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So after so many flashes of custom roms, kernels, modem, and etc.
Are you guys finding it harder for the micro-usb connector to actually get a tight fit into the phone? Mine's so loose that the slightest tug or movement will disconnect it from powering or connecting to my PC.
I slighlty fixed it with needle nose pliers , a more efficient fix anyone?
Im having the same issue
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Definitely noticed this too. I notice my usb cord after a minute of being plugged looks like it's coming out a little.
I actually don't have this issue. I don't know how much you guys flash but I am doing something daily beyond just charging. I don't move my phone around much when it is plugged in.
On my phone, thin plastic piece around the usb port is cracked and i sometimes confuse that with the sliding usb door and tries to close it until i looked down to notice that it's not the door that i'm trying to close
I've noticed this recently too (I've had mine since July). On mine, when holding the phone normally, if I push the cable toward the center of the phone and it comes loose. If I push it outward (toward the volume buttons), it doesn't really move.
If I open the usb door all the way, plug the cable in, then close the door *slightly*, it holds the cable a lot better. Not like it did when it was new though.
Has anyone diagnosed the cause of this yet?
Xstop said:
I slighlty fixed it with needle nose pliers , a more efficient fix anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly did you do? I was a little hesitant to try bend anything - I didn't want to make things worse.
tdogz said:
-What exactly did you do? I was a little hesitant to try bend anything - I didn't want to make things worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I do not recommend doing it this way until other means are available, remember, ruin your usb connection = your screwed.
But it's the sides of the usb connection I'm trying to tighten up. Where it forms / \
Mines so loose, that if I do a simple reboot and move the wires too much it will give me the: ! to android guy pic.
If it's becoming loose its due to the plastic bezel around mini usb port. Eventually it will crack at where the door hinge has to pass through the part just before the door becomes secure when set to open position. Not sure if it's a plastic quality problem with a certain batch just order a replacement.
Secondly the usb cord supplied is not flexible at the handle for the miniusb connector. Flex it to much you will dislodge the data + - wires. Took it apart and inspected. You'll need to resolder to fix it.
MarlowXim said:
If it's becoming loose its due to the plastic bezel around mini usb port. Eventually it will crack at where the door hinge has to pass through the part just before the door becomes secure when set to open position. Not sure if it's a plastic quality problem with a certain batch just order a replacement.
Secondly the usb cord supplied is not flexible at the handle for the miniusb connector. Flex it to much you will dislodge the data + - wires. Took it apart and inspected. You'll need to resolder to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that post
I have a question though: When you say order a replacement, do you mean a new phone or the little plastic bay that holds the charger?
I also bought this phone at launch, and I'm sure that means I am out of any kind of warranty.
UNLESS!
Is there a year warranty on hardware defects?
You're still under warranty (1 year). You'll have to deal with a AT&T DSC for replacement.
norcal einstein said:
You're still under warranty (1 year). You'll have to deal with a AT&T DSC for replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does that mean I should back up with Titanium Backup and flash back to stock?
cracks
My cappy has 2 tiny cracks on the top of it. One where you posted ( between the charging port and the back of the phone ) and another between the headphone jack and the back of the phone. They are so small no one would notice them unless looking. Returning the phone would be too much of a hassle for me ( I'm lazy ).
My idea was if the plastic began to chip or crack anywhere else I would just buy a bodyglove case and voila - no more cracks. And I didn't have to talk with an AT&Tard to fix it.
daleaf said:
So does that mean I should back up with Titanium Backup and flash back to stock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you actually have physical damage to your USB port to warrant a replacement phone, yes...I'd say flash back to stock.
If you're trying to address any problems you have with the USB slider door, I doubt they'll replace your phone. You'll probably have to have it sent in to Samsung for repair, and shipped back to you. Of course if your phone goes to Samsung, you had better flash stock.
norcal einstein said:
If you actually have physical damage to your USB port to warrant a replacement phone, yes...I'd say flash back to stock.
If you're trying to address any problems you have with the USB slider door, I doubt they'll replace your phone. You'll probably have to have it sent in to Samsung for repair, and shipped back to you. Of course if your phone goes to Samsung, you had better flash stock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the slider door. That is broken now too, but it isn't a problem for me. It is the USB cord won't stay in the charing port anymore. It is a bit of a hassle to wake up in the morning and my phone didn't charge.
