While I've had many Android phones, this is the first phone that I decided to use a battery charging controller to regulate how my battery is charged. I just wanted to share my journey with others and encourage others to try this out if you are not already.
Although there are several different battery charging controllers out there (and more than one named "ACC" which makes it even more confusing) I decided to use the Advanced Charging Controller module developed by VR25. I choose this module because I felt it provided the most customization.
Step 1 - Installation
Installing the module is easy. It is listed in the Magisk repository. Simply browse the available modules and find the one titled, "Advanced Charging Controller (acc) created by VR25 @ XDA-developers". There are several ACC modules, so make sure you install the one by VR25 to follow this thread.
Magisk will flash the module and start it automatically. You don't even need to reboot, although it is the only way to clear the Magisk notification that the module will be started at the next reboot.
Step 2 - Changing the Charging Switch Setting
I found that the default charging switch setting (auto) does not work reliably with our phones. Therefore I would suggest changing it using the commands below. Personally I have choose option 2 (battery/charge_disable 0 1) but I listed all the options with the quirks that I have found with each one.
Step 2.1 - open your preferred command line app - I use Terminal Emulator.
Step 2.2 - type "su" and hit enter to gain root
Step 2.3 - type "acc -s s" and hit enter - this is the command that allows us to select another charging switch
Step 2.4 - type what number of the charging switch you want to use.
Here are the available charging switches and the issues I have found with them:
1) Automatic - this switch tries to cycle through the available switches until if find one that "works".
- Passes the ACC switch test (type "acc -t"): Yes
- Charges and discharges according to the cooldownratio: No - I found that the phone would charge anytime it was plugged in and below the Pause threshold. It did not seem to wait until the battery level was below the Resume threshold.
- Works with battery idle mode (the phone will pull power from the AC power and not the battery when the battery reaches the Pause threshold): Yes
- Begins charging when phone reaches Resume threshold: Yes
- Charging "chime" and battery icons correctly reflect if the phone is charging or discharging: ???
- Suffers from wakelock issues when phone is plugged in but not charging: It does have a "overheat_mitigation" wakelock when on the battery idle mode, but because the phone is not using the battery power, it doesn't effect battery life and therefore I don't concern myself with this issue.
- Other issues:
2) battery/charge_disable 0 1 :
- Passes the ACC switch test (type "acc -t"): Yes
- Charges and discharges according to the cooldownratio: Yes
- Works with battery idle mode (the phone will pull power from the AC power and not the battery when the battery reaches the Pause threshold): Yes
- Begins charging when phone reaches Resume threshold: Yes
- Charging "chime" and battery icons correctly reflect if the phone is charging or discharging: ???
- Suffers from wakelock issues when phone is plugged in but not charging: It does have a "overheat_mitigation" wakelock when on the battery idle mode, but because the phone is not using the battery power, it doesn't effect battery life and therefore I don't concern myself with this issue.
- Other issues:3) battery/input_suspend 0 1:
- Passes the ACC switch test (type "acc -t"): Yes
- Charges and discharges according to the cooldownratio: Yes
- Works with battery idle mode (the phone will pull power from the AC power and not the battery when the battery reaches the Pause threshold): No - phone begins discharging from battery when Pause threshold is reached but the phone is still plugged in
- Begins charging when phone reaches Resume threshold: Yes
- Charging "chime" and battery icons correctly reflect if the phone is charging or discharging: No - may show charging icon when phone is really discharging, especially during cooldownratio times and the chime doesn't always ring when charging resumes.
- Suffers from wakelock issues when phone is plugged in but not charging: No
- Other issues: The phone seems to follow the cooldown charge/discharge times even before reaching the cooldown threshold. I find the phone pausing for 10 seconds (my cool down ratio) when the batter level might be a 50% - long before the 60% cooldown threshold I have set in the config file.4) dc/input_suspend 0 1:
- Passes the ACC switch test (type "acc -t"): NO, so this switch doesn't work with ACC
- Charges and discharges according to the cooldownratio:
- Starts discharging when the phone reaches the Pause threshold:
- Begins charging when phone reaches Resume threshold:
- Charging "chime" and battery icons correctly reflect if the phone is charging or discharging:
- Suffers from wakelock issues when phone is plugged in but not charging:
- Other issues:5) battery/charge_control_limit 0 1:
- Passes the ACC switch test (type "acc -t"): NO, so this switch doesn't work with ACC
- Charges and discharges according to the cooldownratio:
- Starts discharging when the phone reaches the Pause threshold:
- Begins charging when phone reaches Resume threshold:
- Charging "chime" and battery icons correctly reflect if the phone is charging or discharging:
- Suffers from wakelock issues when phone is plugged in but not charging:
- Other issues:
Step 3 - Configuration
You can configure the ACC controller using a couple of different methods. You can do everything using command lines, you can use the beta ACC app (see note below), or you can edit a config file that ACC creates when it is installed. Personally I found that editing the config file was the quickest and easiest method to make general changes.
The ACC config file is found at /storage/emulated/0/acc The file is named "config.txt" You can open the file with a text editor. I personally use the app Root Explorer. I long click on the file name, and then press the three dot button in the upper right hand corner. Choose "Open in Text Editor" and the config file will open and allow changes to be made. Saving the file will automatically push the changes to ACC, you do not need to reboot or restart the ACC daemon for changes to take effect.
I won't go into a lot of detail about all of the different configuration options here as the developer's xda thread is the best place to get that type of information. But I will talk about the most basic setting - the "capacity" setting. It is the second setting listed in the config file and it should look something like "capacity=0, 60, 70-80". Here is a break down of what those numbers mean:
- The First Number (0): is battery level were the phone will shut off. The default setting of 0 means the phone will turn off when the battery level hits 0. Personally I don't want my battery completely draining, so I have it set at 5.
