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[Q] Directly Accessing the eMMC Module for Repair/Backup

UPDATE: November 8, 2014
* JTAG is disabled by QFuse.
* UART is available via the headphone jack for debugging/etc (Pinout to be posted later w/ examples)
* Searching for ways to access VSSQ and VSS (all other eMMC pins are accessible otherwise).
* New photos detailing locations of pins have been uploaded.
Current Located eMMC Pinouts:
CMD, DAT 0 to 7, VDDI, VDD, and VCCQ
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Notes:
* VCCQ is is attached to 1.8V going to GND and an AGND connection going through two capacitors; one is 4.7u while the other is 0.1u.
* VCC is attached to 2.95V GRND with the same 2 capacitors leading to AGND.
* All DAT pins have 47K resistors leading to 1.8V GND.
* The CMD pin has a 10K resistor leading to 1.8V GND.
CLK
I'm currently searching how to access VSS and VSSQ.

As far as I know jtag ports are disabled on most msm8974 soc phone in the qfuse table. That is why dont find any jtag solution for LG G2 after 13 months of its release or for any other msm8974 phones. Try to find the pins for the emmc to get direct access to it then we can mount it to the pc as an external hdd or flashsdrive.

So I have found the pins for the eMMC chip, and nicely enough they are located below the eMMC module itself. However, it is under the lid, so access requires you to desolder the lid from around it.
One thing I noticed with JTAG is that there is a *WATCH_DOG ENABLE* function that is activated by applying a 22K resistor to on of the leads (might be a different value, not at home so I don't have the PCB layout handy).
I also noticed that applying a resistor to one of the GPIO pins will trigger "FORCED_USB_BOOT", which may be handy for loading a bootloader from USB for eMMC partitioning via fastboot/etc. Haven't done enough research on that to give a definitive answer though.

Came across some more information.
Apparently, the Nexus 5 (both the D820 and D821), have four different boot configurations. Boot0, the one that is disabled altogether by default, can be activated via adding a 22K resistor to pad R3025 (attached to pin BF20 on the MSM8974). By adding this 22K resistor, we should be able to use Boot Config "0" and at the same time enable hardware Watchdog which makes me assume this is a debug mode for the Nexus 5 (and hopefully this might enable the JTAG pins). Will update as I come across more information.

Sorry, but I just want to butt in a let you guys know that there are users on here that still appreciate your dedication and curiosity to Android. This is why I love Android.
Carry on, definitely following this thread.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
[ DEVICE : N5 ] [ ROM : L DEV PREVIEW ] [ KERNEL : ELEMENTALX ]

Thanks for the support, dEris!
So after digging around some more, the four boot configurations and Watchdog enabling GPIO pins are standard on all of the MSM8974 SOCs. The info I posted apples to both the LG G2 and Nexus 5. The MSM8974 has these GPIO pins standard across, from what I can tell, all boards. If that is correct, backing up the eMMC might be far simpler than I originally thought.
Just keep in mind that I am making a lot of assumptions here. I do not have the hardware to test this myself with, and until I do this is all speculation.

Alright, I've edited some photos to show all of the eMMC's pins on the PCB. One thing I'd like to note that the eMMC CLK pin is located on the other side of the board by the MSM8974 instead of near the eMMC chip itself.
Here are the photos:
Using these diagrams we should be able to connect directly to the eMMC chip.

Derragon said:
Alright, I've edited some photos to show all of the eMMC's pins on the PCB. One thing I'd like to note that the eMMC CLK pin is located on the other side of the board by the MSM8974 instead of near the eMMC chip itself.
Here are the photos:
View attachment 3004913
View attachment 3004912
Using these diagrams we should be able to connect directly to the eMMC chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it is not required to find Vcc, Vss, VccQ and VssQ connections?

Sorry, I am pretty new to all of this, so thanks for the info on the other pins that I need to find. Will post a diagram of where VCC, VCCQ and GND are when I get back from work. Sorry for not posting those ones!

Derragon said:
Sorry, I am pretty new to all of this, so thanks for the info on the other pins that I need to find. Will post a diagram of where VCC, VCCQ and GND are when I get back from work. Sorry for not posting those ones!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nexus 5 refuses to power-on and I'm fairly interested in recovering all the data stored on the eMMC chip. This thread is helping out and it would be awesome to have the location of the various power pins. By the way, how did you manage to get all this information? Thanks anyway for the work you've done.

