As the title states, I’ve got a MTCD GS unit with TPMS module that I cant get the TPMS working properly. Can anyone give me some help? Completely new to this type of radio and not sure even how to troubleshoot this problem on these radios.
Thanks
Need a bit more detail. USB TPMS or plug in those weird square socket style TPMS?
It’s the square socket plugs not usb.
However I think I’ve fried the receiver. I compared the pinout of its plug to a USB plug for the same radio and I think it was feeding the 5+ and gnd into the data pins.
You might not have fried it. Does it enumerate in the device list? I think you can get dmesg on these devices with a small amount of effort.
No it doesn’t enumerate in the device list. I did repin it also so that the pins match the usb plug that also plugs into the same socket.
If it's not enumerating it could be dead. Take apart and look if there's a fuse?
Related
Hello everyone! My name is Patryk Andrzejewski (don't try to read my name if you're not polish), and this is my first thread on XDA.
I am studing electronics on university of technology so i'm pretty well with all kind of electronic stuff.
What i'm trying to do is "x-ray" the usb port in our TG01.
My basic targets is to find way to charge the device while using USB HUB or while listening music. If it's even possible to do.
Right now I know how to connect TG01 to amplifier by 3.5mm plug. Generaly most amplifiers have high impedance input while tg01 expect low impedance earphones to switch usb port to audio output. So what we need to do is take two resistors with the same resistance around 10k Ohm and connect them both between ground and both signal channels in male 3.5mm plug of the amplifier. This should do the trick. You can experiment with resistance but it should be as high as possible to not interfere in sound quality, but if it be to big output won't swich or sound would chop on high volume.
Basic usb cable have four wires plus ground. While micro usb plug have five pins. This extra pin is used to tell device what cable is connected, hub earphones charger or pc. It can be done by two ways, in each cable this extra pin is shorted to diferent other pins. Or it's connected by resistor to ground or Vcc.
What i need to do is determine how it is in our devices and if it would be done make a cable what will allow to charge while using usb to other purposes.
I can also help with porting microusb-3.5mm cables from other devices to TG01, just what i need is this cable, it's schematic, connection route with insides picture or small donation to buy it for tests.
Or eventualy I can make solution how to do it yourself.
Right now I waiting for a pack with new empty microusb male and female plugs to do some tests.
If someone have some experience with this please share.
Also it would be great if someone will port me on to usb switch driver.
Feel free to talk to me on priv.
Thread will be updated...
Hi @patryk,
Welcome to the TG01 Forum.... especially on this particular topic - if you can find a way to get multiple function via the uUSB port simultaneously, that will be great
There have been various attempts at this before, but in practice the only route seems to be using Bluetoth for audio while either charging or using the port in host mode.
I did a piece on Brighthand a while ago on connecting an external hard drive; there have also been discussions on MoDaCo and later on XDA (down the Accessories thread.... one is here and I think there may be some earlier than that). There is a link in the XDA post to a Freescale Smiconductor chip schematic. This is supposed to be able to (externally) support multi-function usage - ntended to be used by 3rd Party manufacturers in eg. a car kit, but as yet I am not aware of any such accessories having been released. If/when available would be suitable for any of the modern crop of uUSB based evices, though I think many car makers have opted for Bluetooth connectivity instead of the older style fixed car kits with cables.
Acording to pdf from your link I'm right, its all about one resistor. It's entire possibly to do this.
Tomorrow morning tests...
Thanks
oh I cant wait so:
rid_f: >220 kOhms
rid_a: 122-126 kOhms <-- this is what we're interest in
rid_b: 67-69 kOhms
rid_c: 36-37 kOhms
rid_g: 1 kOhm
These res val has small tolerance and ar not typical.
rid_a resistance is used to switch to charge device from charger and use usb for earphones or hub!
earphones - yes, but headset - not sure I must check first where mic is connected
here it is Dummy cable schematic:
Here are some related illustrations:
Schematic of the uUSB standard audio accessory control:
View attachment 505996
Picture of the supplied Toshiba earphone adaptor pcb:
View attachment 505997
The mic is connected to pins 1 and 2 (White and bare Cu)
I have made up several 3.5mm audio adapters using Neutrik 3.5mm jacks with 10k resistors fitted from D+ and D- to 0V common:
View attachment 506008
This ensures it will switch to audio out when connecting to external speakers with or without a ground-loop isolator transformer where typically the external device will have too low an impedance for the TG01 to recognise.
Shorting out D+ (Pin 2) and D- (Pin 3) causes the TG01 to go into Charging mode.
An R from ID (Pin 4) to 0V (Pin 5) causes the TG01 to go into Host mode.
