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What tablet do I get?
I was wondering if anyone had any good suggestions for a tablet to install into my dash. The Archos 5 IMT looks like it has almost everything I want, but I would really like a 7".
It needs:
Built-in GPS (or enough ports for a dongle, and support for a dongle. I don't want bluetooth, because I don't want to have to worry about it losing power)
FM receiver (I know there are internet radio apps, but I want to be able to use this offline.. if it's possible)
Capacitive screen (Cause I want it) with a wide viewing angle.
I don't care much about which version of Android it has, it will pretty much just be used for GPS and Music/video.
As a side note, I'm still doing research, but if anyone knows how to, or knows where there's a tutorial, I need to figure out how to hook the tablet to the speakers. I don't really want to have to use a head unit, though that would be the easy way. There must be some kind of small device I can use that has a volume knob and maybe fade/balance controls that I can install anywhere in the truck.
Thanks for reading!
I have installed the archos 5IT in my dash and love it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kUsui3-5Y0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nN-8Hrf0sM
Its not capacitive but it does not suffer from the glare that the glass screens have. As far as touch sensitivity its pretty acurate for a resistive device.
I dont have the gps signal issues most have as i have the flash version and not the hard drive based ones as most say the hdd must be blocking the gps. I paid for the one time map fee from Ndrive but also tether to my phone and use google maps as well.
I have over 100 youtube music video's in mp4 format ripped to the device and use those as my music and have it set to random play and it goes from one file to the next without having to select a new video once one is over.
Thanks!
Some good input there. I'll have to keep that in mind. I just really think a 7" would look a lot better. Especially in my F150 XLT. Seems like the 5" would look dinky, and I have room for a 7".
If archos put the 5's guts into the 7 form factor, I'd buy 2 right now. Rly.
Also, for anyone who stumbled on this, I think it won't be too hard to set this up without using a head unit. (I could be wrong on some of the technical info, but I think I have the right idea here.) Your amplifier has a 'plug' with like 20 wires attached coming out. Normally, your radio has a plug that fits this plug. You plug it in, and now the radio's attached to the amp, which is attached to the speakers. Good to go. So you buy a new plug (called a wire harness), one that fits your amplifier (assuming stock amplifier, I will just look up 2000 F150 wire harness on amazon, and that's it), and wire up your tablet to it instead of your radio.
The wire harness puts out a 12v (ignition on) wire. You can adapt this to a USB and use that to charge the device. Set it to display/wifi/gps/all other battery draining crap off while not charging. When you turn the car on, it's now "Charging" and everything will turn off. I think it should be able to 'sleep' for a few days, so it should be 'always on' as far as you can tell.
The harness also has a wire for each of the 4 speakers, maybe subwoofers too, I forget now. I'm sure someone makes a product that controls these easily, I'm going to have to go to a local car audio shop, and ask some questions. Hopefully I can put the audio out from the tablet into the audio in of this unknown device. Then I should be able to wire the unknown device to the wiring harness. If I can't find something, I think I'll just make my own circuit, 3 Pots for volume, fade and balance, some resistors or something.. we'll see if I can't just buy something. The rest of the EQ can be done on the tablet.
(If I do make my own, I want to use a slide-style pot for volume instead of a rotating one. I think that'd be the nuts.)
Wiring harness: Ignition on wire adapted to USB. Speaker wires wired to volume/fade/bal device.
Tablet: plug in USB, and connect audio out to volume/fade/bal device.
Easy cheesy.
I'll be updating.
This thing is starting to look like it'll be really easy to do.
I can't get started 'til I find my tablet though. I would love to hear some more ideas! THANKS!
they updated the 7" home with newer hardware but it does not have gps. I would look into the upcoming wifi only samsung galaxy tab and see if it will have gps.
your on the right track with the audio wiring however you would better off getting a cheap 4ch amp to do it as you need power to pump the speakers the way you are talking about wiring it up would basically have the android device trying to power door speakers from the headphone output amp. If you got a cheap 4 ch amp and wired it through the stock vehicle harness you would have all the hookups u need just get the headphone to rca cable and a set of splitters to power all 4 channels of the amp volume could be controlled from the android device. If the amp had external volume remote or if you wired one inline with the headphone output you could have better volume control however the turning on and off of the amp might send a pop to the speakers as the amp would always be turned up.
