Database Info

[Q] cracking the transformer open, need ideas

im trying to crack the transformer open and do u think the back is glued on or is it screwed on? im thinking theres probrably some screws behind the lable but cant seams to find anything here that wont scratch it to remove it. hit me up with ideas and hopfully I can post some kind of video on how to dissacemble the transformer.

It will most likely be fastened with screws. I think if it had been glue peoples cases wouldnt be 'creaky'. There were some pics on a Chinese site showing it open. I saved them to my pc, If I find them I'll upload.
Edit: Well I found them but they're not really showing the case. I'll attach them anyways and you can see if they help or not. It looks like once you get the bezel off the back just slides clean off.

Ok well scratch screws under the asus logo, thanks very much for those pics. I already have the screws out from the bottom. I'm guessing the back seals with some type of clips

Looking at there tools in second picture seams they used a guitar pic to losses it from its edges

cowballz69 said:
Looking at there tools in second picture seams they used a guitar pic to losses it from its edges
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe try a credit card?

Ha tore up my room looking for my guitar pic lol. Ill try my credit card

When in doubt use a hammer.

stuntdouble said:
When in doubt use a hammer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, tryed to use a credit card but its to thick, going to stop at the store tomorrow and pick one up

cowballz69, pm sent

If you have one, your best bet is a Stanley knife (boxcutter, I think you call them). Should be thin enough, you'll just have to be careful not to nick any internal crap.
If it were me, I'd use a scalpel, but I know most people don't have one handy.

ok well heres my mini review untill i get a guitar pick, i got the bottom half to crack open with a credit card(to thick but i did it), i was then able to slide the card from one end to the other. The plastic clips holding the metal are very very crappy. the metal was extreemly easy to bend and by just putting the card threw the bottom was enough to bend it. i was however; able to put it back together with out making it look as if i opened it, but u would need a ULTRA Thin piece of plastic to complete the mission(DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE BUT PLASTIC,,THE METAL AROUND THE EDGE IS SUPER FRAGLE). seams all ASUS does is pop the plastic backing in and screw the bottom and its off to who every buys it.
(Losining the bottom screws lowerd the light bleed that was there by 30% ( i was a full brightness and back screen and loosining the screwes made a big impact so the issue with the light bleed is to much pressure on those areas)
seams this is easy enough just need the right tools.

cowballz69 said:
(Losining the bottom screws lowerd the light bleed that was there by 30% ( i was a full brightness and back screen and loosining the screwes made a big impact so the issue with the light bleed is to much pressure on those areas)
seams this is easy enough just need the right tools.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. That seems to be the very spot where my screen has a little backlight bleeding. I'll try it out in a few minutes.

Youtube it
If this is the fix. A youtube vid would be awesome. Ready set go

paleridr said:
If this is the fix. A youtube vid would be awesome. Ready set go
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats not the only spot i have light bleed, i also have bleeding on the top portion and theres no screw to losen so must be on to tight from the inside. however this does prove that the bleeding is from pressure not the screen itself

You need these spudgers,
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/professional-premium-precision-phone-disassembly-tool-7-piece-set-23050
Get a few sets (if you're planning on opening up electronics on a regular basis). These are soft plastic, and will wear out after a few uses. You don't want to use anything harder like a knife, as then you will mar the 'lips' on the device shells. Aesthetics aside, that will show up as evidence of tampering, meaning goodbye warranty.
Most electronics use plastic snap-in clips to hold the shells, along with screws and possibly soft glue. Going slow will prevent the clips from snapping off, but not always.
You can find these same tools on Amazon and eBay. Just search on 'spudger', which is their name.
Use the guitar pick to get the initial crease, push one of the thicker wedges into the crease, and slide it along the seam. This assumes you've gotten all of the (hidden) screws.

e.mote said:
You need these spudgers,
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/professional-premium-precision-phone-disassembly-tool-7-piece-set-23050
Get a few sets (if you're planning on opening up electronics on a regular basis). These are soft plastic, and will wear out after a few uses. You don't want to use anything harder like a knife, as then you will mar the 'lips' on the device shells. Aesthetics aside, that will show up as evidence of tampering, meaning goodbye warranty.
Most electronics use plastic snap-in clips to hold the shells, along with screws and possibly soft glue. Going slow will prevent the clips from snapping off, but not always.
You can find these same tools on Amazon and eBay. Just search on 'spudger', which is their name.
Use the guitar pick to get the initial crease, push one of the thicker wedges into the crease, and slide it along the seam. This assumes you've gotten all of the (hidden) screws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
breaking a clip is def possible in this case

How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?

jrac86 said:
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's a torx.

jrac86 said:
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a Torx T6 bit.
When you opened it up, was there anything to suggest there was any way Asus would know you had opened it up please (if you hadnt bent the bezel ofc) if you needed to send it back under warranty for some reason?

opening is not recomended threw my experiance * I used the thinnest guitar pic today*,and the metal around the edge;any slight flex and it ends up staying that way and wont go back on straight no matter how carefull u are, also the clips that hold the plastic back to the bezil is ULTRA CRAPPY to a point u have a 50 50 chance of it not holding the plastic cover anymore. ON the plus side; if u loosen the bolts in the bottom, u can relieve the light bleed there. so reguarding the light bleed its best to just send it back to ASUS to get it fixed.
MY Next step is having ASUS fix my light bleed on my own tablet and not have them give me a replacement.
I will be posting a before picture of the light bleed when i send it out , and a After picture on when i recieve it back from them. good idea??

