FINALLY GOT WIFI WORKING CHECK THIS TRICK OUT.
No need to use airplane mode trick.
Stock phone not rooted.
Download WIFI ANALYZER from market.
1)Once downloaded, open app.
2)hit menu button on phone and select AP list.
3)Do you see your router, press it and should take you to the market to download a program to connect to your router.
After it downloads that follow steps 1 and 2
After step 2 second time around.
4)If Yes press and hold until it says connect to FAKE AP , Or whatever your routers name is.
Enter your password.
5)hit connect and you should be connected now.
Turns your android phone into a Wi-Fi analyzer!!
Shows the Wi-Fi channels around you. Helps you to find a less crowded channel for your.
User Reviews
Excellent app for pinpointing the best channel to set up your WiFi router!!
by Daniel– May 5, 2011
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Brilliantly useful tool for reducing / eliminating wireless interference.
by Dane– May 5, 2011
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Wonderful tool for checking local WiFi. Managed to boost my signal by selecting a ...
by Robert– May 5, 2011
Wonderful tool for checking local WiFi. Managed to boost my signal by selecting a different channel from all the other local ones.
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I have also did the same things as the people that reviewed the app.
my favorite WiFi Analyzer is WiFiFoFum for Android. For PC I use InSSIDer (Inside Her, lol)
I've used it back in Windows Mobile days. The cool feature I like is the WiFi Radar, which is cool for finding wifi networks in relation to your position.
It has the same thing like showing various WiFi networks and their dedicated broadcast channels.
Channels isn't something people regularly consider when setting up WiFi networks but it is a huge issue. Having 2 wifi networks with overlapping frequencies will result in serious lag, timeouts, and connectivity issues.
To get technical there are 11 channels (plus some more for 5Ghz bands) but typically you'd have 11. Only Channels 1, 6, and 11 won't overlap each other.
Selecting 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, or 10 will be overlapping a channel somewhere (if you are in a rural area with lots of networks). In my router, I did a wifi analyzer around my house and everyone is using 1, 6, or 11... but the key is finding the less crowded channels with the least amount of signal.
Don't select a channel that has another signal with full bars or you will degrade both of them. When I first bought a house I moved in and had HORRIBLE wifi. I looked and my neighbors are both using Channel 6... and so was I. So I moved to 11 because it was less crowded and everything is great now.
This is standard WiFi 101 but most people just use the defaulted settings which usually is set to 6.
[EDIT]
We are talking about your WiFi Routers... not your Phones. The process above simply states that you should download a WiFi analyzer for testing purposes SO THAT you can program your router properly.
The stock wifi settings connects and disconnects, And never connects.
Thanks for that info +1.
It was a problem with phone not connecting to router. After I did the trick I found out it worked.
Instant wifi connection.
The stock wifi settings connects and disconnects, And never connects.
Yesterday was my first day with wifi working , After this method.
I made this post to help someone out, Suffering from the same problems I was having.
WIFI SETTING MENU
Inside there is a setting to connect to the router. That is the only my phone can connect.
hello
i use wifi through connectify virtual wifi from my pc
whenever my phone is idle or i dint use wifi for an hour or so the network becomes disabled ( i can use wifi on other devices) when i connect it shows connecting but does not connect and wifi becomes not in range even if i am standing next to my wifi router
and now its not even connecting to the wifi even if i reset my wifi ... i also have restarted my phone not working helllpppp !!!
and the wifi sleep policy is set to never
my device - nexus s i9020t
android 2.3.6 gingerbread
pls some1 help !!
Have you restarted your router?
I know you said everything else is working, but give it a try anyway.
I have the same problem...Please help
yes i restarted my router n every thing !! but i cant get it to work
I had a similar problem once, but luckily it was during a session of me messing with my router settings. I live in an apt building, TONS of other routers here, so the frequencies are all crowded.
Do this...
Get this app for your phone:
https://market.android.com/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Find the best channel available for your wireless network (you don't need to be connected to the internet or your router for this). In your router settings set your wifi to that channel (should be the least congested, the app will tell you which channel number). Hopefully that will help.
Also, if possible, set your wifi to only use 20MHz instead of 40MHz if it's in the 2.4GHz range, otherwise you're just causing the same problems for your neighbors. Be a good wireless neighbor!
