[Q] Gasket/Seal on motherboard - Verizon Samsung Galaxy S III

I purchased a replacement screen/LCD for my i535 on Ebay which was supposed to be OEM including pretty much all of the internals but unfortunately didn't come as pictured.
I removed everything from my old frame but noticed the new one didn't have the silicone type seal where the motherboard meets the frame.
Would anyone know if that material is some sort of a conductive seal where the motherboard surface meets? I probably shouldn't have but laid very fine lines of silicone where the factory "silicone" was supposed to be.
After assembly my signal is going up and down, searching, going to Verizon to Extended.
My question is would that seal have had something to do with the motherboard making a necessary connection to the frame for reception?
Thank you for any input.

Related

Good video for Inspire 4G screen replacement?

Has anyone seen a good take apart/repair guide for the Inspire4G. Just got digitizer replacement and cannot for the life of me figure out how to attach the ribbon cable without totally disassembling the phone. Hoping to avoid this.
If this is the wrong forum, please direct me to a better one rather than flaming me.
Thanks
Fairly certain that ifixit.com has a good teardown.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Thanks for the tip, but I find nothing for the DesireHD/Inspire4G there other than a total disassemble for the HD that I've already seen, but really did not help me. I just need to change to touch screen. I appreciate the try though.
Got it apart. And kinda back together. Apparently it is not a good idea to reuse the double sided tape that holds the LCD to the motherboard and the digitizer to the LCD. At least the phone works. Now, must order some proper adhesive tape and redo the whole thing.... Took me about 6 hours for whole breakdown and rebuild. Doesn't really seem to fit back together all that well though. Maybe I'll videotape my next breakdown.
Couple of questions as my phone is in need of a new digitizer too.
Did you have any other adhesive tapes in the process?
What did you use to cut the tape that held the LCD together after you baked it?
Does the phone mostly feel the same now that you have it back together, or does it feel flimsy now?
I'm disappointed that it's this difficult to replace the digitizer.
Jeffsmashkot said:
Couple of questions as my phone is in need of a new digitizer too.
Did you have any other adhesive tapes in the process?
What did you use to cut the tape that held the LCD together after you baked it?
Does the phone mostly feel the same now that you have it back together, or does it feel flimsy now?
I'm disappointed that it's this difficult to replace the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just so you know, I was a TOTAL noob in phone deconstruction. That being said, the old adhesive seemed quite sticky after i took it apart so I just reused it. Mistake number one. Once it was back together, i notice it slowly opening up like an accordion. The tape wasn't holding and the LCD, digitizer assembly started to rise up. I have since ordered some adhesive tape from the place I got the digitizer from. Definitely get the tape.
I did not bake it as in the video (i assume you watched the same one I did). I used an old spark plug gauge tool thingie to just cut through the tape. It was still really sticky so after i struggled to insert the digitizer ribbon cable, I just reused it. Don't do this. Get new tape.
I did have some plain old scotch double sided tape. I used it in one spot. Lesson: Don't use this stuff. Get new tape.
Did I mention that I think you should get new tape? All in all, it was quite laborious. I went really slowly so as not to brick it. When it was done the phone worked, but like I said the LCD raised up after a couple of minutes. The adhesive was not working anymore. At least I have gained confidence for the next take-apart. I can't believe i GOTTA go alll the way back to total break down. Aaaarrrgh.
So something like this should do the trick?
http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html
Thanks for the heads up... Where exactly do you recommend putting the tape? Does it just go on the black edges of the digitizer, or does it actually go on the surface of the LCD? Sorry if that's a noob question, but I haven't gotten the glass off and I want to make sure I have enough adhesive tape from the Ebay Vendor. Did you have any issues with reusing the mylar?
Sorry for the 1000 questions, I really don't want to shell out off contract prices for another phone...
Mylars were all reusable if removed carefully. I photographed every step so I would know what to put back where. Still waiting for my tape from Repairs Universe. The biggest two culprits are:
1] Tape holding back of LCD to the silver chassis frame and
2] Tape holding SIM FPC to the main board.
You might also tape the PCB cover to the upper board, mine was loose after rebuild.
That I believe that is it for the major tape requirements. Of course the digitizer needs to be taped to the LCD. I'm curious, though, the tape framing the LCD holding the digitizer seemed to have some thickness to it. Almost like foam rubber, quite thin, but thicker than regular cellophane tape.
Good luck. Let me know if you have any tips after your attempt.
Got the tape. Retried to rebuild with new OEM tape. Same result. The phone when completed expands like an accordion. The digitizer/LCD assembly does not stay stick to whatever is under it. I know when to admit defeat. Looks like I'm shelling out 500 for another phone. At least I have spare parts!
yeah i was going to do my screen myself till i seen the tear down & then called afew places around here that does screen replacements and said NO we won't touch the Inspire, i spent the money and let HTC fix it. was worth it they replaced the whole shell not just the screen ... IE lcd / digitizer / Outer case that was scratched and dented... basically a new phone with the guts out of my phone
I attempted to do this and let me just say that I too now have spare parts. I purchased a phone off of ebay. I didn't realize the no contract price went up to around 500.00 I should have gone directly to HTC. Live and learn...
I will be in possession of an HTC Inspire for testing purposes that also has a cracked screen. Not sure how bad it is but I was planning on just replacing the display for learning purposes. However it seems that it may not be worth the time spent.
If I do decide to give it a go I'll post my results here. First thing is to acquire new tape. Did you all purchase it locally or did you buy the adhesive online?
YouTube has lots of videos. Best to watch a few a see the best way. If you are scared to break it best you send it in for repair instead. Get a digitizer and screen combo.

