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Car dock = Desktop dock; so audio out possible?

I amazed I'm the first one to notice this, so I'm probably not. I took apart my car dock and found the PCB inside is almost identical to the desktop dock (see photos). The upshot here is that I would strongly guess that you could easily solder on parts to either one and add things like:
- An audio out jack to the car dock (!)
- Volume up/down switches to the desktop dock
- Speakers (small ones!) to the desktop dock
- An external mic to the desktop dock
Most of that doesn't seem so great, but adding an audio jack to the car dock would be fantastic.
Pictures 1 & 2 are the desktop dock, 3 & 4 are the car dock.
Notice the unused pads on the car dock PCB (pic #4) for a headphone jack at bottom left.
Notice the pads for the speakers in pic #2 (desktop dock) at the top.
Also in in pic #2 you can see where the volume rocker would connect at bottom left and mic at bottom center.
Finally the tiny circle near my thumb in pic #4 looks to be a micro antenna jack, hard to tell for sure.
JB

That's incredibly lame of google to not put the audio out when it's the same pcb.

James Bell said:
I amazed I'm the first one to notice this, so I'm probably not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good find.
Along a vaguely similar vain, I suggested over here a method of using a Desk Dock as Car AUX input. It has certain benefits over non OEM accessories that do similar. I am in the process if fitting a USB power supply to my car. Once that is done I will fit the Desk Dock semi permanent out of site as a BT AUX in feed.
Of course getting an AUX jack in the Car Dock would be much better.

next thing would be prying off the metal cover and see if they have the same circuitry inside. Then if yes all you have to do is solder a 3.5 female jack on it and voila'...

fan or heatsink?
cool beans!
i wonder if you could install a copper backing plate connected to a heatsink (like ones you can buy for ram) instead of the plastic piece to help with the high heat issues some are having...hmm...
seems like there's enough room

Dude, love how you tore the desktop dock apart on your desk and the car dock in your car.

Since the pcb's are the same size, couldn't you swap them out, cut a hole in the case and then you'd have audio out on the car dock?
=D

@muncheese
Yah I think so. Problem is it'd recognize it as the desktop dock...errr and you'd lose the speakers and volume rocker from the car dock.
My motivation to solder on an old headphone jack is low - my '01 325 doesn't have an aux in to plug into it! Maybe I'll do it anyway if I can find the right jack.
@SPAS79
I started to pry off the metal top but ran out of time to fool with it. I want to look up the chips and see if any of their outputs can be used to trigger the mute line on my stereo.

Well the speaker wouldnt matter since it'll be going through the car audio system, same for the volume, just control the car stereo volume. =)

I took off the metal cover on the desktop dock, picture below.
There's a daughtercard called an NF2301. Made by nFore and (poorly) described here:
http://www.nforetek.com/products.htm

Adding an Aux out on the Car Dock will place it on the Dock itself.
Ideally for neatness, it would be on the base near the suction cup. I suppose you could run a short cable along the chrome arm and situate the jack on the base near the USB outlet.

Chrome arm should be hollow as it already has power running through it. Might be enough room to run a small cable through it.

This is very exciting
Keep us updated on what happens with you!
Bump!

this is fantastic news. I actually have an audio socket left over from my desk dock audio switch project. If someone wants to buy me another car dock or can prove that soldering on a jack will work then i'd be willing to rip it apart and do what google SHOULD have done in the first place!

I cant wait for some chinese company to make this for the nexus:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19747
I have one currently that I used with my iphone and while it felt cheap.. It did everything:
held my iphone in place in the car
charged and did audio out with single sync cable
audio out can be routed either to the 3.5mm aux line AND the built in FM transmitter
remote (which stopped working after 1 week)
Mostly I like the fact that it mounted/charged/audio-out my iphone all at once with 1 cable and was only $12 shipped.. I would love something similar for my nexus

If all the talk about the 2.2 update enabling the FM transmitter is true. It would explain why the car dock has no audio out.
And if Google keeps the Nexus One updates on the same track it should be arriving next Tuesday.
First Tuesday of every month has had a blog update and the second of update of each month has been on or around the last Wednesday.

sweltzin said:
If all the talk about the 2.2 update enabling the FM transmitter is true. It would explain why the car dock has no audio out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen no talk of enabling an FM TRANSMITTER. Just rumours of them enabling an FM receiver, which would be no solution for the car dock.

