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Connecting an android phone to a car with a MOST optical audio system. Help needed!

Hi all,
I have an interesting problem to pose to the techies amongst you.
I have just managed to get my dream car and now need to integrate my phone without paying the huge sums being asked for by the car manufacturers and some aftermarket electronic suppliers (car ICE specialists too). My phone is currently a Samsung Galaxy Note 3 and the car has MOST optical audio and satnav systems.
I'm after 3 distinct, yet simultaneous, solutions, which are : -
A/ power supply to the phone
B/ HDMI or RCA output to a dash mounted 5 inch lcd screen for satnav purposes
C/ audio output to link into the car's current MOST audio system (head unit in the dashboard, also running the car's hvac, and the amplifiers are in the boot)
My first thought was to open up the USB 3 cable and to run individual wires to 3 separate plugs for each of the 3 solutions listed above. At this point many of you may be laughing at my clearly very poor understanding of modern electronics, particularly USB, and I would not argue that at all - I'm a complete dimwit here! Obviously (I think...) the clear solution is in the fact that USB can run different objectives simultaneously.
So... I run my USB 3 CABLE from the phone to a (presumably powered?) USB 3 hub and have 3 appropriate cables plugged in and running respectively to A/ a USB cigarette lighter socket, B/ an hdmi (or RCA, or composite?) plug and C/ to a standard stereo headphone jack or socket.
I don't think A/ will work because I don't see power going from the socket back through the hub and into the phone. Suggestions welcomed as I can't see how to get power to the phone at the same time as having a USB cable supplying data out. Or is there power over USB through a hub available?
B/ seems straightforward enough.
C/ the audio then needs to go to an analog to digital / wired to optical adapter and then a 2 into 1 optical switch (so I can still have the existing output from the head unit) before plugging into the amplifiers. These 2 adapters are easily available through eBay, Amazon or Maplins as far as I can see. The issue I foresee here is will the head unit still be able to control volume, fade, etc of the signal coming from the phone? If the control of the amplifiers happens via the optical cables then presumably that won't happen if I've used a switch to change the source? Would taking the output from the phone's headphone socket be of any benefit? I doubt it as the output power from there may be quite a bit higher than from the USB port...
So you can see that I clearly need some knowledgeable direction here or I will be forever going round in ever decreasing circles!
Many thanks in advance for any help given. Cheers, Mark

DAB/Screen brightness glitch

Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????

The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.

SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.

Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)

I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)

SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?

ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
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Click to collapse
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently

SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!

Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!

Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.

ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you then solved, because I also have the problems problems

Erisin head unit in Skoda Superb, static across all channels

Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?

heddyheddy said:
Installed the Erisin ES7915v in a 2009 Skoda Superb a few days ago. PX5 running Android 9.0.
Install was fine and things are working well except for a constant static that appears whenever the volume is above zero. The static does not change volume but it's easily noticeable at lower volumes especially on e.g. non-music radio. There was no static at all on the previous setup (the factory fitted Skoda Columbus / RNS 510). Turn volume to zero and static disappears.
The car has an amp under the passenger seat (factory fitted again). It doesn't use RCA cables - just standard speaker wire cables from the wiring harness in the head unit down to the amp and then out to the speakers. The head unit has the option of using RCA cables.
So:
1. I've altered gain up to -15 and it doesn't have any overall effect.
2. While the static volume doesn't change, the pitch can do so with acceleration etc.
3. It's not related to the screen or the button colours - I've altered those / turned screen off but it has zero effect.
4. I can use the software amp to bring down treble frequencies which helps lower the static but that's not ideal and doesn't come close to eliminating the whole noise.
5. I've tried running a ground wire attached to the head unit to the chassis but no effect.
6. No dash cam. No DAB. No reversing cam (yet).
7. I have a 4g dongle in the glovebox providing wifi but the static is there whether this is on or off.
8. Unplugging the radio aerial doesn't have an effect.
9. Unplugging GPS aerial doesn't have an effect.
Any further suggestions? And is this a faulty unit OR is this likely to happen even if I get a replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest to resolve the issue?

So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.

heddyheddy said:
So far the reseller response is " " because they haven't replied to two emails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.

marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce, there are others complaining of similar issues in the threads that you might want to look for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll post that later when I am with the car again. I checked through a lot of previous threads and the few solutions that have helped others on occasion were no good for me.

