Related
I got one of these yesterday:
http://www.amazon.com/Google-Nexus-One-Retractable-Charger/dp/B002W52DVK/
I was playing some audio through the aux jack connected to my car's speakers. As soon as I plugged in the charger, the audio was distorted. It sounded very electronic/mechanical; hard to explain. As soon as I unplugged, the audio went back to normal.
Is this how all car chargers operate? Or is this one defective?
Does anyone know of a similarly priced car charger that doesn't have this issue?
your car audio system and charger are sharing ground. I don't recall the exact solution...so search forum... solution is on the forum.
EDIT: I just remembered... change the ground on your car stereo.... just attach it to some other metal piece.
arkavat said:
change the ground on your car stereo.... just attach it to some other metal piece.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, attach what?
Not too knowledgeable about car stuff.
Paul22000 said:
Sorry, attach what?
Not too knowledgeable about car stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your car audio system should have bunch of wires in the back. Look in the user manual, one of them will be "ground wire". It is either attached to the "ground" wire coming from your car or just attached to nearest metal piece. usually a screw etc... in the vicinity of the audio system. Just remove the wire and attach it to some other metal.
If you don't want to mess with your car audio, do the same thing to charger outlet. try to locate the wires coming into the charger outlet. One of them is ground. change it's location.
If you are not too comfortable with this, just as your car mechanic to do it. it is fairly easy if you already know which wire is what... so it should be an easy task for him.
So all car chargers with the N1 will behave this way?
Paul22000 said:
So all car chargers with the N1 will behave this way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lord I hope not, I was in the market for a good car charger too..
ChillRays said:
Lord I hope not, I was in the market for a good car charger too..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the problem is not with N1 but rather with the electrical arrangement in a particular car. I do not have this problem,but, unfortunately for paul, all chargers will cause this interference.
Isolate the Ground!!! It's not rocket science, and it sure as hell ain't the n1....
So there's definitely 0% chance that it's the charger and getting a different one wouldn't make a difference?
I tried just plugging in the power, without any audio playing, and the speakers play a lot of metallic interference garbage. Unplug/plug in, plays weird sounds every time.
Paul22000 said:
So there's definitely 0% chance that it's the charger and getting a different one wouldn't make a difference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this to know for sure:
1) don't connect charger, and play music through car speakers
2) use charger and play music through battery powered speakers
Both should turn out ok.
For information about ground loops see this pdf:
www.ebtechaudio.com/findloop.pdf
I tried just plugging in the power, without any audio playing, and the speakers play a lot of metallic interference garbage. Unplug/plug in, plays weird sounds every time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A ground loop is simply an antenna formed by the cable from ground, to your phone (charger), to your radio, and back to ground. The noise you're hearing when you don't play music is random noise from any and all radio waves that might pass through this giant loop antenna.
Think of all the stuff that emits RF noise: ignition/sparks, power supplies, phones, BT, wifi, electrical mains and poor connections. All these faint signals are picked up by your giant ground loop and amplified by your radio.
There are also some audio ground loop isolators, but I don't know how well they work.
www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214
I know this thread is old and dead, but I just wanted to thank arkavat and xdZKu7 for their answers. I've had interference since I got my car and plugged my DHD into the aux in, and it's been driving me mad for ages. The sound is crystal clear until I plug the charger in and then I get some nasty alternator whining. I searched and found this thread last night, today I went with arkavat's answer and I found the cigarette lighter's ground wire and earthed it nearer by, now the alternator noise is gone almost entirely. I'm going to look into what I can do to reduce ground loop antenna noise also, although it's bearable for now. Thanks guys.
I bought the "official" OEM HTC micro USB CC C200 at amazon.
And it works fine. No problems with audio and navigation so far.
If you're like me, you use your Fascinate as an audio source for your car stereo. I have done a LOT of research into the whine sound and know it is from the alternator and I have seen things to go inline with the audio, but this degrades sound, which I definitely did not want. So, without further delay, here is the link:
http://n4maa.us/alternator.htm
It is from a HAM radio guy and this puts an inductor (which causes frequencies only below a certain point to pass through) and a capacitor (which smooths out the electrical current in this case - many that have built speakers before know that this is a high pass filter as well - which means that in this "kit" it takes frequencies above a certain point and they go to ground if my electrical schematic reading is correct (If I'm wrong, lemme know!)).
