Hi, I've been using an audio adapter from PocketPCTechs (http://www.pocketpctechs.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=PPCPADPT01) with my XDA 2... However, the microphone doesn't work with this. Even if I plug in a regular mono-headset with microphone, that part doesn't work.
So I thought I'd cut the stereo headphones off of the headset that's included and wire that up to a cassette player adapter. My problem is that the wires going to the headset speakers are coated with some kind of paint along with a fiber which makes it very difficult to make a connection with the wires in the cassette player adapter. I took it to an electronics repair shop to see if they could solder a 3.5mm female audio plug to that end, but they said they couldn't because of those types of wires.
Has anyone had success in modifying the included stereo headset to play through a car stereo while also retaining microphone functionality (for Voice Command or Phone calls)??
You will need to crimp some metal contacts onto the wires to make a good electrical conection, but you MUST do your soldering onto the crimps first otherwise you will just melt the wires off of the crimp,
The wires are special lightweight metal coated plastic filament designed to reduce weight and enhance audio since HF signals only travel in the outer edge or a wire
i used a stanley knife blade to carefully scrape the plastic off but the metal is so thin it just crumbles away and the solder connection doesnt stick that well to it either the stuff is just like factory made and this kinda stops you modding it what i done was use a 3310 h/f kit and cut that up and solder a 3.5mm end to it worked great
gaz
Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?
Jargon said:
Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?
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No it isn't, the connector at the bottem is the same as the XDA 1 : http://www.xda-developers.com/connectors
On the XDA 1 audio out worked simultaneously with the internal speaker and mic. On the MDA/XDA 2 audio is rerouted to the bottemconnector if you ground Pin_19... The internal speaker and mic wil be disabled.
btw. i sucesfully managed to solder the previously mentioned wires... I went as far as opening a Nokia 8110 headset, rewire it internally and close the mic again You should carefully tin the wires before soldering them...
i recently did this also
when i bought my phone from t-mobile, i had my friend who works there huck me up with a extra usb sync cable
the connection that connects to the phone has 2 philips screws on it. if ur careful enough u can take it all apart to the point of getting to the pins / wires
the usb cable with the power inlet on the back of it up by the xda connector, has enough wires in it to cover you for audio left and right and mic + if u use a common ground (1 ground across all 3 connections)
this is important to know when your alpine cva-1004 uses a common ground and wont engage the video unless all 3 wires are grounded
anyways... i was able to use a ginsu kitchen steak knife (sharpest knife i had) to cut away the rubber shielding on the actual wires holding the wires to the pins. otherwise u could use ur soldering iron and just burn threw it, just try not to breath it in.
then u just un solder the wires, reroute them to the right pins. if u want, use some hot glue to seal them back up, but if u solder them strait enough, the casing will protect it enough
then clip off the usb end, i took a spare component PS2 video cable, the wires were thin enough to integrate nicly into the usb cable, clip that, strip it, solder those in. clean everything up with some black electrical tape and ur done
mine ? my alpine cva-1004 has a remote mute wire. plug the phone into the aux in on the radio in the car, run a mic cable and audio cables (or use speaker phone) and u have the closest thing to a in car cell phone.
also works nicly for listening to mp3s in the car, but my xm satelite radio has that pretty nicly covered
just my 2 cents, but its not hard. i didnt wanna screw up the cables, so it took me about 2 hours in total to do a nice job.
-Mario
oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
purpose of flux ? it makes the iron slippery to the point where it will hold solder (in liquid form) but once the solder touches the wires, release it from the iron
its like non stick spray for soldering irons
you may also be able to put the flux on the wire / connection itself, but iv never done that. little flux on the tip of the iron should help alot
non leaded flux id suggest, but if u dont know what flux is or hot of a iron u should use, u probably shouldnt be doing this project
-Mario
2GMario said:
oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
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Tin = solder, sorry i'm Dutch Didn't use anything else, no flux.
A lot of ppl just stick two wires together and try to fill the gaps with solder
This might 'work' with relatifly thick copperwires, but not with these...
Put some solder on the wires before soldering them together.
