Hi
While making a video of close objects Whenever the system shifts to zoom lens the saturation increases and colors become over saturated.
I make videos of gems and stones. and for that purpose i bought this camera.
Especially the blue stones become too blue when i zoom in and zoom lens turns on.
Is there a way where we can select individual lens manually so that the zoom lens doesn't turn on unless I want it.
Try with turned of AI. If nothing changes after that I don't know what can you do.
When the device switching between camera modules maybe is normal to have problems with saturation. All three camera modules have different apertures and they receive a different amount of light.
The only solution that I found is by using the pro mode and setting the white balance manually when the zoom lens turns on. By doing that the camera keeps the selected saturation even when the lens gets changed.
This is what I think. Need to confirm it with different color items.
You guyz check it aswell.
I hope mate 40 doest have the same problem. Quite disappointing bug considering the price of the phone and camera quality.
Related
I find the when I shoot in Superior Auto in low-light, many times there appear a violet / bluish haze on the left side (no flash fired). I find that switching to Night Portrait or Night Mode is too much of a hassle, ESPECIALLY when the conditions constantly change like going to a different place that's brightly lit or going inside a restaurant. Also, these modes tend to have motion blur.
Now I'm thinking of Manual Mode but basically got the same results as Superior Auto (probably. I'm just not good at tinkering with the settings).
Any tips?
Thanks!
bloodfire1004 said:
I find the when I shoot in Superior Auto in low-light, many times there appear a violet / bluish haze on the left side (no flash fired). I find that switching to Night Portrait or Night Mode is too much of a hassle, ESPECIALLY when the conditions constantly change like going to a different place that's brightly lit or going inside a restaurant. Also, these modes tend to have motion blur.
Now I'm thinking of Manual Mode but basically got the same results as Superior Auto (probably. I'm just not good at tinkering with the settings).
Any tips?
Thanks!
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In night conditions only use switching ISO settings,exposure and white balance.
For examle,when it has blueish scene turn the white change white balance to one in the midle if the list,and you will got more reallity look of scene you photographing.Also ISO settings dont go over 800 and you can sometimes change exposure ti minus to get a less noise.Try with those settings and you can get ok images.
Sent via Xperia Z2
And use 8mp
Sent from my E6653 using XDA-Developers mobile app
As we have received Nokia 8 PRO Cam update globally, some of us not happy with the final application.
There are lots of bug with this new pro app and it is so clear that it had been rushed out to silence us.
Firstly, in landscape mode in order to launch Nokia 8 PRO features you have to go trough settings, swipe up does not work which is ridiculous and it shows they have released the PRO app without real user feedback, only dump software engineers can not notice such bugs.
Secondly, in default settings shutter control is on which makes a lot of noise in dark situations, try to turn it off and you will see much much better result with less noise. It is not a miracle, does not reach the level gcam has achieved but at least , with PRO cam we see less noise.
Considering it's price, I do not except a miracle from Nokia 8, but this little details kills Nokia legacy. I believe, they should listen feedback from users first before they launch any update.
..please? You have no clue how cameras work? You can't beat the physics. It's all about the amount of light being captured by the sensor. Dark situations will always be hard for small cameras, and vice versa crap cameras, can perform well in bright situations if the lens is sharp.
With a faster shutter will have few options to make to even out the exposure:
Open up the lens aperture more. (These small lenses are usually fully open always if not used in bright sunlight, so there is nothing to gain).
Raise the ISO. This is basically amplifying the sensor data, resulting in a brighter image but with increased noise and loss of details. This is what you are complaing about.
Revert back to a lower the shutter speed so more light can be collected. The disadvantage is that you need to hold you camera more still and moving objects will still not be frozen.
Give up and lower the exposure resulting in a darker image. (Exposure compensation)
A fift option is also cheating, adding post process noise reduction, think a bit like anti-aliasing resulting in even more detail loss. Personally I'll take a slightly noisy image any day in favor of a software drawn oil painting without details.
I can't comment the bug, I haven't hit it. I'd rather the Camera app to remember the settings from last session and also some user programmable "presets" would be nice. Or a full Live Bokeh from a short-cut would also work as an work-around just to make an example.
Usually your subject is gone before your camera settings are in place.
Anyway, t best solution for you would be to get a larger sensor and a larger lens so more light can be collected. Seriously, for example a Sony RX1R II would easily beat any cell phone camera out there in lower light.
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
1st Edit: Condition: you must use tap to focus. (If you just focus with the shutter software button, the hardware button or object tracking, scene detection won't disengage unless you actually change brightness or tint.)
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
1st Edit: When touch capture is ON, tapping on screen sometimes fails to focus because the picture is taken before the camera has time to focus, especially in low light. In this case you have to take the picture twice or use the timer so it has time to focus. Well this pretty much makes this "tip" useless !
