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Hi all
My D pad has come off and I am just about to get a new keypad
for the front of the phone.
I have read the manual but its not very detailed about the keypad.
I have been told I can lift the keypad up at the front and pull it off
then the one I get will be sticky backed and I just have to put it back on
ion the right place but I am not sure about this.
so any help would be great
thanks for your time
Don't mess around with the keyboard assembly on the Vox. Mostly you make things worse. The keyboard consist of 3 layers and all are glued on the other only. So if one thing gets off, just re-glue it back. The Layers are:
1.) bottom: semi-flexible PBA, glued to the housing - contains also the sealed pushpads for the keys
2.) middle: rubber middle layer, glued to the PBA on dedicated edges to leave the room for the keys to press
3.) keys: one-by-one glued ot the rubber layer, so normally 2+3 is just one layer and it cannot easily be separated. If a key falls off, take a little super-glue and put it back where it should be.
Thanks for your answer
but I lost the D pad keys when they come off,
I have now got the new keypad and it looks like peel off the back paper
then it will stick to the board that plugs into the mother board.
but I am not trying to do it yet, I am waiting on HTC to email me back.
Well, than you have to remove the old Keypad+rubber layer. This is a lilttle destructive though as the sticky glue will not allow you to easily peel it off. As you see with the new keypad, there are little "noses" at several places (top: left + right & at the D-Pad and bottom: left + right). To peel it off, start at the side in the middle (no "noses" there) and work through the rest of the pad. After removal, clean the PBA carefully (eg. lighter-fuel) so that no glue remains and it is dry. This is very hard - I am not sure if you can remove the texture part of the glue on the PBA at all, I could not.
For re-assembly the tricky part is to get the pad flat and aligned to all edges BEFORE it fully sticks to the PBA. If it is not aligned it looks horrible, if it is not flat, you may end up with a hump in the middle - also horrible.
I think you have to start at top, insert noses first and when the top is aligned and fixed work the rest down, but take care about the bottom noses. You need to fit them in first by bending the pad up in the middle, inserting the noses (but not have it glued there), making it flat again (still not sticky) and then roll it downwards to fully stick. If the glue is very stick (which I hope) you have only one try. You may want to experiment with the removed one first. So have fun doing it...
BTW: Where die you buy it and how much you paid?
Thanks mate for the nfo.
I know a guy who has a dead vox so I will go and see if I can have it
and try what you said. Other then that I will have to pay a shop to do it.
im trying to crack the transformer open and do u think the back is glued on or is it screwed on? im thinking theres probrably some screws behind the lable but cant seams to find anything here that wont scratch it to remove it. hit me up with ideas and hopfully I can post some kind of video on how to dissacemble the transformer.
It will most likely be fastened with screws. I think if it had been glue peoples cases wouldnt be 'creaky'. There were some pics on a Chinese site showing it open. I saved them to my pc, If I find them I'll upload.
Edit: Well I found them but they're not really showing the case. I'll attach them anyways and you can see if they help or not. It looks like once you get the bezel off the back just slides clean off.
Ok well scratch screws under the asus logo, thanks very much for those pics. I already have the screws out from the bottom. I'm guessing the back seals with some type of clips
Looking at there tools in second picture seams they used a guitar pic to losses it from its edges
cowballz69 said:
Looking at there tools in second picture seams they used a guitar pic to losses it from its edges
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Click to collapse
Maybe try a credit card?
Ha tore up my room looking for my guitar pic lol. Ill try my credit card
When in doubt use a hammer.
stuntdouble said:
When in doubt use a hammer.
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Lol, tryed to use a credit card but its to thick, going to stop at the store tomorrow and pick one up
cowballz69, pm sent
If you have one, your best bet is a Stanley knife (boxcutter, I think you call them). Should be thin enough, you'll just have to be careful not to nick any internal crap.
If it were me, I'd use a scalpel, but I know most people don't have one handy.
ok well heres my mini review untill i get a guitar pick, i got the bottom half to crack open with a credit card(to thick but i did it), i was then able to slide the card from one end to the other. The plastic clips holding the metal are very very crappy. the metal was extreemly easy to bend and by just putting the card threw the bottom was enough to bend it. i was however; able to put it back together with out making it look as if i opened it, but u would need a ULTRA Thin piece of plastic to complete the mission(DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE BUT PLASTIC,,THE METAL AROUND THE EDGE IS SUPER FRAGLE). seams all ASUS does is pop the plastic backing in and screw the bottom and its off to who every buys it.
