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Totally bricked Qtek 9100

Hi everyone,
First I would like to apologize if I have posted this topic in the wrong section, but I'm not familiar with forums and stuff like that. If so, I beg of you to just move my topic, don't lock it.
Here's my problem now: I have a Qtek 9100 on which I tried about one year ago to install a non-official WM6 ROM. I first installed a WM5 ROM called "Wizard Love" and then installed the WM6 ROM. Since I didn't like the WM6 ROM on my Qtek, I downgraded it back to the WM5 Wizard Love ROM. But I still wanted to install the official WM5 ROM again.
I tried about ten different ROMs, but each says "ERROR [300] UNCOMPATIBLE DEVICE" and won't flash my device. A member of another forum taught me to install a Custom 1.05 ROM via MUN RUU, but he did not specify that this ROM was for G3 (mine was unfortunately a (perfectly CID Unlocked) G4).
So, after flashing the 1.05 ROM, the Qtek freezed on the welcome screen (with a cup of beer). I tried to flash the original ROM then, using the bootloader mode, but I had the same errors as before. Only the 1.05 Custom ROM could be flashed correctly.
Then, I pulled out the battery and put it in again. And now... my device won't turn on at all! I've been looking for a solution all day long on Google and this forum, and I heard about the JTag. But I couldn't find a tutorial that explains it correctly.
Can anyone help me find one or suggest another solution?
Thanks a lot for your precious help! I need my Qtek back alive!

Have a deep read here:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HTC_Wizard
You´ll find your way!
Good luck,

Thanks, but I've already specified that I cannot access the bootloader, the phone won't turn on at all, it's completely dead. Neither the screen nor the LEDs turn on. The procedures described in your link are only available for phones that do boot at least in bootloader mode.

the only way is by using JTAG, but you have found one of the threads out there already (as I have seen your post there).
no other way possible.

Yes I know... the only problem is, the link points to a russian tutorial.
Do YOU speak russian?

Raptor.X said:
Yes I know... the only problem is, the link points to a russian tutorial.
Do YOU speak russian?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Enough to understand the manual with help from my friend google translate (if I fail to understand something).
But Russian isn't the biggest hurdle, if you don't know how to read the circuit diagram from the wiggler (which is REALLY simple), nor can you build such a simple constriction, how on earth are you going to connect the JTAG ??
(attached a closeup from a 5 x 3.5 mm piece of PCB where JTAG lines are hand soldered to make my case).
Without the proper tools (I personally prefer to use a rework station and a microscope) and the proper experience you won't come far.
This is why HTC service team will replace the mainboard, they aren't even trained to preform a JTAG. (that is only done by the engineers and in factory), I haven't seen a single HTC service manual which discussed JTAG (and I have seen alot of them).

I guess you're right about the difficulty of this operation.
I've already tried to Google Translate the "manual" (which was a forum discussion. Could you give me the link of yours, because from what I've translated, I think I turned out to be on a bad page).
About the circuit, I understood about everything, except the rectangle on the center and what's inside, and the branch in the upper right corner...
Two last questions: Should I connect the Qtek motherboard to the circuit with melted copper strings (like you did)? and then connect the parallel port to the PC and start using H-Jtag?
Thanks for you reply.

Raptor.X said:
I guess you're right about the difficulty of this operation.
I've already tried to Google Translate the "manual" (which was a forum discussion. Could you give me the link of yours, because from what I've translated, I think I turned out to be on a bad page).
About the circuit, I understood about everything, except the rectangle on the center and what's inside, and the branch in the upper right corner...
Two last questions: Should I connect the Qtek motherboard to the circuit with melted copper strings (like you did)? and then connect the parallel port to the PC and start using H-Jtag?
Thanks for you reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rectangle in the middle is a simple 244 buffer, it's an integrated circuit.
Branch Right top is supply.
This probably is a wiggler JTAG.
Regarding the manual, I grabbed it from the same site (am on a different computer now, without access to the files) .
You should be able to Solder the wires to the mainboard (it's not melted copper).
The picture posted above was soldered by hand with a needle soldering-Iron (but I prefer a rework station).
You need some skill to solder, and the right equipment, using the wrong Iron would ruin the board, as you can see in the Pic, all parts are really tiny (the wires eg. are 0.20 mm in diameter!!)
EqX

