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Hi, I've been using an audio adapter from PocketPCTechs (http://www.pocketpctechs.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=PPCPADPT01) with my XDA 2... However, the microphone doesn't work with this. Even if I plug in a regular mono-headset with microphone, that part doesn't work.
So I thought I'd cut the stereo headphones off of the headset that's included and wire that up to a cassette player adapter. My problem is that the wires going to the headset speakers are coated with some kind of paint along with a fiber which makes it very difficult to make a connection with the wires in the cassette player adapter. I took it to an electronics repair shop to see if they could solder a 3.5mm female audio plug to that end, but they said they couldn't because of those types of wires.
Has anyone had success in modifying the included stereo headset to play through a car stereo while also retaining microphone functionality (for Voice Command or Phone calls)??
You will need to crimp some metal contacts onto the wires to make a good electrical conection, but you MUST do your soldering onto the crimps first otherwise you will just melt the wires off of the crimp,
The wires are special lightweight metal coated plastic filament designed to reduce weight and enhance audio since HF signals only travel in the outer edge or a wire
i used a stanley knife blade to carefully scrape the plastic off but the metal is so thin it just crumbles away and the solder connection doesnt stick that well to it either the stuff is just like factory made and this kinda stops you modding it what i done was use a 3310 h/f kit and cut that up and solder a 3.5mm end to it worked great
gaz
Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?
Jargon said:
Does anybody know the assignments of the 4 conductors of the XDA II headset plug? I'm guessing that the tip of the plug is for the left speaker, the next conductor is for the right speaker, the next is for the microphone, and the last is the ground connection. Is this correct?
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No it isn't, the connector at the bottem is the same as the XDA 1 : http://www.xda-developers.com/connectors
On the XDA 1 audio out worked simultaneously with the internal speaker and mic. On the MDA/XDA 2 audio is rerouted to the bottemconnector if you ground Pin_19... The internal speaker and mic wil be disabled.
btw. i sucesfully managed to solder the previously mentioned wires... I went as far as opening a Nokia 8110 headset, rewire it internally and close the mic again You should carefully tin the wires before soldering them...
i recently did this also
when i bought my phone from t-mobile, i had my friend who works there huck me up with a extra usb sync cable
the connection that connects to the phone has 2 philips screws on it. if ur careful enough u can take it all apart to the point of getting to the pins / wires
the usb cable with the power inlet on the back of it up by the xda connector, has enough wires in it to cover you for audio left and right and mic + if u use a common ground (1 ground across all 3 connections)
this is important to know when your alpine cva-1004 uses a common ground and wont engage the video unless all 3 wires are grounded
anyways... i was able to use a ginsu kitchen steak knife (sharpest knife i had) to cut away the rubber shielding on the actual wires holding the wires to the pins. otherwise u could use ur soldering iron and just burn threw it, just try not to breath it in.
then u just un solder the wires, reroute them to the right pins. if u want, use some hot glue to seal them back up, but if u solder them strait enough, the casing will protect it enough
then clip off the usb end, i took a spare component PS2 video cable, the wires were thin enough to integrate nicly into the usb cable, clip that, strip it, solder those in. clean everything up with some black electrical tape and ur done
mine ? my alpine cva-1004 has a remote mute wire. plug the phone into the aux in on the radio in the car, run a mic cable and audio cables (or use speaker phone) and u have the closest thing to a in car cell phone.
also works nicly for listening to mp3s in the car, but my xm satelite radio has that pretty nicly covered
just my 2 cents, but its not hard. i didnt wanna screw up the cables, so it took me about 2 hours in total to do a nice job.
-Mario
oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
purpose of flux ? it makes the iron slippery to the point where it will hold solder (in liquid form) but once the solder touches the wires, release it from the iron
its like non stick spray for soldering irons
you may also be able to put the flux on the wire / connection itself, but iv never done that. little flux on the tip of the iron should help alot
non leaded flux id suggest, but if u dont know what flux is or hot of a iron u should use, u probably shouldnt be doing this project
-Mario
2GMario said:
oh yeah, FLUX is key. it may also be called tin, but iv allways known it as flux.
dip the tip of the soldering iron in the flux, then get some solder onto it
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Tin = solder, sorry i'm Dutch Didn't use anything else, no flux.
A lot of ppl just stick two wires together and try to fill the gaps with solder
This might 'work' with relatifly thick copperwires, but not with these...
Put some solder on the wires before soldering them together.
Hi.........i wana share some info about electrical wiring.
Copper is supposed to be one of the most ancient metals having excellent properties, making it the most widely used metal across the globe. The thickness, width and length of copper can be modified as per the required needs. Copper wire is ductile, highly conductive, corrosion resistant and less vulnerable to electromechanical. These properties of copper make it suitable for electrical wiring.
plz share urs info regrading copper wire used in electrical wiring,
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
fredo490 said:
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
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Click to collapse
In the service manual it descripted as "Can Assembly,Shield" and the clips of it named as "SMT Boss / Screw / Shield can frame"
The best person to ask would be @AdamOutler. Can you give any insight?
