So I have a question about using my tablet while it is raining. First of all, I know its not the greatest idea in the world, and I know it COULD damage it. But here is my question.
How hard would it have to be raining, before it would be a cause of concern? Rain can come at anytime, and sometimes you can not avoid it... Surely designers have kept this in mind, and have done their best... But as I said before, how hard would it have to be raining, before worrying that it will damage the tablet? Thanks in advance for answers...
If you need more detail, I will be happy to supply it. But I would please like to get a general idea... Also, does the Note 10.1 have a water damage sticker, or indicator anywhere on the exterior of the device? Or is it on the battery like most other things in the world?
a suggestion
Rapth said:
So I have a question about using my tablet while it is raining. First of all, I know it's not the greatest idea in the world, and I know it COULD damage it. But here is my question.
How hard would it has to be raining, before it would be a cause of concern? Rain can come at anytime, and sometimes you can not avoid it... Surely designers have kept this in mind, and have done their best... But as I said before, how hard would it have to be raining, before worrying that it will damage the tablet? Thanks in advance for answers...
If you need more detail, I will be happy to supply it. But I would please like to get a general idea... Also, does the Note 10.1 have a water damage sticker, or indicator anywhere on the exterior of the device? Or is it on the battery like most other things in the world?
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Click to collapse
The note 10.1 is built pretty tight from the front, so where i would be worried are the open areas like the headphone jack, speakers, charging port, etc. Also, if you have a cover or case that might prevent some water form going through. Any electronic should not get it's components wet, so the best advice i can give is avoid water as much as possible.
ebahena said:
The note 10.1 is built pretty tight from the front, so where i would be worried are the open areas like the headphone jack, speakers, charging port, etc. Also, if you have a cover or case that might prevent some water form going through. Any electronic should not get it's components wet, so the best advice i can give is avoid water as much as possible.
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Click to collapse
I am not so worried about the charging port, as its on the bottom of the device, and is covered by hands, and I watch the area for rain running down. As for the headphone jack, I never use it, not that big of a deal. I can't really protect the speakers... The amount of rain I am talking is like, light, to moderate. Not down pouring, and not drenching the device in water. As I said before, I understand that its something I should probably not do, as there is a chance of danger. I am simply asking how much rain would be required to cause damage? Its a portable device, and its going to be used, rain, shine, or snow, as long as its not hailing outside, or a blizzard. Basically weather I would be willing to stand in, would be weather the device would be exposed to.
I am simply wondering the probability of damage being caused in light to moderate rain fall. It's hard to explain. Where I live, the weather changes randomly, it will rain for ten minutes, than stop. Than a few hours later, will begin raining again. I play a game that requires me to be outside, if its lightly, or moderately raining, I don't want to have to stop, than go back out, if I do not have to.
I appreciate your answer, but I feel I need more detail. The amount of rain it has been exposed to, is no more than splashes, and it is not raining hard enough for water to be running all over my device.
Condensation could trigger the water damage indicators and void warranty .
But that is the same for many devices .
Note is not waterproof and user guide probably says don't use in wet condition's .
jje
I'm worried about meteor strikes, I know it's not likely but it can happen.....:silly:
But really, if it looks like rain then why chance it if you're worried. All it takes is a quick look at the sky to see if there might be a downpour...
I generally carry my note in a backpack, it has a case and the chances of it getting soaked are negligable...
UPDATE: After playing around with a few different phones (and breaking a few displays myself) I should note that working with an LCD display is a lot more fragile than working with an AMOLED display (i.e. Samsung mostly). LCD displays are a lot thinner, bend and break easier, and are less forgiving to slight amounts of pressure on the display.
I found that using the thin wire cuts the polarizing filter and destroys the LCD most of the times for me, while working with the LCD and glass detached from the body is generally not a very good idea without a separation machine, as the LCD is at the mercy of the glass you're trying to remove.
