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I'm having a technical problem with my home Wi-Fi router, and my Fuze. I just recently set up a wireless network at home, and have my PC connected to the router through Wi-Fi. Whenever I attempt to connect my Fuze to the router, the Fuze hijacks the connection, and disconnects my PC from the network. I have tried to contact the tech support for the router, but nothing they suggest seems to work. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there something I am missing in the router configuration? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
htcfan78 said:
I'm having a technical problem with my home Wi-Fi router, and my Fuze. I just recently set up a wireless network at home, and have my PC connected to the router through Wi-Fi. Whenever I attempt to connect my Fuze to the router, the Fuze hijacks the connection, and disconnects my PC from the network. I have tried to contact the tech support for the router, but nothing they suggest seems to work. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there something I am missing in the router configuration? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i've used my fuze on multiple routers and it doesnt do this. Get a new router
If you give static ip on both pc and ppc check if you gave the same ip. If not, check the dhcp range on your router.
nhshah7 said:
i've used my fuze on multiple routers and it doesnt do this. Get a new router
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I should not have said "any help would be greatly appreciated". It is a new router.
htcfan78 said:
Maybe I should not have said "any help would be greatly appreciated". It is a new router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And who makes this new router?
NotATreoFan said:
And who makes this new router?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a Linksys RangePlus WRT110 router.
htcfan78 said:
It is a Linksys RangePlus WRT110 router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First thing I would try is updating the firmware, and doing a factory restore.
If that doesn't work, try changing the router to force 54g connections only. It's possible, but unlikely, that the Draft-N spec used by the router doesn't play nicely with the WLAN chipset in the Touch Pro.
jigero said:
If you give static ip on both pc and ppc check if you gave the same ip. If not, check the dhcp range on your router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
agreed, i would try this first. makes sense that if they both have the same ip that that is the cause of your problem. if you're set to assign dynamic ip's on connecting to the router, then i'd try upgrading the firmware. good thing to check first
Still having problems with this issue. Tried everything suggested so far.
Make sure the IP's are not conflicting and the dhcp range is at least 10 addresses.
It could also be a neighbor screwing around, make sure you encrypt your wifi with wpa or wpa2 or anyone in range can use your wifi.
When I first read your problem I thought it was an IP conflict with both devices like some others have said....but if you've checked everything and tried all possible solutions posted in this thread I think it might be pretty safe to assume that you need a new router. If its new, just bring it back and exchange it for a different one.
I'm using a D-Link DIR-655P and have connection types (B, G, N) on auto, dynamic IP address assignment set, and I have the latest firmware installed and I have no issues whatsoever...I have a quick lock and fast speeds.
I've got a few questions, because to me this sounds like a possible issue with your network adapter on your PC, rather than a DHCP "hijack" issue.
What is the ip on your PC after it gets "hijacked"?
Do you use sleep/hibernate modes on your PC?
Have you turned off Windows Firewall or any other security/virus/malware software on the PC?
This router is new, did this setup work with a previous router?
What security protocol are you using for wireless connections, WEP, WPA, WPA2, or none?
-----------------
Hope you can figure it out, that's gotta be a real PITA.
Got it fixed. Did some more research, and found that the firmware updates do not work with Firefox, so I used IE to do the update, and it works fine. For anyone else that uses or is planning to use this router, check the firmware. The firmware version that mine came with (1.0.4 build 10) does not work with multiple versions of Windows (ie: cannot have a computer with Win XP and another with Win Vista connected at the same time). Thanks for the help.
Ahhh...well there you go. Glad its fixed.
Okay, a little about my setup. I have tested on Slim ICS 2.7, 2.9; Codename Android 1.4, 1.5.5; as well as AOKP (I dont know exact builds, but am on the latest now - build 28). I have a Cradlepoint MBR 1000 which is a b/g/n 4g router (though I only have cable hooked up - was bought originally to allow me to broadcast my Clear 4g service, but Clear doesnt work where I live now).
EVO 3D, iPhone 4s, All my laptops, HeroC, Kyocera Echo, Roku...I mean everything connects to my Wi-Fi EXCEPT my NS4G...WTH?
Does anyone else have this issue?...could it be some settings with the N router?...I cant believe everything but this phone works.
Please help. It is so frustrating to be limited to 3g that works intermittently while I am at home. I have all my apps from the Google Play backed up to my sdcard so I dont have to connect to install them...it is a huge pain. Thanks in advance
Need some more description. What settings do you have on the router, how have you tried to connect, does it connect then drop out, can you see the network at all, etc?
