Related
I am experiancing some problems!
basically I think the manufacturer installed protective screen has come loose from the hard sensor (due to use?) and so the stylus is pushing on an air bubble, and with the software keyboard (virtual keyboard) the wrong buttons are getting pressed.
I dont know whether to cut out that layer with a scalpel (carefully) and use normal screen protectors that stick properly ... has anyone done this before?
Maybe you could apply heat to it to tighten it or something I dont know so I need help!
My phone is an alpine (xda2i) but other pdas must be having the same issue?
is it ok to cut the initial plastic screen that comes integrated with the xda?
Just make sure it is actually a protective screen and not the digitizer (the membrane that makes it touch screen and sits on the LCD) that your cutting away.
with a protective skin there should be no need to cut anything... I honestly think your talking about the digitizer - in which case take to a mobile phone specialist and they could heat sync it for you.
To check whether it is the digitizer or the crappy screen protector, you should be able to see the edge of the layer at the side, especially manufacturer orginial screen protector, they are really crappy. You should be able to seperate the layer (from the edge) with something pointy (e.g. a needle), and then peel it off from there.
If you didn't see any distinguishable edge at the edge of the screen, chances are you should not do anything yourself.
Jonjamesm said:
Just make sure it is actually a protective screen and not the digitizer (the membrane that makes it touch screen and sits on the LCD) that your cutting away.
with a protective skin there should be no need to cut anything... I honestly think your talking about the digitizer - in which case take to a mobile phone specialist and they could heat sync it for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the responses!!!
I have a feeling that it is what you are referring to as a digitizer. Do most of the mobile phone shops do this heat option? as after googling it, not much comes up, or is it referred to under a different terminology,
thanks in advance!
Rob
If your UK based you can find out more about them from apex laptops, google them...
I'm in Edinburgh, and it took me a while before I found someone willing to replace the digitizer.
This is not a common thing - but I think with the introduction of the iphone the markets for heat syncing will go up, I suggest freeing up an afternoon and go to some of those dodgy shops that offer the unlocking service, also some computer repair shop technicians might be confident in doing something of this nature.
Happy hunting!...
JJ McG.
thanks for your help
whatever you do dont approach o2. they are ridiculous, they want to charge 350 dollars to peel off the old one and put a new on one. search ebay and you will find digitizres with screwdriver and peeling, firming tool for 15 dollars plus postage.
o2's repair guys say it "original" spares which make it so expensive....
right...........
rang up
rang up a couple of shops one doesn't do heat sync and the other does but the machines bust, he started talking about soldering etc...(does that sound like it?) but when i re-described the problem he started talking about 50 60 quid for a new screen! which I am not prepared to pay for the relatively minor problem
How is a digitiser different from a normal screen protector anyway?
(placing a normal protector on top of it sort of helped reduce the problems because it applied a little firmness over the offending area....)
O.k the digitizer is not a screen protector. The Digitizer is a membrane that sits atop the LCD.
Note: that the LCD is not a touch screen and the only thing making your device a touch sensitive is this digitizer
digitizers can be pricey, but the reason your guy is costing it at 50 - 60 quid is because he is the middle man and needs to make a profit. You can find digitizers from apex laptops or GPS midlands (links below) and buy them at trade prices
http://www.gpsmidlands.co.uk/index.php?menu=Home
http://www.apexlaptops.co.uk/touchscreens.htm
Dependant on your device will depend on the price.
My guy asked for 10 pounds to replace my screen, which I thought was more than reasonable because if he broke the LCD whilst replacing the digitizer (which he did) he was liable to replace it. Make sure that your guy will do this.
hope this helps.
after googling...
After googling for a bit, I came across someone who had these sort of problems with their own pda
http://jamescrisp.blogspot.com/2007/05/fixing-palm-treos-digitizer-touch.html
it seems that dirt stuck under the sides can cause the same kinds of problems,
after running a bit of paper under the corners of the screen I have found some interesting results, the problems I have have changed slightly and seem to rectify temporarily when I press down (rub down) on the screen...
so I might look at taking it apart with some tools off ebay or something and giving it a good clean... any recommendations on how to strip down and clean an Alpine....? actually I'll repost that in the aline forum if there isn't already a post there....
hope your confident in doing so - I'd take it to a shop if it pisses you off that much - taking it a part and cleaning might end up with you just having a big screen phone with no touch pad...
