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My screen worked fine earlier today, then out of the blue went dark. It is as if the backlight is set at a permanent low setting. I can barely make out what is on the screen. It is not totally black, but it is by no means easily visible. I have not made any reg changes or application installs that I did not previously have.
Please help. This particular device was an insurance swap out made in November. I have tried hard resetting, and nothing. It is still a very dark screen--even the initial TMo boot screen is dark.
I am running Jaguar 3.1 by NTS.
PLEASE...help. I would very much appreciate any insight. Is my screen fried? Is it able to be fixed?
Thanks in advance.
akashastrega said:
My screen worked fine earlier today, then out of the blue went dark. It is as if the backlight is set at a permanent low setting. I can barely make out what is on the screen. It is not totally black, but it is by no means easily visible. I have not made any reg changes or application installs that I did not previously have.
Please help. This particular device was an insurance swap out made in November. I have tried hard resetting, and nothing. It is still a very dark screen--even the initial TMo boot screen is dark.
I am running Jaguar 3.1 by NTS.
PLEASE...help. I would very much appreciate any insight. Is my screen fried? Is it able to be fixed?
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can try the prog Mymobiler to see if your today screen is really dark (if it´s dark on your computer too, than i think it´s a software failure) if it´s shown normal on your computer than i don´t know, maybe hardware failure...
sorry can´t help more
steph
I have that program too, and didn't even think about that. I will try it and report back. Thanks for the idea.
EDIT
Everything works fine using My Mobiler. I was able to make sure power and brightness adjustments were made-but to no avail. I even flashed a different rom just to rule out rom failure. My screen is still dark. In bright light I can barely view the item, and that is with some serious squinting.
Could it be my screen needs replacing, or is this a bigger issue like the mobo? If you suspect the screen only, could you please suggest where I can get a replacement screen?
This sucks big time. I love my Wizard and really do not want to move to an inferior device (like a "regular" cellphone, or the Wing--which is what insurance would swap me with).
PLEASE HELP ME FIX MY WIZ!!
I remember a long time ago...
akashastrega said:
I have that program too, and didn't even think about that. I will try it and report back. Thanks for the idea.
EDIT
Everything works fine using My Mobiler. I was able to make sure power and brightness adjustments were made-but to no avail. I even flashed a different rom just to rule out rom failure. My screen is still dark. In bright light I can barely view the item, and that is with some serious squinting.
Could it be my screen needs replacing, or is this a bigger issue like the mobo? If you suspect the screen only, could you please suggest where I can get a replacement screen?
This sucks big time. I love my Wizard and really do not want to move to an inferior device (like a "regular" cellphone, or the Wing--which is what insurance would swap me with).
PLEASE HELP ME FIX MY WIZ!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The first time I have use a Pocket pc in settings I uncheck the square that say "Turn on backlight whena button i pressed or the screen is tapped".. or something, jeje every time I turned on my wizard, it hasn't light jaja.
But I think that your problem is hardware, you need another wizard to change displays... cause if you buy a new display... maybe the failure isfor the motherboard...
Think about it...
+ Que PPC said:
The first time I have use a Pocket pc in settings I uncheck the square that say "Turn on backlight whena button i pressed or the screen is tapped".. or something, jeje every time I turned on my wizard, it hasn't light jaja.
But I think that your problem is hardware, you need another wizard to change displays... cause if you buy a new display... maybe the failure isfor the motherboard...
Think about it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your quick responses!!
I was worried that the issue could go beyond just screen issues. Does anyone know a way to troubleshoot something like this? To find out if it is just a screen, or if the MoBo is going out on me...
**Or is anyone willing to sell me their working but no longer used wizard? I can afford about $100 (+shipping costs/insurance) for a used but working device. My hubby is unemployed and I am on disability so right now money is tight.
akashastrega said:
Thanks for your quick responses!!
I was worried that the issue could go beyond just screen issues. Does anyone know a way to troubleshoot something like this? To find out if it is just a screen, or if the MoBo is going out on me...
