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[Q] Mesmerize USB port problems. Alt PCB points for USB? anyone?

Does anyone know ANYONE that knows another spot on the Circuit board that I can pick up USB at? My issues is that the micro usb port was damaged. The pads ripped off the pcb and most of the traces. I tried removing the enamel from the PCB to get a solder point for data + and data - but to no avail. If anyone can explain or show me pictures where else on the board I might be able to get the 4 USB points at I would be ever grateful. I'm boot looped AOPK 29, can't get into clockwork recovery mode. Download mode works..but the PC doesn't even see the phone(not at all..not a driver issues 100% sure). If I can get the USB running..I can flash it back to operating condition. At that point I can manage to solder on a new micro usb port and get to the +5v and -5v so I can charge the thing. As I mentioned before its the + and - data signal I can't get. So even if you can point out where to get a hold of those that would fix me too. I can solder pretty small.
Or anyone forum where you have a feeling someone might have an answer or would be kind enough to look at a high res picture of the PCB and help me trace it. I love my mesmerize to death. I'd really hate to see it die like this..It might be "legacy" But it'll post over 2500 quadrant and runs fast and smooth.
Thanks in advance.
Arick - AKA Gigaah

Gigaah said:
Does anyone know ANYONE that knows another spot on the Circuit board that I can pick up USB at? My issues is that the micro usb port was damaged. The pads ripped off the pcb and most of the traces. I tried removing the enamel from the PCB to get a solder point for data + and data - but to no avail. If anyone can explain or show me pictures where else on the board I might be able to get the 4 USB points at I would be ever grateful. I'm boot looped AOPK 29, can't get into clockwork recovery mode. Download mode works..but the PC doesn't even see the phone(not at all..not a driver issues 100% sure). If I can get the USB running..I can flash it back to operating condition. At that point I can manage to solder on a new micro usb port and get to the +5v and -5v so I can charge the thing. As I mentioned before its the + and - data signal I can't get. So even if you can point out where to get a hold of those that would fix me too. I can solder pretty small.
Or anyone forum where you have a feeling someone might have an answer or would be kind enough to look at a high res picture of the PCB and help me trace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The data points are on the back of the board maybe this pic will help you
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Perfect! Thanks a lot.Now to muster enough soldering skill to hit those and not wreck things.

Help bricked gear Fit 2 pro

I was trying to put the first rom of the gear fit 2 pro 365 with odin but I accidentally added a rom of gear fit 2 360 and now it stayed on a black screen that says "Download has been failed. Please retry wireless download” but I don't know how to return to the wireless donwload screen because they don't let me the buttons

You managed allready your problem?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gifgSLLIGRY
In theory Power Button should work for "hard reboot"... to leave nearly every screen... hold few seconds in "emergency situation"...
If you killed Downlaod wireless option... but Downlaod aka Odin Mode work... you need USB cable...
Somewhere I saw Pinout... forgotten where...
Best Regards
Edit 1.
Only if USB cable... or other Hardware replacment attempts... how to open SM-R360
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eOkpkVtwSw
IMHO SM-R365 not much differ... remove 4 screws... carefully
If I will find Pinout of USB I will post....

adfree said:
You managed allready your problem?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gifgSLLIGRY
In theory Power Button should work for "hard reboot"... to leave nearly every screen... hold few seconds in "emergency situation"...
If you killed Downlaod wireless option... but Downlaod aka Odin Mode work... you need USB cable...
Somewhere I saw Pinout... forgotten where...
Best Regards
Edit 1.
Only if USB cable... or other Hardware replacment attempts... how to open SM-R360
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eOkpkVtwSw
IMHO SM-R365 not much differ... remove 4 screws... carefully
If I will find Pinout of USB I will post....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a similar problem and cant find the USB pinout for the SM-R365

I will try to find...
I can only remember User posted Photo...
Need some time to find this...
Otherwise maybe in Service Manuals PINOUT readable...
If found, I will post somewhere here:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/smartwatch/gear-s3/sm-r765f-teardown-t3659431
Best Regards

