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Download Mode USB cable

I've been meaning to put this up here for a while, it's nothing special really just thought it'd be nice to share.
Basically all I did was open up a USB cable I bought off of amazon and added a resistor (and then later added a jumper).
The cables I purchased are legit data/charging OEM Samsung "U2" cables (the shorter 3ft long cables).
After doing my best to keep the original plastic housing intact while removing it, I then soldered some solid copper wire to the ID and GND connections.
(I used some of the internal copper wires from some cat5e cabling I had lying around.)
I then soldered a resistor between the two wires, carved out some space in the plastic housing for the new wires, snapped the plastic housing back on and applied some heat-shrink tubing to seal it all up.
This proved to be a bad idea.
Having the resistor always attached rendered the cable useless for anything but Download Mode (adb will not function with the resistor attached).
So I fixed that issue by adding a jumper to the resistor.
This allows to force Download Mode with the jumper on, as well as normal USB functionality with the jumper off.
So there you have it... my custom DL mode cable.
I went ahead and made an imgur album that has a few more pics.
=]

Note::
I used some BBCode "hide" tags to hide the excessively large pictures.
Just click "Show Content" to see the images.
=]

THATS awesome! Legit, really cool!

Very nice!

I've been using a motorola data/charging cable Model:SKN5004A for all of my adb/download mode/everything else. It works great.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda app-developers app

[Q] Motherboard replacement help

Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.

Tabbajit said:
Anyone have a guide or tips on replacing the motherboard. My tablet bricked while updating to 10.6.1.8 and is stuck in the Asus splash screen. I've seen to utube vid on the screen replacement but can not seem to find a motherboard how to. It seems to motherboard must be removed during the screen replacement. Will I need paste? Is the large copper heat sink cover glued on? Any advise would be great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper pad has glue where the processor and the rams are. Some might have glue at the far left and right side. But you can lift it off (you will break the warranty seal in the process). If you're replacing the motherboard, you need to:
A. Disconnect (1) the battery (connector located underneath the copper pad); (2) charging cable (flat amber); (3) touchscreen cable (flat white or silver, sometimes covered with black tape); (4) lcd screen cable (strand of multi-colored wires taped down to the battery); (5) remove the small amber cable connecting the power switch to the MB; and (6) disconnect the speakers connector from the MB.
B. Remove all the tiny screws in plain sight holding the MB to the magnesium frame.
C. Lift the cameras off their slots with something non-metal, like a toothpick.
D. Lift the MB just a bit to make sure it's loose, then SLIDE it out to the left, paying particular attention to the power button module (small amber ribbon assembly at the top right corner). If you pull it straight up, you will rip it.
Reassembly is just the reverse. Be sure to connect the battery last, just before reinstalling the copper pad. Good luck. Go to this thread for pics.

Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?

Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, the copper pad is smeared with some heat-conducting adhesive at contact points with the processor and ram chips. Some people would just stick it back. It didn't hold as well the second time though, in my experience. I cleaned off the sticky stuff, used Arctic Silver 5 on both components, and stuck some copper tape around the pad's edge. Just personal preferences.

Tabbajit said:
Thanks for the pointers. Will I need any thermal paste for the processor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think it is necessary...

so there are 2 cables I am not able to disconnect. one is the larger longer cooper ribbon that connects to the charging\docking port. the other has a similar connection. it is under black tape and is between the mico hdmi output and a multi color ribbon. I was able to get the other ones disconnected. Please help. Trying to take my time but I am getting frustrated and worried I am going to break something
EDIT- I figured it out. The black part behind the tan connection part is tinny but flips up. I got it disconnected. That was easier than I though!