Up to you, hope your successful
so i dropped my phone just the outer glass broke the lcd is find i was wondering where i can get the cheepest replacement for that i realy dont know what the price goes for but id rather not spend 500 on a retail andriod phone. my upgrade is like 3 months
Report it broken, pay $90 for a replacement through Asurion. Cheaper than $500, y'know?
Sent from my FroyoEris
You need to google for a eris digitizer.
LMGTFY
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...fai=CMBq5koWzTNrsN46EygTEha3rCQAAAKoEBU_Q0wbi
i think u can get them for like 40+ dollars off ebay
If you don't mind the long shipping times, you can get a digitizer + the entire housing together for around $60 on ebay. Doesn't seem like a bad deal to me.
#EDIT#
Zombie post . . . sorry about that. Need to remember to look at dates before replying.
Palmbxr said:
so i dropped my phone just the outer glass broke the lcd is find i was wondering where i can get the cheepest replacement for that i realy dont know what the price goes for but id rather not spend 500 on a retail andriod phone. my upgrade is like 3 months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replace mine, and is wasn't too bad. There is videos on YouTube about how to do it. It took me about an hour, and the part costs about 40 bucks. If you need any help with it, feel free to email me [email protected]
Aaron
you can get one @ 49usd
http://www.htcrepairparts.com/touch-screen-digitizer-for-htc-g5-eris-p-2727.html
Palmbxr said:
so i dropped my phone just the outer glass broke the lcd is find i was wondering where i can get the cheepest replacement for that i realy dont know what the price goes for but id rather not spend 500 on a retail andriod phone. my upgrade is like 3 months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going through the same thing. Amazon has some digitizers for about $40. I decided to spend the extra $20 and get this instead
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F5CEDW
It's the whole casing. I didn't want to bother with stripping the digitzer off the frame which is glued on. With replacing the whole body, you just move the mainboard over and plug everything back in. At least this is my hope. I'll post here again when the thing actually arrives. I ordered it two weeks ago and it probably won't be here until mid March.
Good luck with whatever you decided to go with.
UPDATE. hmmm october was the post date. I guess this guy has long taken care of his problem
Are there any particular tools needed? I swear my other half is on a mission to destroy her phone. It'd be good to know how to do some of the possible DIY stuff.
roscuthiii said:
Are there any particular tools needed? I swear my other half is on a mission to destroy her phone. It'd be good to know how to do some of the possible DIY stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's Youtube videos for disassembly. I haven't watched them myself, but I know they exist, so they probably tell you what tools you need there. From what I remember hearing, just some small torx screwdrivers, or maybe some small phillips, too, but don't quote me on those.
Here is a link to the teardown video I followed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHwm-32BI0w
The amazon link in my previous post is what I bought. It was the whole body. There are just screen replacements but I didn't want to mess with that because the digitizer is glued to the front piece. I didn't want to risk warping or breaking the front piece and completely screwing myself over. Anyway, what I bought came with the tools you need to perform the teardown and an extra screwdriver that was not needed.
I am glad I did this. However, it came with it's share of issues.
-The very top of my digitizer does not work. As a result, I can't pull down the notification bar. I can get to it through the menu button but it is annoying.
-I had to move the ear speaker and loudspeaker over. They were glued to some foam which was stuck/glued to the chassis. That foam absorbed the vibration. When my phone rings loud it is nasty because the speaker is bouncing around. I tried to cut some foam myself to replace what was stuck in the old case. It helped but it's not perfect.
-There are some rubber buffers? Isolators? Not sure what their called which also needed to be moved over form the old case.
-It took a month to ship to my house. After discovering these issues, I am kind've stuck with them because it would take a month to send the parts back and another month to get a replacement. By then I'll be due for a new phone.
So that's my experience of replacing the whole case.
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
My pleasure. Glad to help out.
Sent from my Eris using XDA App
To add to this, because I'm sure there are others out there like me who intend to use their Eris until it gets run over, dropped in lava, drawn, quartered, and defecated upon . . .