(Losining the bottom screws lowerd the light bleed that was there by 30% ( i was a full brightness and back screen and loosining the screwes made a big impact so the issue with the light bleed is to much pressure on those areas)
seams this is easy enough just need the right tools.
cowballz69 said:
(Losining the bottom screws lowerd the light bleed that was there by 30% ( i was a full brightness and back screen and loosining the screwes made a big impact so the issue with the light bleed is to much pressure on those areas)
seams this is easy enough just need the right tools.
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Interesting. That seems to be the very spot where my screen has a little backlight bleeding. I'll try it out in a few minutes.
Youtube it
If this is the fix. A youtube vid would be awesome. Ready set go
paleridr said:
If this is the fix. A youtube vid would be awesome. Ready set go
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thats not the only spot i have light bleed, i also have bleeding on the top portion and theres no screw to losen so must be on to tight from the inside. however this does prove that the bleeding is from pressure not the screen itself
You need these spudgers,
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/professional-premium-precision-phone-disassembly-tool-7-piece-set-23050
Get a few sets (if you're planning on opening up electronics on a regular basis). These are soft plastic, and will wear out after a few uses. You don't want to use anything harder like a knife, as then you will mar the 'lips' on the device shells. Aesthetics aside, that will show up as evidence of tampering, meaning goodbye warranty.
Most electronics use plastic snap-in clips to hold the shells, along with screws and possibly soft glue. Going slow will prevent the clips from snapping off, but not always.
You can find these same tools on Amazon and eBay. Just search on 'spudger', which is their name.
Use the guitar pick to get the initial crease, push one of the thicker wedges into the crease, and slide it along the seam. This assumes you've gotten all of the (hidden) screws.
e.mote said:
You need these spudgers,
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/professional-premium-precision-phone-disassembly-tool-7-piece-set-23050
Get a few sets (if you're planning on opening up electronics on a regular basis). These are soft plastic, and will wear out after a few uses. You don't want to use anything harder like a knife, as then you will mar the 'lips' on the device shells. Aesthetics aside, that will show up as evidence of tampering, meaning goodbye warranty.
Most electronics use plastic snap-in clips to hold the shells, along with screws and possibly soft glue. Going slow will prevent the clips from snapping off, but not always.
You can find these same tools on Amazon and eBay. Just search on 'spudger', which is their name.
Use the guitar pick to get the initial crease, push one of the thicker wedges into the crease, and slide it along the seam. This assumes you've gotten all of the (hidden) screws.
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Click to collapse
breaking a clip is def possible in this case
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
jrac86 said:
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
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it's a torx.
jrac86 said:
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a Torx T6 bit.
When you opened it up, was there anything to suggest there was any way Asus would know you had opened it up please (if you hadnt bent the bezel ofc) if you needed to send it back under warranty for some reason?
opening is not recomended threw my experiance * I used the thinnest guitar pic today*,and the metal around the edge;any slight flex and it ends up staying that way and wont go back on straight no matter how carefull u are, also the clips that hold the plastic back to the bezil is ULTRA CRAPPY to a point u have a 50 50 chance of it not holding the plastic cover anymore. ON the plus side; if u loosen the bolts in the bottom, u can relieve the light bleed there. so reguarding the light bleed its best to just send it back to ASUS to get it fixed.
MY Next step is having ASUS fix my light bleed on my own tablet and not have them give me a replacement.
I will be posting a before picture of the light bleed when i send it out , and a After picture on when i recieve it back from them. good idea??
I had dust under my screen. Here's a easy solution.
Items needed: heat gun
razor blade
guitar pick/credit card
silicone/ or any other rubbery glue
3m tape
1. Heat outer edges of screen with heat gun, for about a minute.
2. Use razor blade, or something very thin to fit between digitizer and plastic frame of the phone. ( I suggest starting on the right hand side of the screen towards the top, as the connector is on the top left side for the digitizer, and there's a strip at the bottom for the buttons)
3. Once it has started separating, use the guitar pick, or credit card and work your way around the screen, going down the right hand side, bottom( careful of the little white strip for the buttons) and back up the left hand side.
4. When you've done that, you will be able to flip back the digitizer, DON'T TRY TO YANK IT OFF THE PHONE, it's still connected inside, JUST FLIP IT BACKWARDS.
5. Clean off all the crappy double sided tape from the factory.
6. Apply 4 SMALL squares of 3M double tape to the corners, cut them small enough, and place them on the corners, so they don't show up when you put the digitizer back on. You'll see how there's a certain amount of room to work with.
7. Apply with a toothpick, or something similiar, silicone, or your rubbery glue, to the raised edge of the frame, you know the one you just cleaned the factory tape from. ( LESS IS BETTER, if you use too much, when you press the digitizer back on, it will spread between the screen and digitizer, so you will have to remove it again, clean and start over.)
