Related
So I got my car dock, I knew it didn't come with a line out, but figured I could add one. You all know how aewsome it would be to have a line out jack on this thing rather than the stock "speakers". Well good news, I am going to make myself a line out and will post pictures about how I am doing it.
I have the thing taken apart right now, and just need to go buy a 3.5mm audio jack.
So, my plan will be to still use the cardock for phone and stereo profiles, just using my car stereo's aux in rather than the dock's weak speakers. I'll leave the microphones on the dock intact, just not the speakers. The good news is the speakers are removable, making room for a 3.5mm audio jack. the bad news? the jack will have to be on the dock body, not base. I'm sure if you try hard enough, one of yoiu will find a place in the base for a jack, but for now, I'm going to add one to the body, on the bottom (in portrait mode).
There you have it, I'll be able to make the dock a semi-permanent fixture in my car and never have to plug in an audio cable to get my music through my car speakers.
Pictures to follow soon, I just couldn't wait to start this project, and get some reactions / moral support.
Someone else looked at doing the same thing a while back. I seem to recall they came up against several hurdles. It is not as clear cut as it seems.
On the face of it- it would seem the approach you are taking will necessitate you having your car stereo ON and AUX selected any time you need to take a phone call. Might be a bit of a pain when you are for example, listening to the car radio and your phone rings. Or if the phone rings and your stereo happens to be turned off.
I find the inbuilt speakers totally adequate for Phone Audio. This arrangement has the benefit it being standalone and means N1 Phone Audio works regardless of current car stereo state. I send the Media Audio to my car stereo via BT though, as it sure benefits from the better speakers quality and auto pauses the Media when the phone is in use.
Good luck with it and do a search for the other thread as there is some good info info in there.
PS take a look through this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=6427057&postcount=39
Might save you some heart ache
I only found that thread, after i had my dock quite disassembled and did a google search for the chipset under the RF shield. :/
I don't use my car's head unit for anything but aux audio, radio is dead to me, so I shouldn't have any problems. The hurdle is the audio being fed to the speakers do NOT share a common ground. They utilize an active-balanced system. both leads are hot, common to themselves.
Now it seems as I will have to choose which channel gets full audio and just bum 'common' from the dominant channel. or i come up with some way to convert two independent balanced audio feeds to a common ground.
I have had no luck looking up the NF2301 daughter board. I was hoping to find a schematic detailing the line level outputs, but no go. I did think it was interesting that the car dock and desktop dock share the same PCB, too bad there is no detailed schematic yet...
FAILURE - giving up
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Alternatively, at the point you have a desktop dock.... Instead of butchering it for the board, Just install it somewhere out of site in your car and connect it to your cars Aux-in with a 3.5mm lead. Thats what I have done. Works well. Only downside is I still have to manually connect the desktop. It does not autoconnect to deskdock when N1 is placed in cardock obviously.
Too bad your set up did not work for now.
kajer said:
So, after creatively placing some resistors and whatnot, I got a decent line level with common ground, that won't blow up the built-in amp. However, as pointed out in that other thread, there is some BS DSP that notches the lower frequencies out of the signal to the speakers. I got it all setup in my car, plugged in to my aux-out, and it sounded like i was using the voice profile. I took the aux cable and plugged into my headphone jack on the phone, and all the bass came through just fine.
So, for now? The audio out on the car dock is meant for the crappy on-board speakers. not real ones. Sad...
Now, it seems the only way to get an aux out of the cardock would be to swap the board with a desktop dock, and cut a hole for the aux jack, or just do some more soldering to not modify the casing of the cardock.
Too bad, I had it working, but the damn DSP chip/amp puts out ****ty audio quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it's using a low bitrate A2DP bluetooth transfer. Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
khaytsus said:
Either way, bluetooth will be lower quality than a direct plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe this is the likely reason why Google didn't include an audio out port on the dock. Yes, it's on the desktop dock, but that's really all the desktop dock handles, whereas the car dock has a mic as well, etc.
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
wonkotron said:
I would be interested in detailed disassembly instructions if you wouldn't mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
detail isn't really necessary, it's pretty straightforward.
