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Does anybody know where to buy hard wire kits to install a micro USB charger into your car? All I have found on them so far is something like this:
http://www.buybits.com/product/sku_6137.aspx
Only problem is everything I can find is in the UK. I am trying to find something state side. Does anybody know where I can get some?
ccunningham83 said:
Does anybody know where to buy hard wire kits to install a micro USB charger into your car? All I have found on them so far is something like this:
http://www.buybits.com/product/sku_6137.aspx
Only problem is everything I can find is in the UK. I am trying to find something state side. Does anybody know where I can get some?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could pick up one of the 12volt ciggarette adapters that plug into normal socket and have a standard usb port that provides 5 volts. Take it apart, add an inline fuse (if it doesn't already have one) and wire that into any 12 volt source and mount the usb port wherever you want (or chop and attach a mini usb cable and leave the cable hanging wherever you want).
I've found those for under $10.00 in the states and have done this identical mod before (for something else, but same idea).
ccunningham83 said:
Does anybody know where to buy hard wire kits to install a micro USB charger into your car? All I have found on them so far is something like this:
http://www.buybits.com/product/sku_6137.aspx
Only problem is everything I can find is in the UK. I am trying to find something state side. Does anybody know where I can get some?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, the 500ma spec of that unit is not sufficient to power and charge many modern smartphones, including the N1.
You are better of fabbing your own solution from a microusb car charger rated at [email protected] or better.
Charger lead -- this?
How about http://buybits.com/product/7441.aspx that seems to be what you're after but then all you need is a micro adaptor.
They might even do one.
Steve
you could DIY it?
grab a 12v 1amp car adaptor, take it apart, find a suitable box from your nearest maplins (radioshack = USA equiv?) and fit the electrics into the box.
replace the fused side of the 12v adaptor with a fuse, wire and 2x ring terminals to your battery.
since it has standard USB, your free to use anything you wish.
i've done things slightly differently, i got a 4-way 12v accessory unit, and hard-wired that into the car. (http://www.towsure.com/product/4_Way_Cigar_Lighter_Socket_Adaptor). that you way you charge multiple devices..
ccunningham83 said:
Does anybody know where to buy hard wire kits to install a micro USB charger into your car? All I have found on them so far is something like this:
Only problem is everything I can find is in the UK. I am trying to find something state side. Does anybody know where I can get some?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
___________________________________
Search for this at Amazon:
Hardwire Barewire Power Micro USB Cable for SmartPhones including Droid and Many Micro USB Devices:
amazon.com/Hardwire-Barewire-SmartPhones-including-Devices/dp/B005J4OTUO/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1360622241&sr=1-1&keywords=Hardwire+Barewire+Power+Micro+USB+Cable
I have this installed in my car.
Would post a link but do not have enough posts yet.
I believe the 40 pin connector has everything we could use including HDMI, USB, charging, and probably more.
Does anyone know the pinout and the mating connector? I want to make an adapter that would make the HDelight WHDI transmitter work with the tablet directly without the dock. It needs power from USB, in addition to HDMI. I am guessing both are in the 40 pin connector.
BUMP
Since the TF101 has been out a while, so hoping someone has some info on this?
cloud9ine said:
I believe the 40 pin connector has everything we could use including HDMI, USB, charging, and probably more.
Does anyone know the pinout and the mating connector? I want to make an adapter that would make the HDelight WHDI transmitter work with the tablet directly without the dock. It needs power from USB, in addition to HDMI. I am guessing both are in the 40 pin connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would be pretty neat , But sorry i got no information on the topic
cloud9ine said:
I believe the 40 pin connector has everything we could use including HDMI, USB, charging, and probably more.
Does anyone know the pinout and the mating connector? I want to make an adapter that would make the HDelight WHDI transmitter work with the tablet directly without the dock. It needs power from USB, in addition to HDMI. I am guessing both are in the 40 pin connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have got the 40pin connector but don't know what can i do with it.. ummm.. I mean, What's the accessories will be hot? A cable integrated HDMI,USB3.0 and WLAN? Dose TF101 has a WLAN? I haven't open my TF to see..
xjarl said:
I have got the 40pin connector but don't know what can i do with it.. ummm.. I mean, What's the accessories will be hot? A cable integrated HDMI,USB3.0 and WLAN? Dose TF101 has a WLAN? I haven't open my TF to see..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can make a bunch of Power Adapters for it...that's be great. I've been trying to find the 40pin connector for a while now.