marchnz said:
Suggest identifying the actual model of your unit; if it's an MTCD or mtce(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So this is an MTCE unit:
MTCE_LM_V3.12_1
May 16 2019
Model: PX5(1024x600)
CPU: Octa-core Cortex-A53 @ 1.5G
Build number: rk3368-userdebug 9 PQ2A and I can type out the rest if it's important.
So I guess that means it's from LEI_MA Lei Electronics Inc
I have also found that the static is caused by the lights. With headlights / sidelights OFF, there is no static. It *doesn't* appear to be the result of the LCD or the lights of the buttons on the unit (this has been an issue for others). When I turn the headlights off, the static goes immediately but the lights on the unit remain on for half a second - but the static has already ceased.
So with that knowledge, should I move this post or is this the place for MTCE discussion as well?
Any thoughts on how best to tackle the interference from the lights would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello,
I hope you find solution with the static.
Since i am interested also for this unit, can you tell if everything else works fine?
Does the CANbus fitted directly?
Steering wheel controls works fine?
How much time the unit need to boot?
Thanks

Same unit, same Problem. VW Golf 5 (2008).
I could solve the problem. The radio antenna is not connected and it is gone. Likewise with only one antenna connected (double fakra), it is gone. Radio still works.

Question Stock replacement nav for Vitara

Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.

Racker_CRO said:
Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.

j0hn83 said:
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I decided to go with Mekede and I bought adapter cable for rev camera. It should all arrive in 2 weeks so I will know than if that was a good choice .

Today I got my stock radio out so I can note all connectors and maybe map them with M500S ones.
Here is a picture of stock Vitara Bosch head unit with description for each connector
GPS - you need FAKRA to SMA adapter
ANT - provided with M500S radio
DAB - you need to buy USB DAB device and FAKRA to SMA adapter (antenna you get with USB radio is not needed)
AUX - not used
MIC - this will be an issue since M500S doesn't have any connector for using stock mic in roof
CAM - you need extra adapter so you can use your stock camera with M500S
USB - compatible with M500S connector + you will get 2 extra USB connectors you can use
H BRAKE - not used on M500S, on stock one you need it to set up AA or mirrorlink
ISO/MAIN - speakers, power, etc.
So only one issue remains and that is how to use stock mics. This is all theoretical for now because I'm still waiting for unit and adapters.
Br.

So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.

Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera should be fairly simple to fault find but the wiring depends on whether you are using a canbus or not.
Answer that and someone will help with connecting the camera properly.

No canbus is used nor it is need for Vitara as I was told.
I'm guessing purple REV wire should get power once I put it in reverse and switch screen to backup camera. I measured voltage on blue wire from adapter and there is no voltage while in reverse.

Solved it! Reverse signal 12V was coming from HANDBRAKE connector. I added extra wire from that pin to purple and blue wires and everthing works.

Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this what you're looking for?

j0hn83 said:
Is this what you're looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES! Thank you

Cable arrived and works like a charm. So far I managed to get almost all parts in Vitara to work with Mekede unit except external OEM mic. It will take some testing and soldering.

Question Mekede M700S RCA Outputs + Other Stuff

Good afternoon,
Recently bought a non-brand headunit from Amazon seller "Biorunn".
I received my unit and it works well. Seller confirmed it is a Mekede M700S.
I ran into an issue when trying to setup the RCA connections.
They provide 2 harnesses - 1 with "Right" and "Left" out. Yes, just generic left and right.
1 with "Rear Right" and "Rear Left".
The issue is that, the harness with right and left channels (same harness with 4G Sim Tray) connects fine, but there no where to connect my rear channel harness.
Am i missing something here? Am i supposed to use an RCA splitter for Front and Rear differentiation?
Then,
I installed Fake Device Test. To no surprise, it has faked the Android version, and possibly the RAM too?
I bought the 8GB/128GB model. Both the system and Device Test come back with 8GB recognized and installed, but only 6GB is usable. What's going on with the other 2GB? I know Android uses at most 500MB so that leaves 1.5GB unaccessable? That doesn't sound right to me. Also, the UIS7862 only supports up to 6GB, soooooo Scam?
I updated the firmware to Mariodantas's mod. That seemed to get the CANBus and steering wheel controls to work. Haven't tested TPMS yet but i would assume it works since SW controls, rear camera works. Also, unsure about the Mic.... will that work too or do i need to install the provided one.
As stated, this was purchased thru Amazon so i do have some buyer protection, but must act quick as i received the unit yesterday.
Thats all for now. Thank you in advance!

> Am i missing something here? Am i supposed to use an RCA splitter for Front and Rear differentiation?
depends on the vehicle-specific harness included with the unit. I've found that on many of them, they only provide a single set of RCA connections for both front/rear, having loops between the pins. What vehicle are you using this with? What's the harness look like? Does your car use an external amp to power some or all of the speakers? If not, you don't need to connect the RCAs at all.
> Also, the UIS7862 only supports up to 6GB, soooooo Scam?
RAM physically installed and usable by the SoC are two different things. Your unit has 8GB installed, 6GB of which is usable by the SoC.
> I updated the firmware to Mariodantas's mod. That seemed to get the CANBus and steering wheel controls to work.
would have no effect, CANBUS vehicle and box type must be selected properly in factory settings for steering wheel controls and other CAN-related items to work. Changing the kernel alone would not affect these functions