my area with U-Verse.
Thats bull. Is it a combo router/modem? If so you should still be able to hook up a wireless router off of that if it has at least one ethernet port.
see thats what BT claimed when they installed BT infinity at my grandparents but we dont have the stock router running off of it
Thanks for the suggestions. I returned the Surface. I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else. On the other hand. Annoys me that every gadget I own (and there are many) connects with no problem EXCEPT the surface.
diane
Your router is old. Something is probably interfering with the Surface Pro's connectivity. Your SP's wifi card isn't busted if it can connect without encryption. It shouldn't have a problem. I'd suggest ditching the modem's wifi and buying a router and using that instead for wifi and leave the modem alone.
99% sure it's a setting in your router that's causing you to not be able to connect a new device through wifi.
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
Trig0r said:
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
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the problem was for sure the modem. There are no settings to tweak... It's gotta be the worst modem on the planet-but then U.verse doesn't feel any faster than my old ATT DSL connection. I asked to have my DSL back and ATT said that was not an option. ATT told me this modern is the only one for my area. Maybe it is time I looked into Brighthouse. I am sure there is a way around that modem but in my frustration I returned the Surface. Very sure I will buy another Surface . . I still have my Samsung Slate 7 with Windows 8... Another plus is it has a 3G connection. the more I use Windows 8 the more I like it, wish the Slate was a bit smaller.
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
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We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
>We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
OP's name is Diane.
Secondly, as posted in the OP, the device is a Motorola NVG 510. A 10-second lookup would show that it's a combined ADSL2+router, and it's not a simple matter of swapping out a router. Combined-function devices are SOP for leased models, since it saves the company money over having two boxes.
http://google.com/search?q=Motorola+NVG+510
It's a Surface problem. The user shouldn't be expected to mess with things like router settings and learn to be a geek. The device in question is obviously in popular use, and it's up to MS to get it right. The OP did the correct thing in returning the Surface.
However, for those with more tech savvy, the above search produces this help page for the modem+router,
http://www.ron-berman.com/2011/11/24/motorola-nvg510-help-page-for-att-u-verse-users/
which has both the manual and more importantly, a FAQ to troubleshoot connection issues, and links to more appropriate forums to ask further questions on this particular topic.
As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection. Yes your ISP's router will still be broadcasting but so will the new 3rd party one, you just connect to that. This is a configuration I have tested with a BT homehub and some ****ty Netgear.
To access the new routers settings, unplug it from the ISPs router first and then access the settings in the normal way. or if you can find the new local IP for the additional router you can use that.
>As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection.
Either the new router has to be reconfig'ed into an AP, or the old router needs to be disabled. Can't have both routers active. Likewise, the old wifi needs to be disabled, or the new one reconfigured that they don't conflict. Regardless, it's not plug and play. Either or both units would need configuration.
The household Internet router is the single most critical piece of equipment there is, because if the user messes up, s/he loses Internet access ENTIRELY and access to any further help. Without local help, that may mean several days' downtime and an expensive bill for onsite repair. I would NEVER, EVER tell a non-tech user to reconfigure his/her router, especially when the person said "I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else."
Everyone here has good intentions and want to help. Then, the first thing to helping is to listen to what is said, and gauge the person's comfort level with tech. No one even bothered to check up on the OP's router model.
The OP has a stable, working setup. Anything that jeopardizes that setup is bad advice, not unless you are willing to foot the onsite service cost for the person. The preferred solution is to remove the known-problem component, which in this case is the Surface.
PS: A long shot is to go into the Surface's Device Manager, select the Properties tab of the wifi card, and muck around with the advanced settings (if there are any).
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
That said, if you wanted port forwarding and such to work smoothly, it *would* be best to turn off DHCP and NAT on the inner router. However, that's not necessary to simply get Internet access via the router.
GoodDayToDie said:
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
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Which is precisely what I originally said.
I have daisy chained a cheap as **** netgear router to my BT homehub without any setting changes at all. I was actually using it as an ethernet extension cable pretty much, I didnt have a single cable long enough so I plugged one between the homehub/main router and the netgear and one between the netgear and a raspberry pi. Would you look at that, my laptop can connect to the netgear and get internet access from it, the pi also connects via its ethernet port perfectly.