My current technique with LCD screens, involve working directly on the phone itself, and purposefully shattering any large shards of the top glass/ digitiser to make it easier to remove as opposed to a large chunk. Basically what I found is that there's less chance damaging the LCD when removing small shards of glass vs large ones, as you're at the mercy of the dry times of the glue between the glass and the LCD.
As an additional note, if you have a way to maintain it, you'd want to keep the glass heated to about 70-80 celcius. Any hotter and the LCD will discolour.
------------------
This was originally a reply that I posted on the N7000 General thread, but I feel that most of it's techniques apply to most modern smartphones, in particular most Samsung devices, so I feel that it's quite helpful if it's shared with the lot of you, in hopes that it makes your life when it comes to replacing your smart phone front glass (without Digitizer) ala DIY. I know for a fact that this works on the Note 2, S3, S4, Note 3 as I've worked on these devices before.
I'd like to chime in on this as someone who has managed to do this process successfully on a number of occasions. I've gotten good enough at it that I've taken on helping other people repair their phones for a fee, and am contemplating on just having an ad out there as side income for myself, so here goes.
The first thing I usually do, is with cracked displays, is to layer the top with packing tape, just to make sure that the shards of glass don't go anywhere.
From there, I use a heat gun set at very low heat and heat the phone evenly, moving around for about 30 seconds (do not stay at one spot, keep moving, either in a zig zag or circular motion. The display should be hot, but not overly hot till it burns you. All you're doing is just loosening the adhesive a little.
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Start by lifting up the glass from the top edge of the phone, where the earpiece is, and slowly and gently try and lift it up. I use plastic phone opening tools as well as spudges. It should give way relatively easily with light pressure. If it gets difficult, again with low heat, run the heat gun over the next effective area of lifting. I do not recommend metal tools as they can and WILL (from experience) damage the LCD below if you're not careful.
Slowly and gently make your way down the phone to the capacitive buttons, and if you hit little shards of glass, be patient with them. It's patience that will get you your screen replaced hitch free.
Once you get the display edges off, don't get too happy and rip the rest off, because the capacitive buttons are glued onto the display as well, with adhesive. Slowly heat up that area as well, and I recommend this time, with a pair of thin long metal forceps, go in and slowly peel it off the glass
Once you have that off, you can easily separate the glass from the body, and from there what I do is I clean up the body and the display with isopropyl alcohol, to get the remaining glue residue off the display, and prep it for a new pane of glass to go over. It is at this stage that you should work in a dust free room, or at least no AC/ no FAN. Those are my rules anyway.
This is the part that I highly recommend doing, which is fully disassembling the phone, removing all the internal components until you're left with just the inner body and the outer frame. What I do is that I snap the inner body into the outer body, free of any of the internal components (cameras, sensors, anything that you can remove), such that any excess display glue will not seep into them and damage the components (again, I've had this happen to me)
If the replacement glass that you bought does not come with replacement adhesives for the body (not for the screen), then what I suggest you use, (which I use as well) is a combination of 1mm or 2mm, 3M 9448 Tape for Electricals. Normal tape is not nearly as adhesive or thin enough for the job.
After having done so, this is the part where unless you have an autoclave unit lying around, you're going to be using LOCA (Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive) and not OCA (Optical Clear Adhesive). This is the adhesive layer in between your display and the glass. Apply the Loca on the display in sort of a Y shape on both ends, while leaving plenty of space on the borders
Above is how I apply the LOCA on my display, and I don't go too generous with it, otherwise you have to deal with a lot of leakage later. Remove all protective plastic from the new glass pane, and slowly lower it, bottom first, then top, such that the bottom becomes like a hinge for lowering the display on to. Do not be bothered if the liquid doesn't spread evenly at this point. Even a bit of air bubbles can be solved later. For now, press the glass down onto where you placed the 3M tape before, securing the glass on the body. This also helps the glue from coming out of the edges later. The glue will naturally spread a little after doing this.
I usually start by pressing the center of the display, to try and spread the glue out onto the whole display, and this process may take some time, especially if you're trying to get those pesky air bubbles out. What I do is that I slowly but surely get them into the edges, and make sure they don't appear again.