I have a Gear Fit 2 Pro R360 that is stuck in download mode, so probably a direct USB connection to a PC running Odin should solve the problem.
Found the service manual with pinout, but I'm not sure what need to be connected.
Do I need to connect the TX/RX through a USB to serial adapter, or the USB_D and USB_D+ directly to USB, or maybe both?
In the service manual there is a special cradle being used that connects to all 5 pins plus 5V+ and GND.
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Usb cable for fastboot

Hi guys,
i have the problem that my original USB cable is broken. So I bought a type c to type c and a type c to type a data cable.
ADB is detecting my phone with the type c to type c cable but not with the type c to type a cable. I tried different cables too (I had lying around) but they didn't work either.
Fastboot won't detect my phone at all. I tried it on the USB 2.0, USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 ports of my PC and my laptop (PC uses Linux, Laptop uses Windows). Dmesg won't show anything and on Windows the device manager won't show anything.
Do you know a cable which is working for fastboot?

alibei said:
Hi guys,
i have the problem that my original USB cable is broken. So I bought a type c to type c and a type c to type a data cable.
ADB is detecting my phone with the type c to type c cable but not with the type c to type a cable. I tried different cables too (I had lying around) but they didn't work either.
Fastboot won't detect my phone at all. I tried it on the USB 2.0, USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 ports of my PC and my laptop (PC uses Linux, Laptop uses Windows). Dmesg won't show anything and on Windows the device manager won't show anything.
Do you know a cable which is working for fastboot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose you could try an official Mi cable. The specs are listed here, and it's only £4.99..
http://m.buy.mi.com/uk/item/3203400017#product
Maybe ask them before purchasing, it does say it supports multiple quick charge protocols but unfortunately doesn't mention quick boot.
I've actual just ordered the cable yesterday. When it comes I can test it for you. [emoji106]
Sent from my Mi Note 10 using Tapatalk

That would be nice?

I just realized that the original cable have 5 wires. All my other USB c data cables only have 4 wires. But I do not find a USB c cable with 5 wires online. Maybe someone knows a cable with 5 wires. The colors are red, white, yellow, green and light grey.

alibei said:
I just realized that the original cable have 5 wires. All my other USB c data cables only have 4 wires. But I do not find a USB c cable with 5 wires online. Maybe someone knows a cable with 5 wires. The colors are red, white, yellow, green and light grey.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Mi cable I linked to only appears to have 3 colours...
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@bigoliver did you try it?

Question Failed to enter EDL mode for Poco X3 Pro

Hello,
My Poco X3 Pro is stuck in the boot loop, after a lot of trying the "soft" flashing and failing, I have ended up trying shorting the test points.
The test points for this device are under the MB flex cable, so there is no way this can be done without disconnecting that cable.
I have few questions. answer to any of these is much appreciated :
I have installed Qualcomm 9008 drivers (Both installer and manual methods) , but no "Ports ( COM & LPT)" Entry appears into my Device Manager, What could be the problem ? or it would only appear when the phone is connected through EDL Mode ?
Would the device enter the EDL mode while that SUB MB cable is disconnected ?
and does it matter on what stage the boot procedure is currently running when I do the shorting and USB insertion (as I mentioned, the device is continuously rebooting when it first reaches the POCO logo) ?

You'll only see the Port when the device is present. If you click View > Show hidden devices in devmgmt.msc it will show devices that were ever connected.
Dunno. Is that cable for the USB? It's problematical because the Sahara bootloader in ROM is very brittle and can't tolerate USB cables disconnecting/connecting.
If your device goes through a full reset for whatever reason and the test points are connected it will go into EDL mode.

Thank you very much for all the answers!
Regarding #2:
Here I attach the picture of the ribbon cable I asked about:
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As shown, It has to be disconnected while in order to be able to short the points lies under, just by the cable's connector.

