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Hallo,
I got my new MTCD head unit. Its this one:
http://www.erisinwholesale.com/special-car-dvd/audi/erisin-es3078a-7-android-51-car-dvd-gps-dab-for-audi-a4-497.html
I have dont done much testing yet, but i want to connect my external mic first.
The HU is delivered with an small additional harness that included a external mic and a 4-pin connector on the other end. (see attached photo - connector E)
I want to cut this harness and solder a standard mic-jack onto it.
(and then desolder the internal mic)
Does anyone know the pin-out of this 4-Pin connector?!
I guess this is standard on many of the newer MTCD units?!
check with ohmeter the ohm value between gnd and signal and use similar specs mic.
Dear OP, Im very interested in you project. I have nearly the same unit but for A3. I also wanted to wait with the mic until i come up with a better solution than using the one which came with it. Do you know how to disable the standard handsfree function of the car? Now the "Mode" button always messes with the Mode of the headunit. Where is the cars' mic plugged into? How can I access this spot?
in some (i think it was russian) forum i came across the ROM wich connects via Bluetooth to the standard handsfree of the car before calling. But with the standard Rom so far i was not able to conect to it.
PS: Does your unit snap into the DIN booth like the original radio? Mine does not snap in and therefore is kinda loose
i am not sure how to measure the correct ohm value of a mic.
If i connect my multimeter to the factory ext. mic, i see 1,325 kOhm
If i connect it to my parrot mic, i see 1,660kOhm (i have attached a photo of this mic)
But anyhow, i am more interessted in the 4-pin plug, this head unit uses for the ext. mic. hook up.
As you can see on the attached photos, the lower two pins are jumpered.
And the upper two pins go to the mic.
I also found, that one of those two lower pins is a 5V supply on the head unit.
So this harness of the factory external mic seems to have some sort of switch function also...
But i am not sure, what it does...
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Pedaaa said:
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. I was refering to the Mode Button on the steering wheel.
Ahh, OK sorry
I only have the standard steering wheel without any buttons, so i can't comment on this
dont worry about 4pin conn, just check that the mic you want to use in head unit support that ohm input, otherwise the sound quality wont be good, just make "test-fail" until you get good result. just connect to 2 wires mic the mic you want to test...
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
Is it just an input, that an ext. mic is connected?!
But why? Would the singals of the mic wont work without this input?
Or will this input maybe disable the internal mic?!
Then we wouldnt need to do the mod, by desolder or cut the internal mic on such units.
Thats just my thoughts, but i haven't done testing yet. Also i am not sure how i could figure it out exactly...
Pedaaa said:
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
[..]
Thats just my thoughts[...]
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Click to collapse
Well, on my unit (Erisin 3047A) the ONLY reason why the lower 2 pins are "jumpered" is purely a mechanical issue: By having 4 wires and tied them together using a cable tie the two upper (small) cables are fixed in place. So: No actual use, just for mechanical reasons.
Did you have a cable tie on your 4 wires? From your pictures I cannot see it, perhaps you removed it?
Well, I just used my external micro from the installation before, and it works great.
Kind regards,
hardcoded74
Hi,
Ok, there were no reasons for my concerns.
I unsoldered the interal mic.
And then i soldered a headphone jack to the two wires of the original ext. mic harness.
The didnt touch the lower jumper wire.
And now:
It works great with my parrot mic! No echo, and really good quality in general! I am very happy now.
I also now installed a time-delay-relay for my rear view cam. Now the cam keeps going for apprx. 8 seconds, if i change to forward gears. Thats a great improvement also, that i can recommend
Pic of the modified harness
please poiint out, what headphone you used for this and the cables (by color) you connected to. (red to white for example)
thanks
Hello,
I use a PR2627 Parrot Twin Mic.
I cutted the standard ext mic and soldered a 2,5mm female jack instead of it. The white lead from the original cable goes to the "left" connection on the jack.
So the tip of the male 2,5mm pin will contact the white cable.
The black lead goes to the ground connection of the jack.
Thats it.
So, i use this Stereo mic only as a mono mic.
But it works great.
But i have to say also the original ext. mic. isnt that bad, if you disconnect the internal one.
I want to try to use the original Audi microphone. The ohmmeter says the Audi is 7,9kOhm and the mic wich came with the Erisin is 0.9kOhm. Is it possible to get good results here? What do you guys think?
I ll have to search were the wire goes wich is not to easy in Audi A3 (at least for me)
Edit: Like I thought the quality of the original mic used with the new head unit is pretty poor. dumb and very quiet. Not sure now if i get another mic, use the erisin one or maybe try a mic amplifier..
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
HVB83 said:
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Mighty_X said:
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You couldnt find the answer in the entire thread devoted to this issue Yes; if an an external mic input is factory, it is in parallel with the internal mic. This is a rookie design mistake.
