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Imate Jsjar crashes soon after disconnected from charger

My HTC universal crashes ( shuts off) after being disconnected from the charger for only a short while. I have noticed this when trying to make a telephone call and when listening to an audio book on Media.
The device is about 3 years old. The OS is Tomal version 8.5..is it an OS problem or battery problem.
I dont want to invest in a new battery if that is not the problem.

it's the battery!
It has to be the battery,see if it's bulged in the middle...means it has to be replaced.You keep using a near dead battery and one day it may leak/explode and damage your beloved Uni.Just change it.Or borrow one and see how your device performs so you can decide...

I neglected to mention that the battery shows 95 % charged when this happens. I can get back to the device if I plug it in.
Can you recommend a new battery?

rkbrouwer said:
I neglected to mention that the battery shows 95 % charged when this happens. I can get back to the device if I plug it in.
Can you recommend a new battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
95% of not much charge is still 95% charged, its the battery. If you look on Ebay you can find batteries quite reasonable, but try to go for an original one.
Jay

Is that really true? The amount that the 95% is applied to is not a fixed amount and decreases over time? If that is so what is the purpose of something that says 95% full? How can I find out what full is?
Imagine a fuel gauge like that. The size of the tank gets smaller and smaller.

Testing your battery
The only true way to test your battery is to measure its voltage. the two larger terminals on the battery are the + and _, the _ is the terminal nearest the corner. test it with a mulimeter, if it is below 3.75 volt then charge it and test again. If it drops below 3.75 volts after a short time then it is worn out. the battery bar on the screen is only a rough idea of power left.
Hope this clears this up for you
Jay

Voltage shouldn't be dropped, it will be same even if there is no charge.
The cell's inside the battery are not capable to retain the charge and immediately returns a signal to the control circuit that he is full! Control circuit then triggers an updates to the memory chip (located under control circuit).
Polling mechanism (triggers by the driver) in the device gets the battery status directly from the memory chip and it is the main reason basically getting a false percentage.
Anyway, just replace the battery and everything will be fine then.

Has anyone tried the suggestions mentioned under XDA wiki before replacing the battery. One alternative was to discharge the battery completely by freezing it and then rechargingt it. Another was to tape the two indicator terminals.

BTW what is the effect of going into "bootloader (by backlight+power+reset button)" as mentioned in solving the battery problem undeer wiki XDAI hope that it does not mean that I have reinstall Mobile 6.1

3 years is old enough for battery, i think its your time to buy a new one.
if you want to try one of that method, i suggest you trying a tape method. i try with my batery (fals indicator) and it work.
going to bootloader for drain your battery. for me i turn on wifi and blue tooth at the same time, set band to G3 and turn GPRS on, and playing music and games. it drain faster

tomal said:
Voltage shouldn't be dropped, it will be same even if there is no charge.
The cell's inside the battery are not capable to retain the charge and immediately returns a signal to the control circuit that he is full! Control circuit then triggers an updates to the memory chip (located under control circuit).
Polling mechanism (triggers by the driver) in the device gets the battery status directly from the memory chip and it is the main reason basically getting a false percentage.
Anyway, just replace the battery and everything will be fine then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
master chef tomal is right , its the ability or capacity of the battery to hold proper amperage or power. you cannot simply measure the voltage across the terminals as it will not be definitive in ascertaining such holding capacity especially for battery that is about to deteriorate its cells (not yet fully dead).
Of course, if the reading is below than the usual rating, the only logical option is for you to replace it asap. but if its within the range, you have to do further testing.. and, if you want to experiment a little, try to put a load across its terminals like an LED with 1kohm resistor, and then measure the voltage. if it drops drastically, your battery is ready for retirement However, if the voltage rating remains, measure the time your battery will be fully discharged using that load. thereafter, let me know how many hours or day it lasted to help me compute the approximate amperage of your battery, regards... :