AssemJo said:
Hello,
My Poco X3 Pro is stuck in the boot loop, after a lot of trying the "soft" flashing and failing, I have ended up trying shorting the test points.
The test points for this device are under the MB flex cable, so there is no way this can be done without disconnecting that cable.
I have few questions. answer to any of these is much appreciated :
I have installed Qualcomm 9008 drivers (Both installer and manual methods) , but no "Ports ( COM & LPT)" Entry appears into my Device Manager, What could be the problem ? or it would only appear when the phone is connected through EDL Mode ?
Would the device enter the EDL mode while that SUB MB cable is disconnected ?
and does it matter on what stage the boot procedure is currently running when I do the shorting and USB insertion (as I mentioned, the device is continuously rebooting when it first reaches the POCO logo) ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im facing same problem, please help me
How you resolve the problem?

@AssemJo Sorry, I didn't notice your response.
(It's often good to quote a line from somebody's message so that they get a poke.)
It looks like that main FPC would include the USB connector.
I wouldn't be surprised if some of those test points are the USB 2.0 D+ and D-.
In the factory they would use the USB TPs and the EDL TPs to program this without the main FPC connected.
Your choice is to tape (or solder) tiny (30 AWG, 0.05 mm²) wires to the test points so that you can access them while the FPC is connected.
In other cases where this is room I've permanently installed a magnetic reed switch.

(guide) (hard mod) RP1 - Charging FIX (without replacing connector)

Hi!
First of all - I'm not responsible for anything that could happen to your phone because of this guide.
I'm gonna show you how to fix your razer phone that:
- doesn't charge at all
- starts charging for 10 seconds and then stop
- as above but in a loop
- only charges on specified polarity of usb-c cable (when you flip the cable phone charges)
- etc
First let's take a look at the USB-C connector:
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There are:
- 4 pins providing grounds (-) (marked black)
- 4 pins providing power (+) (marked red)
- 2 cable connection detect pins (marked orange)
How it works?
Black and red pins provide power for your phone (5v)
Orange pins detect if usb-c plug is plugged into your phone or it's not.
What happens in almost every razer phone after ~1-2 years?
Orange pins break and your phone is unable to detect that you plugged charger/pc/whatever
But power pins (red and black) are ok and provide power to your phone
Soo your phone is like "There is power but usb cable isn't connected" and starts acting weird
If only one detection pin break (orange) you can still charge your phone, but only on one side of usb connector
If both detection pins break you are unable to charge your phone at all
So how to fix this without replacing whole usb-c connector?
The easiest way is to bridge VBUS (red) pins with the CC1 or CC2 pin (orange) with 1kOHM resistor.
If u have such a bridge the phone thinks "power coming in = cable is connected"
(the voltage from vbus (the charger) flows into cc1 pin and thats signal for your phone that usb-c cable is connected).
How to implement this fix?
All you need is soldering iron, 1kohm resistor and a steady hand.
First, take a look at the Razer Phone motherboard:
There are some test-points that we can solder-in without destroying anything
Soldering cables to test points don't require super-precision, my grandpa could do it!
You have to put 1kOhm resistor between CC1 and VBUS
Or between cc2 and VBUS, then your phone will think that usb-c plug is flipped!
(just joking there isn't any reason to do it xd)
REMEMBER - DO NOT CONNECT TO BOTH CC1 AND CC2 PINS AT THE SAME TIME!
CHOOSE EITHER CC1 OR CC2 (I prefer CC1 ;p)
And that's all!
Now your phone should charge normally again!
Btw, if your charging port is absoluttly smashed you can provide 5v to any of the VBUS pins to charge (like me ).
Now take a look at my implementation:
Don't mind the rest of the cables, my Razer has been through a lot
(the black cable is soldered only to CC1, it may look that it is soldered also to cc2 but it's not!)
The last step is to pack the resistor somewhere:
I have some space because of smaller battery.
If you have trouble finding good spot you could use smaller "SMD" resistor.
Look, what a nicely charging Razer Phone!
Enjoy!
Photos taken using S22 ultra
Please credit

Wonder if this would work on the Razer phone 2, How did you find where each VUSB was? did you check the pins from the USB C to those?

x0xDJSx0x said:
Wonder if this would work on the Razer phone 2, How did you find where each VUSB was? did you check the pins from the USB C to those?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, my usbc connector was totally destroyed. Trial & error