Even if it did have an FM transmitter, I would prefer the audio out on the dock. Less hassle, better sound.

logger said:
I have seen no talk of enabling an FM TRANSMITTER. Just rumours of them enabling an FM receiver, which would be no solution for the car dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's both.

muncheese said:
It's both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats a fairly vague comment.
Yeah the radio is a transceiver. Thats fairly obvious. It is after all a cellphone.
But are you saying Google will be activating the FM transmitter in such a way as it will transmit audio to a car FM radio? Or are you just saying the FM radio fitted to the phone is a transceiver.

[Q] Bluetooth-> Car Aux Device (A2DP)

I want to listen to music in my car via bluetooth A2DP. My car's stereo system only has AUX in. So, I am looking for a device to pair with my phone and plug into the aux port for my car's stereo. I don't really care about hands free calling. That'd be a plus, but not necessary.
I've been doing some research and found two that look reasonable.
BlackBerry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway (would require yet another charger)
Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit
Does anyone here have any experience with these or any recommendations?

If I were you, I would get something like this:
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs...10551&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665801276
The reason being that it gets pretty good reviews and you would be able to also use it outside of the car if you wanted to.
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Ericsson...1DCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1288590977&sr=8-1
I am probably going to buy this thing soon, as I have been eying it for a few days now.

If you don't want to charge there are plenty of wire in kits. Check out parrot. They might have a kit that fit s what you want.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

I bought a LiquidAUX and would advise staying away from it unless you like sub par sound quality. The volume is about 75% compared to being plugged directly into my aux port and the quality is like streaming a low quality radio station. For calls I would say it gets the job done "acceptably" but music requires much better fidelity than you'll get from it.

I use the LiquidAUX. I use it to listen to podcasts and have no problem with the sound quality. I did have to buy a ground loop noise filter.

I have the blackberry stero gateway and I use it in my living room, it works fantastic for music.

Just as a follow-up to my original post, I ended up deciding on Satechi Bluetooth Hands-free Car Stereo Fm Transmitter for iPhone 4, 3Gs & 3G and Bluetooth Stereo A2DP supported Devices (available on amazon).
The Satechi device works great! It pairs with the phone quickly and the sound quality is great. This device is exactly what I was looking for. It plugs into the cigarette lighter and has AUX out which I plugged into the stereo in my car. I was a bit worried about noise from the car's engine, but that wasn't a problem. The volume is very slightly lower than plugging the phone directly into the AUX in on my car's stereo. Realistically, that may just be my ears playing tricks on me. It also has a USB port which puts out 5V @ 1000mA for charging USB devices (my Epic).
I didn't use the FM transmitter or the call feature since the only thing I really wanted was the A2DP to AUX.

davidb_ said:
I want to listen to music in my car via bluetooth A2DP. My car's stereo system only has AUX in. So, I am looking for a device to pair with my phone and plug into the aux port for my car's stereo. I don't really care about hands free calling. That'd be a plus, but not necessary.
I've been doing some research and found two that look reasonable.
BlackBerry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway (would require yet another charger)
Kensington LiquidAUX Bluetooth Car Kit
Does anyone here have any experience with these or any recommendations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of car? I know GM and several others have aftermarket adapters that plug into the factory harness that allow the addition of A2DP in an almost factory style addon.

done12many2 said:
What kind of car? I know GM and several others have aftermarket adapters that plug into the factory harness that allow the addition of A2DP in an almost factory style addon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Subaru. I'm actually planning on switching out the factory stereo for a carputer-type thing in the spring. This is just hold me out until nicer weather.

davidb_, why are you opposed to using the Aux port? Seems like a simpler yet more robust solution.

http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/1919

I was just about to post something about that Scosche one. After doing a bit of searching, it seems to be rated fairly well. I'm considering buying one for my wife's car, so if anyone has any experience with it, I'm curious to hear about some more first hand experience.