Oh yeah, and update your router's firmware too, older firmwares are sometimes not fully compliant to wifi standards, it might help your connection issues! Also, use WPA2-AES encryption. WPA2 because it's the most secure right now (for personal uses anyway) and AES because most devices can do AES in hardware, so it's faster and uses less battery (plus I believe the higher end 802.11n speeds recommend that encryption for top speeds).
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
SixSixSevenSeven said:
how the hell do AT&T come into your wireless settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is AT&T's router. I have Uverse and this is the one they gave us.Motorola should be who i call if anyone but the problem is Microsoft's ..All others have no problem connecting
shEEEsh said:
I have all kinds of computers tablets and gadgets. I have had no problems connecting to my wireless network until the Microsoft Surface came along. My router is the Motorola NVG 510. It doesn't have many settings that can be changed. I am using WPA2 Personal AES and a password. The only way I can Connect My Surface to this network is to turn off encryption. l had the same problem with the Surface RT. .
Tried for 24 hours now to connect... AT & T Says the problem is Microsoft related and Microsoft blames AT & T . l GIVE UP!!. Returning the Surface and going to keep my Samsung Slate 7 . . . has Windows8- WiFi and 3G. . .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never had an issue with any form of encryption with the Surface RT - it's got the standard windows 8 wifi stack and connects to anything I throw at it, including WPA2/AES.
Not sure why you're having an issue, but you haven't given us much to go on for troubleshooting.
And getting a real router isn't possible?
Talon Pro said:
And getting a real router isn't possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently this (MOTOROLA NVG510) router is the only one I can use in my area with U-Verse.
Thats bull. Is it a combo router/modem? If so you should still be able to hook up a wireless router off of that if it has at least one ethernet port.
see thats what BT claimed when they installed BT infinity at my grandparents but we dont have the stock router running off of it
Thanks for the suggestions. I returned the Surface. I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else. On the other hand. Annoys me that every gadget I own (and there are many) connects with no problem EXCEPT the surface.
diane
Your router is old. Something is probably interfering with the Surface Pro's connectivity. Your SP's wifi card isn't busted if it can connect without encryption. It shouldn't have a problem. I'd suggest ditching the modem's wifi and buying a router and using that instead for wifi and leave the modem alone.
99% sure it's a setting in your router that's causing you to not be able to connect a new device through wifi.
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
Trig0r said:
First port of call when having wifi issues is to remove all encryption/security settings and have it as a fully open network, if that works then slowly add security/encryption until you find out where it falls over, worse case scenario is a network that appears to be open but uses MAC address filtering to keep people out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the problem was for sure the modem. There are no settings to tweak... It's gotta be the worst modem on the planet-but then U.verse doesn't feel any faster than my old ATT DSL connection. I asked to have my DSL back and ATT said that was not an option. ATT told me this modern is the only one for my area. Maybe it is time I looked into Brighthouse. I am sure there is a way around that modem but in my frustration I returned the Surface. Very sure I will buy another Surface . . I still have my Samsung Slate 7 with Windows 8... Another plus is it has a 3G connection. the more I use Windows 8 the more I like it, wish the Slate was a bit smaller.
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Wireless encryption is done router side rather than modem side. You can use the ISP's modem and the connect it to an aftermarket router without issue. Its impossible for the ISP to prevent that. If its a combo modem and router then it is still possible to do.
All routers must have settings, unless you mean it has limited settings.
I've lucked out personally. My ISP's free router isn't the best on the planet but as a freeby is great. Full range of settings. Its a combo modem/router in one but I haven't had issues with that and it is perfectly happy for me to plug other routers into it (which I did once as an ethernet extension cable of sorts, otherwise my other routers are inferior) or according to a friend who used to be on the same ISP it quite happily connects to other modens and acts as a router perfectly fine still.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
>We already tried to tell him that and he wouldnt listen.
OP's name is Diane.
Secondly, as posted in the OP, the device is a Motorola NVG 510. A 10-second lookup would show that it's a combined ADSL2+router, and it's not a simple matter of swapping out a router. Combined-function devices are SOP for leased models, since it saves the company money over having two boxes.
http://google.com/search?q=Motorola+NVG+510
It's a Surface problem. The user shouldn't be expected to mess with things like router settings and learn to be a geek. The device in question is obviously in popular use, and it's up to MS to get it right. The OP did the correct thing in returning the Surface.
