Hi,
I just replaced the broken display in my Google Pixel. In the process I noticed that my Pixel did not have the metal clip which holds the display connector:
https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/XTZjRHITeSTpkjwG.large
I am not sure why it is missing, I am wondering if Google realized that it is not needed and implemented it as a cost saving method. On the other hand then it would be more than strange that they add the two T5 Torx screws.
In case anybody has a broken Pixel with no intention to repair, I would appreciate if I could get the metal clip.
Many thanks
Rainer
Related
EDIT 2011 08 13: Skip to the post where I'm working on a guide.
Also:
EDIT 2011 08 13: I have since ordered a Black Battery Cover to match it. However, I still can't find a Black "8.0 Xenon" label and a Black little rubber from the top left.
====
Background info:
Ok, so my XT720 is really beat up right now, and I'm looking into replacing the whole housing of my phone.
I bought these:
Front and back housing
Battery cover
(Yes, so the back housing is black and the battery cover is blue, I plan on vinyl dying it)
But I haven't been able to find any guide on disassembly and assembly...
Has anyone tried?
Hmm, you may run into some issues, that is for the xt701 which as far as I know has no HDMI out.
So the housing probably will not either
cdstewart said:
Hmm, you may run into some issues, that is for the xt701 which as far as I know has no HDMI out.
So the housing probably will not either
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked just now, it actually does have the HDMI out port.
The XT701 case will not fit the XT720. I read somewhere else, someone ordered this and tried. Will not fit. No HDMI port on the 701 and the USB port is on the other side up by the power button.
Why not use the correct case? http://cnn.cn/shop/motorola-milestone-xt720-housing-p-10055.html
dude,
the phone is made of really strong casing. I'm wondering how did u do it to be beaten up.
I think no one has gone thus far till taking the phone apart. Just my two cents here, beware that the body has 6 screws, 2 totally hidden and 2 partially hidden.
the top two screws are hidden under the rubber bud beside the camera lens and under "8.0 Xenon" label.
the middle row of 2 screws are visible just above the battery.
the bottom row of screws are partially hidden underneath the loud-speaker grills. The grill might be damage in the process of removing these screws. but since you're replacing the whole housing, it won't be a problem for you.
Brian5475E said:
The XT701 case will not fit the XT720. I read somewhere else, someone ordered this and tried. Will not fit. No HDMI port on the 701 and the USB port is on the other side up by the power button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you link me to that source?
Because the housing I got has an HDMI port on the other side of the power button, and the USB port is on the left side of the phone, just like my current housing.
spiderx_mm said:
the phone is made of really strong casing. I'm wondering how did u do it to be beaten up.
=snip=
The grill might be damage in the process of removing these screws. but since you're replacing the whole housing, it won't be a problem for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firstly, thanks for the heads up about the screw locations!
I carry my phone in my keys pocket, and it banged up the chrome bezel a lot... After I swap it I'll put it in another pocket.
The grill actually doesn't come with the replacement housing, so thanks for the warning about potentially damaging it!
Ok so I finally decided to try putting on that XT701 casing on my XT720.
==== Step 1
I used a T5 screwdriver. And as explained, there's 6 screws:
- 2 of them are openly accessible after you take off the battery cover.
- 2 of them are under the speaker grill - simply run your fingers under it to pry it out
- 2 of them are at the top:
1 under the "8.0 Xenon" label - use a push pin and run it along the edge to pry it open
1 under the top left tiny rubber cover - again, use a push pin, dig into it and pry it out
==== Step 2
Run your fingers along the egde of the blue plastic (where the blue and silver meet) and dig your fingers in to unhook the mechanism. The blue back cover should come right off after you run your fingers around the contour 1-3 times.
==== Step 3
Here's where I'm stuck. I'm trying to separate the electronics from the front silver part. There's some screws that I believe attach the screen to the front cover. But those screws are even smaller and my T5 did not work on them. I just ordered a set of T4 and T3 screwdrivers from China. So I'll get back to this in maybe 3-4 weeks.
Wow, black looks sexy. Post some pictures when youre done.
You got as far as I did
Hahutzy said:
Ok so I finally decided to try putting on that XT701 casing on my XT720.
==== Step 1
I used a T5 screwdriver. And as explained, there's 6 screws:
- 2 of them are openly accessible after you take off the battery cover.
