Good video for Inspire 4G screen replacement? - HTC Inspire 4G

Has anyone seen a good take apart/repair guide for the Inspire4G. Just got digitizer replacement and cannot for the life of me figure out how to attach the ribbon cable without totally disassembling the phone. Hoping to avoid this.
If this is the wrong forum, please direct me to a better one rather than flaming me.
Thanks

Fairly certain that ifixit.com has a good teardown.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App

Thanks for the tip, but I find nothing for the DesireHD/Inspire4G there other than a total disassemble for the HD that I've already seen, but really did not help me. I just need to change to touch screen. I appreciate the try though.

Got it apart. And kinda back together. Apparently it is not a good idea to reuse the double sided tape that holds the LCD to the motherboard and the digitizer to the LCD. At least the phone works. Now, must order some proper adhesive tape and redo the whole thing.... Took me about 6 hours for whole breakdown and rebuild. Doesn't really seem to fit back together all that well though. Maybe I'll videotape my next breakdown.

Couple of questions as my phone is in need of a new digitizer too.
Did you have any other adhesive tapes in the process?
What did you use to cut the tape that held the LCD together after you baked it?
Does the phone mostly feel the same now that you have it back together, or does it feel flimsy now?
I'm disappointed that it's this difficult to replace the digitizer.

Jeffsmashkot said:
Couple of questions as my phone is in need of a new digitizer too.
Did you have any other adhesive tapes in the process?
What did you use to cut the tape that held the LCD together after you baked it?
Does the phone mostly feel the same now that you have it back together, or does it feel flimsy now?
I'm disappointed that it's this difficult to replace the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just so you know, I was a TOTAL noob in phone deconstruction. That being said, the old adhesive seemed quite sticky after i took it apart so I just reused it. Mistake number one. Once it was back together, i notice it slowly opening up like an accordion. The tape wasn't holding and the LCD, digitizer assembly started to rise up. I have since ordered some adhesive tape from the place I got the digitizer from. Definitely get the tape.
I did not bake it as in the video (i assume you watched the same one I did). I used an old spark plug gauge tool thingie to just cut through the tape. It was still really sticky so after i struggled to insert the digitizer ribbon cable, I just reused it. Don't do this. Get new tape.
I did have some plain old scotch double sided tape. I used it in one spot. Lesson: Don't use this stuff. Get new tape.
Did I mention that I think you should get new tape? All in all, it was quite laborious. I went really slowly so as not to brick it. When it was done the phone worked, but like I said the LCD raised up after a couple of minutes. The adhesive was not working anymore. At least I have gained confidence for the next take-apart. I can't believe i GOTTA go alll the way back to total break down. Aaaarrrgh.

So something like this should do the trick?
http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html
Thanks for the heads up... Where exactly do you recommend putting the tape? Does it just go on the black edges of the digitizer, or does it actually go on the surface of the LCD? Sorry if that's a noob question, but I haven't gotten the glass off and I want to make sure I have enough adhesive tape from the Ebay Vendor. Did you have any issues with reusing the mylar?
Sorry for the 1000 questions, I really don't want to shell out off contract prices for another phone...

Mylars were all reusable if removed carefully. I photographed every step so I would know what to put back where. Still waiting for my tape from Repairs Universe. The biggest two culprits are:
1] Tape holding back of LCD to the silver chassis frame and
2] Tape holding SIM FPC to the main board.
You might also tape the PCB cover to the upper board, mine was loose after rebuild.
That I believe that is it for the major tape requirements. Of course the digitizer needs to be taped to the LCD. I'm curious, though, the tape framing the LCD holding the digitizer seemed to have some thickness to it. Almost like foam rubber, quite thin, but thicker than regular cellophane tape.
Good luck. Let me know if you have any tips after your attempt.

Got the tape. Retried to rebuild with new OEM tape. Same result. The phone when completed expands like an accordion. The digitizer/LCD assembly does not stay stick to whatever is under it. I know when to admit defeat. Looks like I'm shelling out 500 for another phone. At least I have spare parts!

yeah i was going to do my screen myself till i seen the tear down & then called afew places around here that does screen replacements and said NO we won't touch the Inspire, i spent the money and let HTC fix it. was worth it they replaced the whole shell not just the screen ... IE lcd / digitizer / Outer case that was scratched and dented... basically a new phone with the guts out of my phone

I attempted to do this and let me just say that I too now have spare parts. I purchased a phone off of ebay. I didn't realize the no contract price went up to around 500.00 I should have gone directly to HTC. Live and learn...

I will be in possession of an HTC Inspire for testing purposes that also has a cracked screen. Not sure how bad it is but I was planning on just replacing the display for learning purposes. However it seems that it may not be worth the time spent.
If I do decide to give it a go I'll post my results here. First thing is to acquire new tape. Did you all purchase it locally or did you buy the adhesive online?

YouTube has lots of videos. Best to watch a few a see the best way. If you are scared to break it best you send it in for repair instead. Get a digitizer and screen combo.