I ordered the same replacement housing and digitizer as mentioned above, and had 2 small problems:
The housing I got had a nut in it that came loose, so that one of the corners wasn't able to reassemble properly.
There was something different in the new housing that caused the proximity sensor to function incorrectly.
For #1, I just used some super glue to weld the nut into place. This appears to have worked OK, but I fear that the point is weakened now and I will need to be very gentle if I disassemble the phone again.
For #2, The problem was that the housing was allowing bleed through inside the case from the proximity flasher to the light sensor, which caused the sensor to determine that there was something close to it when in fact there wasn't. I placed a small (oh so small) piece of electrical tape into the housing between where the IR flasher and sensor are located, and the problem was resolved.
If presented with the option of purchasing a new digitizer alone, or a new digitizer and housing together, follow groovel76's suggestion; it's well worth the time and money to go with the latter. The hassle of cleaning the old adhesive off of the new housing, and the risks of getting new adhesive in places where you don't want it far outweigh the cost of just getting a housing with adhesive pre-applied. I tried to do just a digitizer first, and ended up with a small amount of super glue (DO NOT RECOMMEND) getting on the new screen and the edge of the housing, as well as a screen that didn't seat properly because I didn't get quite all of the old bits out of the old housing. This resulted in dust getting under the screen and another crack when I attempted to fix what I'd screwed up the first time.
Between the availability of parts and ROMs for this phone, I see it being in my family for a LONG time yet.
Yes! Buy a digitizer online (most come with the tools you need such as the torx screwdrivers, mine did) and search for videos on youtube. That's what I did and it only cost me $37 for the digitizer and about 30 minutes of my time. And it worked perfectly as new when I got it all back together.
I have a blue Verizon S3. I recently dropped it and it of course landed such that there are a few chips in two corners. The damage is just cosmetic, but I'd like to fix it if possible. My understanding is that the bezel is attached to the screen,requiring either a difficult bezel replacement or a complete screen replacement, but both of which I'd prefer to avoid.
So, my guess is that the best plan would be to fill in the chips (if necessary) with epoxy and paint over it with nail polish or paint. But I don't know what would be the best match.
Has anyone tried doing this and had success with a particular type of nail polish/paint?
Thanks.
My recommendation is to buy a case that covers the phone completely, you'll forget about it...
I have a Diztronic case arriving Wednesday, but need to use it with my car dock without the case. It's not a big deal, but given that its trivial to do (except for finding the right paint) I would like to do it.
Well you're definately right, a simple cosmetic fix would be best, here's your part...
Not sure what to tell you man, maybe someone will chime in with some info or similar experience... It's just cheap plastic...
I found this on eHow:
How to Repair Chipped Plastic
You can actually get the bezel separately for $17, but the screen needs to be heated to come off - not easy. Plastic repair is easier (as you pointed out) but a good job requires good paint. Hopefully someone has already tried.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I remembered this thread from cappy section... With people making modifications to their housings... possibly you can msg one of them...
dblevitan said:
I have a blue Verizon S3. I recently dropped it and it of course landed such that there are a few chips in two corners. The damage is just cosmetic, but I'd like to fix it if possible. My understanding is that the bezel is attached to the screen,requiring either a difficult bezel replacement or a complete screen replacement, but both of which I'd prefer to avoid.
So, my guess is that the best plan would be to fill in the chips (if necessary) with epoxy and paint over it with nail polish or paint. But I don't know what would be the best match.
Has anyone tried doing this and had success with a particular type of nail polish/paint?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you ever find a solution to this problem? I just recently scratched my bezel on my s3 as well...
littlele87 said:
did you ever find a solution to this problem? I just recently scratched my bezel on my s3 as well...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's all kitted up into one part... the solution is a $250 front part of the phone...
Repairing the bezel itself is pretty hard which is also attached to the metal frame of the phone.
You will need to heat up the screen/metal frame then take the screen off, there is a high risk you could damage the screen.
If you do so, you will need to purchase a new screen which is around $200-250
If you look on ebay, you can find some that are preassembled (screen + bezel + frame) for $250
emckai said:
Repairing the bezel itself is pretty hard which is also attached to the metal frame of the phone.