Teardown Video?

Has anyone seen a teardown video for the g2x or the o2x? I want to try to fix the screen bleeding issue on my own. I was able to get the back cover off, remove the camera and unplug the ribbons from the back circuit board but I couldnt see/figure out how to get the front cover to separate from the back. I thought I got all the screws. I just need to figure out how to remove the bezel/glass and I can tinker with trying to fix the screen bleed. I'm also sure I have to do something to remove the sdcard and sim connector but not sure what. lol If I could just get the bezel and glass off though I think I could play around with the lcd under it.. Anyone have any ideas?

its all glued together... check this thread... http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1115252

Yep peel glue the LCD glue came up wayyy easier than the digitizer glass since I accidentally got a piece of something on my LCD I will be re taking it apart and doing a video
Sent from my LG-P999 using XDA Premium App

I haven't taken a g2x apart but on other phones I've repaired I always use a heat gun around the edges of the screen to soften the glue so it comes apart more easily.

[FIX] Annoying creaking noise

I just started developing this odd creaking noise near the bottom and sides of my S4G. Even with a Seidio Active case wrapped around it, the creaking can be felt and heard when hitting the bottom buttons.
The fix is pretty easy. You just need to decrease the amount of movement the back cover has.
I had some .010 mil fiber (fish) paper laying around so I cut a small square that covers the sim card and microsd card area. You can probably use something else, but hey, why not use some insulated paper if you have it.
Lay the paper on top of the area and then slowly place the back cover back on. No holes are in that area above the sim and microsd, so no worries there. You should see an immediate improvement

I needed more than that to stop the creaking/screen movement.
Pathetic we have to go to these lengths

jlevy73 said:
I needed more than that to stop the creaking/screen movement.
Pathetic we have to go to these lengths
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you have to do?
I tried used two squares of paper, but that made the back bulge out a little too much to my liking.

GideonX said:
What did you have to do?
I tried used two squares of paper, but that made the back bulge out a little too much to my liking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took a post-it and folded it twice. Then placed it on the bottom right area and closed up the cover. For me when I press down on the bottom right side of the screen the whole screen sort of depresses a bit. Only way I could get rid of that was to place the paper in that region. Problem solved.

Post it would have been my backup method
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G

buy another battery, i recently got an anker also had the creaking problems, noticed the anker is a TINY bit thicker than the stock battery and it removed that problem completely. and that anker battery was DIRT cheap

I just lined the case with some scotch tape. from the bottom to about 3/4 of the way up. I just went around the antenna nubs and the usb hole.

Posted this in another thread, but felt it was valuable here too...
Got the creaking here also, definitely a design flaw. Being obsessive with my devices i couldnt live with it!
I do not recommend putting paper in the cover to fill the gap, as this is just expanding the cover further making it even MORE loose when the paper is not in there. Also i wouldn't recommend it because the paper pushes the back cover out a little more, you may loose a connection for the ground. Which is the little metal springy thing, half way up the right hand side. Obviously its not a good idea to 'push' the cover further away from this ground spot. I have heard that people have had issues with screen responsiveness due to a static build up from not grounding properly.
What i did to fix this problem was a bit of a kitbash of sorts.
Mine was creaking on the bottom right area, like most. The problem is there is too much play between the little black catches on the battery cover and the latch on the handset. Instead of filling up the gap between the phone and the cover (Ala paper, card in the cover) I closed it!
What you need to do is get some very thin plastic film. Like that on kids toy packaging etc. Not the thicker stuff though. This stuff would be under 1mm thick. It came as a viewing window in the box my new wallet came in. So you can sorta imagine what im talking about.
I cut a piece about 10mm long and as wide as one of the two little black catches. I applied a VERY thin coat of super glue to one end of the film. Just enough to cover the area under the catch. Then i carefully placed the film with the superglue on it under the catch, and then quickly applied some pressure to it with some tweezers. Then i carefully cut the excess off with a pair of finely tipped nail scissors.
The result is that it now PULLS the screen/phone INTO the cover more by making the little black catch thicker. Not the opposite (paper method), which pushes the cover out, creating a further problem of adding more paper under the cover over time as the cover expands/loosens to compensate. Not to mention a possible grounding loss and resulting damage.
Hope this helps some people that have had multiple replacements or could not be bothered replacing for such a cosmetic issue. (Like me). It definitely works, just got to get your surgeon on and be accurate with your placement of the film.
Apply this to what ever side creaks the most, and bam its gone. Nice. Solid phone... again.
If anyone wants more specific details etc, im all ears.
Regards,
Matt.

will try it with an double side film ...
i mean a film that hold back cover and phone together ;-) i think doing paper in there will do damage with time

I contacted HTC and they sent me another/new one. No more creaking!