Either your phones wifi hardware is gone or your house.
So here's what you can do to narrow down on the problem.
Tell me if you can connect to any other wifi hotspots outside your house. If it does connect then problem is router if it doesn't than problem is with the phone.
Good luck.
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
Does it detect any Wi-Fi networks at all?
Does it detect any Wi-Fi networks at all? or just can't make the connection
I have the same problem but only at home .I don't anderstand a lot about this, I change my rom with ice scream sandswich 4.0.4 it was working with 4.0.3. Where is the problem. Thanks for your help.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xda premium
shockem said:
Either your phones wifi hardware is gone or your house.
So here's what you can do to narrow down on the problem.
Tell me if you can connect to any other wifi hotspots outside your house. If it does connect then problem is router if it doesn't than problem is with the phone.
Good luck.
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not necessarily. Setup of each router can change in numerous ways so as to stop certain devices from working, as can certain phone settings not allow connecting to certain routers. It is not quite so black and white, and we already know the router works.
daviki said:
I have the same problem but only at home .I don't anderstand a lot about this, I change my rom with ice scream sandswich 4.0.4 it was working with 4.0.3. Where is the problem. Thanks for your help.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a channel setting problem. Easiest way is to open up your router config and change the channel between 1 and 12 and this shouldn't happen again. Alternatively you could mess around with your build.prop.
Harbb is right, you might want to test several things within your router:
Change channels (use 1, 6 or 11-12)
Set it to only use on b/g connections (don't use n)
Different authentication methods (WPA2 with AES, etc)
And make sure you don't have a limit on your DHCP settings (just to make sure you don't have a ton of devices connected so it's not handing more IPs) or MAC filter.
Okay, sorry for not replying sooner. I posted this, then went to bed.
@Harbb:
It does see the network, lets me connect, put in the password, and says it is connected. It always says the connection is poor when I know it should be a good connection. The phone then shows the wifi icon and up and down arrows inside of the icon...I never see a portion of blue. When I try to download from the market, it will act like it is working, then the icon will disappear/reappear numerous times before it tell me there is not a connection.
As for my router setup. I do not know what information will help in this but here is some info: I do not have MAC filtering on, WISH is active (dont use it), WPA2 Only Personal AES (this is what I use), Channel 6 (I have tried channel 11 because I read somewhere the Wii needed 1 or 11 or one of my devices needed it), Transmission rate is Best, Channel is Auto 20/40 MHz, Mixed b/g/n (to utilize N and G, it has to be on this setting, there isn't an option for Mixed n/g), it is set on 192.168.0.x, NetBIOS mode type is Mixed (Broadcast then Point to Point).
@shockem I have not tested it with any other hotspot to see if it is just a problem with that router and this phone. I will try if I can find an open hotspot and let you know.
@Billchen0014 It does detect the network and connects, but drops it constantly...I cant even download a <1MB file from the market.
@Harbb (2) Going by your advice to daviki...it looks like I need to check another router. I go by a Starbucks, so I will try their hotspot...unless it isn't free, then Ill look around.
Thanks everyone who is helping me with this.
@Oogway, I will try G only and see what happens...if I use Mixed it has to be g/b or b/g/n. As for DHCP there is only 2 maybe 3 devices connected and No MAC filtering
Could it be the Wifi country code issue?
Is that something on the phone? Also, I tested different channels (1, 6, 11) as well as b/g and g only. Still no go.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using XDA
Thanks for the info. Test another hotspot (preferably one with a wpa2 password too if possible) and let us know. I'll reply later with some things to try as I gotta get going.
Okay, I did test one more thing. I sat right next to the router and it had full bars. Stayed full and my speed tests were great. Moved to where I sit on the couch about 30 walking steps away and no connection. I know the signal reaches because it is where I use laptops and other devices. The PS3 and Wii are further away and have no issue. It is not a clear path, but there aren't any doors between the router and the couch.
Just some more info...leading me to believe it is an issue with the phone. I get horrible service with Sprint also, so it may be connected. I don't know.
Any ideas? Is it just because of how far away I am?
