I'm looking at buying this tablet just for reading (PDFs, web content), 3-4 hour periods. Is the screen good for reading, or will it tire my eyes quickly (like the iPad 1, 2)?
Not talking about white balance or contrast, more about the screen resolution (though this has 170 dpi over 130 on the old iPads).
If the ipad 10 inch screen tire you out quickly then I think the 7 inch tab 2 won't make things better, and I doubt better screen intensity (170 ppi or dpi) have any effect than overall look and sharpness of the images.
Altough in my personal opinion, reading and browsing in this tab 2 is far better than my previous experience in 4 inch x10i
Definitely giving it a thumbs up
So I got one yesterday.
It took me a good half a day to get used to the screen, but it's always like that for me when it comes to Samsung screens (no idea why).
At first the screen looks and feels pixelated, but you get used to it pretty fast. Not the brightest display either. PDFs look pretty bad on Polaris Office, but decent on Adobe Reader. Small text IS hard to read, so either get used to zooming-in or reading in landscape mode.
Kindle (app) works and looks great.
Other than that, Chrome works good, it has a hard time detecting when I tap the Omnibar, closing tabs is a bit slow and sometimes the text gets (and stays) blurry when zooming (haven't tried the default browser). Opera works fine.
The device reports about 4gb of available storage, plenty for books. Battery life is good (about 5-6 hrs of WiFi surfing), will know more when I use it more.
berofx said:
I'm looking at buying this tablet just for reading (PDFs, web content), 3-4 hour periods. Is the screen good for reading, or will it tire my eyes quickly (like the iPad 1, 2)?
Not talking about white balance or contrast, more about the screen resolution (though this has 170 dpi over 130 on the old iPads).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I prefer the 7 in tablets over the 10 in variety because I can hold it with one hand comfortably. Also because I have bifocals, I like to hold it closer to my face so I don't rest it on my knee like you might with a 10 in one.
Sent from my NexusHD2 using Tapatalk 2
Hello everyone
This you must consider just some help and ideas based on my experience with 3D devices - not that I have such a great experience. I own a 3D camera, the FujiFilm RealPix 3D W1 and this phone.
You are free - and I hope that will do it, to contribute with your own ideas and photos.
First thing first... As in normal photography, not take shots against light sources, as sun and other powerfull light sources. Against the sun, lasers you could end with your camera ruined because of the too much light on the sensor - consider that it gets focused, like a magnifying glass...
Also in 3D avoid taking photos with flash. The flash is not powerfull enough and do not distribute even light for all two camera, so in some way you'll get the left photo slightly brighter than the right photo and when is all put together you might get a ghost effect.
Do not shoot on object perpendicular on the cameras because when is viewed in 3D you'll get a very annoying and disturbing effect that you'll hit your eyes and brain like a cannonball ' remember that °it is all in your head° - the 3D effect I mean.
Also do not shoot object that do "split" in half the 3D image - gives the same annoying effect.
The distance from the subject is recommanded between 2 and 5 meters. Below 2 meters you'll get your cannonball, above 5 meters the 3D effect is lost.
Also is recommanded to take photos of subjects with different depths, like flowers, because you'll get a very obvious and good 3D effect. Do not shoot a subject that fills up all the photo with one color, like a table painted in yellow.
Pay attention at parallax - a wrong adjustment and you'll get ghost pictures. If you're forced to take a photo of different subjets, on different depths in same photo, hitting the right parallax is a little harder than usual. I choose the center of the photo, in which all subjets are clear, that I crop the photo, leaving the ghost effect (which in this case is on the margins) out.
3D mostly means contours and coloured subjects, so you have to seek always some contrast between different subjects in same photos.
These are the main things I can think of right now.
Hope that you'll find them helpful. Please let me know what you think.
LE: talking to TylDurden (you'll find his query later this thread - please feel free to help if you can) I reminded of some tips that first time I forgot to mention. here they are
NEW TIP (which I forgot about it) - When you're gonna shoot in 3D mode just don't make a full press of the onscreen button, press it just a little shorter in time in order to get the real preview of the photo. In this preview you'll see how the final photo will be. And if you get some ghost image just adjust the parallax and try to get all the objects or most of them without ghost trails or sides.