Hey is VSS and VSSQ the same thing as Ground?

Apple CarPlay Dongle - Autoplay - Not working correctly

Hello all!
I have bought the Apple Carplay Dongle with the app called AutoPlay. (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B076D2BP4S) The App and the dongle have the newest version.
The problem is that the head unit will start completely new or the connection get lost to the device. I tried several devices (iPhone 5S, iPhone 6S Plus, iPhone 7 Plus, iPhone X) - I also changed the lightning cable.
The usb from my device is working. Maybe I do something wrong?
I used a XTRONS, Android 8, Octa-Core, 4GB RAM, 32GB ROM device.
Some suggestions would be great.

Just curious, what did the reseller suggest?

marchnz said:
Just curious, what did the reseller suggest?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They told me that everything worked fine at their devices. I bought it at a german reseller. Is it possible to get in touch with the creator?
I attached a photo of my versions. Maybe you have some ideas?
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Have you tried using a powered USB hub? These Carplay dongles often need more than 500mA

Does anyone know the Autoplay Android app developer? We need some help for mapping one bmw button that does not work on Android 7.1

mnikitas said:
Does anyone know the Autoplay Android app developer? We need some help for mapping one bmw button that does not work on Android 7.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The original adaptor appears to be made by Carlinke. They have a website of the same name - you should start there (sorry, I can't post external links yet).

I had to buy a USB splitter to get my CarPlay dongle to work reliably. A single USB port just wasn’t enough.

Now in the cold time of the year I have a problem with the dongle. The dongle is not connect over the usb to the android device. The app says that I have to connect the box. Is this normal? - After some time of driving it is working.

Now it is the problem that I have to restart my device to get the box recognized by the app. Did someone have some suggestions?

yfain said:
They told me that everything worked fine at their devices. I bought it at a german reseller. Is it possible to get in touch with the creator?
I attached a photo of my versions. Maybe you have some ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looks like you have the carlinkit dongle like mine, you may need to update firmware on box. I got the latest box firmware from alliexpress selleer ( as per time of this post )
install instuctions
1) format a USB drive as FAT32
2) place img file in root of USB
3) plug dongle into andorid unit ( do not put in USB yet )
4) open app
5) once app asks you to connect phone, plug in USB drive into dongle.
6) you will get message on app saying box updating.
7 ) finally check setting menu in APP to see box and software up to date ( you will need to be connected to WIFI for this I belive)

Thanks for your post.
Is it right that the latest version of app and dongle is from the end of december 2018?

I have the same box on a px5 android 6 and it keeps restarting/disconnecting when I use a navigation app like google maps. I tried using 2 usb ports for extra charge, different phone, cable, etc.
nothing works

Yes, for me it is the same.
I think there is also no update available since 4 months. I do not know why.

usb splitter
mitchello said:
I had to buy a USB splitter to get my CarPlay dongle to work reliably. A single USB port just wasn’t enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey, so following the forum I found your post about the y splitter I purchased the splitter online my question now is what do I hook up on the female side and what exactly on the male sides?? also what if my android screen has only one USB output??

PX6 Cold Boot, FastBoot and USB issue

Hi there,
I just bought the following head unit: http://vanku.tech/index.php/products/aa0602b/26
Unfortunately fast boot is not working properly. The unit always does a cold boot. I figured out, when disconnecting all USB devices fast boot works perfectly. It is equal if I connect DAB+ module and Carlinkit adapter or only one USB stick. Is there a way to fix this? Perhaps with a MCU or Firmware update?

masterhacka said:
Hi there,
I just bought the following head unit: http://vanku.tech/index.php/products/aa0602b/26
Unfortunately fast boot is not working properly. The unit always does a cold boot. I figured out, when disconnecting all USB devices fast boot works perfectly. It is equal if I connect DAB+ module and Carlinkit adapter or only one USB stick. Is there a way to fix this? Perhaps with a MCU or Firmware update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the device an MTCD/E?

