I recently upgraded from the original Pixel XL to Pixel 4A. Ever since receiving the phone, I've been experiencing a strange battery drain issue that did not occur on the original Pixel XL. It is only experienced overnight when the phone is not in use.
I have an automated routine setup for overnight charging that will turn on my wall socket (to charge the phone) when the battery is at 15% and turn it off at 80%. If plugged in in-between those values, it will not manipulate the wall socket until it reaches one of the thresholds. I used this setup for the Pixel XL which greatly extended the battery life & usage of the phone.
In this charging scheme, the phone charges as expected with the socket on. Once the phone triggers the wall socket to be off, it stops charging. Hours later after waking I have noticed the battery is lingering around 40-50%, quite a big drop from 80%. Looking at Accubattery, the phone did not enter deep sleep mode at all. BBS also confirms this and indicates 'usbpd0' at 100% as a wakelock.
See attached for BBS output from an overnight session. The phone was at 76% & plugged in (socket was off, so it wasn't charging but had the usb-c connected). Battery dropped to 33% after over 6h. This is repeatable even after rebooting and even wiping & restoring the phone. I have not tested this in safe mode, nor a fresh wipe without restoring.
Some interesting information on my trials :
- USB-A to USB-C from Cable Matters (2017) caused battery drain (original listing updated, not sure what the specs are/were, pretty sure it was on the 'approved' Benson Leung list)
- USB-A to USB-C from a Samsung tablet caused battery drain
- USB-A to USB-C from Aukey (2019) caused battery drain (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CY1SSQV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- USB-C to USB-C from Google (Pixel XL) did not cause battery drain
- USB-C to USB-C from Google (Pixel 4a) did not cause battery drain
Note: In all trials, the USB cable is connected to the P4a but not charging the device (either the other end is connected to a power adapter [with socket off], or not connected to a power adapter at all)
Does this have something to do with the P4a & USB PD 2.0 compared to USB-A to C cables? A software bug? Something else?
nakk said:
I recently upgraded from the original Pixel XL to Pixel 4A. Ever since receiving the phone, I've been experiencing a strange battery drain issue that did not occur on the original Pixel XL. It is only experienced overnight when the phone is not in use.
I have an automated routine setup for overnight charging that will turn on my wall socket (to charge the phone) when the battery is at 15% and turn it off at 80%. If plugged in in-between those values, it will not manipulate the wall socket until it reaches one of the thresholds. I used this setup for the Pixel XL which greatly extended the battery life & usage of the phone.
In this charging scheme, the phone charges as expected with the socket on. Once the phone triggers the wall socket to be off, it stops charging. Hours later after waking I have noticed the battery is lingering around 40-50%, quite a big drop from 80%. Looking at Accubattery, the phone did not enter deep sleep mode at all. BBS also confirms this and indicates 'usbpd0' at 100% as a wakelock.
See attached for BBS output from an overnight session. The phone was at 76% & plugged in (socket was off, so it wasn't charging but had the usb-c connected). Battery dropped to 33% after over 6h. This is repeatable even after rebooting and even wiping & restoring the phone. I have not tested this in safe mode, nor a fresh wipe without restoring.
Some interesting information on my trials :
- USB-A to USB-C from Cable Matters (2017) caused battery drain (original listing updated, not sure what the specs are/were, pretty sure it was on the 'approved' Benson Leung list)
- USB-A to USB-C from a Samsung tablet caused battery drain
- USB-A to USB-C from Aukey (2019) caused battery drain (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CY1SSQV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- USB-C to USB-C from Google (Pixel XL) did not cause battery drain
- USB-C to USB-C from Google (Pixel 4a) did not cause battery drain
Note: In all trials, the USB cable is connected to the P4a but not charging the device (either the other end is connected to a power adapter [with socket off], or not connected to a power adapter at all)
Does this have something to do with the P4a & USB PD 2.0 compared to USB-A to C cables? A software bug? Something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Native USB-C is more intelligent (for lack of better term) than legacy variants, especially with fast charge protocols. Seems likely some type of current/voltage auto-negotiation is looking for a response when your plug switches off and throws a wakelock while waiting. The solution seems obvious: use a high quality USB-C cable and be done with it.