Again, thanks everyone for the help. It has been so frustrating ever since I got the phone.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using XDA
Wifi Analyzer can give you a dB reading on the signal strength if you'd like to try that from a distance too. Wifi at uni likes to show low bars quite often, however alot of the time i have great signal and it shows through wifi analyzer. May not be related since uni is a peap connection, but worth a shot anywho. Might give another hint on whether you should seek out warranty or router settings.
Hello all!
Not sure if this has been posted but I figured I would put up a new post. I am showing that I am connected to my home WiFi but I am not able to actually use it. For instance, I cannot open links or watch YouTube videos. I believe it is the router because I just had a Droid RAZR and my connections to the Internet were not dependable. Currently, I am using AT&T's 2Wire 2701HG-B Gateway router.
Are there any settings that should be adjusted within the router? Encryption type is WPA-PSK. Wireless mode is 802.11g/b.
I just got my S3 yesterday and so far WiFi works in other places. Also, I tried the #*0011# thing and that did not work for me. I've rebooted and factory reset my device. Nothing helps. Anything I can change?
Thanks in advance!
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
ooofest said:
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that I'm looking, no it doesn't have it listed there. My phone says its connoted though. I forgot the connection, rebooted the phone and did the #*0011# and reconnected the network. Still the same result. Any ideas?
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes, my iPad and two laptops.
2. There is a link speed and an IP address but the third number of the IP address on my phone is different than the third number of the IP addresses of the devices listed that connect to the router. I hope I made some type of sense saying that lol! There are about 6 devices listed that connect to the router and the first, second and third numbers are the same. My phone only have the first & second numbers in common.
3. didn't try that because I'm assuming something isn't right from the previous answer.
4. I typed in the pass phrase from my phone. I do not know of any other way to connect the device. I am not familiar with doing it from the admin panel especially since I'm not even seeing the device there.
Thanks again!
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
ooofest said:
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
iLogikk said:
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for all of your help!
Rams99 said:
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
iLogikk said:
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest. It's not your phone. I think you said you already did a factory reset on the modem/router correct? If not, do it and revert back to factory settings. If that doesn't work I would call att and tell them to send you another att modem/router. Tell them your wifi is down. Hopefully you'll get everything back to where it was. Good luck.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Fix
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr! http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
I tried this part but all of my settings were already set to match this....including it because it was part of the process.
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Originally Posted by shakefry
My little sister received a cool Toshiba Thrive for Christmas but the thing will not connect to the proprietary router we have. The router isn't the problem because I've been able to connect a Macbook, 2 PCs, a 3DS and a smartphone to it and they all work as needed. When we put in the password for the connection it saying it is 'scanning' and 'connecting' then disconnects and starts going into a scanning loop saying is scanning then stopping then starting again.
I found a similar topic about this but the thread did not answer my question. I followed all of the steps of given solutions to no avail. And the constant suggestion to set the beacon or preamble differently is highly frustrating because the model router I have does not have such settings (I have gone through all the menus about ten times, literally).
I have also heard that the connection security could be a factor but I am not willing to downgrade my WPA 2 (TKIP & AES) to a WPA 1 or WEP, unless its absolutely necessary. I've been googling for hours so I need a solution or unfortunately we will have to return it for a more compatible device, which would suck because we got this for a good price (new).
Our router is a 2WIRE 3800 hgv-b (we have AT&T Uverse, idk if I should specify anything else)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi shakefry - Nice to meet you. You are 100 percent right you should not lower your security - WPA2 is the strongest and it does work fine with Thrive. That is what I use.
For some reason the ATT 2-wire routers are the most frustrating, but that is not a problem. We just might have to try a few different things, instead of getting it to connect the first time, so stay with me, OK? big brothers always have to help their little sisters...
----
1. You do not have MAC Filtering enabled,do you? If you do add the Thrive's MAC to the Router's list of permitted devices. Then try connecting.....
2. Not using MAC Filtering, or you added the thrive and still can not connect ......
OK, First ... Lets get the info your Windows Laptop has about your router when it connects
successfully to the 3800HG-B Router via wifi:
On your (Win7?) PC that is successfully connected by wifi to the same network, lets get some wifi settings. Vista - pretty much the same screens, XP a little different looking.
Click on the wifi signal lower right taskbar, open network and sharing center.
click on right side in blue, your network name
Pop up window - click on Details
the detail window opens ...
IPv4 Subnet Mask should be 255.255.255.0, if not we need to change it in the router settings.
This would prevent you from getting to the internet, but with all devices not just thrive.