For each usb wire that I use, I am now gently crimping the top and bottom of the usb connector to get a tighter fit. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK THOUGH
It seemed to help me to get a tighter fit and now I don't have to check if the sucker is charging or not.
But yea, I was at the point where it would not charge my phone if I did not get it right, sucks I know.
Xstop said:
For each usb wire that I use, I am now gently crimping the top and bottom of the usb connector to get a tighter fit. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK THOUGH
It seemed to help me to get a tighter fit and now I don't have to check if the sucker is charging or not.
But yea, I was at the point where it would not charge my phone if I did not get it right, sucks I know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
^^^I also did that and it helps^^^
And, on the usb wires I use, there are little prongs, or tabs, that I gently pulled up with a tiny flathead screwdriver, actually a clean razor blade worked better... But I pulled those tabs up, and now I have a pretty snug fit.
And of course, do that at your own risk.
I started having this issue too where the lightest touch on the sides would bump it loose from the connector. In my case though I noticed that I did not have the door open completely all the way (yeah DUH). Once I pushed it completely open it fit much better.
Xstop said:
So after so many flashes of custom roms, kernels, modem, and etc.
Are you guys finding it harder for the micro-usb connector to actually get a tight fit into the phone? Mine's so loose that the slightest tug or movement will disconnect it from powering or connecting to my PC.
I slighlty fixed it with needle nose pliers , a more efficient fix anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have flashed a lot and my phone is repeatedly connected and disconnected from USB at my desk all day at work and my usb still fits snug. But about 2 weeks ago the little plastic sliding door started sticking as I was opening and closing it and yesterday it finally just fell out of my cappy. Bought on release day last July.
I had this problem too, but it was the cable, not the phone.
Got a new OEM cable off of Amazon, and now it's nice and snug. Maybe not 100% like new, but pretty close.
Because of the little metal hooks on them, Micro USB cables tend to wear out much faster than the Mini USB cables of old.
I swapped mine out last week for another refurb (number two) because of this. It got to the point that I had to make sure the cable was in precisely the right spot otherwise out wouldn't charge.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897
I took my TF700 apart last night as the digitizer was not working following a drop and assumed that a cable had come loose.
Anyway, made a mistake while doing it.
I could not disconnect the cables between the LCD and digitizer and the connectors.
I since realise that there is a small white bar that you flip up. I presume I have "broken" the connectors or something as the tablet works fine when plugged into HDMI, but I cannot use the digitizer and the screen does not come on.
Any suggestions? Most that I have found have suggested "throw away and buy again as spares too much", but wondered if anyone had a bright idea.
I have found why the digitizer was not working, there is corrosion over the SD card and around the top connector to the digitizer nearest the SD card slot. It looks like mositure/drip got into the slot and may have shorted something? I have cleaned off the surface debris as much as can.
Anyway this would not impact the LCD which still displayed (until connector concern.)
Following that, is anyone getting rid of their TF700 and would be interested in selling it at a sensible price?
Thanks
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
The OP here may be willing to sell a likely brick:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2769818
flhthemi said:
If you didn't pull that white bar off or break it, it could possibly be that you have not properly inserted the ribbon cable and fastened the connector. I would open it again and check this before I did anything else.
Most of them work like this:
Open it by pulling at each end of the white bar until it moves foward a little, then gently lift it to about 45 degeres and the cable slides out with a slight tug. Putting the cable back in is the reverse. That bar has to be loose and at about 45 degrees to get the cable back inside the connector. Make sure the end of the cable is in straight and close the connector. Cable should be tight and not come out if you gently tug it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
Digitizer or Ribbon Cable or ZIF socket ??? How to tell ???
dilfred said:
Thank you for the suggestions, I have tried that, but none of the 3 connectors (2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD) respond. I connected it to the HDMI, but cannot see the screen respondin to my finger (maybe that is broken also ha ha)
Is it more likely the connector, or cable is broken? I suspect connector pins to be honest. Abit small for me to see though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Greetings!