To sum it up - this gets rid of the whine you get when trying to charge or cradle your phone in your car while it is hooked to the aux in of your stereo.
You'll have to find a way to put this inline with the electrical supply to your device (like get an extension cord for a cigarette lighter plug with male on one end, female on the other and splice this in the middle. NOTE: the red wire attaches to the wire that feeds the tip of the cigarette adapter. the clips or outside of it is the ground, which is the line the black wire goes to. That said, if you have issues, just reply to this thread.
when I get a little extra time I'm gonna give this a try, that whining drives me absolutely crazy.
mlarma said:
If you're like me, you use your Fascinate as an audio source for your car stereo. I have done a LOT of research into the whine sound and know it is from the alternator and I have seen things to go inline with the audio, but this degrades sound, which I definitely did not want. So, without further delay, here is the link:
http://n4maa.us/alternator.htm
It is from a HAM radio guy and this puts an inductor (which causes frequencies only below a certain point to pass through) and a capacitor (which smooths out the electrical current in this case - many that have built speakers before know that this is a high pass filter as well - which means that in this "kit" it takes frequencies above a certain point and they go to ground if my electrical schematic reading is correct (If I'm wrong, lemme know!)).
To sum it up - this gets rid of the whine you get when trying to charge or cradle your phone in your car while it is hooked to the aux in of your stereo.
You'll have to find a way to put this inline with the electrical supply to your device (like get an extension cord for a cigarette lighter plug with male on one end, female on the other and splice this in the middle. NOTE: the red wire attaches to the wire that feeds the tip of the cigarette adapter. the clips or outside of it is the ground, which is the line the black wire goes to. That said, if you have issues, just reply to this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wowsers! That's a BIG filter - probably overkill for your phone or other music player. Not that it won't work, but you could probably experiment with smaller (cheaper, stealthier) components and still get rid of the wine. Might be interesting to build one in an Altoids box or something, maybe ...
For reference, my 100-watt ham radio draws slightly less than 20A when transmitting at full power.
I heard the whine sound comes from the wires current (the Power and RCA cables) running side by side ...I got rid of it just by running power on left side of car (cuz my batt is located in front left) to the amp then RCA on right side ...got rid of it and haven't heard it since...
2 Kicker CVRs 12'
Monoblock 750.1 Kicker amp
Custom sealed box tuned
Sony deck
Yellow Cap batt
5 Ferad Massive cap
Sent from my GB MIUI Fascinate
Hey guys,
I bought a One X recently, and I am noticing some static/hiss/noise coming from the headphones.
I tried connecting my One X to bigger speakers, and the noise is more noticeable this way. This is an odd issue, because none of my other phones behave this way.
The funny thing is, if you play music or notification noises play when the phone is connected to speakers, the noise goes away. But after one second, when the DAC shuts off, the noise comes back again.
My friend's One X has this problem as well, so I don't think I just have a lemon here.
Other forums seem to be talking about this issue as well
http://www.htconeforum.com/forum/htc-one-x-help/300-htc-one-x-sound-issues-headphones.html
http://www.htconeforum.com/forum/htc-one-x-help/327-sound-issue.html
I found one review that mentions this issue. They talk about it in the Beats Audio section, and there's a video with the noise.
http://www.tekgadg.com/home/2012/6/15/htc-one-x-rogers-review.html
I remember using a really cheap chinese knockoff mp3 player about 8 years ago, and the One X seems to have the same problem as that mp3 player. Could it be that the One X has a cheap DAC in it that causes this noise?
Anyone else experience this problem?
The first link is about the international version, the lte one x is technically the One XL, and this is the first time hearing about this. Mine doesn't have a problem and I listen to music all the time.
Just and idea possibly cheap headphones?
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
My music is crystal clear, probably one of the best quality sound outputs I've heard from a phone actually.
Mine has this problem, but I only notice when I hook it up to my car speakers (with an aux cable) and not with headphones (Bose). It's a lot more pronounced when the phone is plugged into usb as well. Once sound plays though, the hissing stops completely. It's only when there is no output that the hiss is present.
Edit: Could it possibly be interference from the cellular radio? Maybe once the DAC kicks in it filters out the interference?
Edit 2: Just read the 3rd link and yeah, my speculation seems to have some validity
"Adding insult to injury, HTC One X features a badly shielded headset jack that makes noise whenever it is hooked up to sensitive speakers. We compared it to high-end and low-end phones, and none of them made the annoying static noise that the One X makes. This isn't a serious problem for people who only listen to music through headphones, but you may want to stay away from the One X if you are thinking about playing music through it with big speakers."