However, for those with more tech savvy, the above search produces this help page for the modem+router,
http://www.ron-berman.com/2011/11/24/motorola-nvg510-help-page-for-att-u-verse-users/
which has both the manual and more importantly, a FAQ to troubleshoot connection issues, and links to more appropriate forums to ask further questions on this particular topic.
As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection. Yes your ISP's router will still be broadcasting but so will the new 3rd party one, you just connect to that. This is a configuration I have tested with a BT homehub and some ****ty Netgear.
To access the new routers settings, unplug it from the ISPs router first and then access the settings in the normal way. or if you can find the new local IP for the additional router you can use that.
>As I said, even on a combo unit you can use a different router. As long as the new router can recieve internet from any other device via ethernet all you do is connect it to the ISPs router. It will then share that connection.
Either the new router has to be reconfig'ed into an AP, or the old router needs to be disabled. Can't have both routers active. Likewise, the old wifi needs to be disabled, or the new one reconfigured that they don't conflict. Regardless, it's not plug and play. Either or both units would need configuration.
The household Internet router is the single most critical piece of equipment there is, because if the user messes up, s/he loses Internet access ENTIRELY and access to any further help. Without local help, that may mean several days' downtime and an expensive bill for onsite repair. I would NEVER, EVER tell a non-tech user to reconfigure his/her router, especially when the person said "I don't know enough about routers and modems to install anything else or even how to buy something else."
Everyone here has good intentions and want to help. Then, the first thing to helping is to listen to what is said, and gauge the person's comfort level with tech. No one even bothered to check up on the OP's router model.
The OP has a stable, working setup. Anything that jeopardizes that setup is bad advice, not unless you are willing to foot the onsite service cost for the person. The preferred solution is to remove the known-problem component, which in this case is the Surface.
PS: A long shot is to go into the Surface's Device Manager, select the Properties tab of the wifi card, and muck around with the advanced settings (if there are any).
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
That said, if you wanted port forwarding and such to work smoothly, it *would* be best to turn off DHCP and NAT on the inner router. However, that's not necessary to simply get Internet access via the router.
GoodDayToDie said:
You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which is precisely what I originally said.
I have daisy chained a cheap as **** netgear router to my BT homehub without any setting changes at all. I was actually using it as an ethernet extension cable pretty much, I didnt have a single cable long enough so I plugged one between the homehub/main router and the netgear and one between the netgear and a raspberry pi. Would you look at that, my laptop can connect to the netgear and get internet access from it, the pi also connects via its ethernet port perfectly.
My grandparents use a set of homeplugs, how do they connect? daisy chaining.
One of my mates has 3 ethernet devices in one room but only one LAN port drilled into the wall (he had an electrician out once to actually have LAN sockets fitted in a few rooms). Solution: cheap wireless router connected to the LAN port in the wall. Other devices connected to the router. Router had 6 ports so he still has 2 left over. Devices connect to it fine. Originally it was default settings but he has since gone and disabled the routers wifi as he doesnt use it.
That said. I came across a linksys unit once which refused to be used as an access point of any kind. But that was only once.
>You can totally daisy-chain routers using their default settings. Not sure why you would think otherwise...
Having nested routers (ie segmenting the network) is a prescription for myriad network problems in the hands of a non-tech user. Again, listen to what the OP said, rather than assume everyone is a geek who knows what DHCP and NAT means, let alone how to change them.
Even if the OP can get the new router configured and running properly, the potential for problem remains. When ISP service goes down, the ISP tech will remote troubleshoot the leased equipment (the old router), since that's the ISP's responsibility. With user equipment attached, troubleshooting responsibility passes on to the user, which the OP has stated in no uncertain terms that she's not capable of.
The point isn't to get Internet access. The OP already has Internet access. The point is to get the Surface to connect to the network, but NOT AT THE EXPENSE of adding networking complications that the OP can't handle.
>I have daisy chained...
This suffices for simple Internet access, until you run into programs or devices that break because of the multiple redirections. I doubt UPNP/DLNA works on nested NATs. Ditto discovery. Devices/periphs on one network segment won't be able to connect to those on another segment.
The wifi will work, but given that most 2.4GHz wifi default to channel 1 or 6, it will likely conflict with the old wifi and work POORLY when both are active.
Hi there, I've had a lot of help through this forum in using my Android tablet without registering, so I thought this could be the best place to ask a question that's beginning to wreck my head.