Useful Battery Information and Calibration

Here is some information that should be useful to everyone in one way or another if not then you should have told us your secret months ago. lol
A Li-ion batteries life is on a time clock from the day it's produced and how it is used, maintained and the number of cycles it goes through reduces it's life. Even when not being used at all the clock is ticking and life is shortening.
So if any of you are like me I know many of you are far worse than me when it comes to the amount of stress put through it with flashing and extreme general use. Hopefully this will shed some light for us as to what we can do to try and prolong the life of our batteries.
The majority of the following information is from the book “Batteries in a Portable World – A Handbook on Rechargeable Batteries for Non-Engineers” (2nd edition) and Battery University™
Special thanks to the books author and sponsor of Battery University™,
Isidor Buchmann
CEO and Founder, Cadex Electronics Inc.
How to Prolong the Life of Li-ion Batteries
Battery wear-down on lithium-based batteries is caused by two activities: actual usage or cycling, and aging. The wear-down effects by usage and aging apply to all batteries but this is more pronounced on lithium-based systems.
The Li-ion batteries prefer a shallow discharge. Partial discharges produce less wear than a full discharge and the capacity loss per cycle is reduced. A periodic full discharge is not required because the lithium-based battery has no memory. A full cycle constitutes a discharge to 3V/cell. When specifying the number of cycles a lithium-based battery can endure, manufacturers commonly use an 80 percent depth of discharge. This method resembles a reasonably accurate field simulation. It also achieves a higher cycle count than doing full discharges.
Simple Guidelines
Charge the Li-ion often, except before a long storage. Avoid repeated deep discharges.
Keep the Li-ion battery cool. Prevent storage in a hot car. Never freeze a battery.
Avoid purchasing spare Li-ion batteries for later use. Observe manufacturing date when purchasing. Do not buy old stock, even if sold at clearance prices.
Hints to long battery life
3.92V/cell is the best upper voltage threshold for cobalt-based lithium-ion. Charging batteries to this voltage level has been shown to double cycle life. Lithium-ion systems for defense applications make use of the lower voltage threshold. The negative is reduced capacity.
The charge current of Li-ion should be moderate (0.5C for cobalt-based lithium-ion).The lower charge current reduces the time in which the cell resides at 4.20V. It should be noted that a 0.5C charge only adds marginally to the charge time over 1C because the topping charge will be shorter. A high current charge tends to push the voltage up and forces it into the voltage limit prematurely.
Memory Myth or Fact?
Lithium batteries are not affected by memory, but the chemistry has its own peculiarities. Current inhibiting pacifier layers affect them through plate oxidation. This degenerative effect is non-correctable on a lithium-based system
Calibration
A more serious issue is maintenance requirements, better known as capacity re-learning. This procedure is needed on a regular basis to calibrate the battery.
Why is calibration needed?
The answer is in correcting the tracking errors that occur between the battery and the digital sensing circuit during use. The most ideal battery use, as far as fuel-gauge accuracy is concerned, is a full charge followed by a full discharge at a constant 1C rate. This ensures that the tracking error is less than one percent per cycle. However, a battery may be discharged for only a few minutes at a time and commonly at a lower C-rate than 1C. Worst of all, the load may be uneven and vary drastically. Eventually, the true capacity of the battery no longer synchronizes with the fuel gauge and "a full charge and discharge are needed to ‘re-learn’ or calibrate the battery."
How often is calibration needed?
The answer lies in the type of battery application. For practical purposes, a calibration is recommended once every three months or after every 40 short cycles.
What happens if the battery is not calibrated regularly? Can such a battery be used in confidence?
Such a battery is able to function normally, but the digital readout will be inaccurate. If not corrected, the fuel gauge information simply becomes a nuisance.
Just Tell Me WTF I Should Do!
Charge your battery as often as possible, partial discharges are actually better for your battery
Once your battery is charged to 100% avoid leaving it plugged in any longer if you are not using a OEM charger.
Your battery should never get hot from charging if it does this is a sign it may be damaged.
If fuel gauge starts acting up calibrate your battery.
Yeah but how the f^$% do I calibrate my battery?
Charge phone up and then delete your battery stats.
Unplug your phone from your wall charger and let your battery drain all the way down until phone shuts off.
While still off charge phone to 100% and then boot up as normal.
There is so much more that it's mind boggling but I think this covers the main parts and beyond for everyone. So far it appears that the bump method is not necessary nor are the numerous other steps.
I can only laugh when I think that the reason the method of calibration I was using was actually working is due to the fact that the "wipe batt stats, drain battery completely and charge to 100%" is basically the last step and all that is essentially needed.

3 hours? That's it? I thought whenever I charged from empty to full when it's off it's longer.. I should time it.. hmm

darkamikaze said:
3 hours? That's it? I thought whenever I charged from empty to full when it's off it's longer.. I should time it.. hmm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I removed the time completely since some may vary. But the 3 hours is how long it should take to charge on a standalone battery charger. So rather than confuse or have questions it's better without it.