My grandparents use a set of homeplugs, how do they connect? daisy chaining.
One of my mates has 3 ethernet devices in one room but only one LAN port drilled into the wall (he had an electrician out once to actually have LAN sockets fitted in a few rooms). Solution: cheap wireless router connected to the LAN port in the wall. Other devices connected to the router. Router had 6 ports so he still has 2 left over. Devices connect to it fine. Originally it was default settings but he has since gone and disabled the routers wifi as he doesnt use it.
That said. I came across a linksys unit once which refused to be used as an access point of any kind. But that was only once.
>You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
Having nested routers (ie segmenting the network) is a prescription for myriad network problems in the hands of a non-tech user. Again, listen to what the OP said, rather than assume everyone is a geek who knows what DHCP and NAT means, let alone how to change them.
Even if the OP can get the new router configured and running properly, the potential for problem remains. When ISP service goes down, the ISP tech will remote troubleshoot the leased equipment (the old router), since that's the ISP's responsibility. With user equipment attached, troubleshooting responsibility passes on to the user, which the OP has stated in no uncertain terms that she's not capable of.
The point isn't to get Internet access. The OP already has Internet access. The point is to get the Surface to connect to the network, but NOT AT THE EXPENSE of adding networking complications that the OP can't handle.
>I have daisy chained...
This suffices for simple Internet access, until you run into programs or devices that break because of the multiple redirections. I doubt UPNP/DLNA works on nested NATs. Ditto discovery. Devices/periphs on one network segment won't be able to connect to those on another segment.
The wifi will work, but given that most 2.4GHz wifi default to channel 1 or 6, it will likely conflict with the old wifi and work POORLY when both are active.
Related
WTF!! Anyone know hot to get the tablet to connect to a network with SSID hidden. Tried 3 routers, no deal. Running vegan 5.1, would swith back to TNT if necessary.
Thanks.
raggededge said:
WTF!! Anyone know hot to get the tablet to connect to a network with SSID hidden. Tried 3 routers, no deal. Running vegan 5.1, would swith back to TNT if necessary.
Thanks.
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Click to collapse
I had a similar issue. I have two routers: The westell, it connected to no worries. The Cisco/Linksys I couldn't connect to to save my life. As soon as I let the ssid broadcast, it picked it up and connected. I can even re-hide it again, and it will connect.
I've tried a few ROM's on my Incredible, and the same thing. It connects to the Westell, no worries. But I have to broadcast the SSID for the phone to connect to the Linksys. It turns out Android is somewhat well-known for this. and I believe it to be a system issue, not specific to any ROM or branch.
In reality though, NOT broadcasting the SSID doesn't add much in the way of privacy. A script-kiddie with a WinMo 5 fone can find and connect to them. I used to use my Wizzie to find and connect to WiFi networks when I traveled. Just make sure you are using a secure connection like WPA2 or something.
Tell me about it it drives me insane!!! I'm using a dlink dsl-2740b with/ without MAC filter and i can't get it to find my hidden SSID.
did the kernel mod 2.6.32.28 - from pershoot still no go. Anyone else found a fix?
I'm running an old Linksys WRT54v1.1 with DD-WRT installed...
Non-Broadcast SSID, MAC Filtering, WPA2 -- no issues...
Worked for me right away....on all ROMs (so far) -- Stock, TnTLite, & Vegan...My phone has Cyanogenmod so I'd assume it will work as well...
I'd highly recommend DD-WRT as a new firmware for your Cisco/Linksys if it is a supported model...
aaltieri said:
In reality though, NOT broadcasting the SSID doesn't add much in the way of privacy. A script-kiddie with a WinMo 5 fone can find and connect to them. I used to use my Wizzie to find and connect to WiFi networks when I traveled. Just make sure you are using a secure connection like WPA2 or something.
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I know it's totally not the point of this post but, exactly.
It in fact creates more problems than it does any type of good on any level at all because it makes it more trouble for you, the user to connect to your own network. Some chipsets have issues connecting to hidden SSIDs as well, as shows with the Tablet. Phones can have the problem too. Computers less so just because of the detailed configurations of the software.