I check all of these Rid's and it seems they don't work on Tg01. No matter how i try there is working only charging or earphones never both same time.
As you say device can be forced to charge when resistor < 200 ohm is connected between D+ and D- and they are floating.
There also must be other way to do this by the driver of usb charging becouse pc link charges only when TG is on.
In TG mic an switch of headset are connected to ID pin. So this first schematic of yours is about Toshiba accesory ?
Technicaly charging while using audio out is possible becouse VBUS pin is free in headset.
I'll do some other tests tomorrow..
Hi!
Any news since February?
I will find answers on many questions by reading this document
djtonka said:
I will find answer on many question by reading this document
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a good document, but iunfortunately leaves many questions unanswerable.
In Section 6.4 it shows a schematic of an Accessory Charger Adapter which is essentially what we need to achieve simultaneous charging and audio out (or other functions). It does not however give enough detail to implement. I have previously identified a Freescale chip which has been designe dto do this job, but hae been unable to identify any source from which to obtain one. In essence this is aimed at the peripheral manufacturers' -who might wish to design and market eg. a hands free car kit to which you could connect a microUSB On The Go spec device. However so far as I can discover there are no manufactureres who have as yet brought any related device to market. If anyone happens to have found anything somewhere across the globe - please shout !
Regards,
Kevin
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
mgs991099a said:
I'm looking to mount my phone to the "A" pillar in my car, but I don't want cords running all over the place. I'm looking at doing an install similar to what people do with radar detectors by hooking into the fuse box inside the car (with an adapter like the one found here). This would be just for power. I understand how to wire it up theoretically (don't need to hook up the data wires, just the power and ground). I'm just looking for a mentor to make sure I do it right.
Has anyone ever done something like this using an adapter like the one I've mentioned? And what size fuse did you use for the install so you don't hurt the phone?
On a side note, I'm driving a 2006 VW Jetta, if that helps in any way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
j.kelly said:
When I bought my car it had some hard wired cable like that, plugged an old phone in to be safe and it didn't charge properly. I scrapped the idea and just got a car deck with double usb and ran the usb to my arm console.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
mgs991099a said:
I'm trying to not have cables running everywhere like I currently do. I've already got an aftermarket XM radio next to my radio which uses up a cigarette light adapter already.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
djspreewell17 said:
What exactly do you need help with? - There are 4 wires in the usb cord. Use red for positive wire but DO NOT connect directly to 12v. USB is 5v so connecting to anything higher WILL fry your phone. You will need to get something that converts 12VDC to 5VDC. Red wire is 5v positive and black is your negative (ground). If you wanna do it cheap and easy, go buy a usb cigarette adapter, take it apart, then take the wires going to the metal connectors and connect them to your power and ground. then just plug in your usb cord and hide the whole thing in the dash.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I started looking into it and realized that 5V /= 12V. I'm currently looking at using an old cigarette lighter adapters internals and wiring them into one of those fuse adapters (it'll convert the 12V down to 5V), then take the wires and hook them into a USB cable. I've got to do some measurements and all, so I'll respond back with some pictures of when I start the project. Should cost less than $20 and about an hour of time.
Website showing detail
Alright, I have finally done the project (just have to hook it up). This website shows all of the details. I did use an add-a-fuse instead, but it is essentially the same idea. I will be adding it into my car later today.
Hi all,
I have an interesting problem to pose to the techies amongst you.
I have just managed to get my dream car and now need to integrate my phone without paying the huge sums being asked for by the car manufacturers and some aftermarket electronic suppliers (car ICE specialists too). My phone is currently a Samsung Galaxy Note 3 and the car has MOST optical audio and satnav systems.
I'm after 3 distinct, yet simultaneous, solutions, which are : -
A/ power supply to the phone
B/ HDMI or RCA output to a dash mounted 5 inch lcd screen for satnav purposes
C/ audio output to link into the car's current MOST audio system (head unit in the dashboard, also running the car's hvac, and the amplifiers are in the boot)
My first thought was to open up the USB 3 cable and to run individual wires to 3 separate plugs for each of the 3 solutions listed above. At this point many of you may be laughing at my clearly very poor understanding of modern electronics, particularly USB, and I would not argue that at all - I'm a complete dimwit here! Obviously (I think...) the clear solution is in the fact that USB can run different objectives simultaneously.
So... I run my USB 3 CABLE from the phone to a (presumably powered?) USB 3 hub and have 3 appropriate cables plugged in and running respectively to A/ a USB cigarette lighter socket, B/ an hdmi (or RCA, or composite?) plug and C/ to a standard stereo headphone jack or socket.