Nice work!
Charging a 1500mAh battery at 500mAh for example will take 3 hours. The Captivate charges at 2 levels though depending on if it's USB (500mAh max for charge + phone use) or a charger (whatever it says on the charger up to ~1200mAh) so it can probably get done in under 2 hours.
The phone charges to 4.23V and stops charging when full but continues to run on external power, and shuts down at 3.500V where it only consumes current to monitor the power button.
Just for reference.

Battery Stats
Since this is the first time i had a really good battery life. I would like to share it with everyone. Please see the attached screen shots.
I am using Darky's 9.1 with SuckerPunch's 1280/500 Kernel and TLJL3 modem.
I hope this will help anyone trying to get more battery life out of their Captivate.
Thanks,

CuriousTech said:
Nice work!
Charging a 1500mAh battery at 500mAh for example will take 3 hours. The Captivate charges at 2 levels though depending on if it's USB (500mAh max for charge + phone use) or a charger (whatever it says on the charger up to ~1200mAh) so it can probably get done in under 2 hours.
The phone charges to 4.23V and stops charging when full but continues to run on external power, and shuts down at 3.500V where it only consumes current to monitor the power button.
Just for reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Curious appreciate it and thanks for the additional info.

I had some other random thoughts about the calibration because I keep seeing so many posts daily.
For example "I installed a new kernel 15 minutes ago, recalibrated and the battery drain is horrible." or "After a few charges it lasted longer."
I don't think people get the idea of calibration. Recalibrating determines the capacity of the battery to convert to a % full gauge. To do that you need to fully charge until the "Battery full. Unplug charger." notification, and not rely on the display and unplugging as soon as it hits 100%. That's the inaccurate display that you're trying to calibrate.
Think of it like having an opaque container and a teaspoon. You think the container can hold 100 teaspoons, so you stop filling at 100. All you can get out of it is 100 until you try to fill until it tops off and then count how many come back out.
The phone works the same way. It has an ammeter that monitors the charge current and drain current from the battery from the time you unplug it until it shuts off and remembers that total as the capacity. Unless it's recharged in the middle which voids the data.
After that full discharge, it should stay pretty accurate even with partial discharges. At least until the next rom/kernel flash which wipes it out. At that point (I assume) it uses a simple voltage level and some relative amps drawn to display the gauge, instead of the smarter method of keeping a constant value of mAh by adding when charging and subtracting when draining to know exaclty how full the battery is.

CuriousTech said:
Nice work!
Charging a 1500mAh battery at 500mAh for example will take 3 hours. The Captivate charges at 2 levels though depending on if it's USB (500mAh max for charge + phone use) or a charger (whatever it says on the charger up to ~1200mAh) so it can probably get done in under 2 hours.
The phone charges to 4.23V and stops charging when full but continues to run on external power, and shuts down at 3.500V where it only consumes current to monitor the power button.
Just for reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hm. so if the phone switches to external power when the charge is full, is it okay to leave my phone plugged in once it's done charging? or is it just the fact that the battery is holding a full (4.2V) charge for a long time that's bad for its health?
in any case, useful post! i knew there were ways to preserve the life of li-ion batteries, but was never well-versed on the details.

Yes to both. Once the battery is fully charged, the charge circuit stops completely. It doesn't even need to trickle charge, so leaving it plugged in doesn't hurt anything.
Once the charge is complete the voltage isn't being held at 4.20V so it can come back down a little. I think BatteryUniversity generalizes becuase there have been many different designs over the years that weren't as good as what we have now, and some may have trickle charged their Li-Ions which shortens the life.

Which is it that wipes the battery stats, ROM or kernel? or is it both?

CuriousTech said:
Yes to both. Once the battery is fully charged, the charge circuit stops completely. It doesn't even need to trickle charge, so leaving it plugged in doesn't hurt anything.
Once the charge is complete the voltage isn't being held at 4.20V so it can come back down a little. I think BatteryUniversity generalizes becuase there have been many different designs over the years that weren't as good as what we have now, and some may have trickle charged their Li-Ions which shortens the life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One word of caution though is to ensure that you are using an OEM charger. Battery University recommends that you unplug once capacity is reached but perhaps this is a general statement for Li-ion batteries as you state.

zerkai said:
Which is it that wipes the battery stats, ROM or kernel? or is it both?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both. The first thing in a ROM flash script is to format all the partitions, so that means the batterstats.bin file is erased. When flashing a new kernel the file gets reset by some other means. No idea what. It could be CWM.