Possible Idea to fix death grip issue

I have had a idea about this for weeks and the soultion
http://www.maplin.co.uk/conductive-pen-33837?tabid=1&criteria=usb&c=so&u=strat15
As This pen is used to re-place broken conductive tracks on circuit boards etc
(for those want to know exactly what its for, read on the site)
my idea is to coat the back of the plastic where the wifi and gsm aerial's make contact with the board to amplify the signal, instead of the little tracks that htc have provided.
But my problem is finding a video showing the camera area removed without damaging it (where the wifi arial is)
I have been in the gsm repair trade for years, and i take this idea from the old nokia 3210's and the aerial's on those which used to just clip of and where the same idea.

bleach1 said:
I have had a idea about this for weeks and the soultion
http://www.maplin.co.uk/conductive-pen-33837?tabid=1&criteria=usb&c=so&u=strat15
As This pen is used to re-place broken conductive tracks on circuit boards etc
(for those want to know exactly what its for, read on the site)
my idea is to coat the back of the plastic where the wifi and gsm aerial's make contact with the board to amplify the signal, instead of the little tracks that htc have provided.
But my problem is finding a video showing the camera area removed without damaging it (where the wifi arial is)
I have been in the gsm repair trade for years, and i take this idea from the old nokia 3210's and the aerial's on those which used to just clip of and where the same idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i remember someone saying that the heated their phone to remove the cover near the camera (not sure how he did it)
you might want to try the software fix that is already available,many people said that their problem has been fixed after applying the software fix
but if you manage to open it can you report if there is any improvement in the signal attenuation in dbm?(using some app like wifi analyzer)
edit:found a video but how to open the back is not shown...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfCgPHw47Ho

There was another thread in this forum (can't find it now) written months back where someone was trying and achieved successes removing back off phone, as you say by heating the phone to melt glue
Sent from my HTC Desire S using XDA App

Hi I've looked at numerous videos,but none show removing the top,and I don't want to heat up my beloved phone!!
I'll flash a new Rom,radio and kernel tonite,then the software fix and see how it goes,unless one of the custom time already have it included,and report back
BR

bleach1 said:
Hi I've looked at numerous videos,but none show removing the top,and I don't want to heat up my beloved phone!!
I'll flash a new Rom,radio and kernel tonite,then the software fix and see how it goes,unless one of the custom time already have it included,and report back
BR
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that you'll find that most of the Custom ROMS have the wifi fix already in them.
This was the other thread that I remember reading before, hope it is of help..

ben_pyett said:
I think that you'll find that most of the Custom ROMS have the wifi fix already in them.
This was the otThouher thread that I remember reading before, hope it is of help..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thought they would cheers

Right i'm now on
coredroid desire s v1.1
radio 38.03.02.11_m (FLASHED SEPERATLY)
and mdj's kernel
I flashed v2 of the wifi fix after installing all of the above (even if the rom all ready instaled it) and i'm happy with result,even in the death grip i have 1 bar and that will do me fine,so no need to open up the phone
hope this helps any one out there
BR

Possible to flash radio / rom / anything with broken USB?

After I got my skyrocket, many of my friends and family also decided on the skyrocket Well, now it's up to me to make sure they're all in working order.
So one of my family members left her skyrocket in a bag of water for a while while she was at the beach, and it was completely unresponsive. I fully disassembled it (not my first time), dried out the majority of the water, then left the phone in rice for a few days. The good news is, the phone boots up and seems to work. The battery still works and it charges over USB.
The bad news is, the cellular radio does not work, IMEI comes up as unknown, bluetooth mac is "unavailable", front facing camera is also unresponsive. Really bad news: data/adb over usb does not register at all. A few more days in rice haven't helped.
The phone is completely stock. My first thought was that flashing a new radio might reset the cellular somehow, but not having cwm/odin makes that impossible. I can't seem to get the phone into download mode either because of the USB problem.
One thing that DOES work is the stock recovery. I can tell it to flash the official ATT ICS build, which contains a radio!
However when I try flashing it says.. "E: Short write of /tmp/sideload/package.zip (No space left on device) Installation aborted". Other zips "failed to verify whole-file signature"
Any ideas? My next step will be buying a used skyrocket with a cracked screen, and transplanting the working screen from this unit...
Tom