Copy down IPv4 Default Gateway, and both IPv4 Servers
(Most routers will not need the actual IPv4 addresses in the devices DNS1 and DNS2, but yours might)
Now (no picture) close the DETAILS window and click on WIRELESS PROPERTIES. click on SECURITY tab, then click on SHOW PASSWORD. DO NOT CHANGE THIS FIELD, YOUR PC WILL DISCONNECT. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS FIELD IS THE CORRECT PASSWORD TO YOUR NETWORK.
(I just want to be 100 percent sure - this is the password you need to log the thrive on. You are pretty sharp with all this stuff, so you know it is case sensitive, don't mistake a "zero" for the cap letter O, etc.
We will try using these when we set Thrive's wifi settings for your network.
(Go to link to find the screenshot)
Now please check the following router summary page by logging on to your router.
Make sure, on the right side it, shows enough DHCP Available, and on that the router
address is still 192.168.1.254
And on the left, the page is exactly the same as below, none of the blank fields are filled in, right?
And the top button is still selected ..... 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 (default)
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THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL FIX CAME IN
Originally Posted by shakefry
"Would it possibly help if i DID enable filtering? then I could just put in all the device's MAC addresses and maybe it'll be more focused or something?"
No filtering wont "pull in" the devices, through the front door of the router. Filtering will just turn them around and kick them out again if they are not on the "invited to the party" List.
"edit: I just found a similar page, the design is slightly different. The router/gateway address is one number above my DHCP range and it says I have 178 available and there are 12 allocated (weird because we only have 10 devices connected to this thing that I know of)
OK so you have plenty of available IP addresses (DHCP). It is normal to see a couple more than the number of devices you have."
So now you have the info you need to connect the thrive (maybe):
1-Hold the Thrive in portrait mode so the keyboard does not hide the settings
...
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
enter 192.168.1.173. (a nice odd numbered unused ip, away from the auto assigned ones).
(You are making it an odd number (173) because if you buy, in the future, something like a network drive, or AppleTV, it will probably come with a nice "multiple of five" static number like 150 or 155 or 35
the "CONNECT" is greyed out .... right?
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
ARE YOU CONNECTED???
If NO
1- update the router's firmware - try connecting again
2- We will give up on the 3800 and add your second router, with different sets of DHCP ranges, and broadcasting on a non-conflicting channels to the 3800's channel ( channels 1, 6, and 11 do not conflict with each other - assign one router to channel one and the other to channel 11, and keep them a couple of feet away from each other.
shakefry, Please Let us know how it goes, which solution worked ... so other forum readers can help their little sisters too ....
we are standing by (actually in my comfy recliner waiting ..)
Thanks, bobj
aka Bojo, or Obi-Wan, or RouterRooter
I was able to connect to wifi consistently and access the Internet and YouTube app successfully. Hope this helps someone else!!!
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Glad to hear you got it going. I actually fixed mine about 3 days ago. I read somewhere changing your ssid inside the router helps. Well, I did and it actually worked. I haven't had a problem with my wifi signal yet. On mine what was happening also was whenever my phone would go into sleep for say 5min and I went to use the Internet immediately. It would take the wifi about 20-30secs for the wifi to wake up. So far, since changing my ssid I haven't had that problem at all.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
iLogikk said:
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr!
. . .
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
. . .
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
. . .
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
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Click to collapse
Thanks for posting a followup.
Did you delete and re-add the WiFi network on your phone, configuring it for a static route and IP address that was in the range on the router, essentially?
- ooofest
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
SixSixSevenSeven said:
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
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It is AT&T's router. I have Uverse and this is the one they gave us.Motorola should be who i call if anyone but the problem is Microsoft's ..All others have no problem connecting
shEEEsh said:
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
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Click to collapse
Never had an issue with any form of encryption with the Surface RT - it's got the standard windows 8 wifi stack and connects to anything I throw at it, including WPA2/AES.
Not sure why you're having an issue, but you haven't given us much to go on for troubleshooting.
And getting a real router isn't possible?
Talon Pro said:
And getting a real router isn't possible?
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Apparently this (MOTOROLA NVG510) router is the only one I can use in my area with U-Verse.