You will need to heat up the screen/metal frame then take the screen off, there is a high risk you could damage the screen.
If you do so, you will need to purchase a new screen which is around $200-250
If you look on ebay, you can find some that are preassembled (screen + bezel + frame) for $250
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for repeating exactly what i said an hour before...
emckai said:
Repairing the bezel itself is pretty hard which is also attached to the metal frame of the phone.
You will need to heat up the screen/metal frame then take the screen off, there is a high risk you could damage the screen.
If you do so, you will need to purchase a new screen which is around $200-250
If you look on ebay, you can find some that are preassembled (screen + bezel + frame) for $250
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make it easier on yourself next time, kid. Just copy/paste...
Sent from my rooted Mayan calendar
littlele87 said:
did you ever find a solution to this problem? I just recently scratched my bezel on my s3 as well...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked in some drug stores for some nail polish that would match, but never found anything. It's currently in a case, so I rarely notice it. Maybe sometime when I have energy, I'll try to replace the bezel, but not for now.
Well I cracked the glass on my Galaxy S3 and there is some other superficial damage around the bezel. As I am going to be getting another phone shortly anyway I was thinking about this problem and how I could get my phone as possible to "new." After consideration I'm leaning to using an automotive paint/scratch repair pen as opposed to nailpolish. Depending on how it turns out, I'll upload my process, materials, and pictures.
Hello everyone,
So I recently took apart my surface pro3 because my digitizer took a dump after a very short fall off my desk onto carpet (along with the glass). I know that the digitizers have different versions, However, I cant seem to be able to source a new LCD/Digitizer combo.
Anyone try to use different version digitizer/LCD combos from their "versions"?
Mystikalxxx said:
Hello everyone,
So I recently took apart my surface pro3 because my digitizer took a dump after a very short fall off my desk onto carpet (along with the glass). I know that the digitizers have different versions, However, I cant seem to be able to source a new LCD/Digitizer combo.
Anyone try to use different version digitizer/LCD combos from their "versions"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was curious about this as well. Trying to see if purchasing a cracked SP3 and replacing the LCD myself would be worth it. So far I haven't seen any info on version differences and compatibility.
ok, i will start of with the TLDR part because this is going to be quite long.
TLDR: 99% chance your tablet uses a v1.1 touchscreen digitizer, it will not work with anything else don't even try.
Explanation.
I purchased quite a few surface pro 3s (6 units) in the hope that I could get it fixed, I'll share my findings here.
Chassis
The magnesium alloy frame bends when you drop it, durable my ass, because the magnesium alloy has a low compression yield stress (I'd cite it but I don't have outside link privileges). Because the tolerances are so god damn tight, any bend is likely to prevent installation of a LCD because it will no longer fit. It's possible to get round this by bending it back (hard) or cutting the excess metal (harder) but chances are you need to to both to even get a decent result. But even then it'll never be the same.
Frankly I suspect its the same for all magnesium (or any metal framed) device, but on all the metal devices I've owned/fixed/refurbed it's the most pronounced on magnesium frames.
LCD
Don't let the LCD dealers lie to you, not all the LCDs are the same. For a while on eBay (the November to January period) it was flooded with SP3 LCD assemblies. Unfortunately I have no idea what bin they dug it out from but the LCDs attached to those were a slightly different make and were defective. It would not run on the original resolution, it had to be run at a lower resolution or else the picture would freeze (the initial image would stop refreshing) and I suspect something was defective on the LCD controller side.
Touchscreen
Interestingly enough the first unit I bought actually kind of worked. The touch was completely functional but there was issues with ghost touches. The other 4 units I purchased were lemons (don't buy the one from Shenzhen Saul E-tech on Ali-express) , the only other person who left a review on the D***s S is actually selling his unit on eBay right now! I was talking to him and it works differently for him as well, touch only functions after the unit has been on for a few mins.
What happens when you install the LCD assembly for the first time is that the SP3 detects it and installs whatever drivers it needs to (8? items) but it will not function properly.
I suspect there are 2 possibilities right now:
1. anything below v1.0 (I suspect this is the version at release, if you look on iFixit's teardown this is the version they have) is a prototype/ non functional.