First off, please use the Q&A section for, you know, questions and answers. Don't create a new thread; I'm going to ask the mods to move this one instead.
Second, your issue is that the hardware radio is dead. The stock ROM only has a software radio included. To put it a different way, the stock ROM includes programming that tells the cell radio what to do. It can't fix the cell radio if it's broken, though. Unfortunately, based on the amount of damage you've got there, I'd say your phone is pretty much toast.
If you're completely stock, try to warranty it out. Just be up front with Sammy about what happened (because, in this instance, they will figure it out if you make up a story or play dumb), and the worst thing they can say is no. You might get a sympathetic rep who'll help you out. If they won't take it, you've already got your backup plan in the working SR.

T.J. Bender said:
First off, please use the Q&A section for, you know, questions and answers. Don't create a new thread; I'm going to ask the mods to move this one instead.
Second, your issue is that the hardware radio is dead. The stock ROM only has a software radio included. To put it a different way, the stock ROM includes programming that tells the cell radio what to do. It can't fix the cell radio if it's broken, though. Unfortunately, based on the amount of damage you've got there, I'd say your phone is pretty much toast.
If you're completely stock, try to warranty it out. Just be up front with Sammy about what happened (because, in this instance, they will figure it out if you make up a story or play dumb), and the worst thing they can say is no. You might get a sympathetic rep who'll help you out. If they won't take it, you've already got your backup plan in the working SR.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Meant to post this in Q&A, woops. Too many xda tabs open trying to figure this out. Sorry about that
I do know the difference between the hardware/software radios... My thought was that while the phone was turned on and submerged, the software radio could have become corrupt... A long shot perhaps
I'll try contacting samsung, but somehow I doubt they'll cover it. Sidenote, do you really think they have a more sophisticated way to check for water damage than the internal water-damage indicator sticker?
The question still stands though, if anyone is interested. Even without a cell radio, I'd like to be able to root it for other purposes
Thanks for the advice
Tom

dutchthomas said:
Meant to post this in Q&A, woops. Too many xda tabs open trying to figure this out. Sorry about that
I do know the difference between the hardware/software radios... My thought was that while the phone was turned on and submerged, the software radio could have become corrupt... A long shot perhaps
I'll try contacting samsung, but somehow I doubt they'll cover it. Sidenote, do you really think they have a more sophisticated way to check for water damage than the internal water-damage indicator sticker?
The question still stands though, if anyone is interested. Even without a cell radio, I'd like to be able to root it for other purposes
Thanks for the advice
Tom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, based on the amount of things going wrong, it's hardware. If the software radio was corrupt, it would be because the internal storage had been corrupted, and your phone likely would not boot.
And yes, they can find water damage beyond the sticker. They can see corrosion plain as day when they open it up and look at the internals.
You can root it without USB working. Is your wifi working? If so, download GooManager off the market, then follow the instructions in the TWRP thread to get TWRP on your phone. Download a custom ROM to your PC, then transfer it to your external SD using an adapter/card reader so you can place it on the card directly (instead of going through the USB port). Use TWRP to flash the pre-rooted ROM onto your phone and viola. Unless there's a pre-rooted stock out there (and I don't think there is for SR), a custom ROM is the only way I can think of to do it.
Be advised, though, that because of the amount of damage done to your phone's internals, there's a better-than-normal chance that something won't work and you'll brick. I'm not responsible for your decisions or for the brick if that happens.
Long story short, just get a replacement SR.

Same thing happened to my girls Atrix. She gave it a nice bath in Green Tea. After shutting it down and pulling it apart I gave it the rice treatment for 48 hours. Booted but returned a radio error. Her USB port was working so I was able to root it and install a few custom ROMs on it. No change. So I would bet you actually fried the chip. Call Sammi and get a quote to cover the repair which will be a new mobo. They pay shipping both ways and are usually pretty cheap.