Just curious how this problem worked out? I too have a TF700 with a working screen but no digitizer. Some time back during my first battery replacement (another story) I tried (we ARE a curious species you know) to open the ZIF socket for the digitizer cable (has twin, gold ribbons) and accidentally flipped the wrong side... needless to say it did NOT flip open. The black plastic top of the socket broke off exposing a little of the ribbon. Everything still worked fine so I counted myself lucky and closed her up and all was good.
Unfortunately I'm never willing to leave sleeping dogs alone and I attempted to replace the 2nd dud battery with yet another one (don't ever trust those "Brand New" eBay batteries)! This time I must have accidentally pulled on a ribbon cable a bit too much. When I closed up the tablet I ended up with a tablet just like yours... everything works great... just not with my finger! I opened it up AGAIN... to replace the original battery... you never can tell you know... while I was in there I tried reseating the digitizer cables (both sockets)... no luck.
So... now what... I'm hearing that some folks had their digitizers fail after about a year anyway... mine is two years old... so my digitizer COULD have just failed... or it COULD have been my messing with the ribbons and/or ZIF connectors. How to tell ??? Is there ANYTHING one can do short of ordering a replacement ZIF socket PC board ($25 eBay) and / or ribbon? With a two year old device I'm reluctant to spend much on repair... ASUS wanted $184 to fix it... and buying an eBay digitizer or ZIF board on the blind chance that one or the other is the problem seems a bit risky.... to say nothing about the chance of mucking up the heat separation of the LCD/digitizer! What's a digital explorer to do???
The only thing I was unable to determine was where does the forked golden digitizer ribbon cable GO on the glass end. Does THAT end ever come loose? How does it attach to the digitizer? Anything I could "fix" on that end?
hi,
I might be posting this again so sorry for that and bad grammar if any.
I replaced digitizer on my pad and now screen is not working . i hear notification sounds coming up so i am sure that its switched on. but nothing is on the screen. and also the indication light wihich turns green when charging is also working. i am able to access internal memory fwhen connected to pc so i think everything is okay inside.
thanks
Check the following after you pull the back case of the unit and then flick the main board power rocker switch to the off position:
- the LCD connector that runs across the battery - make sure that both ends of it are plugged in and make sure they are both snug. Re-seat the connectors. Make sure there are no broken pins on both sides in both the male and female parts of both connectors. Also make sure that you did not kill one of the connector wires.
You may have broken your screen when pulling it off the digitizer. One strong pull or twist too many or too much heat from the heat gun can do that.
Check that you have put the ribbon connectors in properly.. I just did one late at night and found that had not locked them in right.. Also check you have the right parts as it seems there were different variations being sold
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
luffy092 said:
I got the same issue, and yesterday I just unplugged and replugged the battery connector which solved my issue.
But I believe this is temporarly and that I would do a better repair if I do solder.
Thanks for providing pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Ya unfortunately the wire connectors inside the white plastic connector aren't making a tight pinch on the terminals and there is no way to close the distance without getting the white connector out of the way. You could remove the white plastic connector and pinch each one on with needle nose pliers but you might as well solder them on if you go that far. This is why people are having problems replacement tablets- its faulty battery connectors…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Beut said:
The battery connector with 6 wires only a minor source of flickering screen. You don't need to cut and solder it to the male connector.
The loose connector can be fixed by pushing the opening tip closer like this
Samsung fix it by adding the silver conductive glue like this
The major problem is from the male connector soldered to the mainboard. From my professional experiences, 90 % from cracked male connector ( black with 6 pins and soldered to mainboard ) , only 10% causing by loose female battery connector ( white with 6 wires ) : Samsung just simply use a conductive glue.
Trust me, I have fixed not a few but hundreds of them with this problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tjmethod said:
Great pictures! Well it looks like I am one of the lucky ones- glad I was able to even solder those wires on to the male connector terminals. I did check them- they were solid- I wouldn't have been able to have done it without the Carson LED Magnavisor- its got 4 different interchangeable power lenses. I dont think my tip would have been small enough to heat up the solder on the male connector termials- but I totally believe you most are cracked- glad I havent had a problem since. I have like 5 note tablets and the xe7000t1a windows slate in fact almost everything I own is Samsung including the 17" i7 chronos notebook I'm typing this on. So do you do this sort of thing in the line of business?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them
That wouldnt be Intelisol in Fort Worth Tx?