I then go over the display with a UV Flashlight of 365nm, on places like the corners where I'm happy with the results (i.e. no airbubbles), for about 15 seconds. The purpose of this step is to harden the glue a little there such that when you're doing your final bake, they don't suddenly creep up on you. Do this for edges where you have problematic air bubbles as well, and once you're done, it's time for the final bake.
I use a 48W UV light that I got off the internet, and I bake the top of the phone for about 20 minutes, then I remove the outer frame, leaving only the inner body + glass, and I bake the other side of the display as well for a further 5 minutes. This is to harden the excess glue as well, that way it's easier to remove and clean up.
When all that is done, it's time to put the phone back together, so I hope you remembered which component goes where and how, and where each screw goes as well.
The final results? A happy phone that's ready to be used again
Note: If you get a gummy/ Sticky home button with a bit of the glue seeping out, what I do is that keeping the phone upright at about a 45 degree angle, I drop about 3 drops of isopropyl alcohol down the home button, and let it go in a little, and using a cotton pad, keep mashing the button until the solvent thoroughly gets in and dissolves and excess underneath.
Sorry if this post was long, but I thought that my experiences would be helpful to others . Feel free to chime in on your own experiences/ thoughts on the process, as well as maybe some important information that I may have missed out that you feel should be added to the first post.
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EDIT: A bit of an addendum to add to this topic as I feel I need to address a few questions or concerns
FAQ
Q: Why would you want to repair the screen yourself? Why not just send it over to a shop to have it repaired for you?
A: The answer is quite simple. Cost. Over here where I am, Malaysia, the cost of getting a screen repaired via 3rd party repair shops is about 600 ringgit, or 200 USD. Consider that if you have the patience, skills, and materials to do so, you can do it at a fraction of the cost. For starters the glass itself can be acquired for under 10 USD if you're a smart shopper. Plus you're having fun!
Q: What do you need to perform this repair?
A: Here's a list of things that I use for repairs
- Packing Tape (prevents loose glass shards from going into your skin while you're working)
- Heat Gun (A hair dryer may do the job just fine as all you need is to heat up the glue to remove it)
- Plastic tools/ Spudges (chances are if you ever ordered replacement glass or what not, you should have some lying around)
- Forceps (thin metal tweezers. I use this to separate the capacitive buttons with greater precision, though if you have any suitable alternative, it could work just fine.
- Acetone (Isopropyl Alcohol. I use this to clean up the area after all the glass has been removed, to prepared for a new optical layer. I do not recommend the usage of thinner, as it's not very plastic friendly, neither should you use nailpolish.)
- 1mm or 2mm 3M 9448 Tape for Electricals (in the off chance that the glass that your order doesn't come with replacement adhesives to stick the glass to the body, this comes necessary. Standard double sided tape isn't adhesive enough so I wouldn't recommend it, though VHB tape could be an alternative; you just have to cut it into thin strips)
- LOCA (Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive. This is the glue layer in between the display and the glass. I do not recommend proceeding without it. It may look like a good idea at first, but once your phone gets exposed to the elements, or even pressure on the glass, chances are moisture is going to form in between the glass and the LCD, creating unsightly newton rings, and trust me, it's ugly; I've been there.
- UV Light for curing the LOCA glue (I use a 48W light. I tried using a UV flashlight to cure it before, but it didn't manage to cure the glue well, even after hours of exposure.)
Q: What are the costs of performing this repair?
A: The consumables in this repair don't cost much at all, though you will need to make a small investment in the tools. They still come up cheaper than sending it for repair however. Here's a list of my cost breakdown:
=Consumables=
- Replacement Glass, 5-10 USD : If you know where to look, you can get it for under 10 USD each time, sometimes even below 5 USD.
- LOCA, 9-10 USD: Good for at least 6 repairs, even if you decide to leak it all over the place.