I don't think people need HDMI out on the cable, b/c that's built-in in the form of a mini-HDMI cable. I think most people would want a way to hook up USB devices to it. A 40pin to USB hub (3-4 ports) would be really nice.
I think the power adapter for a reasonable price with a nice long cable would be an excellent start. 15V, 1.2A switching power supplies are cheap in China + wiring it up to the connector for $20-$25, I think you'd have no trouble selling those. As a bonus, if the adapter ALSO could take a 12V car adapter as input and not just 110-220V AC...well that's an easy sell right there!
Thanks!
verkion
Docking
Verkion,
I think using a USB car charger with the USB cable would work, wouldn't it? I haven't tried it though.
Anyway, if anyone gets hold of any info on the docking connector, pls let me know. I'll make it worth it!
Anil
verkion said:
If you can make a bunch of Power Adapters for it...that's be great. I've been trying to find the 40pin connector for a while now.
I don't think people need HDMI out on the cable, b/c that's built-in in the form of a mini-HDMI cable. I think most people would want a way to hook up USB devices to it. A 40pin to USB hub (3-4 ports) would be really nice.
I think the power adapter for a reasonable price with a nice long cable would be an excellent start. 15V, 1.2A switching power supplies are cheap in China + wiring it up to the connector for $20-$25, I think you'd have no trouble selling those. As a bonus, if the adapter ALSO could take a 12V car adapter as input and not just 110-220V AC...well that's an easy sell right there!
Thanks!
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope, standard car chargers are 5v usb spec.... the TF only starts to charge at 11v or so, IIRC.
xjarl said:
I have got the 40pin connector but don't know what can i do with it.. ummm.. I mean, What's the accessories will be hot? A cable integrated HDMI,USB3.0 and WLAN? Dose TF101 has a WLAN? I haven't open my TF to see..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you divulge your source for the connector?? I can make a GRIP of specialized cables connectors and docks. I'll post all tech info on comm from the 40 pin.
I have found a 40 pin connector but can't post a link as a new member. I think the offset between the two rows of pins is incorrect but may help with someone else finding the correct one. I'll contact the admin to see if I can post the link.
You may be able to find it from web 'alwaysinnovating' wiki/index.php/40-pin_connector
davebuk said:
I have found a 40 pin connector but can't post a link as a new member. I think the offset between the two rows of pins is incorrect but may help with someone else finding the correct one. I'll contact the admin to see if I can post the link.
You may be able to find it from web 'alwaysinnovating' wiki/index.php/40-pin_connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the link you're trying to share:
http://www.alwaysinnovating.com/wiki/index.php/40-pin_connector
(note: I've done nothing to confirm whether this is the right connector or in any way related to it myself, I'm just sharing the link to save somebody else the hassle of googling.)
That 40 pin connector doesn't have +15V lines. Hence the electrical layout might be a bit different than what's listed.
Thanks for posting the link. As AnTrans said, there is a good chance the pin out assignment listed on that site is NOT what the Asus uses but may point towards finding the correct connector.
AnTrans said:
That 40 pin connector doesn't have +15V lines. Hence the electrical layout might be a bit different than what's listed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The important part is it looks like he found the connector itself, and it seems to be available from some major US distributors. The rest is a matter of reverse engineering
pokey9000 said:
The important part is it looks like he found the connector itself, and it seems to be available from some major US distributors. The rest is a matter of reverse engineering
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong. Simply wrong.
Bob Smith42 said:
Wrong. Simply wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh? Care to explain?
pokey9000 said:
Oh? Care to explain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Start with this:
The connector on the TF, the bit that slides into the proprietary port, measures:
3.0mm x 18.5mm on outer dimensions.
Bob Smith42 said:
Start with this:
The connector on the TF, the bit that slides into the proprietary port, measures:
3.0mm x 18.5mm on outer dimensions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, how about this then? Too bad it has a 9 week lead time.
pokey9000 said:
Hmm, how about this then? Too bad it has a 9 week lead time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Edited: Yes you are right.
From the data sheet, also 2129261-1 will fit. The 3.3mm thick will fit into a receptacle that is 3.8mm thick. I think the pins are okay (might be wrong).