**Or is anyone willing to sell me their working but no longer used wizard? I can afford about $100 (+shipping costs/insurance) for a used but working device. My hubby is unemployed and I am on disability so right now money is tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check ebay, you maybe able to find a working phone for 100 bucks. Gook luck!
have you checked the wiring (flat cable) that connects to the screen.
maybe you just need to replace that. if the screen works, then it is just the LED's that are not responding. maybe just a loose connection, or a broken contact.
Does the keyboard light up?
i think i have the same problem or at least similar.
my screen backlight goes black from time to time when i press the screen "too hard", but that comes and goes.
interesting: i'm using homescreen plusplus (ex-batterystatus) to overclock my cpu with the option "set cpu speed at wakeup" activated. when i turn off my screen with the power button and then turn it on again, in most cases my backlight turns on, too.
but that's to enerving for me to live with that, so i disassembled my wizard and found some sort of black dot on the flat display connector. maybe it has something do with that? and if so, where can i get such a flex cable?
S.V.I said:
have you checked the wiring (flat cable) that connects to the screen.
maybe you just need to replace that. if the screen works, then it is just the LED's that are not responding. maybe just a loose connection, or a broken contact.
Does the keyboard light up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the manual--I used it when my usb was fubar'd--but I am a bit intimidated about doing something with my screen. Is it something that can be easily screwed up if I even look at it funny, or can I handle it carefully and not worry that the mere act of touching it will make it explode??!!
Perhaps I am being a bit dramatic, but you get the idea I think.
Do I have to be totally grounded out first? Do I need gloves on? Or do I just rip the dang thing apart and go at it?
Thanks for your help and responses.
akashastrega said:
I have the manual--I used it when my usb was fubar'd--but I am a bit intimidated about doing something with my screen. Is it something that can be easily screwed up if I even look at it funny, or can I handle it carefully and not worry that the mere act of touching it will make it explode??!!
Perhaps I am being a bit dramatic, but you get the idea I think.
Do I have to be totally grounded out first? Do I need gloves on? Or do I just rip the dang thing apart and go at it?
Thanks for your help and responses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get an anti-static kit in Radioshack!
Well I don't have a Wizard, so this might not be much help; however, I have had a similar problem with my Touch Elf after installing a new app. The dark screen did not appear until I performed a soft reset and I really started to panic because there was nothing I could do to change it. I could barely make anything out that was being displayed it was so dark. Even when I turn my screen brightness down it was not ever that dark. Just out of luck though I pluged my phone into my computer VIA USB and voila, the backlight came on. I could use my phone again and immediately navigated to my brightness display settings and turned it all the way up (it was set all the way down for some reason). I have not had this problem ever since. I don't know if you have tried this already or not - It was not mentioned in any posts.
Good luck
Rod
Check out eBay for a replacement LCD, I got one last week for € 32,- ($45,-) including the shipping costs.
BUT...when buying from eBay notice the following 2 things:
1) The screens are most of the times used screens with a new (hand-soldered) digitizer on it (but it is done nicely as far as I have seen).
2) Disassemble your Wizard, check if your LCD has a BLACK or a GOLDEN flex ribbon cable at the back.....when you purchase the wrong one, it will not work!
An alternative is just to buy a 2nd hand Wizard for like $70 / $80, buy a new housing for it ($40) and it looks brand new (except for the LCD, most LCD's do have some scratches on it).
A HTC Wizard Service Manual can be found in the Wizard section on the XDA Dev FTP Server (I use it a lot), sometimes when buying a LCD on eBay they will also send you the tools needed to disassemble and reassemble the Wizard.
Good luck!
jozzy said:
i think i have the same problem or at least similar.
my screen backlight goes black from time to time when i press the screen "too hard", but that comes and goes.
interesting: i'm using homescreen plusplus (ex-batterystatus) to overclock my cpu with the option "set cpu speed at wakeup" activated. when i turn off my screen with the power button and then turn it on again, in most cases my backlight turns on, too.
but that's to enerving for me to live with that, so i disassembled my wizard and found some sort of black dot on the flat display connector. maybe it has something do with that? and if so, where can i get such a flex cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can furnish you with a flex cable for $15.00, plus $5.00 for shipping. Let me know if you have an MDA or 8125.