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
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Click to collapse
So it is a copper tape, thanks for the info. But why is the color so "yellow"? It doesn't actually look like copper.
There is still a thing that I don't understand: the hot spot should be the CPU, why not contacting it to the die casting instead of the shielding cover ?! To me, there is something that doesn't really make sense in this design.
Edit: interesting enough, it seems that the LG G3 uses the same concept (cf. enclosed). Die casting in the middle with this "gold" tape on the shielding cover. It seems to be a reference design for LG.
AdamOutler said:
Woven copper tape is both thermally and electrically conductive. Its been a while since I looked inside mine, so I don't really remember it.
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We use this stuff at work for RF gaskets for EMC. Here's an example: LeaderTech SF030PCU-CA
My guess is that it's to complete the EMI shield around the cutouts for the SoC and the couple of other parts poking through. Look at the mill-out where the PCB sits on the chassis for the SoC. By doing this, they can shave off a mm or two on the phone.
Those schematics are funny though.. Ground connected to pin 1... 25 times
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Click to collapse
Those are all the ground points on the board that aren't part of components. Like screw holes, friction ground contacts, and the shield can. Standard stuff to throw odds and ends that don't make sense elsewhere in the schematic on a single page. On some of the stuff I work on, with hundreds of 11x17 pages for a single board, it's not uncommon to have pages dedicated to holes, bypass caps, and mechanical stuff, all with no regard to pin numbers.
fredo490 said:
So it is a copper tape, thanks for the info. But why is the color so "yellow"? It doesn't actually look like copper.
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Click to collapse
Probably some sort of alloy, nickel/copper. See the link above. Pure copper would corrode too easily.
There is still a thing that I don't understand: the hot spot should be the CPU, why not contacting it to the die casting instead of the shielding cover ?! To me, there is something that doesn't really make sense in this design..
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Click to collapse
Ah, a common misconception about chip packaging.
High power chips like PC CPUs need a lot of heat pulled away from them quickly, and the most efficient way is by facing the back of the die away from the package PCB so a heatsink can be slapped on top. These always are left open-top or have a heat spreader of some sort.
But for most chips, the back of the die is bonded to the package PCB (or leadframe) and bond wires used to jumper the die to the package. For chips that need to be cooled, there are dozens or hundreds of vias in the package PCB (metal plated holes through the PCB) and BGA pads on the other sides of the vias. These are called thermals, and conduct heat from the chip die to pads on the BGA. If you look at the back of a typical BGA, these show up as a separated square array of pads in the middle.
The designer of the PCB that uses this chip will design in thermals between the BGA thermal pads and the ground layer(s). The ground layers are nearly solid sheets of copper, and the thermal vias let it act as a heat spreader.
Also, the SoC in the N5 is a multi-chip package (MCP) and has a second BGA with the DRAM sitting on top of the Snapdragon BGA. The Snapdragon BGA PCB has solder balls on top that make contact with the DRAM BGA. It's all covered in rich creamy epoxy, which isn't all that good at conducting heat.
All this leads up to the top of the Snapdragon 800 package being the least useful place to try pulling away heat.
pokey9000 said:
Those are all the ground points on the board that aren't part of components. Like screw holes, friction ground contacts, and the shield can. Standard stuff to throw odds and ends that don't make sense elsewhere in the schematic on a single page. On some of the stuff I work on, with hundreds of 11x17 pages for a single board, it's not uncommon to have pages dedicated to holes, bypass caps, and mechanical stuff, all with no regard to pin numbers.
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Click to collapse
Believe me, I've worked with plenty of schematics before. I just find it funny that they would label chasis ground as pin 1. Generally that's just ground. Someone obviously had too much time on their hands, considering its an EM shield being called pin 1.
AdamOutler said:
Believe me, I've worked with plenty of schematics before. I just find it funny that they would label chasis ground as pin 1. Generally that's just ground. Someone obviously had too much time on their hands, considering its an EM shield being called pin 1.
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I think it depends on the EDA tool and the whim of the library maintainer. From the little symbol creation I've done in KiCAD I think pin number visibility can be turned off for a symbol. I'm looking right now at one of our designs, and half the page is plated drill holes, each numbered pin 1. What's better, on the same page is a single high current screw terminal with 4 leads holding it to the board. It's one solid piece of metal, but the symbol shows pins 1-4.
fredo490 said:
Dear all,
I have spent some time disassembling my Nexus 5 and I found that the shielding cover that faces the die-casting has a strange "gold" tape on it (cf. picture enclosed).
I am curious, does anyone know what is it ? Is it a "high" thermal conductivity material that send the heat to the die-casting ? Or is is electrically non-conductive material that avoid leakage ?