Another TIP - set your screen brightness at maximum level because if you have it reduces you might not notice ghost effects
Another TIP - the focus area works better if is set on center not on border - don't ask why but I do see a difference.
And most important TIP - try, try, try. Remember every settings used to take the photos and compare same photos of the same object but with different settings and see which ones are working for you.
Thanks
Thanks for the tips, are very helpful.
Thanks for the tips.
I have learned that to get something to jump from the phone towards the viewer, you must keep an entire object within the picture.
Take ie. a picture of a face/head, it can be on 1m, just keep the entire head inside the frame. Don't come too close, it'll cause the headaches/canonball effect BigBadSheep already talked about, but 2m is way too much. 0.8m or 0.5m can work a lot! As long as you keep the object within the frame.
I stumbled upon this when my son kept his icecream close to the camera with his hand. When we watched the photo the icecream was really jumping out of it.
I have tested this a lot, by moving the object very close to the camera or partly out of the frame. Just play with it to find the best result.
3D pictures with water are very cool as well!
I have made many 3D pictures with people jumping into the water. Especially if you dare to keep the camera quite close to the action, it gives awesome effects!
Timing is very difficult with the O3D b/c there's about 1sec between pressing the button and the picture actually being taken.
I started to press the button 1sec before the expected water bomb, that works quite good! I now have about 30 very very cool pictures of my kids smashing into the water!
I'm more and more leaning towards favouring 3D pictures above 3D movies.
Shooting 3D movies is very hard and the image is shaking very easily which becomes too tiresome to watch. Filming in 3D is very difficult. Making pictures is cool though!
And if you watch them on a good passive(!) 3D TV it's even better!
(please all: never buy an active 3D TV, I have an active 3D TV myself and I use it less and less. the effect is so bad during daylight and the on/off button is very tedious, especially the switching all the time if you're moving through pictures etc. passive 3D tvs work perfect during daylight, never the strobing effect. cheap glasses. no batteries needed for glasses.
My father/sister has a passive TV and I really regret having an active TV. Surely, the 3D is good and all, but compared to the passive (LG/Philips) TV of my father/sister, passive is just the way to go.
Don't believe those who claim that active gives a full HD while passive doesn't. It's bollocks. At first b/c the strobing effect is far worse then even the supposed half Full HD effect could be. Secondly b/c both active and passive offer a half Full HD effect. Active just closes your left and right eyes half of the time while passive hids half the image from your left and right eye)
Rho'd Berth said:
Don't believe those who claim that active gives a full HD while passive doesn't. It's bollocks. At first b/c the strobing effect is far worse then even the supposed half Full HD effect could be. Secondly b/c both active and passive offer a half Full HD effect. Active just closes your left and right eyes half of the time while passive hids half the image from your left and right eye)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.
Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.
Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.
They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.
This halving of resolution on passive 3D is why some sets now go higher than 1080p so that when displayed passively the video is same resolution as an active set although most sets still don't do this.
http://hometheater.about.com/od/tel...ve-Polarized-Vs-Active-Shutter-3d-Glasses.htm
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
As an owner of a 3D active
mistermentality said:
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.
Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.
Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.
They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.
This halving of resolution on passive 3D is why some sets now go higher than 1080p so that when displayed passively the video is same resolution as an active set although most sets still don't do this.
http://hometheater.about.com/od/tel...ve-Polarized-Vs-Active-Shutter-3d-Glasses.htm
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I must say that still the active is the way to be, even if now there are some TV with passive 3D that makes a good picture. I own the LG 50PX950N TV set, the first with THX certified 3D. Always the LG. But, as it happens always, LG pulled out from the hat the 3D passive which is advertised as better as the active ones, from here seeing the in all company, on all branches, is the philosophy: you bought it? Thanks alot sucker! because they made these passive one 7 months after the shouted out: you've made the greatest 3D active TV ever!
But still , as stated, I think that active is still the way.
And, in another news, I would like to write about how to connect the phone to the TV in such manner that you get 3D directly out of the box. I had some time to figure this out.
First you need the HDMI 1.4 cable. Then, from the HDMI settings you must force it on 1080p (50Hz or 60 HZ - I think it makes no difference, seeing that now all TVs can make both frequencies). Leaving in automatic mode it just takes the native resolution of the screen, which is 480x800 and in this mode you wont't get the 3D effect, nor the HD videos played.