Hiya,
I just replaced the flash on my G2. I bought it from KR-Net on ebay for USD$6. They sent me the tiny replacement board and even included the tools I needed to take apart the back of the phone and pop the case.
From getting the envelope to having my phone back to 100% was about 15 minutes.
Anyone who can turn a screwdriver can do this fix.
I've had several occasions where my flash stopped working, and all it took was a reboot. I would check if it's that before doing any hardware adjustments.
C_Adamanteus said:
I've had several occasions where my flash stopped working, and all it took was a reboot. I would check if it's that before doing any hardware adjustments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine was definitely dead. I went through the obvious checks.
flinkisme said:
Mine was definitely dead. I went through the obvious checks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That must have been frustrating. Atleast it all turned out well.
C_Adamanteus said:
That must have been frustrating. Atleast it all turned out well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was very frustrating. I don't take many pictures, but I used a flashlight app almost on a daily basis, as well as Instant Heart Rate Monitor. I thought about replacing only the LED, but I never read of anyone having a part number or of anyone who had replaced the LED.
It turns out that the LED is a miniscule SMD version on a very tiny PCB.
It honestly couldn't have been easier. True, I did need a magnifying glass, but that's only because my eyes are somewhat past their prime
Just three tiny torx screws and a plastic prybar (I think a guitar pick would also work) and the back case was off. Then I gently peeled up a bit of sticky copper that shields part of the board and the board pops right out.
I have learned my lesson: Don't use the LED Flashlight on the HIGH function, when the low beam is enough.
yeah everything you have to change, speaker and so forth are really easy on these, a plastic knife and 3 screws and you can access the things that break first, and they are cheap as hell to
I also replaced my flash recently. Was using the flash as a light when building a friend's new PC, but I sat it down with it on super-bright mode and forgot. About 20 minutes later, I picked the phone up and saw that it thought the light was on.
It may not have been the same eBay seller, but I got the same thing, for around 7 bucks, got the replacement light, "soft opening" tool to crack the case open, and the torx screw driver needed. I think they even sent me a tiny phillips screw driver, but was not needed.
Bookmarked, if I ever need it. Thanks so much!
My only problem is the void adhesive (can't recall the right word in english) on the screw...
I've noticed that the LED on the G2 (Or DZ if it makes a difference) is very bright, the brightest LED I've ever seen on a phone (On deathray mode, or high brightness mode on the torch app), is the replacement LED just as bright? Not that it really matters much but I'm just curious. Also how often did you use the LED and how long till it died?
Do you happen to know of somewhere that shows how to open the back case of the phone? I have some dust or something on my lens and can't figure it out.
Sent from my G2 running the random rom of the day.
JDogg1329 said:
I've noticed that the LED on the G2 (Or DZ if it makes a difference) is very bright, the brightest LED I've ever seen on a phone (On deathray mode, or high brightness mode on the torch app), is the replacement LED just as bright? Not that it really matters much but I'm just curious. Also how often did you use the LED and how long till it died?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
both me and my girlfriend have had g2s for a long time, I use tourch constantly, just not on death ray and she use her camera like none other. neither one of use has burnt out our led but its hard to estimate how much
specificaly its been used. I gather it varies but should take a long time. I also gather a replacement led will be just as bright as they are probably oem as who would make an aftermarket one
alarmdude9 said:
Do you happen to know of somewhere that shows how to open the back case of the phone? I have some dust or something on my lens and can't figure it out.
Sent from my G2 running the random rom of the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you need a t5 scredriver and a guitar pick (or similar) if you can't figure it out just look for a youtube video
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
Good to know, so I can use the high brightness mode without worrying too much
Well, sure... But that two weeks without a light was annoying... Stick with low unless it's an emergency
Hi i replaced the screen on my asus but now it wont power on. Orange light flashes twice when plugged in. Left plugged in overnight in case it was dead, still nothing. Just the two orange flashes. Any ideas?