The Chinese people dug all the v0.1,0.3,v0.5 screens out of a bin somewhere and decided to flog it to the rest of the world. Heck, some of the units I purchased looked like they were laminated separately from the digitizer (it had OCA stains all over the back and very poor quality control like dark spots and light-spots on the LCD). That means that anything below v1.0 is inherently faulty which kind of fits in line with my experiences with finding different faults across multiple units.
2. I works but requires calibration.
Apparently nTrig has a calibration tool ( I tried it, doesn't work) but maybe the touchscreen is registering input but needs to calibration to accept the signal (or reject noise signals)
right now your best bet is to pay microsoft to fix/replace it.
The LCD ranges from 200(avoid these ones)-300 bucks.
Apparently replacement is 300-320, go figure.
Any Update ?
Just wondering if anyone had an update or GOOD part number for the SP3 Screen and Digitizer ?
Thanks !!
Proxyep said:
ok, i will start of with the TLDR part because this is going to be quite long.
TLDR: 99% chance your tablet uses a v1.1 touchscreen digitizer, it will not work with anything else don't even try.
Explanation.
I purchased quite a few surface pro 3s (6 units) in the hope that I could get it fixed, I'll share my findings here.
Chassis
The magnesium alloy frame bends when you drop it, durable my ass, because the magnesium alloy has a low compression yield stress (I'd cite it but I don't have outside link privileges). Because the tolerances are so god damn tight, any bend is likely to prevent installation of a LCD because it will no longer fit. It's possible to get round this by bending it back (hard) or cutting the excess metal (harder) but chances are you need to to both to even get a decent result. But even then it'll never be the same.
Frankly I suspect its the same for all magnesium (or any metal framed) device, but on all the metal devices I've owned/fixed/refurbed it's the most pronounced on magnesium frames.
LCD
Don't let the LCD dealers lie to you, not all the LCDs are the same. For a while on eBay (the November to January period) it was flooded with SP3 LCD assemblies. Unfortunately I have no idea what bin they dug it out from but the LCDs attached to those were a slightly different make and were defective. It would not run on the original resolution, it had to be run at a lower resolution or else the picture would freeze (the initial image would stop refreshing) and I suspect something was defective on the LCD controller side.
Touchscreen
Interestingly enough the first unit I bought actually kind of worked. The touch was completely functional but there was issues with ghost touches. The other 4 units I purchased were lemons (don't buy the one from Shenzhen Saul E-tech on Ali-express) , the only other person who left a review on the D***s S is actually selling his unit on eBay right now! I was talking to him and it works differently for him as well, touch only functions after the unit has been on for a few mins.
What happens when you install the LCD assembly for the first time is that the SP3 detects it and installs whatever drivers it needs to (8? items) but it will not function properly.
I suspect there are 2 possibilities right now:
1. anything below v1.0 (I suspect this is the version at release, if you look on iFixit's teardown this is the version they have) is a prototype/ non functional.
The Chinese people dug all the v0.1,0.3,v0.5 screens out of a bin somewhere and decided to flog it to the rest of the world. Heck, some of the units I purchased looked like they were laminated separately from the digitizer (it had OCA stains all over the back and very poor quality control like dark spots and light-spots on the LCD). That means that anything below v1.0 is inherently faulty which kind of fits in line with my experiences with finding different faults across multiple units.
2. I works but requires calibration.
Apparently nTrig has a calibration tool ( I tried it, doesn't work) but maybe the touchscreen is registering input but needs to calibration to accept the signal (or reject noise signals)
right now your best bet is to pay microsoft to fix/replace it.
The LCD ranges from 200(avoid these ones)-300 bucks.
Apparently replacement is 300-320, go figure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a man that knows how to post and share info. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I just got a side job fixing a Surface 3 and your post helped so much. Plus the cheapest part online right now is $350. Way to much.
