Hi Guys, I have a quick question. I was very excited to setup my front bumper camere using F-Cam app which I figure it out while i was messing with Car-126 menu. However due that my unit has only AV input rca, I am not able to get any view with F-Cam app. As far as I investigate, hardware mod is needed to use F-Cam app with front camera. It seems very hard for me, so I want to go with AVIN.apk.
It sometimes works well, sometimes error logo on middle of screen. Is AVIN.apk buggy? Also it drives me crazy that it cuts my spotify's sound when I open AVIN.apk. Is there any possibility to keep audio running in background and show only video in full screen with AVIN?
My unit is a Witson brand PX5 - Oreo 4GB.
I found a similar thread, but it keeps audio instead of video Are there any apks other than native one to use video input of head unit?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...-development/help-avin-app-auxiliary-t3466211 (not mtce)
I guess I am the only one who wants to use AVIN app only for camera input then.. interesting.
Where did you find the av-in app?
joeyz400 said:
Where did you find the av-in app?
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It is pre-loaded with stock rom already. My unit is android 8.0 px5.
I connect front camera to av-in input of unit, it works but i hate it is taking control of audio.
It is trying to play aux in with video input.
Check all connections on the back. Seriously. You probably have a pin that’s either unlabelled or unused that is really f-cam in. All units should be capable of it, and in a rare case you might have to do some soldering.
Edit: I have a Witson unit as well and it’s the 6th pin on the little 8 pin connector. Pin 3 is GND on mine.
Related
OK, this idea is hypothetical, and I won't be implementing until I need a new phone (these things are way out of my budget).
I was thinking the other day that my HTC Universal would make a great car computer, with its 16GB SDHC memory card, fairly large 3.6" screen, qwerty keyboard (ever tried a stylus on the road?), and dual cameras.
I was thinking that the casing could be removed, and the motherboard mounted on the reverse of a "faceplate" to fill up the space left where my old tape player used to be. The screen could be mounted in a gap in this, and the keyboard (if it's a separate pcb) could be mounted below this on the face plate.
The connections for the application buttons (like backlight, camera and notes) could be re-routed to those kind of buttons you can buy at radioshack (it's **** smith for us Australians though). This would then make it easy to use things such as music and navigation software without playing around on the screen (start menu is hard to use with fingers, especially while driving).
Voice command would be a usefull feature, by allowing you to controll your device (including music and navigation) by a microphone, while keeping both hands on the wheel. This could be used by attatching an ipod video (5th Gen) video output cable, with the video plug replaced with a 3.5mm audio socket, and a microphone attatched. The positive side of this video plug usually connects to the 4th pin of the 3.5mm jack in an ipod, which supplies the video output, however, in iphones AND, luckily, the HTC Universal, this section supplies the microphone input.
The camera ccds (one 1.3MP and one ?VGA?) could MAYBE be extended with shielded (twisted) wiring such as that in LAN cables, so as to mount one in the front and one in the rear bumper bars. These could then be used as usual with the camera application launched by the camera button as reversing and manouvering cameras. It would also be quite usefull to be able to simply press a button to snap the number plate of an ancient diesel smoking up the joint or a raging hoon ripping up in front of you, to report to police (if you like to do that kinda thing).
I'm hard pressed to find a use for the light, although it could possibly be used to aid the visibility of the reversing camera (because reversing lights are never bright enough).
Now if only I was skilled at visual basic and owned an accelerometer enabled device. I'd put one of those G readout things like in the new Nissan GTR. (Sorry, I can't remember where I saw it).
Please post your ideas and suggestions. Also if anybody has any knowlege of data cabling and electronics, would extending a ccd's wires by 1-2 meters be possible?
I looking at getting a PX5 unit and was wondering if any of the DVR apps supported recording the rear camera as well as from the USB dash camera? Would be nice to have both going at once. Also is the video out mirrored only or is it possible to set something else on the output screen.
The front (F-Cam) and rear (Reverse) cameras are both RCA (analog) and are not recordable since the signal is only displayed and not processed logically. The DVR software works ONLY with certain USB cameras, and you could place them anywhere in your vehicle you please. So far, no other DVR software (available in the Play Store, anyway) is compatible with these units. Sorry I can't help with the video mirroring question.
Even though both are analog when you run the non F-Cam (DVR) cam (which frustratingly is not compatible with the f-cam app) I have found it makes the rear cam footage stutter!!. Bit crap when reversing as a stutter can skip a few inches.
I have just installed an Erisen 7591-HA (PX5) into my 2010 Golf Gti and I am getting static and digital processing sounds through my speakers.
If I mute the head unit there is no static or other sounds.
The digital processing noise happens when playing music via usb and Spotify when selecting the next track.
This is my first Android head deck and I am really disappointed.
Sound is going through an Alpine PDX-F6 amp.
I have tried disconnecting the radio plug and removing the head unit from the dash but no change still has static and processing sounds.
Sound issues remain if the engine is off it makes no difference.
Static and digital sounds do not increase with volume, it remains the same no matter what volume it is at unless the head unit is muted.