Check cables was my issue
Sent from my SPH-P100 using xda app-developers app
nugzo said:
Hi i replaced the screen on my asus but now it wont power on. Orange light flashes twice when plugged in. Left plugged in overnight in case it was dead, still nothing. Just the two orange flashes. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Means the device is not charging. You either forgot to plug in the battery or turn on the service switch. Can you turn it on while plugged in?
graphdarnell said:
Means the device is not charging. You either forgot to plug in the battery or turn on the service switch. Can you turn it on while plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure i understand the service switch you're talking about. the battery is definitely plugged in.
nugzo said:
Not sure i understand the service switch you're talking about. the battery is definitely plugged in.
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Click to collapse
Look at the attached thumb. The area circled red is where the switch is. It's mounted on the other side, but if you look closely, you'll see "off" and "on" printed right below the board's edge. Use a toothpick to gently slide it to "off." Don't force it or you might break the black plastic. Then lift the shield off (I assume you're out of warranty, as removing the shield would void it otherwise), disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes, reconnect it, make sure it fits snugly, then turn the switch to "on" again. Then charge it. I deliberately avoid discussing other possibilities to keep it simple, assuming that the tab was working fine before the touchscreen broke.
graphdarnell said:
Look at the attached thumb. The area circled red is where the switch is. It's mounted on the other side, but if you look closely, you'll see "off" and "on" printed right below the board's edge. Use a toothpick to gently slide it to "off." Don't force it or you might break the black plastic. Then lift the shield off (I assume you're out of warranty, as removing the shield would void it otherwise), disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes, reconnect it, make sure it fits snugly, then turn the switch to "on" again. Then charge it. I deliberately avoid discussing other possibilities to keep it simple, assuming that the tab was working fine before the touchscreen broke.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow i feel stupid lol. It was the service switch, was off. Thanks a lot man!
Thanks for posting this info. I just replaced the digitizer on my tf300t, and it wouldn't boot. This fixed it! (Two orange blinks, then constant orange light on from power button light.)
graphdarnell! Thank a lot! It work corretly! But what is that swich? What he doin? Do i swich off?
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
Screen of Death
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
Entropy512 said:
Has anyone encountered the following issues with their SHIELD?
Mine was working just fine after updating to 4.3 and rooting with CWM. I performed multiple reboots in this configuration, played games, etc. - everything was fine.
I had a pretty busy weekend so didn't touch the SHIELD at all for a few days. When I got back:
When I opened it up, I saw the screen backlight turn on but nothing displayed on the screen. The SHIELD button was glowing green.
I long-pressed the SHIELD button to turn off the device. When I turn it back on, I get a white screen that is dark around the edges (mostly vignetting around the corners). The brightness of the screen here and degree of vignetting seem to change every time I try and turn on the device.
If I enter fastboot mode via the key combo, the same thing happens - white vignetted screen. The device DOES appear to enumerate as a fastboot device on my PC in this configuration.
At one point I figured it might be due to a low battery, so plugged it into the charger. 30 minutes later, when I opened the lid, I actually came up to a launcher screen with 65% battery.
However, after closing the lid and reopening it again - black screen again, with the "white vignette of death" coming back if I reboot.
Has anyone else seen similar behavior? Searching results in no one complaining about a white screen like this, at least not on this device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be just bad luck for me.....
nmerc001 said:
This just happened to me today. Did you find a fix for this problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
This is what has me worried about buying a shield, the ribbon cable, did you confirmed this was the problem?
DJNinja1625 said:
So ive already gotten two shields and they both got the same effect. my guess is the ribbon cable when you open and close the screen, is wearing off? because when i open my shield in a certain way, it works... when i open it at around 100 degrees or open correctly then tilt it forward, the screen tears and slowly shows the white screen. I do admit that i open and close the screen more than i should, but i do it carefully. Ill look over at the ifixit site to see how the cable is connected to the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am a tech by trade and bought one of ebay for 40 bucks cuz it would not power up so the guy claimed. After getting it I found the issue was actually the display was not coming on and once it did. Then went out in a few moments. Connect it to HDMI and the unit runs all day of you want to be cabled. ]
So I tore it down and found that the issue is the flex cable. The problem is that the flex cable is part of the LCD and you cannot just replace the cable. Also since the unit is so new there are no sources as of yet to by the LCD from.
So if you have this issue I suggest just holding out till a source of LCD's at hopefully a reasonable price become available.