- The Second Number (60): is the battery level where the module starts it's "cool down" functionality. Cool down (listed as coolDownRatio in the config file) is where the phone will stop charging briefly and then restart charging. The default "cool down" setting is coolDownRatio=50/10 which means the phone will charge for 50 seconds, and then stop charging for 10 seconds before charging again for 50 seconds, etc, etc, etc. This is designed to keep the battery temps low. A battery with a charge level less than this number (60 in this example) will charge without pausing, but when the battery level gets to this number or above, the phone will charge and pause based on the coolDownRatio.
- The Third Number (70): is the "resume" value. If the phone's battery level is below this resume value, the phone will charge. If the battery level is at or above this resume value, the phone will not charge even while plugged in.
- The Fourth Number (80): is the "pause" value. This is the battery level where the phone will stop charging and should not charge above this value.
The default settings are set this way because research has shown that a phone's battery will last the longest with the least amount of battery capacity loss if it is charged to a max of 80% of the battery's capacity, and allowed to discharge just a small amount (10%) before being charged again. I realize this goes against the old "wives tale" that our phone's batteries have a very limited number of charges and it is best to limit the number of charges by only charging the phone when it gets to a low level. This is not true in actual battery performance however and if you charge like this, you are actually decreasing your battery's life expectancy and performance.
Obviously the default settings may not be the best setting for you. The default settings are probably only practical for a device that is plugged in 100% of the time. Personally I have changed my capacity setting to capacity=5, 60, 70-90. This means my phone will turn off when the battery level reaches 5% (something it has never dropped to yet), it is charged to a max of 90% and will discharge to 70% before charging again, and the cooldown charging cycling starts when the battery is 60% or higher. Obviously I'm not on my charger all the time, so it is very common for my battery to drop below 70%. However, if the battery is below 70% and I have a charger at my disposal, I am going to charge the phone back to 90% rather than let it the battery levels continue to fall.
Final Notes and Misc Thoughts
There are lots of other options and commands you can use in ACC. Feel free to share any changes you like to make, or post if you are having problems getting the module to work as expected on the 3a. I hope this helps some people feel give the module a try.
There is an ACC app that is available now that allows you to control some of the settings from a nice GUI. I personally did not like using it as I found it would overwrite settings in the config file that I was not intending to be changed.
There is an ACC telegram group if you want to join and have direct communication with the developer and others.
Thanks to @jellopuddingstick for educating me on what the battery idle mode does and why it is beneficial to have it working!
sic0048 said:
I just wanted to share my journey with others and encourage others to try this out if you are not already.
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Was doing the same research when this popped up -- great job!
Can you discuss more on what unintended settings were overwritten by the app....
Also, thoughts have seem to have standardized now to lop off 40% of usuable capacity by having the battery charge btw 20-80% to extend life, such as... "capacity=20, 60, 70-80".
How were the defaults for ACC set and why have you chosen otherwise?
duh1 said:
Was doing the same research when this popped up -- great job!
Can you discuss more on what unintended settings were overwritten by the app....
Also, thoughts have seem to have standardized now to lop off 40% of usuable capacity by having the battery charge btw 20-80% to extend life, such as... "capacity=20, 60, 70-80".
How were the defaults for ACC set and why have you chosen otherwise?
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Click to collapse
The app works by writing to the normal config file. But it also has three profiles loaded into memory automatically when you install it. This makes it very easy to press on one of the other profiles by accident and totally change your settings. I eventually deleted all the "extra" profiles, but the charging switch isn't changeable via the app either (it seems like it defaults to auto) so the app will overwrite that setting back to auto if you aren't paying attention.
In the long run I found that using the config file was extremely easy and I found myself having the check the config file anytime I used the app to make sure it wasn't changing unintended settings, so I decided to remove the app and just use the config file.
As far as capacity, I decided to run 5, 60, 70-90. I think it is a good compromise between having a decent amount of capacity available and also not charging the phone to 100% all the time. I could probably get away with a limit of 80 or 85, but ultimately decided on 90. I do try to charge my phone when it hits 70 or below if I have a charger available vs waiting to do a larger/longer single charge.
sic0048 said:
I do try to charge my phone when it hits 70 or below if I have a charger available vs waiting to do a larger/longer single charge.
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Don't you think 70 is too high to begin charging just to bring it back to 90. Doesn't number of charge cycles kill battery life as much as heat and fast rate charging?
Any good apps you like that intuitively monitor battery health, besides just stats and charts, that does it like apple, as a percent of remaining chargeable capacity?
Btw OT question, looking to move over my wifi connections from the previous phone and can't find the wpa_supplicant.conf file in /data/misc/wifi in the 3a. No reference online mentions that it's been moved. Any idea where they're hiding it now? Thx...
duh1 said:
Don't you think 70 is too high to begin charging just to bring it back to 90. Doesn't number of charge cycles kill battery life as much as heat and fast rate charging?
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According to this research (https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries/), the more your battery discharges, the fewer discharge cycles it will survive before really negatively effecting battery performance. So discharging your phone just 10% might give you 6000 discharge cycles, while discharging your phone 60% might reduce these discharge cycles by 90%.
Obviously I have to rely on other people's research as there is no way I can adequately test this myself. But I do trust this research as accurate. I know with other phones I've had where I did not try to control the charging system I have had to replace the batteries with pretty regular occurrence. But I would leave the phone on the charger overnight (not a good thing for battery life) and try to discharge the battery a lot before charging it back again (also not a good thing for battery life). That's why I decided to finally look into using a charging controller like ACC with this new phone.
duh1 said:
Any good apps you like that intuitively monitor battery health, besides just stats and charts, that does it like apple, as a percent of remaining chargeable capacity?
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I've been using the ExperimentalX helper app to track battery usage. (You don't need to use their kernel to use the helper app). I like it because it breaks the battery usage stats into two parts: when the screen is on, and when the screen is off, but it doesn't attempt to give a percent of remaining chargeable capacity. I'm not aware of an app that does that (although I too would be interested to know if such and app exists).
duh1 said:
Btw OT question, looking to move over my wifi connections from the previous phone and can't find the wpa_supplicant.conf file in /data/misc/wifi in the 3a. No reference online mentions that it's been moved. Any idea where they're hiding it now? Thx...
