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bought a silicon case with unbreakable screen cover

After read some posts in here I decided to buy a silicon case.
I bought a silicon case with unbreakable screen cover from this website:
http://pdaden.com/shop/catalog/
product_16662_Soft_Jacket_Set_for_
O2_XDAII_Qtek_2020_with_unbreakable_screen_cover_cat_473.html
(please remove those new line before paste URL on your address bar)
I spend $ 26.95 = 14.24 pounds for it.
It was shipped from Hong Kong and took over two weeks to london.
Almost everything is as good as I expected:
I chose black colour because looks smaller;
I can put it into my pocket now, which was impossible with leather case;
Comfort feeling in hand;
Unbrakable screen cover is nice and clear maybe it reduced reflection.
Both Belt Clip and Belt clip button can be removed so that it has a smooth back;
Provided a nice hand strap but I would never use it;
It has many holes for SD card slot, sound volume slider, head phone socket, reset 'button', camera and camera mirror, antenna connector and data cable connector.
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However I got problems...
After happiness is headache.
The first issue is how to operate the XDA2 without touching screen.
I set record button to start menu then I can use joystick to load a program.
Today can also be selected by joystick in WM2003SE but not for WM2003.
Installed a software AltTab so I can use red phone button to close window.
I also installed the Contacts Button so I can use joystick to select contact items and redefine joystick in phone.
however I cannot dial a number which is not in contacts without opening screen cover.
THE BIGGEST PROBLEM IS, joystick does not properly work any more!
The manufacture claim that the case has 'Accur-Touch keypad cover'. This feature perfectly works with other buttons but joystick. Because joystick is not a button. I cannot use arrow anymore. Under silicon cover, pressing four arrow keys becomes pressing down button. This is a really bad design.
Thank mamaich and Des for developed tools to hack volume slider. So I don't have to use joystick any more. But this still very inconvenient.
The best solution may be cutting anonther hole on it.

The second issue is cannot be placed on cradle.
Because silicon cover is thick and sticky.
The hole for connector only can be used for recharging.
I hope I could have a data cable not a cradle.
Other solution is using bluetooth ActiveSync.
I am still looking for a perfect bluetooth stack for XDA2.
So currently I have to remove unbreakable cover and pull XDA2 out.
I worry about if I do this too many times the flexiable cover will be loose.

i have the same case
about the actionbutten then it's good enough for my needs
not goog enough to play tetris or something but good enough for me
when i want to call or mess with programs i open the lid
i have no problems with the minijack connector when using the case
i dont use the cradle unless i have to do a full restore and bluetooth is too slow for that
i use the org ms bluetooth stack along with bluetooth tools and it's working perfectly for sync with my pc
i'm happy enough with it
i sync with BT and charge with the connector on the cable
i open when i need to do screen operations

flywhc said:
The second issue is cannot be placed on cradle.
Because silicon cover is thick and sticky.
The hole for connector only can be used for recharging.
I hope I could have a data cable not a cradle.
Other solution is using bluetooth ActiveSync.
I am still looking for a perfect bluetooth stack for XDA2.
So currently I have to remove unbreakable cover and pull XDA2 out.
I worry about if I do this too many times the flexiable cover will be loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not buy a xda2s cradle as its bigger than the xda2. i can get you a price if you want PM me

unfortunately the silicon case easily stick a dust on it...but its washable...
no probs with the sync...just buy the usb sync cable from the same store...
my wife love to used with it... :lol: but i love my clear case and the innopocket hard case...
btw i just cut the sync connector cover...its annoying while inserting the sync cable...and i just put some not too expensive screen protector to the unbreakable cover...

I just order one, and I am thinking tu cut the rear part to use it with my backpack....

Yes!!!!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?p=239589#239589
http://www.todopocketpc.com/foro/showthread.php?t=93783

Designio leather case reviewed... By me !