I have now used both the Kensington LiquidAUX and the Scosche BTAXS motorMOUTH II and I am wishing there was something that had the best of both. Here are my thoughts on both:
Kensington LiquidAUX
I really like the overall feature set of this solution. The remote is handy to skip past ads in podcasts and to jump back a few seconds when the navigation interrupts what I'm listening to. I also like that it is powered.
What I didn't like is that I had to get a ground loop noise filter (although once I did, the sound was perfect.) Also, there were some connection issues if I was listening with the car off and then started the car due to the interruption of power to the device. The phone never seemed to reconnect in that situation. I would have to turn off the LiquidAUX and turn it back on and wait for it to reconnect. I liked that it has an extra USB port so I could charge the phone if it was low on juice without a separate power adapter but it only charges at 500 mA so really it just kept the phone from dying without really adding extra charge during the drive. The one huge drawback to the LiquidAUX was that people found it difficult to hear me during calls. I usually had to switch the call to speakerphone to have any success. I think the location of the microphone (due to the location of my power port) was the cause of this issue. This is what led me to purchase the Scosche BTAXS.​
Scosche BTAXS
There were several things that impressed me with the Scosche BTAXS. I loved the fact that there was no mess of cables. The position of the microphone was much better because it was up at the AUX port of the head unit so I never had any complaints on calls. The sound was great and since it wasn't drawing power from the car I no longer needed the noise filter. Also, Scosche provided many great accessories in the box that other companies might have sold separately.
What I don't like about the Scosche BTAXS is the terrible battery life. I drive about 40 min to work. I cannot use the Scosche BTAXS on both my drive to and from work and leave it in the car overnight and expect it to work the next day. If I drive around on my lunch break, it may not last all day, even when I turn it off when not in use. Scosche does provide a charging cable and car adapter so I can power it during use but that takes away the coolness of not having any cables. It also introduces a little bit of ground loop noise. If I was to run it through the filter I would not be able to position the microphone where I would get the best call quality.​
In conclusion, neither of these devices is perfect. The call quality issue of the LiquidAUX is a big drawback that I wish there was a way to overcome. Since there isn’t, I will most likely stick with the Scosche and just make sure I recharge it whenever I am not in the car.

I got this from Buy.com for $20 a few months back. Hopefully you'll find a good deal like that again.
http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Li..._1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1293177894&sr=1-1

Any update on products for this. I am looking to do this in my 09 jetta through the Aux in, and none of the solutions seem that stellar. Just wanted to see if anyone had found something recently that works great.

I keep looking for a simple BT solution that can give me the best of both worlds. I'm surprised there is no simple BT receiver that can sit behind the dash plugged in to power and aux with a mic out and corded dual mic I can route myself. Liquidaux and motormouth II come close yet miss the mark. A quality mic on the kensington would make for a perfect setup. A remote mic on the motormouth II would be great. Makes zero sense at this stage of the game.
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nice thing
http://www.belkin.com/au/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=530115

Just rcvd my TranzIt USB car kit.

So I wanted an inline audio option for my 2004 Isuzu Axiom. I hate FM modulators, especially due to how I love road trips, always running into some nosey radio station trying to annex my music. I don't have a tape player, so those nifty contraptions are out. And if you saw how Isuzu decided to combine a radio, a/c and onboard computer (of sorts) then you would understand how complicated it would be to simply replace the radio (hell, I would lose the ability to change through different suspension presets among other things). Yeah, it is possible, but is it worth it, meh.
Well, w/me joining Google music beta, I have finally decided to do something about it w/this purchase.
For those that don't know, the TranzIt offers a direct, inline connection to your stereo by hooking it up inline through the antenna in. It also adds a 5volt charging station via USB, which, if I understand correctly, is the correct voltage for charging mobile phones and such as opposed to the voltage used by car chargers.
I also got a 1 meter long micro USB cable at no charge due to some special.
Obviously, it's not connected just yet, but I should be able to install it this weekend. After which, I'll update this post w/install pics, a review of both installation and actual usage. Once I get home, I'll edit a link into this post, but again, I can't verify whether it's worth it yet.
So, here are some pics still in the box...
Sent from my [rooted] LG-P999 running CM 7.1 using XDA Premium App

ok thats a inline fm modulator with a usb charging port the modulator will cut off the antennas connection to the radio while on and you will still have to tune it to a certain frequency to use it. but that is deffinatly a better option then using the regular fm modulators.