In *addition* to your choice, try this:
Mouser Part #: 571-2129261-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129261-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P PLUG, CRADLE MNT CHAMP DOCKING
===
UPDATE:
I edited my wrong post to reflect the correct information and reduce confusion. Great job pokey9000.
Bob Smith42 said:
No.
From the data sheet, only 2129261-1 will fit. The 3.3mm thick will fit, but *not* the 3.8mm thick. Also, I can not see the pins alignment, which could be wrong.
For outer dimensions (pins might be wrong), try this:
Mouser Part #: 571-2129261-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129261-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P PLUG, CRADLE MNT CHAMP DOCKING
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See the mfr's page here , particularly the "View Product Drawing" link. The dimensions of the plug are (excl. the latches) 18.5 x 3.1 x 7mm (7mm being the minimum start of the overmold). I don't have calipers on me right now, but the pins are on .3mm staggered centers, so the distance from an edge of pin 1 to the same edge of pin 40 is 11.7mm. I still think this looks like a winner.
pokey9000 said:
See the mfr's page here , particularly the "View Product Drawing" link. The dimensions of the plug are (excl. the latches) 18.5 x 3.1 x 7mm (7mm being the minimum start of the overmold). I don't have calipers on me right now, but the pins are on .3mm staggered centers, so the distance from an edge of pin 1 to the same edge of pin 40 is 11.7mm. I still think this looks like a winner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, I agree with you. I was wrong, looking at 3.8mm on the receptacle.
Both your part and my part are the correct outer dimensions. The differences only depend on what type of mount - board or cable.
Looking inside my ASUS cable with mag-glass the pins are staggered.
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
mgs991099a said:
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
j.kelly said:
When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
mgs991099a said:
I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
djspreewell17 said:
What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I started looking into it and realized that 5V /= 12V. I'm currently looking at using an old cigarette lighter adapters internals and wiring them into one of those fuse adapters (it'll convert the 12V down to 5V), then take the wires and hook them into a USB cable. I've got to do some measurements and all, so I'll respond back with some pictures of when I start the project. Should cost less than $20 and about an hour of time.
Website showing detail
Alright, I have finally done the project (just have to hook it up). This website shows all of the details. I did use an add-a-fuse instead, but it is essentially the same idea. I will be adding it into my car later today.
Someone asked help on our local forum about this and I thought it might also be of help here, so here goes my share.
If you are like me who wants to carry only a small cable for charging and data transfers, you'll find it hard to get your hands on a good micro USB charging/data cable. Buying micro USB charging/data cable for Samsung is tricky since the wiring can be different from the normal USB cable. There should be 5 pins on the micro end, but sometimes there are just 4. But Samsung cable uses only 4 pins that might have been rewired. I'm not sure whether only Samsung does this or the same can be said of the other brands. There are also micro USB cables being sold that does only charging and no data function, and vice versa.
I've grown tired of searching for a cheapo charging/data cable that doesn't deliver the function, so what I did was I bought micro USB to USB adapters instead and bought a normal female-to-male usb cable extender just in case the fragile cable wires get broken again they can be easily replaced. They get the job done. You can also use the other gender adapter and cable combo but using the same combo that I use enables you to charge and transfer data with just the adapter and without the cable in case the fragile cable gets damaged.
They charge the phone as fast as what the USB power brick provides and what the phone can accept at the same time. :victory:
This thread was opened with the intention to help others to easily find an almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo because not everyone has access to a cheap branded cable. (And sometimes even a branded cable does not guarantee both functions). This is a quicker guaranteed solution for those buying micro USB cable that has no way to test the cable they are purchasing, mostly those buying online or those buying impulsively.
The logic behind the "almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo" is that unlike micro USB cable, an extension cable guarantees that every pin has its own wire with no modifications, that's why it is called an extension cable. The micro USB adapter, guarantees the full conversion from micro USB to USB interface to have all pins connected properly, that's why it is called adapter/converter.
So, if you do not like the idea of the extended length that is protruding out of your micro USB slot, this thread is not for you and you are not obliged to use or try the setup in any way. The solution provided here is not perfect but a fully functional solution.
I hope this can help someone.
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No offense, but that is a seriously stupid idea. Do you have any idea the amount of leverage that contraption will put on the μUSB port? Hit that wrong or yank it too far and it will snap the port right off the board.
There is absolutely nothing special about any Samsung charger or cable. They use standard, straight-through A-B cables just like every other phone. The chargers themselves conform to industry standards, whereas + and - are on pins 1 and 4, and the data pins are tied together in order to trigger the phone into high current charge mode. The "B" end of a mini/micro USB does have 5 pins - the extra pin is for an ID resistor (referenced to ground), so the phone can identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock. There is no corresponding pin on the "A" end, and the lack of an ID resistor or the physical pin will have absolutely no effect on charging.
Taz420nj said:
No offense, but that is a seriously stupid idea. Do you have any idea the amount of leverage that contraption will put on the μUSB port? Hit that wrong or yank it too far and it will snap the port right off the board..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same goes for the charging flap. Anything that is applied too much force will break. I've been using it for almost a month now and everything is fine. It's just an alternative, maybe a short-term substitute for the oem usb cable if you want.
Taz420nj said:
There is absolutely nothing special about any Samsung charger or cable. They use standard, straight-through A-B cables just like every other phone. The chargers themselves conform to industry standards, whereas + and - are on pins 1 and 4, and the data pins are tied together in order to trigger the phone into high current charge mode. The "B" end of a mini/micro USB does have 5 pins - the extra pin is for an ID resistor (referenced to ground), so the phone can identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock. There is no corresponding pin on the "A" end, and the lack of an ID resistor or the physical pin will have absolutely no effect on charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And how would you explain the slow charging by other micro usb cables then when using the Samsung-bundled power brick? The usb cables work properly with other devices, other than Samsung. I have plenty of them, only 1 other cable works properly.
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s4-accessories/274965-samsung-s4s-micro-usb-standard-usb-cable-2.html
And no, Samsung bundles 4-pin cables. So the phone can't identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock?
I've never had any trouble with generic charging cables on any of my Samsung Galaxy phones. That adaptor looks useful for plugging in a memory stick though. Lol
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
My Kindle USB charger cable doesn't work for my S5. It just doesn't fit but all my other charges cables from my S3, Nexus 7 and of course my S5 cable work. A bit strange but I guess it is the problem of the Kindle cable? BTW the Kindle one works on my S5...
jopat said:
The same goes for the charging flap. Anything that is applied too much force will break. I've been using it for almost a month now and everything is fine. It's just an alternative, maybe a short-term substitute for the oem usb cable if you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course anything can be broken given enough force. But it takes far less force to break something when you have effectively quadrupled the length of the lever. The stock cable's plug is 1/2" long. That contraption is easily 2" long. That's the same reason you don't use a one-piece solid adapter to plug 1/4" headphones into the 1/8" jack on your phone. It's 6th grade science.
And how would you explain the slow charging by other micro usb cables then when using the Samsung-bundled power brick? The usb cables work properly with other devices, other than Samsung. I have plenty of them, only 1 other cable works properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering you are the only one to have this "problem", Mod Edit – Some content removed . USB is USB. That's the entire point of adhering to standards. There are no "special" or "rewired" cables for Samsung, nor does any current Samsung device (with the exception of the Tab2 10.1) require any proprietary cable or charger. If a device's connectors do not adhere to the published USB standards, then the USB name and logo can not be used under penalty of law. A company can use the technology in a non-standard configuration, but it must have a distinctly different connector and can not use the USB marks.
And no, Samsung bundles 4-pin cables. So the phone can't identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF are you talking about? The standard "A" side of ANY USB cable only has 4 pins. There is no such thing as a 5 pin standard "A". The μUSB JACK on the phone has all 5 pins (well, technically 10, since it is USB3.0, but the extras aren't pertinent). μUSB "B" end of a CABLE does not use the ID pin (pin 4), because it does not need to - so whether or not it is physically present in the plug end is moot, because even if it is there, it's not connected to anything. The only thing the ID pin is used for is for situations where the phone needs to know when a certain device is connected. If the ID pin is connected straight to ground, the phone knows that an OTG adapter is plugged in and it puts itself into host mode. If it sees a certain resistance to ground, it puts itself into either car mode or dock mode depending on what resistance it sees.
And for the record, most of the posters commenting in that thread you linked to over at AC are retards. Especially the OP, who claims to "know for certain" that the S3 uses a connection with reversed pins. Because just like EVERY OTHER PHONE WITH A μUSB PORT, the S3's jack follows the USB standard pinout.
---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ----------
AMoosa said:
I've never had any trouble with generic charging cables on any of my Samsung Galaxy phones. That adaptor looks useful for plugging in a memory stick though. Lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't work, because it's not an actual OTG adapter. It doesn't have the ID pin tied to ground in order to put the phone into host mode.
This made me LOL
But yes any A to Micro USB cable will work. However, if you use the provided cable that Samsung gives you it will charge quicker by using the extra USB3.0 plug.
But, my S4 charges just as fast as the standard OEM cable they provided when using my Galaxy S2 or any other quality USB A to Micro USB wire. This however is not true when using junk/cheap USB cables irregardless the USB plug ends. The wire quality is usually pants compared to other brands. Some of the cheap USB wires will even show a resistance on an ohms meter.
In the end, the OP is making a very complicated USB plug for their phone Just buy a quality USB cable from walmart ebay bestbuy etc
elesbb said:
But yes any A to Micro USB cable will work. However, if you use the provided cable that Samsung gives you it will charge quicker by using the extra USB3.0 plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but that's wrong*. The 3.0 plug only adds extra data pins. Power still runs through pins 1 and 5. It will charge faster if you use the provided CHARGER - because that outputs two amps, versus the 3/4 to one amp output by older/generic chargers. The S2/S3 came with one amp cube chargers, the S4/S5 came with a two amp. The ones you find at gas stations are generally 750mA to one amp. But it does not matter if you use a 2.0 or 3.0 cable to get that charge rate, because it is dependent on the charger, not the cable..
[* the 3.0 standard does call for higher power capability when connected to a computer port - the device can negotiate up to 900mA from the host while simultaneously transmitting data (USB2.0 specifies up to 500mA). However this is still lower than the power that is available from the supplied charger.]
As far as sourcing cables, you absolutely can't go wrong with Monoprice. They have the high quality cables with the glossy, hard plastic plug grips (just like what comes with Apple and high end Samsung products) for $3..
Taz420nj said:
LOL I just noticed that
RETARD changed the pics in the OP of which adapter and cable he kludged together - I guess in an attempt to make it look less idiotic.. However it's still stupid, because YOU CAN USE ANY A-TO-MICRO-B CABLE IN ANY LENGTH.
In case anyone's interested, this is what he had originally posted..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL
Those are not the pics I posted, you just posted your own pics. You're always trying too hard. :silly:
But, yes, I changed the pics because the pics are the opposite gender from what I have indicated that I bought. Nonetheless, they are the objects indicated as vice versa, which failed to register in the pea-size object inside that large cranium of yours.
so what I did was I bought micro USB to USB adapters instead and bought a normal female-to-male usb cable extender just in case the fragile cable wires get broken again they can be easily replaced. They get the job done. You can also use the other gender adapter and cable combo but using the same combo that I use enables you to charge and transfer data with just the adapter and without the cable in case the fragile cable gets damaged.
Taz420nj said:
I actually don't need to back up my "claim" (which it's not actually a "claim", it's a well-documented, globally recognized industry standard) - because you're posting all the evidence for me. You're just too stupid to realize it. Now please. After you impale your crotch on that rusty gate (you should do it multiple times just to be sure), go eat some kindergarten paste and play hopscotch with the rest of the retards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's because you can't, in any way. First, you don't have that capacity. Second, those " well-documented, globally recognized industry standard" is not for the "USB" that you re referring to, therefore they don't exist. "USB" is not the whole device or cable itself, but the receptacle & plug and how they will transmit power and data. They don't specify how the device should deliver them. In fact, you can attach another device in the cable between the USB ends.
Taz420nj said:
USB is an INDUSTRY STANDARD. That means in order for a manufacturer to be allowed to call a device "USB Certified", the manufacturer MUST ADHERE TO THE STANDARD'S POSTED SPECIFICATIONS. It does not matter whether the manufacturer chose to use a standard, mini, or micro USB port. It also does not matter if the manufacturer uses a dual-purpose port (such as a USB/eSATA hybrid port on a laptop) or proprietary port (such as Samsung's 11 pin Micro USB) - provided that the port is BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE (there's that obscure word again) - meaning that still adheres to the posted specifications for pinouts and connector dimensions for the USB standard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll say it once again, the USB standard is for the connectors. Anything beyond the connectors and the immediate wires connecting on the pins are not covered by the standard that you claim.
So, just for everyone's information, and since I am already tired of your continued spawning of nonsense and making others ignorant as you, I will explain everything in detail in layman's term. Although, I doubt that eenie weenie pea-size object in your cranium can comprehend them. But nonetheless, I will have maximum tolerance for the handicapped in this thread. Be sure not to post any blabbering anymore, because your ignorance is being broadcasted worldwide.
USB is a plug & socket standard, just like your power plug and power sockets. They have their own standards set by the governing bodies to ensure universality among electronic devices to ensure that they fit and function. Like the power plug, the USB has + and - wires, but with added wires for data transfer. The standard refers to the physical dimensions and positions of the plug and function of the pins, as well as the code classes, but anything beyond that other than the voltage are not covered by the usb standard. If they were also included in the same standard, there won't be innovation. It will be dictating something like a power plug can only be attached to an electric fan and cannot be used elsewhere. The wires inside are also not obliged by the standard to be present. Although there are 4 pins, they are not required to be all used and attached electric wires into. This is the reason why you can't say that all USB cables are the same and will function the same, and that especially applies to micro USB cables. They look the same but you will not know the difference until you use them or slice them open.
Taz420nj said:
However it's still stupid, because YOU CAN USE ANY A-TO-MICRO-B CABLE IN ANY LENGTH.
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For your statement that you keep on insisting, your tribe was obviously left out by civilization. For charging/data cable, which this thread aims to give alternative to, you need the correct micro USB cable, using just any micro USB cable that you come across won't guarantee that it will supply power for charging and do data transfer.
Regarding length, you cannot use just ANY LENGTH because the signal weakens after a certain length. You will need to attach a booster to maintain that transfer speed longer than that length.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Cabling
The USB 1.1 Standard specifies that a standard cable can have a maximum length of 5 meters with devices operating at Full Speed (12 Mbit/s), and a maximum length of 3 meters with devices operating at Low Speed (1.5 Mbit/s).
USB 2.0 provides for a maximum cable length of 5 meters for devices running at Hi Speed (480 Mbit/s). The primary reason for this limit is the maximum allowed round-trip delay of about 1.5 μs. If USB host commands are unanswered by the USB device within the allowed time, the host considers the command lost. When adding USB device response time, delays from the maximum number of hubs added to the delays from connecting cables, the maximum acceptable delay per cable amounts to 26 ns. The USB 2.0 specification requires that cable delay be less than 5.2 ns per meter (192 000 km/s, which is close to the maximum achievable transmission speed for standard copper wire).
The USB 3.0 standard does not directly specify a maximum cable length, requiring only that all cables meet an electrical specification: for copper cabling with AWG 26 wires the maximum practical length is 3 meters (9.8 ft).
This is, again, straight from wiki:
To reliably enable a charge-only feature, modern USB accessory peripherals now include charging cables that provide power connections to the host port but no data connections, and both home and vehicle charging docks are available that supply power from a converter device and do not include a host device and data pins, allowing any capable USB device to charge or operate from a standard USB cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Connector_types
This is particularly evident in most micro USB cables bundled with powerbanks. The powerbank requires only to supply power and it doesn't need data transfer. So, it is more logical to bundle data-less cable so that the material acquisition cost could be lowered. The opposite can said about older cellphones that are bundled with proprietary charging cables that have micro USB slots for data transfer. Most of their bundled USB cables do not have charging capabilities, although some can still be charged when plugged into the computer.
And also, this proves that USB cables do not provide the same current or amperage. And also proves that not all micro USB cables will charge your device at full speed due to different resistance which the caveman has still failed to answer. The OP provided visuals, so I'm hoping the caveman can at least recognize them. This is a factual data and not some blabbering blah-blah-blah from someone obviously left out by time.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2451375
vectron said:
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This thread was opened with the intention to help others to easily find an almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo alternative because not everyone has access to a cheap branded cable. (And sometimes even a branded cable does not guarantee both functions). This is a quicker guaranteed solution for those buying micro USB cable that has no way to test the cable they are purchasing, mostly those buying online or those buying impulsively.
The logic behind the "almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo" is that unlike micro USB cable, an extension cable guarantees that every pin has its own wire with no modifications, that's why it is called an extension cable. The micro USB adapter, guarantees the full conversion from micro USB to USB interface to have all pins connected properly, that's why it is called adapter/converter.
So, if you do not like the idea of the extended length that is protruding out of your micro USB slot, this thread is not for you and you are not obliged to use or try the setup in any way. The solution provided here is not perfect but a fully functional solution.
To avoid further trolling, this thread will not be updated any more nor any post will be made by the OP.
Oh my f*cking god it is amazing that someone can be as utterly stupid as you are and survive beyond puberty. Seriously, do you have any idea what a moron you sound like?
YOU HAVE NO CLUE WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT.
I find it absolutely ASTOUNDING that you are quoting sources that completely contradict your argument, and yet you claim them as evidence that you are right.
I was particularly amused by the fact that you quoted the wiki, but you don't seem to have read or understood what you quoted in the least. This is evidenced by the fact that you claim:
jopat said:
] Second, those " well-documented, globally recognized industry standard" is not for the "USB" that you re referring to, therefore they don't exist. "USB" is not the whole device or cable itself, but the receptacle & plug and how they will transmit power and data. They don't specify how the device should deliver them. In fact, you can attach another device in the cable between the USB ends.
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and
jopat said:
]I'll say it once again, the USB standard is for the connectors. Anything beyond the connectors and the immediate wires connecting on the pins are not covered by the standard that you claim.
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But if you had actually read the VERY FIRST LINE at the top of the wiki entry, it says:
Universal Serial Bus (USB) is an industry standard developed in the mid-1990s that defines the cables, connectors and communications protocols used in a bus for connection, communication, and power supply between computers and electronic devices
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It is not just about the "connectors and the immediate wires connecting the pins", the USB standard lays out EVERYTHING, from the connector dimensions, to the pinouts, to the cables, to the power transmission levels, to the data transfer. If a device does not comply with those standards, then it can not be legally called "USB Certified".
Game, set, match.
Mod Edit
Thread Closed
ronnie498
Forum Moderator
So I have a surface tablet (pro 3). I've been wanting to use it to send adb and fastboot commands to the pixel but whenever I plug the pixel to the usb port the pixel draws too much power and windows shuts the port off. Is there a way around this? Or has anyone found a similar issue?
I had the same problem with my 6p but I thought it was my unit. The usb port on the surface works perfectly with any other kind of device. From external hard drives, to usb peripherals.
Make sure you are using a compliant USB-A > C cable.
sturmeh said:
Make sure you are using a compliant USB-A > C cable.
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sure, how do i fing if a cable is "compliant?"
reinaldistic said:
sure, how do i fing if a cable is "compliant?"
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Does this issue happen with the cable that ships with the Google Pixel? (That cable is compliant.)
It's very hard to determine if a cable is compliant without measuring the resistor in it, so the best you can do is ensuring the cables come from a somewhat reputable source, there is also a few people reviewing usb c-a cables to determine their compliance for you, give it a Google.
sturmeh said:
Make sure you are using a compliant USB-A > C cable.
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sturmeh said:
Does this issue happen with the cable that ships with the Google Pixel? (That cable is compliant.)
It's very hard to determine if a cable is compliant without measuring the resistor in it, so the best you can do is ensuring the cables come from a somewhat reputable source, there is also a few people reviewing usb c-a cables to determine their compliance for you, give it a Google.
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i just tested the cable (it was hiding in my pile of exitement lol) and it doesn't have that issue. i do have experience with electronics and have a multimeter, what resistance am i looking for and in what pins?
reinaldistic said:
i just tested the cable (it was hiding in my pile of exitement lol) and it doesn't have that issue. i do have experience with electronics and have a multimeter, what resistance am i looking for and in what pins?
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Yeah sounds like you should stop using that cable immediately, it can potentially damage components if they are not protected from excessive power draw.
I'm not super familiar with the testing process, but a quick google came up with this: http://www.frank-durr.de/?p=234
You may also want to read up on https://plus.google.com/collection/0Vdov and his other pages.