Hi! well, I know that I'm not the only one that complains about the refresh rate of the camera, in this post (spanish by the way) http://www.htcmania.com/showthread.php?p=121842&posted=1#post121842
a member found a temporary "solution"
serching the registry I found a key that shows me the FPS of the camera
in normal state the camera gives a poor 2.3 fps, after the "trick" I get 19.2 BUT the luminicence is reduced drasticaly
the "solution"
turn on the camera
cover all the CMOS sensor (until get all the screen black)
press the standby button
uncover the sensor
enable the phone pressing again the standby button
you will notice that now the image refresh is grate !!! but it's too dark
so, I was thinking that there must be some how to manually adjust the level of luminicence of the CMOS, and avoid the operating system to do a post prossesing rendering or whatever the system does.
any idea?
I got the 3d driver installed by the way.
Related
I found a very interesting thread speaking about camera low fps problem on kayser.
>>
1. open the camera application
2.Turn off the device by pressing the power button.( do not close camera application)
3.while pointing at a low light object (it have to be low light, what i do is cover the camera with my palm, so no light can be detected by the camera), press the power button to turn on the device, u will notice incredibly more FPS when u shoot in low light condition with no lag at all!!
<<
I try it on my cruise and it's amazing. I can now move camera without problems.
Try it
OriginaL thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=365345
Bye
Ziggy
Ziggy95 said:
I found a very interesting thread speaking about camera low fps problem on kayser.
>>
1. open the camera application
2.Turn off the device by pressing the power button.( do not close camera application)
3.while pointing at a low light object (it have to be low light, what i do is cover the camera with my palm, so no light can be detected by the camera), press the power button to turn on the device, u will notice incredibly more FPS when u shoot in low light condition with no lag at all!!
<<
I try it on my cruise and it's amazing. I can now move camera without problems.
Try it
OriginaL thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=365345
Bye
Ziggy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tryed it and works fine! thanks for tip
Really impressive!!!
Incredible !!
thankssssss
really unbelievable....
but however... it works great!
Thank You!
Works great, the only tip I could add is:
after you did that "fix" don't point your camera to the area with much light or the lag will be back again and you will need to reapply the "fix".
As I just replied in the Kaiser thread: if I do it that way, I just get really dark indoor pictures. To be honest: they are just black with really really dark gray shades... Useless.
great tip! thanks. I knew the low FPS had something to do with the aperature, just didnt know how to calibrate it. Maybe HTC can lower the threshhold for low light in an update. Indoor pics and video are much quicker this way.
Hi,
I was wondering if this is normal on my Touch PRO.
When I launch "Camera" app, go to settings and tap "Flash Light", the LED turns on and lights constantly until I tap it again to disable.
Accoring to manual (and common sense) it should allow the LED to make a high powered burst when shooting photo, and not just light constantly (I thought that 'torch' apps are for that).
In few words: My Touch PRO "flash light" LED works like a torch, not like flash.
Do you get this behaviour ?
Is it normal for a LED-enabled camera phone ?
Cheers
dont have a pro yet, but from what Ive read and seen on reviews its supposed to do that. It stays on then flashes when you take a picture. No need for a torch application..
hi
I get the same, when you turn the flash on the light comes on, when you take a pic it flashes gos out for 2-3 sec then turns back on.
This is normal behaviour. It was on my Hermes as well. The LED is enabled, but not at "full" extend. The light is meant so that the camera can focus when you are taking a photo in a dark environment. At the moment you make the actual photo, the LED lights up brighter for a second.
This behavior is necessary for taking pictures. The camera app assumes that if you turn on the flash, the ambient light level is low.
The flash then lights up at a medium level to help you frame the shot on the screen (that would otherwise be too dark or too noisy to see anything).
Finally, once you actually take the picture it flashes at full power to allow for a decent exposure.
I hope it helps.
Does exist any shortcut or program to turn on the flash light without starting up the Camera app for using it as a torch?
at the moment, no.
The usual suspect, VJCandela, doesn't seem to work with the Raphael just yet.
Hi,
My camera is very very slow. The quality seems good but when filming and moving the phone everything is very blurry. Is this normal / common issue?
If I take a picture of something it has to be absolutely still otherwise the picture is blurred.
When I direct it to a wall which is 1 color the camera if very fast, but when I move it to a colored area with lights etc, it flickers 1 time and then it goes very slow, as if some filter is applied in areas which are lighter.
I get this also and upgrading the radio has not solved the problem.
I've noticed that it seems to be fast in daylight?
Theres a camera trick in the forums - kaiser I think about switching off the phone (sleep mode by pressing the power button) whilst the camera is on and switching it back on again improving the speed but I have not been able to make it work.
The Polaris camera is very good in daylight conditions! If you try to take pictures in low light conditions the fps will drop so that it seems like it is very slow.
Try this little trick for videos or pictures in low light conditions with max fps:
1. Activate camera with camera button
2. Put your finger on the camera lens and hold it there
3. Turn of Screen / Put Polaris into sleep mode and wait 5 - 8 seconds
4. Activate Polaris screen again with power button
5. Now you can take pictures / videos with max fps!
But be aware of the fact, that with this little trick the iso lightening won't work anymore and the pictures will be darker and have lower quality!
After using the camera in better light conditions, everything will be as before the trick!
WOW! and that actually DID work
thanks for tip friend, I can live with the lower quality if I can get a decent video recording... The ones I've done before were rubbish. I would have been embarassed to show them to anyone... except maybe at a 60's convention..the blurryness was a little psychadelic!