Xargon321 said:
ok thats a inline fm modulator with a usb charging port the modulator will cut off the antennas connection to the radio while on and you will still have to tune it to a certain frequency to use it. but that is deffinatly a better option then using the regular fm modulators.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, but the operative statement "will cut off the connection to the" antenna feed, is what makes me so happy. My options are limited, and if I want to keep the installation at least fairly simple, than that drops my options even more.
I plan on placing the USB and audio in ports in an unused and available spot on the radio itself (basically next to my sport suspension preset and winter TOD preset) they have a couple of other areas that look like they were meant for other options and could look stock. Then I want to mount the power switch to on the dash or maybe in the center console next to the CD changer. The cord is more than long enough and it would be less conspicuous. I want it to look as OEM as possible. And looking over the contents of the box, it shouldn't be difficult to make it look like it belongs. I've done much more complicated NOS switches.
Sent from my [rooted] LG-P999 running CM 7.1 using XDA Premium App

How much does this options run???
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I use the car charger to charge my G2x and I use the old tape player adapter for CD players and plug it in to the headphone port on the phone. Works awesome!

tidewaterns said:
I use the car charger to charge my G2x and I use the old tape player adapter for CD players and plug it in to the headphone port on the phone. Works awesome!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I LOVE those tape player adapters! The sound was great, but my stock radio doesn't have a cassette player. But you're right, that is an awesome combo.
Sent from my [rooted] LG-P999 running CM 7.1 using XDA Premium App

tidewaterns said:
I use the car charger to charge my G2x and I use the old tape player adapter for CD players and plug it in to the headphone port on the phone. Works awesome!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's my hook-up also. With PowerAmp, those Bose speakers in my Maxima are getting a work-out.

Well, it only took me almost 20 days, but today I decided to brave the 100+ degree heat and connect it up in my Axiom.
It turned out to be an easy set up, well, as far as connecting it up. I connected the power to the leads connecting to my cigarette lighter, although, when I go back in to place the connections in my console [or maybe in my ashtray, just some cuts to allow the wires] I think I'll directly connect it to the ignition.
Now for the review. F'N AWESOME! I'm running CM that comes preinstalled w/DSPManager, so I'm given a full gambit of audio options. Even w/o that, it still comes out crisp and works well w/my oem stereo and the options available through it.
It gives a 5 volt charge, which is the correct voltage as opposed to most car chargers that don't have the ability to drop down the voltage.
My only real issue is the fact the USB connection is for pwr only and I have to use a 3.5 audio connector to play the music. So I have 2 lines running from my phone to 2 separate jacks... I won't say it's a small issue either. I'm big on as few cables and as neat as possible, so this is a thorn in my side. I also understand though, that it's not as simple as just changing the wire or the USB port, so the possibility I'll ever find an aftermarket connector that offeres all in one isn't going to happen.
Overall, considering how much simpler this is than getting a new stereo, then customizing my console [the Axiom combines the A/C controls, GPS, damn near everything into the head unit] this was a much better option for me and I'm glad I got it.

best bet would be to hook into the accessory wire on your ignition. that way it only runs when your car is on.
is the cig lighter powered all the time? if it is you can hook a relay in between the cig lighter and car kit and use the accessory wire as a signal wire to tell the relay to turn on the power.