marchnz said:
Is the device an MTCD/E?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is MTCE

masterhacka said:
Hi there,
I just bought the following head unit: http://vanku.tech/index.php/products/aa0602b/26
Unfortunately fast boot is not working properly. The unit always does a cold boot. I figured out, when disconnecting all USB devices fast boot works perfectly. It is equal if I connect DAB+ module and Carlinkit adapter or only one USB stick. Is there a way to fix this? Perhaps with a MCU or Firmware update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a cold boot timer in the factory settings. You could try changing it to something other than auto that is probably the default. The password for the factory settings is usually 126

m33ts4k0z said:
There is a cold boot timer in the factory settings. You could try changing it to something other than auto that is probably the default. The password for the factory settings is usually 126
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure the timer is in the factory settings? I only found the ACC OFF timer in car settings. But changing it, didnt help.

masterhacka said:
Are you sure the timer is in the factory settings? I only found the ACC OFF timer in car settings. But changing it, didnt help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the ACC OFF is the setting. I have the same on my BMW 320D 2010. Fast boot only works about 5 minutes after the engine is turned off. I was told by the seller that this is normal behaviour for this car because, since it has start-stop function, its trying to save all juice it can since it only has one (big) battery in order power the start-stop function, instead of 2 batteries that newer cars have.

m33ts4k0z said:
Yes the ACC OFF is the setting. I have the same on my BMW 320D 2010. Fast boot only works about 5 minutes after the engine is turned off. I was told by the seller that this is normal behaviour for this car because, since it has start-stop function, its trying to save all juice it can since it only has one (big) battery in order power the start-stop function, instead of 2 batteries that newer cars have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has to be some sort of software issue. My old HU was a PX5 MTCE and fast boot worked fine.

I have a MTCE SYGAV branded PX6 which seems to always cold boot when I start the car. I think it may be that the battery voltage is dropping too low when the starter is cranking the engine. I have the "Display battery voltage" setting enabled (found in the Extra Settings scroll down in the options, if I remember correctly) so that it will show the battery voltage in the notification bar. The battery voltage in my car usually is around 11.5V give or take.
I've noticed that if the battery is below 12V upon starting the car, the head unit cold boots. The car stays parked more than driven so the battery is not being charged as much as it normally would be.
Interestingly, it will always fast boot if I just turn the key to the ACC position and not start the engine. Even if the car has been turned off for days it seems to always do the fast boot thing when the key hits ACC position. If this was a wiring issue then it would be an issue with the SYGAV harness as it is using the Toyota specific wiring harness which came with the radio (it was plug and play). I am more inclined to believe it is because of the voltage drop when the starter is turning the engine.

May or may not help, but the wiring harness that was included with my Dasaita PX6 had the yellow and red wires backwards (constant power and accessory power). This lead to it always cold booting. I have swapped them and now it's fixed.

Hi, friend! Looking for information, I have a problem with my PX6 (RK3399) 4 / 64GB
I come from a PX5 from 2018 and it had autosleep and it boot quickly but new PX6 it only has from 10 seconds to 1h to have fastboot.
how can i have autosleep in this new PX6
thank you ! and sorry my bad english
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abutarda2 said:
Hi, friend! Looking for information, I have a problem with my PX6 (RK3399) 4 / 64GB
I come from a PX5 from 2018 and it had autosleep and it boot quickly but new PX6 it only has from 10 seconds to 1h to have fastboot.
how can i have autosleep in this new PX6
thank you ! and sorry my bad english View attachment 5478373
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it an MTCD unit.

marchnz said:
Is it an MTCD unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MTCH unit

masterhacka said:
Hi there,
I just bought the following head unit: http://vanku.tech/index.php/products/aa0602b/26
Unfortunately fast boot is not working properly. The unit always does a cold boot. I figured out, when disconnecting all USB devices fast boot works perfectly. It is equal if I connect DAB+ module and Carlinkit adapter or only one USB stick. Is there a way to fix this? Perhaps with a MCU or Firmware update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you solve it? I have same problem.