I had the same problem. If you are rooted, disable beats audio notify with titanium backup. I did this and use power amp with custom eq settings and do not notice any hiss whatsoever.
Sent from my HTC One XL using XDA
Same problem here. WAY worse when plugged in and in my car. On regular headphones no problem. In my car it's huge. To me it reeked of a poor ground somewhere, to the point that I thought my unit was defective. If it were a shielding problem I would think it would be an issue all of the time, not just when the thing is "inactive" (ie not driving the jack). I've "disabled" beats to the extent that I can without rooting, and it had no noticeable difference.
Glad to hear it's not just me.
I notice the problem when I use both the microUSB charger and headphone jacket. Disconnect the charger cable usually solves my problem. Now, I switched to use BT car adapter instead of aux cable and I can use car charger without noise.
The problem is called BEATS AUDIO!
scroll to the bottom
http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_x-review-747p5.php
designgears said:
The problem is called BEATS AUDIO!
scroll to the bottom
http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_x-review-747p5.php
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still get the hiss despite disabling Beats (as in just turning it off in the notification shade), although it is definitely not as bad as having Beats turned on. I'll freeze HTCBeatsNotify and see if it helps on the way to work tomorrow morning.
stnguyen09 said:
I still get the hiss despite disabling Beats (as in just turning it off in the notification shade), although it is definitely not as bad as having Beats turned on. I'll freeze HTCBeatsNotify and see if it helps on the way to work tomorrow morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly beats audio is integrated beyond what you can turn off in settings.
so, the only solution is to root the phone and completely kill Beats Audio?
I guess it's not a hardware problem then... Man, that sucks. Has this issue been brought to light by some big sites yet? We need to do something so HTC learns from this mistake.
By the way, here's the update I promised...
Like I said before, I disabled beats from the notification pulldown but the hiss was still there, although slightly less annoying. I froze HTCBeatsNotify (or whatever the actual name is) using TiBu so Beats doesn't even show up when I plug it in. Unfortunately, the hiss is still there at the same level it was at when I just disabled Beats from the notification pulldown.
Is Beats actually integrated into the hardware? Is the "poorly shielded headphone jack" mentioned in one of the OP's links still a valid assumption? Can someone running CM9/AOKP chime in on whether they get the hiss?
Edit: Before I head home today I'll go into Airplane mode to try to rule out the headset jack shielding.
Annnnd of course my experiment failed...hiss is still there
If the headphone jack is indeed poorly shielded, couldn't it pick up interference from anything? Not just the internal radios?
This means we'll have to go into some radio-free environment in order to determine whether it's the headphone jack or Beats Audio that causes this annoying hiss.
In either case, I'm disappointed in HTC.
ai4281 said:
If the headphone jack is indeed poorly shielded, couldn't it pick up interference from anything? Not just the internal radios?
This means we'll have to go into some radio-free environment in order to determine whether it's the headphone jack or Beats Audio that causes this annoying hiss.
In either case, I'm disappointed in HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I mean, the internal radio would be the strongest signal in the immediate area that would cause interference. Just look at old, poorly shielded computer speakers, they had issues only when a phone would go off within maybe a yard of them. I was in a parking garage at the time I tested and I'm not sure if there was anything else around that would be powerful enough to cause the interference.
Also something I noticed which may lend credence to the DAC being the source of the issue...Just plugging my phone into usb and having the headphone jack attached does not produce as much interference as when I'm streaming from Google Music and it gets caught buffering. As in, when the DAC would still be active but no audio is output. The hiss during that situation is quite a bit worse than just having the phone sit there not doing anything.
Since Beats is just a glorified equalizer, it could be that Beats just happens to be boosting the sound frequencies of the hiss and making it sound louder, and not the actual source of the hiss itself. So maybe it is a hardware issue.
Again, I can't imagine ti being "poor shielding" because that would not immediately go away once you started playing music. Think about typical cell phone interference from a radio. You're playing music, and you hear that "bvvvvrerrerrr" sound.
In the case of the HTC, as soon as you start playing music, the hum goes away IMMEDIATELY and completely as far as I can tell. If shielding were the problem it wouldn't it still be distorted regardless of whether the jack was actively playing anything or not?