8.Then once you applied your glue, apply your digitizer back on, carefully pushing around the edges, not extra hard, just so it sits nice and flush like it did from the factory.
9. Wipe any excess glue that comes out around the edges.
Enjoy your dust free Sensation.
PS you can search youtube for sensation digitizer replacement, and use the part towards the end, for picture/video reference. YOU DON'T NEED TO TAKE YOUR PHONE APART for this because you don't need to disconnect the digitizer, like I said just flip it back.
ALMOST FORGOT, GET THE THINNEST POSSIBLE 3M TAPE, OR DOUBLE SIDED TAPE, SO THE SCREEN WILL SIT FLUSH WITH THE FRAME AFTER INSTALLING.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Q_KihDB4Og&feature=related - SKIP TO 4:30 for digitizer removal. IF NOT I'M ALLOWED TO POST LINKS TO YOUTUBE, PLEASE LET ME KNOW, I WILL REMOVE IT.
I wouldn't even consider this if your phone is still under warranty. This is a known problem and HTC readily admitted it for me. I got a new phone for free and it IS dust free for months now.
Matt
True, if I was under warranty I probably would've sent it in too but I got my phone from the US so I probably would've had to send it back there for replacement...but for those of us that don't have warranty and are rooted, flashed, and supercid, and don't want lose all that its a decent alternative in my opinion.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G with Beats Audio using XDA App
That sounds a bit scary heat gun on my screen? No no no...
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio using XDA App
just wanted to ask because i may end up doing this, what specific glue did you use and how were your results?
cyanogendroid said:
just wanted to ask because i may end up doing this, what specific glue did you use and how were your results?
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I'm in Romania at the moment, and they don't have stuff here that they have in the US. So I just used the thinnest double sided tape I could find here, generic brand, and universal black silicone.
Being in the US, I can tell you that the best tape would be 3M double sided FILM tape( it's very thin, business card like and will allow your digitizer to sit flush with the frame like stock) since you can get it there. And for the sealing part of it, either silicone(black) or a glue that will NOT harden completely when dry, that way if you need to ever remove the digitizer again you are able to do so.
As for my results, you can't tell anything was ever done to the phone!
Technical otaku. My G3 hero has this problem too.
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio Z715e using XDA App
Lol what? If you just got it then just get it replaced.
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio using XDA App
I bought mine used, so I'm not even sure if it was still under warranty. And I'm in Romania right now and I got it from the US, so I don't know how that would've worked. I'm rooted, flashed, supercid, and all that good stuff, and the back cover is polished. I'm sure HTC would've had something to say about that. And then to sit without a phone for who knows how many weeks and the replacement to get dust too.. at least now I know it'll never have dust again.
lol, extreme to the limits !!!. i'll pass on the op "advice" and just call HTC if dust gets under my screen.......
well, too extreme for me...heat gun? Since my Sensation has 2-year warranty and HTC admits there is a problem, i will not take the risk (and void warranty)...but i guess somenone could use this fix...i guess...
Like I said, it's mostly for the few that are out of warranty, out of country, etc..
i advise no 1 to do this, seek a pro to do it, even if not under warranty
Yeah that sounds freaky and I'm used to reppairing small electronics and doing stupid things, but I wouldn't try this
Well, my Sensation isn't under warranty (I believe; was purchased via ebay), so I might have to perform this in the future when the dust build up becomes unbearable. Thanks for the tutorial OP.
ungraph said:
Well, my Sensation isn't under warranty (I believe; was purchased via ebay), so I might have to perform this in the future when the dust build up becomes unbearable. Thanks for the tutorial OP.
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No problem... if you do it, you'll see it's not a big deal, and an easy process.
it worth the risk
guys there is no need to be scared, i've done it by myself and it works.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I did it and I've never done something like this before, it's not that difficult. I just had some problems with cleaning the tape that was on the screen before, but I managed somehow... Thanks again, OP, you save my senny and you saved me a lot of money by not having to take it to a pro to do it
Evening all.
So my beloved DHD needs the screen and digitizer replacing. Ive done the necessary reading/ searching and ive also located what appears to be a decent replacement.
Here is the thing.......
Has anyone successfully managed to do the replacement and keep the " Home, menu, back, search " buttons lighting up post screen replacement ? If so i would really appreciate some pointers on how you did this.
Thanks in advance
i replaced a digitizer / display on my dhd once and did the same on some Hd2 before.