Next, about the 3D pictures, will be a tutorial on how to make them "universal", meaning being able to display them on every display, with red-cyan 3 mode.
BigBadSheep said:
Hello everyone
This you must consider just some help and ideas based on my experience with 3D devices - not that I have such a great experience. I own a 3D camera, the FujiFilm RealPix 3D W1 and this phone.
You are free - and I hope that will do it, to contribute with your own ideas and photos.
First thing first... As in normal photography, not take shots against light sources, as sun and other powerfull light sources. Against the sun, lasers you could end with your camera ruined because of the too much light on the sensor - consider that it gets focused, like a magnifying glass...
Also in 3D avoid taking photos with flash. The flash is not powerfull enough and do not distribute even light for all two camera, so in some way you'll get the left photo slightly brighter than the right photo and when is all put together you might get a ghost effect.
Do not shoot on object perpendicular on the cameras because when is viewed in 3D you'll get a very annoying and disturbing effect that you'll hit your eyes and brain like a cannonball ' remember that °it is all in your head° - the 3D effect I mean.
Also do not shoot object that do "split" in half the 3D image - gives the same annoying effect.
The distance from the subject is recommanded between 2 and 5 meters. Below 2 meters you'll get your cannonball, above 5 meters the 3D effect is lost.
Also is recommanded to take photos of subjects with different depths, like flowers, because you'll get a very obvious and good 3D effect. Do not shoot a subject that fills up all the photo with one color, like a table painted in yellow.
Pay attention at parallax - a wrong adjustment and you'll get ghost pictures. If you're forced to take a photo of different subjets, on different depths in same photo, hitting the right parallax is a little harder than usual. I choose the center of the photo, in which all subjets are clear, that I crop the photo, leaving the ghost effect (which in this case is on the margins) out.
3D mostly means contours and coloured subjects, so you have to seek always some contrast between different subjects in same photos.
These are the main things I can think of right now.
Hope that you'll find them helpful. Please let me know what you think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also use to have the fuji 3D w1 by the way update the firmware it will improve too much, I sell it and got they W3 and it's waaaayyy better. Thanks for the tips man.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
mistermentality said:
Sorry but that is incorrect. I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
As for passive and active being half quality you seem to misunderstand how they work because only passive 3D is half resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, both eyes receive half the Full HD resolution, together that's Full HD.
Passive tv puts both images on tv together and the glasses block out half the image from each eye so right eye and left eye see half the picture.
Active tv doesn't cover each eye up as you say but instead sends the whole picture for each view to each eye very quickly rather than just hide half of it as passive does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Active shutter is closing one eye after another eye. All the time only 1 of your eyes can see the screen. The other one is closed / blackened.
The TV is showing first the left eye frame and then the right eye frame. While the left eye frame is showed, the right eye is blackened, and the other way around.
They don't just feed half of what's on screen to each eye but instead show the full hd image to each so you get full quality not half. It is also what causes the strobing that some people experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I said, they feed the full image to each eye half of the time.
I have an active shutter tv and no strobing problems at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.
When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.
It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.
Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.
Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.
We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.
Rho'd Berth said:
Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.
When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.
It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.
Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.
Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.
We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to agree with everything of the above. I also have an active 3D Samsung TV and especially during the daylight there are problems. Not to mention the extremely expensive 3D glasses.
Last weekend a friend of mine who just purchased a passive 3D LG TV (with 8 FREE glasses included) had a BBQ party of 6 people. I took some 3D videos with my O3D and played them on his TV. All 6 people at the same time could enjoy my 3D videos on his TV under broad daylight. With my TV this could be impossible.
Rho'd Berth said:
No, both eyes receive half the Full HD resolution, together that's Full HD.
Active shutter is closing one eye after another eye. All the time only 1 of your eyes can see the screen. The other one is closed / blackened.
The TV is showing first the left eye frame and then the right eye frame. While the left eye frame is showed, the right eye is blackened, and the other way around.
That's what I said, they feed the full image to each eye half of the time.
Watch a 3D movie in full day light and you will have strobing problems, unless your glasses cover your eyes entirely.
When ie. your left eye is blackened by the glasses, then there's still light coming in from the sides of your glasses. It's not so much the TV that's strobing but the light from other sources.
It's a fact that watching active 3D during daylight just plainly sucks.