Seems more to me that the DAC is leaving some signals floating, leaving them susceptible to noise, when it's not active, when it should be pulling them to a known state (probably ground)
Not from DAC either. If you plug in a headphone, you will not hear these noises. It seems only occur when you plug into AUX import of car or amps.
So, it is a hardware design problem that causes dirty interference escaped into audio output. When you plug in a normal headphone, it has very low impendence and the noise will not get amplifed at all. If you plug it into an AUX import, it will have a much higher impendence and hence the noise get carrier over and amplified.
foxbat121 said:
Not from DAC either. If you plug in a headphone, you will not hear these noises. It seems only occur when you plug into AUX import of car or amps.
So, it is a hardware design problem that causes dirty interference escaped into audio output. When you plug in a normal headphone, it has very low impendence and the noise will not get amplifed at all. If you plug it into an AUX import, it will have a much higher impendence and hence the noise get carrier over and amplified.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your explanation makes perfect sense. This seems to be the issue.
foxbat121 said:
Not from DAC either. If you plug in a headphone, you will not hear these noises. It seems only occur when you plug into AUX import of car or amps.
So, it is a hardware design problem that causes dirty interference escaped into audio output. When you plug in a normal headphone, it has very low impendence and the noise will not get amplifed at all. If you plug it into an AUX import, it will have a much higher impendence and hence the noise get carrier over and amplified.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ai4281 said:
Your explanation makes perfect sense. This seems to be the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think we have a winner!
Hi all,
I have purchased a PX5 unit made for my 2008 Mazda 6. Unfortunately, it suffers from an issue with the audio quality. Whenever the audio level is above 0, a static/interference noise can be heard, and the pitch of this sound changes when driving, similar to alternator whine.
This is relatively loud, and can be heard even when moving or when sound is at low volume. If required, I could create a recording of the noise. I have updated the MCU to the latest available version to no avail.
I am relatively confident at soldering and am willing/able to take the HU apart to make modifications if anyone has any recomendations as to what I can do? I have seen various hardware mods floating around, but nothing that conclusively seems to say it will help with my issue.
There is also a large amount of static/interference when using Bluetooth for calls, but mainly to the party not connected to the car (IE the person calling in can hear the noise). Unsure if this is related, but the noise appears to be a similar pattern and pitch.
This issue is present both with the car running and off, and also was present on a bench power supply during testing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Should be an easy fix. https://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rg...car/noise_suppressors_installation_guide.html
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the post, but unfortunately the noise is present even when connected to a bench supply, with no additional interference from the car present. There is no amplifier in this scenario, so I am fairly confident the issue comes from the HU itself. I'm not sure if there may be something I can re-route or shield inside the unit to minimise it? I don't mind if I can't eliminate it entirely, but I would. Like to minimise the issue.
Thanks!
I found that I was able to remove one aspect of the noise by turning off the colour cycling of the front LEDs. This was causing a kind of pulsating low pitch siren type noise in the audio.
It appears that having the front LEDs on anything other than full power or completely off causes the noise to varying degrees.
I still have a fair amount of cracking/static type noises, but I was able to somewhat lower the volume and improve the quality by attaching RCA cables directly to the outputs of the BD37033 chip. I'm not entirely sure what occurs after this chip in terms of sound processing, as in was difficult to trace out on the PCB. Interestingly, this modification means that the static is produced even when the unit is booting or on mute, which didn't occur before. I found this odd, as the mute functionality (And all other functionality as far as I was able to tell) is retained.
I assume the signal goes back to the MCU before going out to the factory RCA outlets and amp.
If anyone knows more, I would lose to hear it!
I have the same issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTNJVWFpBlw&feature=youtu.be
There is a static / hissing sound when the volume is on, changing volume doesn't affect it.
I might to try to upgrade the amp chip to Pioneer PA2030A from TDA7851 to see if it will fix it...
Hi.
I have the same issue with my radio in Mazda CX-9 with Bose.
Version of the radio:
PX5 Malaysk 6.0.1 MXC89L 20170901.180527 MCU VERSION MTCD_KLD_V_2.57_1 - now I have the newest version, and the problem is still the same.
I have a lot of noise when searching for something on the radio, or connecting something under USB (at the rear panel - when I'm connecting in the front - it is OK), while listening to music quietly.