QUOTE=Beut;65498191]I used to work at Samsung Repair Center, fixed more than thousands of them[/QUOTE]
tjmethod said:
Since changing settings in developer options did nothing for me I checked all the terminals on the black hub soldered to the board with a small precision screwdriver with were all solidly in place so I spliced apart the white battery connector housing to remove completely (this is where the Carson Pro LED Magnavisor from Amazon was a must from Amazon). I then proceeded to attach and solder each battery connector to it's terminal then solder each one in place. the solder job isn't the prettiest but it works, then I cut small pieces of plastic to put in place between the 6 leads, rescrewed the battery down, put the tape back on the connection, fired it up and not one flash or flicker! I'm on 18% battery right now which before would have been going off like the 4th of July. The only thing that perplexes me is that before the fix and booting into recovery, not one flash or flicker but booting back into system and was a flickerfest. I can only guess recovery runs on only a lead or 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
I would check all posts/ threads/ responses from 'Beut'- he's a former samsumg repairman who's repaired thousands of these
[QQUOTE=chumvi;65509217]I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself[/QUOTE]
chumvi said:
I was asking is there any video which shows steps by step on how to do the solder because i want to do that myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Videos won't help if you don't have experiences in soldering. There are many components close to these six pins, without experience and proper solder tip you will cause solder bridges on mainboard. I need a 10x microscope to see clearly what I am doing. You should bring it to a professional , they won't charge much for a 5 to 10 minute re work.
This is the original battery connector with hairline cracks
Then a re soldered battery connector which has more solders added to secure the connections
An experienced tech will routine re work on these two battery connectors first, even the screen is not flickering, because sooner or later it will come back with this problem.
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 AM ----------
Hi guys,
I didn't want to post in an old thread, but I'm still having trouble with my Note. I took it to a "Pro" to solder the connectors down because the whole thing came off the board somehow. The "Pro" was pretty useless. He left solder all over the place and the tablet was shorting when I picked it up. So I took it back and the photo shows what I ended up with after 4 attempts at fixing the flickering. At this point I've decided to dump the "Pro" and solder the wires directly to the circuit pads. Only one problem - Solder will not stick to the pads no matter what I do. I've tried heating the pads with the iron before applying the solder but it wont stick. I've cleaned the site with alcohol and took off the sticky residue left by the "Pro".
Can anyone see an issue in the photo which might be causing the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Hi from Spain, i not see the flickering on use, but whem was power off and i chargue apears a flash every 3 or 4 seconds... All time¿Can be the same problem?
Thanks
Hi all,
It's been two years I have been using my Z5 Compact, and the MicroUSB connector is hardly usable now.
I of course tried several cables.
It is very difficult to charge the telephone. I don't know exactly what the problem is. I tried cleaning with a dry air bomb (for keyboards etc.), but to no avail. Seems like a bad contact.
Is it possible to use electrical parts liquid cleaner to properly clean the USB contacts?
Anybody having the same experience?
MF
I had the same problem, usb cable didn't fit in entirely.
Culprit was a piece from the inside of my jeans pocket was pushed deep inside my usb port. It was pretty much stuck in there but once I got it out the problems where solved and I switched to magnetic usb cable to prevent this.
I got it out using very tiny pliers and a magnifying loupe.
Hope this helps..
Regards
Mine is going to die sometime, soon, too! i already bought a new one on ebay, laying ready to be installed here! In a couple of days i´ll take a hair dryer and then i´ll peel of the back cover and replace that broken connector
update: 17th of june!
Just wanted to tell you guys, it worked! I just replaced the USB Connector with the one i bought on Ebay, price was around 4 Euro or so, not much i think
It was rather easy, as i already own the needed tools (a very very small philips screw driver, and a tool to go underneath the back cover and a hairdryer)
took about 20 minutes or less!
Just use the hairddryer to heat up the back cover, then use the special tool (or a thin knife?) to loose the back cover and peel it off
then you have to remove 2 screws on the lower part, then you can remove some sort of a "bar" over the usb connector! next you have to lift the "motherboard" on the lower part (yes it moves down to the usb connector) but first disconnect the usb connector! then pull out the broken usb, shove the new one in and do all the above in reverse order!