RaptorRVL said:
I contacted HTC and they sent me another/new one. No more creaking!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Back cover or whole phone?

I have the same problem too. And it just seems to get more and more "cracking"

Problems changing Digitizer.

I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG

TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.

Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.

TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.

glue for screen ?

Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot

Phil77560 said:
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a very annoying problem of the chinese displays that come with a frame or pre-applied tape.
The display+lcd assembly is too heavy to be held by any normal 2-sided tape (3M 300LSE for example).
After hours of checking how the original thing was made it turned out that it has a rubber-like gasket that is glued to the frame, which acts as bonding surface for the 2nd glue used to hold the digitizer to the frame.
These are all my own findings, sadly no pne is discussing this problem anywhere or at least I didn't find any.
I've used a transparent epoxy (65-70% resin ~30-35% oxidizer so the compound hardens slower).Use a wooden tooth pick to apply the glue on the frame, don't put to much of it, just a hair-thin line.
Put the screen on and press it well and be ready to clean off any glue that may come out of the edges. The epoxy is easy to clean until it's set, use isopropyl alcohol 99% or some dry contact cleaner with a cotton cloth or kitchen paper.
The drawback of using epoxy is once it's set, you won't be able to remove the screen from the frame by any viable means.This is not a problem tho, since you can buy the whole assembly, should you need to replace the screen again.
Good luck.

:good:
Thanks a lot for your tip.
I'm gonna look for epoxy and try to do as well as you
Thank a lot once more

same issue
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day

birikif said:
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
You should apply the glue in the frame, as close as possible to the outer rim and spread it as much as possible on the thin inner lining where the plastic of the frame and the glass make contact.
You can also use universal transparent glue, like JIP or Henkel... etc.These glues are a bit more liquidish and it takes more time to set properly, but they are also more flexible and you can also remove the display with heat, should you have the need to .
Sorry no videos available on this, but with a little effort and reading you'll be fine.

liveroy's advice is great. I've followed it with success, although the screen I bought has the dreaded phantom touch issue (cheap ebay job!) and will have to go back (this issue was apparent even before I glued it to the mid-frame).
Firstly I separated the screen from the mid-frame with two small suction cups, designed for removing halogen light bulbs, on the top and bottom of the glass. This worked well, but I had to use very gentle tugs to ensure I didn't tear the ribbon cable. Because the double-sided tape used was already separating, this was quite an easy part of the job.
I used Araldite 2-Tubes Standard Epoxy, because it has a very long cure time, which allowed me to work slowly. With the screen and mid-frame completely separate and cleaned up, I then threaded the screen's ribbon cable through the hole before glueing. The trickiest bit was putting the epoxy along the frame where the ribbon cable is; to do this I just wedged some folded paper between frame and screen while I layed down the epoxy. I guess I could have just done this bit first and avoided the need for a paper wedge (this was used to prevent prematurely sticking the screen to the frame before all the epoxy's down).
I used the screen's plastic film to protect the screen from the epoxy, and cleaned the excess epoxy with an old bottle of disk head cleaner I found lying about (smelt very alcoholly!) and cotton buds. I used some clothes pegs to clamp the screen to the frame, but I took them off after a few hours. Then I left it for a couple of days. The result was as good as I could have hoped for. I can see a little bit of the dried epoxy in the very narrow trenches between the mid-frame and glass, but this doesn't bother me. Way better than having light streaming through the sides, and it seems like a really solid grip! When in use and getting warm I could still see a bit of lift at the sides, but because it was glued there was absolutely no gap.
Going back to the original need for this fix -
On my phone I believe this is due to a warped, concave logic board, effectively peeling the glass away from the mid-frame when fitted. If it were totally flat then I doubt this would happen. I guess the aftermarket screen manufacturers didn't factor this in when they decided to use "weak" double-sided tape. I've also noticed that, with the new screen in place, the outer back shell of the phone, that you put on last, doesn't quite fit at the bottom like with the old screen - there is now a small a gap where the inner plastic housing is exposed. I think this is because the new mid-frame is straighter than the old, and the old shell has itself bent over time.

Hi,
I'm happy to found this thread. It's the second screen i replace on my Motorola Moto G4 Plus because of this; you can view my comment here : https://www.witrigs.com/oem-lcd-screen-assembly-for-motorola-moto-g4-plus-black#customer-reviews
I will try to use super glue on the top of my screen, hope it'll work. EDIT 20190122 : it worked (be careful to not add too much glue like i did : it was covering camera when pressing !)
Thanks