Question Ford C-Max Android Unit - My Feedback and help request

Hi everyone,
so i've bought a new android unit for my car. I have been checking the other posts in this forum but they are kind of "pro level" so i felt the need to clarify some doubts. I know you guys are experts, if you can help be i would be thankful. I'll also provide some feedback that maybe can help people who are considering buying it.
The unit i've bought is this one:
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Link for it: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003003858975.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4ds0To05
I have a Ford Grand C-Max manufactured 11/2015 (the restyled one), and i thought this radio would be a good fit (i've had other android units in my past cars). I bought the 6G+128GB version (TS6 version), with Android 11. The brand is "Navifly", however i guess this is just another brand variation.
1) Feedback​
Positive​- Fast and fluid Android experience - no lag to complain about.
- Sound Quality - a great improvement over the Ford Sync 2 original radio - better definition, better bass, supports higher volumes without distortion
- Radio has RDS - it actually shows the station name (we don't have DAB in Portugal, it is still FM) and the tuning quality is good
- GPS is ok. Not awesome, but usable. Supposedly, it also gets some Glonass satellites, but as you know Glonass constellation is sparser, so it usually only gets GPS triangulation. I use Waze, sometimes it takes a bit to understand where it is.
Negative​- Quality of design and build of the plastic fairings: the plastic fairings are much lower quality relatively to the Ford ones. They don't precisely fit the car dashboard, by a couple of milimiters. I have it provisionally installed, but i'll have to shave some plastic when i get it definitely installed. Additionaly, the chines fairings don't have the metal clips/retainers that the original plastics have to get it securely in place. I've has to order some to get this sorted out...
- The CANBUS communication:
-> i am not getting any steering wheel communication at all (no volume control, no call pick up. This is the worst part for me
-> the information of the parking sensors is erratic. My car has 6 sensors at the front and 6 at the back (360º coverage) and there is quite an error on the info shown in this android unit, so i am not not trusting it a lot. Besides that, it is slow to react (couple of seconds), and the car should be drawn vertically (you brain needs to rotate the view 90º to get it right).
-> No Park Assist (automated parking) information is shown at the unit, so the Park assist is not currently working
-> I can get reversal signal, climate info (when i change it), and open door information.
- The screen. For its size, its low resolution, not bright enough, and it is very reflective. Not very happy with it.
​2) Help Request​I need help to sort the CANBUS limitations. This is the canbus box they sent me:
I guess this box is not the most adequate for my C-Max. I can't read chinese characters so i really don't know what it says at all. I've tried to get into the canbus box definitions in the settings menu and have tried selecting other canbus choices with no avail: i couldn't get steering wheel info at all. So i've went a bit overkill and ordered two canbus boxes to see if a different canbus box solve my issues. I've ordered these two:
- Another Hiworld box (i guess this is a newer version than the one i have, so i hope they have sorted out the issues) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002718903038.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4dac8EZc
- An XP one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002327630203.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4dac8EZc
So i now have three questions for you guys:
1) Is this a FYT unit? Or a Mekede?
2) Will any of the new boxes sort out my canbus miscommunication?
3) Is there any place where i can get a firmware update? Or canbus firmware update? This is what the Android System settings show about my unit:
Thank you guys in advance for your help!!

I have tried other two canbus boxes from Hiworld and XP, with no avail. Still no steering wheel controls. Any suggestions?

JMourinho said:
I have tried other two canbus boxes from Hiworld and XP, with no avail. Still no steering wheel controls. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does reseller suggest when contacted for support.

JMourinho said:
So i now have three questions for you guys:
1) Is this a FYT unit? Or a Mekede?
2) Will any of the new boxes sort out my canbus miscommunication?
3) Is there any place where i can get a firmware update? Or canbus firmware update? This is what the Android System settings show about my unit:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
1) Mekede = FYT, not every FYT is a Mekede. But your unit is a Topways built unit sold by reseller TopNavi, so neither a Mekede nor a FYT nor a NaviFly. You are in the wrong sub-forum. Please ask in the general Android Head Units subforum
2) Ask your reseller TopNavi.
3) Please ask your TopNavi reseller or in the general Android Head Units subforum. There your will find the TSx series with firmwares and other information.
And by the way: It is a fake Android 11. It is still Android 10 (Api/SDK 29) as displayed on the web page. One can write a script that will set the "Android level" to any version you like: Android 10, 11, 31, 451, 10961, 4, ..
But it is a nice looking unit compared with the standard Ford units.
EDIT: This seems to be a FYT after all. Sorry for the confusion.
In my signature you find on the 3rd line the "HWGetInfo.apk". Please run it and share the created zip file.