- 1mm & 2mm 3M 9448 Tape, 6.50 USD: Good for more than a few dozen repairs. mine came in rolls of 50M in length.
- Your time. If you're experienced, you can get it done in 3 hours or shorter, depending on severity.
=Tools= (these can be reused for future repairs)
- Plastic Tools, 5 USD (Again, if you have anything similar that you would like to use to pry open the display, go ahead. I recommend them being flat and wide however.)
- UV Curing Light, 35 USD
- Heat Gun, 20 USD (Free if you decide to use a hair dryer).
- Packing Tape, 2 USD (again, free if you have any of them laying around.
Q: Why do you need to use LOCA?
A: Unless you have an Autoclave machine lying around, you can use OCA. Chances are you don't and an Autoclave machine is around 3,000 USD. Let's not go there. LOCA sits in between your LCD and the glass. I won't pretend to know what exactly it's purpose is, but I'll tell you that your phone looks a LOT better with it, has less chances of breaking your Glass + LCD as there's less chance for it to flex and crack inwards, and prevents moisture from forming in between your LCD and Glass (which is bad!), forming unsightly newton rings. It also prevents dust from getting in where you can't reach it, and trust me, it's irritating as hell if that happens.
Q: Does LOCA come preapplied when the phone comes straight from the factory and does that means that my new glass is forever bonded to the LCD?
A: When your phone is made in the factory, it has OCA instead, which is a pre-cured version of LOCA. The only difference between OCA and LOCA is that one is pre-cured, i.e. OCA, and LOCA needs to be cured with UV lights. LOCA is not highly adhesive, so you can easily remove it after being applied, so no it doesn't take down the LCD with it.
Q: Do you need to use the UV Lights?
A: The answer to this is sort of a yes and no. The world around is is full of UV light, so if you're up to the task and it's a sunny day, then you could technically leave it out in the sun for a while, for it to work it's magic. I don't recommend it, but it's possible. If you however live in the clouds, or have 24/7 winters, I suggest you get the UV light. LOCA does NOT cure with heat, or being left alone. It specifically cures in UV light as I know it.
Q: This all looks hard and difficult! I don't know if I can do it
A: As with many things in life, patience and perseverance rewards you. I admit that this is not for everyone, but for those who do attempt it, I will assure you that you will learn something new, feel accomplished with yourself for fixing your own phone, and have possibly developed a new skill set that is capable of bringing you a source of income.
Q: If I send you my phone will you do it for me?
A: If you live in Malaysia, and do not mind meeting up with me/ sending your phone over (and of course, waiting), I'd be more than happy to help you fix your phone, though I do have to incur my own costs on top of raw materials. Feel free to message me for more details
Great article...
But as an FYI, baking a functional AMOLED screen with UV light is not the greatest idea, since UV light degrades it just as bad as sunlight... Better cover it or use a heat-gun instead.
Thanks for the reply, but I don't think that's possible either as LOCA only specifically cures with a UV light. From testing things out it may not be necessary to cure it for 20 odd minutes, but the UV light IS necessary.
A++ poster, will buy from again.
This kind of homebrew fix is analogous with fixing your own car... sure you can, but is it worth the time and cost of the tools required?
That's why they have car and cellphone repair shops. But each to their own I guess...just my opinion...
billa said:
This kind of homebrew fix is analogous with fixing your own car... sure you can, but is it worth the time and cost of the tools required?
That's why they have car and cellphone repair shops. But each to their own I guess...just my opinion...
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Click to collapse
Well, its a homebrew solutions thats a lot cheaper than the offerings here in Malaysia. They charge 200 USD, but a diy solution comes in at just under 30 for me.
Besides, its in the pursuit of knowledge! And just tinkering with things and getting things done I enjoy repairing things, and smart phones are no different. I'm sure not everyone shares the same passion as me, but its still worth something.
billa said:
This kind of homebrew fix is analogous with fixing your own car... sure you can, but is it worth the time and cost of the tools required?