Hmm
I was under the impression that my vehicle came with a stock amp. Everything's stock (as far as I know, got it used and haven't tinkered with it yet.)
Just trying to understand better, as I have never dealt with car stereos before.
So my stereo was supplying power to the speakers before? There's not an amp in my truck right now between the stereo and the speakers?
EDIT:
I'm almost thinking of getting something really cheap, as I plan on permanently mounting it in the dash. Something Chinese maybe?
I'm sure the Galaxy Tab would work really well, but it's a bit expensive for a GPS/radio/computer.. now that I'm typing this out, that's a ****ing deal! Maybe I will get something nice to pop in there.
I found a tutorial online for making the 12v ignition into 2 USBs, so I am now considering a usb-powered bluetooth gps. Too bad it adds $50 to the cost.
Alright
Nope, no amp in the F-150 standard. It's in the head unit. So I will need to get an amp.
I figure I can move this whole system to my next car (Plan on getting a new truck in 3-4 years.. or sooner if this one decides to go on me), so the amp is an investment.
Truck has 4 speakers stock (no subwoofers)
I will hook those 4 speakers to the amp I buy. (I'll have to look up how to install an amp now.. geesh.)
I will put the audio out from my tablet into the amp.
Now I have to figure out how the 12v ignition on is gonna work, since I'm now going through a new amp. I found a tutorial on instructables titled "12v to USB adapter \ 12v to 5v transformer (great for cars)" I'm not allowed to post links yet, but I'm sure you can find it if you want it.
Yeah the amp any small 4ch or 2ch if you dont care about front rear fade will work..
As far as hooking up an amp they are pretty easy just need to run your own main power wire for the 12v constant for the amp. 8-10 gage should be fine for 400-600w 2 or 4 ch amp to power door speakers....
then use your red ignition wire from the harness u get to power the remote to the amp so its only on with the ignition. Extent the speaker wires to reach your amp you can mount under the passenger side dash or behind the center consol as trucks have plenty of room under there.
the wires from the harness you get to plug into your factory radio harness are easy to figure out as the colors have been standard for a while. Black is ground but you will need your own closest to the amp as possible any bare metal spot you can find that has a bolt to the frame or under dash should suffice. The black from the harness will power the usb fine. Yellow is constant + (always on) if you want the usb to always have power if not use the red as its only on with the ignition it will have enogh amps to power the remote for the amp and charge/power the tablet. green and purple are rear speakers, white/gray are front speakers. the remaining wire colors depend on the vehicle if they have them like blue is for power antenna or factory amp turn on. orange is to dim an after market head unit display when the head lights are on.
I was in best buy a few weeks ago and saw the archos 7 home tablet for $129 almost got one just because of the deal but dont need it as the 5it i have is fine and has the built in gps. but if using an external bluetooth gps is the route you go the 7 should be great. You will just need to find your own gps app or use google maps and have to terher to something like a smart phone for data.
http://www.archos.com/products/ta/archos_7/specs.html?country=us&lang=en
they show the gps icon on the home screen however it does not have built in gps. there are a ton of gps solutions you can side load or get from android market.
Damn...
Was just about to order the 7 home. Such a good deal.
No bluetooth...
The search continues.
i was searching ebay for something 7" that had gps or bluetooth and nothing cheap cought my eye so i took the 7" tag out and added 2.2 for froyo and gps...
I came up with this. http://goo.gl/hyNtC
All you would need to look like the soundman from youtube with his f150 ipad 2 install.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jr3_zLHTbY
May have found a contender.
a 10 inch would be nice, but I don't know how to do fiberglass, and for my first car mod, I'd prefer to keep it simple. a 7-inch should just fit in my double din.
Found this little gem.
http://www.dinodirect.com/tablet-pc...camera-android.html?ddse= gps&utm_source= gps
Gonna look at it more when I get home, will probably buy it. Only thing that's funky about it is that it charges with AC. We'll see...
