http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HimalayaCradleMod
The Modification of the Himalaya Cradle to charge from USB is quite simple:
Underneath the little USB-Connector inside the cradle there is a test-point that carries USB-5V. Scratch the green paint from the pcb trace that carries the testpoint. Solder the scratched surface to get a solderpad. Kolophonium is your friend here.
Solder a Shotty-Diode to the pad. The Anode of the Shottky should be connected to the testpoint. Solder a Bluewire (other colors wont work though from to the Kathode of the Shottky to the internal side of the Fuse which is intended to protect the external 5V-Supply from short circuits.
The Mod was carried out yesterday.
Pictures and a detailed Desciption will follow soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where can I see the picture for the mod.
I was doing a repair to my ASUS TF101 and damaged the connector for a ribbon cable on to a PCB. It's about 10mm wide and has 20 pins. It is the type where a black piece of plastic folds down to hold the cable in place. This has snapped off
Is it possible to get a spare part online and fix this? If not glue it in place??
See the link for a picture http://bit.ly/OPdO97
Thanks
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
Tabbajit said:
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper pad has glue where the processor and the rams are. Some might have glue at the far left and right side. But you can lift it off (you will break the warranty seal in the process). If you're replacing the motherboard, you need to:
A. Disconnect (1) the battery (connector located underneath the copper pad); (2) charging cable (flat amber); (3) touchscreen cable (flat white or silver, sometimes covered with black tape); (4) lcd screen cable (strand of multi-colored wires taped down to the battery); (5) remove the small amber cable connecting the power switch to the MB; and (6) disconnect the speakers connector from the MB.
B. Remove all the tiny screws in plain sight holding the MB to the magnesium frame.
C. Lift the cameras off their slots with something non-metal, like a toothpick.
D. Lift the MB just a bit to make sure it's loose, then SLIDE it out to the left, paying particular attention to the power button module (small amber ribbon assembly at the top right corner). If you pull it straight up, you will rip it.
Reassembly is just the reverse. Be sure to connect the battery last, just before reinstalling the copper pad. Good luck. Go to this thread for pics.
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, the copper pad is smeared with some heat-conducting adhesive at contact points with the processor and ram chips. Some people would just stick it back. It didn't hold as well the second time though, in my experience. I cleaned off the sticky stuff, used Arctic Silver 5 on both components, and stuck some copper tape around the pad's edge. Just personal preferences.
Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think it is necessary...
so there are 2 cables I am not able to disconnect. one is the larger longer cooper ribbon that connects to the charging\docking port. the other has a similar connection. it is under black tape and is between the mico hdmi output and a multi color ribbon. I was able to get the other ones disconnected. Please help. Trying to take my time but I am getting frustrated and worried I am going to break something
EDIT- I figured it out. The black part behind the tan connection part is tinny but flips up. I got it disconnected. That was easier than I though!
Anisotropic Conductive Film adhesive for Flat Flex Ribbon repair of LCD screen is what needs to be done to repair my Note 4 LCD screen. I can find the companies that sell the machines and the adhesive but I can't find someone who will do the repairs. Anyone you know of in Canada or USA or anywhere who does these kinds of repairs?
Update - Feb19th - I was able, and very surprisingly, to solder the contacts together by first coating a thin layer of solder on both sets of contacts and then by precisely aligning them and finally applying solder tip to the exposed edge of the strips. Initially, I thought I could use heat and pressure to reattach the strips, since that's how they are bonded, but that didn't work.
While soldering a new power button ribbon cable to my mainboard I accidentally bumped one of my NFC antenna pogo pins and soldered it solid.
As expected all attempts at soldering it only added more solder. I have ripped apart a stash of phones I had laying around and found a few pogo pins in them all too large.
Here you can see an image of the mainboard along with some example pogo pins.
something of similar size or a suitable method to make nfc great again would be cool!
http://imgur.com/a/eNSfA
Thanks for your efforts to help!