You don't even have to be a script kiddie or hacker, there are easily downloaded, well known tools that show hidden SSIDs, along with mac addresses of any and all routers and also which sniff wifi signals. So pretty much anyone that knows more than how to check emails can get into your network if they need/want to and you're not using WEP. WEP is of course only a step up and still simple to get into with just that much more effort (not much, at all).
In these days and times in terms of privacy, if you're not at the very least using WPA with AES then just go ahead and leave it open.
Okay folks got a bit of a strage development that I could use some help with.
As we all know, Android does not currently support Wifi proxy servers, at least it has no way to access the settings. I live on campus and the wifi is piped through a proxy server to the internet and I found the lack of wireless to be quite annoying (especially the hole it was burning in my pocket!)
Anyway, I had bought a wireless router to have internet all around my apartment. The network is hidden and my HTC Desire wasn't connecting to it. I eventually found out that this was because the network was braodcasting in mixed b/g/n mode. I changed it to b/g only and the phone connected.
I hadn't really expected it to connect to the internet because there was still no proxy set up but to my surprise it did! I checked my data counters and only the Wifi one was going up. The network my router is connected to uses the same proxy as the campus wireless so there is definately a proxy.
An even stranger development is the fact that since then, when I connect directly to the campus wireless network (not to my router) the internet still works. I keep checking the data counters and its not using up any 3G data. I checked my IP address online and it corresponds to the campus IP address. I also switched off the wifi and checked again and the IP changed to my cell provider.
I haven't tried connecting to a different wireless network since then and I didn't change any settings. I'm using an unrooted HTC Desire with stock ROMs. I had downloaded WifiAce but I since removed that and the proxy still works.
So what I'm wondering is, can anybody confirm this or give any thoughts on how this is working? Does anyone also know if the data counters available on the market acurately track data usage or do they simply assume that if the wifi is connected that the phone is downloading via wireless and not cell.
If anyone has any thoughts on this or could go out of their way to try and confirm it I'd be grateful.
(update) I found that it doesn't work on one of the networks, the oldest one on campus. Not sure why this is yet
You are correct. I found out this a long time ago. It also happens with some wireless MAC Laptops. You have to define the broadcasting channel.
Stupid Question, I'm Sure...
Omnichron said:
You are correct. I found out this a long time ago. It also happens with some wireless MAC Laptops. You have to define the broadcasting channel.
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I wonder if you could explain what "defining the broadcasting channel" means...in case I occasion similar difficulties joining a public wifi network?
It's a dumb question, I'm sure...but I've never actually owned a router.
Between my dearly-departed, slightly hacked XV6800, followed by Tetherberry on my 9530...Wireless Tether on my CM7 Droid (only in a pinch) and the Clear Wireless dongle on my laptop (shared via Connectify), I think I'm missing several years of typical AP experience.
Hello all!
Not sure if this has been posted but I figured I would put up a new post. I am showing that I am connected to my home WiFi but I am not able to actually use it. For instance, I cannot open links or watch YouTube videos. I believe it is the router because I just had a Droid RAZR and my connections to the Internet were not dependable. Currently, I am using AT&T's 2Wire 2701HG-B Gateway router.
Are there any settings that should be adjusted within the router? Encryption type is WPA-PSK. Wireless mode is 802.11g/b.
I just got my S3 yesterday and so far WiFi works in other places. Also, I tried the #*0011# thing and that did not work for me. I've rebooted and factory reset my device. Nothing helps. Anything I can change?
Thanks in advance!
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
ooofest said:
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
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Now that I'm looking, no it doesn't have it listed there. My phone says its connoted though. I forgot the connection, rebooted the phone and did the #*0011# and reconnected the network. Still the same result. Any ideas?
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
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1. Yes, my iPad and two laptops.
2. There is a link speed and an IP address but the third number of the IP address on my phone is different than the third number of the IP addresses of the devices listed that connect to the router. I hope I made some type of sense saying that lol! There are about 6 devices listed that connect to the router and the first, second and third numbers are the same. My phone only have the first & second numbers in common.
3. didn't try that because I'm assuming something isn't right from the previous answer.
4. I typed in the pass phrase from my phone. I do not know of any other way to connect the device. I am not familiar with doing it from the admin panel especially since I'm not even seeing the device there.
Thanks again!
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
ooofest said:
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
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Click to collapse
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
iLogikk said:
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
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Click to collapse
Thank you for all of your help!
