Anyone knows of a night vision app that turns your camera into--well yeah, night vision mode. Or maybe a dev can make it? Would be cool to have on my phone instead of using the dual LED
In order for Night vision to work, I think you would need to have Infrared lights on the back of the phone for illumination. Night vision doesn't just "See" in the dark, it still needs illumination. It then takes the slight illumination from the infrared lights and enhances the detail. The EVO only has the 2 White LED's on the back, so I doubt Night vision would be possible.
I could be completely wrong about this though...
As a side note, Night vision would be cool....
What happens if you get a huge IR flood light and carried it around with you while you were shooting? How much would it work or help in low light situations? HmmmMm... I see a purchase of some random crap in my future.
Vignette has a night vision option. Although not true night vision. It just converts the pic into a night vision format. Here is an example.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
thenewguy821 said:
In order for Night vision to work, I think you would need to have Infrared lights on the back of the phone for illumination. Night vision doesn't just "See" in the dark, it still needs illumination. It then takes the slight illumination from the infrared lights and enhances the detail. The EVO only has the 2 White LED's on the back, so I doubt Night vision would be possible.
I could be completely wrong about this though...
As a side note, Night vision would be cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your technichal answer is fully correct however maybe we can replace one of the white led's with an ir light. i know that one in my sony camera isnt much bigger than those led's ...just an idea though for the electronical savy ppl reading this...
and yes i would donate for a project like this that would be ****ing cool the first nightvision camera phone ever...are you serious its bound to make some revenue
You also need a camera lens that can detect IR light... I don't believe that every camera can see it. You might wanna look into that first
Actually there are two types of IR. Active (using IR illumination otherwise known as "painting the target"), and Passive (detecting the objects heat signature).
Most cameras use Active IR (red LEDS). Mostly seen on camcorders, and low end night vision (GEN1/2). Passive is Gen3 night vision. Expensive CCD. Mainly high end hunting scopes, and military optics (FLIR).
Most digital camera ccd's are capable of picking up infrared. You can see this by pointing a tv remote at the camera lens of your evo. It will show the IR illumination of the remote but if you try to use it to take a picture you will not get very good results. Using a large IR illuminator may improve your results but i dont think you want to carry around a large illuminator for pictures. While it would be cool, its just not practical.
coppertop24 said:
Most digital camera ccd's are capable of picking up infrared. You can see this by pointing a tv remote at the camera lens of your evo. It will show the IR illumination of the remote but if you try to use it to take a picture you will not get very good results. Using a large IR illuminator may improve your results but i dont think you want to carry around a large illuminator for pictures. While it would be cool, its just not practical.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is just so awesome. Thank you for sharing that piece of information. Doubting that it would work, I aimed my remote at my Evo and was rewarded with two glowing purple/white dots.
The more you know...
Related
I have read in a few place that the Sprint cam is better because ATT added some kinda film over the lense to protect it and its yellows our pics.
Here is a picture with stock settings from the Fuze.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Now if you go to the setting menu, chage the White Balance of of Auto and put it to the light bulb. Now you get a picture that looks like this.
I thought it would be cool to add some pictures from other sources I think the Cam on the Touch Pro (Fuze) is amazing.
Here is an 8.1 Megapixel Digital Cam.
Here is a pic from my Cingular 2125 (Tornado maybe?)
Here is a picture from my ATT 8525 (Hermes) 2.0MP.
I just figured this out as well. I know on my Tilt and my Vogue (with Sprint), I had to put it on the moon to get rid of that yellow tint.
I went through and tried all the settings and I think the light bulb one is the best.
EDIT: I think someone should add this to the WIKI.
Agree that the camera on the fuze is really good. I took my Kaiser to SEMA a few weeks ago and that did pretty well, but the fuze camera seems far superior.
I usually just run everything through photoshop, but I've been using photoshop for almost 10 years. I did notice the response of the Fuze camera is MUCH improved over the Tilt camera.
Yeah I got mine also on light bulb. I remember the Tilt had the same problem too.