Is there a way to change sensitivity of the external mic input? Did not find an option in the factory settings..
I unsoldered the internal mic now too. After first tests I can say say that doing that had no effect on the input sound quality or anything at all. And i found out that the internal and external mic wich came with it arethe same piece of hardware. I still wonder if there is a way to increase intensity of the mic without going over hardware amplifier. Have a kinda newer Ersisin model I guess
Hi there guys.
I just bought a piece of Eonon GA8157 from Eonon. After the install, i got a few small issues (or big, depending on my mood ). Although the biggest of them is that my rear amplifier, that amplifies the subwoofer and the rear speakers isn't working, i have no ideea why, because i have alot of cables, and they were just plug and play.
My problem is the internet. I have two modems along with sim cards inserted. One is ZTE MF667 and the other is ZTE K3565-Z. None of them works. I don't know if there is a list of supported modems, but i thought that they were just plug and play.
From what i understand, i can however make these work if i root my device. I'm great at rooting mobile devices, but i don't want to ruin something to this head unit because it seems hard to modify something.
So, that is the question. Can i root this head unit, or install another firmware, or something to make this usb modems work?
If not, can you recomend me another modem? this unit is dead without internet connection, and i don't want to drain my phone battery by hotspotting it.
Operation System Android 7.1
CPU Processor RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad-Core
RAM SAMSUNG DDR3, 2GB
Memory 16 GB
Based on what i read, i guess that my device is PX3.
Thank you, in advance!
Alin.
I have a 2007 A4 with a MTCD_XRC head unit and I also have the rear amp, but I notice that the rear speakers are much lower then the fronts. I bought a line level converter and was messing with that and a ground loop isolator to get rid of the engine noise. But I have noticed after messing with it, even without ANY rca cables plugged in I still get audio out haha. I have looked at the wiring and I believe what needs to happen to make things totally correct is you need to rewire the back rca cables to go through the converter and completely bypass the rear amp as the head unit has enough juice to power all of the speakers. I also noticed after messing with things that I no longer needed the isolator on any of the speakers and I just moved the center to the rear a few click and it seems to level things out for the time being.
I've messed with a Huewei Cricket USB 4g dealio here and I was able to kind of get it working by using the PPP widget, but I was not getting connected, but the lights were changing so I am pretty sure its working, it just needs some fine tuning (I have project fi as my service provider)
I can try to help ya out if you need a hand, but I if you look further into some of the stuff I have mentioned I think you can figure it out.
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Fakken said:
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
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Click to collapse
The built in sub runs off of the rear amp as well. I disconnected and removed that a long time ago and I have a box in my trunk with 2 x 12 inch subs and a separate amp in the back left (It used to be mounted on the back side in the truck of a rear seat). And now with the android unit I ran a dedicated RCA from the back to the trunk for my external amp, I used to run it off of the line outs I tapped into on the rear stock amp.
So if you just wire to the rear speakers directly you should be good.
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Fakken said:
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly the same, but some good similar info just to dig through to get ideas, I do not agree with all of it but just good to mull over. I have so many pages saved of people talking about similar stuff when I was doing research on mine haha.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7158675-Head-Unit-Recommendation/page2
So I finally connected my new GM-specific Eonon-branded MTCE_WWW (GA9180A - made by Klyde, I believe) Android 8 unit in-car (was testing "on the bench") and oh my god - that little external warning chime speaker is absolutely horrible! I don't understand how they can spend so much time getting these things to work in car and then do such a piss-poor job on the little speaker that produces warning chimes and turn-signal sounds! Typically, these sounds come out of the cars speakers (with stock or higher-quality plug-and-play units).
Surely, there is some way to improve upon this?? Does anyone know if this little speaker is amplified or of it's just a simple speaker in a plastic case? I don't want to tear it apart just in case I decide to return the unit (I really don't want to, but this little speaker may be a deal-breaker). Not only does it sound absolutley horrible, but I'm also getting some sort of interference noice on it - even when the car isn't running. I think the interference noise is coming from the FM antenna adapter, the wifi antenna or CANBUS box - they are all in the same general area, so it's hard to tell which one is causing it.
Anyone have any info on these little speakers? I would love to use a higher-quality speaker if that would help (maybe even with a volume dial to control the volume of the chimes?). Only 2 wires going to the speaker, so I'm assuming it's just a regular un-amplified speaker. Will see if I can hook up another speaker to see what happens.
I did a few searches and didn't find much, but will keep searching - just figured I'd ask at the same time.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for sharing.
Yes, the sound from chime speaker is horrible especially for turn-signal. But I don't think it is speaker fault and indeed it is caused by CanBox code. I used some good quality speaker to test chime sound and I got the same horrible sound.