DB126 said:
Native USB-C is more intelligent (for lack of better term) than legacy variants, especially with fast charge protocols. Seems likely some type of current/voltage auto-negotiation is looking for a response when your plug switches off and throws a wakelock while waiting. The solution seems obvious: use a high quality USB-C cable and be done with it.
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Click to collapse
Agreed. I've swapped out the older cable in my setup above for the P4a cable - problem solved. If anyone else comes across this issue, perhaps they can find the information useful.
USB-C has 24 pins, and probally it trigers something which causes "back" current, that means that your battery charges charger or uses power to detect smth on USB port. Use good quality cables or do reasearch on USB C.
What socket do you use? I also want to automate charging.
SkylineDiT said:
USB-C has 24 pins, and probally it trigers something which causes "back" current, that means that your battery charges charger or uses power to detect smth on USB port. Use good quality cables or do reasearch on USB C.
What socket do you use? I also want to automate charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was gifted Gosund smart sockets (https://www.amazon.com/Gosund-Compatible-Required-appliances-Certified/dp/B079MFTYMV/). The process is as follows:
- Create Gosund account for plugs
- Link IFTTT with 'Smart Life' (smart life is the Gosund account/plugs)
- In IFTTT, create an event with WebHooks and Smart Life - e.g., if 'chargeron' then turn on Charger Socket
- Using Tasker, create a trigger for the desired battery % to execute an http post request to trigger the IFTTT task (set the URL to the webhooks address by 'https://maker.ifttt.com/trigger/{event}/with/key/{uniquekey}', where event is the name you set in the previous step and uniquekey is the unique string under webhooks settings)
It was annoying to setup at first, but works like a charm! There is probably a simpler way to do this.
Odd my usb-c cable I use on my OP 5T doesn't charge my 4a. Shure wish they supplied longer cables!
nakk said:
...I have an automated routine setup for overnight charging that will turn on my wall socket (to charge the phone) when the battery is at 15% and turn it off at 80%. If plugged in in-between those values, it will not manipulate the wall socket until it reaches one of the thresholds. I used this setup for the Pixel XL which greatly extended the battery life & usage of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Restricted charging on mobile devices is a bit misguided as phones rarely stay at 100% for prolonged periods as you might see on a docked laptop. Apple got it right on recent iOS builds which initiate charging an hour or two before your normal wake time. Modern battery packs are also less susceptible (albeit not immune) to premature wear due to high charge levels.
I noticed the same behaviour as the OP and eventually found this thread.
Are you using stock kernel? I'm on Android 10 (version qd4a.200805.003) with this kernel from Nikamura (https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/twrp-3-4-0-0-for-sunfish-testing.4179101/) and rooted with Magisk.
Thanks
Related
it says- output :5v 500mah
the original says-output:5v 1a(amper i guess)
will this screw up the battery?
chances are no, considering it is half what htc recommends you charge it with, either it will charge it very slowly (half the current of the original) or the voltage wont provide enough to kick the phone into charging mode and nothing will happen (i.e. the charger "wont work")
Thanks for the help
It'll work, but as panyan said, it'll recharge much more inefficiently than with a 1 amp charger.
Actually... It will charge the phone exactly as charging via USB, as USB is limited to 0.5A.
Yep, it will charge your phone just fine @ USB charging speed, I have a similar charger.
And some of you forgot to mention that the phone will struggle when for example you will play games or use gps. Charge will be insufficient and instead charging it will slowly discharge while using it.
Sent from my Desire HD uing XDA App
Well yes and no, in normal usage it will charge phone, but when you use your phone the way that you would drain the batty in two hours, then it will discharge.