Good luck.
fresnogamer said:
This is a man that knows how to post and share info. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I just got a side job fixing a Surface 3 and your post helped so much. Plus the cheapest part online right now is $350. Way to much.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks!, It makes me sad that people are buying $500 LCDs because microsoft really does charge $300 to replace the entire unit. Also the wholesale price for those thigns are like $160 in china so seriously what the F**K
Must you replace the entire thing (like the LCD and the glass screen on top) or can you just replace the glass screen on top? I heard that LCD screens are very expensive while the glass screen is much cheaper, my surface pro 3 recently broke. You can use the mouse and everything except for the touch screen. I need the touch screen desperately as I use it frequently for educational purposes. I don't want to pay $300 just for the touch screen, is there any other way I can get the screen repaired at a cheaper price?
nwfiwufgd said:
Must you replace the entire thing (like the LCD and the glass screen on top) or can you just replace the glass screen on top? I heard that LCD screens are very expensive while the glass screen is much cheaper, my surface pro 3 recently broke. You can use the mouse and everything except for the touch screen. I need the touch screen desperately as I use it frequently for educational purposes. I don't want to pay $300 just for the touch screen, is there any other way I can get the screen repaired at a cheaper price?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unfortunately no, you do have to replace the whole thing the glass and digitizer is one unit, does not come separately.
Today Microsoft asks for 450 euro to replace the surface!
Microsoft just asked me to pay $577 (Canadian) to replace my device after I cracked the screen. I can just buy a used one for less money since I had the i3 version.
Same price for i3\i5\i7....kind of weird.
Anybody had a price in the UK? I dropped my SP3 i5 from about a foot WITH a foam cover on, and it hit the floor square on the corner denting the metal, smashing the corner glass, and a crack across the screen. I managed to boot and disabled the touch in windows, but I cannot get past the Surface logo on boot. I have to go into the secure boot menu with volume + / power then when I exit it will boot... any other combination and it just hangs at the surface logo.
Same same, £350 I guess to exchange, £350 for a second hand unit on eBay. Shame I cannot trade in....
UV LOCA
Proxyep said:
ok, i will start of with the TLDR part because this is going to be quite long.
TLDR: 99% chance your tablet uses a v1.1 touchscreen digitizer, it will not work with anything else don't even try.
Explanation.
I purchased quite a few surface pro 3s (6 units) in the hope that I could get it fixed, I'll share my findings here.
Chassis
The magnesium alloy frame bends when you drop it, durable my ass, because the magnesium alloy has a low compression yield stress (I'd cite it but I don't have outside link privileges). Because the tolerances are so god damn tight, any bend is likely to prevent installation of a LCD because it will no longer fit. It's possible to get round this by bending it back (hard) or cutting the excess metal (harder) but chances are you need to to both to even get a decent result. But even then it'll never be the same.
Frankly I suspect its the same for all magnesium (or any metal framed) device, but on all the metal devices I've owned/fixed/refurbed it's the most pronounced on magnesium frames.
LCD
Don't let the LCD dealers lie to you, not all the LCDs are the same. For a while on eBay (the November to January period) it was flooded with SP3 LCD assemblies. Unfortunately I have no idea what bin they dug it out from but the LCDs attached to those were a slightly different make and were defective. It would not run on the original resolution, it had to be run at a lower resolution or else the picture would freeze (the initial image would stop refreshing) and I suspect something was defective on the LCD controller side.
Touchscreen
Interestingly enough the first unit I bought actually kind of worked. The touch was completely functional but there was issues with ghost touches. The other 4 units I purchased were lemons (don't buy the one from Shenzhen Saul E-tech on Ali-express) , the only other person who left a review on the D***s S is actually selling his unit on eBay right now! I was talking to him and it works differently for him as well, touch only functions after the unit has been on for a few mins.
What happens when you install the LCD assembly for the first time is that the SP3 detects it and installs whatever drivers it needs to (8? items) but it will not function properly.
I suspect there are 2 possibilities right now:
1. anything below v1.0 (I suspect this is the version at release, if you look on iFixit's teardown this is the version they have) is a prototype/ non functional.
The Chinese people dug all the v0.1,0.3,v0.5 screens out of a bin somewhere and decided to flog it to the rest of the world. Heck, some of the units I purchased looked like they were laminated separately from the digitizer (it had OCA stains all over the back and very poor quality control like dark spots and light-spots on the LCD). That means that anything below v1.0 is inherently faulty which kind of fits in line with my experiences with finding different faults across multiple units.