I am a bit concerned because if it is for heat transfer, why not putting something on the CPU too ?
Thx for your feedbacks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Going slightly off topic, but could you say if there's something such as a warranty sticker when you open your Nexus to tell that it has been opened?
Thanks in advanced.
ImSoBored said:
Going slightly off topic, but could you say if there's something such as a warranty sticker when you open your Nexus to tell that it has been opened?
Thanks in advanced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't find any warranty sticker in mine. However, it is quite obvious to find if the device has been opened because of the tape holding the back cover. It is almost impossible to open and close it without "damaging" the tape.
fredo490 said:
I didn't find any warranty sticker in mine. However, it is quite obvious to find if the device has been opened because of the tape holding the back cover. It is almost impossible to open and close it without "damaging" the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, guess I'll have to wait till my warranty is gone. Still more than one year to go... Thanks btw
While soldering a new power button ribbon cable to my mainboard I accidentally bumped one of my NFC antenna pogo pins and soldered it solid.
As expected all attempts at soldering it only added more solder. I have ripped apart a stash of phones I had laying around and found a few pogo pins in them all too large.
Here you can see an image of the mainboard along with some example pogo pins.
something of similar size or a suitable method to make nfc great again would be cool!
http://imgur.com/a/eNSfA
Thanks for your efforts to help!
New batteries for the XDA Exec/JasJar are not available anymore, so I want to try to equip my old battery with new cells.
I found a suitably thin pair of 3.7v Lipo batteries as a replacement.
I managed to open the old battery and remove the old cells without incident.
The question is now: should I remove the old battery management sysmte I found inside or use the new cells with their own BMS?
The old battery has four contacts, positive, negative, one thermistor and a status indicator.
The new cells I have only have two contacts, positive and negative.
Will the phone work with the middle contacts not being connected? If I remove the BMS of the new cells and connect them to the old BMS, the cells are a different capacity. Would that matter?
You want the thermistor to monitor battery temperature. The power controller may puke all over you without that input and go into default mode. Whatever that is.
Charge state is voltage based so if the cell voltage ratings are the same as the OEM ones it should work. If you solder to the cells you better be quick and proficient at soldering with a temp controlled iron 45-85 watts (I go for 650-720F) and 63/37 flux core solder. Pre-tin any wires...
I soldered the new cells to the old BMS and it's working fine.
The soldering wasn't quick though. The solder was very reluctant to sticking to the metal strips, despite me roughing them up with sand paper and using extra flux. Any suggestions of how to make solder stick more readily?
Is the cell potentially unsafe now? Is there a much higher risk that it will spontaneasly burst into flames?
You should pre tin it. I will aggressively rub the tinned iron tip* on the surface with lots of rosin flux to get it to tin. OK to use excess solder and allow it to drip off as it carries away the contaminants. Allow to cool. On problem surfaces I'll waste a lot of solder just to get them to tin. Got to go with the flow... did production soldering for decades
Once both surfaces are pre tinned then solder. 37/63 solder works best; lower melting point, flows better.
You're probably ok as long as there's no noticable or battery bulging. Maybe do a test cycle or two with the cover loose to test it and make sure the thermistor is still reasonably accurate.
*greatly reduces tip lifespan. Normally you avoid do this. I reccomend using at least a 65 watt iron to overcome the battery's heat sinking capacity. Lower btu's mean unwanted excessive heating of the battery due to excessive heating time. Sometimes bumping up the iron temperature yields a faster solder joint but speed is of essence. Loitering with the heat more then a few seconds is to be avoided. Using the right size/shape tip can increase the heat transfer and help to minimize contact time. Sanding is normally never used to clean solder surfaces in electronics. It may make it harder. Make sure the surface doesn't have a conformal coating, if so remove it first. Brillo pad to clean tips of burnt build up; they don't cut into the tip plating on the tinned zone (destroying them).
I use tips that have a large tinned zone as smaller zones (measured from tip back) will foul much quicker as the burst rosin accumulates no matter how often you wet sponge it and well you keep them tinned.
Get as much tip surface area on the zone to be solder as possible at the get. Soldering is a skill/art that requires practice to learn.
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
Renate said:
Even aluminum solders easily. Except aluminum oxide doesn't.
Apply oil, sandpaper it, solder through the oil.
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Interesting. Cool trick if it works.
Never had to play with that much. Cheap steel lead electronic components are a pain.
Apparently using a very high tin content solder helps, but any zinc chloride if used must be completely removed. Check its melting point first...
Also immediately after soldering quench the battery with a damp cloth to cool it more rapidly.
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
naujoks said:
Any kind of oil? Sunflower oil?
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Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
Renate said:
Lol, I just did a check of my assertion.
I used spray canola oil from the dollar store.
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Rosin flux is the O2 sheild when soldering... and it won't permeate into the display. Just use liquid or paste rosin flux and Emery cloth, etc.