Did you ever watch passive 3D TV? Did you ever compare? Or are you just defending your own TV, like most people do.
Like I said, I have an active 3D TV myself, a very good rated Samsung. Compared to even the cheap Philips passive 3D TV of my father my TV sucks in 3D. Not during the night if we're wathcing a good movie. Then it's ok. But the entire viewing experience is more then just the dark evening in the winter. IT's also the turning on of the glasses, the replacing the batteries, the fact that the glasses are that expensive. The fact that my Laptop 3D shutter glasses are damaged and also cost $100. The fact that the glasses are heavy, etc.
We've watching vacation pictures on a passive TV with 8 people among with 4 kids. No need to turn on the glasses for the kids and some adults. Imagine doing the same on active TV..... and then I'm not even taking the extra $600 for glasses in account.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you just pointed out the active glasses send the full image to each eye alternating between left and right but both eyes do still see full hd in both eyes because the two images are at full resolution.
They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.
As for expensive glasses, you can buy them for under fifteen pound in uk and rechargeables are only twenty something pound and neither are heavy, I watched the olympics for three hours no problem at all last night.
I do need to explain regarding strobing, I was referring to the 3D image not strobing.
You are right that light sources will flicker, but I don't watch much 3D tv during the day so for me it isn't an issue as I prefer watching films with the lights off but yes you are right on that.
This review of both at http://m.cnet.com/news/active-3d-vs-passive-3d-whats-better/57437344?ds=1 does a good job of explaining what I mean even though the author prefers passive they do admit active has higher resolution.
In a few years I will probably get a passive set as by then 4K passive sets will be higher res than current active ones but for now I prefer a higher resolution image but each format has benefits.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
Dave,
So you admit that there is strobing of light (not the TV) that is annoying. You're just saying that it doesn't matter b/c you don't watch TV during daylight anyway. So let's keep it honest: there is a problem, and you can't watch 3D movies during the summer and much of the spring.
They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And again you claim that you see Full HD to both eyes at the same time.
No, that's not true, all the time 1 of your eyes is covered. Never do you see a Full HD image to both your eyes at the same time.
I'm not saying that passive is better a picturing a Full HD image, it's just using a different technique.
Passive 3D: Both your eyes get half a Full HD image all the time
Active 3D: Both your eyes get a Full HD image half the time
In my opinion the quality is very very good on both active and passive 3D.
The reason I favour passive is b/c of the:
- strobing during daylight
- annoying expensive glasses
And so far everybody who has experienced both Passive and Active 3D TV agrees with me.
Only people who read up the theory and never saw a passive 3D TV disagree.
Robert
mistermentality said:
As you just pointed out the active glasses send the full image to each eye alternating between left and right but both eyes do still see full hd in both eyes because the two images are at full resolution.
They do not half the resolution at all, and if you have an active tv you can see that yourself because you will see both images at the same time but full res. Now do that on a passive set and you'll notice the difference.
As for expensive glasses, you can buy them for under fifteen pound in uk and rechargeables are only twenty something pound and neither are heavy, I watched the olympics for three hours no problem at all last night.
I do need to explain regarding strobing, I was referring to the 3D image not strobing.
You are right that light sources will flicker, but I don't watch much 3D tv during the day so for me it isn't an issue as I prefer watching films with the lights off but yes you are right on that.
This review of both at http://m.cnet.com/news/active-3d-vs-passive-3d-whats-better/57437344?ds=1 does a good job of explaining what I mean even though the author prefers passive they do admit active has higher resolution.
In a few years I will probably get a passive set as by then 4K passive sets will be higher res than current active ones but for now I prefer a higher resolution image but each format has benefits.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.
For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?
Check the chart here:
http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
I have 42" lg tv and i can definitely see the difference between 720p and 1080p from 2,5m or so. Clearly see it for example in ps3 xmb is in 1080p vs xbox dash which is always in 720p just upscaled. Or when playing sacred 2(one of the few games that run in full hd) in xbox try to set 1080p play and then set 720p and it will look like **** compared to 1080p. So full hd matters. Not to mention difference in movies.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda app-developers app
xtrustkillx said:
I have 42" lg tv and i can definitely see the difference between 720p and 1080p from 2,5m or so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not surprising considering your TV size and the your viewing distance. If you look at the chart, for 42" TV the 2.5m you're sitting it's actually the upper limit for distinguishing between 720p and 1080p (the actual range is 1.6-2.5m for a 42" TV). But if you sit 3-4m away, you can't distinguish between 720p and 1080p.