-get a knife and use it to peel off the black rectangular sticker on the front of the dock. it's right where the battery on the phone is when it's docked.
-undo the 4 screws behind the sticker
-pop the two halves of the phone-holder part of the dock apart. if you can't get them apart with a bit of pulling get your thumb nail or a knife in between the two halves.
that's about as far as you need to go to get to the useful bits.
jamezracer said:
Stuff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I'll see if I can figure anything out.
I had this same idea when I first got my car dock, but I couldn't convince myself to hack my new dock. Instead I hacked an old stereo Bluetooth headset with the same mod and it works perfectly.
Don't ignore this post...
Ok So I took a dive in to it. I disassembled my dock (yes even after reading all that I could find on the internet, including this thread), but in disbelief I wanted to find out for my self. I soldered a head phone jack to the speaker wires, and thought I had something good when connected to my computer speakers. (it worked and I was surprised). But after hooking it all up in the car and actually hearing the quality, I was sorrily disappointed.
Major failure, the sound is terrible. Not tolerable at all. Comparable to scratching fingernails across a chalk board and trying to listen to some good tunes at the same time from an FM radio with very poor reception.
Heed my warning, do not attempt to mod the dock for an FM out, it will not work.
Im asking all you guys to help me find best methods, settings, and tweaks to get the best possible audio recordings on my SGS4G. Im asking this not only from the devs here but from all the audiophiles as well.
The reason im starting this thread is that my partners iphone 4 just with the built in mic and camera has produced video and audio recordings 10x better then what this phone has. With great dynamic quality and no distortion or anything. I need broadcast quality recordings for this project to succeed. If i am not able to do so im either going to have to try to clone the SIM card and get a used iphone 3GS just for field work, or give up this phone and switch to an iphone 4. Either of which i really dont want to do. If part of the solution is to dump GB and go back to Froyo, then so be it.
Heres what i got:
1. Highly modded SGS4G with Valhalla 1.3.2, Launcher Pro Plus
2. 32GB class 4 Sandisk card
3. UV using the settings in the ICBINB therad (i tried some lower ones dsexton posted, but they made the phone very unstable)
4. Voodoo Plus sound app
5. i-Microphone (sound was horrible, more on this later) http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B004XC6KHS/ref=nosim/betteraddons-20
6. Sennheiser E835 with XLR to 3.5 mono minijack adapter
7. Rec Forge and Hi-Q MP3 recorder (trying both, if you know of any with more features please share)
First off, im concerned that the custom ROM, kernal, and UV settings may be affecting quality. Any input on this would be appreciated. Ive tried OC, but 1.2ghz was never stable and 1.3ghz drained the battery too much.
I first off was looking for a good solution for face to face interviews, i found the i-mic (link above) to have good reviews, but when i bought it and tried it out, the recordings were horrible! Like someone was rubbing their fingers over the mic when talking. I tried gain adjustments in Voodoo and the recording apps im trying out, but nothing helped.
I plugged in my new Sennheiser using a XLR to RCA cable, with a RCA to mini jack adapter. The sound is A LOT better, but still there is a humming over the recordings, and they just do not have the dynamic quality that im hearing with the iphone recordings.
Are there any equalizer and sound processing apps for commercial or professional audio work out there?
Im at a wall here, any help to these issues would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
It's hard to tell exactly without seeing your set-up but it sounds like you have the following issue.
The XLR is a balanced connector. When you go to an RCA you are dropping down to an unbalanced connector and losing your ground. That is where the hum would stem from.
To eliminate the hum you would need a cable that converts directly from your balanced XLR to a balanced T/R/S (Tip, Ring Sleeve) mini jack. This mini jack has 3 separate contact points, separated by two plastic bands on the plug instead of one.
Ideally for broadcast quality you would need to run your Sennheiser E835 into some sort of mixer with a mic preamp. Then run the line level out from the mixer to the SGS4G. Your recordings would be crystal clear at this point.
I don't believe your issue is with the SGS4G hardware. I use the camcorder with the built in mic all the time and the audio quality is fine.