hechoen said:
Same thing happened to my girls Atrix. She gave it a nice bath in Green Tea. After shutting it down and pulling it apart I gave it the rice treatment for 48 hours. Booted but returned a radio error. Her USB port was working so I was able to root it and install a few custom ROMs on it. No change. So I would bet you actually fried the chip. Call Sammi and get a quote to cover the repair which will be a new mobo. They pay shipping both ways and are usually pretty cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, this is my mother's phone actually. First she ripped the screen ribbon cable on a nokia E75. Then she smashed her Atrix's screen, tried to fix it herself with a new screen, and managed to rip part of a ribbon cable... so it no longer has a working touch digitizer. Now she left her skyrocket in a bag of water. The girlfriend managed to crack her skyrocket's screen, which I replaced... I've also had to fix 2x nokia N95's, an N97, and a bunch of water damaged dumb phones over the years...
FWIW, the skyrocket seems to have the best repairability / internal layout of any of the phones I've messed with
The cracked screen skyrockets on ebay seem to be going for more than I thought, so I'll be giving sammy a call for sure

[Q] Hardware Radio Issues with Nexus 5

I got a Nexus 5 off a friend for a decent price because he dropped it and bent it up a bit. After giving it a quick look, the only thing that seemed damaged was the black little coax wire that connects the main board to the board on the bottom (Assuming it goes to the antenna), The end simply got bent off. This was an easy fix, replace the cable no worries. The real problem is when I went to go test the phone after I fixed the cable, it doesn't get any cellular signal (Wifi/BT still works), draws a crazy amount of power and the 'Qualcomm WTR1605L' chip specifically gets extremely hot, to the point of overheating in like 30 mins. Rather than tossing a bunch of money into replacement components (or getting another nexus 5 with a bad screen or something) I'd prefer to narrow down the problem to one specific component. This leads to my question:
Does anybody have any ideas to how I can further troubleshoot and diagnose this problem, or knows what the problem exactly is?
I have tried a few things, like if I flash the LG G2 radio (A trick I learned I could do with my Nexus 4/LGOG, after backing up my EFS just in case), Wifi and Bluetooth still work while Cellular, GPS and most of the other sensors do not. This stops the big power draw and overheating issue, but doesn't really do anything to further identify the problem component. I noticed that the modem image could be mounted as vfat and you can mess around with the various parts of the image. I don't know which files do what, so I have thus far left it alone.
I know this seems like an odd question to ask here, half the time I see responses like "Send it into Google/LG and have them fix it for you" but that isn't really applicable in my situation
Also, I know that my SIM is good, it works in my Nexus 4, I know that my ROM isn't a issue, because I have multirom installed and tried many different roms. The Radio image shouldn't be an issue because I had updated the phone from 4.4 to 4.4.4/L Preview since I got it (Using the google images and flashall script). IMEI/Whatever the ESN equivalent shouldn't be bad, my friend had been using it before he dropped it.
Thanks in advanced for any ideas, and sorry for the long and comprehensive almost to a fault thread.

dtalley11 said:
After giving it a quick look, the only thing that seemed damaged was the black little coax wire that connects the main board to the board on the bottom (Assuming it goes to the antenna), The end simply got bent off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropping a phone can sometimes cause invisible damage (like BGA solder joints failing). Visual inspection can only tell you so much.
dtalley11 said:
This was an easy fix, replace the cable no worries. The real problem is when I went to go test the phone after I fixed the cable, it doesn't get any cellular signal (Wifi/BT still works), draws a crazy amount of power and the 'Qualcomm WTR1605L' chip specifically gets extremely hot, to the point of overheating in like 30 mins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to build small electronic projects when I was a kid. When something overheated like that, 90% of the time it was a short or a the wrong value of component. It's possible the drop caused the antenna connector to short out. Try disconnecting the antenna cable and try again with the stock radio firmware and see if the radio continues to overheat.
(I'm not sure how flashing the radio would prevent overheating, unless the original firmware simply turned up the transmit power in an effort to contact the tower, but that's my first guess and should an easy thing to eliminate).

ScottyPcGuy_03 said:
I used to build small electronic projects when I was a kid. When something overheated like that, 90% of the time it was a short or a the wrong value of component. It's possible the drop caused the antenna connector to short out. Try disconnecting the antenna cable and try again with the stock radio firmware and see if the radio continues to overheat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for replying! When I get home I will give it a shot and see if it still overheats, then update this with my findings.