I have a Versus 7 Touchpad, and while I know it's just a rebranded something or other made in China, it's actually a decent tablet for the price of €100. Anyway, recently I installed the TPlink TL-WA730RE wireless repeater at home and just have had no luck in getting the tablet to connect to the repeater whatsoever. My android phone (Xperia T), my wife's Nokia E5 and my Compaq PC all connect to the repeater fine and can browse the web/network no problem. However, the tablet just says 'connecting' (to the network) but then reverts back to 'saved, secured with WPA' etc. I know it's trying to connect because if I log onto the repeater through my PC every few minutes the MAC address of the tablet appears along with the status of 'STA -ASSOC', which I think means that the unit is trying to associate with the repeater, but then it just disappears. It may be worth noting at this point that the tablet connects to my TPlink TL-WR841N wireless router running DD-WRT no problem.
I've tried almost everything I can think of, like 'forgetting' the network and reconnecting, ensuring MAC address filtering is disabled, trying static instead of DHCP, resetting my router and repeater etc etc. I even tried apps such as 'wifi strongest signal' from the app store which connects you to the strongest access point in your house if you're using a repeater and walking around. The latest thing I did was to install CM10 on the rooted tablet and everything works apart from the wifi with the repeater, so it wasn't a fault with the original image. Also, the tablet was running ICS 4.0.4 I think, which was the same version of Android as my Xperia T, which connects perfectly.
The last thing I can think of trying is updating the repeater firmware, or installing DD-WRT on it also, but I'm loathe to do that seeing as all of my other equipment is working fine. Other than that maybe there is some sort of updated wifi driver I could try for the tablet itself??
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Just incase anyone else has similar problems with this or any other android tablet, I managed to solve the problem after weeks of headaches.
The problem was that my TPLink wifi repeater's channel width was set to 'auto', where I had other options of 20mhz and 40mhz. Once I paired these with my router -i.e- both the router and the repeater were both set to a wireless channel of 20mhz, my tablet worked perfectly fine. Obviously some equipment can handle the difference in channel width, just not the Versus 7 Touchpad wifi.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Hi there,
I have a Pixel 3 and my laptop randomly disconnects from the wifi hotspot, when I am moving through areas with high wireless congestion. I used a Redmi Note 4 with LineageOS before and did not have that problem. It only happens when I am on the train and I also see lots of messages like this in the logs of the laptop:
wlp2s0: CTRL-EVENT-SIGNAL-CHANGE above=1 signal=-38 noise=9999 txrate=650000
And especially this one:
wlp2s0: CTRL-EVENT-CHANNEL-SWITCH freq=5200 ht_enabled=1 ch_offset=-1 ch_width=80 MHz cf1=5210 cf2=0
wlp2s0: CTRL-EVENT-CHANNEL-SWITCH freq=2457 ht_enabled=1 ch_offset=0 ch_width=20 MHz cf1=2457 cf2=0
Often times, the laptop seems to be able to follow the channel changes, but sometimes it doesn't. I continuously ping the ip of the Pixel 3 (which, btw. switches, every time I activate the hotspot, within the 192.168.43 subnet, I had 192.168.43.81, 192.168.43.35, 192.168.43.60, ...). The laptop still shows it's connected, but the ping to the phone fails.
Those frequency changes even jumps bands. Initially I would be in the 5Ghz band, but the Pixel 3 would switch to the 2.4Ghz band during operation. Presumably, because the 5Ghz band is too busy. I believe the disconnects (which aren't really detected by the network manager of the laptop) are connected to the channel changes, since I usually see a message for a channel change in the logs around the time I lose connectivity.
The options in the hotspot dialogue are very limited. Thus I was able to try all combinations, except for turning off encryption.
I am currently using Android 9 Pie, since we are getting 10 Q soon, maybe it will be better.
The laptop is running Debian GNU/Linux 10, but the wifi chip is fairly old (Intel Corporation Wireless 7265) and well supported, so I don't expect that to be the issue. I am also thinking about filing a bug with network-manager for failing to detect the loss of connectivity, but since I did not have the issue with the Redmi Note, I am also looking at the Pixel 3 as a potential way to fix this issue for me.
Are there more options hidden or other accessible, such as turning off the channel switches
I am now running Android 10 and still have the same issue, unfortunately. I also presented this issue over at the Google support forums:
https://support.google.com/pixelphone/thread/14799895?hl=en
So far, no solution.