Hello, I was searching for a leather case for my Kaiser for two months now.
Here is what I expected from my case :
1) - I wanted my screen protected with something hard.
2) - the case should let me answer the phone without removing anything.
3) - it should let me open the keyboard without removing the whole case.
4) - I didn't want any plastic thing covering my keyboard once the keyboard is opened.
And I found the perfect case that match my wishes !
Well, I said "perfect" ? Let's see ...
The case is the Designio leather case, here it is :
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Lets' check if it really match my wishes ...
1) - the protective "door" for the screen is really hard, yes, it will really protect my screen. Also, the closure of the door is very good : there is a magnet in the leather case, so the door open/close very easily and remains closed in the pocket (attracted by the magnet). So this protective "door" for the screen is a very good point !
2) - you can easily answer the phone while the case is closed. When your phone rings, nothing to do except pushing the green button. All the buttons around the pad still have a good access with this case. New good point !
3) & 4) - to open the keyboard, I need, this time, to remove the whole upper side of the case. I didn't expected something better, I think we just can't do anything better than this. The keyboard opens very easily here again, the leather is very well adjusted, nothing touch the screen while you let it slide to see the keyboard. Once the keyboard is opened, nothing covers it so the keys are very easy to access and keep their original typing comfort. Again, good point !
But all isn't good ... Now the bad points ...
- When you power off your device, if the upper side of the case is opened, while pressing the power button the Kaiser "pop up" from case, it's very dangerous, it could just drop from the case. So you need to take your Kaiser in both hands to power it off, or close the upper side of the case before.
- Some buttons are a little hard to access. The side "OK" button is partially covered (just a little) by the leather. So it's sometimes hard to press it.
- The hole made for the stylus should be in a higher position. So it is also hard to remove the stylus. The good side of this is that it will now be harder to lose the stylus !
- The hole made for the power button is not big enough, you need to press the hole very strong to touch the button, or you can use your nail as the button access will then be easier, but I hate this.
- The size : to have two leather layers on the screen is very protective but takes of course more room in your pocket. I think the Kaiser, in this case, is about 1cm bigger (from the side view). I will let people convert it into inches if they need !
- Last but not least : I have a problem with my case, the first cover of the screen (the one around the screen, not the "door" wich covers the whole screen) is not well made. The button (in french we say "pressure button", I don't know what's the english word for this) wich let it close is not at the right place. So when I close it, it's a little down, covering a little part of my screen (the bottom right). It's not a very big issue because it's only covering a very little part the screen (I'd say about 2mm), but this sucks anyway. If only they had put this button just 1 mm higher, the protective leather part would perfectly fit the screen. These days, I'm focusing on this problem and it makes me angry !
Is this problem specific to my case ? I'm not sure ... When I look at some shots of this case on the web, sometimes I can see the same problem on the commercial shot ! There may be a way to fix this problem, I'm working on that, but I don't want to cut the leather, that's the hard thing to think about.
Conclusion :
This case does its job : to protect your Kaiser. I have no doubt about this, the only thing wich is not covered is the pad and its buttons. Some buttons should have a better access, but they are still accessible.
The finish is very good, it could be a high price product ...
I think it's worth the price, of course depending on where you buy it. I bought mine in a Hong Kong shop on Ebay. The price was about 15€, shipping included. I waited for it for 3 weeks, so be patient !
I just hope for you, if you buy it, that you will not have the issue I had with the "pressure button" wich is not at the exact place it should be... Just one millimeter higher and it would just be perfect !!!

Wrong Section should be in Kaiser accessories......

Yes you're right ! Sorry ! I made a copy of this post in the right sectio now ... I will try to remove this one

[Q] HTC Sensation XE - power button failure

Hi guys,
Wondering if you can help re the following problem.
By accident, I managed to tear the power button strip on my phone (i.e. not the silver button, but the part that must be depressed). The phone is elsewise in perfect working condition.
I need to turn this particular phone on, as there is some important information on it that I need to access.
Any ideas how I can turn it on, or access the data therein?
Would appreciate any help - thanks in advance
Terry

The power button just completes an electrical circuit. That's all any power button on anything does.
Stuck in that black tape that's covering the button that you ripped are 2 tiny little wires. If you can connect those two wires even for a half a second, the circuit will be completed and the phone will power on.
I had to do the same thing on my MyTouch4G because I made the same mistake. It is not easy to do this. I had to use a VERY sharp knife (I used a surgical scalpel) to slice the surface off the black tape to expose the wires. Then I shorted them with a small peice of metal. It took about an hour to get it right.
Alternatively, if this critical information that you need is saved on the SD card....pull it out and use a card reader to view it on your computer.