That's why they have car and cellphone repair shops. But each to their own I guess...just my opinion...
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Click to collapse
If you have access to the heat gun and UV lights, absolutely. I have seen S3 glass only sell for as little as $12. I have not seen screen repair services priced less than $100.
Even purchasing the heat gun and UV lights you can come out less expensive than the repair provided you shop around a bit. And then you will have the tools in case you break another phone, or if (like the OP) you want to repair other people's devices for a fee.
I agreed with you. repairing cost of smartphone at shop is totally expensive in malaysia. buying a new one will be a smarter way than repairing at shop
For those who are actually wondering, LOCA is used for mobile phone screen repairs, and yes, it is made to be cured under UV Light, as per below
Translated text says "UV Curing Adhesive"
I would like to state that having the adhesive around the edges and using a heat gun and a few tiny clamps work just as well as described, holds just fine, repaired this guy's iPod touch that way a few years back ran into him a few weeks ago and its still as good as new
Heat gun and clamps cost $11 total not sure how much the liquid adhesive and uv light to cure costs
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
You have the LCD Screen Separator Machine, SO you can separate the lcd with the broken glass. And you have the UV Glue, so you can make the new glass with lcd together. But we are common people, we can not afford to buy the machine. And we are not repair technical person, how can we do it ourself ? I think this job is very difficult for our common people...
billa said:
This kind of homebrew fix is analogous with fixing your own car... sure you can, but is it worth the time and cost of the tools required?
That's why they have car and cellphone repair shops. But each to their own I guess...just my opinion...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Knowledge is priceless. I'd rather pay a little extra the first time and learn something so I know how to help myself or others later on.
Teach a man to fish...
deathblade said:
I would like to state that having the adhesive around the edges and using a heat gun and a few tiny clamps work just as well as described, holds just fine, repaired this guy's iPod touch that way a few years back ran into him a few weeks ago and its still as good as new
Heat gun and clamps cost $11 total not sure how much the liquid adhesive and uv light to cure costs
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you're mistakened though. As the liquid adhesive actually sits in between the display and the front panel glass. You could go without it, and trust me, I've tried, but that makes it susceptible to physically touching the display below it, leaving newton rings that are unsightly. :/
ecparts said:
You have the LCD Screen Separator Machine, SO you can separate the lcd with the broken glass. And you have the UV Glue, so you can make the new glass with lcd together. But we are common people, we can not afford to buy the machine. And we are not repair technical person, how can we do it ourself ? I think this job is very difficult for our common people...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no separator machine, just a heat gun it doesn't cost much, you can get one for about 20 USD, and the same goes for the UV curing light, and its glue which totals about 30. All in all, its about 50 for raw materials, most of which are tools you can reuse again, and not just for this occasion
Again, some people who are hardware enthusiasts do have it lying around
Thanks dear for informative article.
The very best way to do this is use .08 wire. You can buy a roll for $10 and it'll cut through the glue like butter with a little heat. And since your not lifting on the glass the chances of breaking the lcd are alot slimmer.
deathknight842 said:
The very best way to do this is use .08 wire. You can buy a roll for $10 and it'll cut through the glue like butter with a little heat. And since your not lifting on the glass the chances of breaking the lcd are alot slimmer.
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Click to collapse
Thanks sir. A good alternative. I use plastic tools and I'm quite careful so I'm sure I'm on the safe side, though that wire method does sound a boatload faster.
It's alot easier. If you have a heat plate to keep the temp up on the phone it only takes about 1 minute to remove the whole screen.