And that's for a normal 2D picture which uses as a source sharp graphics and fonts of PS3 games. If you watch instead 3D video the differences between 1080p and 720p are even less apparent considering the slightly darker image and the glasses.
Rho'd Berth said:
Dave,
So you admit that there is strobing of light (not the TV) that is annoying. You're just saying that it doesn't matter b/c you don't watch TV during daylight anyway. So let's keep it honest: there is a problem, and you can't watch 3D movies during the summer and much of the spring.
And again you claim that you see Full HD to both eyes at the same time.
No, that's not true, all the time 1 of your eyes is covered. Never do you see a Full HD image to both your eyes at the same time.
I'm not saying that passive is better a picturing a Full HD image, it's just using a different technique.
Passive 3D: Both your eyes get half a Full HD image all the time
Active 3D: Both your eyes get a Full HD image half the time
In my opinion the quality is very very good on both active and passive 3D.
The reason I favour passive is b/c of the:
- strobing during daylight
- annoying expensive glasses
And so far everybody who has experienced both Passive and Active 3D TV agrees with me.
Only people who read up the theory and never saw a passive 3D TV disagree.
Robert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive posted two links which explain clearly that active gives full hd to each eye and passive does not.
I could post a hundred but you will still insist I'm mistaken or lying.
If you can't see that a full hd image to each eye (your eye combines both hd images to make one 3D image so it is a full hd 3D image) is better than half hd I then nothing I say and no links I post will convince you and this thread will just become a kind of back and forth argument that goes nowhere so I will agree to disagree.
And yes passive is better except for resolution, as I explained when you said strobing I was referring to what a lot of people do when saying that which is that the tv image strobes and disagreeing about that.
So yes passive is good but it is still correct that for resolution per eye active remains better for now. That doesn't make active better in general of course but in that specific area it does.
And of course people will still argue that I'm incorrect or have never seen passive 3D etc so I'm going to agree that we can disagree.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------
botson71 said:
No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.
For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?
Check the chart here:
http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. I chose active for the higher picture resolution primarily as I watch most of my films in the dark so any flickering of daylight isn't a problem for me. And because I like the tv of course.
Dave
( http://www.google.com/producer/editions/CAownKXmAQ/bigfatuniverse )
Sent from my LG P920 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the 3D Photo tips. I don't do a whole lot of 3D Photography since I suck at it, maybe these tips will change that and I'll get back into it.
Also just to chime in on the whole Active vs Passive debate I have a 23" LG Passive set and even a passive set with glasses I have a hell of a time finding the sweet spot. I thought a set with glasses wouldn't have that problem like our phones do. Obviously our phones have a parralax barrier and that's why you have to find the sweet spot but with my LG set and Passive glasses I still have to nail a vertical sweet spot. I can't be too high or too low. This also effects how close I can sit to the set. If I sit too far away than I will get ghosting on either the top or the bottom of the screen. I can shift myself higher or lower and make one of them go away but the only way to fix them both is to simply move myself closer to the screen. My friend has an Active set and we never have any of these issues with his set. It's in his basement and is pitch black in broad daylight so he's never had to worry about bright daylight. The cheap glasses of the Passive set are nice but the sweet spot is such a hassle.
Maybe someone can point out what I'm doing wrong and I can have a much better 3D experience with my Passive set.
Well...glad to be helpful
TylDurden said:
Thanks for the 3D Photo tips. I don't do a whole lot of 3D Photography since I suck at it, maybe these tips will change that and I'll get back into it.
Also just to chime in on the whole Active vs Passive debate I have a 23" LG Passive set and even a passive set with glasses I have a hell of a time finding the sweet spot. I thought a set with glasses wouldn't have that problem like our phones do. Obviously our phones have a parralax barrier and that's why you have to find the sweet spot but with my LG set and Passive glasses I still have to nail a vertical sweet spot. I can't be too high or too low. This also effects how close I can sit to the set. If I sit too far away than I will get ghosting on either the top or the bottom of the screen. I can shift myself higher or lower and make one of them go away but the only way to fix them both is to simply move myself closer to the screen. My friend has an Active set and we never have any of these issues with his set. It's in his basement and is pitch black in broad daylight so he's never had to worry about bright daylight. The cheap glasses of the Passive set are nice but the sweet spot is such a hassle.