Hope this helps.
you don't need a balanced connection unless you are talking about long mic cables like over 5 feet long and equipment that is plugged into AC current. Balanced connections are for getting rid of the 60 cycle AC hum, basically.
If I was trying to record using a 4g I would think about using the usb input and some kind of analog to digital converter box. Here is a cheap one -- $25 behringer UCA 202 providing 2 RCA inputs-- it's about the size of a phone. and supposed to work on linux without drivers so maybe it will work on android. I have three of them and use them for laptops. They're pretty good at eliminating noise. I just don't know if the phone has enough power to operate the unit. You need a female to female standard usb adapter to connect the data cable to the converter and something to adapt a (short) mic cable to an RCA port. if it works you can use a dynamic mic like a AKG or Shure or some smaller dynamic mic and will get better recordings than anything built into any phone. It will be a little bit bulky but you'll still be able to fit the whole thing in your pocket. I should try it with my phone and see if it works but I need to get the female to female adapter. if the phone recognizes the UCA202 it should work just fine with a Sennheiser E835. My girlfriend uses a Sennheiser MD-431 for recording songs with her laptop and one of those units.
They also have usb mic adapters at places like guitar center. If you have the female to female USB connector you can take your 4g to guitar center or wherever and try their mics out before you buy anything.
@Nazcalito....great advice, I guess spending all my time on a control room board I hear the word 'hum' and immediately think 'where's the dirty gear, who's missing a direct box.' Haven't used a cable under 10ft in as many years. I'd be very interested to know if someone could get the USB audio/phone rig cooking on or s4g, that would be sweet.
Sent from my SGH-T959V
Thanks for all the responses, ive been playing around with this and i do think the hardware is the biggest issue. I noticed the issue im having is that the built in mic is not turning off when using an external one. When using the external mic, i can tap over the back mic and get the feedback from it as well as the audio from the external mic.
Now the built in 3.5mm jack is a four contact TRRS plug, the RCA to minijack adapter is only two contacts. This would explain why the little plug in mic was getting all the feedback. Though even that mini i-mic was a TRRS plug like the headset thats included with the SGS4G. Why is the built in mic not turning off?
Nazcalito, your suggestion of the USB audio interface may work, i did consider a microphone with a USB connection, though i could not find any accounts of this working by simply plugging the mic in to the phone with a USB to microUSB adapter, and didnt want to take the chance. Though i like the converter box you showed a pic of, i could just velcro it to the back of the phone to make a mobile unit. I'll probably buy one if youre able to confirm it works. Again would i have the same issue with the internal mic not turning off when using this?
One thing i ordered was something called the headset buddy, its a TRRS male plug that splits into two separate minijacks for headphone and microphone. Im hoping this will solve the problem.
http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B002SK66OY/ref=nosim/betteraddons-20
Another concern is the pinout of the SGS4G. Ive found diagrams for the i9000 that shows the mic and ground contacts swapped, and others with the regular mic as the last pin that claim they are for the Galaxy S2 and SGS4G. Anyone can confirm? This might explain the internal mic staying on.
http://pinoutsguide.com/CellularPhones-P-W/samsung_galaxy_headset_pinout.shtml
http://pinoutsguide.com/HeadsetsHeadphones/samsung_i9100_headset_pinout.shtml
As well should i have all the options in Voodoo turned on for this?
Ya know, i wish i didnt order the headset buddy already, i would have tried this:
http://www.kvconnection.com/product-p/km-droid-x43.htm
Caligula36 said:
Ya know, i wish i didnt order the headset buddy already, i would have tried this:
http://www.kvconnection.com/product-p/km-droid-x43.htm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks like a very handy piece of gear.
Bump
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA App
The adapter did not help, the internal mic is still staying on.
That's not good. I have a similar problem occasionally with headphones not muting the speaker when used...I have to wiggle the plug a little until it mutes. The contacts are definitely a little touchy.
Sent from my SGH-T959V
Can anyone with a stock froyo SGS4G try plugging in an external mic and see if that solves it?