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Click to collapse
I think the info you are looking for is now stored at /data/misc/wifi/WifiConfigStore.xml.
As I use my phone more, I realize that none of the charging switches seem to work 100% of the time as expected. I'll continue to do trial and error tests, but please share if you find a switch that works consistently.
I've continued to edit my original post to provide as much information about the different charging switches and the issues I see with each one. Hopefully it is easy to understand.
I still find myself defaulting to the 3rd charging switch option and while it can act a little erratic sometimes, it does work normally most of the time.
Is it possible to disable/bypass the cool down period?
creeve4 said:
Is it possible to disable/bypass the cool down period?
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The default setting is for it to be turned off I believe. Look in the config file for "coolDownRatio=" and see if it is blank. If it is not, you can remove everything after the equal sign.
Another way to do it is set the cooldown threshold number to be equal or higher than your "pause" threshold. So you might set this as "capacity=5, 100, 70-90". The 100 represents the value at which the cooldown process would start, which is higher than the pause threshold (at 90 in this example) and therefore would never kick in.
All this being said, I find that the #3 switch option seems to allow the cooldown pause/charge process to start below the set cooldown threshold. I have my cooldown threshold set at 60, yet find the phone pausing and charging at battery levels below this threshold. This should not be happening, but is something I can live with, so I haven't bothered to follow up with it.
After several more weeks of use, I've updated the initial post again. I found some quirks with the "automatic" charging switch, so I have gone back to selecting charging switch option 2 (battery/charge_disable 0 1).
Great job!
May I ask you whick kernel you are using for "battery idle mode" support? It should not be supported on stock kernel.
Thanks
Related
So, for a long time reading the forum and asking a question along the way, why I have so quickly battery discharging on my phone, I came across an interesting thought: "and from what I actually compare?. someone wrote about 5% per night, someone love to confess on the tab "Journal of the battery and it shows that he is the difference between" running "and"phone on "0.5%. but what is a night (for me it's 8 hours for someone 5). which network who have (GSM or 3G)? Also, we are constantly being developed and modified ROMs and kernels, which also constantly featured the words "lowered energy consumption."
And how do you actually compared the energy consumption of the old firmware to new. usually it sounds like "on the old firmware, I charge the phone every day, and now I charge every 2 days." but we don’t know details of how actively you used options of your phone on the old version, and how use now "(for me, For example the first 3 weeks after buying the phone had lived only one days, but now 2-3 days. but not because the new firmware, but because I'm tired of constantly digging through the phone settings and install the different soft, thus discharging it).
So, our challenge is to develop an algorithm (and in the future opportunities programs), as can be correctly and objectively compare the power consumption of our devices. That at least from the transition to the firmware to the firmware, from one kernels to another to be sure that the phone will not live less than before. Search for programs of this kind I have not been successful, can someone tell me if he knows?
actually look to you for ideas, how best to develop an algorithm testing the phone, and simultaneously bring your own.
then everything will be set out with respect to the software part, because hardware is not subject to us
1. So, first of all we need to start with any initial data. Having read all the threads about power consumption, I have come to the conclusion that the original data should include the following:
- Do wipe battery stat. We fully discharge the phone till shutdown and charge it in off state. after the device is fully charged, unplug it from the charging device and do wipe batter stat from the recovery menu
- To make the calibration of the battery you need to discharge and completely charge in turned off state the device at least 3 times
Here is one of the toughest parts, considering the long battery charging our phones. charging off-state means 4 hours of losing connection. and we need to do it 4 times. One discharge-charge cycle for a complete calibration system, as I understood , is not enough.
all the widgets and programs that can perform any action to in background must be disabled.
well, and then discharges our apparatus up to 95% in quiet mode, to give the battery a little bit cool, and eliminate trouble with 99-98-97% and you can begin testing.
2. Measurement tool. I would have chosen for this purpose, program or Battery Monitor Widget (she effects on discharging battery, but it writes logs, which can be tracked over time the battery status in percentage and millivolts) or JuicePlotter (don’t have logs. We have to extract data from the graphs that it constructs). JuicePlotter showed the best result in power consumption while the CPU time drain more than BatteryMonitorWidget - here's the first interesting fact. Now I’m testing these programs repeatedly to confirm this effect
3. In order to reduce measurement error the device must be discharged at least 20% of one test. or better at 30%. then + / -1% in the testing will not be particularly significant. That why testing process will be long and tedious.
4. In order to understand the power consumption of device in general, you should at least try to understand and share the power consumption of its individual components:
5. power consumption of the screen. For this purpose you can use the widget to extend controls, where you can turn the screen on constantly. And choose any standard wallpaper with middle brightness. we need to measure how much battery discharging for 3 hours the screen on. for small, medium and very high brightness, respectively. you can check consumption on the automatic brightness too. is believed that the turning on an automatic brightness strongly discharge the device..
6. power consumption of the file system. In the good we ought to write a program that creates a file in a loop on the internal flash drive, and anything he writes and deletes the file. Repeat the loop few thousand times to the total time was about 2-3 hours. but until there is no such a program, you can simply copy the file size of 2-3 gigabytes of internal memory with a program such as ES Explorer. In this case, the screen must be enabled to minimum brightness (since we already know how much the phone is discharged from simply turn on the screen) to control the copy process and accordingly the percentage of discharge.
7. Estimation of consumption of the processor. To do this, too, we can write a program that would do any arithmetic operations within an hour of time. But here we get the maximum load, therefore the maximum power of the processor. and it is unlikely it will be different from the firmware to the firmware . But our processor is also able to reduce the frequency and consequently reduce power consumption. And here I think there is much to improve the software. Therefore, must be differences from firmware to firmware. And the best test for this, I think, show any video on device, it loads processor to 30% on average (better view a videoconcert, so there isn’t quite boring) for one hour and thus measure how much discharge our batteries from this view .