Maybe someone can point out what I'm doing wrong and I can have a much better 3D experience with my Passive set.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But again I'll be talking from personal experience. Before I buy my TV set - a 50 inches LG PX950N, I was searching on all forums for every kind of info. And at that moment I've reached the conclusion, and is also recommended, that in order to enjoy a real 3D effect your TV set has to be 40 inches or bigger, especially for passive, which at that moment - I'm talking March 2012, wasn't so much accepted. And because my living room isn't big enough I went for a 50 inches Plasma TV set for three reasons - 3D effect (with all those criterias to obey to - size and active) but also that the TV must give full satisfaction in 2D mode HiDef and SD. And the third one as I had this offer - TV set and 3D camera (and here's another story to tell) I bought all just for 1000 euros (plus 40 euros for SD HC card for the 3D camera). Overall a good affair.
Now what can I tell in your case: maybe isn't you that don't get the perfect photo maybe it's just the size of your 3D TV set. And surely it's the passive mode which still is not a real option.
NEW TIP (which I forgot about it) - When you're gonna shoot in 3D mode just don't make a full press of the onscreen button, press it just a little shorter in time in order to get the real preview of the photo. In this preview you'll see how the final photo will be. And if you get some ghost image just adjust the parallax and try to get all the objects or most of them without ghost trails or sides.
Another TIP - set your screen brightness at maximum level because if you have it reduces you might not notice ghost effects
Another TIP - the focus area works better if is set on center not on border - don't ask why but I do see a difference.
And most important TIP - try, try, try. Remember every settings used to take the photos and compare same photos of the same object but with different settings and see which ones are working for you.
Thanks guys for reading and replying to my posts.
You are right
botson71 said:
No matter which one of the 3D types is better the full HD resolution shouldn't be the main factor for choosing your 3D TV, at least for the majority of the people. That's because the average human eye could fully spot the 1080p only when it's very close to the TV.
For example, with an 40-inch TV, you need to sit closer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for the full HD resolution to become apparent. How many people watch TV that close?
Check the chart here:
http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
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But just to make fun out of it - the human brain, let me say that I can spot the 1080p from very far away, and I'm talking something like 5 meters - my living room is long 6,7 m and 4 m wide, and when I'm eating between me and TV (50 inches plasma TV set) is this distance. And I notice better 3D effect than my wife. But my wife is seeing more colors - mixtures, shades and variations than I do. So go figure how we're set in my house.
Great thread. Worth a bump for those like me who are new here.
Sent from my LG-SU870 using xda app-developers app
There is another post on this phone here, but it's not a review, just a post with stats and a link to buy it... I've got this phone now with me, brought it for my wife who is always complaining of a low battery. So I thought this might do the trick since it has double the capacity of most mobiles. Let's find out if it's worth the $200 (aprox) I paid for it.
Unboxing and hands on video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYA9Xrv75aQ
Video review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umgMFb5l3QY
Design:
The Elephone P5000 is made of plastic, although it looks like it has an outer metal frame I think it's just hard plastic made to look like metal. There are two sim slots, two speaker grills on the bottom and the left side there is the volume up and down rocker with the power button. On the top you'll find the 3.5mm jack, mirco usb port and nothing else, no IR blaster like my Note 4.
The feel of the phone is good, it's a tad on the heavy side thanks to that large battery it has. The rear battery cover is a matte black and is fairly resistant to finger prints.
The screen is one of the best features of the phone, it's 440 PPI so very sharp. But it's also clear and bright with good view angles. It looks like the HTC one super lcd type of screen. It has no gap between the glass and the lcd which is good to see, so it looks to be a laminated display.
Photos of the Elephone P5000:
Performance:
The phone has an octa core CPU, the MediaTek MT6592 which can hit a peak speed of 1.7GHZ, it has 2GB of ram. On the GPU side of things there is a Mali 450 MP4 GPU, which is still an okay GPU, but lacks the newest Open GL sport.
Below is the 3Dmark score of 4819, Antutu benchmark is 31k see video here Over the phone is snappy and I experienced no lag or stutters anywhere. The UI is nice a quick and doesn't look to bad at all for a stock launcher. Real Racing ran without a hitch and so did Dead Trigger 2.