I don't think A/ will work because I don't see power going from the socket back through the hub and into the phone. Suggestions welcomed as I can't see how to get power to the phone at the same time as having a USB cable supplying data out. Or is there power over USB through a hub available?
B/ seems straightforward enough.
C/ the audio then needs to go to an analog to digital / wired to optical adapter and then a 2 into 1 optical switch (so I can still have the existing output from the head unit) before plugging into the amplifiers. These 2 adapters are easily available through eBay, Amazon or Maplins as far as I can see. The issue I foresee here is will the head unit still be able to control volume, fade, etc of the signal coming from the phone? If the control of the amplifiers happens via the optical cables then presumably that won't happen if I've used a switch to change the source? Would taking the output from the phone's headphone socket be of any benefit? I doubt it as the output power from there may be quite a bit higher than from the USB port...
So you can see that I clearly need some knowledgeable direction here or I will be forever going round in ever decreasing circles!
Many thanks in advance for any help given. Cheers, Mark
Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions.
I use DAB a lot but I have to keep the screen brightness on the lowest setting otherwise it kills the signal to the dab the more I increase the brightness.
I’m using a KGL px5 octo core, I’ve updated to MTCE firmware and the latest kgl mcu and I have tried with GS firmware before but still the problem is there. I have changed factory settings for screen brightness etc but still no luck. Today I cut a usb cable open and tested it with a multimeter when the screen was on full brightness with DAB on and the voltage was perfect and didn’t decrease when I turned the brightness up. I’m using the modded zoulou app and I’m pretty sure this problem was there when i used the standard app.
I’m out of ideas of what it can be.
The only thing I haven’t changed is the little DAB box, could it be this?
Could it be a software bug or could there be some other sort of hardware fault?
Anyone any ideas????
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
SkyBeam2048 said:
The question is what DAB+ receiver you're using. I personally ordered this black aluminum box with 8-pin connector along with my head unit. It never worked properly. Ended up replacing it with a Joying DAB+ USB stick which simply worked out of the box.
It's just wild-guessing why your reception is depending on screen brightness. There might be some interferences with the DAB+ box itself or the cable where it's connected. So another (shielded) cable might help. If you also got some DAB+ box with proprietary connector I recommend you to go for an USB one. I just glued my one on top of the head unit using some velcro tape so I can also easily remove it if required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dab box I’m using was supplied by erisin it is the right one it is a little square shaped box with a mcx connection for antenna and a micro usb connection for power from the headunit. I did wonder if this could be faulty but I don’t see how screen brightness could affect this box.
I have noticed sometimes that when I pull the headunit out of the dash that with the screen brightness on full sometimes the dab will work but as soon as i push it back in the dash it goes off again and I have to put the brightness back down to minimum and then it will work fine again. Because of this i have thought it could be a loose usb connection as the usb’s Are on the back of the unit and there can’t be much space behind there when the unit is pushed back in but if that is the case I don’t understand why it works when putting the brightness back down to minimum. Having said that I have tried making the usb connections tighter by raising the prongs inside the usb slots and I have noticed that they only have prongs on the top or bottom inside the usb slots whereas on my laptop and phone charger they have prongs on the top and bottom inside the usb slot therefore giving a much much firmer fit. Maybe that is the problem but I don’t know and I can’t get it working and I’m out of ideas.
Be interesting to hear from other users that are using dab on a px5 especially if you are using it successfully with a similar setup to mine.
I’m using a KGL with the little plastic square dab box and a glass mount antenna(I don’t believe the antenna is the problem as the signal is brilliant when the brightness is down and I bought a new alpine antenna.)
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
SkyBeam2048 said:
I am afraid that likely nobody can tell you for sure. I guess your DAB+ receiver then is USB-based, meaning power AND data over USB. So it only has an USB port and an antenna port.
So there isn't much which gan go wrong here. Just make sure your antenna cable is firmly attached and not "bent" in too tight angles which could cause the antenna to malfunction.
My recommendation: Try all USB ports. Attach an USB extension cord to the USB port and route it out to your glove box or similar. Then connect the USB DAB+ receiver to the antenna in your glove box etc. Just to rule out a couple of things:
USB cable dos not get bent or connector gets lose (maybe your DAB+ receiver has an indicator LED when it's powered, if not, then you can check your USB while the headunit is firmly mounted by attaching an USB stick or similar)
Your antenna cable is not squeezed or bent when you push in the head unit
Your DAB receiver box does not pick up radio enterferences from the head unit by being too close to it (yes, those units are often insufficiently shielded, so just some distance sometimes helps!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I’ve checked and changed cables etc, the cables are quite long though so there is a lot behind there which could get bent etc especially when the unit goes back. my feeling were that the usb cable were moving when im pushing the headunit back in but surely if this were the case then I’d struggle to use it all.