As always, these HTC cams are not "one setting > all". The reason there are different options is because some are better for different lighting.
Auto stinks, I'll agree with you on that. For standard incandescent lighted indoor subjects, the light bulb would be the correct option (as you have stated noticed here). However, in other indoor-situations as well as larger lit areas the fluorescent (looks like a rectangle with light beams) is a better choice. I found that outdoors, the light bulb option is worse than any of the others.
In fact, my personal experience (at least with my current phone, HTC Titan 2mpix) is best results are acheived with the flourescent setting, but first aim the camera at a bright light source (sun, light bulb, etc) so it automatically lowers the auto image gain and give you more realistic color.
Here's a pic I took near Boston using this method:
Now, I know the image isn't the sharpest, but that's a function of the titan camera quality. I'm talking about the color balance. Its damned near perfect. You can probably get the same results with the fuze.
Thanks for the tip!
I'm having an issue where even the slightest movement creates a blurry picture like the camera is on nightshot (shutter open longer). Is there a way to fix that?
Phone cameras are usually horrible i never bothered with them. But my digi cam just died and i was looking for another when i decided to try the fuze cam. WOW, it is not bad at all, so much so i am deciding if i even really need to buy another digi cam.
Of course a 10mp sounds great, but without spending a dime i can have near perfect 3mp photos
Hi,
This idea is with me a long time. In general: can I use the camera in my phone for night vision.
I know cmos and ccd chips are sensitive to infrared (point a remote control at the camera). If strong IR leds are mounted in the front of the car it must be possible to see in the dark with your mobile camera on the dash.
Also in foggy conditions it might help you seeing what is in front of the car.
Probably you need to take out the internal IR cut filter (IIRCF) from the lens assembly
to let IR pass to the ccd/cmos. (http://www.dpfwiw.com/ir.htm#iirc)
Is there anyone with some experience on this matter?
I done it with my Uni a while back, it's a delicate and non-reversible process.
Thing is, you could probably use ultra bright IR LED's without removing the IR filter but for better results you need to remove the IR filter. However, in doing this you will not be able to use the camera in daylight, it will be all blury.
See:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=397844
You did find the IR filter behind the lens? Did you replace the IR glass filter with dual layer DARK film negative?
You must do this to block the visible light so only let IR through.
I don't use the camera much. I have better equipment for that
A carkit holder behind the windscreen and a few (STRONG) IR leds in the grille
of the car might give you extra sight in darkness or foggy conditions.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
When the camera app is running. Even better would be head up display but that is a little far fetched.
Was it easy to remove the fixed camera lens? I cannot screw it off and might damage it (magician phone) Looks like it is glued to keep it's (fixed) focus.
Cheers
In the link I provided I done it with a Nokia, can't remember if I done it with my Uni or not, but I should imagine it is a similar process.
Getting the back of the camera off is tricky, I just prised mine off with a small screwdriver, but like I said in the linked post don't push it in too far else you may wreck the camera. Getting the front of the camera off was also tricky, they usually just unscrew but need a fair bit of brute force, when you do get it open be careful to note which way round the sensor on the back and the lenses go!
Unfortunately I don't have my Uni up here with me atm so I don't have anything to compare to.
Yes you are right you do have to use a double layer of negative to filter out the visible spectrum.
As for the HUD, I can remember tinkering with this idea when I was trying to fit a computer into my car and the closest I came was that the brightness of the Uni's screen was such that it would reflect off my windscreen and be visible in the dark.
Last point if you are going to fit this to your car: Make sure you check out what the law is regarding IR lamps on cars not too sure if it is legal over here as some speed cameras use IR and your lamp could blur it.
All the best, keep us updated
Sweet haha, that would be something
How sweet it actually is when it is reality...
The 2000-2005 Cadillac Deville / DTS / DHS all had optional equipment that placed a night vision camera behind the grille where the Cadillac crest would normally be and had the image displayed on a heads up display on the windshield. It was about a $4000usd option.