Features:
The P5000 comes with a finger print scanner, it works just like my Note 4 and is the swipe type. You have to swipe your fingers and register them. I found it works well, just like my Note 4. Sometimes it will miss a swipe, normally because it did it to fast or at a funny angle.
There is also a gesture feature, with things like double tap to turn on the screen. And there is sim management for when you're using dual sims.
Camera:
The front facing camera is 8MP and while that's a lot of pixels for a front facing camera it's of average quality, will do the job for skype and other video chat apps.
The rear facing camera is a 16MP shooter, I found the image quality to be nice in good lighting, but my unit has a blurry image on the right side of all photos. Seems to be a lens fault or hardware sensor issue maybe? Not good. Videos are in 1080p, and are fine, but the 3gp file format used is very good and leads to videos being overly compressed and pixelated.
Here are some sample images from the rear camera, if you zoom in notice that the right side is a little blurred?
Over all the camera I find is really disappointing considering mine has a defect blur on the right of the sensor. If you buy one you might get lucky and have a good camera. There is HDR mode, if you have a look at the photo of the castle tower house, the first one is without HDR and the second is with it. All other photos are with the scene mode and settings as default.
Recorded video camera sample:
http://youtu.be/9LrUg5BlUJ4
Sound & Speaker output:
The speaker output is average, and it's a mono speaker inside dispute the twin speaker holes on the bottom of the P5000. The 3.5mm jack output I found to be on the low side, not very loud or punchy. It defiantly lacks volume, something that could be address here on XDA by a mod or via an update.
Battery life:
The battery is a huge 5350maH, using battery calirator to read the mAH, it reported 4320 mAH, a little less than the advertised 5350 mah. The battery life does seem good, playing Dead Trigger 2, Real Racing 3 and then watching a movie. I had almost 3 hours screen on time for a loss of around 40% battery, 2 hours of that was gaming. This is without the power saving CPU feature on and using a high brightness. I also used GPS/ Maps and streamed youtube over Wifi. I would call it heavy use. So not too bad I think. With heavy use you should get around 2 days where as on other phones you would have to recharge half way.
I'm still testing the battery life so check back for updates on this.
Pros
Sharp 1080p screen with 440 PPI
Finger print scanner that works well.
Large battery and good battery life
Good performance Vs price
Decent build quality
Dual sim with expandable storage
No stutters or lag experienced in gaming or the UI
Cons:
Camera could take a decent picture if the right half wasn't blurred (Defective camera?)
3.5 mm headphone output is low, should be much louder.
Loudspeaker has an average output.
Usb cable connection sometimes erratic
Final verdict and rating
7/10
While it has a super battery and good performance, my unit was let down with a defective camera. The video quality could also be improved on, as the chip set is capable of much more. Headset volume output is to low and sometimes I had the usb data connection to my pc cut out and disconnect for no reason at all. However all in all for the price isn't not bad if you get a unit with a good camera.
Hey Hendrickson,
I saw in your photos that you put in an external SD card (microSD).
I have the same phone and encountered the following problem:
everytime I put in an external SD, the /data gets mounted as /mnt/sdcard1, which the external SD card gets mounted as sdcard0 (aka internal sd).
The causes every sorts of problems with backups and Apps.
If I again remove the microSD and restart the phone, everything turns back to normal with /data linking to sdcard0 as it should be.
Did you encounter the same problem or is it maybe just a defect of the one phone that I bought?
Sent from my Elephone P5000 using xda Forum
I just got my pixel 2 today, and I noticed that when I watch a dark video where there are some lighter sections in a black area, the lighter sections appear totally blown out/distorted.
For example, in the following video, the black curtain behind the stage has lighter sections that appear distorted on my phone. They almost look pixelated. This video looks terrible on the pixel 2:
(Note: make sure to see the video to the highest resolution)
https://youtu.be/H-5gWJYzCMw
Is this happening to anyone else, or did I just get a bad panel? If I watch that video on my Nexus 5x, it looks fine.
That's a very poorly encoded highly compressed video. There are huge artefacts clearly visible on my QHD calibrated monitor. I think you should find some newer videos to better judge the screen.