Good quality RCA and speaker cable was used.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have the same issue with a Belsee unit I installed last week. Do you have a line-level filter in your harness? I have a theory that the line-level filter that's included in mine is unnecessary, as it's coming straight off where the RCA outs would normally be (and those are line level already, right?).
tonyarnold said:
I have the same issue with a Belsee unit I installed last week. Do you have a line-level filter in your harness? I have a theory that the line-level filter that's included in mine is unnecessary, as it's coming straight off where the RCA outs would normally be (and those are line level already, right?).
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No I do not have a line level filter on mine.
I have tried using an RCA GROUND LOOP ISOLATOR but this done nothing.
Below is a link to the sound I am getting from the head unit, you will see it only makes the sounds when volume is not muted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vhT7AavZbg
Same issue on my PX5 KGL unit, not tested with filters or similar...
I read somewhere that the LED color-changing caused interference - and I noticed that you have yours setup that way. Have you tried setting a static color? Also, make sure all of your wiring is clean and try to keep any speaker wires away from any power wires (although that is more applicable to an external app setup).
Can you hear the noise at all while music is actually playing? Obviously, it would be better if it wasn't there are all, but if you can't hear it normally (only hear it when nothing is playing), then I wouldn't sweat it too much. All you can do is make sure that your wiring is clean and maybe try adjusting the LED settings and the "pre-amp" settings under the factory menu (maybe see if reducing the "System" setting under "Voice" helps reduce it). Once you try using things like ground-loop isolaters, etc, then there is a chance that the music fidelity is reduced even more.
jtrosky said:
I read somewhere that the LED color-changing caused interference - and I noticed that you have yours setup that way. Have you tried setting a static color? Also, make sure all of your wiring is clean and try to keep any speaker wires away from any power wires (although that is more applicable to an external app setup).
Can you hear the noise at all while music is actually playing? Obviously, it would be better if it wasn't there are all, but if you can't hear it normally (only hear it when nothing is playing), then I wouldn't sweat it too much. All you can do is make sure that your wiring is clean and maybe try adjusting the LED settings and the "pre-amp" settings under the factory menu (maybe see if reducing the "System" setting under "Voice" helps reduce it). Once you try using things like ground-loop isolaters, etc, then there is a chance that the music fidelity is reduced even more.
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Yeah have tried all the above and nothing changes.
The sound quality is poor also with higher ranges being really scratchy.
I am sure the unit would be fine if not using a higher end amp and just running the speakers off the head unit, I have read a few posts online and on youtube that the RCA output signal can be really poor with certain brands.
I just sent the unit back today for a full refund and will now be buying a brand name such as Alpine, Pioneer etc etc
https://www.hifimax.net/6-95-inch-android-7-1-quad-core-16g-auto-navigation-gps-head-unit-for-bmw-mini-2006-2013.html
Installed that unit with android 8 4gb 32gb option for a 2013 Mini Cooper Countryman S, installation went quite well, fit is great.
I knew that the factory unit was responsible of playing the vehicle chime and indicator sounds, including the blinker turn signal sounds. Before purchasing a wire harness adapter for bmw/mini that makes up for the vehicle chime/indicator sounds, I thought I'd see what solution this head unit had built in.
Unfortunately, the sounds aren't great. The unit has an external speaker that emits the sounds. The speaker is fine, but the only sound that DOES work is the blinke/turning indicator sound which is absolutely terrible. The blinker indicator tone programmed in is a recording of a classic oldschool mechanical electromagnetic relay switch tinging on and off loudly with a *twang*, lol. The length of the sound file is also too long, meaning it takes time for the sound to stop playing after the turning signal has stopped blinking. Door chimes, key/fob dinger doesn't work, vehicle information notification tone doesn't do anything. Something is strange.
The can-bus decoder seems to be built into the unit pulling from the factory wire harness that is pre-wired. I have no idea where these files are stored, if they are on a subsystem rom that's inaccessible or what but it would be very cool to be able to rewrite the audio files to work like factory. I am up to plugging in the factory unit to record all of the factory tones with some high end recording equipment I have to make it right.
Anyone have any leads of where to begin to correct this?
From my reading the CANBUS external box (which has the external speaker attached) is what is generating the sounds so unfortunately they aren't coming from the head unit itself.
millab said:
From my reading the CANBUS external box (which has the external speaker attached) is what is generating the sounds so unfortunately they aren't coming from the head unit itself.
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I don't believe that is correct as the speaker is just a 2-terminal connector plugging into the back of the LCD panel module (which houses the px5 processor module, most of the computational components. )
I have the exact same setup and am hoping for a fix...the new sounds are awful and I really miss the key and light warnings.
Hi, i bought a dasaita px6 max6 for toyota rav4 2019, once the dasaita is connected, the front camera does not work.
I tried to connect the dasaita via fcam rca connector and i tested che cam by the fcam apps but nothing, only show black screen.
Can someone help me?
What does the reseller or installer suggest when contacted for support?
Connect the camera power wire to f cam power in the HU
Have you enabled the front camera in the Factory Settings? It's under the "Other" tab
Have you solved? I have same problem.
I also have the same problem. The front camera was working for a bit but now it doesn't even power up, no leds on it at all. Odd!
hello, i’m having the same issue, anyone managed to make their birds eye view work with this HU?
dragrazer said:
hello, i’m having the same issue, anyone managed to make their birds eye view work with this HU?
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I have 3 cams (front, rear, and dash) on my Dasaita px6 and they all work fine.
Make sure your cam has 12 volts on its power line and a good ground.