So I'm in the planning stages to dash mount a Galaxy Tab 7.0 Plus (still haven't bought the tablet yet), and wanted to know where I could find an accessory similar to the Galaxy Tab Multimedia Dock. My goal is to have one connection that will give me both power and audio out to my stereo. The desktop dock can accomplish this for me, but its very bulky and wont be easy to fit in my dash. I could take the dock apart and make it work, but would prefer not to waste 35 dollars like that.
So far the only other item I found that may work is this RCA Composite Cable with USB, but it says only for the original and some of the reviews mention the cable not having the usb attachment as pictured.
Does anyone else have any suggestions?
Finally found it on Amazon after a few days of looking. 30 Pin to USB Charging and 3.5mm Audio Out
Just ordered it and will post pics of my finished car installation and let anyone else who's interested know if it works or not.
isolated_epidemic said:
Finally found it on Amazon after a few days of looking. 30 Pin to USB Charging and 3.5mm Audio Out
Just ordered it and will post pics of my finished car installation and let anyone else who's interested know if it works or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let us know how you make out with this. I'd be curious to see if it's compatible with the 6210.
Both of the cables I listed work great. The only issue I have noticed is that at when the stereo is turned up you can hear interference from the power cable. When the music is playing you can't hear it at all.
As I mentioned, here is a picture of the final product. It's hinged on the bottom and clips into place with the standard mounting hardware. FYI it's inside a 2000 Nissan Xterra XE. The volume knob is where the second lighter adapter was. I just hooked in an inline volume knob to adjust the output from the tablet to the stereo. I replaced the included knob with one I ripped off an old stereo. You can barely see that I also installed an auxiliary input jack that somehow miraculously reduces the volume of the tablet when another device is hooked in. All of the "guts are stored inside the dash where all of the other wires are located. If anyone is interested I can post more pictures.
Thanks for the follow up. The final product looks very good. Nice work!
Nice install. Thanks for sharing.
Man, that cable would have come in useful when i was still direct-connecting my tablet. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Put a PAC SN1 inline with your audio to reduce your ground loop interference - that's what i used when i was direct connecting the audio.
Also have this set up on my dash, but I've jumped to the 7.7 and gave the 7 Plus to my wife. I actually prefer to use bluetooth to connect the audio because i can use the car's steering control to control advance/reverse of media.
I'm putting up pics soon of my setup in the 7.7 forum.
rEVOLVE said:
Man, that cable would have come in useful when i was still direct-connecting my tablet. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Put a PAC SN1 inline with your audio to reduce your ground loop interference - that's what i used when i was direct connecting the audio.
Also have this set up on my dash, but I've jumped to the 7.7 and gave the 7 Plus to my wife. I actually prefer to use bluetooth to connect the audio because i can use the car's steering control to control advance/reverse of media.
I'm putting up pics soon of my setup in the 7.7 forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up. I was prepared to live with the interference because I didn't know I had a choice. I found a PAC SNI-1 ground loop noise isolator for 14 bucks on eBay. Can't wait to install it and get back to clear audio.
On a side note; after about a month with this tablet in my car, I have to say I'm in love. With the power plugged in and screen on while charging activated, the tablet turns on when I start the car, just like any stereo would. Also when I take it out at night it makes my car look already-broken-into and deters the motherlovin thieves that have been breaking into neighborhood cars.
By the way, does anyone know how to remove the annoying 100% charged sound? It can get especially irritating when I have plenty of stops to make and the tablet loses a percent and gains it back everytime I turn the car off and on again.
Hello.
I'm trying to figure out and possible find a solution for why some headphones don't work with some phones?
For example a very well known brand Scullcandy. Their line of Skullcandy FIX Bud headphones work fine with Galaxy S2, but don't work with Galaxy S3, they also don't work with LG Nitro HD.
On GS3 they work for media playback, but when trying dial out or answer a call, the phone totally disconnects the headphones, the icon that shows when headphones are plugged in is no longer showed and at that point one has to physically re-plug the headphones in order to use them for media playback.
It does sound like phone's software issue, I sure hope so and there is a way fix it...
Another phone I had bad experience was LG Nitro HD. Even though the phone is totally waste of money it don't accept any iphone type headphones, they might work for playback, but mic or buttons don't work.