Not sure if this will work for you but there is a app called tap tap app that allows you to turn On the phone without using the power button. I believe you can find it on the play store. It's supposed to be a button saver application
I've never tired it personally but I believe it's created to not use buttons to power on phone. I've came across it in the play store. Don't know much more about it but it might be worth checking out if you can get your phone powered on. Hope this helps. Best wishes and good luck.
Sent from my HTC Sensation using xda premium

Some roms also support turning on the phone by pressing a volume button.

ridder215215 said:
Some roms also support turning on the phone by pressing a volume button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That turns the screen on, not the phone and turning the screen on won't work when the phone is not powered on
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio Z715e using xda premium

Found solution for power on
lawtel23 said:
Hi guys,
Wondering if you can help re the following problem.
By accident, I managed to tear the power button strip on my phone (i.e. not the silver button, but the part that must be depressed). The phone is elsewise in perfect working condition.
I need to turn this particular phone on, as there is some important information on it that I need to access.
Any ideas how I can turn it on, or access the data therein?
Would appreciate any help - thanks in advance
Terry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
Sorry for my pure english and late answer.
May be it will be usefull for someone.
I got the same problem with power button.
After searching for solution on google I have not found anything helpful.
So I got multimeter and started to check all open contacts near the button.
And the solution is:
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To turn on the phone you need:
The contact (1) connect by piece of wire to some "ground" on the board (for example I connected it to camera holder, that signed on picture as (2) ) and hold it connected for some time, then the phone must to turn on...
This is my first post.
If you have any questions for this operation, I'll try to answer.

Sidden said:
Hi.
Sorry for my pure english and late answer.
May be it will be usefull for someone.
I got the same problem with power button.
After searching for solution on google I have not found anything helpful.
So I got multimeter and started to check all open contacts near the button.
And the solution is:
View attachment 2243064
To turn on the phone you need:
The contact (1) connect by piece of wire to some "ground" on the board (for example I connected it to camera holder, that signed on picture as (2) ) and hold it connected for some time, then the phone must to turn on...
This is my first post.
If you have any questions for this operation, I'll try to answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know I know Necromancy is a forbidden art form but right now you know how happy I am I just had to delve into it.
This is the best solution I have ever seen and thank-you so much for your time in figuring out how to do this, you have no idea how I felt when I felt that little buzz on my phone when I did this wire trick, I literally jumped a little with excitement, then the second time I did it I jumped with excitement more.
The thing I did though was there was a little rectangle in the plastic casing above where the dot is, I cut from one corner to the other side of a piece of plastic that was holding down the power button and from the other corner straight down, if that makes sense good, if not I have attached a picture, it is not very clear sorry but it is the best I can do because I have no camera other then my phone at the moment.
The red is where I was going to cut, the blue was a necessary cut because that small bit was to weak to stay on there and not get bent off by accident, this gives clear access to the small point to do this work around. Now if I need to revive my phone because of a dead battery or if anything happened to it I have a way to do it I have a wire in the back of the phone with the battery so I can just remove the back and use the wire. Also I installed sweep2wake, a necessary evil IMO.
P.S. I am going to leave this thread alone after this, I am just trying to get a solution more visible instead of making another thread just stating what this one has said, totally a huge thanks for Sidden, I was going to be stuck with a small samsung brick phone that only did SMS and took calls, you have made my day that much greater kind sir

S Pen Input Weird Glitch

So, I have been having a weird issue.
Everything works just fine on my tablet, with the exception of screen flicker as others has reported.
However, recently my s pen is not working right. Its not the pen, I have verified that my pen works fine on other note devices, and other s pens do not work on the tablet.
What happens is that it work only in small random spots and the input is completely off and never consistent.
The LCD works fine, touch input works fine, everything else works fine. I have done a master reset, to no avail.
The only thing I can find that is the issue, is the LCD cable connection to the PCB, not the motherboard. The spot where the cable connects below the battery.
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The top part of the connector is broken off. I do not know how this happened. I have opened up to check connectors before and never noticed this. It was only partially broken off but as I inspected it, the rest just came off easily.
Regardless of how it happened, I am wondering if this cable is responsible for also handling s pen input. If there is a join function.
This is the only connector with issues, and when I had it connected and pressed on it I heard the drop sound as if a touch or spen input was occurring, but that could have been coincidental.
As far as I know, the ribbon cable is one sided, and a missing top only causes issues with holding it in place. However, I could be mistaken here.
Does anyone know if the LCD cable/port is responsible for also handling spen input, or if there is a different connector/board/port I need to inspect that I may have missed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