A software to be written to tell it to go to sleep immediately when "ac" power is removed would be nice, also, that app to tell music/radio to resume on "wake" would be nice.
That way it plays the true car infotainment roll.
A device with USB host would almost be required before I dig into android platform for my infotainment system.
I have a custom built net-top based system built in my truck using a 7" touch screen, automatic power supply from mini-box.com, and a USB controller connected to my steering wheel control buttons. USB host is a must for me!
Sounds like a good setup. Honestly i'm fine with the stock radio in my truck, but I like to tinker.
Still haven't found the right device. I'm buying an Arnova 8 when they switch to the new model, and I'll give that a test fit.. see how it goes.
My plan is to set the device to have the display always on when plugged in. It's in settings or something. If it's wired to the ignition, should work right? We'll see.
I think if I get juice defender and set it to aggressive (no gps, no wifi, no bluetooth, no anything), it should stay on for a while in standby.
Well...
Seems like Android Tablets haven't matured enough for my project. I don't see a cheap 7" capacitive tablet with GPS coming out anytime soon. I'm going to go ahead and get a stereo with rear usb and aux ports, and make a mount for my phone. Should be fun. I'll make a new post with pictures and instructions, and link it here.
Oh well...
My 2 cents...
I've been looking to do the same thing. I've been digging around for a good table and this is the best I've got. Specs wise, it fits the bill. But I can't find any good reviews.
http://hotmid.com/wits-a81h-tablet-cortex-a8-7-capacitive-touchscreen-android-2-3-gps-wifi.html
Just in case that link doesn't work...
http://mp4nation.net/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68&products_id=483
The big thing I'm looking for is a parts list. Amp, harnesses, etc. And a how-to would be the coolest as far as basic wiring for power and sound.
The xoom
T-Mobile G2 1.42 GHZ
I recommend the Asus eee pad transformer. 98percent the same as motorola xoom and lighter
Sent from my U20i using XDA Premium App
concept after-market product
What appears to be lacking in the market currently is a ready-to-use 2DIN or double-din head unit that is basically a permanent in-dash universal docking system such that you can simply pop in a 5 or 7 inch tablet (or adaptable for say a minimum 4 inch or greater smartphone?) with the head unit's rear interface designed for plugging into the car's power, sound system, and steering wheel controls just like an aftermarket care stereo. Sorta like the currently available units that utilize removable electronic faceplates-- except here the tablet or smartphone itself is the "removable faceplate".
Spepper, I have seen one on Ebay. Looks a bit dodgy but might be good:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ES666MO-...153004?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item336b841f6c
ES666MO Car DVD/GPS/ANDROIT TABLET
http://ca-fi.com/en/ it's not a removable tablet, but it's an all-in-one Android-powered double-din radio, looks awesome, but it comes at a price because it has all the hardware built-in
stevey500 said:
A software to be written to tell it to go to sleep immediately when "ac" power is removed would be nice, also, that app to tell music/radio to resume on "wake" would be nice.
That way it plays the true car infotainment roll.
A device with USB host would almost be required before I dig into android platform for my infotainment system.
I have a custom built net-top based system built in my truck using a 7" touch screen, automatic power supply from mini-box.com, and a USB controller connected to my steering wheel control buttons. USB host is a must for me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wake-up is covered using plug in launcher from the market.
I am checking if it can be used for the sleep portion.
Does anyone know where to source such a beast?
In case it's not clear, what I want is a cable with a 3.5mm jack on one end - which you plug into the phone - and a 3.5mm socket on the other end - into which you plug your own headphones. In the middle, a mic, call answer button, and music control buttons.
I would've thought such a thing would be trivial to find, but it's not. For me, anyway. No matter what I put into eBay I can't find one that says it'll work for Android / our phone - I can find ones for the iPhone, but I don't know if they'd work on the Doubleshot / Android.
Anyone? thanks! I do *not* want a full headset with its own earphones - I have much better ones of my own I want to use.
You could try searching up an aux cable + mic for cars (eg. that Griffin one)
and combine it with a 3.5mm stereo female to female adapter
I guess that would work...it'd be nice to have something a bit less cumbersome, though. Thanks for the idea though!