2nd Edit: Sometimes the camera fails to focus if there no contrast on the clicked zone, but touch capture is not the cause. Try to tap on a zone with more contrast to improve focus success.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve HDR, multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus. 1st Edit: when it actually manages to focus before picture is taken, basically only in good light it seems.).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon, 1st Edit: then tap to focus (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
chgr said:
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
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Quite useful tips, thanks! Especially considering that camera quality appeared to be below my expectations (coming from Pixel devices, Huawei Mate 20 Pro, P30, Galaxy Note 10+). There are few complains about X5 camera system with which I can't do anything about. Firstly, quite slow camera app start up time and its overall performance compared to other devices. Secondly, focusing system is clearly inferior too. Main camera struggles to focus on objects a way too often in situations where others do it easily. Thirdly, HDR mode nearly useless (absolutely useless compared to, say, Pixel 2). Also camera has difficulties to make decent pictures in conditions different from ideal - blown out skies, crushed dark areas, overexposure problems are not something rare here. Finally, low light performance is a way below the competition. Making good pictures in low light from handheld phone is nearly impossible. Blurry mess or aqua painting effect is guaranteed. I hope that Sony will address these issues in future updates.
Hello, i'm happy with everything on the phone, except for the camera, I have two main issues:
On HDR auto, when it enables HDR some times the colours are just off, too oversaturated or ghosting issues regarding colours. I more or less fix this using the GCam.
On some interior scenarios with certain types of lights, the image captured is just yellowish, but changing cameras or moving a little bit the colour returns to a normal white... This is not happening on a Oneplus Nord, picture is just much better. Do you know if this is a normal thing to be happening?
I'm gonna purchase this phone but need to know if you can zoom during video recording?
At basic 4K30 setting does it switch cameras/lenses when you use the zoom slider?
Short answer is: nope.
At 4K30, with the standard camera app, you can select one of three lenses: ultra wide (0.5x), standard (1x) or the zoom lens (5x). With each your then have the option to digitally zoom in during filming, with the ultra wide then ranging from 0.5 to 2x, with the standard going from 1x to 6x and with the zoom lens you start at 5x and can zoom in to 15x zoom max. A slider will be on screen to help you with that. It's all digital zoom, so don't expect picture quality to remain the same.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn M2007J1SC met Tapatalk
This is bummer... Is it down to Xiaomi or it's the first phone with multiple cameras that can't switch on the fly during video recording ?!
OK that person is wrong. I zoom while recording all the time... I usually either use 720p to minimize file size or 4k60 for max quality. Maybe he's using the wrong mode.
My personal experience is exactly what Appelsap described. No way for me to switch cameras on the fly while recording video.
What about other apps like FIlmic PRO - do you have access to the other cameras?
In Filmic Pro I could only find the switch from back to front. Is there another way to access the other cameras?
So you can zoom, but only digitally using the same lens. You can't switch lenses to zoom even more during filming. I tested the 4K30 as was asked, didn't try other formats (720p/HD/8K) but expect the same result even then. Main issue would be that switching lenses would be noticable in the resulting film. The lenses are in a slightly different position on the phone - they have to be next to each other rather than on top of each other , so whilst zooming in or out you'd see the camera shift suddenly to a slightly different position. I doubt other multi-lens phones can switch camera's during filming, you'd notice it then too - but do correct me when I'm wrong and tell me how the software then solves the suddenly shifted perspective (or not).
Every other multicamera phone (as far as I know) is using different cameras (lenses) while video recording. My most current phone is Find X2 Pro and it is using all of the cameras, however they are not enabled in Filmic Pro, in comparison OnePlus 8 PRO is enabled and all cameras can be used in Filmic Pro but this is different topic.
So basically this is first high end camera centric phone that is unusable in video recording, what a shame... I will cancel my purchase then.....
My Find X2 Pro is the best package overall but I'm missing the 2x telephoto camera as there is quite a gap between the 25mm main camera and 130mm 5x periscope one.
Appelsap said:
So you can zoom, but only digitally using the same lens. You can't switch lenses to zoom even more during filming. I tested the 4K30 as was asked, didn't try other formats (720p/HD/8K) but expect the same result even then. Main issue would be that switching lenses would be noticable in the resulting film. The lenses are in a slightly different position on the phone - they have to be next to each other rather than on top of each other , so whilst zooming in or out you'd see the camera shift suddenly to a slightly different position. I doubt other multi-lens phones can switch camera's during filming, you'd notice it then too - but do correct me when I'm wrong and tell me how the software then solves the suddenly shifted perspective (or not).
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It's not only the perspective. Different cameras have different aperture, meaning different exposure. So if you pay attention, you will notice that - it gets darker when the phone switches to 5x camera. Don't know what cameras and aperture have the other phones but I'm extremely interested in an example video zooming from UW all the way to periscope and producing usable picture quality in 4k.
Just wanted to let you know that on latest EU weekly, the switches cameras on fly during video recording 1800p.
I also confirm that the video produced is not the best quality as expected - changing the camera changes the exposure and focus too.
For 4k it doesn't switch cameras.
neverthemore said:
Just wanted to let you know that on latest EU weekly, the switches cameras on fly during video recording 1800p.
I also confirm that the video produced is not the best quality as expected - changing the camera changes the exposure and focus too.
For 4k it doesn't switch cameras.
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Just tried it, and you are so right. At 1080p it does switch lenses during zooming (in/out), which is very noticable in the result, so why you'd want that is beyond me really. But it is possible. I'd like to see another phone do this without changes to exposure and focus, that seems very unlikely to me.