And for noise, in my case it is from WIFI activity I believe and I will live with it because it is hard to notice when music is on.
Had the same experience with a unit I just installed in my girlfriend's mini cooper which is a shame because mini/bmw has some pretty cool and iconic door chimes, notifications, and blinker noises.
I ordered an Axcess branded wire harness adapter box that I will wire up just the can-bus and power leads to to retain the sounds from its little speaker but I had another idea. The dash has plenty of available space inside, I may install the factory head unit single-din component to the can-bus wires and power and then a decent PA loudspeaker under the dash to the unit's driver door output to make up for the lack of those tones.
I installed my unit but I did not install this speaker at first
I think I do not need it
Quick fix
The speaker seemed distorted in my (px6, android, dasaita, Chevy Cruze 2011). After some testing I landed on a 8ohm resistor on the positive speaker cable between the speaker and the connector to the head-unit. The resistor wil consume the power and transfer it into head. And the speaker sounds way better now. For obvious reasons the volume is also lower now. And so far I like it.
Has anyone figured how how to change the door chime / blinker signal/ warning sounds ?
I have a head unit which has latest Witson mcu(mx 3.08) (with latest malaysk rom)(BluetoothWirelessChip is MD725). When dealer setup this headunit into my car they installed an external mic to top of the car. Problem is headunit always uses internal mic. Google voice search is working perfectly but with bluetooth calls my sound is bad.
I don't want to dissamble headunit. Is there anything I can try to make external mic work with software? (should i try different mcu's, firmwares, factory settings?, modifications). Because it's really hard to dissamble headunit from car..
traxformania said:
I have a head unit which has latest Witson mcu(mx 3.08) (with latest malaysk rom)(BluetoothWirelessChip is MD725). When dealer setup this headunit into my car they installed an external mic to top of the car. Problem is headunit always uses internal mic. Google voice search is working perfectly but with bluetooth calls my sound is bad.
I don't want to dissamble headunit. Is there anything I can try to make external mic work with software? (should i try different mcu's, firmwares, factory settings?, modifications). Because it's really hard to dissamble headunit from car..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem in a Dasaita PX-5 (MTC-D) unit. Just discovered it a few days ago. I saw in another post somebody claiming that the main problem is that plugging and external mic on the jack does not disables the internal mic (they're in a parallel configuration rather than serial with the mic female jack disconnecting the electrical path of the other mic when something is plugged in). Also, the post stated that the electrical path between the mic and the first chip (Bluetooth?) using the mic signal was long enough to act as an "antenna". If all this is right, I don't think it can be solved with SW settings.
I'm planning to disassemble the unit in a few days as anyways I need to fix other connections and will report back here what I find and if I manage to improve the mic quality on voice calls.
Kr
Max
maxiauer said:
I have the same problem in a Dasaita PX-5 (MTC-D) unit. Just discovered it a few days ago. I saw in another post somebody claiming that the main problem is that plugging and external mic on the jack does not disables the internal mic (they're in a parallel configuration rather than serial with the mic female jack disconnecting the electrical path of the other mic when something is plugged in). Also, the post stated that the electrical path between the mic and the first chip (Bluetooth?) using the mic signal was long enough to act as an "antenna". If all this is right, I don't think it can be solved with SW settings.
I'm planning to disassemble the unit in a few days as anyways I need to fix other connections and will report back here what I find and if I manage to improve the mic quality on voice calls.
Kr
Max
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just read that someone managed to make external mic working with just an older mcu update (2.60). I'll definitely try this.
traxformania said:
I just read that someone managed to make external mic working with just an older mcu update (2.60). I'll definitely try this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, after inspecting the unit, I can confirm that at least the Dasaita ones DO disconnect the internal mic when connecting an external one. But seems that audio quality on calls is a widespread issue. Will keep on checking, but things seem to point to the on-board Bluetooth Chip and some people claims "some" external USB Bluetooth dongles are compatible.
traxformania said:
I just read that someone managed to make external mic working with just an older mcu update (2.60). I'll definitely try this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried this? Does it work? Noticed my rear (external) mic isn't working too. MCU version 3.3
Any update on this one, I am connecting external MIC on dasaita max6 px6 and feeling that internal is still enabled ?
also what is the best location to put the external mic to ave best sound from driver's mouth ?
Hello, i have the same problem with my external microphone on my Dasaita PX6 MAX6.
First of all i should say it was very rough ride even to get my unit. They put ridiculous discount on aliexpress to hook up people to order, then they say "uh-oh sorry but overseas warehouse are empty, please cancel your order" so then you check again and see that there are still units available but the price now is x2 suddenly and surprisingly!
When i told them 'no, i will not cancel the order, i need the unit' - they started to slowly reply on my messages with murky and unclear answers going days and days until finally i put them to the wall and send it to my address in another country.