Yeah but how the f^$% do I calibrate my battery?
Charge phone up and then delete your battery stats.
Unplug your phone from your wall charger and let your battery drain all the way down until phone shuts off.
While still off charge phone to 100% and then boot up as normal.
My noob question is, how do you delete the battery stats?

iNFRiNGE said:
One word of caution though is to ensure that you are using an OEM charger. Battery University recommends that you unplug once capacity is reached but perhaps this is a general statement for Li-ion batteries as you state.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What happens when you introduce the variable of occasional car charger use?

Sanctus Peregrinus said:
Yeah but how the f^$% do I calibrate my battery?
Charge phone up and then delete your battery stats.
Unplug your phone from your wall charger and let your battery drain all the way down until phone shuts off.
While still off charge phone to 100% and then boot up as normal.
My noob question is, how do you delete the battery stats?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the file is located at /data/system/batterystats.bin . you'll need a file browser with root access (i use root explorer, a paid app). make sure you mount the storage as read/write or you won't be able to delete the file.
after that, reboot your phone and it will rebuild the batterystats file.
***disclaimer: be careful doing this. if you delete a crucial file, you risk messing up or bricking your phone. such is life.

Nice write up with alot of interesting information. I have never calibrated my battery but will have to try it out. Thanks for posting.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I'm not positive of this, but I don't think batterystats.bin holds any battery capacity or health info. I was looking at BatteryManager and it looks like a database of processes and what they use only. But there is info somewhere that gets lost easily, which is the capacity and current amount consumed.
I've been skipping the delete of that file (using CWM) and have noticed that it recalibrates fine anyway. This coming from the point of dropping just after unplugging, which is a good indication that the info is gone.
It doesn't matter if you use a car charger, USB, or AC. The phone has the actual smart charger in it, the external connection is just the power supply. The chip inside regulates and monitors the charge.
So think of it this way. The charger knows when the battery is empty or full, and measures what goes in and comes out. So to know the capacity, it has to go from full to empty. That's really all there is to it. Just wait for the real "Battery full" before unplugging.

[Q] How to recharge the over-discharged battery?

Hi all.
I've over-discharged my stock battery and now it doesn't charge. It lights up green as soon as I plug the charger. I've tried different chargers but didn't help.
I've made this using short circuit so don't think it's related to Sensation. You may ask why I tought over-discharging may solve the touchscreen issues. Don't know if it's solved because phone doesn't open.
Do you have any advice to restore the battery rather that getting a new battery? I've already ordered new battery though.

Certain laptop battery manufacturers use a circuit which stores battery charge information, but is itself, "kept alive" by the residual current in (even a dead) battery.
I've seen the case on a number of times that discharging below the "allowed" level causes this circuit to fail, thus the communication between battery and device is incorrect, inaccurate or, at worst, not there at all.
(this is why there are more than just + - on your battery)
You could find the correct recharge rate for the battery - current and voltage - and charge it manually, and hope that said 'battery state circuit' comes back to life, but honestly, I think you'll be, as they say, SOL.
I've had perfectly good laptop batteries, holding a full charge, having a great discharge rate, but the laptop would refuse to accept it, just because of this little circuit.
WARNING: Charging / over charging / charging in a way other than in accordance with the original device literature can VERY likely cause the battery to fail completely, including, but not limited to FIRE or EXPLOSION! DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING. LiPo (and LiIon for that matter) are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS when used wrongly!
All the above said, have fun, don't blow yourself up, and let us know how you get on. Also, from a personal point of view, I'd be interested to know the 'technical reasons' behind the thought that over-discharging could solve the touch-screen problem - can you remember where you got the info originally?

Figure_desire said:
Hi all.
I've over-discharged my stock battery and now it doesn't charge. It lights up green as soon as I plug the charger. I've tried different chargers but didn't help.
I've made this using short circuit so don't think it's related to Sensation. You may ask why I tought over-discharging may solve the touchscreen issues. Don't know if it's solved because phone doesn't open.
Do you have any advice to restore the battery rather that getting a new battery? I've already ordered new battery though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wtf? did you shortcut the battery or the phone? if shortcut the battery it my be blown. Anywyas you could try jump charging it, unplug and plug it in fast, or put it in a outlet which has a switch and try toggling it on and off for some minutes, you may be able to jump it up to the voltage it needs to start charge