The video cable I use for tv-out is an iPod video cable - if that helps.
thanks, blue - the thing I'm worried about is the music controls; I don't think Android and iPhone use the same system for those. Note that Klipsch make two different versions of their s4 headset, one for iPhone and one for Android - if both used the same controls then presumably there'd be no reason to do that...
I would take a lok at the Motorola S805, its a big earmuff dj style bluetooth that has playback controls on it.
Via bluetooth I can confirm it can play, pause, volume, next track and previous track controls. It also has a 3.5mm stereo jack in case you dont want to deal with bluetooh, but I dont actually have a 3.5mm cable to test it out on.
AdamWill said:
thanks, blue - the thing I'm worried about is the music controls; I don't think Android and iPhone use the same system for those. Note that Klipsch make two different versions of their s4 headset, one for iPhone and one for Android - if both used the same controls then presumably there'd be no reason to do that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's probably good thinking - i'll confess I have no clue how iOS handles anything. If you find out for sure one way or the other please let us know back here.
Good luck!
Elister: yeah, bt is one obvious option - I actually have a bt adapter, and bt music controls are standardized (it's one of the official bt profiles) so you can more or less rely on them working. But the drawbacks are that bt audio reduces quality somewhat, bt link is never as reliable as a cable, and you have extra battery drain on the phone and the bt adapter's battery to charge...just more fiddling around :/
I just received my Tronsmart TS7 Glacier from Geekbuying. The phone is a nice HTC One lookalike with some awesome features including a long life 2200 mah battery, MTK6589 Quad Core processor, 1 GB RAM and a crystal clear screen. It is extremely well built and feels both heavy and solidi the hand. The included cover is rubbish, though it is free in the package so I'm not going to complain. Bluetooth supports A2DP, which works well with my Bluetooth stereo. The bottom menu, home and back keys are capacitive and illuminated - though they are so dim, that they could have avoided backlighting them altogether.The device was easy enough to root, so all in all great value. Make sure you ask for a discount for the phone, after initiating live chat on Geekbuying. I am not affiliated to them.
Oddly enough, the package had the IMEI stickers in the box, which said Cubot One. They look visually identical and I wanted to check if they are infact the same pieces, for firmware support. Can anyone confirm this please?
The supplied headset is rubbish, so I used a BlackBerry and an iPhone "headset" (Headphones with a built in mic and that has 4 contacts on the end of the 3.5mm jack) and used it with the phone. Unfortunately the headset is detected as a headphone only (i.e. With no mic; You see this on an icon near the Wifi signal) - spitting out terrible muffled sounds, unless I press and hold the (Call / End) button on the cord. The second I let go of the button, the sound returns to a terrible state.
If I plug in regular headphones, without a mic, I'm fine, but I have this problem with headsets (Again - headphones with a built in mic with call / end button) used with the TS7.Do any of you have a similar issue? I'm worried I got a half lemon. It's really bothering me. Can this be fixed by software?
Would love to hear back from you. on whether this is a common problem, or one only with my set.
P.S. The rubbish supplied headset is detected / works fine - But they sound TERRIBLE! The supplied headset also works well with my Blackberry 9790 - but my Blackberry headset does not work well with the TS7. Any thoughts? Do I need a special headset?
Thanks in advance,
GP = Dubai
Bump...
Anyone!?
g_patkar said:
I just received my Tronsmart TS7 Glacier from Geekbuying. The phone is a nice HTC One lookalike with some awesome features including a long life 2200 mah battery, MTK6589 Quad Core processor, 1 GB RAM and a crystal clear screen. It is extremely well built and feels both heavy and solidi the hand. The included cover is rubbish, though it is free in the package so I'm not going to complain. Bluetooth supports A2DP, which works well with my Bluetooth stereo. The bottom menu, home and back keys are capacitive and illuminated - though they are so dim, that they could have avoided backlighting them altogether.The device was easy enough to root, so all in all great value. Make sure you ask for a discount for the phone, after initiating live chat on Geekbuying. I am not affiliated to them.
