OK here is how to fix this problem so your TV out works 100%. I bought this cable from here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=290572188884
parts required, A nice sharp knife, a lighter , some good strong black insulation tape;
When the cable arrives it is wired up wrong so here is what you do:
1: unpack cable
2: cut all three plugs cleanly using the sharp knife at least 6 inches from the base of each plug.
3 now doing this one at a time using the lighter quickly heat each end of the cables you cut,when it start to bubble stop heating it and pull it with you fingers the BLACK plastic should easily pull away leaving the braid and a small colored wire , you must do this as the wires cut very easily and if you use a knife your cable will end up getting shorter and shorter you should end up with 3 plugs with each plug showing the braid and a colour wire corresponding to the colour of each plug!
4. repeat this process with each of the small colored wires, only heat the ends as the cable will shrink and you do not want to strip it back so far that it shorts with the braids, repeat this process until all are ready
5 twist all the wires individual with fingers and thumbs so they form nice thick wires ready to join making sure to KEEP EACH WIRE SEPARATE FROM THE BRAID!
6: NOW COMES THE IMPORTANT BIT
7:TAKING THE YELLOW PLUG TAKE THE SMALL YELLOW WIRE AND GET THE RED WIRE ON THE JACK PLUG SIDE AND CONNECT IT TO THE SMALL YELLOW WIRE AND TWIST THEM TOGETHER ...YES YELLOW PLUG YELLOW WIRE TO JACK PLUG RED WIRE.... THEN WRAP TAPE AROUND THEM TAKING CARE NOT TO LET THE BRAID MAKE CONTACT THEN CONNECT THE BRAIDS TOGETHER ON THE SAME WIRES THEN TAPE AROUND THEM TIGHTLY AND THAT'S THEM DONE ! YELLOW TO RED.. BRAID TO BRAID.
8:NEXT TAKE RED PLUG RED WIRE AND CONNECT TO YELLOW JACK PLUG WIRE TWIST TOGETHER AND TAPE OVER BUT DO NOT CONNECT THE BRAIDS.... WITH THE 2 BRAIDS THAT ARE LEFT CUT THEM AND THROW THEM AWAY AND TAPE OVER AGAIN MAKING SURE THE BRAIDS DON'T TOUCH OR IT WILL CAUSE A SHORT AND YOU WONT GET A PICTURE!
8:NOW TAKE THE WHITE PLUG AND CONNECT TO THE WHITE WIRE ON THE JACK PLUG TWISTING AGAIN AND TAPE OVER, THEN WITH THE TWO BRAIDS LEFT CUT AND THROW THEM AWAY THEN TAPE OVER MAKING SURE THE BRAIDS DON'T TOUGH.
10:GET ALL THREE COMPLETED WIRES GET MORE TAPE AND WRAP AROUND ALL 3 TO LEAVE NICE CLEAN FINISH AND THAT'S IT!
sorry for the caps but by the time i realised it was all typed out and I'm not typing it out again. the reason you must do it that way is the earths are all arse about face and joining them creates a short when connected to the tv which is why the picture is scrambled and audio buzzes and hums.this method has been confirmed by myself and tested as working with full stereo audio with the plugs being their right colours..RED RIGHT AUDIO, WHITE LEFT AUDIO, AND YELLOW VIDEO OUT.. enjoy
good
This listing () has been removed, or this item is not available on ebay ?
The original link is cut of, this probably is the correct link.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290572188.../sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=290572188884&_rdc=1
Instead of going through all this effort, could you not just use the red ended lead for the video? No cutting required, just plug the red end into the yellow port.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xda premium
This is really great..finally a solution
PaulN543 said:
Instead of going through all this effort, could you not just use the red ended lead for the video? No cutting required, just plug the red end into the yellow port.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd say, give it a shot, but, if he was me I'd tried that one already.
Then again, if your solution works it should be handy to tape the red jack plug yellow and the yellow one red. To avoid confusion.
Related
Hello
i have a problem with my polaris usb:
When i use a simple usb cable, i can connect to the laptop and charge as normal and remove it without away problem
But when a use and remove the headphone cable, the middle plastic of the mini-usb port get off
Lucky if i put again the plastic in is place, i can still connect and charge my PDA.
'
Is there anyway to make sure that the plastic dont get off again? Being stuck?
Sorry for my english
Best regard
anyone?????????????
Glue it
I had the same problem after poking the wrong hole when resetting in the dark.
I glued the plastic insulator in place with "SuperGlue" for plastics and it has been sitting there for a year now.
Otherwise you have to replace the USB connector which will be expensive, I think.
Be sure that you identify the correct position with help of a magnifying glass.
There are electrical conductors also in middle if I remember right.
Good Luck
A.
If you're like me, you use your Fascinate as an audio source for your car stereo. I have done a LOT of research into the whine sound and know it is from the alternator and I have seen things to go inline with the audio, but this degrades sound, which I definitely did not want. So, without further delay, here is the link:
http://n4maa.us/alternator.htm
It is from a HAM radio guy and this puts an inductor (which causes frequencies only below a certain point to pass through) and a capacitor (which smooths out the electrical current in this case - many that have built speakers before know that this is a high pass filter as well - which means that in this "kit" it takes frequencies above a certain point and they go to ground if my electrical schematic reading is correct (If I'm wrong, lemme know!)).
To sum it up - this gets rid of the whine you get when trying to charge or cradle your phone in your car while it is hooked to the aux in of your stereo.