Rams99 said:
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
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Click to collapse
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
iLogikk said:
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest. It's not your phone. I think you said you already did a factory reset on the modem/router correct? If not, do it and revert back to factory settings. If that doesn't work I would call att and tell them to send you another att modem/router. Tell them your wifi is down. Hopefully you'll get everything back to where it was. Good luck.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Fix
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr! http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
I tried this part but all of my settings were already set to match this....including it because it was part of the process.
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Originally Posted by shakefry
My little sister received a cool Toshiba Thrive for Christmas but the thing will not connect to the proprietary router we have. The router isn't the problem because I've been able to connect a Macbook, 2 PCs, a 3DS and a smartphone to it and they all work as needed. When we put in the password for the connection it saying it is 'scanning' and 'connecting' then disconnects and starts going into a scanning loop saying is scanning then stopping then starting again.
I found a similar topic about this but the thread did not answer my question. I followed all of the steps of given solutions to no avail. And the constant suggestion to set the beacon or preamble differently is highly frustrating because the model router I have does not have such settings (I have gone through all the menus about ten times, literally).
I have also heard that the connection security could be a factor but I am not willing to downgrade my WPA 2 (TKIP & AES) to a WPA 1 or WEP, unless its absolutely necessary. I've been googling for hours so I need a solution or unfortunately we will have to return it for a more compatible device, which would suck because we got this for a good price (new).
Our router is a 2WIRE 3800 hgv-b (we have AT&T Uverse, idk if I should specify anything else)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi shakefry - Nice to meet you. You are 100 percent right you should not lower your security - WPA2 is the strongest and it does work fine with Thrive. That is what I use.
For some reason the ATT 2-wire routers are the most frustrating, but that is not a problem. We just might have to try a few different things, instead of getting it to connect the first time, so stay with me, OK? big brothers always have to help their little sisters...
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1. You do not have MAC Filtering enabled,do you? If you do add the Thrive's MAC to the Router's list of permitted devices. Then try connecting.....
2. Not using MAC Filtering, or you added the thrive and still can not connect ......
OK, First ... Lets get the info your Windows Laptop has about your router when it connects
successfully to the 3800HG-B Router via wifi:
On your (Win7?) PC that is successfully connected by wifi to the same network, lets get some wifi settings. Vista - pretty much the same screens, XP a little different looking.
Click on the wifi signal lower right taskbar, open network and sharing center.
click on right side in blue, your network name
Pop up window - click on Details
the detail window opens ...
IPv4 Subnet Mask should be 255.255.255.0, if not we need to change it in the router settings.
This would prevent you from getting to the internet, but with all devices not just thrive.
Copy down IPv4 Default Gateway, and both IPv4 Servers
(Most routers will not need the actual IPv4 addresses in the devices DNS1 and DNS2, but yours might)
Now (no picture) close the DETAILS window and click on WIRELESS PROPERTIES. click on SECURITY tab, then click on SHOW PASSWORD. DO NOT CHANGE THIS FIELD, YOUR PC WILL DISCONNECT. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS FIELD IS THE CORRECT PASSWORD TO YOUR NETWORK.
(I just want to be 100 percent sure - this is the password you need to log the thrive on. You are pretty sharp with all this stuff, so you know it is case sensitive, don't mistake a "zero" for the cap letter O, etc.
We will try using these when we set Thrive's wifi settings for your network.
(Go to link to find the screenshot)
Now please check the following router summary page by logging on to your router.
Make sure, on the right side it, shows enough DHCP Available, and on that the router
address is still 192.168.1.254
And on the left, the page is exactly the same as below, none of the blank fields are filled in, right?
And the top button is still selected ..... 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 (default)
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THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL FIX CAME IN
Originally Posted by shakefry
"Would it possibly help if i DID enable filtering? then I could just put in all the device's MAC addresses and maybe it'll be more focused or something?"
No filtering wont "pull in" the devices, through the front door of the router. Filtering will just turn them around and kick them out again if they are not on the "invited to the party" List.
"edit: I just found a similar page, the design is slightly different. The router/gateway address is one number above my DHCP range and it says I have 178 available and there are 12 allocated (weird because we only have 10 devices connected to this thing that I know of)
OK so you have plenty of available IP addresses (DHCP). It is normal to see a couple more than the number of devices you have."