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HimalayaCradleMod
The Modification of the Himalaya Cradle to charge from USB is quite simple:
Underneath the little USB-Connector inside the cradle there is a test-point that carries USB-5V. Scratch the green paint from the pcb trace that carries the testpoint. Solder the scratched surface to get a solderpad. Kolophonium is your friend here.
Solder a Shotty-Diode to the pad. The Anode of the Shottky should be connected to the testpoint. Solder a Bluewire (other colors wont work though from to the Kathode of the Shottky to the internal side of the Fuse which is intended to protect the external 5V-Supply from short circuits.
The Mod was carried out yesterday.
Pictures and a detailed Desciption will follow soon.
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Where can I see the picture for the mod.
Hey guys I recently googled and made my own otg cable. Actually a few and the procedure that I found were very solder intensive. I dont mind soldering tiny things but its not easy and it is so easy to mess it up. I got an easier way for those who enjoy building rather then buying. These cables are not expensive but its more rewarding to say I made that.
Here goes:
Get a regular micro usb cord. I got mine for a buck at dollor store. Make sure it has 5 contacts inside the phone end and try to get the hard plastic ends not the solid ends. They are much easier to work with.
Crack the phone end open carefully with a knife along the seam. You should be left with the metal tip and wires exposed.
The phone end is made up of a few parts and if you carefully pull the plastic peice closest to the wires out of the metal housing you will have all 5 contacts exposed. Keep ever part. You will need them.
This is the only soldering you have to do. Use a match book or a peice of thin card and insert it between the 3rd and 4th pin. Count from the red wire side. Should be right after the green wire contact. You are soldering the black wire pin to the next one. I bend my card in half and tape the end down to the table so it doesnt move. Very carefully and with very little solder and some acid paste flux to help it stick solder the last 2 contact prongs together. Just a tiny bit about 3 mm from the plastic on wire end will do. Dont put to much on or go to far to the end of the contacts. Make sure that only the 4 and 5 pin are soldered.
Gentally slide the contacts back into the metal housing. Use a flashlight to look inside and make sure they are all evenly spaced and back wherebthey were. Put the plastic cover back on and glue or tape it tight.
Go back to dollor store (cause why screw up a expensive cord. Practice on this first.) And get a female to female conector and you are done!
Plug your new otg cable into phone with the female to female conector on usb end and plug in your ext hard drive, flash drive, keyboard, mouse, etc into the female connector and your laughin'
It still works as a charger ( mine is plugged in now charging) and you have a otg cable aswell.
This worked very well for me but I caution you to be really carefull. If you fry your phone I won't send you a new one
Good luck!
While soldering a new power button ribbon cable to my mainboard I accidentally bumped one of my NFC antenna pogo pins and soldered it solid.
As expected all attempts at soldering it only added more solder. I have ripped apart a stash of phones I had laying around and found a few pogo pins in them all too large.
Here you can see an image of the mainboard along with some example pogo pins.
something of similar size or a suitable method to make nfc great again would be cool!
http://imgur.com/a/eNSfA
Thanks for your efforts to help!
What holds the USB-C cable end in the phone port without falling out?
My phone port suddenly "changed" (probably damaged but I don't yet know how or why) such that, all of a sudden, every USB-C cable (even brand new USB-C cables which work in other phones) won't "click and stick".
But when I look with a magnifying glass, I can't see anything wrong.
Not dust.
Not bent tabs.
Not a crooked rounded-rectangular enclosure.
Nothing seems wrong (before and after I tried to clean it out with a plastic toothpick and a blast of canned air).
The USB-C cable plug end won't "click & stick" in the phone opening unless I rubber band it (and then it charges the phone without falling out).
What should I look for that holds the USB-C cable end in the phone port?
Is it a friction fit only?
Is there a latch mechanism?
Did I break some secret tiny tab off somewhere?
Surprisingly, good images on the Internet for a closeup of the latch mechanism don't seem to exist. Drawings exist but they don't clearly show the latching mechanism well enough for me to know what to look for to see what must be broken.
Drawings and photos exist of the USB-C port in the phone, but NONE seem to be closeups of the latch mechanism. Is there a latch mechanism?
If not, how does it "click & stick" then?
What is it that makes the USB-C plug "click & stick" inside the phone port?