Related

Eris cracked screen help

so i dropped my phone just the outer glass broke the lcd is find i was wondering where i can get the cheepest replacement for that i realy dont know what the price goes for but id rather not spend 500 on a retail andriod phone. my upgrade is like 3 months
Report it broken, pay $90 for a replacement through Asurion. Cheaper than $500, y'know?
Sent from my FroyoEris
You need to google for a eris digitizer.
LMGTFY
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...fai=CMBq5koWzTNrsN46EygTEha3rCQAAAKoEBU_Q0wbi
i think u can get them for like 40+ dollars off ebay
If you don't mind the long shipping times, you can get a digitizer + the entire housing together for around $60 on ebay. Doesn't seem like a bad deal to me.
#EDIT#
Zombie post . . . sorry about that. Need to remember to look at dates before replying.
Palmbxr said:
so i dropped my phone just the outer glass broke the lcd is find i was wondering where i can get the cheepest replacement for that i realy dont know what the price goes for but id rather not spend 500 on a retail andriod phone. my upgrade is like 3 months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replace mine, and is wasn't too bad. There is videos on YouTube about how to do it. It took me about an hour, and the part costs about 40 bucks. If you need any help with it, feel free to email me [email protected]
Aaron
you can get one @ 49usd
http://www.htcrepairparts.com/touch-screen-digitizer-for-htc-g5-eris-p-2727.html
Palmbxr said:
so i dropped my phone just the outer glass broke the lcd is find i was wondering where i can get the cheepest replacement for that i realy dont know what the price goes for but id rather not spend 500 on a retail andriod phone. my upgrade is like 3 months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going through the same thing. Amazon has some digitizers for about $40. I decided to spend the extra $20 and get this instead
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F5CEDW
It's the whole casing. I didn't want to bother with stripping the digitzer off the frame which is glued on. With replacing the whole body, you just move the mainboard over and plug everything back in. At least this is my hope. I'll post here again when the thing actually arrives. I ordered it two weeks ago and it probably won't be here until mid March.
Good luck with whatever you decided to go with.
UPDATE. hmmm october was the post date. I guess this guy has long taken care of his problem
Are there any particular tools needed? I swear my other half is on a mission to destroy her phone. It'd be good to know how to do some of the possible DIY stuff.
roscuthiii said:
Are there any particular tools needed? I swear my other half is on a mission to destroy her phone. It'd be good to know how to do some of the possible DIY stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's Youtube videos for disassembly. I haven't watched them myself, but I know they exist, so they probably tell you what tools you need there. From what I remember hearing, just some small torx screwdrivers, or maybe some small phillips, too, but don't quote me on those.
Here is a link to the teardown video I followed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHwm-32BI0w
The amazon link in my previous post is what I bought. It was the whole body. There are just screen replacements but I didn't want to mess with that because the digitizer is glued to the front piece. I didn't want to risk warping or breaking the front piece and completely screwing myself over. Anyway, what I bought came with the tools you need to perform the teardown and an extra screwdriver that was not needed.
I am glad I did this. However, it came with it's share of issues.
-The very top of my digitizer does not work. As a result, I can't pull down the notification bar. I can get to it through the menu button but it is annoying.
-I had to move the ear speaker and loudspeaker over. They were glued to some foam which was stuck/glued to the chassis. That foam absorbed the vibration. When my phone rings loud it is nasty because the speaker is bouncing around. I tried to cut some foam myself to replace what was stuck in the old case. It helped but it's not perfect.
-There are some rubber buffers? Isolators? Not sure what their called which also needed to be moved over form the old case.
-It took a month to ship to my house. After discovering these issues, I am kind've stuck with them because it would take a month to send the parts back and another month to get a replacement. By then I'll be due for a new phone.
So that's my experience of replacing the whole case.
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
My pleasure. Glad to help out.
Sent from my Eris using XDA App
To add to this, because I'm sure there are others out there like me who intend to use their Eris until it gets run over, dropped in lava, drawn, quartered, and defecated upon . . .
I ordered the same replacement housing and digitizer as mentioned above, and had 2 small problems:
The housing I got had a nut in it that came loose, so that one of the corners wasn't able to reassemble properly.
There was something different in the new housing that caused the proximity sensor to function incorrectly.
For #1, I just used some super glue to weld the nut into place. This appears to have worked OK, but I fear that the point is weakened now and I will need to be very gentle if I disassemble the phone again.
For #2, The problem was that the housing was allowing bleed through inside the case from the proximity flasher to the light sensor, which caused the sensor to determine that there was something close to it when in fact there wasn't. I placed a small (oh so small) piece of electrical tape into the housing between where the IR flasher and sensor are located, and the problem was resolved.
If presented with the option of purchasing a new digitizer alone, or a new digitizer and housing together, follow groovel76's suggestion; it's well worth the time and money to go with the latter. The hassle of cleaning the old adhesive off of the new housing, and the risks of getting new adhesive in places where you don't want it far outweigh the cost of just getting a housing with adhesive pre-applied. I tried to do just a digitizer first, and ended up with a small amount of super glue (DO NOT RECOMMEND) getting on the new screen and the edge of the housing, as well as a screen that didn't seat properly because I didn't get quite all of the old bits out of the old housing. This resulted in dust getting under the screen and another crack when I attempted to fix what I'd screwed up the first time.
Between the availability of parts and ROMs for this phone, I see it being in my family for a LONG time yet.
Yes! Buy a digitizer online (most come with the tools you need such as the torx screwdrivers, mine did) and search for videos on youtube. That's what I did and it only cost me $37 for the digitizer and about 30 minutes of my time. And it worked perfectly as new when I got it all back together.