Xargon321 said:
best bet would be to hook into the accessory wire on your ignition. that way it only runs when your car is on.
is the cig lighter powered all the time? if it is you can hook a relay in between the cig lighter and car kit and use the accessory wire as a signal wire to tell the relay to turn on the power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's the plan, the ignition at least. The only reason I connected it through my cig lighter was to get it done fast. I don't have the USB or audio port set where I want it either. I wanted an idea on how I liked it prior to putting any real time into it, especially cutting for the ports.
Several days into it now and I love it more than before. Decided I'm going to modify my ashtray to house the ports and the power switch. That way it'll stay incognito for the most part [since the available pop out tabs on the head unit aren't large enough to house the USB port for a more OEM look] and the light that activates at night, when opened, will be great as far as not fumbling around for the connections. Won't be this weekend, but once I get some time, I'm finishing this project up, my interior looks GHE-TTO and I don't like it.

Where can I a find Multimedia Car adapter?

So I'm in the planning stages to dash mount a Galaxy Tab 7.0 Plus (still haven't bought the tablet yet), and wanted to know where I could find an accessory similar to the Galaxy Tab Multimedia Dock. My goal is to have one connection that will give me both power and audio out to my stereo. The desktop dock can accomplish this for me, but its very bulky and wont be easy to fit in my dash. I could take the dock apart and make it work, but would prefer not to waste 35 dollars like that.
So far the only other item I found that may work is this RCA Composite Cable with USB, but it says only for the original and some of the reviews mention the cable not having the usb attachment as pictured.
Does anyone else have any suggestions?

Finally found it on Amazon after a few days of looking. 30 Pin to USB Charging and 3.5mm Audio Out
Just ordered it and will post pics of my finished car installation and let anyone else who's interested know if it works or not.

isolated_epidemic said:
Finally found it on Amazon after a few days of looking. 30 Pin to USB Charging and 3.5mm Audio Out
Just ordered it and will post pics of my finished car installation and let anyone else who's interested know if it works or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let us know how you make out with this. I'd be curious to see if it's compatible with the 6210.

Both of the cables I listed work great. The only issue I have noticed is that at when the stereo is turned up you can hear interference from the power cable. When the music is playing you can't hear it at all.
As I mentioned, here is a picture of the final product. It's hinged on the bottom and clips into place with the standard mounting hardware. FYI it's inside a 2000 Nissan Xterra XE. The volume knob is where the second lighter adapter was. I just hooked in an inline volume knob to adjust the output from the tablet to the stereo. I replaced the included knob with one I ripped off an old stereo. You can barely see that I also installed an auxiliary input jack that somehow miraculously reduces the volume of the tablet when another device is hooked in. All of the "guts are stored inside the dash where all of the other wires are located. If anyone is interested I can post more pictures.

Thanks for the follow up. The final product looks very good. Nice work!

Nice install. Thanks for sharing.

Man, that cable would have come in useful when i was still direct-connecting my tablet. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Put a PAC SN1 inline with your audio to reduce your ground loop interference - that's what i used when i was direct connecting the audio.
Also have this set up on my dash, but I've jumped to the 7.7 and gave the 7 Plus to my wife. I actually prefer to use bluetooth to connect the audio because i can use the car's steering control to control advance/reverse of media.
I'm putting up pics soon of my setup in the 7.7 forum.

rEVOLVE said:
Man, that cable would have come in useful when i was still direct-connecting my tablet. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Put a PAC SN1 inline with your audio to reduce your ground loop interference - that's what i used when i was direct connecting the audio.
Also have this set up on my dash, but I've jumped to the 7.7 and gave the 7 Plus to my wife. I actually prefer to use bluetooth to connect the audio because i can use the car's steering control to control advance/reverse of media.
I'm putting up pics soon of my setup in the 7.7 forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up. I was prepared to live with the interference because I didn't know I had a choice. I found a PAC SNI-1 ground loop noise isolator for 14 bucks on eBay. Can't wait to install it and get back to clear audio.
On a side note; after about a month with this tablet in my car, I have to say I'm in love. With the power plugged in and screen on while charging activated, the tablet turns on when I start the car, just like any stereo would. Also when I take it out at night it makes my car look already-broken-into and deters the motherlovin thieves that have been breaking into neighborhood cars.
By the way, does anyone know how to remove the annoying 100% charged sound? It can get especially irritating when I have plenty of stops to make and the tablet loses a percent and gains it back everytime I turn the car off and on again.