On DHD its really difficult to replace the screen / digitizer. You most likely damage the plastic frame around the screen and indeed the arrangement of the Leds are no easy too, but not too hard to maintain. I wouldnt change the screen of anyone others DHD, just my own.
Yes, ive read that the replacement process is somewhat fiddly / tricky and no i would'nt do it for anyone else either. Im going for a pre assembeled screen / digitizer.
digitalizer is glued on lcd and lcd is glued on the middle metal plate, removing lcd from the plate requires heating it and it sure isn't fun, even after heating it it is still hard to remove without damaging the plastic frame, if i were you i would take it to a service shop with already bought part and paied them to change it, trust me it is not worth the nerves and the time
I'm a very handy guy and I accidentally tore a ribbon cable separating the pieces glued together. It's very hard, worth paying someone.
alextheg said:
Evening all.
So my beloved DHD needs the screen and digitizer replacing. Ive done the necessary reading/ searching and ive also located what appears to be a decent replacement.
Here is the thing.......
Has anyone successfully managed to do the replacement and keep the " Home, menu, back, search " buttons lighting up post screen replacement ? If so i would really appreciate some pointers on how you did this.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, but it was a pain, hold the pieces in place with double stick tape and be careful not to bend them!
Yup I successfully managed to replace a digitizer but I'm also a trained phone technician.
The most important thing is to be very careful. You should never have to use force in order to disassemble a phone.
How to get the cracked digitizer off? Simple, use your oven.
* Place the display-module (Chassis, digitizer,LCD) on a tray, make sure the plastic parts don't touch the bottom, so that it doesn't melt.
* Heat the oven to about 80-100 degrees celsius.
* The display should come off pretty easily.
* If you've done it properly, you can use the same adhesive that was one the chassis/frame if not you'll have to purchase some slow drying adhesive and carefully place it around the edges.
* Carefully move the light-guides on the bottom of the screen to the new digitizer. There's a small amount of adhesive on them so don't get any sweat on them. If they don't stick just use a very very, I'm talking pixel size amount of adhesive on it to get it to stick.
That's about it. Thread the flex-cable around the display and use a tweezer to connect it.
Hi all, I'm in the unfortunate situation that I need a new screen for my Pixel 3. Screens are hard to come by but I found KR-NET who sells screens for most phones including Pixel 3.
Any one have any experience with them? Seems like the only option for now but don't want to end up with a subpar display.
Well, I went ahead and bought it. It arrived today and my phone is fully apart. Now I can't figure out how to take the screen itself off! Teardown videos just say it's "securely adhered" (https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Google+Pixel+3+Teardown/113763) or skip over this step entirely (like in this Pixel 3 XL video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ffn4GQpgSU). Any ideas on how to get the old screen off?
Alright, well I just winged it and figured it out. Everything is working now. If anyone is interested, I can post more info. It wasn't terribly difficult but here's my lessons learned. . While I've never taken apart a phone (or anything that wasn't intended to be disassembled/is sealed shut), I'm generally comfortable with assembling electronics. It's not for the fainthearted, do this at your own risk. According to some sites, Pixel 3 has a very low repairability score because of how difficult it is.
Now that I've done it, the only reason a full disassemble is required is to route the display ribbons through the back. If you can find a way to do this, you probably only need to take off the wireless charger and loosen other things a bit.
Make sure the top speaker flex cable is through the motherboard before securing. It's easy to miss, unlike the other flex cables
Get a screen replacement kit that includes precut adhesives for battery and back cover. (Mine didn't)
Take pictures along the way to remember how things go. There are no good tutorials online with this detail
One of the front cameras has a seal that doesn't handle the process well. Mine made it but probably not as good as new
Somehow track which screws go where - beyond just pictures. I ended up with 1 extra screw and extra clip?
PATIENCE! - things break easily. Don't force parts or screws. When prying, do it gently
Be careful with the speaker mesh covers. Not sure if I did mine right but they do not come with any kit that I know of so don't break or bend them or forget to install them before you adhesive the screen on
Make sure to test that everything (phone speaker, bluetooth, bottom speaker, fingerprint, squeeze mechanism, all cameras, charging, flashlight, etc) is working before sealing it up
I managed to break my earpiece speaker somehow so now I'm on the hunt for one of those. At least speakerphone and Bluetooth work!
How's the display?
Does it seem legit, any tint etc?
Was it manufactured by lg?
No issues, can't tell any difference from original. For $80 can't complain vs $280 to get it fixed somewhere. It would be worth a few more $ to get the precut adhesive though.
It's branded as KR NET, seems they make them on their own? Not sure really. Since Google isn't making screens available yet for repairs, this seems fine. Literally would never know.