So what could possibly causing this issues?
I've tried post on phone related sections, but got no answers...
I also tried contact Samsung support regarding this issue, but they simply blew me off with "we don't provide support for 3nd hardware". Now I'm waiting for an answer from Skullcandy support.
Any ideas?
Thank you.
Probably the 3-pin layout of your phone. some are really weird in the way they work
x10man
There might be a couple reasons. The first is the connector. Some headsets use a three pole connector while others use a four pole connector. The other issue will likely be he pin out. The headphone jack might be a standard mechanical interface but not electrically. Both are hard problems but an adapter cable might help you.
All headphones connectors in question are 4 pin type, without using micrometer they look identical. Since all these headphones works fine in mp3 players, where only 3 pin connectors used, means the 3 out of 4 pins are in proper places and connected properly inside the wire.
So, without taking headphones apart it seems physically there is nothing different between them.
In addition, if there would be something physically wrong, it would not explain, why SGS3 sense when Skullcandy headphones connected, it shows headphones icon, but when a phone call initialized it "forgets" about it.
It sure seem to me like software related..
I just received my Tronsmart TS7 Glacier from Geekbuying. The phone is a nice HTC One lookalike with some awesome features including a long life 2200 mah battery, MTK6589 Quad Core processor, 1 GB RAM and a crystal clear screen. It is extremely well built and feels both heavy and solidi the hand. The included cover is rubbish, though it is free in the package so I'm not going to complain. Bluetooth supports A2DP, which works well with my Bluetooth stereo. The bottom menu, home and back keys are capacitive and illuminated - though they are so dim, that they could have avoided backlighting them altogether.The device was easy enough to root, so all in all great value. Make sure you ask for a discount for the phone, after initiating live chat on Geekbuying. I am not affiliated to them.
Oddly enough, the package had the IMEI stickers in the box, which said Cubot One. They look visually identical and I wanted to check if they are infact the same pieces, for firmware support. Can anyone confirm this please?
The supplied headset is rubbish, so I used a BlackBerry and an iPhone "headset" (Headphones with a built in mic and that has 4 contacts on the end of the 3.5mm jack) and used it with the phone. Unfortunately the headset is detected as a headphone only (i.e. With no mic; You see this on an icon near the Wifi signal) - spitting out terrible muffled sounds, unless I press and hold the (Call / End) button on the cord. The second I let go of the button, the sound returns to a terrible state.
If I plug in regular headphones, without a mic, I'm fine, but I have this problem with headsets (Again - headphones with a built in mic with call / end button) used with the TS7.Do any of you have a similar issue? I'm worried I got a half lemon. It's really bothering me. Can this be fixed by software?
Would love to hear back from you. on whether this is a common problem, or one only with my set.
P.S. The rubbish supplied headset is detected / works fine - But they sound TERRIBLE! The supplied headset also works well with my Blackberry 9790 - but my Blackberry headset does not work well with the TS7. Any thoughts? Do I need a special headset?
Thanks in advance,
GP = Dubai
Bump...
Anyone!?
g_patkar said:
I just received my Tronsmart TS7 Glacier from Geekbuying. The phone is a nice HTC One lookalike with some awesome features including a long life 2200 mah battery, MTK6589 Quad Core processor, 1 GB RAM and a crystal clear screen. It is extremely well built and feels both heavy and solidi the hand. The included cover is rubbish, though it is free in the package so I'm not going to complain. Bluetooth supports A2DP, which works well with my Bluetooth stereo. The bottom menu, home and back keys are capacitive and illuminated - though they are so dim, that they could have avoided backlighting them altogether.The device was easy enough to root, so all in all great value. Make sure you ask for a discount for the phone, after initiating live chat on Geekbuying. I am not affiliated to them.
Oddly enough, the package had the IMEI stickers in the box, which said Cubot One. They look visually identical and I wanted to check if they are infact the same pieces, for firmware support. Can anyone confirm this please?