What I've done so far:
1. Upgraded to the latest version of Malaysk with of course wipe all data - nothing changed.
2. Installed: anti-interference voltage filter, it works because I can not hear feedback from the car's electrical system, the alternator is not audible anymore.
3. I wrapped the cables on the back with aluminum foil plus tape insulation - nothing changed, maybe a little less noise from the radio, but still I hear all the time.
4. I connected back to the original radio - no noise - absolute silence from the speakers
The most annoying is the increasing noise of the car during driving, I have to manually adjust the volume, which does not change anyway.
Is "the cheap" radio from China, I dont know what to do.
I think that the problem is that the radio does not work well with the Bose amplifier.
I had Mazda CX-9 without Bose, and installed cheap amp with cheap radio from China - and everything worked perfect, no noises at all ! Because the amplifier was cutting out this noise with no problem.
Here the Bose amp have huge problems with that noise, I don't know why.
This noise is nothing but the noise of data transfer over the radio, which I hear all the time once more quietly and louder, as I connect, for example, a car camera to the rear USB, this noise is unbearable.
The best solution, IMHO is to remove the Bose amplifier from the car and connect the radio to another A / B class amplifier, which is much better at reducing these disturbances.
But it is a lot of work to make the whole installation work perfectly.
Me too...
I have also got this issue with my MTCD GS unit. My car has Bose also. I have tried earthing various point/things with the head unit hanging out of the dash but no change. I have also tried disabling the WiFi & Bluetooth and again no change.
I noticed the other day when I put my headlights on and the backlights on the unit came on the noise increased slightly so there might be something in the LED thing.
Andy
Exactly same thing for me too. Cheap units..
Hi.
I'll try with:
Car Stereo Audio Wire to 4 Channel RCA High to Low Audio Level Converter Adaptor
And let you know if it is OK.
I wonder, after all, the Chinese radio has a low output to the amplifier, just through the RCA plug, it can try this connection yet.
Connect to the Bose amplifier via the RCA plugs
PRODUCT FEATURES:
4 Channel Hi/Lo Audio level converter
Converts speaker level audio to line level (RCA) output
Adjustable output level to allow input to suit various amplifiers
Also eliminates signal noise
Maximum input from speaker level: 100 Watts
The noise is even related to the touch screen on my side, touching the screen changes the hiss
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
kaise123 said:
Removing the Bose amp and connecting a new amp with just RCA cables has improved the issue, but not eliminated it. My next step is to remove the amplifier chip entirely and see if that makes a difference (As I am only using the low level outputs I do not need the amp chip)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Xorit said:
Have you tried connecting via normale speaker lines, using a HLA? -> I also have a factory amp and using the RCAs got me ground issues - not present with the normal lines, so I ordered a HLA.
You can lower the output to max -15db in factory settings which I use in the meantime..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
dranet said:
Hi, thanks for the answer.
I reduced the decibels to -9dB and noticed that it is much better, but of course the noises are only less audible.
I'm waiting for High quality audio converter to RCA cables, and let you know and let if I have eliminated the noise completely.
DD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should recieve my HLA today and will report back aswell. I have given up on the RCA jacks from the HU though.
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
kaise123 said:
I found that the RCA jacks were considerably better than the speaker level outputs as far as both noise and quality go. I was already using the speker level outputs when I initially noticed the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Guys, I was able to install the HLA today and beside I cant bring it to clip the sound has improved regarding base.
Turned the gain little up and am now satisfied with the result.
I had a hissing noise from the start even with oem radio and this is gone aswell.
All that using the speaker lines towards oem amp.
Octane70 said:
I agree. I was able to tune the the "static noise" out of my system using a 3-way electronic crossover/ line driver buy turning down its gain till the noise went away. Lost a bit of volume, but just had to turn the head unit volume up a bit more to make up for it. Not much you can do with speaker level inputs except not to use them and use external amplifiers for all your speakers.
I believe the cause of the noise is an internal isolation problem, not to sure if any isolation can be added to the inside of the unit, When the wifi was on i was getting some bad feedback as well, but i was able to tune that out as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also believe this is related to the inside of the unit having poor power delivery and bad isolation. Unfortunately the audio is all routed on the main PCB itself so it is not easy to isolate it. I did improve things considerably by soldering directly to the output from the BD37534FV controller and then using this as my RCA output. I did try some further digging but wasn't able to trace the source of the noise back any further.