So now you have the info you need to connect the thrive (maybe):
1-Hold the Thrive in portrait mode so the keyboard does not hide the settings
...
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
enter 192.168.1.173. (a nice odd numbered unused ip, away from the auto assigned ones).
(You are making it an odd number (173) because if you buy, in the future, something like a network drive, or AppleTV, it will probably come with a nice "multiple of five" static number like 150 or 155 or 35
the "CONNECT" is greyed out .... right?
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
ARE YOU CONNECTED???
If NO
1- update the router's firmware - try connecting again
2- We will give up on the 3800 and add your second router, with different sets of DHCP ranges, and broadcasting on a non-conflicting channels to the 3800's channel ( channels 1, 6, and 11 do not conflict with each other - assign one router to channel one and the other to channel 11, and keep them a couple of feet away from each other.
shakefry, Please Let us know how it goes, which solution worked ... so other forum readers can help their little sisters too ....
we are standing by (actually in my comfy recliner waiting ..)
Thanks, bobj
aka Bojo, or Obi-Wan, or RouterRooter
I was able to connect to wifi consistently and access the Internet and YouTube app successfully. Hope this helps someone else!!!
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Glad to hear you got it going. I actually fixed mine about 3 days ago. I read somewhere changing your ssid inside the router helps. Well, I did and it actually worked. I haven't had a problem with my wifi signal yet. On mine what was happening also was whenever my phone would go into sleep for say 5min and I went to use the Internet immediately. It would take the wifi about 20-30secs for the wifi to wake up. So far, since changing my ssid I haven't had that problem at all.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
iLogikk said:
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr!
. . .
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
. . .
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
. . .
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting a followup.
Did you delete and re-add the WiFi network on your phone, configuring it for a static route and IP address that was in the range on the router, essentially?
- ooofest
OK, my wife and I each have Sprint Samsung Galaxy S3's. We both have Wifi Tether TrevE mod installed and working and we also have a linksys router running DD-WRT.
I have wanted for a long time to create a stable home network with the router using our phones for internet. Reason being, We both have laptops that need access to our WiFi networked printer. And I also wanted to create a networked storage.
I started out trying to use the Router as a repeater bridge. The problem here is that in that mode there is no DHCP server in the router, so when you turn off WiFi Tether in the phone, there is no IP assignment taking place since it is handled by the phone. This is ok for the printer because we can set a static IP, but not ok for the laptops because they need to have auto ip assignment for all the other networks they might encounter. Plus I'd like to be able to have a friend come over and use the printer if need be without having to change his IP address. So this setup is unstable.
Then I tried the Router in Repeater mode. In this mode IP addresses are being assigned and everyone can see everyone else on the network. The problem here though, is that the Router and all connecting devices have to be in a separate subnet than the WiFi Tethering phone, i.e, Tethered Phone on 192.168.1.x and Router on 192.168.2.x (as far as I can tell anyway, I've tried putting them on the same subnet but fail to get internet access.) It's a problem because I have Samba Filesharing installed on the phones and the tethered phone is in a different subnet and not visible on the network. I want all devices visible.
So that's kind of where I am now, Wifi Tether on both phones (each setup with same settings so either phone can be used as our internet gateway) but they are on a separate subnet from the rest of the network while tethering.
How do I get all of my devices to be visible on the network?
Do I need a different setup in DD-WRT?
Currently it is setup in Gateway mode with DHCP server and wireless is in repeater mode with a VLAN setup with a different SSID from the WiFi tethered phone.
Do I need to usb tether the phone to the router? I have a usb port on the router but I've not found good instructions for getting the phones internet through to the router that way and I'm not sure that I would want it that way since I wouldn't be able to walk around with my phone.
Is there a way to make devices in different subnets visible to each other? Some kind of bridging or static routing or something?
Is it possible to have the phone connect to the router in a normal manner and for the router to then share the phones internet connection with the rest of the network? Then at least the router could run DHCP and be stable even without the phones.
Again, just to clarify, I want a home network with devices connecting to my WiFi router running DD-WRT and internet being provided by one of our phones, but with the network remaining intact when the internet provided phone is removed. Thanks for your help.