Replace PX5 w/PX6 -> different number of pins

Hello All
TlDr; Has anybody replaced a PX5 (Rev 4, the ones with "fewer pins") with a PX6 (4 more pins) on their units? Which "Pins" you left unconnected, the 4 on the left or the 4 on the right? (@marchnz have you done this by chance?)
My old PX5 unit (Flash memory on core board) died and I am in the process of looking for a new unit. But I was thinking on "resurrecting" the old one for my dad's car or some other project, and got a used PX6 module. Problem is, seems my unit was older than what I thought, as the number of pins on the PX5-Rev 4 is lower than the PX6 (and "newer" PX5)
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I saw another post claiming that those modules are compatible anyway, so I checked the schematics of a similar unit and found that 5v VCC is provided in the pins 1 & 2 (the ones on the left, looking at the module from the top) while most of the last pins (7x) are either ground or WiFi related (and my MTC-D has an external WiFi/BT module)
But when trying to mount it, the screws work PERFECTLY if I leave the first 4 pins unconnected. And looking for a PX5 module in eBay I found one that seems to be the "transitional revision" that has 4 more pins but are left out of the connector...and those are on the left !!!
I am at lost at what to do here. Does anybody has the pinout / schematics of the core boards itself? (either PX5 or PX6). Has anybody faced this isue before?
Thanks !!!
Max

I saw another post claiming that those modules are compatible anyway, so I checked the schematics of a similar unit and found that 5v VCC is provided in the pins 1 & 2 (the ones on the left, looking at the module from the top) while most of the last pins (7x) are either ground or WiFi related (and my MTC-D has an external WiFi/BT module)
Regards: Pubg Name Generator

Well, I decided to take the risk, and indeed the schematics that are available are at least "confusing" (if not plainly wrong) as they show up a connector numbered with 76 pins (as if it were a real 76 pin connector) but the number of physical pins in the diagram is only 72 (you won't realize that if you do not really pay attention). So, old MCUs and old PX5 boards have VCC on pins 1 & 2 (left, looking at the top)
NEWER (76-pins based MCUs & PX5/PX6) have VCC on pins 5 & 6... meaning the FIRST 4 pins are either unused (or maybe used for features only available on MTC-E MCUs and PX6). So, the photo above is correct, when you are using a 76 pin PX5/6 on a 72-PIN MCU the first 4 pins are lef unconnected/floating and VCC is actually Pin 5 of the longer board.
I tested it and everything works (audio, video, wifi, touchscreen...)
Hope this helps somebody in the future

maxiauer said:
Well, I decided to take the risk, and indeed the schematics that are available are at least "confusing" (if not plainly wrong) as they show up a connector numbered with 76 pins (as if it were a real 76 pin connector) but the number of physical pins in the diagram is only 72 (you won't realize that if you do not really pay attention). So, old MCUs and old PX5 boards have VCC on pins 1 & 2 (left, looking at the top)
NEWER (76-pins based MCUs & PX5/PX6) have VCC on pins 5 & 6... meaning the FIRST 4 pins are either unused (or maybe used for features only available on MTC-E MCUs and PX6). So, the photo above is correct, when you are using a 76 pin PX5/6 on a 72-PIN MCU the first 4 pins are lef unconnected/floating and VCC is actually Pin 5 of the longer board.
I tested it and everything works (audio, video, wifi, touchscreen...)
Hope this helps somebody in the future
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These four pins are DSP (digital signal processor allowing advanced sound adjustment and enhancement). Nothing happens if they are not involved. You did a good job. The most common problem when replacing the board is non-functioning Bluetooth, the BT module must be replaced, but that is not your problem.
Just a little info. If you have a PX6 board. HCT-RK3399-REV12 with android 11, so they started putting the U-blox MAX-M10S (W10050-KB) gps chip on it, it doesn't show any satellites on android 10, just to clarify, if you wanted to downgrade to, android 10, for example on Hal9k mod 5.