Hey... Yeah if the charger is a car charger then it may not charge fast enough if using GPS software which can drain the battery fast. 1Amp reccomended for faster charging... other than that should charge fine but just slow like USB charging (which has a max of 500mA).
One question guys... I bought a car charger from ebay listed as for HTC phones. It looks like a cheap knock off product with a glowing blue HTC logo when used in the car. The device is rated at 2Amps. Now from what little I know about electronics I've been told that AC/DC Plug packs with more Amps are ok and the device just only uses what it needs. I'm not however familiar whith battery charing when you have a higher rated Amps charger... Would the battery on the phone just be greedy and "ask" for the full 2Amps? Would this then put strain or be dangerous by charging the phone too quickly?
Secondly while we are on the topic of electronics... I'm trying out a super cheap ebay battery supposedly rated at 1600mAH (I know these rating are usually fake). I've noticed the HTC battery is around 4.17V when fully charged. This battery charged up to 4.2V fully charged... Is that dangerous for the device?
2 amp is better, correct me if i am wrong. So the output is 5V and 2A, is that mean the power is 10W every hour ?
2 A charging current (if the phone takes in that much) will damage the battery in a long term use.
It is incredibly unlikely that the phone will discharge the battery faster than it charges unless you're doing something very wrong, e.g. Running a console emulator while downloading a large file over HSDPA with WiFi enabled (but not connected) and using GPS navigation with screen brightness at maximum!
Screen and background services take approx 150mAh, and I doubt radio will take much more than that combined. That puts drain 200mAh less than USB charging, 700mAh less than direct charging.
FYI: There's a spec for USB charging of mobile phones from supported USB ports which can pull up to 1500mA.
DeathJester said:
It is incredibly unlikely that the phone will discharge the battery faster than it charges unless you're doing something very wrong, e.g. Running a console emulator while downloading a large file over HSDPA with WiFi enabled (but not connected) and using GPS navigation with screen brightness at maximum!
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Click to collapse
Hmm... not sure for Desire HD I haven't tested GPS with SatNav software using current widget... I do know that I'm pulling well over 200mA just with basic use at home with Wi-Fi on and GPS & Bluetooth off and I kill all backround apps. I do know that I've been in the car and seen TomTom app on my friend's jailbroken iPhone 3G (or 3Gs) and with the GPS on and not doing anything intensive... we were actually travelling down a long straight highway, the phone was chewing more battery than the car charger could charge, so he switched off GPS.
Ah also guys no need to worry about the 2Amp charger... It sh*t itself on the 3rd car use and no longer works at all. Junk! I also noticed on the 2nd car trip that opening Android SpareParts the charge is displayed as USB Charging not AC Charging so yeah I believe that the car charger was only a standard USB (max 500mA) power output and not 1Amp let alone 2Amps. Annoying how false advertising or labelling is part and parcel with cheap Chinese products.I was meaning to test the charger's output with Current Widget (which is what I'll do for my next car charger) but the charger crapped out and was useless before I got a chance.
One thing I did notice from looking at a log using Current Widget while charging my phone on the A/C charger in standby, the charge tapers off the power output the more the battery is charged. To get an accurate idea of if the car charger is going to be outputting 1Amp I'd be sure the phone battery is down to 40% (or in the 40s) then with all other stuff switched off I'd run a log on Current Widget and turn the screen off for a few minutes. You should have a reading of around +700 to +800mA if the car charger is rated at 1Amp.
Be wary of the cheap Asian knock of car chargers with the coil spring cord and the HTC logo that lights up blue.... Not worth the 3 or 4 bucks they sell on ebay for.
There's a spec for USB charging of mobile phones from supported USB ports which can pull up to 1500mA.
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Click to collapse
There's commonly those double USB cables for laptop hard drives so yeah I can see that if the USB ports are actually giving you the full rated maximum of 500mA you can get 1Amp output with this kind of cable but 1500mA?!? The only way I'd see possible for this is either you have a tripple USB cable connected to 3USB ports that are all outputting the full 500mA (and that's if a triple cable even exists or lets say you solder another one onto a double cable) or you have a USB AC/DC charger or some other USB port/hub you've rigged up which provides more than the USB standards of max 500mA per port. How else is this possible?!? Has the max power output of 500mA changed since USB 2.0 standards?
yeah there are usb 2.0 ports with more than 500mA power supply.
some companys give some extra juice to their (or often only one) usb ports.
for example: i've got an Dell Studio XPS 16 Notebook here. it has 3 usb ports, 2 with normal 500mA supply and one with 1A (for charging your phone, etc).
DN41
Is any difference charging my DHD form PC's USB then charging from original charger ?
I may be wrong, but I think wall charger provides more power than USB or car dock
Sent from my Desire HD using xda app-developers app
I've read many times that using USB, you battery might last longer than using the wall charger. I've never noticed this...
USB seems a bit slower than the wall charger but other than that seems the same.
Install Battery Monitor Widget, and you will see how much current each option gives at different levels of charge.
To be exact, the device DRAWS current, it's not a question of the highest output being the best. If the device can't receive more juice, the additional output cannot be used.
When the battery is nearly empty you will see the biggest current draw - as the charge gets closer to 100%, the amount the device draws drops, until it reaches 0mAh on full charge.
My OEM wall charger provides up to 1000mAh, and the PC USB provides 500mAh, you will initially charge the device faster with the wall charger, until the current drawn by the device drops beneath 500mAh - after which point they will charge equally fast.
That, in the case of my phone (with a Mugen 1500mAh battery) happens around the 60% charge mark. So if the charger outputs are as mentioned above, you wouldn't see any difference in the rate of charging after 60%
HTC wall charger can output 1A with data pin short-circuit. PC USB can output 500~600ma or 1A on some laptop but no data pin short-circuit.
Fast charge mode is 900mA. It is on when data-pin short-circuit is detected OR on a fast-charge enabled ROM (or say, kernel).
Otherwise, it only pull 500ma.
Use your battery in your way. Charge it when you like. DHD can replace battery.
Stating the obvious BUT, of course, you can access your phones storage when connected to PC via USB for charging!
---------- Post added at 10:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 AM ----------
Also, be careful of using unpowered USB hubs - there may not be sufficient power on the port to charge effectively.
I think charger will have more power. :cyclops:
A wallcharger will always push more amps to the phone.
Don't get confused by people telling you, that wallcharging will damage your battery! That's just not true.
Every phone has an inbuild unit, that controls the amps going to the battery.
Charger outputs more power and therefore it charges faster. Some kernels have the option called "fast charge" which allow you phone to drain more power from the PC and allow it to charge almost as fast as via charger. You can not access files while connected to the PC if the "fast charge" option is enabled.
As already stated above, AC charging is generally faster.
Now many people say that charging by USB will make your phone last longer, but from my personal experience is quite opposite, plus, usb charging is easily interrupted (PC hibernating, stand-by, restarting, etc...). if you are comfortable with both ways (neither PC nor wall outlet too far away), use wall AC.
interesting, i noticed charging via AC (wall) gives my dying battery that extra oomph and seems to make my phone last longer in the day
I think Charger is always best than PC charging.
Its fast.
AC charging is faster due to a higher voltage and ma charge rate
USB uses a much more lower voltage and ma charge rate, it is true that USB charging is SLOWER and a myth is that USB charging does make your battery last longer.
On sense 2.1 I noticed my battery last 4 days with low - medium ussage because I only charged with USB but now I charge with AC with medium ussage my battery lasts a day.
With kernel tuner you can add a 4x4 widget which can tell you the voltage and mah raise / drain
Sent from my HTC Desire HD using xda app-developers app
I think the power if you charger the mobile from Charger it will be faster more than PC charging
-SmOgER said:
As already stated above, AC charging is generally faster.
Now many people say that charging by USB will make your phone last longer, but from my personal experience is quite opposite, plus, usb charging is easily interrupted (PC hibernating, stand-by, restarting, etc...). if you are comfortable with both ways (neither PC nor wall outlet too far away), use wall AC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1. I vote AC charging
Charging with Original charger is awesome
Charging from Orginal charger takes less time then chargin from a pc usb
Charging from charger is faster, but charging from USB is more stable, as far as I know...Because it has a balanced voltage all the time. Not sure though. Just heard from somewhere.
Hey Guys,
So I was recently on a trip this weekend and was using Navigation on my Nexus 5 for a 4 hour drive. I had noticed though after a short while that while I had my Nexus 5 plugged into a charger it was still continuing to drain battery.
With my Galaxy Nexus in the past I was able to run Navigation / Music / Etc.. all whilst still charging so it came as a disappointment when I saw this.
I made sure that I was charging on (AC) mode and it still continued to fall, albeit a little slower than (USB) mode though. When I went to the battery usage navigation had taken up about 59% of the battery drain, I was surprised because I though it would have been the screen but that was only like 14% of the battery drain.
Anyone else run into this issue?
Check the Amp output on the charger. Anything less than 1A will not charge the phone while in use.
I had the exact opposite issue with my G-Nex, the "rapid" charger I was using only output 550mAh as opposed to the 1A that is required to charge while in use. I don't believe it is an issue with the phone, it's probably just the charger. $10 to $20 will get you a nice, reliable one with the proper output, and possibly an additional USB port.
Hopefully this helps
Don't buy cheap car chargers, just not enough power. I use a Verizon car charger that has an extra USB port for charging another device and it charges while the device is in use.
Thanks for the input guys, unfortunately the charger was 1 amp that I was using. I do have another car charger that I use and none of them are the cheap USB ones. I guess I'll have to do some more testing with the other car charger that I have.
I was just mainly concerned, not if there was something wrong with the phone, but with the fact that even when charging in AC it wouldn't keep up with navigation's wear on the battery usage.
Thought I would update to confirm that my Galaxy Nexus car dock charger charged it extremely well after testing while navigating.
Definitely was the other one I was using.
When you switched chargers did you happen to also use a different cable? I couldn't get any of three different chargers that I tried to keep up with the GPS battery drain. Then I realized I was using the same cable with all 3 chargers. The problem was that the cable kept the phone in DC charging mode at nothing more than 0.5 amps. I bought this fast charging cable on Amazon and now I actually gain battery percentage even while using my GPS full time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088HTYUE/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit
jalanjkcarp said:
When you switched chargers did you happen to also use a different cable? I couldn't get any of three different chargers that I tried to keep up with the GPS battery drain. Then I realized I was using the same cable with all 3 chargers. The problem was that the cable kept the phone in DC charging mode at nothing more than 0.5 amps. I bought this fast charging cable on Amazon and now I actually gain battery percentage even while using my GPS full time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088HTYUE/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit
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Click to collapse
I had exactly the same thing with my old phone and discovered it was the cable not letting more than 380 ma pass through it.
There are apps like this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw that let you monitor mah in and out etc so you can test out different leads and chargers
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.
[QUOTE8=syafix21;50085752]Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.[/QUOTE]
Charger maybe, but most on here get a new factory cabel and that takes care of it.
syafix21 said:
Hello, I'm a N8000 user. I'm facing a problem with my charging issue where my tab take a long time to charge and it takes 10 hours to get from 0-60 %. FYI, I'm using a custom rom CM 10.2. What is the main cause with the charging issue? Does it related with charging port, battery or charger itself? please help me. I'm stuck now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many similar thread already here & also the solutions.
But let me answer anyway.
Charging problem occurs because of one or more things:
Broken Cable
Broken Charger
Incompatible Cable
Incompatible Charger
Broken Outlet
Broken Charging Port
Broken Battery
To properly charging a N80XX we need a charger & cable that can deliver 2.1A, 5V of electrical current & voltage.
The factory default/initial charger & cable designed to deliver these requirements.
Using custom/cheap cable or cable extension can cause charging problem as it wasn't designed to deliver the required current & voltage.
Most custom cables & chargers on the market designed only to deliver 500mA(0.5A) - 1A, 5V.
Broken cable/charger can also cause it to fail in delivering 2.1A, 5V to the device.
Try another original cable/charger combination to test if one of them or both are broken.
Also try another electrical wall outlet to see if the outlet is the culprit.
For Broken Charging Port, you can change it yourself by buying the spare part & replace the broken one, but it requires high technical skills.
One mistake can cause you to ditch your device.
It's safer if you send it to a qualified/authorized service center or if it's still under warranty you can send it back to samsung.
The last possibility is extremely rare.
Broken Battery symptoms are usually different than your problem symptoms.
If the battery is broken, usually the battery life is shorter than usual and may be won't charge at all or charging time is very short.
But if this is your problem, you can't sent it back to samsung - unless the battery is factory damaged -, as you need to change the internal battery.
Try to find out which one is your real problem & fix it
REMINDER:
2.1A is producing heat so much that hurt your skin if you touch the metal part of the cable heads directly right after a long period of charging.
The heat it produce is much more intense than if you are using 500mA or 1A charger.
Poorly designed custom cable/charger can be melted by the heat & may cause explosion!!
...and.....ALWAYS SEARCH BEFORE ASKING!!
I hope this will help
I'd like to add that I was facing similar problem.
In my case, the problem was a stock charger cable.
It was not "broken" (in the meaning of totally cracked or cut cable) but it seemed that it isn't providing a stable voltage. In result, I was able to load the battery only when not using the device (plus the process was as slow as hell), coz when using it, the consumed power was higher than provided by the charger.
Meanwhile, before the problem occured, I was testing other solutions to be able to make charging cord longer than provided stock, which is only 1m. Those tests included using of the additional 2m USB-USB expansion cable which I was plugging to the plastic charger element from the one side and to the regular charging cable at the second side. Such a combination resulted in similiar results as above - then, it became obvious for me that the tablet consumes or wants to consume so high power that low-quality USB cable can't handle, and - especially if it is 2m long - it's degrading onto his way to the tablet.
Then, I am not sure if n8000, by demanding so much power, is not degrading the cable (even stock one) itself. I must say, that after that, I was using another charger cables (n8000 dedicated, one 2m second one 1.5m, both not original) which started to work significantly worse in even shorter time such as two weeks after first use. I am not a electrician or hardware specialist, I dunno if it is possible to degenerate the usb cable with the voltage such as one needed for charging the tablet, but during my over 10 years of passion within mobile devices, I have killed no more than 2 chargers IN TOTAL. N8000 killed 3 charging cables within 8 months.
For some time, I use another combination - I use a 1,5 long A/C extension cord, with a handy "8" plug at the second end. This fits into the charger "central box" after you dissolve it into two parts. Now, the voltage will not degenerate onto this 1.5m distance, as the cable of that type was designed particularly for 230V transfers, but it will still be perfectly mobile. At the second side of the box, I do not plug back the 1m stock cable (or longer not-official ones), but a cable that the Samsung provided along with an external battery, which is possible to buy here and there... It is about... 20 cm long The purpose of this was to avoid the energy lossess that occured when using longer cables and preserve the maximum possible charging rate. Since then (and about 5 months has passed) I have no further problems with charging, and the battery life seems to be much more better than I supposed it to be after over a year of really extensive usage (the only issue of above solution is that the plastic box in the middle is making really really hot, but it is not a critical problem i suppose, as since 5 months it HASN'T melted, exploded or something )
hay....i have the same problem but this tablet doesnt get charging
i think its not about charger because it gives 5v and 2A after the usb flat but in battery connector i got no current and there is just less than 1V voltage
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Happened to me once, rebooted the phone and fast charging was working again.
4chanz said:
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
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Click to collapse
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
Also make sure you using good quality cable. Some weak ones can "block" quick charge. Best setup is just the stock one.
superdioz said:
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
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Click to collapse
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue. EDIT: as przemo3679 says below, Qualcomm Quick Charge standard negotiates the higher voltage mode over the data pins, so "charge only" style cords with the data pins missing or shorted will not work in QC mode.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
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Click to collapse
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
superdioz said:
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
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Click to collapse
It does not disable the fast charge simply because the screen is on. That is how you keep phrasing it.
It disables fast charge if the phone is overheating. Technically this is not the same thing.
Many common usage factors (gaming, heavy mobile data use, high screen brightness, etc.) can make the heat build up fast enough to trigger thermal throttling and disable fast charge of course. But it is also possible to tweak the kernel and thermal files and adjust usage (light browsing only, use strong wifi in lieu of mobile radio, reduce screen brightness) to keep the phone in fast charge even when screen is on.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
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I disagree. If phone is charging, but not fast it is usually caused by damaged data lanes, or too big resistance on some lane. Cables without sync lanes would work on some devices, but would not on others, current will be limited to 500mA. It's hard to say on which.
And w/o data pins quick charge can't work on any device. Phone use it to communicate with charger to set best voltage and current to actual device.
As i said, original is the best. U can't blame damaged cord for charging issues.
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
OP here. I use the stock charger and cable that came with the phone, plus they dont see damaged or very used. Still feeling it "slow" :s
I have H950 Stock 5.0.1 , sometimes quick charge doesn't work properly so I turn the power off and charge while off for half an hour it charges very fast and reaches over 70% then turn it back on
Le_Zouave said:
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
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I agree with You, in short words more current (A) means more temperature. At the same power (W) bigger voltage (V) means lower current (A). But i think u didn't get what i mean. There is some kind mechanism, which block quick charge when cable is too crapy. I had one of those, and it was fully functional witch data lanes, but it was designed to power 0,5A device. When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
I also want to refer to your words: "quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important". It is advantage of the quick charge, but not main purpose. U can always made a bit thicker lanes. But you can't change connector. Remember that USB 2.0 standard was designed in april 2000, so it is a bit old now . Back in the days nobody was thinking about 5,5" monsters with 3Ah batteries. Flex is charging with around 15W and it is too much(it can dangerously hot, create arcs etc.). Remember that conductor heats up the most in the greatest resistance point, which is connector. Now we have USB type C, with better connector, which can hold on greater currents, but if we have standard, why did not use it (QC2.0 & QC3.0), and have thinner cord?
About charging time, mine from 0-10% to about 90% takes about an hour.
Guys i solved the problem, after noticing that now the animations (rotation, multitasking, and others) werent working, i decided to do a hard reset, now everything is working, fastcharge, animations, etc. not sure what was the cause, a friend told me was a virus for watching porn lol
przemo3679 said:
When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
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I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
Le_Zouave said:
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
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My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
przemo3679 said:
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
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I think you mean the opposite, without the data pin (2 center pin on usb plug) the phone will think he is on a charger and don't limit itself for drawing current even if it's connected to a computer.
Normally a usb device have to be limited to 5V and 500mA,
But qc need the data pin to negotiate the qc voltage so if you use a usb cable without data pin it will stay at 5V.
I have one cable that top at 5V and 100mA (around 80mA normaly) it's very low and it can't charge the phone, it just make it lose battery more slowly, in that case I don't have the message you talk about. That message should appear when it's connected on a computer. My usb voltmeter also have a feature to block data pin, when that feature is activated the message don't pop and it draw more than 500mA from a computer.
There is a good voltmeter on aliexpress, I can make you the link but it's easily recognizable with a transparent blue case, around 10$. There is many model so be sure to take the quick charge compatible. You can make theory on many things but you can truly understand only if you try by yourself.