2. I works but requires calibration.
Apparently nTrig has a calibration tool ( I tried it, doesn't work) but maybe the touchscreen is registering input but needs to calibration to accept the signal (or reject noise signals)
right now your best bet is to pay microsoft to fix/replace it.
The LCD ranges from 200(avoid these ones)-300 bucks.
Apparently replacement is 300-320, go figure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What type of adhesive or glue (uv) install for the lcd & glass?
marky9074 said:
Anybody had a price in the UK? I dropped my SP3 i5 from about a foot WITH a foam cover on, and it hit the floor square on the corner denting the metal, smashing the corner glass, and a crack across the screen. I managed to boot and disabled the touch in windows, but I cannot get past the Surface logo on boot. I have to go into the secure boot menu with volume + / power then when I exit it will boot... any other combination and it just hangs at the surface logo.
Same same, £350 I guess to exchange, £350 for a second hand unit on eBay. Shame I cannot trade in....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same issue. When I boot it gets stuck so I press Ctrl + alt + Delete and it tries again. I normally takes 2 or 3 tries before it boots. Please let me know if you have any luck on finding a place to get it repaired.
Instead of buying a screen for that much, you could simply get your device fixed by a 3rd party like RxTech Repair. They do the repair for $377 which includes free return shipping back to you.
marky9074 said:
Anybody had a price in the UK? I dropped my SP3 i5 from about a foot WITH a foam cover on, and it hit the floor square on the corner denting the metal, smashing the corner glass, and a crack across the screen. I managed to boot and disabled the touch in windows, but I cannot get past the Surface logo on boot. I have to go into the secure boot menu with volume + / power then when I exit it will boot... any other combination and it just hangs at the surface logo.
Same same, £350 I guess to exchange, £350 for a second hand unit on eBay. Shame I cannot trade in....
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I also had the same issue where I dropped my surface and the screen cracked,and upon booting, it would hang at the surface screen indefinitely, to fix this I had to clean wipe ththe surface and reinstall from a recovery image I downloaded from microsoft website,after that it worked fine again
Hi,
first of all i will start with saying that I suppose I am not entitled to the official samsung warranty or customer service, as i bought my phone form ebay (unlocked version, shipped from Hong Kong). Unfortunately in my absence my younger brother managed to lightly scratch the screen when he was playing with it, he got scared and tried to get rid of the scratch by rubbing it with toothpaste (it's something he read on the internet, supposedly it was supposed to "polish" the light scratches and get rid of them). Of course it didn't work, and just made it worse. In fact it created a dull, round spot on the screen just where the scratch is, it was hard to clean and attracted moisture easily, moreover when screen was on you could notice a grainy/greasy spot. I guessed, that the toothpaste must've removed the oleophobic coating on the screen, so I thought i will buy a oleohobic coating kit, which i did. I went to Amazon and order the Crystalusion Liquid Glass, praying for it to fix it. After application it restored the hydro/oleophobic properties in that spot, and made it smooth just like the rest of the screen. Unfortunately the grainy/greasy effect while screen is on remained, and under direct light you can still see the dull spot, so i guess apart of removing the coating, he must've sanded the glass underneath it. I am thinking of putting a second layer of that liquid glass thingy, hoping it will fill the sanded pores, and smoothen the glass even more, maybe it will do the trick. It's not something that disturbs the every day usage, but i just cant get over the effect on the screen when its on .. and just the knowledge of not having a perfect, beautiful infinity display just after 3 weeks of having the phone is making me cry. And yes, I know i could use a screen protector .. I've tried those, and none of them suited me, first (samsung original) was not compatible with the case, and next two (wet application) ruined the screen quality (created that mentioned greasy/grainy effect on the entire screen), and after all the TGP reviews I decide just not to waste money on them, so i decided to go naked screen+case ... Do you think there any hope for me? Any ideas on how to fix it, or if it is even possible? Do You think that i can contact Samsung with a device bought on ebay? I will be grateful for any answer, and sorry if this is not the right place for this kind of thread.
Well it won't be covered udner warranty because it's damage caused by you. It's not a faulty product.
But you can maybe have it repaired by Samsung. They can replace the display with a new one. But this is quite expensive.
Putting a screen protector on might help mask the marks on the screen and make them less noticeable.