Oddly enough, the package had the IMEI stickers in the box, which said Cubot One. They look visually identical and I wanted to check if they are infact the same pieces, for firmware support. Can anyone confirm this please?
The supplied headset is rubbish, so I used a BlackBerry and an iPhone "headset" (Headphones with a built in mic and that has 4 contacts on the end of the 3.5mm jack) and used it with the phone. Unfortunately the headset is detected as a headphone only (i.e. With no mic; You see this on an icon near the Wifi signal) - spitting out terrible muffled sounds, unless I press and hold the (Call / End) button on the cord. The second I let go of the button, the sound returns to a terrible state.
If I plug in regular headphones, without a mic, I'm fine, but I have this problem with headsets (Again - headphones with a built in mic with call / end button) used with the TS7.Do any of you have a similar issue? I'm worried I got a half lemon. It's really bothering me. Can this be fixed by software?
Would love to hear back from you. on whether this is a common problem, or one only with my set.
P.S. The rubbish supplied headset is detected / works fine - But they sound TERRIBLE! The supplied headset also works well with my Blackberry 9790 - but my Blackberry headset does not work well with the TS7. Any thoughts? Do I need a special headset?
Thanks in advance,
GP = Dubai
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there are several kinds of headset with MIC. IPHONE'S can not work with chinese phone. NOKIA'S works
g_patkar said:
Bump...
Anyone!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I have the Cubot One, and have exact the same problem. The rubbish boxed white earphone works, but any of my Sennheisers wont. I think it has something to do with the TRRS standards but I have no fix yet. Have you solved it already??
I have the same problem!
g_patkar said:
Bump...
Anyone!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem man, and I was wondering If I'm the only one!!!
I tried with sony ericsson headphones...
And I have an additional problem.. when I connect my phone to my pc speakers or my amplifier and the big speakers, It pauses the music, disconnects and connects again to the cable... Every time I press play it does the same!
And another thing that I couldn't figure out with this phone is that when I go to install a big game it tries to install the sd data to phone's storage,
and says that I don't have enought free space... Even though from starage setting I have set both those settings to SD card!!!
alexander703806 said:
I have the same problem man, and I was wondering If I'm the only one!!!
I tried with sony ericsson headphones...
And I have an additional problem.. when I connect my phone to my pc speakers or my amplifier and the big speakers, It pauses the music, disconnects and connects again to the cable... Every time I press play it does the same!
And another thing that I couldn't figure out with this phone is that when I go to install a big game it tries to install the sd data to phone's storage,
and says that I don't have enought free space... Even though from starage setting I have set both those settings to SD card!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fount this topic because and I have that problem and do just what you say. I got my phone few days ago.
I try one my in-ear headphones and have terrible sound, then I try speakers from the computer, and when I press play, it let sound for 1 sec and stop immediately. My first conclusion was that perhaps it has a weak sound output on jack, or headphones and speakers have too much ohms resistance.
II hope you will find some solution.
For the memory, try replacing the internal memory to the memory card using this procedure (put link in google translator to translate in english): http://www.htcmania.com/showthread.php?t=616319
Hi there. I do not have the pausing problem, but I can now listen to any headphones / headsets with an adapter I bought from eBay.
Seach for "iphone to nokia adapter" on Ebay. It should cost between $2.50 to $3.00.
Hope it helps - I am enjoying all my headsets with the TS7 now (Blackberry, iphone, beats etc).
Do any of you know if there are any firmware updates for this phone?
Thanks...
g_patkar said:
Hi there. I do not have the pausing problem, but I can now listen to any headphones / headsets with an adapter I bought from eBay.
Seach for "iphone to nokia adapter" on Ebay. It should cost between $2.50 to $3.00.
Hope it helps - I am enjoying all my headsets with the TS7 now (Blackberry, iphone, beats etc).
Do any of you know if there are any firmware updates for this phone?
Thanks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm it works. I just got a cable that I ordered 14.4. for headphones. Now the sound is normal (no more like to play in a barrel), and recognizes the headset with a microphone (in the taskbar near the clock displays the headset with a microphone, before was just headphone icon). But I still can not play music through the speakers of the computer. Immediately after press play, the song stops and disconnect the speakers. Probably they have too much resistance or something that can not "push" sound.