Minos20vt said:
That's a very poorly encoded highly compressed video. There are huge artefacts clearly visible on my QHD calibrated monitor. I think you should find some newer videos to better judge the screen.
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I knew it wasn't the highest quality video (although it is awesome), I was just shocked how much better it looked on my other devices. The reason I played it first was because it was at the top of my recently played list, but I should have known it wasn't a good example. Thanks for testing it on another monitor.
I can see the same kind of thing on certain scenes in the new The Last Jedi trailer, but since the quality is a lot higher, it is barely noticable. I really have to look to see it, which seems acceptable to me. https://youtu.be/Q0CbN8sfihY
jonnale said:
I knew it wasn't the highest quality video (although it is awesome), I was just shocked how much better it looked on my other devices. The reason I played it first was because it was at the top of my recently played list, but I should have known it wasn't a good example. Thanks for testing it on another monitor.
I can see the same kind of thing on certain scenes in the new The Last Jedi trailer, but since the quality is a lot higher, it is barely noticable. I really have to look to see it, which seems acceptable to me. https://youtu.be/Q0CbN8sfihY
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If you want to check for banding, don't use a video. Use solid colours... Feel free to use the ones here: http://www.nullabletype.co.uk/static/styles/blah.html . No need to install anything, just go to them in a browser and scroll to see different colours and grey scales. If you screen isn't uniform, they'll be visible. I'd check in a dark room with various screen brightness levels.
I currently don't have any gradient ones to try with, but you can probably find some greyscale/colour gradients to play with online.
https://www.reddit.com/r/GooglePixel/comments/77cax8/pixel_2_black_crush_issue_pic_xpost_from/
I mainly consume media on my phones, so how is the experience of netflix on the s8 plus? Without headphones is it watchable or the mono audio sound terrible?
I do not own an S8+, however, reading consumer feedback about it, the speaker is not particularly good. It is bottom facing (so already is not ideal for media playback) and not the best quality speaker in the first place.
If someone with the phone disagrees, feel free to update this post!
I also am an avid music/ video consumer. While I love the S8 models (and before them the S7's), we are poorly served by the single bottom firing speaker for this usage.
I find the speaker clear and loud enough, but if you're used to stereo front facing speakers, I'm pretty sure you're in for a disappointment if you're anything like me, depending on how much of your usage is for this particular purpose.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
before my s8 I had an iphone 7 plus and before that a old nexus 6. Both much more pleasant when it comes to media consumption. When on my nexus or iphone, I watched a lot of youtube but now with the s8 no single video - all on my ipad. Even though I have a stereo speaker mod that does help a bit. Maybe it is also because of the smaller display of the s8 but all in all the full 6 inch and stereo speakers of my nexus 6 with the 2560x1440 amoled display was the best experience so far.
FloM94 said:
before my s8 I had an iphone 7 plus and before that a old nexus 6. Both much more pleasant when it comes to media consumption. When on my nexus or iphone, I watched a lot of youtube but now with the s8 no single video - all on my ipad. Even though I have a stereo speaker mod that does help a bit. Maybe it is also because of the smaller display of the s8 but all in all the full 6 inch and stereo speakers of my nexus 6 with the 2560x1440 amoled display was the best experience so far.
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It's the stupid 18:9 aspect ratio the S8 has. if it was the correct ratio at 16:9 it would properly fill the screen instead of leaving massive black bars on the sides and just looking stupid. My next phone will be back to a proper 16:9 ratio (if there is anyone left making them by then!), I'm sick of this long stretched crap already, it has no use what so ever.
aside from that, the stupid speaker placement means whenever i play a game, or watch a video, my finger goes RIGHT over the entire speaker in the natural position I would hold the phone, so I have to hold it awkwardly to get any sound out of it.
yeah the 18:9 is at this time just a pain in the neck. The only "positive" thing is the smaller form factor of the 5.8" phone. But I think that this new aspect ratio is the future, so sadly this may sound.. Most of the apps and nearly all games are 16:9, this does take a loong time that every developer switches to 18:9 - just like the process of switching USB A to USB C.
I think even with the small bezels on top and bottom of the s8 would have allowed it to place dual front facing speakers. The old nexus 6 had also very small bezels on top and bottom and the speaker was just great. The fact that the galaxy`s now all have to be waterproof is also downgrading the speaker in its soundquality i think...