If it is overheating then it must hardware issue. Worst case is that the PBC board has a crack somewhere because of the bent. Grab the service manual from the general forum and start mesuring the components to find out where is the problem.

bitdomo said:
If it is overheating then it must hardware issue. Worst case is that the PBC board has a crack somewhere because of the bent. Grab the service manual from the general forum and start mesuring the components to find out where is the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, thanks. Something like that should be a sticky. For future reference/making sure we're on the same page, I found the thread here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/general/service-manual-d821-t2791303

dtalley11 said:
Ah, thanks. Something like that should be a sticky. For future reference/making sure we're on the same page, I found the thread here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/general/service-manual-d821-t2791303
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that is it.

ScottyPcGuy_03 said:
I used to build small electronic projects when I was a kid. When something overheated like that, 90% of the time it was a short or a the wrong value of component. It's possible the drop caused the antenna connector to short out. Try disconnecting the antenna cable and try again with the stock radio firmware and see if the radio continues to overheat.
(I'm not sure how flashing the radio would prevent overheating, unless the original firmware simply turned up the transmit power in an effort to contact the tower, but that's my first guess and should an easy thing to eliminate).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to overheat with our without the antenna cables on the stock radio. I noticed that it still gets warmer than it should with the G2 radio, it just takes a lot longer.
That service manual is really comprehensive but unfortunately, it is going to take me some time to actually get to looking it over closely.

[Q&A] WiFi stuck on turning on; MAC 02:00:00:00:00:00; G2 G3 G4 G5 Nexus5 Nexus 7 etc

[Q&A] WiFi stuck on turning on; MAC 02:00:00:00:00:00; G2 G3 G4 G5 Nexus5 Nexus 7 etc
Hi!
If you are reading this now, you are probably one of the unlucky fellows who's WiFi (and Bluetooth) stopped functioning, and if so, you are probably deperately searching for a solution/fix. I might have something for you, but first:
*** DISCLAIMER/WARNING ***
You yourself are exclusively responsible for whatever may (or may not) happen to your mobile device, to yourself or others. I am only giving hints/advices here that *MAY* help, but I will not take any responsability, nor will I provide any support, in absolutely *ANY CASE*, including, but not limited to: your problem not being solved or/and your mobile device becoming partially or completely broken. Let me be very clear: If you do anything to your device rendering it useless, destroying it, seriously or fataly injuring you or others, and then come blaming me or/and cry for help, I will point my index finger at you and laugh at you. Period.
If you are a impatient person and want to get straight to the point, jump right to section 6.
Table of Contents
0. Foreword
1. Description of the problem
2. Urgent advice
3. Things that didn't work
4. There is little hope
5. My most obvious advice
6. LET'S GET SERIOUS!
6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape
6.b Refrigerator / Freezer
6.c Oven
0. Foreword
Two or three months ago, one fine morning, the WiFi/BT of my LG G2 suddenly stopped working. Initially I thought this would be only one stupid annoying minor thingy, that I’d be able to solve it fast. I was wrong.
1. Description of the problem
When turning on the WiFi, it would just stay in "Turning on..." forever. Similar thing for Bluetooth: It would stay on for a few seconds and then turn itself off again after. (But then, who needs Bluetooth anyway, WiFi ist probably 100 times more important...). I have thoroughly searched the internet, and I found quite some videos with exactly the same problem (remove the two blanks from the links to watch):
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=fRGnQz1zUmw
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=4W8YJMDFM88
h ttp://w ww.dailymotion.com/video/x2cuyjt_nexus-5-turning-wifi-on-frozen-problem_tech
2. Urgent advice
I want to prevent you from wasting countless hours searching for a solution - I wasted so much of my time already, no need for you to repeat that. Therefore: *Please* be aware that there is a VERY HIGH PROBABILITY that this issue is being caused by a hardware defect. I can not speak for all devices of course, but keep in mind that the main reason I wasted so much time, was me beliving it was some software issue! See the next section for a glimpse of stuff I have tried without any success:
3. Things that *DIDN'T* work
01. Restarting WiFi/Bluetooth several times
02. Rebooting the phone
03. Turning airplane mode on/off several times
04. Slapping/hitting the phone (this was indeed suggested in a forum)
05. Using WiFi-Fixer apps
06. Resetting to factory settings
07. Upgrading to newest Android version
08. Fully drained the battery and left it uncharged for several hours
(Rooted the phone)
09. Deleting the /data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
10. Deleting the whole /data/misc/wifi folder
11. Creating a file named ".bdaddr" in /persist/bluetooth containing a MAC-Address in hexadecimal format
12. Creating a file named ".macaddr" in /persist/wifi containing a MAC-Address in hexadecimal format
13. Flashing several custom ROMs to it (CyanogenMod, ParanoidAndroid, ...)
14. Going back to stock ROM
15. etc. etc. etc.
16. Several combinations and permutations of the above
4. There is little hope
Again, as the cause of the problem is most likely a hardware issue, I don't recommend going through all the steps as described in the previous section; however, though none of the steps worked for me, this doesn't mean that none won't work for you neither; you might be luckier than I was. In that case, enjoy your restored WiFi and be happy.
5. My most obvious advice
You need to replace the motherboard (main board) of your device.
Honestly, if you can afford it and it doesn't cause too many inconveniences to you, you'll be better off by simply buying a new device. If you don't want to buy a new device, send it in for repairs. If you don't want to do that as well, you'll have to fallback to a DIY solution:
I. Buy a new main board for your device. Be careful to get exactly the right component for your specific model. If you dont find any shop selling those, there are plenty of individuals out there that own devices with broken displays. You dont need the displays, you need the motherboard. Buy one such broken device, and you'll have your main board replacement.
II. Replace your main board or let someone else do it for you
Continues below.