Oh, and here's a link cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/22132695223...arms=gh1g=I221326952237.N19.S2.M-34513.R2.TR2
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
supersilko said:
I returned my mtcd unit because of wifi and bluetooth issues. The antenna issue you have is probably because you hooked up to remote blue line instead of antenna blue line.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, i might have... but what did you replace the MTCD unit with, an MTCB?
EDIT: I have a crazy idea to keep my nice single din alpine unit connected to my sound system and mount it in my glove box, then connect the android unit to its aux in. Then put the steering wheel controls on a 3.5mm switch box between both units. I'd use the alpine for audio processing, bluetooth music, and hands free calls, then the android for android apps + backup camera and thumbstick music. Am I insane or would this be a good compromise? My phone would also control all the bluetooth peripherals I mentioned. I also plan on getting a dedicated second battery for the audio equipment (already have 2 amps plus a capacitor) so that might be more critical afterwards.
I'm back to stock stereo. Gonna look around for a good unit that is coming later.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930AZ using Tapatalk
I just got a Joying unit for a Jeep this weekend.
#1 - can't help, Jeep antenna stays up all the time
#2 - I only use Bluetooth for phone calls or playing audio, works fine in both scenarios. One odd caveat is that if I am on a phone call the audio seems only to come out of the front passenger speaker. I use the included external mic and people say I sound fine
#3 - My steering wheel controls half work. Volume and mute work all the time, same for Bluetooth phone. The controls to change the track only work on stock apps like Music, A2DP, DVD, etc, meaning it does not work on Google Play Music or Pandora. Volume steering wheel controls work fine with Pandora and Google Play Music
I have the Same Unit.. I have it on the bench as I was getting ready to installing in place of my Newsmy. I tested the remote lines tonight.
Power antenna, shows 12v once power is applied.. stays at 12v until Accessory power is removed.
Amp Remote works as it should, it I power off the radio from the knob. the 12v amp remote turns off.. Ant stays on.. ALL THE TIME. This unit is no better than my Newsmy. I have had it too long now to return it. Guess I will sell it for something simple. I am going to miss the back up camera, but I need something that fully works as I have full power mast antenna..
TallgeeseIV said:
So I just got an MTCD head unit (JY-UL-135). My first Android head unit and so far I'm massively underwhelmed and need guidance to fix a few potential issues. I try to keep my car as stock-looking as possible, so I REALLY don't want switches and knobs all over my interior to do things any other head unit would...
So, issue 1.) The power antenna on my car comes up whenever the head unit is on, even when I'm not using the radio. I almost never use the radio and I don't want my antenna up all the time. Any way to fix this without a switch or disconnecting it entirely?
2.) Bluetooth... I'm not heart broken about losing clear bluetooth audio streaming, (something my cheaper alpine unit had no problem with...) and i use a wired mic, but if this thing can't connect to basic blutooth tech, i may return it. 90% of the reason i got this thing was for a bluetooth garage remote, obd2 reader, bluetooth tire pressure sensors, and a bluetooth arduino board for another project. If this really can't do things even my phone can, it's junk. Those accessories will be delivered next week so i'll find out then but it seems like they shipped this unit with broken bluetooth and still haven't fixed it. Help?
3.) Steering wheel controls. So i understand that without xposed, android head units can only use steering wheel controls for the stock apps. And xposed doesn't work on MTCD units yet...
It's also the slowest android i've seen since my old, old. OLD droid x but that may not be that big a deal over time. So can anyone point me in the right direction for these issues? Also does anyone make a better unit than these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JY-UL124 here
+1 to Bluetooth issues. SuperSU completely broke bluetooth forcing me to reflash to get any functionality back.
I'm really bummed they basically lock you into joining only a phone and an ODB device and that's it. Nothing else can be paired with the unit. This is a little hokey and really devalues the whole system in my opinion.