All this time I was under the impression that it does work, I mean when you touch the screen it moves the brackets, turns them green and appears to refocus.
I did a very simple test and it seems it's not doing anything. I placed two objects, one in front of the other at different distances from the camera. The result is wherever you touch the screen, trying to focus on the object in the background, it always focuses on the foreground object.
Is this something you can confirm? Is it something rom related or is it a hardware issue?
Sent from my Nexus S
zgomot said:
All this time I was under the impression that it does work, I mean when you touch the screen it moves the brackets, turns green and appears to refocus.
I did a very simple test and it seems it's not doing anything. I placed to objects, one in front of the other at different distances from the camera. The result is wherever you touch the screen, trying to focus on the object in the background, it always focuses on the foreground object.
Is this something you can confirm? Is it something rom related or is it a hardware issue?
Sent from my Nexus S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it works on my nexus s, using the latest m9 kang and the trinity kernels. it was used for this shot..
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Yes, it works. IIRC, you need a ROM that supports it to enable touch to focus.
Here's a pic I took now:
Pretty much just helps what it should focus on than focusing on the item that's in the middle. Since you have such limited control of the camera lens, you obviously won't get much control on the depth of field like what you would see with SLR's
That's great and all but in both of those shots the foreground is in focus, which is what I always get. But say I wanted to focus on the little red car in the background (2nd picture) it could never focus.
Can you take the same picture where that red car is in focus and the bottle (?) is out of focus?
zgomot said:
That's great and all but in both of those shots the foreground is in focus, which is what I always get. But say I wanted to focus on the little red car in the background (2nd picture) it could never focus.
Can you take the same picture where that red car is in focus and the bottle (?) is out of focus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It works when I am focusing on the background and not foreground like what you were asking for. However I dont have time now to search for a picture as an example.
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
zgomot said:
That's great and all but in both of those shots the foreground is in focus, which is what I always get. But say I wanted to focus on the little red car in the background (2nd picture) it could never focus.
Can you take the same picture where that red car is in focus and the bottle (?) is out of focus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with the OP, I have placed an object about 5cm from the camera and have the background at about half a meter away. Without moving the camera, I cannot refocus on the foreground object and background object.
The above examples seem to prove otherwise but it would be more evident if each shot was taken at the EXACT angle and showing different focus.
For now, touch to focus seems to act has normal focus ...
jokkir said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah... for me it only ever focuses on the object in front...
Sent from my Nexus S
Can any other members confirm if Touch to Focus is working?
I've currently tested on my ROM (CM9 v3.4).
Yeah for some odd reason, my camera will not even focus..
Hey, can someone please help me with my camera? When taking pictures using the flashlight they always get this purple filter. This also happens with different photo apps (e.g. WhatsApp) or when recording videos.
Recording videos you see the purple effect on activating the flashlight. It quickly gets better but stays a pretty falsified.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The LED in the flash is not a constant enough light source and that invisible strobing is screwing up the cam.
blackhawk said:
The LED in the flash is not a constant enough light source and that invisible strobing is screwing up the cam.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds a bit like works as intended. I hope the camera can do better, using the flashlight?! Or is this really the expected result?
tris85 said:
That sounds a bit like works as intended. I hope the camera can do better, using the flashlight?! Or is this really the expected result?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not completely unexpected. Try a incandescent light source.
Some LEDs modulate light differently. Other ones may you not get that effect. Fluorescent lights can do a similar thing.
I don't know... play with it.
blackhawk said:
Not completely unexpected. Try a incandescent light source.
Some LEDs modulate light differently. Other ones may you not get that effect. Fluorescent lights can do a similar thing.
I don't know... play with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it works with a different (electric) light source. But I'd like the phone to work with it's own flashlight Anything I can try to make the phones flashlight work?
tris85 said:
Yeah, it works with a different (electric) light source. But I'd like the phone to work with it's own flashlight Anything I can try to make the phones flashlight work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try a different led flashlight. Try different brightness levels. Xenon flashlights use a filament.
Ask the manufacturer.