The trick seems to work! Isn't there a way to modify the rom to always disable the light filter?
The other front camera is always working very fast, it's just the one on the back.
Thanks!
Maybe UDK might build it into his v9 release? (hint, hint!)
As far as i know there is no chance to tweak some software or a rom so that the problom won't occur again. When starting the camera it's hardware will always activate the iso lightning and therefore there will be those fps drops in low light conditions.
It has something to do with the lack of hardware drivers which could keep high fps rates also in low light conditions..... BUT i'm not sure because of the diamond!
If you compare it with the diamond, there ARE some video drivers but the performance of the camera is nearly the SAME as on Polaris.... in some situations even worse and less fps rates!
ZaPP187 said:
As far as i know there is no chance to tweak
If you compare it with the diamond, there ARE some video drivers but the performance of the camera is nearly the SAME as on Polaris.... in some situations even worse and less fps rates!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
htc phone has the slow camera problem all the time ,and will last too its dieth
so change your htc for samung or nokia their cameras are better than htc
ZaPP187 said:
It has something to do with the lack of hardware drivers which could keep high fps rates also in low light conditions.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has absolutely nothing to do with drivers. The phone's night mode isn't simply adjusting the ISO. The phone is allowing more light into the sensor, thus keeping the shutter open longer. Doing so blurs the picture if you move around. Any phone with a night mode does the same thing. In fact any digitial camera with a nightmode will also do this.
ZaPP187 said:
The Polaris camera is very good in daylight conditions! If you try to take pictures in low light conditions the fps will drop so that it seems like it is very slow.
Try this little trick for videos or pictures in low light conditions with max fps:
1. Activate camera with camera button
2. Put your finger on the camera lens and hold it there
3. Turn of Screen / Put Polaris into sleep mode and wait 5 - 8 seconds
4. Activate Polaris screen again with power button
5. Now you can take pictures / videos with max fps!
But be aware of the fact, that with this little trick the iso lightening won't work anymore and the pictures will be darker and have lower quality!
After using the camera in better light conditions, everything will be as before the trick!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, it works! thx a lot!
Can I ask how to modify this trick via a .reg file?
As said above, this cannot be done. You'll have to do it manually each time.
sonus said:
It has absolutely nothing to do with drivers. The phone's night mode isn't simply adjusting the ISO. The phone is allowing more light into the sensor, thus keeping the shutter open longer. Doing so blurs the picture if you move around. Any phone with a night mode does the same thing. In fact any digitial camera with a nightmode will also do this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, but how about setting a value for nightmode, so it wont be used in mediocre lit areas thus increasing performance?(maybe to finally allow to make some nice, steady pictures) I think HTC overdid it a little.
And how can you explain this trick, fooling phone that it's complete darkness, so it decides to turn nightmode off? Kinda weird.
Also what LightSensorHz(50) registry value does?
\HKLM\Software\Drivers\Camera\Property
Hi
I take a lot of still life type photos inside in relatively low light - not darkness however, the subjects of the photos are lit by LED spotlights.
I find that the camera brightness is always too dark and on every shot i have to manually increase brightness in a photo editing tool
On my previous Android (OnePlus3t) I could permanently adjust the brightness level so it was always brighter and did not require post editing
Is there any modification that I can do with the MI Mix 2S? I have tried the MIUI Camera and also the GCAM APK posted to this forum but same issue - on neither can i permanently increase brightness (In GCAM I can adjust on the screen at the time of the photo but that is very fiddly to do and you only get a second or two before it reverts back)
I bought the MIX MIX 2S becuase of its "best in class" camera - but for me its a retrograde step from the OnePlus3T becuase of this brightness issue.
Do you mean the exposure setting in the camera app? You can lock that if you want.
malimukk said:
Do you mean the exposure setting in the camera app? You can lock that if you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
unfortunately the padlock in the app also locks the focus, and everythime you refocus the lock comes off and the exposure reverts back.
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
1st Edit: Condition: you must use tap to focus. (If you just focus with the shutter software button, the hardware button or object tracking, scene detection won't disengage unless you actually change brightness or tint.)
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
1st Edit: When touch capture is ON, tapping on screen sometimes fails to focus because the picture is taken before the camera has time to focus, especially in low light. In this case you have to take the picture twice or use the timer so it has time to focus. Well this pretty much makes this "tip" useless !
2nd Edit: Sometimes the camera fails to focus if there no contrast on the clicked zone, but touch capture is not the cause. Try to tap on a zone with more contrast to improve focus success.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve HDR, multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus. 1st Edit: when it actually manages to focus before picture is taken, basically only in good light it seems.).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon, 1st Edit: then tap to focus (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
chgr said:
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite useful tips, thanks! Especially considering that camera quality appeared to be below my expectations (coming from Pixel devices, Huawei Mate 20 Pro, P30, Galaxy Note 10+). There are few complains about X5 camera system with which I can't do anything about. Firstly, quite slow camera app start up time and its overall performance compared to other devices. Secondly, focusing system is clearly inferior too. Main camera struggles to focus on objects a way too often in situations where others do it easily. Thirdly, HDR mode nearly useless (absolutely useless compared to, say, Pixel 2). Also camera has difficulties to make decent pictures in conditions different from ideal - blown out skies, crushed dark areas, overexposure problems are not something rare here. Finally, low light performance is a way below the competition. Making good pictures in low light from handheld phone is nearly impossible. Blurry mess or aqua painting effect is guaranteed. I hope that Sony will address these issues in future updates.