Next I am going to try adding a capacitor to the power supply, removing the built in TDAXXX amp chip and seeing if I can improve the ground connection on the unit.
Hi.
Finally, I achieved what I wanted more or less, I reduced the number of noises to a minimum, using RCA converters from high to low voltage, adjustable at the expense of the output volume, but I made up for it with the Viper4android module, making listening to music comparable to sitting in a concert hall. Cool effects can be obtained with this module.
That's enough for me, of course, the noise is still present, but it's not as bothersome as before. I do not have the effect anymore that while driving from 100 km / h up, the noise increases and the volume stays constant.
Still, unfortunately, I can not connect anything to the rear USB, because the speakers start to tweet data transmission, similar to the transmission of the modem only faster, I have a USB webcam connected to the front of the radio, unfortunately it is annoying but at least there is no noise.
Of course, to reduce the number of noises in the car completely, I would have to exchange Chinese cheap radio, for which I paid some 300USD for some better, eg from Xtrons radio, they are supposedly better done, but I would have to play with 2DIN frames and it will not be anymore perfectly fit in place of the old radio.
Thanks
DD
This is what I use:
ESX High-To-Low Level Converter ISC4
or
HIFONICS HCV4
Hello everyone
I tried to use the RCA Line-Level audio outputs of my Dasaita MTCD-PX5 unit to connect an external amplifier, but discovered that there's no signal coming out of them.
Do I need to enable them somewhere on the SW?
Thanks in advance
Max
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
SoakedCardinal said:
Hi Max,
I am having the same issue, with Seicane PX30. I have temporarily spliced into the speaker wires since my amp can take high voltage input, however I have static/ clipping noise with high volume.
Please let me know if you figure this out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest.
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
I have purchased 2014 2015 2016 Subaru WRX Forester 9 inch Android 10.0 Head Unit.
There is no signal coming from the following RCA jacks:
• SUBWOOFER
• FL OUT
• FR OUT
• RL OUT
• RR OUT
They all register 0 volts using 40hz 0db test tone ¾ volume from bluetooth or auxiliary input.
Connecting AUX IN L/R to FL/FR OUT makes the cars 3.5mm aux jack work but there is still no output from the RCA jacks.
My unit has the DSP Sound System. I have seated the connector properly. All other functions are working normally.
How can I make it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
SoakedCardinal said:
currently in communication with support, sent them this:
they completely misunderstood my issue first go round . . will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maxiauer said:
On my side, I never found a solution. Played around with several settings, but nothing...
Could this be a ROM issue?
Let me know if they ever reply back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so . . they basically tried to bribe me $50 to stop bothering them.
I think I might be able to fix the crackliing by using my amp to sum the L + R speaker outputs instead of my homade y splitter from the stock speaker cables at the headunit . .
Sorry for the resurrection, but I just fixed this issue on my PX5 for anyone else running into this problem. TL;DR is that the harness does not have the RCA for Rear speaker outputs wired in but the PX5 DOES have the pins for it. The solution is to wire them into the harness.
SOLVED: Rear RCA Outputs for MTCE PX5
Edit: TL;DR The wiring harness does not have Rear RCA outputs (only front and subwoofer). I had to splice in the RCA for the rear because there are pins outputting signal. (See solution below for details) I'm running Hal9K Mod with Android 10...
forum.xda-developers.com
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it back under warranty.
marchnz said:
Send it back under warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that is another week of waiting. I am in connection with the supplier, he asks the manufacturer about the problem. The way is good, since when I plug Front left to the Front left of the amplifier, I head very very weak sound from the front left speakers. But the outcoming signal is unmeasurable. In addition, in the Factory menu there is an option "Power Amplifier Settings", which is gray. Can't be reached..
Maybe somehow it is disabled in the menu, but I could not find in 3 hrs where.
kukoladam said:
Hey guys!
I've just bought a PX5 Android head unit to Skoda Octavia 3, instead of MIB1 Bolero. Everything works fine, it's fast, but I have 2x2ch amps in car.
RCAs don't give any signal at all..... Nor rear or front, neither sub RCA-s. Wiring is perfect.
In Factory menu i could find a Power Amplifier Settings menu, but it's gray, can't be opened.
In the scroll down menu, no possibility to activate AMP.
Remote switches both amps, connecting a phone via 3,5mm jack to amplifiers, it works fine. When I connect back to the head unit, it stops working. I can only hear it working like 5% of the sound it should...