niddnet said:
Certain laptop battery manufacturers use a circuit which stores battery charge information, but is itself, "kept alive" by the residual current in (even a dead) battery.
I've seen the case on a number of times that discharging below the "allowed" level causes this circuit to fail, thus the communication between battery and device is incorrect, inaccurate or, at worst, not there at all.
(this is why there are more than just + - on your battery)
You could find the correct recharge rate for the battery - current and voltage - and charge it manually, and hope that said 'battery state circuit' comes back to life, but honestly, I think you'll be, as they say, SOL.
I've had perfectly good laptop batteries, holding a full charge, having a great discharge rate, but the laptop would refuse to accept it, just because of this little circuit.
WARNING: Charging / over charging / charging in a way other than in accordance with the original device literature can VERY likely cause the battery to fail completely, including, but not limited to FIRE or EXPLOSION! DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING. LiPo (and LiIon for that matter) are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS when used wrongly!
All the above said, have fun, don't blow yourself up, and let us know how you get on. Also, from a personal point of view, I'd be interested to know the 'technical reasons' behind the thought that over-discharging could solve the touch-screen problem - can you remember where you got the info originally?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my second unit and it has touchscreen problems too. I'm not an expert but here is why I did that.
My phone was working normally and had %20 battery left. I went outside and didn't have extra battery or charger so I've used my friend's USB cable and lapto to charge it. After it reached to 44% I unplugged it and saw touchscreen issues started. I've searched and remembered some advices from XDA like discharging and charging may solve it so I gave it a try but it didn't help. Then tried over-discharging and charging but stock here.
What do you mean by charge it manually?

Utking said:
wtf? did you shortcut the battery or the phone? if shortcut the battery it my be blown. Anywyas you could try jump charging it, unplug and plug it in fast, or put it in a outlet which has a switch and try toggling it on and off for some minutes, you may be able to jump it up to the voltage it needs to start charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did short circuit the battery I know sounds crazy but I'm sick of touchscreen issues. Are you saying that I may try connecting it an appropriate charger's output directly like + > + , - > - ?

I'm saying, chances are, it's wrecked. You shouldn't really discharge batteries by short-circuit - that puts massive stresses on the structure of the cells in the battery and probably completely ruins it.
It can also cause excessive heat, which can lead to nasty things happening.
Recharging the battery by connecting + to + and - to - is theoretically possible, however, to do this SAFELY, you would need to know the manufacturer's recommended charge rate, times, voltages etc. They differ greatly.
Do it too slowly, and you just result in a very inefficient trickle-charge, which can sometimes do more harm than good....
Do it too fast - cells in the battery become gaseous, the gas vents, and you have fiery explosions... also not good.
Seriously - I would strongly recommend against playing with it. If you want to see what CAN happen when it goes wrong, YouTube it!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3o_2mwRPdw
Insane amounts of energy stored in these batteries

niddnet said:
I'm saying, chances are, it's wrecked. You shouldn't really discharge batteries by short-circuit - that puts massive stresses on the structure of the cells in the battery and probably completely ruins it.
It can also cause excessive heat, which can lead to nasty things happening.
Recharging the battery by connecting + to + and - to - is theoretically possible, however, to do this SAFELY, you would need to know the manufacturer's recommended charge rate, times, voltages etc. They differ greatly.
Do it too slowly, and you just result in a very inefficient trickle-charge, which can sometimes do more harm than good....
Do it too fast - cells in the battery become gaseous, the gas vents, and you have fiery explosions... also not good.
Seriously - I would strongly recommend against playing with it. If you want to see what CAN happen when it goes wrong, YouTube it!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yesterday I connected the battery which is stock 3.7 V to the my digital camera's charger which is 4.25 V, 0.25 A, 50-60 Hz with cables for 6 hours but didn't work. BTW, stock charger is 5V, 1 A and 50-60 Hz.
Can I try jump charge with this camera's charger? If I can, how fast should I connect and disconnect the cable?

That's exactly what I'm talking about.
It should be noted that the Sensation stock battery is LiIon, rather than LiPo, but the effects can be very similar, and just as disasterous if that happens when your battery is in the vicinity of.... anything!!!

I think it's dead mate =/ but just switch it on and off a couple of times in a second

Utking said:
I think it's dead mate =/ but just switch it on and off a couple of times in a second
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Couple of times in a second? I'm not a Flash man Or Shelden Cooper
Just tried but didn't work.