[Q] Disassembly for screen replacement

I know this is a hardware question, but I'm hoping someone might have an answer.
My son cracked the screen on his Galaxy S Blaze. I ordered a replacement screen assembly and found a video which I thought showed how to replace the screen, but it was for a different model. I have the cover off, the flex cables disconnected and the motherboard out, but I can't figure out how to remove the old screen from the front housing. Based on the other video, it should be a combination of heating the edge of the housing with a hair dryer until the adhesive softens, then prying it off. I've tried to do this with no luck, but it could be that I'm not prying hard enough - kinda scared to break it.
Does anyone know how to remove the screen - or better yet, know of a disassembly guide for the Galaxy S Blaze?
Thanks!
Heat, Heat and more heat...
Be careful with the heat as it can destroy amoled
a little off topic but...
One of the pins on my usb port got damaged. I was curious and took off the cover to have a look at what would be needed to replace it.... too much soldering that is above my skill level. Anyways, in the process of removing the cover, I lost functionality of my hardware buttons. I'm assuming I damaged the cables that attach them to the mobo. Didn't notice this until I put the cover back on and booted up. Does that seem right? Was I just being too harsh while taking it apart and ripped a ribbon or something of the like?

Replacing the tab 2 7 digitizer

My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?
Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated
Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo

Problems changing Digitizer.

I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.

In the name of God, please help !!!!!

Hi,
I've been trying to get hold of a Samsung J6 replacement screen to replace my old one. It's a simple job of click and glue. However, I've tried several screens that all rock in the phone recess and not sit flush. I can't afford an original screen which probably would fit perfectly. So,through ebay each screen I try doesn't fit because of the chip and digitizer connector not seating correctly and it's driving me up the pole with frustration. Has anybody got any ideas of which screen to buy or if I'm doing something wrong? Please, save my sanity. Thankyou.
gauss101 said:
Hi,
I've been trying to get hold of a Samsung J6 replacement screen to replace my old one. It's a simple job of click and glue. However, I've tried several screens that all rock in the phone recess and not sit flush. I can't afford an original screen which probably would fit perfectly. So,through ebay each screen I try doesn't fit because of the chip and digitizer connector not seating correctly and it's driving me up the pole with frustration. Has anybody got any ideas of which screen to buy or if I'm doing something wrong? Please, save my sanity. Thankyou.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome to XDA.
Is the frame bent or anything internally displaced? Has the battery failed? Any Li swelling is a failure, replace asap.
Any impact that can break the display can do additional internal damage.
Best to always use a good case to not only protect the exterior but to also limit G loading on internal components from a drop. The SOC and all BGA chipsets are particularly vulnerable to G loading and mobo flexing.
Hi,
No, everything is in place and lined up ok. If I put in the broken screen it sits snuggly into its recess. Either I'm really thick, as nobody else seems to have had this problem, or a lot of people are either buying the original screens or happy with a Chinese wonky one. ;o)
gauss101 said:
Hi,
No, everything is in place and lined up ok. If I put in the broken screen it sits snuggly into its recess. Either I'm really thick, as nobody else seems to have had this problem, or a lot of people are either buying the original screens or happy with a Chinese wonky one. ;o)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's it hanging up on?
I've attached a couple of pics. One has the digitizer ribbon connector taped over and the is a brand that looks like LG? The cheap and cheerful one that don't fit is untaped and I think it's the digitizer connection that's fouling in the frame. There is a rebate in the frame for the connector and lcd chip but it's closer together. Bugger Samsung, I might just chuck it in a cupboard and get a Huawei............
Yeah something's screwy babalouie...
ifixit is suppose to be authorized to support Samsung replacement parts. I can't find it easily there, but check their site.
Plan B, use a ebay cheapo one.
Aliexpress has what they claim to be an original J600 screen for the J6 for under $16
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803433965446.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

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