continuation
6. LET'S GET SERIOUS!
If you are reading this, you either didn't read or you decided not to follow my most obvious advice in section 5. So be it. If you want to carry on from here, be sure to re-read my disclaimer at the top of my post.
There are 3 DIY possible fixes for the WiFi problem - none is guaranteed. I will describe them from the most harmless to the most kamikaze/deadliest. All of them will require you to open your device; if you are not careful and damage any of the components inside, you will end up with a worse device than before - but hey, don't say I didn't warn you.
At this point we assume that the cause of the problem is a faulty solder joint of your WiFi IC. The goal is to try to restore that solder joint. To do that, you will have to:
I. Open your device
II. Find your main board and separate it from all connected plugs
III. Find / identify the WiFi IC chip on the main board. I recommend searching for a service manual for your device, or/and searching for a disassembly video for your device; you need to know which one of the chips on the main board is the WiFi one.
Once you have identified your WiFi chip, you have 3 options, which you may combine with each other, but I recommend to try them out one-by-one as follows:
6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape
You need to make sure that your WiFi chip is pressed against the main board (ideally, this ensures the broken contacts touch each other, solving the problem). The best way to achieve this, is to attach a series of tape strips on the top of the WiFi chip, causing it to be pressed against the main board by the surrounding cover/hull once you reassemble/close the device. The tape strips are just a suggestion, do whatever you find convenient as long as you ensure that the chip is pushed against the board at all times.
This method may solve the WiFi problem already. When you turn your device back on, give it some time (5-10 minutes) and reboot it a few times if the problem still persists. My own WiFi didn't function right away, but after a while it finally recovered - hurray!
6.b Refrigerator / Freezer
Instead of using the tape as described in 6.a, you may first try to put your motherboard in a fridge for a few hours/days. But make sure to put it there in a plastic bag, and avoid moisture as much as you can, specially when taking it out of the fridge. Make sure its completely dry before reassembling your device!
By the way, try the refrigerator option BEFORE you try the freezer option!
6.c Oven
If everything else fails, the oven might be your last chance. This is not a joke, but as you probably can assume, it is "All-In" i.e. highly risky. The theory behind this is that high temperature will cause defective solder joints to reflow, reconnecting and thus fixing the problem.
You should only try this as a matter of last ressort. Be warned that you may fully destroy your main board, and there is a high chance that you will. Also, you may cause serious injury to yourself or others. Make sure you make backups of your data first. DO NOT BAKE THE WHOLE DEVICE, ONLY THE MAIN BOARD. DO NOT BAKE THE BATTERY!!
If you are still reading:
I. pre-heat your oven to 385° Fahrenheit (196° Celsius)
II. put your main board in the oven, bake it there for 7 minutes
III. remove from the oven, let it cool down until every component of the board has room temperature
Finally, here is a video of a guy doing a similar thing, but with a heat gun:
h ttps://w ww.youtube.com/watch?v=A4n0j3uaS7E
Ok, this is all, I hope I could help you.
Good luck!