Short circuited battery? Hopefully it wasn't in the phone. Battery is dead, get Anker.

tinky1 said:
Short circuited battery? Hopefully it wasn't in the phone. Battery is dead, get Anker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already ordered stock battery. When Anker is available to Europe I will order it too.

Figure_desire said:
Already ordered stock battery. When Anker is available to Europe I will order it too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then buy the chichitek one, it's awesome and lasts just as long as the anker, if not longer, and they ship to europe! i got two chichitek batteries+ charger for 25$ usd inc shipping to norway

Power Samsung phone without battery #2

Update 23 November #1: final voltage setting.
Yesterday the battery charged again. I used up it's charge to 18%. After a night it was 17%. Today I tried to use it. I could without power supply till it dropped to about
11%. I guess the battery voltage is dropping. I connected my power supply again. Set it to 4.3 volt. Android shows that my charge is dropping. It drops to 8% and remains there.
Even running 3D game the charge stays at 8%. I measure the battery voltage and it's 0.03V. Battery Temperature normal. Not even warm.
After removing the battery and re-insert. I had to set the power supply voltage to 5.5 volt to make the phone boot at all. The phone draws a current 1.1A (there was a moment it drew 1.8A, did once) ,when I use it heavy. Like running a 3Dmark demo Icestorm. The best settings to make the phone always run: 5.5 volt on the power supply.
If all remains the same and all ok. I will then stop posting messages on this thread.
Update 23 nov 2014 #2
The battery charged to 100%. The battery voltage went to 4.4 volt. 4.2 volt supposed to be the Vmax. Above 4.2 volt is not recommended.
From this moment I cannot recommend anyone trying this home. Will see in the future if the phone can run or a dead battery. Going to drain for a longer period.
Update 22 november 2014 #1: With success I am using a my Samsung Note 3 directly connected to a lab power supply.
Needed materials Final list:
- any smart phone with a Li-ion battery which is chemically dead! Very important! This li-ion battery must show 0 volt.
- A lab power supply like this one Basetech BT-153 (https://www.conrad.nl/nl/basetech-b...c-0-3-a-45-w-aantal-uitgangen-1-x-393647.html)
- 2 small pieces of copper sheet
- any strong tape that cannot conduct electricity
- some technical skills. Ask a electrical engineer if you are not sure what you are doing!
Update 22 nov 2014 #2:
After running the 'broken' battery at 5.3 volt. The battery is chemically active again. I measure 3.9 volt. It charged back to 64%.
I am wondering if the Samsung battery and phone is able to / not able to run if the battery is broken. Perhaps the phone ran because the high voltage made the battery chemically active again. I am not sure. Going for another deep discharge again and let the battery lay on the shelf for a week. And keep it draining energy with a resistor and LED.
Have fun! Well I am =)
**********************************************************************************************
***************** I am not responsible for any damage if you follow this guide. ************
**********************************************************************************************
Work in Progress (WIP) Highly experimental. Hope to finish my research and provide a safe way for any user to make a dummy battery. And that the phone is powered by
a external powersupply only.
Remember that Li ion batteries can become extremely hot and can explode. Don't short circuit, damage the metal casing any way!
In my previous attempt, I was almost there, but at the last moment I had to give away my loyal S6312. Perhaps later I can finish it.
Previous post for S6312: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...r-samsung-phone-battery-t2923590#post56778430
- Don't dissesamble the battery. The reason is that there is an electrical protection circuit inside the li ion cell. Without the cell and protection circuit the outer electronics, that is in
the battery connector housing, it will not work and your Samsung phone will not recognise it as a working battery, and will refuse to boot.
This guide is tested on a Samsung Note 3 N9005, but if my guess is right, then you can use it for pretty much all the Samsung phones! Let's wait and see.
In this attempt, I am confident it will work. My overal plan is:
1) Get a defect battery. Completely drain it to make it chemically inactive.
2) Hook the battery , that cannot charge, onto a lab powersupply
3) Run your phone at your desk without the recharging the battery.