Thats bull. Is it a combo router/modem? If so you should still be able to hook up a wireless router off of that if it has at least one ethernet port.
see thats what BT claimed when they installed BT infinity at my grandparents but we dont have the stock router running off of it
Thanks for the suggestions. I returned the Surface. I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else. On the other hand. Annoys me that every gadget I own (and there are many) connects with no problem EXCEPT the surface.
diane
Your router is old. Something is probably interfering with the Surface Pro's connectivity. Your SP's wifi card isn't busted if it can connect without encryption. It shouldn't have a problem. I'd suggest ditching the modem's wifi and buying a router and using that instead for wifi and leave the modem alone.
99% sure it's a setting in your router that's causing you to not be able to connect a new device through wifi.
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
Trig0r said:
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
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the problem was for sure the modem. There are no settings to tweak... It's gotta be the worst modem on the planet-but then U.verse doesn't feel any faster than my old ATT DSL connection. I asked to have my DSL back and ATT said that was not an option. ATT told me this modern is the only one for my area. Maybe it is time I looked into Brighthouse. I am sure there is a way around that modem but in my frustration I returned the Surface. Very sure I will buy another Surface . . I still have my Samsung Slate 7 with Windows 8... Another plus is it has a 3G connection. the more I use Windows 8 the more I like it, wish the Slate was a bit smaller.
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
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We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
>We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
OP's name is Diane.
Secondly, as posted in the OP, the device is a Motorola NVG 510. A 10-second lookup would show that it's a combined ADSL2+router, and it's not a simple matter of swapping out a router. Combined-function devices are SOP for leased models, since it saves the company money over having two boxes.
http://google.com/search?q=Motorola+NVG+510
It's a Surface problem. The user shouldn't be expected to mess with things like router settings and learn to be a geek. The device in question is obviously in popular use, and it's up to MS to get it right. The OP did the correct thing in returning the Surface.
However, for those with more tech savvy, the above search produces this help page for the modem+router,
http://www.ron-berman.com/2011/11/24/motorola-nvg510-help-page-for-att-u-verse-users/
which has both the manual and more importantly, a FAQ to troubleshoot connection issues, and links to more appropriate forums to ask further questions on this particular topic.
As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection. Yes your ISP's router will still be broadcasting but so will the new 3rd party one, you just connect to that. This is a configuration I have tested with a BT homehub and some ****ty Netgear.
To access the new routers settings, unplug it from the ISPs router first and then access the settings in the normal way. or if you can find the new local IP for the additional router you can use that.
>As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection.
Either the new router has to be reconfig'ed into an AP, or the old router needs to be disabled. Can't have both routers active. Likewise, the old wifi needs to be disabled, or the new one reconfigured that they don't conflict. Regardless, it's not plug and play. Either or both units would need configuration.
The household Internet router is the single most critical piece of equipment there is, because if the user messes up, s/he loses Internet access ENTIRELY and access to any further help. Without local help, that may mean several days' downtime and an expensive bill for onsite repair. I would NEVER, EVER tell a non-tech user to reconfigure his/her router, especially when the person said "I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else."
Everyone here has good intentions and want to help. Then, the first thing to helping is to listen to what is said, and gauge the person's comfort level with tech. No one even bothered to check up on the OP's router model.
The OP has a stable, working setup. Anything that jeopardizes that setup is bad advice, not unless you are willing to foot the onsite service cost for the person. The preferred solution is to remove the known-problem component, which in this case is the Surface.
PS: A long shot is to go into the Surface's Device Manager, select the Properties tab of the wifi card, and muck around with the advanced settings (if there are any).
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
That said, if you wanted port forwarding and such to work smoothly, it *would* be best to turn off DHCP and NAT on the inner router. However, that's not necessary to simply get Internet access via the router.
GoodDayToDie said:
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
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Which is precisely what I originally said.
I have daisy chained a cheap as **** netgear router to my BT homehub without any setting changes at all. I was actually using it as an ethernet extension cable pretty much, I didnt have a single cable long enough so I plugged one between the homehub/main router and the netgear and one between the netgear and a raspberry pi. Would you look at that, my laptop can connect to the netgear and get internet access from it, the pi also connects via its ethernet port perfectly.
My grandparents use a set of homeplugs, how do they connect? daisy chaining.
One of my mates has 3 ethernet devices in one room but only one LAN port drilled into the wall (he had an electrician out once to actually have LAN sockets fitted in a few rooms). Solution: cheap wireless router connected to the LAN port in the wall. Other devices connected to the router. Router had 6 ports so he still has 2 left over. Devices connect to it fine. Originally it was default settings but he has since gone and disabled the routers wifi as he doesnt use it.