The supplied headset is rubbish, so I used a BlackBerry and an iPhone "headset" (Headphones with a built in mic and that has 4 contacts on the end of the 3.5mm jack) and used it with the phone. Unfortunately the headset is detected as a headphone only (i.e. With no mic; You see this on an icon near the Wifi signal) - spitting out terrible muffled sounds, unless I press and hold the (Call / End) button on the cord. The second I let go of the button, the sound returns to a terrible state.
If I plug in regular headphones, without a mic, I'm fine, but I have this problem with headsets (Again - headphones with a built in mic with call / end button) used with the TS7.Do any of you have a similar issue? I'm worried I got a half lemon. It's really bothering me. Can this be fixed by software?
Would love to hear back from you. on whether this is a common problem, or one only with my set.
P.S. The rubbish supplied headset is detected / works fine - But they sound TERRIBLE! The supplied headset also works well with my Blackberry 9790 - but my Blackberry headset does not work well with the TS7. Any thoughts? Do I need a special headset?
Thanks in advance,
GP = Dubai
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there are several kinds of headset with MIC. IPHONE'S can not work with chinese phone. NOKIA'S works
g_patkar said:
Bump...
Anyone!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I have the Cubot One, and have exact the same problem. The rubbish boxed white earphone works, but any of my Sennheisers wont. I think it has something to do with the TRRS standards but I have no fix yet. Have you solved it already??
I have the same problem!
g_patkar said:
Bump...
Anyone!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem man, and I was wondering If I'm the only one!!!
I tried with sony ericsson headphones...
And I have an additional problem.. when I connect my phone to my pc speakers or my amplifier and the big speakers, It pauses the music, disconnects and connects again to the cable... Every time I press play it does the same!
And another thing that I couldn't figure out with this phone is that when I go to install a big game it tries to install the sd data to phone's storage,
and says that I don't have enought free space... Even though from starage setting I have set both those settings to SD card!!!
alexander703806 said:
I have the same problem man, and I was wondering If I'm the only one!!!
I tried with sony ericsson headphones...
And I have an additional problem.. when I connect my phone to my pc speakers or my amplifier and the big speakers, It pauses the music, disconnects and connects again to the cable... Every time I press play it does the same!
And another thing that I couldn't figure out with this phone is that when I go to install a big game it tries to install the sd data to phone's storage,
and says that I don't have enought free space... Even though from starage setting I have set both those settings to SD card!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fount this topic because and I have that problem and do just what you say. I got my phone few days ago.
I try one my in-ear headphones and have terrible sound, then I try speakers from the computer, and when I press play, it let sound for 1 sec and stop immediately. My first conclusion was that perhaps it has a weak sound output on jack, or headphones and speakers have too much ohms resistance.
II hope you will find some solution.
For the memory, try replacing the internal memory to the memory card using this procedure (put link in google translator to translate in english): http://www.htcmania.com/showthread.php?t=616319
Hi there. I do not have the pausing problem, but I can now listen to any headphones / headsets with an adapter I bought from eBay.
Seach for "iphone to nokia adapter" on Ebay. It should cost between $2.50 to $3.00.
Hope it helps - I am enjoying all my headsets with the TS7 now (Blackberry, iphone, beats etc).
Do any of you know if there are any firmware updates for this phone?
Thanks...
g_patkar said:
Hi there. I do not have the pausing problem, but I can now listen to any headphones / headsets with an adapter I bought from eBay.
Seach for "iphone to nokia adapter" on Ebay. It should cost between $2.50 to $3.00.
Hope it helps - I am enjoying all my headsets with the TS7 now (Blackberry, iphone, beats etc).
Do any of you know if there are any firmware updates for this phone?
Thanks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm it works. I just got a cable that I ordered 14.4. for headphones. Now the sound is normal (no more like to play in a barrel), and recognizes the headset with a microphone (in the taskbar near the clock displays the headset with a microphone, before was just headphone icon). But I still can not play music through the speakers of the computer. Immediately after press play, the song stops and disconnect the speakers. Probably they have too much resistance or something that can not "push" sound.
Oh, and here's a link cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/22132695223...arms=gh1g=I221326952237.N19.S2.M-34513.R2.TR2