Also a tip for anyone wanting to try this. After you get the lcd off your not finished. Be VERY carefull cleaning off the lcd. My first time I got solution on the edge of the lcd and it got under the lcd and washed out the color on half of it. Also when you add the loca to the lcd. Be very generous with it. I was being stingy my first time and wasted a good half bottle trying to get enough glue in there. You can always remove extra glue but you can't add it.. Plus you dont wanna be squeezing the crap out of your lcd and risk damaging it. And finally with people like me that have pets so a clean air room is pretty impossible. What you can do is take a large tub. Flip it upside down and cut two holes for your arms and clean the inside out with lysol. It makes a still air box and should keep a good majority of dust away as long as you don't lift it.
hamsteyr said:
I think you're mistakened though. As the liquid adhesive actually sits in between the display and the front panel glass. You could go without it, and trust me, I've tried, but that makes it susceptible to physically touching the display below it, leaving newton rings that are unsightly. :/
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Click to collapse
I understand to purpose for the liquid adhesive I'm just speaking from experience I've never had an issue with no adhesive in between the LCD and glass also I'm just saying you take proper procedures to get the job done but while you have these tools that not everyone would like to pay for or knows exists there are cheaper ways of doing it with just a little more hassle but the outcome is the same(again from my experience ) but the tutorial you wrote up is nice and very detailed great job, only thing I would suggest is to post links to where you can get these tools so if someone wants may look into doing thus a little easier
Sent from my SGH-I997 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
LOCA ?
So, this adhesive isn't used from the factory, correct?
I'm also assuming that once you use it, if your digitizer breaks again, you will be replacing the LCD as well since they are bonded.
Hey everyone.
I purchased my phone through duty free, unlocked so after checking with local Samsung repair center they told me my warranty is not applicable in the country i live in, because i purchased the phone in duty free. This is not an official Samsung repair center, just a random one authorized by Samsung btw.
Either way, the issue is that the back glass is slightly lifting on one side/ corner. The top right corner (Next to the heart rate sensor) is slightly unstuck from the body, and it creates a tiny little gap, which ends up running down the side of the phone a little.
I have tried finding a solution and no luck. What i want to know is, if i take a heat gun, and give the back glass a blast under the heat gun in order to warm up the glue, and then apply some pressure evenly across the back glass, will that do the trick? Is it even safe to do so ?
Thanks for the help and if necessary i can try submit some pictures.
It should be safe to do as long as you don't heat it up too much as to cause the internals of the phone to get over-stressed. I would power down your phone and make sure it is cooled before starting the process. You don't want it turned on and then your phone decide that it wants to update 20 apps and cause it to heat up any more than it already is.
Also, be gentle with applying pressure to the glass, if you happened to have dropped it and warped the frame that would explain why the glass is lifting up, and if you press too hard it may break it. Just be careful and you should be fine. It's not a guaranteed fix but it's a safe method to try out.
If you need help on using the heat gun just look online for videos of repairing phone screens, plenty of them use heat guns to get the adhesive loosened up and almost always state what temperature to set it to. I feel like it was around 700°F (370°C) last I looked, but don't quote me on that.
Outbreak444 said:
It should be safe to do as long as you don't heat it up too much as to cause the internals of the phone to get over-stressed. I would power down your phone and make sure it is cooled before starting the process. You don't want it turned on and then your phone decide that it wants to update 20 apps and cause it to heat up any more than it already is.
Also, be gentle with applying pressure to the glass, if you happened to have dropped it and warped the frame that would explain why the glass is lifting up, and if you press too hard it may break it. Just be careful and you should be fine. It's not a guaranteed fix but it's a safe method to try out.
If you need help on using the heat gun just look online for videos of repairing phone screens, plenty of them use heat guns to get the adhesive loosened up and almost always state what temperature to set it to. I feel like it was around 700°F (370°C) last I looked, but don't quote me on that.
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Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the reply. I will try give it a shot over the weekend. The phone is in perfect conditions and has never been dropped. In fact when i press down on the glass, it kinda slots back into place, but then sticks back out, so i'm assuming its un-even adhesive or whatever the case is with it. In reality its such an un-noticeable issue, but you know how it is... once you know its there, that's the only thing you notice
I wonder if anyone else had this issue because i found a YouTuber who actually also had his back glass un-stick from the body
Sorry to hear about your luck. I would think it goes without saying, but it will probably no longer be waterproof.
rasimpson318 said:
Sorry to hear about your luck. I would think it goes without saying, but it will probably no longer be waterproof.