Their english speaking i think is very bad on purpose.
Second of all - now this problem with the external mic.
Ever since i installed this HU (around 2 months maybe) my friends complain they hear me very bad while talking on the phone. It was just the other week that i got the time to investigate and lo and behold even when the external mic is plugged in - the internal built-in one is still active. I tried 10 times unplugging and plugging, restarting etc but no - still the internal is active.
Knowing the aliexpress-Dasaita are very bad at communicating i contacted facebook-Dasaita. They told me to install the latest firmware - which i did, and nothing changes. Then they told me to contact Dasaita on aliexpress.
I contacted Dasaita aliexperss explaining what i did and the answer is basically: install latest firmware. If it does not work - use the built-in mic.
What the F!>.... Dasaita... Didn't you F-in understand that the internal mic is $h!7? And you sold me problematic unit? ...
https://imgur.com/C8jsu6r
Obviously i will avoid them in the future. They are tricky and deceitful, lie and hide on pretty much every step and run away from their problems, and just trow in some "solution" just because something should be answered... And until someone puts their balls to the wall they will do that...
Now, if anyone else from here can advice how to fix this if he had already fixed his one, please do it will be very much apppreciated.
Thank you
Previously discussed, disconnect internal mic hardware. Have a search for more - detailed info, also MTCB section where this issue was more common.
Agree with comments regarding how Chinese sellers operate on AliExpress, they all seem to be the same. Would be good if they were mandated to honour purchaser local consumer laws.
maxiauer said:
Well, after inspecting the unit, I can confirm that at least the Dasaita ones DO disconnect the internal mic when connecting an external one. But seems that audio quality on calls is a widespread issue. Will keep on checking, but things seem to point to the on-board Bluetooth Chip and some people claims "some" external USB Bluetooth dongles are compatible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I know this was posted a while ago but I have the PX6 10.2 Dasaita and my external mic won't work, even when it's plugged in it still uses the Internal mic and doesn't "register" there's an external mic attached it's garbage. do you know how I would be able to make the external mic work?
Hi, I'm having the same issue, what did you end up doing if I may ask?
psycho.b94 said:
Hi, I'm having the same issue, what did you end up doing if I may ask?
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Just as has been done since the wince units; disconnect the internal mic. Have a browse through.
marchnz said:
Just as has been done since the wince units; disconnect the internal mic. Have a browse through.
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Click to collapse
Just disconnecting internal mic and adding external mic through mic jack is enough to make external mic work?
After a read thru forums, you could post what you find and ask clarifying questions. Just a suggestion.
Is there a way how to exactly check internal/external mic quality? Or identify which one is in use? I have bought external mic for XTrons PX6 Android 11, MTCH. If I plug mic in, I see no difference. Sound quality is quite good anyway so I am not sure if install external mic I already payed for.
Troll_CZ said:
Is there a way how to exactly check internal/external mic quality? Or identify which one is in use? I have bought external mic for XTrons PX6 Android 11, MTCH. If I plug mic in, I see no difference. Sound quality is quite good anyway so I am not sure if install external mic I already payed for.
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What has been considered after a searching and reading forums, there is a lot of information covering this issue.
Hi everyone,
I bought a car and in this car there is an android auto unit.
This unit is a PX5 MTCE_CZ with Android 8.
When a call someone in bluetooth, my correspondent heard a hiss at each acceleration.
So I décide to update the unit.
Firstly, I upgrade the MCU to 2.88 to 3.41.
Secondly, I would like to pass on Android 10. For that I use SDDiskTool and CHS7_PX5_10.0_IMG(20200603).zip file.
The update seems to be ok.
But the hiss are still here and now I can't put the wifi on.
I choose the CHS7 randomly, why there is CHS, GS, HA, etc?? What is the difference between this files?
Thanks
I can't help you with the software question, but the noise in the call is probably a hardware problem. The unit seems to be picking up the electrical noise from the car (spark plug, injectors etc). It can happen thru the air (electromagnetic) of thru the wires (ground loop etc).
Noise source is not easy to find so you will have to tinker on it.
A good way to isolate the problem is powering the unit using a small 12v battery without any electrical contact with the car, but having the unit in the usual place. If you can plug a external independent speaker is even better.
If the noise goes away when you power if from a full independent battery, the noise problem can be on the main 12v or some ground loop.
Noise from power source sometimes can be solved using a big capacitor in parallel to the 12v.
Ground loop is not so obvious to figure out (search for ground loop on google).
If it still picking up noise using an external battery the problem is not in the power or ground loops, so you will need to check the overall shielding of the unit/microphone. You can start changing the cable routing and go from there...
Hi,
thanks for your answers.
I will check with your method and I give you my feedback.