[MOD] S Advance Touchstone mod

Hi guys,
I have seen this mod done on various devices. For those who haven't heard of it, just google wireless charging mod and you will be flooded with links.
I am very sorry for the links in the quotes, but I haven't reached the 10 posts which are required to post links, so I will come back sometime and fix it, or if some mod can do it, I would be really glad.
Demonstration :
youtube.com/watch?v=8yV50Hudpzk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not responsible for any crime, catastrophe, natural disaster or any damage done to your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if you are okay with the above-mentioned, let's get started.
This mod is an easy one, you just need 5 things :
1. Wireless charging cover from Palm Pre or Palm Pixi
2. Palm Touchstone wireless dock station
3. Copper foil (can be bought from ebay or from your local stationery)
4. soldering iron, preferably with fine tip, but if you have some experience, you can get away with regular sized one
5. Galaxy S Advance (obviously )
Not required, but having a magnifying glass and an exacto knife can really help, because you can scratch off some of the blue solder mask, making your soldering area bigger, hence making the mod easier.
From what I've read on the S3 parts of xda, this mod should be possible also on the I9070P, without disabling or interfering with NFC.
I have put the wireless receiver under the silicone case, but you can put it under the back cover if you buy the Pixi one, I have bought this big monstrosity and gone around it this way.
Instructions​
0. Turn off your phone.
1. Disassemble the phone
You just have to take out 6 screws from under the back cover and then with a pick or something flat pry the assembly from the housing.
Here is the link for the disassembly video
youtube.com/watch?v=_0nuBDAuLm8
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Click to collapse
2. Solder 2 thin stripes of copper foil to the highlighted areas, the 5V one is a bigger square on the left of the microUSB port (which was the biggest bugger because all pinouts on the web show, that these squares are just supporting the connector on the PCB), and for the ground one, basically anything that's made out of metal should be grounded, I have soldered it directly to the side of the microUSB port, but I have seen one guy use the microSD card socket, so whatever you like .
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/pq7h.jpg/
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Click to collapse
3. Drag the foil under the battery to the outside of the phone.
4. Rip off the receiver module from the cover. Be sure that you don't forget any part, I was going nuts until I figured out, that I forgot the aluminium part of the module on the old cover.
5. Figure out, which terminal on the module is + and -, on mine, the top one was negative and the bottom one was positive, find someone with a multimeter or use some bulb or an LED to figure out the polarity, you can never be 100% sure.
6. Solder thicker pieces of copper foil to the + and - terminals of the receiver.
7. Align the foil from the phone with the foil from the module, + to +, - to -.
8. Enjoy your mod
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/19nq.jpg/
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Click to collapse
If you have any questions, please post them here, so everyone can see them when they have the same problem. Thanks for reading

make an otg cable.

Hey guys I recently googled and made my own otg cable. Actually a few and the procedure that I found were very solder intensive. I dont mind soldering tiny things but its not easy and it is so easy to mess it up. I got an easier way for those who enjoy building rather then buying. These cables are not expensive but its more rewarding to say I made that.
Here goes:
Get a regular micro usb cord. I got mine for a buck at dollor store. Make sure it has 5 contacts inside the phone end and try to get the hard plastic ends not the solid ends. They are much easier to work with.
Crack the phone end open carefully with a knife along the seam. You should be left with the metal tip and wires exposed.
The phone end is made up of a few parts and if you carefully pull the plastic peice closest to the wires out of the metal housing you will have all 5 contacts exposed. Keep ever part. You will need them.
This is the only soldering you have to do. Use a match book or a peice of thin card and insert it between the 3rd and 4th pin. Count from the red wire side. Should be right after the green wire contact. You are soldering the black wire pin to the next one. I bend my card in half and tape the end down to the table so it doesnt move. Very carefully and with very little solder and some acid paste flux to help it stick solder the last 2 contact prongs together. Just a tiny bit about 3 mm from the plastic on wire end will do. Dont put to much on or go to far to the end of the contacts. Make sure that only the 4 and 5 pin are soldered.
Gentally slide the contacts back into the metal housing. Use a flashlight to look inside and make sure they are all evenly spaced and back wherebthey were. Put the plastic cover back on and glue or tape it tight.
Go back to dollor store (cause why screw up a expensive cord. Practice on this first.) And get a female to female conector and you are done!
Plug your new otg cable into phone with the female to female conector on usb end and plug in your ext hard drive, flash drive, keyboard, mouse, etc into the female connector and your laughin'
It still works as a charger ( mine is plugged in now charging) and you have a otg cable aswell.
This worked very well for me but I caution you to be really carefull. If you fry your phone I won't send you a new one
Good luck!

What holds the USB-C cable end in the phone port without falling out?

What holds the USB-C cable end in the phone port without falling out?
My phone port suddenly "changed" (probably damaged but I don't yet know how or why) such that, all of a sudden, every USB-C cable (even brand new USB-C cables which work in other phones) won't "click and stick".
But when I look with a magnifying glass, I can't see anything wrong.
Not dust.
Not bent tabs.
Not a crooked rounded-rectangular enclosure.
Nothing seems wrong (before and after I tried to clean it out with a plastic toothpick and a blast of canned air).
The USB-C cable plug end won't "click & stick" in the phone opening unless I rubber band it (and then it charges the phone without falling out).
What should I look for that holds the USB-C cable end in the phone port?
Is it a friction fit only?
Is there a latch mechanism?
Did I break some secret tiny tab off somewhere?
Surprisingly, good images on the Internet for a closeup of the latch mechanism don't seem to exist. Drawings exist but they don't clearly show the latching mechanism well enough for me to know what to look for to see what must be broken.
Drawings and photos exist of the USB-C port in the phone, but NONE seem to be closeups of the latch mechanism. Is there a latch mechanism?
If not, how does it "click & stick" then?
What is it that makes the USB-C plug "click & stick" inside the phone port?