You'll have to find a way to put this inline with the electrical supply to your device (like get an extension cord for a cigarette lighter plug with male on one end, female on the other and splice this in the middle. NOTE: the red wire attaches to the wire that feeds the tip of the cigarette adapter. the clips or outside of it is the ground, which is the line the black wire goes to. That said, if you have issues, just reply to this thread.
when I get a little extra time I'm gonna give this a try, that whining drives me absolutely crazy.
mlarma said:
If you're like me, you use your Fascinate as an audio source for your car stereo. I have done a LOT of research into the whine sound and know it is from the alternator and I have seen things to go inline with the audio, but this degrades sound, which I definitely did not want. So, without further delay, here is the link:
http://n4maa.us/alternator.htm
It is from a HAM radio guy and this puts an inductor (which causes frequencies only below a certain point to pass through) and a capacitor (which smooths out the electrical current in this case - many that have built speakers before know that this is a high pass filter as well - which means that in this "kit" it takes frequencies above a certain point and they go to ground if my electrical schematic reading is correct (If I'm wrong, lemme know!)).
To sum it up - this gets rid of the whine you get when trying to charge or cradle your phone in your car while it is hooked to the aux in of your stereo.
You'll have to find a way to put this inline with the electrical supply to your device (like get an extension cord for a cigarette lighter plug with male on one end, female on the other and splice this in the middle. NOTE: the red wire attaches to the wire that feeds the tip of the cigarette adapter. the clips or outside of it is the ground, which is the line the black wire goes to. That said, if you have issues, just reply to this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wowsers! That's a BIG filter - probably overkill for your phone or other music player. Not that it won't work, but you could probably experiment with smaller (cheaper, stealthier) components and still get rid of the wine. Might be interesting to build one in an Altoids box or something, maybe ...
For reference, my 100-watt ham radio draws slightly less than 20A when transmitting at full power.
I heard the whine sound comes from the wires current (the Power and RCA cables) running side by side ...I got rid of it just by running power on left side of car (cuz my batt is located in front left) to the amp then RCA on right side ...got rid of it and haven't heard it since...
2 Kicker CVRs 12'
Monoblock 750.1 Kicker amp
Custom sealed box tuned
Sony deck
Yellow Cap batt
5 Ferad Massive cap
Sent from my GB MIUI Fascinate
hi,
I might be posting this again so sorry for that and bad grammar if any.
I replaced digitizer on my pad and now screen is not working . i hear notification sounds coming up so i am sure that its switched on. but nothing is on the screen. and also the indication light wihich turns green when charging is also working. i am able to access internal memory fwhen connected to pc so i think everything is okay inside.
thanks
Check the following after you pull the back case of the unit and then flick the main board power rocker switch to the off position:
- the LCD connector that runs across the battery - make sure that both ends of it are plugged in and make sure they are both snug. Re-seat the connectors. Make sure there are no broken pins on both sides in both the male and female parts of both connectors. Also make sure that you did not kill one of the connector wires.
You may have broken your screen when pulling it off the digitizer. One strong pull or twist too many or too much heat from the heat gun can do that.
Check that you have put the ribbon connectors in properly.. I just did one late at night and found that had not locked them in right.. Also check you have the right parts as it seems there were different variations being sold
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
luffy092 said:
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Beut said:
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them
That wouldnt be Intelisol in Fort Worth Tx?
QUOTE=Beut;65498191]I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them[/QUOTE]
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
I would check all posts/ threads/ responses from 'Beut'- he's a former samsumg repairman who's repaired thousands of these
[QQUOTE=chumvi;65509217]I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself[/QUOTE]
chumvi said:
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos won't help if you don't have experiences in soldering. There are many components close to these six pins, without experience and proper solder tip you will cause solder bridges on mainboard. I need a 10x microscope to see clearly what I am doing. You should bring it to a professional , they won't charge much for a 5 to 10 minute re work.
This is the original battery connector with hairline cracks
Then a re soldered battery connector which has more solders added to secure the connections
An experienced tech will routine re work on these two battery connectors first, even the screen is not flickering, because sooner or later it will come back with this problem.
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Hi from Spain, i not see the flickering on use, but whem was power off and i chargue apears a flash every 3 or 4 seconds... All time¿Can be the same problem?
Thanks
Hi all,
It's been two years I have been using my Z5 Compact, and the MicroUSB connector is hardly usable now.
I of course tried several cables.
It is very difficult to charge the telephone. I don't know exactly what the problem is. I tried cleaning with a dry air bomb (for keyboards etc.), but to no avail. Seems like a bad contact.
Is it possible to use electrical parts liquid cleaner to properly clean the USB contacts?
Anybody having the same experience?
MF
I had the same problem, usb cable didn't fit in entirely.
Culprit was a piece from the inside of my jeans pocket was pushed deep inside my usb port. It was pretty much stuck in there but once I got it out the problems where solved and I switched to magnetic usb cable to prevent this.
I got it out using very tiny pliers and a magnifying loupe.
Hope this helps..
Regards
Mine is going to die sometime, soon, too! i already bought a new one on ebay, laying ready to be installed here! In a couple of days i´ll take a hair dryer and then i´ll peel of the back cover and replace that broken connector
update: 17th of june!
Just wanted to tell you guys, it worked! I just replaced the USB Connector with the one i bought on Ebay, price was around 4 Euro or so, not much i think
It was rather easy, as i already own the needed tools (a very very small philips screw driver, and a tool to go underneath the back cover and a hairdryer)
took about 20 minutes or less!
Just use the hairddryer to heat up the back cover, then use the special tool (or a thin knife?) to loose the back cover and peel it off
then you have to remove 2 screws on the lower part, then you can remove some sort of a "bar" over the usb connector! next you have to lift the "motherboard" on the lower part (yes it moves down to the usb connector) but first disconnect the usb connector! then pull out the broken usb, shove the new one in and do all the above in reverse order!