Summary
Hello all,
first of all, I want to thank brysclar and xbing6 for their valuable feedback! Thanks a lot guys! :good:
Now, in an effort to update this thread and in an effort of trying to summarize it in fewer words (my disclaimer above applies!):
- The described problem seems to affect mainly (all kinds of) LG devices
- The issue seems to be caused by a defective soldering of the Wi-Fi chip on the main board
- The defect seems to be induced by dropping or/and overheating the device; recharging the battery, big/long app or android updates or the flashing of custom roms could cause excessive heating
- brysclar pointed out that replacing the battery might solve the problem (I haven't tried this out myself, so I can neither deny nor confirm this)
- My recommended solution is 6.a - applying pressure on the Wi-Fi chip, pushing it against the main board, using tape stripes
- There is a video of a brasilean guy doing some similar, but using pieces of an old credit card instead of tape strips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag BUT PLEASE NOTE THAT HE IS APPLYING THE PRESSURE ON A RANDOM SPOT, NOT DIRECTLY TO THE WIFI CHIP! It *may* work for you, but if it doesn't, find/identify your Wi-Fi chip and apply the pressure there
- If everything else fails, and only as a matter of last ressort, you may try what I have written in 6.c
So... this thread has over 500 views, but not one single reply.
Guys... what has your experience been? Have you tried anything out from the posts above, and if so, what was the result? Did it help you? Do you recommend anything? Has something else, not written here, worked for you?
There are a lot of people out there having the same problem. It would be great if you could give any feedback, share anything that helps the community.
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I honestly didn't see this post before. You really covered every detail very well. So far, returning my G3 to stock and replacing the battery has fixed it for me. Weird. I know. I did try 90% of the things on your "things that don't work" list and you are correct. They don't work.

wlanmac 02/00/00/00/00, Bluetooth is OK

Hey, i just got an LG LS990 with same Wifi issue and i'm ready to try so WITNESS ME!
Thanks for an amazing and detailed post lml

Simply awesome.
I have similar issue with my Nexus 5x. It is QCA6174 hw 3.2 chip, lspci does not detect this chip any more. I am going to do a little bit investigation from device driver (cnss) perspective. It enables one GPIO to provide power to this WiFi chip, I will try read back this GPIO status to see if it is enabled. I do not have the schematics, I do not know how to check if power is supplied to this wifi chip.
lspci used to show below:
$ ./lspci
00:00.0 PCI bridge: Airgo Networks Inc Device 0300 (rev ff)
01:00.0 Network controller: Atheros Communications Inc. Device 003e (rev ff) (this is qca6174)
If kernel driver investigation does not reveal anything helpful, I will ask other guys to replace the chip.
I thought it is because of vendor partition is accidentally wiped out, maybe it is unlikely.
---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:40 PM ----------
As Bluetooth can not be turned either, I am tending to think this is hardware related as well. As described previously, I will see if I can check that gpio status.

investigating
xbing6 said:
I have similar issue with my Nexus 5x.
(...)
I am going to do a little bit investigation
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Hi xbing, and thank you for your feedback! :good:
I am really curious and looking forward to hear the results of your investigation! I believe that in your case, too, the Wi-Fi/BT chip is not being supplied correctly due to a defective soldering. Note that I don't think that the chip itself is defective, only the contacts between the chip and the main board. So, before replacing the chip, I'd recommend to first try what I've written in 6.a (or check my update/summary above).
Keep us posted about everything you find out!

Sprint declined to fix my LS990 due to "water damage" being the reason for it not working, and wanted to charge me a $150 deductible for a $100 phone. Shimming the WiFi chip against the metal covering with some thermal pad I had lying around and adding a bit of sticky foam on top of the ribbon cable for the camera worked great! Much thanks!