Your last point is interesting about moving the dab receiver box as I think I’ve always had it behind the headunit if I remember right so I might move that out of the way, but again why would screen brightness affect it?
ab1702 said:
but again why would screen brightness affect it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
SkyBeam2048 said:
Just a wild guess: It might affect reception by some interference (brightness is PWM-modulated pulsing). On the other hand it could also be related to power consumption. If voltages are not stabilized sufficiently it could affect USB voltage to an extent where your DAB receiver does not work any more, but then you would likely lose complete USB connectivity (and you could try to overcome this by using a powered USB hub).
My last advise to put the receiver away from the unit into the glove box war mainly to be able to debug the USB port and antenna connections while the unit is firmly put into the slot.
I don't have much more ideas to share currently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can’t say for sure but I don’t think the voltage is anything to do with it as I have cut the end off a usb cable and plugged it into the unit and then pushed it back in and tested it with a multimeter and it had 5.3 volts. I thought that when I turned the brightness up it could be taking power away from the usb but that doesn’t appear to be the case. I also tried a y shaped usb cable so it has double the amount of power so 10volts should be going through it. This didn’t make any difference to my problem but it does make the antenna perform better.
I think the next thing I’ll be trying is moving the dab receiver away from the headunit and see how i get on with that(although I do think I have already tried this). It definately appears to be an interference problem but from what is the question?!
Well I’m still scratching my head with this.
Tried moving the dab receiver away from the headunit last night and it makes little difference.
I’m thinking it has to be something to do with the usb connection although I still don’t understand why it is linked to the brightness of the screen.
I can take the headunit out of the dash and turn the brightness up full and it will lose all signal but then I could move the headunit a little while still out of the dash and it goes to full signal and will stay there but as soon as i go to push the unit back in the car it goes off again. The strange thing is if i then do put the unit back in the dash then lower the brightness to the lowest setting then signal is perfect again.
I’m ready for throwing it out to be honest!.!
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
ab1702 said:
Does anyone know anything about noise interference on USB ports?
I’m thinking this could potentially be the cause.
I’ve just been reading that electrical devices can cause high frequency noise interference to usb devices so I’m just guessing here that when I turn screen brightness up it is interfering and the dab receiver can’t cope with it.
Anyone for an opinion on this or know anything about it?
I’m going to buy a ferrite bead to put on the usb cable before the dab receiver and see if this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you then solved, because I also have the problems problems
Hi all,
I am trying to mod my old tf300t and keyboard dock into a dex dock for my note 9. Im not worried about the tablet portion as i can get a lcd controller for the panel. However ive been soldering and desoldering for the last 3 days. I am trying to leverage the docks kb controller and add a usb connection or modify the dock port into a usb.
I have looked at the various pinouts but cannot get the keyboard working.
I dont care about audio or sd card or the extra usb port.
Any help or pointers would be great.
Here is a mockup of the pinouts i have soldered based on the pinouts i found
Ive been trying to test it on an old s7edge incase i wire something wrong. It detects a regular keyboard but when i try this nothing...if i use the wall charger i see that the dock is charging but still nothing at the dock connector. Ive been trying with a usb 2.0 cable. Connected to the d+ d- vcc ( all 3) and multiple grounds and i pinned the sense pin to ground as well.
I have also tried to open the charge cable and solder the usb to the data pins on that both with and without ground. And use a 5v plug and the original asus plug.
The dock port is basically garbage at this point so if i plan to use that i need to use the 2 20 wire connectors and map the individual wires .
I have managed to get the s7edge to detect that something is connected. However i then resoldered the pins to try more as it wasnt working. So i need to go back to the beginning to try again. I believe my issue was due to the otg aspect of the usb. Im using an adapter for the phone but i also tried to wire the connector the same way. Ill take some pictures of it later if i can get it working
So not sure if anyone is following this thread but i have made progress.
I have totally butchered the original 40 pin connector and now am tapping into the 40 individual wires that connect the main board to the connector pcb. I can get my s7edge to detect that the usb connector is attached but it keeps telling me that a high power usb device is attached and that it needs an external power source.... so today i busted out the multimeter and i believe i connected one of the usb host vcc connections to the other vcc connections so i separated this. I also believe that the s7edge has some usbotg voltage issues so im going to test it with an old macbook pro with windows to see what it picks it up as. When i get some more time i will try to trace the other wires there might be something else needed
Maybe
Nice job, I'm not particularly knowlegdable in electronics but I remember there is a battery portion in the dock? Maybe it causes some error during otg?