phoenixbennu said:
So, I have been having a weird issue.
Everything works just fine on my tablet, with the exception of screen flicker as others has reported.
However, recently my s pen is not working right. Its not the pen, I have verified that my pen works fine on other note devices, and other s pens do not work on the tablet.
What happens is that it work only in small random spots and the input is completely off and never consistent.
The LCD works fine, touch input works fine, everything else works fine. I have done a master reset, to no avail.
The only thing I can find that is the issue, is the LCD cable connection to the PCB, not the motherboard. The spot where the cable connects below the battery.
The top part of the connector is broken off. I do not know how this happened. I have opened up to check connectors before and never noticed this. It was only partially broken off but as I inspected it, the rest just came off easily.
Regardless of how it happened, I am wondering if this cable is responsible for also handling s pen input. If there is a join function.
This is the only connector with issues, and when I had it connected and pressed on it I heard the drop sound as if a touch or spen input was occurring, but that could have been coincidental.
As far as I know, the ribbon cable is one sided, and a missing top only causes issues with holding it in place. However, I could be mistaken here.
Does anyone know if the LCD cable/port is responsible for also handling spen input, or if there is a different connector/board/port I need to inspect that I may have missed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
inside that connector there are spen control, touch screen, lcd and also pressure sensor so.....
Inviato dal mio LG-D802 utilizzando Tapatalk

I know the digitizer ribbon cable is located on the top left, and that is in tact. However, I can definitely assume that this broken connector is causing the trouble. The spen works just fine for hitting the back and tab button next to the home key, just nothing on the screen.
I am now wondering how to fix it. The actual digitizer and screen are fine, and I would hate to have to replace them just for a small damaged connector, and I assume it is just a PCB that can be changed out, but I cannot find the part listed anywhere, nor can I get into the back casing without damaging it. I would assume that to expose this PCB I would have to melt/grind off the nubs that hold together the inner framework.

Here is the method to test your S Pen, if it fails the test, you have to change the LCD but LCD and touchscreen are glued together as a set.
This is the way to get to Factory Mode using your calculator:
(+30012012732+
then
*#0*#
Wacom Test is the one for testing S Pen.
Use Back button to exit Factory Mode.

reverse camera issue

I got a MTCD PX3 unit which I didn't like and returned. Then I got a PX5 and it's great. They both had the same issue with the rear view camera though, when the engine was running, the camera stops. I believe it's a pulse width modulation issue with the power. There was one cable I forgot to return with the PX3 and I had no idea what it was for, but it just clicked, I'm just not sure how to use it.
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red: "Reverse-In"
yellow: "Reverse+12v"
white: "Camera+"
black: "Camera-"
I'm not entirely sure how I'm supposed to wire it or what it is. On a photo of the wires on the website I got it it says "regulators relays" but no other info. Does it regulate the power coming from the rear lights so I can hook directly to it, or is it a relay and I still need to find a source of 12v? Seems all the power in the car would have the same PWM issue, no? So it would have to smooth out the power?
Has anyone else gotten one of these with their units? Know how to wire it?

I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram

javiermi said:
I'm not sure of this configuration, but all the head units I have seen they have an RCA connector for video in, in your case it looks like you got two cables:
white - this should be the "live" cable ( center cable of the coaxial cable) and black, which should be the mesh cable around the coaxial cable ( which most probably is ground)
The way to test is to power your camera ( +12v) then feed the output to those two cables
To activate the head unit screen, you will need to feed +12 v to the red cable
If that works, and it doesn't work from the reverse light cable, probably is because the signal is pulsating, so you will need to "smooth" it. An easy way of doing that is with a diode and capacitor
If you are interested, send me a private message and I will send a diagram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, no, those cables aren't coming out of the camera, it's just to a little circuit board with some black shrink plastic covering it. The camera is normal, 1 RCA, 1 red, 1 black. These are all power or ground, just not sure which hooks to what.
Currently thinking red goes to reverse light ground, yellow goes to reverse light live, and black goes to camera black, white goes to camera red. That would be if it's a regulator to smooth the current and not a relay, but I'm not 100% on it.

OMG, I finally figured it out, it's labeled entirely wrong. I ended up simulating the circuit board and trying things till it worked.
Pictures of circuit board
Emulation
Pretty diagram
Final verdict:
white => power in from reverse lights
black => power in from reverse lights or smoother power source that is always on
yellow => to ground from reverse lights or car frame
red => power out to camera positive lead
Both white & black have capacitors on the line to smooth power. The capacitor on the white keeps the relay open for a few moments if there's fluctuation in power that would cause it to turn off.
White to power and yellow to ground switches the relay.
Red powers the camera, and ground for the camera can just go to the frame. Though I noticed on my camera it was grounded when the RCA was plugged in and didn't need the black wire connected (connected it anyway). Camera wouldn't even turn on actually without the ground from the RCA.