Tomcat5 said:
Sprint declined to fix my LS990 due to "water damage" being the reason for it not working, and wanted to charge me a $150 deductible for a $100 phone. Shimming the WiFi chip against the metal covering with some thermal pad I had lying around and adding a bit of sticky foam on top of the ribbon cable for the camera worked great! Much thanks!
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Any idea if thermal paste/grease could work?

unlikely
NavHur said:
Any idea if thermal paste/grease could work?
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Hi NavHur,
since the problem is mostly caused by a loose Wi-Fi chip, respectively a defective solder joint, using thermal paste or grease is unlikely to help; again, what you need to do is to have your Wi-Fi chip pushed against your main board. You can use your imagination on how to accomplish this; what Tomcat5 described he did ultimately led to exactly having his chip being pressed against the board.
Of course you are free to try whatever you want - if you find new solutions please post some feedback.
Good luck.

NimbleWeasel said:
Hi NavHur,
since the problem is mostly caused by a loose Wi-Fi chip, respectively a defective solder joint, using thermal paste or grease is unlikely to help; again, what you need to do is to have your Wi-Fi chip pushed against your main board. You can use your imagination on how to accomplish this; what Tomcat5 described he did ultimately led to exactly having his chip being pressed against the board.
Of course you are free to try whatever you want - if you find new solutions please post some feedback.
Good luck.
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Thanks you so much, I placed a small piece of plastic above the wifi chip and one next to the camera lens. Now the wifi works fine. However my screen was pushed up so it bended a little. The faulty thing was my battery, not the added plastic. I compared mine with the one of a friend, mine was 1 mm bigger. (also with the battery of my friend's g3 the screen was fine)
I'll be changing it soon.

same problem as u but sometimes wifi works(mainly fully charged) and sometimes dont
i have lg g2 D802 model. It had a wifi problem as u shown in your videos,my phone also behaves same like yours but sometimes it works normally like while charging,works like 2 or 3 times a day(for 5-10 min).please tell me whether my phone got ic problem or software issue

Pratap94 said:
i have lg g2 D802 model. It had a wifi problem as u shown in your videos,my phone also behaves same like yours but sometimes it works normally like while charging,works like 2 or 3 times a day(for 5-10 min).please tell me whether my phone got ic problem or software issue
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Hi Pratap94,
nobody, neither here in this forum nor elsewhere in the internet, will be able to give you a reliable answer without having a *physical* look at your phone. Nobody.
However, I can give you my opinion, based on the stuff you wrote: The fact that it works normally sometimes, specially while charging (probably it heats up in the process?), indeed seems to indicate a hardware issue. I believe you have a loose Wi-Fi chip i.e. a defective solder joint, like I had on my LG G2 D802 as well. I solved my problem by doing the stuff I described in 6.a.
Good luck.

Thank you so much
NimbleWeasel said:
Hello all,
first of all, I want to thank brysclar and xbing6 for their valuable feedback! Thanks a lot guys! :good:
Problem solved good bless you!! the problem is fix in that youtube video XD
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Sadly step 6.a did not help me. Well, it worked for first 5-10 minutes and then back again.

Olzhas18 said:
Sadly step 6.a did not help me. Well, it worked for first 5-10 minutes and then back again.
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Hi Olzhas18,
that might be an indication that your WiFi chip is still a bit loose and is not sitting tight enough on the main board. On LG G2, it is difficult to push the chip against the board because it's covered by a metal cover...
Also, did you check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag ?
Good luck!

NimbleWeasel said:
Hi Olzhas18,
that might be an indication that your WiFi chip is still a bit loose and is not sitting tight enough on the main board. On LG G2, it is difficult to push the chip against the board because it's covered by a metal cover...
Also, did you check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJkdva2iOag ?
Good luck!
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Click to collapse
Thank you this tip and this whole thread. I have seen this video, but still the same effect. 5-10 minutes, I can rean some news and back to flashing. I'm going to buy Huawei Honor 8 soon, it was the last chance to recover my G4. I doubt I will purchase any other phone from LG.

Same boat
But bluetooth working
In cm roms also wifi tethring can be onn
But u cnt turn onn wifi

I had the same issue, can't turn on Wifi after factory reset.
I turn off my device off after one hour and reboot wifi was OK but when I want to upgrade some apps iwifi turn of again and my phone reboot with no SIM card.
I do "6.a Sellotape / Scotch tape" + a creedit card cut with this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_0jzp65eLY#t=73.319872
My LG G2 works fine