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
nex86 said:
So it's soldered to the screen and not replacable right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct.. The flex cable is actually an integral part of the display and even has much of the driver circuitry placed right on it at the LCD. In the business we call it a flex circuit since it is a flexible circuit board and not just a cable.
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
nex86 said:
I pretty much know what you mean.
On my old Archos Gamepad I ripped the flex that connected the left side of the controler to the logic board by accident.
It was a pain in the ass to fix it by soldering seperate wires, I guess it's impossible to do this with the display connection in the Shield.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be possible if you used 32 gauge magnet wire. It is enamel coated so it won't short, but it to will break over time.
hi, flash factory image
Sent from my LT25i using XDA Free mobile app
dragxdk said:
hi, flash factory image
Sent from my LT25i using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
nex86 said:
fastboot tells you if you were sucessful or not.
just for relocking the bootloader you have to do some button combinations, you can look up some tutorial videos to see what you have to press.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Solarenemy68 said:
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, they used flex in the Nintendo DS and 3Ds as well, but they don't break that fast.
I find it still better if they have used recular cables like what they use for Laptops.
Solarenemy68 said:
Even still, it is not a software problem that causes this. I know because if I move my display to a certain angle it will start to work sometimes. A software issue would not cause this. I also have taken my apart since I am a tech and can actually see the traces in the flex cable that have broken..
Any device with a folding display is a bad idea and a failure waiting to happen. Flex cables have a limited number of flex cycles that is even usually published. So the idea of using them in a device that may get heavy use is just dumb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you are saying is the EXACT same thing that happened to my SHIELD. I can tell its a hardware problem because when I tilted my screen it would work, and sometimes it wouldn't. Now my SHIELD's display does not even show any signs of picture. HDMI still works, however. Like one of the previous posts said, there is not a screen available for purchase, so my next step is NVIDIA customer support. Maybe if they would sell these screens, I wouldn't even have to have a warranty claim. sigh.
White screen of death?
yes mine too same as
i tried connecting my via HDMI from power cable to large HDMI to plug it works fine on my galaxy tab
thought id be clever try it on nvidia shield never worked sould of bought mini HDMI so now White screen of death
i cant get into recovery or anything i had this on charge for 12 hrs yesterday still no green button on charge only orange .. i too cant find anything on internet to help with this White screen of death situation
Solarenemy68 said:
How are you supposed to flash a factory image when the screen won't let you see what you are doing? When you are in the bootloader screen the HDMI drivers are not loaded yet so not even hooking it to an external monitor will work. You might want to fully read and understand the problem next time before offering advice.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. I'm having a similar issue. My wife's SHIELD has an unresponsive touch screen. So I tried to flash the factory image (It was never rooted to begin with) and I got the white screen issue when in the bootloader screen. I have to keep restarting it to get the screen to show up as normal when the device boots to the home screen. But the bootloader screen is still blank and white. I was able to watch a video and mimick the steps to flash the factory image but that did not fix the issue. It's definitely a hardware issue. I live in Cincinnati OH, anywhere I can go to have this fixed? I have a portable myself and i know this is going to happen to mine soon.
So, I was trying to replace my Nexus 5s camera and I disassembled the main motherboard. Replaced my camera and everything but after I reassembled the phone, I found out that there's no display. The LEDs work fine, because I see them light up and I see that the screen is black but it's a bright black and the screen is on. So after tampering with it, I found that the little USB charger port wire board wire thst connects just above the battery (idk how to describe it, its the orange strip that locks the battery in place) had a direct correlation with the display. If I unplugged it, the screen would go dark and off. If I replugged it, it would be on again. After doing this a few times, I actually got my phone's display to show for a little while before it went away to black again. So will buying a new orange strip part work or would I have to go to the bottom where the little screen digitizer is? I'm sorry if the problem is unclear because I really don't know how to say it or explain any better. Please help.
Replacing that strip is actually not easy.
With the device open, try to apply a little bit of force on the plug of the orange strip, there are mentions of the contacts stop working after upluging/pluging back.
You probably could buy a front frame (glass, touch, lcd and chassis) from ali cheap.