New MTCD unit, have some issues...

So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?

I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk

supersilko said:
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, i might have... but what did you replace the MTCD unit with, an MTCB?
EDIT: I have a crazy idea to keep my nice single din alpine unit connected to my sound system and mount it in my glove box, then connect the android unit to its aux in. Then put the steering wheel controls on a 3.5mm switch box between both units. I'd use the alpine for audio processing, bluetooth music, and hands free calls, then the android for android apps + backup camera and thumbstick music. Am I insane or would this be a good compromise? My phone would also control all the bluetooth peripherals I mentioned. I also plan on getting a dedicated second battery for the audio equipment (already have 2 amps plus a capacitor) so that might be more critical afterwards.

I'm back to stock stereo. Gonna look around for a good unit that is coming later.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk

I just got a Joying unit for a Jeep this weekend.
#1 - can't help, Jeep antenna stays up all the time
#2 - I only use Bluetooth for phone calls or playing audio, works fine in both scenarios. One odd caveat is that if I am on a phone call the audio seems only to come out of the front passenger speaker. I use the included external mic and people say I sound fine
#3 - My steering wheel controls half work. Volume and mute work all the time, same for Bluetooth phone. The controls to change the track only work on stock apps like Music, A2DP, DVD, etc, meaning it does not work on Google Play Music or Pandora. Volume steering wheel controls work fine with Pandora and Google Play Music

I have the Same Unit.. I have it on the bench as I was getting ready to installing in place of my Newsmy. I tested the remote lines tonight.
Power antenna, shows 12v once power is applied.. stays at 12v until Accessory power is removed.
Amp Remote works as it should, it I power off the radio from the knob. the 12v amp remote turns off.. Ant stays on.. ALL THE TIME. This unit is no better than my Newsmy. I have had it too long now to return it. Guess I will sell it for something simple. I am going to miss the back up camera, but I need something that fully works as I have full power mast antenna..

TallgeeseIV said:
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JY-UL124 here
+1 to Bluetooth issues. SuperSU completely broke bluetooth forcing me to reflash to get any functionality back.
I'm really bummed they basically lock you into joining only a phone and an ODB device and that's it. Nothing else can be paired with the unit. This is a little hokey and really devalues the whole system in my opinion.
Bluetooth has pretty poor sound quality through the unit too but it may not be bluetooth specifically causing the issue. I drive an FJ cruiser so cabin sound proofing isn't great to begin with. To compete with road noise I have to blast the stereo and the highs come up fuzzy in the process. When I'm stopped or idleing it seems that most of my issue goes away and the sound isn't half bad provided I'm playing from a sound file physically on my phone and not streaming. I need to tear into it again later to install the front camera and fog lights so when I do that I'll add in some capacitors and a torrid to try to clean up power to the unit to see if that helps.
If I'm right, the bluetooth is functional so far as taking the signal and turning it into meaningful audio. It's a digital technology so either the data gets there or it doesn't. I haven't dug too much into the spec but I assume I should be hearing whatever I hear at idle at any speed. Anyhow, once that is turned into an analog signal for delivery to the speakers (and the functional parts in between) that's where you can introduce sound degradation. So this is a function of the amp, or the fact that my hookup wires or so long, or something. I have also noticed that shortly after "bluetoothing" a short sound like a delivery notice the amp stays on for a short second or so and you can hear the interference with some digital rf. (like the sound you get when you put a cell phone too close to computer speakers) It's faint but it is there along with some static. There is no way that bare speaker wire could pick up digital rf and make it sound that loud, so that means somehow rf is leaking into the circuitry before the amp.
I'm praying I'm right and it's leaking in through power somewhere cause that's an easy fix. If it's not then it's something with the board design and there's rf leaking from the circuitry and making it into the audio signal inside the unit. That has a low probability of being fixable.