Bluetooth has pretty poor sound quality through the unit too but it may not be bluetooth specifically causing the issue. I drive an FJ cruiser so cabin sound proofing isn't great to begin with. To compete with road noise I have to blast the stereo and the highs come up fuzzy in the process. When I'm stopped or idleing it seems that most of my issue goes away and the sound isn't half bad provided I'm playing from a sound file physically on my phone and not streaming. I need to tear into it again later to install the front camera and fog lights so when I do that I'll add in some capacitors and a torrid to try to clean up power to the unit to see if that helps.
If I'm right, the bluetooth is functional so far as taking the signal and turning it into meaningful audio. It's a digital technology so either the data gets there or it doesn't. I haven't dug too much into the spec but I assume I should be hearing whatever I hear at idle at any speed. Anyhow, once that is turned into an analog signal for delivery to the speakers (and the functional parts in between) that's where you can introduce sound degradation. So this is a function of the amp, or the fact that my hookup wires or so long, or something. I have also noticed that shortly after "bluetoothing" a short sound like a delivery notice the amp stays on for a short second or so and you can hear the interference with some digital rf. (like the sound you get when you put a cell phone too close to computer speakers) It's faint but it is there along with some static. There is no way that bare speaker wire could pick up digital rf and make it sound that loud, so that means somehow rf is leaking into the circuitry before the amp.
I'm praying I'm right and it's leaking in through power somewhere cause that's an easy fix. If it's not then it's something with the board design and there's rf leaking from the circuitry and making it into the audio signal inside the unit. That has a low probability of being fixable.
Hi there guys.
I just bought a piece of Eonon GA8157 from Eonon. After the install, i got a few small issues (or big, depending on my mood ). Although the biggest of them is that my rear amplifier, that amplifies the subwoofer and the rear speakers isn't working, i have no ideea why, because i have alot of cables, and they were just plug and play.
My problem is the internet. I have two modems along with sim cards inserted. One is ZTE MF667 and the other is ZTE K3565-Z. None of them works. I don't know if there is a list of supported modems, but i thought that they were just plug and play.
From what i understand, i can however make these work if i root my device. I'm great at rooting mobile devices, but i don't want to ruin something to this head unit because it seems hard to modify something.
So, that is the question. Can i root this head unit, or install another firmware, or something to make this usb modems work?
If not, can you recomend me another modem? this unit is dead without internet connection, and i don't want to drain my phone battery by hotspotting it.
Operation System Android 7.1
CPU Processor RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad-Core
RAM SAMSUNG DDR3, 2GB
Memory 16 GB
Based on what i read, i guess that my device is PX3.
Thank you, in advance!
Alin.
I have a 2007 A4 with a MTCD_XRC head unit and I also have the rear amp, but I notice that the rear speakers are much lower then the fronts. I bought a line level converter and was messing with that and a ground loop isolator to get rid of the engine noise. But I have noticed after messing with it, even without ANY rca cables plugged in I still get audio out haha. I have looked at the wiring and I believe what needs to happen to make things totally correct is you need to rewire the back rca cables to go through the converter and completely bypass the rear amp as the head unit has enough juice to power all of the speakers. I also noticed after messing with things that I no longer needed the isolator on any of the speakers and I just moved the center to the rear a few click and it seems to level things out for the time being.
I've messed with a Huewei Cricket USB 4g dealio here and I was able to kind of get it working by using the PPP widget, but I was not getting connected, but the lights were changing so I am pretty sure its working, it just needs some fine tuning (I have project fi as my service provider)
I can try to help ya out if you need a hand, but I if you look further into some of the stuff I have mentioned I think you can figure it out.
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Fakken said:
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The built in sub runs off of the rear amp as well. I disconnected and removed that a long time ago and I have a box in my trunk with 2 x 12 inch subs and a separate amp in the back left (It used to be mounted on the back side in the truck of a rear seat). And now with the android unit I ran a dedicated RCA from the back to the trunk for my external amp, I used to run it off of the line outs I tapped into on the rear stock amp.
So if you just wire to the rear speakers directly you should be good.
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Fakken said:
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly the same, but some good similar info just to dig through to get ideas, I do not agree with all of it but just good to mull over. I have so many pages saved of people talking about similar stuff when I was doing research on mine haha.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7158675-Head-Unit-Recommendation/page2