That said. I came across a linksys unit once which refused to be used as an access point of any kind. But that was only once.
>You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
Having nested routers (ie segmenting the network) is a prescription for myriad network problems in the hands of a non-tech user. Again, listen to what the OP said, rather than assume everyone is a geek who knows what DHCP and NAT means, let alone how to change them.
Even if the OP can get the new router configured and running properly, the potential for problem remains. When ISP service goes down, the ISP tech will remote troubleshoot the leased equipment (the old router), since that's the ISP's responsibility. With user equipment attached, troubleshooting responsibility passes on to the user, which the OP has stated in no uncertain terms that she's not capable of.
The point isn't to get Internet access. The OP already has Internet access. The point is to get the Surface to connect to the network, but NOT AT THE EXPENSE of adding networking complications that the OP can't handle.
>I have daisy chained...
This suffices for simple Internet access, until you run into programs or devices that break because of the multiple redirections. I doubt UPNP/DLNA works on nested NATs. Ditto discovery. Devices/periphs on one network segment won't be able to connect to those on another segment.
The wifi will work, but given that most 2.4GHz wifi default to channel 1 or 6, it will likely conflict with the old wifi and work POORLY when both are active.
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
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For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
Slim K said:
For the DHCP/IP problem I know very little to help your issue. Other alternatives you can try is alternative Software for your router instead of the one from Netgear. I have found just from a quick search Openwrt and DD-wrt, both of which are linux based and have their own limitations.
As for the Openwrt build/s, WIFI only works in 802.11g, but 802.1an/ac work only with limited functionality or not at all. That may not seem so important considering you would only use it for the WAN/LAN ports.
As for DD-wrt, your best bet is to skim through their forum posts to figure out what works and what doesn't. (DD-wrt contains non-FOSS drivers from Broadcom, which they don't release to public, so better compatibility in general)
You can always use another wifi extender in your combo (or stick with it, if that's not the issue).
Best of luck in solving your problems.
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Thanks for that, great idea! What I find though, with Extenders, is that they require you to have your base station WIFI on 24/7 where my set-up the base, which is right next to me, is off and the 2nd router is WIFI on. This keeps me from being 2.4 or 5.0 waves passing through my body.
bmaz121 said:
At first a reboot of the phone worked, but later I found that if I rebooted the router the codes would come through but not the previous sent codes, only newly made 2FA code requests. I have a Netgear 6300R2 Router with a second router, Netgear R6300V1, as an extended wifi only router wired together with Ethernet. I have multiple phones that have no problems with 2FA codes, only the new phone Ulefone Note 11P, which is the only phone running Android 11. This phone also has the problem of the new standard for Mac Address assignment as automatic. Since I made the home network use Mac address as the requirement for access to WIFI and assigns a static IP address to each device and has 20 addresses in the router setup. The only way I could get this phone to work on this network was to have one IP slot in the 20 not defined in the DHCP IP address list. So, for the life of me I can not find or do not know how to ask the internet for any info on this type of problem since many phones are running Android 10. Most people probably have newer equipment than I do so the problem is not showing up yet, but I imagine it will when all the Internet security is using Mac addresses to secure the network from unknown devices, an issue that has come up many times. So, if you could point me to some better router software I could load on the routers to handle the Mac addressing problems and have the right protocols built in for 2FA (2-factor authentication) I would try that. It must be a combined problem with Android 11 Wifi settings and router setting for it to work this way. After rebooting the router and receive code all day, the next morning the codes fail to show again, and I reboot the router again. Also, I am in the habit of using Airplane Mode or turning off data and WIFI overnight to prevent access from all those data hungry PUPs connected to the phone over the internet. Thank You for your help. The routers are updated with the latest Netgear software.
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Click to collapse
Update: 9-26-21 3:31PM PST I did some reading on different Qos settings and can see a potential problem, so I unchecked Qos completely. All the 2FA codes are coming through now. I have to wait another day before being sure, but I think that may have been the problem. It also had a problem logging on to WIFI which had that too. So, my question now is, What does Qos have to do with 2FA codes coming through. The codes are no normal MMS messages so is it the software in the router being old and not knowing about 2FA protocols with Qos or what?
Also, I had a heck of a time logging in to the site, and after I did, I had to reload the site in order to see my post which took too long to find. Where is the "See your Post Button"?