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Yeah, i already came to that realization. Thanks anyway !
Did you get it to work?
I am having the same issue as you had and I wondered if you came up with a solution???
Gme12528 said:
I am having the same issue as you had and I wondered if you came up with a solution???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my experience doing so does not work. You need to replace the adhesive which is easy to do, what is more difficult is sourcing an OEM one
It was probably only a matter of time before the structural weakness of the ROG5 started showing in accidents and broken devices. My device is officially broken from damage around the mid section between the 2 batteries and the side USB/cooler port and antenna soft spot - exactly as highlighted on some videos. As a result, connectivity goes on and off and reception is extremely weak.
To be clear, the device has not been bent violently, dropped, smashed or anyhting like that, there are no physical bends visible other than I noticed one corner of the glass back plate looks a tiny tiny bit detached from the body of the phone. I'm guessing the device might have been bent just enough while in a pocket to damage it. No broken glass plates.
Up to you if go for this device but everyone should be aware of this. The device is with ASUS, if they don't fix it under the warranty and the price for fixing it isn't on the low side, I'll take the loss and switch to another brand.
If you're absolutely going for ASUS, the ROG 3 might be a much better choice - It's better built, has better tempretures/battery life, does custom reccovery like TWRP without pain, probably cheaper now and I bet it performs exactly as well as ROG 5 for 99.5% of games/apps during the remaining lifetime of both devices.
I have feeling the ROG 5 is the device ASUS will regret... It's basically an overheated, inefficient,badly tuned version of ROG 3 with a weak body and some overpriced expanded memory..
Thanks for the hint: however I'm really sceptical to be honest. I can't believe this can happen due to bending in normal pocket (or maybe I don't want to believe it because I like the phone)
I really wish you best of luck that Asus repairs it for free and I would like to know the outcome.
What does your pockets look like? Are they too small/tight because I tried it and whatever I do my current phone isn't under pressure at any time when it's in my pockets.
Anubarak16 said:
Thanks for the hint: however I'm really sceptical to be honest. I can't believe this can happen due to bending in normal pocket (or maybe I don't want to believe it because I like the phone)
I really wish you best of luck that Asus repairs it for free and I would like to know the outcome.
What does your pockets look like? Are they too small/tight because I tried it and whatever I do my current phone isn't under pressure at any time when it's in my pockets.
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I didn't believe it either. Normal pocket size and I never carry my phone in the back pocket where you risk sitting on it. My best guess is the device was in a front pocket while wearing jeans and has bent at an angle on the weak point while sitting down or something just enough for some internal circuit or antenna lines to bend or break. Don't put this to test with your own device - you'll wreck it...
Honestly, the device is meant to be used almost exclusively with the cooler. This is the same reason I never take it off, but turn it off, when putting it in a pocket. Beyond the obvious improvements to heat concerns, it also reinforces the center of the device to prevent bending.
Sure, it does make it a bit bulkier and isn't going to prevent the device from pressure if you wear skinny jeans a size smaller than they should be for proper circulation, but it will definitely stop it from randomly folding in half without breaking that first.
I get dragged into a lot of unplanned physical activity without thinking about preventing stress on the phone. I've been unable to confirm that the phone will simply break over time.
I can only assume it was one of those perfect scenarios, not unlike the Note 7 fires. It is obviously a possibility, but the actual number of people that will ever experience it is probably too low and it's just not enough of a safety concern to justify a recall or discontinuation.
Edit: Now that I think about it, I actually tried to use a Pelican G40 case to store the phone and cooler during travel (and add water protection). The case is just slightly too short and the device had to be angled for a tight fit. This would be a lot like placing the phone in a tight pocket. I would be interested to see bend tests done with the cooler.
twistedumbrella said:
Honestly, the device is meant to be used almost exclusively with the cooler. This is the same reason I never take it off, but turn it off, when putting it in a pocket. Beyond the obvious improvements to heat concerns, it also reinforces the center of the device to prevent bending.