We measured if there is rupture with multimeter, we measured 0... no beep. Moreover we tried to measure the outcoming signal, but nothing. it's 0,00. On every RCA. Anyone any tips?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Bob_Sanders said:
As @marchnz .... send it back under warranty.
Every head unit I have ever had, there is no turn-on for the RCA's because they are already on. That includes my old px5 and new px6.... and I have been using RCA outs only for probably the last 40 years
What you could do is check the pins directly on the head unit plug to see if there is anything there. When you probe it with the multimeter try using a ground inside the machine instead of the ground on the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
If the amp's big enough you'll see smoke and fire
At the very least use a common grounding point for all pieces of equipment. Use heavy gauge wire and keep the wire length as short as possible.
*A high frequency typically 40hz or higher feedback loop when fed into and/or through a power amp will result in a huge wattage output at that frequency. It will cause the speaker bypass to shunt all of it through your tweeters and effectively short out the power amp
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
blackhawk said:
Optical toslink between audio equipment is highly preferred.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
blackhawk said:
Even with a common grounding point for -all- connected equipment the chance of an unsnubbed high frequency feedback loop is real.
If so it will likely blow all your twitters and possibly the power amp in seconds*.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you misunderstand. I'm asking OP to look for a common ground FOR TESTING with his multimeter. If all the rca's are not working then there is a chance that something common (like the ground on the rca jacks) is broken.
objecttothis said:
You probably know much more about this than I do, but a few things don't make sense to me. You said high frequency feedback loop, but then referenced 40hz. Did you mean 40khz? 40hz is a pretty low frequency and I would think would be cut out by both integrated HPFs and amp level HPFs. I am very familiar with toslink as I use them between my PC and home audio amplifier, but I've never heard of them used between a head unit and amp. Every head unit and amp I've ever owned have used RCA outputs. I'm not saying the risk isn't there but why would both head unit and amp manufacturers not use them if RCA is so dangerous? It really is an honest question, so please don't take offense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RCA's are mostly used on automotive head units. They have been around for decades. toslink is the new kid on the block and there are a lot of problems with it... frequency issues, sample matching issues, select few apps to use toslink with... yadda yadda. Personally speaking, I wouldn't use toslink instead of rca in a million years. Now it does have the advantage of less noise pickup on long runs of cable, but manucacturers like pioneer, alpine, kenwood... etc have combatted the noise issues with high voltage output from the rca's (pioneers are now 4 volts peak to peak on the rca's while android is still something like 1.4 volt PtoP). Then on the other hand with toslink you need HIGH QUALITY dac's to avoid sample and frequncy issues... and these android head units are NOT what I would describe as anywhere NEAR "high end"+
toslink.... not me thank you... not at this low price level anyway.
As for blowing tweets with stray "40hz" signals.... hasn't happened to me in 40 years of using rca's
Bob_Sanders said:
Well... toslink is preferred in high end equipment (bandwidth suffers in the cheap stuff).... and I would not describe these head units as "high end"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
blackhawk said:
Just a friendly old school warning so peeps never learn what driver coils smell like...
Cheap stuff will likely have less design fedback safeguards than high end equipment.
Regardless of the amp's frequency response the fed back will be on the high end. 10khz would still behave like 60khz as far as the crossover is concerned.
Regardless its best to wire/ground it proper for best performance and minimal voltage drops... wire is cheap.
I have a friend that saw this happen on a high end system. All they heard was a static like noise and in less than a second the tweeters were smoking. A couple hundred down the drain. It can get real expensive fast and by the time you realize it's happening, it's already done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
Bob_Sanders said:
You can blow a simple ic chip with static so we shouldn't use them? Freak things happen. That's life.
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Click to collapse
No that's ignorance and ineptitude.
I handled thousands of IC's and flat packs without damaging them by heat or ESD.
On a high end system with 7 mains blowing them out alone would be over $2G in replacement parts.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
objecttothis said:
Yeah, I don't think anyone sees these as high end in the audio production department. I think they have become somewhat popular because a lot of the main players in audio head units have been a little slow in the freedoms that Android provides in terms of apps, navigation, etc. They are too busy pushing their proprietary interface crap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... as far as I know the higher end units are still going RCA..... and if there is ever a change I suspect toslink will be passed over in favor of the MUCH BETTER hdmi standard anyway.