8. Estimation of Wi-fi. Then the test can serve up any file copy from PC (connected through wires to an access point, so this segment was not the brakes) to our unit. Since the maximum speed that I managed to squeeze out of the standard N on my Captivate is 0,8 MB / sec I think copying the file size of 2GB will be enough to discharge our device is not less than 20% battery. copy can be perform using the same ES Explorer
9. Rated power consumption in standby mode. here it must enable the network only GSM. turn off the wi-fi and bluetooth. the screen went off and did not touch the machine for 8 hours. Better course would be 24 hours, but I think hardly anyone will be able to perform such a test
Actually look to you for your suggestions and additions, as can be realized by comparing energy consumption of our devices.
from the general collective thoughts we can open thread with algorithm, where you can write your test results according to the algorithm ... and make any conclusions.
Since we have better battery life on Android r169 version thanks to our devs i'm going to post tips n tricks for a even better battery life
1. Use "GSM auto (PRL) to save more juice while still connecting through 3G
- in the phone setting>wireless and network>MobileNetwork>NetworkMode
we are only allow to choose GSM only/ WCDMA / Auto between two
- but if you use type "*#*#4636#*#*" to phone Information, you can choose more type of networkmode. It is claimed that choose "GSM auto (PRL)" allow you to save more battery (cell standby) while allow you to connect to 3G network.
-there is one more setting which you can change:click settings(windows logo)>select radio band and change it according to your needs
- Please provide feedback on this. Thanks
2. Use AutoKiller Memory Optimizer
- This tool is different from other app killer
- It fine tunes android systems inner memory manager to keep your device fast over time.
- As a side effect it also lowers battery consumption.
- At certain free memory level (e.g. 250mb), the android os will automatically close those apps not in use (according to original android os logic)
3.Use Autostart
- Instead of closing them, it would be better if we don't let the app start from the begining
- You can choose to disable those app that u feel unnessary, so that they will not run during your phone startup
4. Check your Battery Consumption
- Download "Current Widget" or "battery monitoring widget" from market
- these apps will monitor your battery usage and recoded in a log file
- This is the normal consumption rate (varied across ROM, kernel and CPUI frequency and other factors)
credits:XDA
to be continued....
Tips
General Lithium-Ion Battery (LIB) Usage:
• Discharging your LIB fully (or less than 2.4 Volt per cell) is bad for the battery. Every time you do that, it can be said that small part of your battery (some cells) dies (they forever lose their charge). Do not store your batteries depleted, there's a high chance they will die completely or will become very "weak".
• You cannot restore bad LIBs by overloading/heating/praying. You gotta go buy a new one. They DO degrade overtime, some cells naturally lose the ability to gain/give electricity.
• Although it is said that LIBs do not have memory, it's not entirely true. LIBs have gauges that monitor performance of cells, and if you do a lot of small charges, it won't let those gauges to monitor a full battery potential, causing an invalid indication of charge level. A complete charge/discharge should be made when battery capacity seems reduced, that will calibrate gauges and they will provide your phone with correct charge level status. A full charge/discharge cycle should be done every 30 (or so) partial charges.
• LIBs have a shelf-life. Do not buy them to store them. Use them early, use them often, they will die whether you use them or not. Do not buy LIBs to use them in 6 months/year/etc, buy them right before actually using them.
• LIBs have short lives (in comparison to NiCa batteries, etc). You should expect to buy a new battery in 2-3 years after being manufactured. It is caused by internal oxidation and there's nothing you can do to stop or prevent that.
• Worst LIB treatment is to keep it at 100% charge level at high temperature (think laptop/phone under direct sunlight, like car dashboard).
• Best LIB treatment, or LIBs "favorite" charge level - 40%. That's also the usual charge level you buy them with.
• LIBs don't like heat. For example, while always at 100%, typical LIB in a laptop, at temperatures of 25C (77F) will lose 20% (twenty percent!) of full capacity per year. That capacity loss is reduced to 6% (six percent) at 0C (32F), and increased to 35% loss at 40C (104F). So, keep them cool (LIBs like fridges), don't let your devices sit in the sun or overheat at charge. Also, keep in mind that while in use, battery will be significantly hotter than phone/outside environment.
• LIBs like frequent partial charges/discharges more than they like full charges/discharges.
General Android power usage advice from google:
• Although this part is somewhat controversial, they do recommend having a complete, full FIRST charge to be made. If time allows, a preferred time for the first charge is 12 hours. This may have more to do with the OS than the battery.
• Battery on a Android device, in average, will last about a full day with normal use (some videos, mail, calls). That's what you should kind-of expect.
• Speaking in averages, "idling" 3G/EDGE connection (when phone is sleeping and no data is transferred through 3G), drains almost no energy. Just a little more than having 3G/EDGE radio off completely. So when no apps are using 3G, you don't need to keep it off.
• Same goes to WiFi connection - although it's on, if there is no data flowing through it, it uses almost no energy.
• At full throughput (100% data flow), EDGE is using more energy than 3G. In average, 3G is more energy-efficient than EDGE.
• WiFi is using more energy than 3G (when both are at 100% use), but since it transfers files much faster and then goes to "sleep", it's actually recommended to use WiFi whenever possible. Since it'll "sleep" more often than 3G, overall it will use much less battery than using 3G.
• Some bad apps or widgets can use android's "WakeLock", keeping CPU at 100%, screen always-on, or both. I myself have encountered such widget (I won't mention the name, it's in the market) that used a WakeLock to keep CPU spun-up at 100% all the time. That makes a huge impact on battery life. My advice - use a CPU profiling app to monitor the CPU - make sure that CPU slows down by itself when it's not used. So, beware of such widgets/apps. To check for CPU cycles, many recommend OSMonitor (free from market, install it, go to options, sort by "Load" in descending order. It'll give you "busiest" processes at the top). At rest you should be getting about 10-20% for OSMonitor itself, and 1-10% Android System. At rest, everything else should be 0-1%.
• Android slows down CPU when not in use by itself, as a built-in feature. Apps that throttle/change CPU frequency, are not necessarily needed.
Sources:
Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery
BatteryUniversity - http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-34.htm
Google IO Conference 2009 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUemfrKe65c
Electropaedia - http://www.mpoweruk.com/life.htm
this one too
this is very useful information, thx a lot!
Sorry Tzacapaca, but I do not understand where I have to type the code in order to have access to other network modes
Could you clarify?
THX
doublej4473 said:
Sorry Tzacapaca, but I do not understand where I have to type the code in order to have access to other network modes
Could you clarify?
THX
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Call this number with the phone dialer
Very good summary, thanks
I will definitely come back to read again and try in this way extend battery life.
Thnx, great tips to read !
Standard battery Capacity: 1200 mAh
HTC HD Mini have a standard battery Capacity: 1200 mAh.
When the battery loses capacity and you want to replace it, consider that there are batteries in the market for the HTC HD Mini with 1700 mAh Capacity, which would be logical to give a day or two extra pleasure
15MA1L said:
HTC HD Mini have a standard battery Capacity: 1200 mAh.
When the battery loses capacity and you want to replace it, consider that there are batteries in the market for the HTC HD Mini with 1700 mAh Capacity, which would be logical to give a day or two extra pleasure
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I still like and need my phone so I wouldn't trust those batteries
I would better get an emergency recharge which can charge my phone on the go
Edit: here is one http://www.phonesuit.com/primo-cube-battery-pack-for-android-phones/
hi how do i send a log to show my battery level? its draining way to fast,temperature is 38.8 is that normal?
with the battery moniter widget temperature is fluctuating from 35.5 to 38,stabilising to just over 35.0,also says 190mA in top left for battery indicater
BATFINK74 said:
hi how do i send a log to show my battery level? its draining way to fast,temperature is 38.8 is that normal?
with the battery moniter widget temperature is fluctuating from 35.5 to 38,stabilising to just over 35.0,also says 190mA in top left for battery indicater
Click to expand...
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download current widget and enable log file,right now i have 32.5 C on 100% battery level
tzacapaca said:
download current widget and enable log file,right now i have 32.5 C on 100% battery level
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thanks dude,can i post log file results here?
BATFINK74 said:
thanks dude,can i post log file results here?
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Click to collapse
sure
...
battery history
hi heres my battery history,is there any clue in here as to why its draining so fast?
also upload current widget log
BATFINK74 said:
hi heres my battery history,is there any clue in here as to why its draining so fast?
also upload current widget log
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hi,tell me around when phone was in standby so i can figure out
anyway so far it looks bad :O
also i have some Q's :
do you have set brightness on auto in Android or on WM?
is it a fresh install of Android?
did you install apps after that?if yes,which?
do you have GPS on on droid or on wm?
With "CurrentWidget" you can also log applications which are running on background. Then it should be easier to find out cause of battery drain. Also don't forget to write about your current settings ...
tzacapaca said:
hi,tell me around when phone was in standby so i can figure out
anyway so far it looks bad :O
also i have some Q's :
do you have set brightness on auto in Android or on WM?
is it a fresh install of Android?
did you install apps after that?if yes,which?
do you have GPS on on droid or on wm?
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hi thanks for replying
i have brightness turned down in android,havent touched in winmo
yes its a fresh install
iv installed angry birds rio,a 3d game,zedge,ebay and sky sports apps from market place
gprs is always on in both
my device is currently in sleep mode,will upload a fresh log to show results for sleep mode
For the nexus s 4G , just put brightness on low and turn of background data
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using XDA App
As some of you have been complaining about your Infinity's poor battery life, I thought we should start a thread on getting more out of its battery. I invite you all to share your experiences, hopefully we could come to sth helpful together.
Perhaps when the development's carried on further by more XDA developers, we can split this to stock ROM and custom ROMs, as probably the latter will have more of these already included.
1. Arguably full charge and discharge does nothing good on modern Li-Ion batteries and it's rather advisable to keep it balanced - discharge a little, don't push it with charging all the time (however in case of the Infinity, as with many other devices, the charger will just stop consuming energy after [almost] fully charging your device). There is one reason for doing a few full discharges and charges however - so that the battery monitoring apps/widgets can learn more about your battery's life and power consumption.
2. Monitor your battery life and monitor it wisely (don't use power-consuming apps and widgets). I personally like Battery Monitor Widget, as it gives you mA and % / hour (either drain or charge), which is pretty cool, as you can see how much your usage exhausts your battery in real time. This way I've found out that switching the WiFi off while reading books actually gives me battery drain closer to 10%/h than 15%/h etc. You can see some other in this apps thread. Try different apps and see what fits you best. Don't rely on system battery usage stats, see what other apps show us and what apps and processes drain the most of your battery, show most wakelocks, etc.
3. Use as low power mode as you need (administered most easily through ASUS/Android notification bar on the bottom of your screen). There are three power modes:
power-saving (keeps your CPU at 1 GHz according to some apps, 500 MHz according to others) <- can give you up to 2 additional hours
balanced (keeps your CPU at 1,5 GHz)
normal / performance (keeps your CPU at the highest speed - in stock kernel 1,7 GHz for the 1st core and 1,6 for the others)
You have to try these for yourself. Most games run well on balanced, but may sometimes need the performance mode (keep in mind that overheating your CPU and GPU may cause the clocks to actually slow down). You may also find yourself happy with the power-saving mode, which really helps your battery to last longer, but I've noticed issues with some apps while running it (problems with pdf rendering, for example), as it probably changes more than just the CPU clock speed, but also the system behaviour. I hardly ever leave the balanced mode, mostly when curious about benchmark results
There are also different CPU governors in Android/Linux kernel, which you can change if you are rooted, but perhaps leaving the default "interactive" one on should serve you well (you can also try "conservative", but it has been argued it doesn't save your battery so well in the long run).
(if rooted) You can also use CPU management apps like SetCPU, create your custom profiles or use the default ones according to your needs (for example ).
4. In ASUS setttings switch on both power-saving options at the very bottom of the list (WiFi and dock deep sleep [the former is the same as choosing "never" in WiFi advanced settings]).
5. Keep the screen brightness as low, as you can. It's better to adjust it manually through the notifications bar or a widget than to switch auto-brightness on (some recommend LUX app, personally I had problems with it trying to outsmart me when I was doing some manual changes). I like to keep it around 30-40% indoors during the day and 0-10% at night.
6. Switch WiFi off when you don't need it, unless you need it on constantly.
For me, it sometimes also helps organise my work too, when I don't get constant notifications or when I'm not eager to browse the web all the time, when just reading something and taking notes.
7a) (if rooted) Make your device fall into really deep sleep...
Add these to your build.prop file (see the thread on tweaking):
ro.ril.disable.power.collapse=0
pm.sleep_mode=1
7b) ...and make it scan for available WiFi networks less often, for example every 180 seconds (same as above):
wifi.supplicant_scan_interval=180
8. (if rooted) Switch off all the apps you don't need that auto-start on boot with a program like System Tuner.
(f not rooted) Use auto-killer for the apps you don't need (if rooted you can do the above two together as well).
You can also deactivate unused apps (settings -> apps -> [select app] -> deactivate). Remove bloatware, too (see the first few posts).
9. Adjust your minfree values, so the low level system task killer will take care of the apps running in the background for you (see the thread on tweaking). You can try with different settings and see what's better for you. Some apps drain your battery life even when you don't use them, while others don't and it's better to leave them in the memory than run them all over again every time. Do some tests and see what's best for you, if you have time for it.
10. Switch auto-syncing apps to lower values when possible (sometimes PUSH is better, sometimes worse for your battery life).
11. Keep it simple. Too many funky animations, floating wallpapers, lots of nice widgets will make your battery drain really fast.
12. Try different custom launchers, you can set more UI behaviour rules in these (see this apps thread).
13. Use a dark wallpaper and dark themes / night reading modes (see why).
PS JuiceDefender reported to having disabled deep sleep, so stay away if possible.
Hotmail app has been said to trigger wakelocks, while overriding system wifi sleep when screen is off, so keep that in mind if you want better battery life over constant e-mail syncing.
Hit [THANKS] if it helps.
First of all, thanks to d14b0ll0s for yet another great write up. I am one of those concerned with the battery life of the Infinity. Though some review says it got up to 9-9.5 hours with BALANCED mode I believe is the mistake. By using Power save mode, I think we can potentially get to that level but still hard.
My system is NOT rooted, but I have noticed significant change in my battery life so far with following:
1. Balanced Mode to Power Save mode.
This gets me like extra 2 hours or so. WIthout this change, 5-6 hours for my usage and with this it goes up to 7-8 hours screen time.
2. Under Wi-Fi Setting change Use wifi during sleep mode (mine is in Japanese so exact wording may be different) to never. Default setting was always. Prior to this change, I lost quite bit overnight unplugged; however, after the change it loses negligible amount.
Now rather than these, I am trying to play around with Juice Defender, which was recommended by d14b0ll0s in best application list he created. I have initially downloaded Juice Defender Free edition, and noticed may be minimal gain over #1 already instituted. But concept was great. So I ended up purchasing Ultimate edition, which allows us to control when to turn of WIFI per individual application based without Root i.e. while reading PDF I don't think I need WIFI connection.
https://play.google.com/store/search?q=juice+defender&c=apps.
I am still tweaking and playing with Juice Defender, but I am certain without change in #1,#2 (which are actually taken care by Juice Defender in its own way), I can gain same battery life and my hope/guess is I can get even more battery life.
So in conclusion, for those not rooted try Juice Defender (at least free version). I will let you all know how the ultimate version does in next couple days.
Thanks for this! ^^ Post 1 updated.
Have you noticed what power-saving mode changes apart from CPU (& GPU?) clock speed? Does it change auto-sync settings or unload some modules? I'm not using it, as it is too slow for me to render big pdfs consisting of scanned jpgs. But when I'm reading them with WiFi off on balanced, I normally get 9.9% drain per hour according to Battery Monitor Widget, which even with some other things that I do from time to time and some additional rendering when opening new files should give me about 9 hours on a single charge. Browsing over WiFi gives me about 7.
The Wi-Fi settings you mentioned are the same as WiFi power-saving settings on the bottom of ASUS setting list, but I've clarified that in post 1 now.
I'm happy JuiceDefender helped you, it's good to advertise it here. I'm adding the info about your post apart from the link to the list of apps.
Thanks
I would also add that it's good the deactivate unused apps/widgets (settings -> apps -> "select app" -> deactivate)
it's only possible for apps which cannot be uninstalled
Good point! ^ Added (-> p. 8).
Mine will be here this weekend.
Thanks d14b0ll0s
Look very useful! I'm about to try.
I think the standby time is awesome. Wifi off, power save mode enabled and left the tablet over night right after full charged battery w/o dock. After 10h still 100%.
Ali I Hagen said:
I think the standby time is awesome. Wifi off, power save mode enabled and left the tablet over night right after full charged battery w/o dock. After 10h still 100%.
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Click to collapse
#nice
The system measuring system isn't exact, and early on so are all the indicators, so don't rely on it too heavily. There may be a variance of 1-3% and a lot more in the usage indicators. Try different battery / apps widgets and compare the results.
Anyway, deep sleep is nice indeed. It normally drains about 0.2% (-0,5%) per hour, mine is now 98% after the night off the charger and responding to a few e-mails in bed
Thanks for the info, it's appreciated.
Antutu's Battery Saver worked great on my 101, I'm observing how it will regulate the power drain on my 700. Hopefully it will keep the back of the tab cool as well.
i think the problem is when you have wifi on!
Ali I Hagen said:
I think the standby time is awesome. Wifi off, power save mode enabled and left the tablet over night right after full charged battery w/o dock. After 10h still 100%.
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Click to collapse
this is good when you have wifi off. however, when you have the wifi on, it shows 80% wifi and 20% screen consumed by battery. you can stop network access by disabling wifi from Asus customized settings and also in wifi setting, you can keep wifi on during sleep to NEVER. this helps a lot..
Stock battery (usage) stats are not relevant, use other battery apps or widgets for that.
I've heard good things about AnTuTu's bat.sav., but also that it doesn't let you have more insight into what it's actually doing, so JuiceDefender seems a better option in that matter.
d14b0ll0s:
Do you know the specific voltage setting / configurations coming out of the usb line?
Is it 16V and how does it distinguish between 16V and 5V on the single USB cable.
For example does the voltage cable go on different lines for 16V and 5V for the TF700?
Or is it 16/5V dual switchable on the same power cable?
I'm asking this is because there's interest to charge the tablet by using alternative methods such as mobile battery with 16V setting.
If so, then does a DC to USB cable be suffice for the job? Or is the cable wired differently as proprietary ASUS?
Thanks!
Sorry, I wouldn't know that. There some ppl here that are doing some testing with the batteries and hardware, perhaps the_kreature or MartyHulskemper could know something. You should post it as a thread in Q&A too.
Redefined301 said:
d14b0ll0s:
Do you know the specific voltage setting / configurations coming out of the usb line?
Is it 16V and how does it distinguish between 16V and 5V on the single USB cable.
For example does the voltage cable go on different lines for 16V and 5V for the TF700?
Or is it 16/5V dual switchable on the same power cable?
I'm asking this is because there's interest to charge the tablet by using alternative methods such as mobile battery with 16V setting.
If so, then does a DC to USB cable be suffice for the job? Or is the cable wired differently as proprietary ASUS?
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Click to collapse
First of all, the charger gives 15V, not 16V. Avoid giving your tablet too much voltage as that can kill it...
Secondly, the included cable is a USB 3.0 cable and therefore has 5 extra pins (you can see them if you look straight into the USB plug). These extra pins are used to get 15V from the charger. I don't know exactly how that works, but I guess the tablet tells the charger it wants 15V over the power lines (same power lines as 5V) rather than the charger giving 15V over these extra pins (because that could be devastating to other USB 3.0 gadgets). This is why the tablet won't charge if you insert an old (USB 1.0 or 2.0) extension cable between the charger and the tablet.
Hey I'm running with wifi on during sleep and I seem to get great battery performance (2% loss over 11 hr standby). No build.pro tweaks so no deep asleep our anything like that. I'm wondering if anyone else has gotten similar performance?
I thought it was interesting because the results were the opposite on my tf300t, and my usage pattern hasn't changed much between the two devices.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T
watwat1234 said:
Hey I'm running with wifi on during sleep and I seem to get great battery performance (2% loss over 11 hr standby). No build.pro tweaks so no deep asleep our anything like that. I'm wondering if anyone else has gotten similar performance?
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Same here. Battery life on deep sleep with WLAN is great!
But I think the Infinity needs a lot of power while reading news, tapatalk, Reader HD..
Not more than 4 hours Screen On Time!
And that with balanced mode and 50% brightness.
Any problems with the fifth companion core?
PS: Is there an app which shows the activity of the different cores?
FAbi
Gesendet von meinem ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T mit Tapatalk 2
this is crazy, i got my tablet on monday, used it about 3-4 hours restoring all my apps and signing in to everything, and i havent used it much since but today, i'm still at 76%, havent plugged it in it or docked it. I also forgot to mention my dad played with it a bit also...prob about 1 hour
I recently noticed after the latest update excessive battery drain as seen in screenshots posted below. I have tried a factory reset and then unlocked bootloader to root and added greenify to try help save my battery. Does anyone have any tips on what else to try?
Have you tried to figure out what the Miscellaneous drain is? At least on my tablet I don't have that category in battery usage.
MidgetMob said:
Have you tried to figure out what the Miscellaneous drain is? At least on my tablet I don't have that category in battery usage.
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Miscellaneous is android figuring out the rest of the battery stats, it's normal for new devices.
Themaniacboy said:
Miscellaneous is android figuring out the rest of the battery stats, it's normal for new devices.
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Click to collapse
If by "new" you mean recently flashed/factory restored, then I'm not sure what to say. Even after flashing a recovery image I've never noticed that category. The only reason why I asked was because I assumed that was what you were referencing as being excessive.
If you were referencing the 24+ hour battery life graph shown in your screenshots, then that seems about right. Unfortunately the tablet has never been known to have stellar battery life unless it's on battery saver 24/7.
MidgetMob said:
If by "new" you mean recently flashed/factory restored, then I'm not sure what to say. Even after flashing a recovery image I've never noticed that category. The only reason why I asked was because I assumed that was what you were referencing as being excessive.
If you were referencing the 24+ hour battery life graph shown in your screenshots, then that seems about right. Unfortunately the tablet has never been known to have stellar battery life unless it's on battery saver 24/7.
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Seems about right?! He had 7min 2sec screen on time. If thats "about right" to you... you need to RMA your tablet.
Clearly whatever "Miscellaneous" is, is his issue.
mackay508 said:
I recently noticed after the latest update excessive battery drain as seen in screenshots posted below. I have tried a factory reset and then unlocked bootloader to root and added greenify to try help save my battery. Does anyone have any tips on what else to try?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, so I noticed the very same thing when I got my Shield, I haven't rooted (I had on KitKat to restore some backups, then didn't do it again in Lollipop yet). I contacted Nvidia's service via livechat and got this answer. It did some considerable difference, although I still think it's draining a little too fast, but my old tablet had a pretty strong battery so I was just spoiled by it it seems >.<
So here it goes:
Nvidia Shield Callibration: (this takes a while)
You will have to calibrate the battery for just one time and observe the device battery backup for 2-3days to see the changes.
1: Drain your Shield tablet battery by using it normally until it turns off by itself.
2: Power-on your Shield tablet, if it wakes up and if you see some power left, follow step 1.
3: If Shield tablet is now drained to the point it can't wake up, set the device to charge for 7-8 hours.
The device should remain off when you set it for charging here.
4: Unplug the charger after 7-8hours, power on and wait for the battery charge to drop down to 90-95%.
5: Once the device battery drops down to 90-95%, plug in the charger and charge for one complete hour.
6: Unplug the charger once the device is fully charged.
7: Go to Shield settings > Shield power control > Apps> select optimize all option.
8: Go to Shield settings > Shield power control > system>
• Set the brightness to auto.
• Change the sleep option to 2 minutes of inactivity instead of default 10 minutes inactivity.
• Change the processor mode to either optimized or Battery savings.
• Check the WiFi optimization on.
Observe the device performance and report to us if you are still facing issue with the battery backup..
And then they gave me some tips for better battery life in general, I follow them (mostly) and my battery seems to hold on decently:
1: Always use the Shield tablet charger and not the computer USB ports or any other charger as the power specifications vary from the device to device.
2: In case if the charger is missing, use the back port of the desktop computer to charge the device instead of front port.
3: Always remember to exit the application instead of tapping the home button which will continue to run the application in the background.
4: Restart your Shield tablet at least once in a week. This will refresh the device making it work faster and efficient.
5: Connect the charger only when the battery comes down to 15% and unplug the charger only when it reaches 90% or above. This will reduce the number of charge cycles which will make battery last longer.
6: Use a third party app manager like Clean Master and free the memory at-least once a day to keep the device running faster.
To notice if the battery is fully/optimally charged when the device is off, look for the led indicator next to the charging port. It should be green, indicating it is fully/optimally charged
Any developer wants to make a kernel for games on the poco x3 pro? if possible, add the option to skip the battery, such as Rog 3, oneplus 7 (enabled by the advanced charge controller). Please!
You can try ask in the telegram group
MOD EDIT: Link Removed
Battery skip, do you mean direct power to device without charging the battery when connected with charger?
This thing will need the hardware support. As I personally try auto-detect, ACC didn't detect this support.
Maybe ask developers if they see this option possible in the firmware/kernel or not.
pl1992aw said:
You can try ask in the telegram group
MOD EDIT: Link Removed
Battery skip, do you mean direct power to device without charging the battery when connected with charger?
This thing will need the hardware support. As I personally try auto-detect, ACC didn't detect this support.
Maybe ask developers if they see this option possible in the firmware/kernel or not.
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yes the power goes straight to the cell phone and does not charge the battery, it preserves the useful life, so I saw only the kernel support is enough I think
TheKaikera said:
yes the power goes straight to the cell phone and does not charge the battery, it preserves the useful life, so I saw only the kernel support is enough I think
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Click to collapse
Use Advanced Charging Controller (acc)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/advanced-charging-controller-acc.3668427/
It's written in the README description how to "emulate" battery idle mode
Spoiler
GenericEmulate battery idle mode with a voltage limit: acc -s pc=101 rc=0 mcv=3920. The first two arguments disable the regular charging pause/resume functionality. The last sets a voltage limit that will dictate how much the battery should charge. The battery enters a [pseudo] idle mode when its voltage peaks. Essentially, it works as a power buffer.
Limiting the charging current to 0-250 mA or so (e.g., acc -sc 0) may produce the same effect. acc -sc - restores the default limit.
Force fast charge: appy_on_boot="/sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge::1::0 usb/boost_current::1::0 charger/boost_current::1::0"
https://github.com/VR-25/acc/blob/master/README.md
pl1992aw said:
Use Advanced Charging Controller (acc)
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/advanced-charging-controller-acc.3668427/
It's written in the README description how to "emulate" battery idle mode
Spoiler
GenericEmulate battery idle mode with a voltage limit: acc -s pc=101 rc=0 mcv=3920. The first two arguments disable the regular charging pause/resume functionality. The last sets a voltage limit that will dictate how much the battery should charge. The battery enters a [pseudo] idle mode when its voltage peaks. Essentially, it works as a power buffer.
Limiting the charging current to 0-250 mA or so (e.g., acc -sc 0) may produce the same effect. acc -sc - restores the default limit.
Force fast charge: appy_on_boot="/sys/kernel/fast_charge/force_fast_charge::1::0 usb/boost_current::1::0 charger/boost_current::1::0"
https://github.com/VR-25/acc/blob/master/README.md
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Click to collapse
I've tested it and it really seems to work, but how can I make sure I'm not ruining my battery?
TheKaikera said:
I've tested it and it really seems to work, but how can I make sure I'm not ruining my battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't go to high on battery temperature.
Try not to use while charging.
Smart batteries now have self condition check.
Ampere app can check condition of batteries.
Try not to get battery percentage higher than 95%.
Try not to get battery percentage lower than 30%. Charge when you have access to power.
I always use the black shark cooler when I play on the charger, battery temperature at 30 C, but I'm still not sure if this idle battery "emulation" works, I saw that it depends on the cell phone kernel and I'm not sure if my phone supports it, I wanted to be sure, because I use the game charging for hours and the battery without charging can't handle
TheKaikera said:
I always use the black shark cooler when I play on the charger, battery temperature at 30 C, but I'm still not sure if this idle battery "emulation" works, I saw that it depends on the cell phone kernel and I'm not sure if my phone supports it, I wanted to be sure, because I use the game charging for hours and the battery without charging can't handle
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ACC did not detect idle mode support on auto, it is not support by the kernel, not even in MIUI (yet).
Only emulate.
You need to take balance whether you want battery health or gaming.
You have to choose which is priority for you.
Give and take, not both.
About kernel problem, go ask in Telegram group. Find kernel authors and ask possibilities to get idle battery mode into kernel.