Bonus questions:
Is it possible to harness the power of both of our phones internet connections into one network by any means possible?
Are there any other wifi/tethering apps or another version of WiFi Tether that offer more features or the functionality of DD-WRT?
did you see this?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1548844
pbmurdoc said:
did you see this?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1548844
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Not much new there other than Barnacle. Didn't know about it, tried it, doesn't work on my phone. I would like to see a version of WiFi Tether with some more options though, why couldn't we have one with the same options as DD-WRT?
I did some more reading and I think what I need to do is link the subnet created by the router to the primary router (the phone serving Wifi Tether) through static routing. Unfortunately the static route needs to be done through the primary router and WiFi Tether doesn't include features like that.
I'll do some more experimenting and see what happens.
[A] Cellular Phone/USB Modem As WAN Connection
Answer is in the DD-WRT Wiki, here (http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Cellular_Phone/USB_Modem_as_WAN_connection).
Or just google "DD-WRT Cellular Phone/USB Modem As WAN Connection", it should be the #1 result.
Their WIKI is a great resource.
Good luck!
EDIT:
In retrospect, I am unsure about linking to the DD-WRT site... external and all. If this is a no-no just let me know and I will delete the link.
DD-WRT Client Bridge worked for me
I was able to do what you're trying to do by configuring my DD-WRT router as a Client Bridge.
I can't post the link, but there are directions I followed exactly on the DD-WRT wiki in the section:
DD-WRT wiki mainpage / Linking Routers / Client Bridged
I'm connecting my router to the tether via wifi, and connecting my wired devices to the router. I haven't had it working long, but so far it has been great.
Got it, sort of
Just to update this thread. The client bridge is a great way to connect a wired network to the bridge but loses out on creating a stable wi-fi network when the phone tether is turned off.
Anyway, the final setup I managed was having the DD-WRT router set as a wireless repeater with a computer connected to it running a DHCP server. The computer takes care of the IP addreses so that we have a stable wired/wi-fi intranet when the phone is not sharing it's internet connection.
Update: I founde another solution/project based on OpenWRT
http://ofmodemsandmen.com/
my exploits using a Linksys E3000 have been documented here:
http://tweakedrom.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7
I kind of like the USB tether thing. The E3000 Router USB power charges and maintains my SCH-i605 (Verizon Samsung GN2) running CM12.1. I use this as a backup connection or in the event of main cable modem service disruption at the house. It is also great for traveling (hotels) or camping (car 12v adapter for router, or power inverter)
I just bought a used Asus RT-N66U router. Out of the box it supports USB tethering with android phones and dual WANs for failover/load balancing. ROOter also works, tested the x86 build on an old PC. I'm looking to cut out my ISP completely and just use 4G from the phone for internet. The issue I have run into is that I can't appear to do DDNS or port forwarding. My wireless carrier (verizon) appears to be employing a double NAT. If I perform a speedtest on the ookla app, I get 2 IP addresses in the results, an "internal" and an "external". Both are in the public range but I can't DDNS in with either of the IPs, nor can I get any kind of service working.
Anyone have a solution for this? I'm not 100% sure but I wonder if using the SIM card in a dedicated USB 4G modem (not tethering via the phone) would get me a direct IP? I suppose I could also sign up for a VPN service and run OpenVPN on the router but that'd cut down on speeds I think. I've also heard about punching holes for ports but I'm not 100% sure how that works, I assume I still need some 3rd party public IP for relaying or something.
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
Slim K said:
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that, great idea! What I find though, with Extenders, is that they require you to have your base station WIFI on 24/7 where my set-up the base, which is right next to me, is off and the 2nd router is WIFI on. This keeps me from being 2.4 or 5.0 waves passing through my body.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: 9-26-21 3:31PM PST I did some reading on different Qos settings and can see a potential problem, so I unchecked Qos completely. All the 2FA codes are coming through now. I have to wait another day before being sure, but I think that may have been the problem. It also had a problem logging on to WIFI which had that too. So, my question now is, What does Qos have to do with 2FA codes coming through. The codes are no normal MMS messages so is it the software in the router being old and not knowing about 2FA protocols with Qos or what?
Also, I had a heck of a time logging in to the site, and after I did, I had to reload the site in order to see my post which took too long to find. Where is the "See your Post Button"?