Sure, it does make it a bit bulkier and isn't going to prevent the device from bending if you wear skinny jeans a size smaller than they should be for proper circulation, but it will definitely stop it from randomly folding in half from normal use.
I've mentioned before that I only use my device with WiFi, but I live in an area where a lot of neighbors share their connections and get together often. I play Nerf war, skateboard, and all the other stuff that the younger parents get dragged into by being close with them. I should also mention that I have no kids, so it's not something I consider in my own purchases. Knock on wood that I've never been able to confirm that the phone will simply break over time.
I can only assume it was one of those perfect scenarios, not unlike the Note 7 fires. It is obviously a possibility, but the actual number of people that will ever experience it is probably too low and it's just not enough of a safety concern to justify a recall or discontinuation.
Edit: Now that I think about it, I actually tried to use a Pelican G40 case to store the phone during travel (and add water protection). The case is just slightly too short and the device had to be angled for the latch to work. This would be a lot like placing the phone in a tight pocket and the cooler kept it rigid. I would be interested to see those bend tests done with the cooler.
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If the device is meant to be used exclusively with the cooler, ASUS should explicitly make that clear and include one with every phone, in which case the design of the Lenovo Legion is probably better - i.e just build a cooler hump into the phone regardless of the looks. The ROG 5 cooler is waay to bulky for pocket use for most people.
I think the weak mid body pf ROG5 is just due to sloppy design - which is unacceptable for what is meant to be a flagship device.
Either way, keep this phone in a bag or jacket pocket and make sure it's not at a bending angle at any time. Seems you don't need a big squeeze to break stuff inside the phone. I don't know what's under the mid section, it could be some antenna rails or other connectors that easily break or bend out of function. Again, I don't recommend testing any of this, the risk of breaking your device is high...
Andrologic said:
If the device is meant to be used exclusively with the cooler, ASUS should explicitly make that clear and include one with every phone, in which case the design of the Lenovo Legion is probably better - i.e just build a cooler hump into the phone regardless of the looks. The ROG 5 cooler is waay to bulky for pocket use for most people.
I think the weak mid body pf ROG5 is just due to sloppy design - which is unacceptable for what is meant to be a flagship device.
Either way, keep this phone in a bag or jacket pocket and make sure it's not at a bending angle at any time. Seems you don't need a big squeeze to break stuff inside the phone. I don't know what's under the mid section, it could be some antenna rails or other connectors that easily break or bend out of function. Again, I don't recommend testing any of this, the risk of breaking your device is high...
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Both Pro and Ultimate versions DO come with one, but one of the ways to make a cheaper version is to leave out some accessories and sell them separately. They may still expect you to buy it and may not prioritize the concerns of those that don't. Besides, building something prone to burning out and breaking down into the phone is a terrible decision. Lenovo will no doubt get their own backlash for that down the road.
I feel like carrying the phone in a bag or jacket is just as big of a risk. It would make more sense to get a rigid holster or sleeve. I don't feel like the design was sloppy, but definitely not as durable as typical phones. Much like the Nvidia Shield, I am sure there are a lot of things they wanted to make possible that ended up being a lot of compromises.
I'll be interested to see how widespread this becomes and how Asus goes about handling it. The number of imports / exports mean a lot of people are running around without proper warranty coverage.
Wow it makes my Note 10+'s battery replacement look like a cakewalk.
Yeah you don't want to flex this phone...
Update >> ASUS fixed the device. There was damage to both reception as well as reading the SIM slots. The main board had to be replaced. They did it free of charge under the warranty, no questions asked. I think they know they've messed up..
It sounds like Asus covered exactly what is written in the terms of the warranty, which is hardware failure without any obvious signs of abuse. I don't know that I would call it Asus knowing they messed up, but it's good they fixed it and hopefully you will have better luck this time around.
Thank you very much for letting us know. That might at least mean we don't have to worry too much