- 2 of them are under the speaker grill - simply run your fingers under it to pry it out
- 2 of them are at the top:
1 under the "8.0 Xenon" label - use a push pin and run it along the edge to pry it open
1 under the top left tiny rubber cover - again, use a push pin, dig into it and pry it out
==== Step 2
Run your fingers along the egde of the blue plastic (where the blue and silver meet) and dig your fingers in to unhook the mechanism. The blue back cover should come right off after you run your fingers around the contour 1-3 times.
==== Step 3
Here's where I'm stuck. I'm trying to separate the electronics from the front silver part. There's some screws that I believe attach the screen to the front cover. But those screws are even smaller and my T5 did not work on them. I just ordered a set of T4 and T3 screwdrivers from China. So I'll get back to this in maybe 3-4 weeks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, you got as far as I did... I got the smaller torx bits & started my attempt to separte the electronics from the face plate... found my fingers were too large to manipulate & figured I'd do more harm than good... I still have the replacement housing... phunny thing, a few months after giving up, my 3g radio stopped working.. Cinci Bell tech couldn't fix (go figure!)... so I ended up buying the phone insurance for 6 bucks a month & got a free replacement.... Housing fixed! Bouyaaah!... If anyone wants the housing I have, you pay shipping & I'll send it to you... it is missing the USB door (i used it on my old XT720). Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
TheoKondak said:
I was trying to change digitizer to my tf300 by following this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_JRLd7lPv8 .The video is really bad, considering that this guy will show you a tf300 that has been opened before or something, because its very easy for him to do certain things, that i found very hard,and had to use other techniques.For example, i had really hard time separating the old digitizer and the plastic frame. In order to separate these two parts, i used some heat blowing gun (professional one) which turned to be very effective separating the digitizer from the plastic frame, but the plastic got wraped (as you can see in pic). Also, i don't have an adhesive tape or glue in order to stick the new digitizer to the frame so i m unable to stick the new digitizer to the frame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwz1cw2pu1zrgst/IMG_20131010_135139.JPG
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You used too much heat. I don't think the warped frame will fit anymore. You might need to buy a new one. You really don't need heat initially though. Since you were gonna discard the broken digitizer anyway, you should've just scraped the glass off. Use this type of adhesive to glue back.
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
TheoKondak said:
Thanks for you info!I was thinking of puting the frame on a table, put the new digitizer to fit as much as possible, put some towel on, and then heat it again by gently pressing it with the iron.Else, where can i find a replacement part?I don't even know the name of this specific part so i can search for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the front plastic bezel. Sometimes it's available used on Ebay. Best place to inquire would be Asus Parts located somewhere in Europe. I wouldn't try what you're thinking of doing unless you can straighten it again using the broken digitizer, as the screen is extremely brittle and the slightest pressure might crack it.
I purchased a replacement screen/LCD for my i535 on Ebay which was supposed to be OEM including pretty much all of the internals but unfortunately didn't come as pictured.
I removed everything from my old frame but noticed the new one didn't have the silicone type seal where the motherboard meets the frame.
Would anyone know if that material is some sort of a conductive seal where the motherboard surface meets? I probably shouldn't have but laid very fine lines of silicone where the factory "silicone" was supposed to be.
After assembly my signal is going up and down, searching, going to Verizon to Extended.
My question is would that seal have had something to do with the motherboard making a necessary connection to the frame for reception?
Thank you for any input.
Hi,
Hope somebody can help me. I purchased a second hand oneplus one of which the screen was broken. I purchased a replacement screen and replaced it without any issues. After powering it back up and starting to use it I noticed there was an horizontal band around the middle of the screen not picking up touches. I opened it again and tested the same without the cover (camera lens and flash) and it worked fine. When putting everything back and closing it, the problem reappears. I noticed from looking at the tear downs pictures I was missing a small plastic piece sitting to the right of the connector and above the ear piece. No idea what it's is purpose but it is missing. I've read that some users have grounding issues and maybe this missing piece is important to ensure the connector and flex don't touch other parts of the body.
Anybody knows what the function of this plastic piece is and where I can purchase one. All resellers I found don't sell this piece. Agreed it doesn't look like it could get faulty but in my case I or the previous owner lost it.
Thanks.
Just put some tape where the piece should be and you should be fine.
I have the exact same issue, but my plastic piece isn't missing. Did you manage to solve it?
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs
https://tinyurl.com/htcu12
Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck