Can I use 3G or say my schools wi-fi to access my home computer?
If you're tethering from 3G, just make sure you portforward your router, and just put your external ip in the settings. Google ipchicken to find out your external ip.
Interesting.
But any idea how do I make my IP fixed?
It seems that the external IP changes whenever I make a new tether connection.
BTW, which port should I forward through?m My 2wire router ask only for the tcp/udp port for forwarding, it does not require me to key in any IP address.
Can you advice?
thanks.
cloud1111 said:
If you're tethering from 3G, just make sure you portforward your router, and just put your external ip in the settings. Google ipchicken to find out your external ip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To work around the dynamic external IP address you can set up a free account at DynDNS:
http://dyn.com/dns/dyndns-free/
The above link will set up a hostname for your IP address and when it changes, DynDNS will automatically update.
To forward the correct ports, go to the website below and choose the router model you have and then select "Splashtop Remote" from the list after that. (You'll get redirected to an AD, just click skip ad at the top right of the page)
http://portforward.com/
If you already know how to forward the ports, they are 6783 to 6785, both TCP & UDP
Splashtop can sign into a Google account and find itself regardless of networks. I've had no troubles hitting my computer from miles away using that method. Being said I nixed my loud and bought splashtop HD, easily with the money.
ryan stewart said:
Splashtop can sign into a Google account and find itself regardless of networks. I've had no troubles hitting my computer from miles away using that method. Being said I nixed my loud and bought splashtop HD, easily with the money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the best method, and easiest. I used my above solution when it wouldn't work with my Gmail account. But I already had DYNDNS set up for my media server so I only had to forward the ports.
Sent from my I897 using XDA App
Just a note/caveat they are correct that, no matter what, you are going to need to make sure your route is setup to make your computer connectable on those ports. Otherwise its just going to block the traffic thinking its malicious.
I have run into connectivity errors on some networks because they also block traffic on non-common ports, so if you occasionally cant find yourself that could be it.
thank guys!!
very infomative!
I tried everything.
I forwarded ports on my router.
Disabled my firewalls.
Changed to Static IP on my computer, then router, then both.
Made sure the ip was outside DCHP range.
Rebooted after every change.
Tried DynDNS, but I must be stupid because there's no way to enter a host address in splashtop.
Tried using external programs to set a static internal ip.
Set Splashtop to external/internal IP.
I don't know what the hell it is, but I just can't get this nonsense to work. I don't understand what's so easy about this for some people. I have comcast cable modem attached to n300v3 router over WAN, and nothing I try works. Been at this for 3 days. Time I quit.
Are you doing the google account link? That, along with making the ports pass through on my router, was all I did. Seriously, that is is. Comcast/xfinity with a belkin wifi router.
Hello all!
Not sure if this has been posted but I figured I would put up a new post. I am showing that I am connected to my home WiFi but I am not able to actually use it. For instance, I cannot open links or watch YouTube videos. I believe it is the router because I just had a Droid RAZR and my connections to the Internet were not dependable. Currently, I am using AT&T's 2Wire 2701HG-B Gateway router.
Are there any settings that should be adjusted within the router? Encryption type is WPA-PSK. Wireless mode is 802.11g/b.
I just got my S3 yesterday and so far WiFi works in other places. Also, I tried the #*0011# thing and that did not work for me. I've rebooted and factory reset my device. Nothing helps. Anything I can change?
Thanks in advance!
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
ooofest said:
Does your router Administration panel (perhaps accessed via a web browser?) show your phone as connected with an assigned IP address?
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that I'm looking, no it doesn't have it listed there. My phone says its connoted though. I forgot the connection, rebooted the phone and did the #*0011# and reconnected the network. Still the same result. Any ideas?
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
I've seen some routers being a bit buggy about showing all wireless-connected devices (my dual-band Netgear comes to mind), so I can only think of a few things to check:
This assumes your router is configured for DHCP and that you have addresses available in its configured range, etc.
1. Does anything else use this router successfully to access the Internet?
2. On your phone, Settings -> Wi-Fi->(click on the wireless network you are "Connected" to)->View, does it show an expected speed and a valid IP address from your router?
3. If (2.) revealed a valid IP address on the phone, can you ping that address from another system attached to the same router?
4. Did you connect the phone using a typed-in passphrase on both router and phone or by using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup (WPS) push-button method on the router? I found that, no matter how carefully I typed the passphrase, it often would not connect to my desired network because something was somehow amiss. However, this phone is compatible with using WPS, so I used the router's push-button method and it connected easily + worked fine.
Just some things to check and ensure nothing critical is amiss.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Yes, my iPad and two laptops.
2. There is a link speed and an IP address but the third number of the IP address on my phone is different than the third number of the IP addresses of the devices listed that connect to the router. I hope I made some type of sense saying that lol! There are about 6 devices listed that connect to the router and the first, second and third numbers are the same. My phone only have the first & second numbers in common.
3. didn't try that because I'm assuming something isn't right from the previous answer.
4. I typed in the pass phrase from my phone. I do not know of any other way to connect the device. I am not familiar with doing it from the admin panel especially since I'm not even seeing the device there.
Thanks again!
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
ooofest said:
Yeah, not getting the proper address range would be indicative of a problem authenticating with the router, I'd suspect. If you are using the default router configuration, it should have an IP address of 192.168.1.x, where x = {some number}
You might try temporarily setting the router to "WEP-Open" and no passphrase on the phone (i.e., connect to the open network) to determine if the phone can obtain a valid IP address from this router before doing more debugging. This might weed out the possibility that this new phone has an inherent problem connecting with your specific router - even though other devices don't have such issues, maybe the Galaxy S III is sensitive in this regard.
Consider ensuring that the "Power setting" in your wireless configuration is at its maximum value (10?).
Aside, I don't know if the latest firmware enables WPA2-PSK, but that utilizes AES and is often more efficient than WPA-PSK, from my understanding. If using WEP-Open works for your new phone in the above test, then consider setting the router to "WPA-PSK and WPA2-PSK" (if it has that value) and try reconnecting using the passphrase (either 10 or 26 letters/numbers) - that setting should be compatible with your other devices and not require them to be reconfigured, I believe.
This topic seems to indicate people have problems with your model of router in making and keeping wireless connections at times, sometimes needing to hardcode the router down to only use "b" protocol (i.e., slower) for maintaining stable connections. I don't think that's the case here, though.
This User Guide (.pdf) for your router model does not seem to show that it offers WPS as an alternative for establishing device connectivity. From my recollection, my phone would only connect reliably to the router using encryption when I used the WPS button on the router. That's why I asked you to set your router to be Open for a test.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
iLogikk said:
I tried WEEP-Open and that did not allow me to connect either. I did set up WPA2 but I still was not able to connect. The power setting was set to 10. Not sure how to manually add the device which I was going to try. I've forgot it several times and added it again but it does not work. I did connect at a different location. Not sure what else to try. Even tried changing the channel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
ooofest said:
If it's not connecting to your router with WEP-Open, then something different is going on. I looked in the manual for MAC Address access lists, but that doesn't appear to be a feature of this router (unless it was added in a firmware update which came after the manual was published - if this was the case, your laptops and iDevice would have had their MAC addresses added to the router as another layer of access control to the WiFi network).
Sorry, I'm out of ideas on this one. You seemed to say that the Samsung connects to other WiFi points, so perhaps there is an inherent incompatibility between this router model and your phone which can be reported to Samsung and/or Verizon Tech Support - for all we know, this is a known issue.
- ooofest
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for all of your help!
Rams99 said:
I had the same issue as you. I would be connected to my router and nothing at all. I am using a att modem/router along with my netgear wndr3800. But wifi was dropping a lot of the time. I never had this problem before when I had my Rezound. 3 days before I got my S3 I upgraded the firmware on my netgear router. I am guessing my S3 didn't like the firmware update or something. I tried everything in the router settings to doing a factory reset on both the att modem and my netgear router. Nothing... So I honestly thought it was my phone. Called Verizon and asked them to ship me a refurbished. So, I thought I would try one more thing. Revert back to my old firmware on the netgear router. Well it worked. Since Friday night I haven't had the issue you are having. Connected to my home wifi with no drops at all. It could be the firmware. Wonder if you could revert back. On a att modem/router I am not sure.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
iLogikk said:
I've tried every way possible to find a way to revert back but it does not work. No success. I've noticed that this S3, my old razr, & another android phone does not actually connect. The comet (3rd phone) actually appears on the the panel but the ip address on the phone is different than what is showing on the admin page for my router. The phone does show whereas the razr and s3 never even appear in the list though they say they are connected.
I'm at a dead end
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest. It's not your phone. I think you said you already did a factory reset on the modem/router correct? If not, do it and revert back to factory settings. If that doesn't work I would call att and tell them to send you another att modem/router. Tell them your wifi is down. Hopefully you'll get everything back to where it was. Good luck.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Fix
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr! http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
I tried this part but all of my settings were already set to match this....including it because it was part of the process.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by shakefry
My little sister received a cool Toshiba Thrive for Christmas but the thing will not connect to the proprietary router we have. The router isn't the problem because I've been able to connect a Macbook, 2 PCs, a 3DS and a smartphone to it and they all work as needed. When we put in the password for the connection it saying it is 'scanning' and 'connecting' then disconnects and starts going into a scanning loop saying is scanning then stopping then starting again.
I found a similar topic about this but the thread did not answer my question. I followed all of the steps of given solutions to no avail. And the constant suggestion to set the beacon or preamble differently is highly frustrating because the model router I have does not have such settings (I have gone through all the menus about ten times, literally).
I have also heard that the connection security could be a factor but I am not willing to downgrade my WPA 2 (TKIP & AES) to a WPA 1 or WEP, unless its absolutely necessary. I've been googling for hours so I need a solution or unfortunately we will have to return it for a more compatible device, which would suck because we got this for a good price (new).
Our router is a 2WIRE 3800 hgv-b (we have AT&T Uverse, idk if I should specify anything else)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi shakefry - Nice to meet you. You are 100 percent right you should not lower your security - WPA2 is the strongest and it does work fine with Thrive. That is what I use.
For some reason the ATT 2-wire routers are the most frustrating, but that is not a problem. We just might have to try a few different things, instead of getting it to connect the first time, so stay with me, OK? big brothers always have to help their little sisters...
----
1. You do not have MAC Filtering enabled,do you? If you do add the Thrive's MAC to the Router's list of permitted devices. Then try connecting.....
2. Not using MAC Filtering, or you added the thrive and still can not connect ......
OK, First ... Lets get the info your Windows Laptop has about your router when it connects
successfully to the 3800HG-B Router via wifi:
On your (Win7?) PC that is successfully connected by wifi to the same network, lets get some wifi settings. Vista - pretty much the same screens, XP a little different looking.
Click on the wifi signal lower right taskbar, open network and sharing center.
click on right side in blue, your network name
Pop up window - click on Details
the detail window opens ...
IPv4 Subnet Mask should be 255.255.255.0, if not we need to change it in the router settings.
This would prevent you from getting to the internet, but with all devices not just thrive.
Copy down IPv4 Default Gateway, and both IPv4 Servers
(Most routers will not need the actual IPv4 addresses in the devices DNS1 and DNS2, but yours might)
Now (no picture) close the DETAILS window and click on WIRELESS PROPERTIES. click on SECURITY tab, then click on SHOW PASSWORD. DO NOT CHANGE THIS FIELD, YOUR PC WILL DISCONNECT. WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS FIELD IS THE CORRECT PASSWORD TO YOUR NETWORK.
(I just want to be 100 percent sure - this is the password you need to log the thrive on. You are pretty sharp with all this stuff, so you know it is case sensitive, don't mistake a "zero" for the cap letter O, etc.
We will try using these when we set Thrive's wifi settings for your network.
(Go to link to find the screenshot)
Now please check the following router summary page by logging on to your router.
Make sure, on the right side it, shows enough DHCP Available, and on that the router
address is still 192.168.1.254
And on the left, the page is exactly the same as below, none of the blank fields are filled in, right?
And the top button is still selected ..... 192.168.1.0/255.255.255.0 (default)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THIS IS WHERE THE ACTUAL FIX CAME IN
Originally Posted by shakefry
"Would it possibly help if i DID enable filtering? then I could just put in all the device's MAC addresses and maybe it'll be more focused or something?"
No filtering wont "pull in" the devices, through the front door of the router. Filtering will just turn them around and kick them out again if they are not on the "invited to the party" List.
"edit: I just found a similar page, the design is slightly different. The router/gateway address is one number above my DHCP range and it says I have 178 available and there are 12 allocated (weird because we only have 10 devices connected to this thing that I know of)
OK so you have plenty of available IP addresses (DHCP). It is normal to see a couple more than the number of devices you have."
So now you have the info you need to connect the thrive (maybe):
1-Hold the Thrive in portrait mode so the keyboard does not hide the settings
...
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
enter 192.168.1.173. (a nice odd numbered unused ip, away from the auto assigned ones).
(You are making it an odd number (173) because if you buy, in the future, something like a network drive, or AppleTV, it will probably come with a nice "multiple of five" static number like 150 or 155 or 35
the "CONNECT" is greyed out .... right?
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
ARE YOU CONNECTED???
If NO
1- update the router's firmware - try connecting again
2- We will give up on the 3800 and add your second router, with different sets of DHCP ranges, and broadcasting on a non-conflicting channels to the 3800's channel ( channels 1, 6, and 11 do not conflict with each other - assign one router to channel one and the other to channel 11, and keep them a couple of feet away from each other.
shakefry, Please Let us know how it goes, which solution worked ... so other forum readers can help their little sisters too ....
we are standing by (actually in my comfy recliner waiting ..)
Thanks, bobj
aka Bojo, or Obi-Wan, or RouterRooter
I was able to connect to wifi consistently and access the Internet and YouTube app successfully. Hope this helps someone else!!!
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Glad to hear you got it going. I actually fixed mine about 3 days ago. I read somewhere changing your ssid inside the router helps. Well, I did and it actually worked. I haven't had a problem with my wifi signal yet. On mine what was happening also was whenever my phone would go into sleep for say 5min and I went to use the Internet immediately. It would take the wifi about 20-30secs for the wifi to wake up. So far, since changing my ssid I haven't had that problem at all.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
iLogikk said:
This is what finally worked after two weeks of researching! Found this here for the toshiba thrive but it worked for mr!
. . .
2- Go to Settings >> Wireless and Networks >> Wi-Fi settings >> tap your network name, Tap FORGET
Now when your network name shows up again under wifi settings ....
select WPA2
Enter password, it is case sensitive.
3- tap the triangle where it says DHCP, select "static"
. . .
4- enter routers gateway 192.168.1.254
enter prefix 24
enter dns1 192.168.1.254
5- the"CONNECT" brightened up again? Tap CONNECT.
....... OR ..........
CONNECT is still greyed out? Enter DNS2 192.168.1.254, tap CONNECT
. . .
Source: http://www.thriveforums.org/forum/t...1-thrive-will-not-connect-t-2wire-router.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting a followup.
Did you delete and re-add the WiFi network on your phone, configuring it for a static route and IP address that was in the range on the router, essentially?
- ooofest
Hello anyone know of an app that can save static ip profiles for the same ssid, for jellybean?
A complete profile manager would do too (one that controls sounds, and what not) just as long as I can specify a static ip profile for an ssid. Then be able to setup another profile for the same ssid using a different static ip.
bump, iv'e tried a ton of different apps but they wont save different profiles for same ssid.....
Most of them seem to be dhcp profile and a static profile. Allowing you to fast switch between the 2. I just need to setup up 2 static ip profiles for the same ssid. to fast switch static ip's when i need to.
Reasons being is I have a secondary router(in client mode, dhcp disabled) that passes through the main router ( like a switch ) which has dhcp enabled. Sure i can do the dhcp and static thing, but I hate having my ip change from time to time. I have apps that need static ip's that I use with the main router. and inside the main one I cant specify a static ip with dhcp on, and well I need dhcp running on that one. For other reasons. Sorry my setup is messed up but its how I need it.
Even if i could disable dhcp on teh main router and setup static ip for all my network devices, I still need an app to save 2 static ip's >,< for the same ssid. I may try to mod an app, but jesus thats a whole nother ball game.
He"double hockey sticks" I'll even take configuring advice at this point. Perhaps I can do something. But I'm pretty sure this is how I need it. If you need details just ask.
bother router have different isp connections. I frequently change between them both on numerous devices. It's a pain to keep chnaging ips around...
Any updates on this?
I am also interested for an app like this!
Is it possible to configure the Gear S2's WiFi functionality to work on a non-DHCP wireless network? I have a Classic on order, and hope to be able to use it in a secure environment which requires manual configuration of a connecting device's IP address, gateway, and DNS settings. I'd also need to find the watch's wireless MAC address due to router whitelisting. From what I can tell the watch gets its initial wireless settings from the tethered phone, but it would still need its own static IP in this case.
Tekkie3 said:
Is it possible to configure the Gear S2's WiFi functionality to work on a non-DHCP wireless network? I have a Classic on order, and hope to be able to use it in a secure environment which requires manual configuration of a connecting device's IP address, gateway, and DNS settings. I'd also need to find the watch's wireless MAC address due to router whitelisting. From what I can tell the watch gets its initial wireless settings from the tethered phone, but it would still need its own static IP in this case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem, I need to configure my IP address manually. Did you find a solution?
astepunk said:
I have the same problem, I need to configure my IP address manually. Did you find a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I did. If you tell the watch to forget the initial WiFi network it sees (but tries to use DHCP with) and scan for others, you will then have the ability to specify static IP, gateway, and DNS values by tapping on the name. If already connected to the phone via Bluetooth, you may need to temporarily disable Bluetooth in order to fall back to WiFi in order to configure it. You can also look up the watch's MAC address under Gear info, About device.
Tekkie3 said:
Yes I did. If you tell the watch to forget the initial WiFi network it sees (but tries to use DHCP with) and scan for others, you will then have the ability to specify static IP, gateway, and DNS values by tapping on the name. If already connected to the phone via Bluetooth, you may need to temporarily disable Bluetooth in order to fall back to WiFi in order to configure it. You can also look up the watch's MAC address under Gear info, About device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much. It worked perfectly!
I'm having issues with my internet and am unable to do certain things that are sensitive to the NAT type. I have an LG Stylo 2 (Sprint), Windows 7 PC, Linksys router, Xbox One. Here's the order things are connected in
LGLS775>USB Tethered via PDANet>Windows 7 PC>Ethernet wire>Linksys router>Ethernet wire>Xbox One
I'm not sure how to set things up to fix the NAT type. Connection details: 60ms ping. 28 download. 7 upload. 100% packet loss.
I can still play certain games and access certain websites. But not everything. PLEASE DO NO TELL ME TO GO TO A DIFFERENT FORUM! ONLY POST HELPFUL ANSWERS
3 years later.
This is almost the same setup I'm working with but im using the wifi instead of usb on those parts.
For anyone having these issues I've got a couple things to try.
You can connect directly to pdanet via WiFi with pretty much any device (that I've seen so far) if you're able to set the proxy setting to manual using the ip given in pdanet with the port 8000. For me it would be 192.168.49.1:8000.
Or if you have to or just prefer to use a PDANet -> PC -> Router -> Device setup.
I used to have a much worse time with disconnects and error codes playing Destiny 2 on Steam, I still have problems here and there, sometimes often still. Ive got a good feeling though that what i did, actually improved my situation at least a bit.
In pdanet top right little menu with "Help" and "Dev Code", select IPv6 Support, then Prioritize IPv4.
Then in Windows, head to Network and Sharing, Change adapter settings, right click > properties on the adapter doing ICS then (what i did) uncheck "Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6)", "QoS Packet Scheduler", and anything else that isn't default, in my case, Npcap Packet Drivers.
I actually can't be sure that any of these really did anything but im much less frustrated than i used to be.
Also in my case im using a Netgear in AP mode, which ends up with a different local ip than ones that pdanet give. For me, after pdanet is adequately connected to the router, it seems that most of my Android devices work without further setup but some devices require setting a static ip, which should be easy to find using "arp -a" or "ipconfig" in cmd.
-In My Case-
The gateway was 192.168.137.1 so i choose any 2 digit number after 137. for the main (connecting device's) ip. Example. 192.168.137.23
So when connecting device to router via WiFi you will choose to set Manual/Static IP then after that the settings should look something like...
IP: 192.168.137.23
Gateway: 192.168.137.1
DNS: 192.168.137.1
Secondary DNS: 8.8.8.8
If v these v are set automatically or not required then you should be able to ignore them
Network prefix length: 24
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
I'm still trying to find other ways to set things that may be better but so far these are working okay for me. Don't hesitate to ask any question if clarification is needed, i understand a lot of things i post can be confusing. I hope at least some of this was helpful in any way!
CornholeOS_x86 said:
3 years later.
This is almost the same setup I'm working with but im using the wifi instead of usb on those parts.
For anyone having these issues I've got a couple things to try.
You can connect directly to pdanet via WiFi with pretty much any device (that I've seen so far) if you're able to set the proxy setting to manual using the ip given in pdanet with the port 8000. For me it would be 192.168.49.1:8000.
Or if you have to or just prefer to use a PDANet -> PC -> Router -> Device setup.
I used to have a much worse time with disconnects and error codes playing Destiny 2 on Steam, I still have problems here and there, sometimes often still. Ive got a good feeling though that what i did, actually improved my situation at least a bit.
In pdanet top right little menu with "Help" and "Dev Code", select IPv6 Support, then Prioritize IPv4.
Then in Windows, head to Network and Sharing, Change adapter settings, right click > properties on the adapter doing ICS then (what i did) uncheck "Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6)", "QoS Packet Scheduler", and anything else that isn't default, in my case, Npcap Packet Drivers.
I actually can't be sure that any of these really did anything but im much less frustrated than i used to be.
Also in my case im using a Netgear in AP mode, which ends up with a different local ip than ones that pdanet give. For me, after pdanet is adequately connected to the router, it seems that most of my Android devices work without further setup but some devices require setting a static ip, which should be easy to find using "arp -a" or "ipconfig" in cmd.
-In My Case-
The gateway was 192.168.137.1 so i choose any 2 digit number after 137. for the main (connecting device's) ip. Example. 192.168.137.23
So when connecting device to router via WiFi you will choose to set Manual/Static IP then after that the settings should look something like...
IP: 192.168.137.23
Gateway: 192.168.137.1
DNS: 192.168.137.1
Secondary DNS: 8.8.8.8
If v these v are set automatically or not required then you should be able to ignore them
Network prefix length: 24
Subnet mask: 255.255.255.0
I'm still trying to find other ways to set things that may be better but so far these are working okay for me. Don't hesitate to ask any question if clarification is needed, i understand a lot of things i post can be confusing. I hope at least some of this was helpful in any way!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I actually figured it out a while back but now I'm in the same boat since I've moved to a place with no highspeed again. Same basis except I'm now T-Mobile, using a VPN and the Hotspot VPN APK. Same connection route. If I remember correctly there was an IP address error with the 137.anything. I'll post an update soon.
Anything better then pdanet ? That bypass data speed throttle after using so much???