[Q] Screen Replacement

I just ordered a new screen to replace my cracked one. But everywhere they advice to by adhesive tape. I have search all the web and I have found multiples videos and guides in how to replace the screen, but nowhere they mentioned what is the adhesive tape for. Can anybody point htis out for me?
To secure the screen to the rest of the phone. You need it, double sided tape.
Sent via LG E970 with houstonn aokp 4.2.2
How much did you pay for the screen? I want to repair my old Inspire. Also, was that with the digitizer?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727.
If you replace the screen make sure you have a heat gun, adhesive. And heat up the old one to release the cracked screen. I just replaced mine and if you can't salvage the adhesive or get some more(not 2sided tape! You need the right stuff. Black industrial adhesive, rsdioshack should have it) I didn't think it was that big of a deal and learned the hard way.
1. Heat up the sides of the front. That's where HTC concreted the screen on. Greez stay patient, the digitizer is really on good.
2. Be careful not to tear the main ribbon under the battery. I did, its on good too.
3. Volume ribbon on the side. When you go to remove the casing make sure to get it out the way or its ripped off.
I've learned from my screw ups but now I'm a subject matter expert.
Not trying to be a know it all but I wish someone would have given me a heads up on certain issues with this phone. It's put together very good. I only buy HTC for this reason. Sucks when you have to take it apart though. Ha! Oh and get the tool kit, most screens for sale on eBay come with em free. Let me know if you have any concerns I can surely guide you in the right direction. Get the adhesive!
Sent from my HTC Holiday using xda app-developers app

Replacing the tab 2 7 digitizer

My Tab 2 7 had a swirling crack on the digitizer (touchscreen). Looked for a tutorial on how to replace it in vain. Saw the teardown at Tech Republic, but that's it. No mention anywhere that I could find about how to do it. Decided to bite the bullet and ventured to fit a new one. Successful. Wrote down a quick guide thinking it might help someone since I saw a bunch of tabs with smashed digitizers on Ebay. Some claim it's gorilla glass, which makes me kind of wonder why they shatter so readily. I know, gorilla glass only scratch-resistant, but still...
Samsung sticks the digitizer to the bezel-frame with a tough double-sided tape, similar to the kind Asus uses on its tabs. A tutorial for the Tab 2 10 shows the use of a putty knife to scrape the digitizer off its frame, which wouldn't work with the 7, as its bezel-frame almost totally covers the edge of the glass back side. On the other hand, inserting anything metal in between from the front would scuff it badly.
The LCD display was taped to the magnesium frame, but is separate from the touchscreen, which need not be removed when replacing the digitizer.
What you need to do is to follow the steps in the teardown referred to above. As Tech Republic correctly pointed out, the internal layout is quite neat, unlike some of the tabs I've had the chance to disassemble. There are many thin cables, however, and you need to proceed with patience.
You must remove all components, so that only the frame with the digitizer and LCD is left. Eventually, you'd have to employ some source of heat, be it a heat gun, a hair dryer or a heat lamp to soften or to some extent melt the adhesive of the digitizer. Leaving any electronic component in place and the heat might destroy it. You can use brute force to separate the digitizer from the frame, but you'd more likely than not damage the LCD in the process.
What I did was use a heat gun at ~500 F, held at about 1 to 2 inches from the edge of the digitizer, and went back and forth over it, one side at a time, for no more than 30 to 35 seconds. I used a blunt object to push the glass out at spots plainly visible as illustrated in the attached thumbs below, then slid a plastic tool with a flared end to pry it from the bezel along its edge. Be careful how you handle the frame, since it would get burning hot at this point. As I moved from one side to another, I wedged a guitar pick between the glass and the frame to prevent them from sticking back together. You might pulverize parts of the glass as you go along, but in general it flexes quite a bit and wouldn't shatter.
Once you get it out, you need to remove the residual tape on the frame. The digitizer I bought was lined with new tape so I didn't have use any extra adhesive. It doesn't bind as strongly as the original tape, but enough to hold everything in place.
Putting it back is just the reverse. I took the extra step of reassembling the whole thing first with just the digitizer hanging loose, plugged it in, turned the tab on to make sure it functioned correctly before bonding it to the frame.
Basically, the process is nothing new. However, just the fact that someone has done it might give confidence to other DIYers in the future. Feel free to ask if any questions.
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-samsung-galaxy-tab-2-70/6360139?
Thanks im going to give it a go. Any walkthrough tips by anyone else appreciated
Replacing the digitizer on this device is among the easiest ive seen. With no heat or taking anything off except the back I fixed one with only an isesamo

Problems changing Digitizer.

I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.

U12+ Display replacement

Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs
https://tinyurl.com/htcu12
Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck

Categories

Resources