Try some different Google searches. It doesn't have to be the same make/model to apply.
So this is not a common issue with a P30? So its a warranty case?
Pulse width and otherwise modulated light sources can skew exposure, WB, and colors.
I've just tried the phones flashlight with my phone's camera and it works like a charm
tris85 said:
I've just tried the phones flashlight with my phone's camera and it works like a charm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the way the current of the flashlight is being pulse width modulated... not the cam. Some will work and some may not.
Sorry, but I really don't get your answers and recommendations. I thought this way I should check if the phones LED is broken. Since it works with other phones it obviously isn't. Or do you think they build in an LED that works with every camera sensor except then one they use in their phone?!
There are multiple things you can change. The first one might be the quality of the flashlight. Or it's bad, or you accidentally broke it without realizing it. Also, if you have a case, you should try to take some photos without it; maybe the reflection of the case is producing this violet filter. I am sure one of these two might be the problem in your case. Also, I broke my phone flashlight a while ago, and I have been using this led flashlight since then. This one is perfect if you need a solution fast and don't know what to do.
Just found the solution yesterday when changing the protective film: the preowner even but some protective film on the lens! This somehow obviously had issues with the LED flashlight. After removing it it's working now as intended
This p155 poor camera surely can't be hardware can it? i have not known a worse camera for a long time. Any shots in anything other than really good light are pretty terible. Tried in all modes, and wish I could go back to my Mate 20 Pro which wasn't the best but superior to this in low light!!
Even macro on my S6 was more useful despite being lower resolution!
Sorry for the rant, but this is the last time I'll buy samsung I think. If anyone can tell me a cheap andoid phone with better low light than this I would be greatful (I know they exist as I have seen images but can never remember what they are!).
Thanks [/rant over]
Welcome to XDA.
Post some examples of the fails.
Anything from the N9 up should be able to capture good shots especially in good condition light. Macros are a weakness because of the lense and shallow depth of field ie fast lens that can't be stopped down.
With some practice even the S4+ could grab usable macros... to a point. With a shallow dof the focus point needs to be spot on. Subject distance is also critical.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Thanks for responding Blackhawk. Thing is, I am adept at photography (long time owner of Nikon D90 which I never use in auto! but I do use my camera underground in mines that I explore, and I am comparing with other camera's (including my old mate20pro). When we take photos side by side with other friends this rarely fails to disapoint.
What I will do is take some more pics next week with a friend who has a pixel under the same light conditions for comparison
ollk said:
Thanks for responding Blackhawk. Thing is, I am adept at photography (long time owner of Nikon D90 which I never use in auto! but I do use my camera underground in mines that I explore, and I am comparing with other camera's (including my old mate20pro). When we take photos side by side with other friends this rarely fails to disapoint.
What I will do is take some more pics next week with a friend who has a pixel under the same light conditions for comparison
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Auto aperture was my primary mode many times with my Canons. Smartphones are crude cams by comparison...
Mines? You out west? Ghost towns and cold war relics too?
blackhawk said:
Auto aperture was my primary mode many times with my Canons. Smartphones are crude cams by comparison...
Mines? You out west? Ghost towns and cold war relics too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah sorry by auto I mean auto lol... Ap and shutter priority are excellent and very much have their place!
Regards mines I like in the UK. I am part of a club who looks after copper mines going back to the bronze age. We also explore mines and go spelunking a lot too!
Would love to get over to the many gold mines in the US. A friend bought one a while back for a £1 lol... Never been to the US sadly!
I will say I have been blown away by the standard set by Google and Apple in dark areas though. We had a film crew to a location recently and they had all their pro gear. When they came underground with us they used a combination of an iphone in 1080 and a gopro. They said nothing beats these cameras for video and compactness underground! I was stunned!
Just a pity I don't like Apple because combined with the lidar function you can create incredible scans/surveys of spaces!
Another thing I should add is I am very dissapointed with the extras when you swipe right. It seems you used to be able to add extra camera functions but I have not worked out how... Is it possible?