Inside the li ion battery is some kind of protection circuit that must be included with the electronics outside will it work. As someone else mentioned to me.
The outer electronics (right under the 4 pin connector)) + lab power supply equals no good boot.
Electronics attach back to Li ion cell equals normal boot of phone.
Conclusion: use the complete battery as a dummy. Opening a battery is not safe and / or good idea.
Edit:
From a RC car forum I heard that someone connected the power supply right onto the outside plus and minus of the battery. And that it worked.
Since a li ion battery requires a charger to charge , connecting the WORKING battery to a power supply will be bad idea.
That is the reason I am going to use a battery that can no longer be charged. Then I can safely connect it to a power supply.
At this moment I am draining my li ion battery beyond the lower voltage, to make it completely unable to charge.
My method of draining:
1) Enable exposed framework , and enable module "disablecriticalbatteryshutdown". This will prevent the phone from shutting down at 1%.
2) Use the phone till it shuts down by itself.
3) remove li ion battery, then re-insert it back into the phone.
4) try to boot. My battery was wrongly calibrated. After 2 times remove and insert, the battery gained another 10%. That means it saw 11% as critical.....
5) Repeat steps 2 - 4, until the phone does not start at all, the screen remains black.
6) connect a resistor in serial with a LED and keep using the power of the li-ion battery. You need to drain it. Or connect a bicycle lamp of 0.5W or more, that will drain it even faster.
7) Check the li ion battery voltage with a meter. The voltage should become lower then 3.2V. At certain voltage the li ion cell will not become chemicaly active again.
That means it won't charge because the voltage is too low. My cell shows 0 volt after letting it on the shelf in the very very deep dischanrged state.
Now that the battery shows 0 volt, you can safely use it! I don't know when exactly the li-ion is chemically dead. To be safe I waited to 0 volt.

Battery complete dead and tested it (success!!!!)
Today I rechecked the voltage of my broken Li-ion battery. It showed 0V. With Li-ion batteries this means the battery can no longer start the chemical process that enables it to charge.
I attached the plus and minus to the cell plus and minus. Watch out that you do not cause a short circuit. One of the li-ion connections is a small island. At this small island you can cause a short circuit very easy. Just use tape around the island to prevent any problems. I did not connect it to the outside 4 pin connector. There is hardly any place to place a copper plate between it. So I hooked it onto my power supply. Set the voltage to 3.8V. The phone starts, but reboots endlessy. But that changed when the voltage was set higher, the phone could boot further. Only when I set the voltage to 5.3, measured at the cell connectors, the phone boots normally. I have no idea why.
Any lower voltage and the phone refuses to go beyond the first samsung N9005 boot screen and restarts endlessy.
As a precaution I used my infrared temperature gun and checked the temperature of the battery. It stays at about 30~35 degrees. It's stable.
It's running a game for 10 minutes now.
So, I succeeded in powering my Samsung Note 3 directly from a power supply! Awesome. I will make a video of my final setup.
So that you can see.
Video of my Samsung Note 3 on power supply: http://youtu.be/cqClM6Rlblc
Final Update #2: It seems that the li-ion battery is not dead yet. After 1 hour the phone charged to 2%. I checked the battery voltage and it is 3.9V again. So it seems that 1 or 2 days of 0 volt is not enough to kill the battery completely. I thought it was dead, because I measured 0 volt and because I could not charge the dead battery through USB. I urge you to be carefull and monitor if the battery is truly dead. I will start my deep charge cycle again and keep it on the shelf for 1 week. After that I will check again if the battery is destroyed or not.

What worked for me, on a Galaxy S4 mini (the note3 is still "too young" to get immolated on the altar of science) was to remove the battery electronics, solder two leads on the back plate of said electronics where there is continuity with + and - contacts, and by giving 4.2V the phone boots showing 88% charge.
Maximum observed current draw was 1.2A during installation and run of Antutu.

HTC ONE S battery BJ40100 measurement

Hi,
I have a HTC One S and I'm not able to switch it on. The only reaction is when charging - LED shines orange. I read about this problem and that it's probably broken, but still I wanted to try some things. Would it be possible that the battery is completely broken, because the LED keeps shining orange, and therefore the phone cannot boot? I wanted to measure the capacity of the battery with a multimeter, but I can't find the data sheet for the battery, so does anybody have a datasheet or knows which pins I have to use? Or is it senseless? This is the battery: https://www.amazon.de/BJ40100-Original-HTC-Akku-1650mAh/dp/B00CJI6VAE
Thanks in advance,
cr0w

just try the pins in different combination, if you are measuring volts you can't damage the battery. If battery is too low it is possible that phone can not start charging it, but it also mean the battery can be worn out. Once I was able to jump start a battery that was too low by applying around 4 volts (not more) with a power supply for around a minute, but you have to be careful as Li Ion batteries tend to explode if not treated well